Coachella Accessories to Absolutely Nail Your 2019 Festival Weekend

E-Comm: Accessories for Coachella If you’ve ever been to Coachella, you already know that figuring out your festival outfits is a whole thing.
In regular life you can get away with wearing jeans and a tee, but…

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Street Signs: Peaches Looks to New Capital to Support Growth

LOS ANGELES — A car buff and restaurateur have entered the streetwear fray with an interesting proposition, creating an urban label inspired by car culture.
Peaches, which has one foot in South Korea and another in Los Angeles, last year raised about $ 550,000 through angel investors and is in the midst of raising its Series A, expected to close this month and land somewhere in the range of $ 1.5 million to $ 3 million. The capital infusion will be used to open a store on Fairfax Avenue as early as the end of this year at the site of a former gas station, which will be incorporated into the overall design of the space. There will also be a car warehouse in Orange County opening this year that would serve as a hangout of sorts for the core car consumer to come in and check out the cars being built.
The company is currently direct-to-consumer online, but will eventually expand into wholesale with higher-end boutiques.
Pop-ups to test into the South Korean and U.K. markets are also slated for this year.
The slated retail and warehouse openings speak to the duality of the Peaches brand.
“Opening the store on Fairfax, that’s a very street fashion and

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What Is ‘Modest Fashion’ and Why Is It Spreading?

When the topic of “modest clothing” comes up, images of Middle Eastern women in long robes emerge. And while that remains true, the trend of modest clothing is spreading west.
According to data analytics firm Edited, the demand for modest fashion “is expanding outside of the UAE and seeing growth in the western world with a 15 percent increase since 2017.”
In a report written by Charlotte Yau with research and data by Edited market analyst Kayla Marci, the firm noted that “modest clothing” receives about 8,000 Google searches each month in the U.S. “And religion isn’t the only reason women are opting to cover up,” the researchers said. “For some, it’s a personal preference; they find modesty empowering. With the #MeToo movement, women are dressing for themselves than for the male gaze. While the majority of customers are based in the Middle East, demand is growing in the U.S. and U.K.”
Yai and Marci noted that in the U.S. luxury market “there was a 50 percent [year-over-year] increase of long-sleeve blouses with a high neckline” and the midi shape “also makes up 53 percent of total skirt assortment.”
“So who’s wearing modestly?” the researchers said. “Western women in the U.S. make up 36

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The Reracs RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: The Reracs
Main message: With her inaugural show during Tokyo Fashion Week, Naomi Kurahashi displayed just how to present classic pieces on a runway without boring the audience: make sure to have plenty of variety, use beautiful textiles, keep the pace quick, and employ inventive styling choices. The brand lived up to its profile, which says that it’s “backed by quality and practicality,” but proved that it has so much more to offer.
The collection was made up of variations on a pretty basic theme: straight-legged or relaxed, jogger-style trousers paired with V-neck sweaters or just about any kind of outerwear imaginable, all turned out in neutral tones of gray, black, navy, white and beige. But the superior construction and luxurious textiles elevated the collection beyond simple classics, with suiting material showing a drape resembling that of matte jersey, and a black pleather poncho turning more heads than it would have if it had been made from animal skin. The fabrics were so beautiful on their own that there was no need for flashy prints, but occasional flashes of Fair Isle, argyle or checked patterns kept things interesting.
The result: Kurahashi has been designing The Reracs for nearly a decade, but proved

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Berluti Debuts Beach Collection

A BIGGER SPLASH: After Chanel’s Coco Beach collection and Loewe’s collaboration with Paula’s Ibiza, it is men’s wear’s turn to head to the beach with a new seasonal collection from Berluti featuring everything from pool rings to swim shorts.
Accessories combine the brand’s signature patinated Venezia leather with neon accents, while items such as beach towels and deck chairs prominently feature the new logo introduced by creative director Kris Van Assche.
The Berluti Beach capsule line, featuring items ranging from a $ 320 key ring to a $ 5,000 weekend bag, will go on sale at Berluti stores worldwide from April 7. Window displays will feature a summery blue skyline framed with a wall of light-reflecting inflatable cubes.

A pétanque set from the Berluti Beach collection. 
Courtesy

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David Henrie and Wife Maria Cahill Welcome Baby Girl After 3 Miscarriages

David Henrie, Maria CahillDavid Henrie is counting his big blessing.
The Wizards of Waverly Place alum announced the birth of his child, daughter Pia Philomena Francesca Henrie, late Tuesday while reflecting on…

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Beverly Hills Men’s Suiting Veteran Jumps to Avedon

Stuart Newmark, the longtime general manager of the now-shuttered men’s retailer Carroll & Co., has created a new customization concept within existing retailer Avedon in Beverly Hills with the help of senior buyer and partner in the business Nancy Herrera.
Newmark, who served as general manager of Carroll & Co. for more than 30 years, teamed with Avedon owners Reza Shekarchian and Yasmine Farmanara on a lounge concept called Bespoke at Avedon. The deal merges his buying prowess with that of Shekarchian to merchandise the men’s store.
Carroll & Co. began a store closing sale late last year, shuttering its doors for good after the Carroll family received an offer they couldn’t refuse on the building the retailer occupied. Carroll & Co. had long been a mainstay in Beverly Hills, once frequented by high-profile A-listers such as Frank Sinatra, Cary Grant and Jack Lemmon.
Newmark, still seeing a demand for customization and luxury men’s brands, spotted a hole in the market with Carroll & Co.’s closure.
“It’s still viable. We had a huge custom business, which is also a big part of what I’m doing here, along with carrying inventory similar to what we did there,” said Newmark, who was hired in 1989 by

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Everything to You Need to Know About the 2019 CFDA Awards

The Council of Fashion Designers of America has released its list of nominees for the 2019 CFDA Awards, which includes a number of prominent and emerging American designers.
The nominees were announced during a week that also saw the appointment of Tom Ford as the CFDA’s new chairman. Ford will replace Diane von Furstenberg, who served for 13 years.

Tom Ford 
Matt Baron/REX/Shutterstock

Every year, the CFDA Awards honors American fashion in women’s wear, men’s wear and accessories in addition to other fields relevant to the industry. From standout fashion moments — who can forget Rihanna’s barely there Swarovski crystal dress? — to celebrating emerging designers, the CFDA Awards serves as one of the biggest nights in fashion.

Rihanna at the 2014 CFDA Fashion Awards in New York, June 2014. 
BFAnyc.com/REX/Shutterstock

From the full list of nominees to Ford’s new role as chairman, here is everything you need to know about the 2019 CFDA Awards.
When and where are the CFDA Awards?
The awards will be held on June 3 at the Brooklyn Museum in New York.
Who is the host?
The CFDA has yet to announce its host for the awards. This post will be updated when the host is revealed.
Who is nominated for Womenswear, Menswear and Accessory Designers

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Keisukeyoshida RTW Fall 2019

Name: Keisukeyoshida
Main message: What do you get when you mix sharp tailoring and a wide range of textures with subtle bondage influences? Keisuke Yoshida’s latest offering, which was shown on a slick red runway with stairs in the center and models all with bandaged heads. A short suit with an oversize, double-breasted jacket was worn over pleather leggings punctuated with cutouts and buckles, while slinky dresses in headline printed mesh or lamé jersey were gathered all over for a balance of sexy and conservative.
There were structural elements as well, with tails of coats clipped to the backs of collars to create a vague origami effect, and sleeves that were either ballooned and extra long or topped with boned shoulder plates rivaling a football player’s padding. High-wasted pants with rows of rope fastened with toggles were paired with satin blouses trimmed in exaggerated Western-inspired yokes.
The result: Yoshida’s collection was just fantastical enough to find itself at home on the streets of Tokyo, without taking itself too seriously.

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BABE Launches for Networking-minded Women Execs

Rosenthal & Rosenthal Inc., the Accessories Council, and the LHB Group have launched a networking group for women executives, business owners and entrepreneurs, called BABE.
That’s short for “Bad Ass Business Executives.” So far, the group has nearly 100 women business leaders from the food, fashion, accessories, beauty, wellness and financial services sectors. The group is geared to facilitate connections and foster collaborations through gatherings, workshops and other events.
“Women lead only 14 percent of major brands and only 4.8 percent of Fortune 500 companies,” said Cassie Rosenthal, senior vice president of Rosenthal & Rosenthal, a factoring, asset-based lending and purchase order financing firm. “I wanted to actively do something to help move women-run businesses forward. The motivation behind BABE is to create a different kind of collaborative platform that unites women across multiple industries and generations, and gives them access to real resources to help them succeed. BABE is about fostering leadership at a high level.”
The group kicked off on March 13 with 40 female executives at the Beatrice Inn in Manhattan and will host a series of invitation-only events through the summer in New York and Los Angeles, culminating with a panel discussion at the Fashion Institute of Technology.
“In my

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Pete Davidson and Kate Beckinsale Pack on the PDA After Movie Premiere

Kate Beckinsale, Pete Davidson, PDAFor Pete Davidson and Kate Beckinsale, it was a night out sealed with a smooch.
It seems the flames are still burning for the SNL comedian and The Widow actress considering they were…

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Herno’s New Showroom Seen as Key to Increasing U.S. Sales

NEW YORK – Herno is stepping up its efforts to expand in the U.S. market.
The Italian luxury outerwear brand has opened a permanent showroom on Varick Street in Tribeca to better service its existing customers — which include Neiman Marcus, Barneys New York, Nordstrom and Mitchell — and others seeking a sartorial alternative to the ubiquitous Canada Goose and Moncler puffers.
Herno has had a small presence in the U.S. in the past and had been represented by the M5 Showroom, which is located in the same building. But now Claudio Marenzi, president and chief executive officer, has moved a few floors down and opened a cleanly designed space where the brand can present its full offering of men’s, women’s and children’s coats hanging on hooks similar to how they are displayed in its retail stores.
Herno is sharing the floor with Woolrich. Although the two brands have no professional affiliation, Marenzi said they are friendly competitors with a mutual respect. Both firms had been represented by M5 and wanted to have their own space, so it was a practical decision.
Marenzi said that over the past five years the U.S. has grown to represent a larger chunk of Herno’s business. It now

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Investors Said to Be Eyeing Etro

DEAL OR NO DEAL?: A decision on the Roberto Cavalli sale is imminent, a few days after Brunello Cucinelli revealed his succession plans and Furla’s owner and president Giovanna Furlanetto admitted the brand has been courted but, at the same time, firmly denied the company is for sale. Last month, Trussardi was acquired by QuattroR Asset Management Co. against a backdrop that sees Italian companies tackle generational changes and merger and acquisition rumors swirl around other storied brands such as Buccellati. Last year, another family company, Missoni, sold a 41.2 percent stake to FSI Midmarket Growth Equity Fund, and Michael Kors Holdings bought Versace, renaming itself Capri Holdings.
Now Etro is in the mix. According to sources, investors have also been looking at the fashion brand, which last year celebrated its 50th anniversary with an exhibition in Milan named “Generation Paisley” — a reference to the company’s most recognizable pattern. Gerolamo Etro, known as Gimmo, founded the company in 1968 as a textile firm, and, with a forward-thinking initiative decided to invest in ready-to-wear and lifestyle in the Eighties, expanding into collections that ranged from perfumes to suitcases. The exhibit was conceived and put together by the family, which includes siblings

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Malamute RTW Fall 2019

Name: Malamute
Main message: For her second outing during Tokyo Fashion Week, Mari Odaka took inspiration from Tokyo’s changing landscape ahead of the 2020 Olympics, as well as from two films: Andrew Niccol’s 1997 “Gattaca” and Jim Jarmusch’s 2013 “Only Lovers Left Alive.”
Odaka created her own surreal landscape on the runway with large squares of gold Mylar illuminated by fluorescent tube lights, accompanied by a soundtrack of jarring noise. She deftly mixed contrasting textures, showing pleated chiffon trousers together with an unevenly knit scarf that resembled static on a TV, but in red and navy. A shimmering, open knit long skirt resembling a spider web glistening in the morning sun was paired with a cold shoulder black sweater with spots of ivory fringe. There were also pantsuits with relaxed, slit-ankle trousers in black on black floral brocade or pale gray suiting trimmed with tiny ruffles. An oversize grandpa sweater worn as a minidress and a red and black tracksuit with chevron detailing lent a retro vibe.
The result: The designer proved her fledgling brand to be one to watch with a strong collection of relaxed yet elegant pieces in interesting textures.

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Spoofing Fashion, the Ken Walker Way

“If someone tells me I have good taste, I’m insulted. I think of good taste as joining the crowd,” said Kenneth Walker.
An artist-turned-architect, store designer and product developer, Walker is the planning and zoning commissioner in Palm Beach, Fla., where he’s opening an exhibit of his artwork, called “Fashionista,” at the Fritz Gallery, 211 Royal Poinciana Way, Wednesday though April 1. “This is my spoof on good taste,” said Walker. “Fashionista is the right word because this place is so fashion-conscious. Everyone here wears stuff with logos.”
Walker takes a mixed-media approach. In one piece, there’s a giant armoire with its doors swung open and logos from Gucci, Chanel and YSL and other brands dangling off hangers. In another piece, they’re dangling from a clothesline, and then there’s a washing machine on a spin cycle tossing the logos.
In his eclectic career, Walker designed stores operated by Burdines, Galeries Lafayette, Gap Inc., Limited and Saks Fifth Avenue, until he sold the firm in 1985. Walker was part of the Sixties Pop Art crowd hanging out at the Andy Warhol Factory space before shifting to architecture. He considers “Fashionista” a “fun reentry” into the art world, this time getting into the budding Palm

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Refresh Your Home With 25% Off Lulu and Georgia

E-Comm: 25% Off Lulu and Georgia SaleWhy does sprucing up your space never get old?
You may have your entire living room decked out, but there’s always a cool print you can add to the wall or a chic table tray…

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Rei Kawakubo to Be Presented With Isamu Noguchi Award

Rei Kawakubo will receive the 2019 Isamu Noguchi Award from the Noguchi Museum.
The award, which will be presented at the museum’s annual benefit on May 2, is given to individuals who share Isamu Noguchi’s spirit of innovation, global consciousness and commitment to East-West cultural exchange.
Kawakubo, founder of Comme des Garçons and cofounder of Dover Street Market, is also involved in graphic design, advertising and interiors for her businesses, which she considers to be inextricable components of her aesthetic vision. Her work has appeared in several exhibitions, including a solo exhibition at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2017, which was only the second monographic show awarded to a living designer by The Met. This year marks the 50th anniversary of Comme des Garçons.
According to The Museum, “Rei Kawakubo has consistently defied notions not only of beauty, but also of what fashion can be, at once confounding our expectations for clothing — and like Noguchi — challenging the idea that design and art are inherently different endeavors.”
Kawakubo received the Fashion Group International Award in 1986 and the Excellence in Design Award from the Harvard University Graduate School of Design in 2000. In 1993, she was named a Chevalier in the Order of

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Dressedundressed RTW Fall 2019

Name: Dressedundressed
Main message: Takeshi Kitazawa’s spring presentation was part runway show, part performance art, with models emerging on the runway in pairs before engaging in various interactions in front of a simple set: drinking a cup of water, swapping jackets, cutting open a feather pillow, or one presenting the other with a piece of paper on which was written “do something boring.” All this took place to a voiceover soundtrack of men describing their dreams, but the significance of it all was not immediately clear.
Kitazawa sent out tailored or wide-leg trousers with high waists together with tiny cropped tops and jackets. There were shirts with sheer chest panels, bandage tube tops, tailored coats, a leather biker jacket and trench, and suit jackets with key fobs safety pinned to them. Many looks were pantless, instead including only a pair of briefs or a bodysuit. As with most of Dressedundressed’s collections, everything was unisex and in neutral shades of black, white and beige. Half of the models wore black masks with silver eyelets to see through, which together with belts worn on wrists, gave the offering slight BDSM undertones.
The result: The clothes were well cut and there was some interesting proportion play, but the collection

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Keith Haring x Lacoste Apparel and Accessories to Launch March 27

Lacoste is collaborating with the late artist Keith Haring’s artwork for a wide range of apparel and accessories for women, men and children.
Haring, who died in 1990, was known for his Pop Art and graffiti-like work that grew out of the New York City street culture of the Eighties.
Haring’s pop-infused designs will appear across Lacoste’s polo shirts, T-shirt, shirts, sweatshirts, dresses and swimsuits, as well as the lining of bomber jackets, a sneaker, and a reversible tote bag. There are also three watches for children.
Haring’s “Barking Dog” and “Heart” drawings are displayed on a T-shirt or discreetly applied on the collar of a polo shirt or the back of a tennis shoe.

A look from the Keith Haring x Lacoste collection. 

The retail price range for the Keith Haring x Lacoste collection is $ 55 to $ 275. The collaboration is for one season.
The pop-influenced collection will be available from March 27 at lacoste.com and in a selection of Lacoste stores. The partnership was done in collaboration with Artestar, which represents high-profile artists, photographers, designers and creatives.
As reported, Keith Haring has also teamed this season with Terez on a collection that includes leggings, bras, tanks, T-shirts, crewnecks and joggers.

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Our Top 5 Carry-On Suitcases

E-Comm: The Top 5 Carry On Suitcases Traveling is tough, but it makes a world of difference when you have the right luggage handy.
Our go-to, don’t leave home without it piece: a carry-on. It fits right in the overhead…

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Xcommons Partners With Tmall Fashion for Shanghai Fashion Week

LONDON — Xcommons, a Shanghai-based biannual designer support and crossover platform, is teaming with Alibaba’s business-to-consumer channel Tmall to help talented Chinese fashion designers to collaborate with some of the biggest commercial fashion brands in the region.
In the upcoming fourth edition, which runs from March 28 to 31 during Shanghai Fashion Week, Ximon Lee, Andrea Jiapei Li, Haizhen Wang and Minki Cheng will present their fall 2019 collections, as well as capsule collections with Chinese brands Peacebird, Blue Erdos, Blink Gallery and Blooming, respectively.
“We value Xcommons for their high-quality designers and strong executions,” said Ricky Xie, Tmall Fashion’s senior marketing director. This season, the e-commerce platform is launching a “digital trend project” on March 30.
“Through Tmall’s intelligent trend discovery mechanism, companies can catch up with fashion trends faster and more accurately. In this context, Tmall Fashion forecasts the color, product category and crossover trends, and we work with Xcommons and Chinese designers and commercial brands to bring unique products to our consumers during the upcoming Shanghai Fashion Week,” Xie said.
All collaborations will be sold exclusively on Tmall Fashion. Customers can customize the color and pattern of the capsule collections during Shanghai Fashion Week and products will be delivered in two

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Louis Vuitton RTW Fall 2019

Since Nicolas Ghesquière presented his debut collection for Louis Vuitton inside the Louvre’s Cour Carrée in 2014, he has often used the historic museum as a backdrop for spectacular sets with a futuristic bent.
On Tuesday evening, guests arrived at the venue to discover a reproduction of another Paris art institution, the Centre Pompidou, built by architects Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, in a groundbreaking style that caused an uproar when it opened in 1977.
Why the world’s largest luxury brand would build a faithful copy of a structure that is only a mile away in real life was something of a mystery — one that Ghesquière cleared after the show: The collection was inspired by his people-watching at Café Beaubourg, which overlooks the vast square in front of the Pompidou.
The eclectic lineup drew on the tribes he spotted there. The fashion crowd was decked out in speckled tweed dresses that framed the neck with extravagant ruffles; the museum staff, in a blend of sharp tailoring and folkloric patchwork sleeveless coats; the former punks, still marching to a colorful New Wave beat, and even the street performers, with many of the models sporting leather Pierrot caps — although disciples of Marcel Marceau

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Ones to Watch: Phyllis Chan and Suzzie Chung of YanYan

Can sustainable fashion be both polished and quirky?
Hong Kong-based designers and childhood best friends Phyllis Chan and Suzzie Chung are banking on it with their premium knitwear brand YanYan, which utilizes deadstock and leftover yarns from mills and knitwear factories.
The two are aiming to create a youth factor around sustainability, blending grandma elegance with a playful spirit in their designs, and simultaneously touching on hot-button issues facing the fashion industry — including low-waste production, experimental retail strategy, reacting to the pace and competitiveness of fast fashion, and putting out product with more long-term, less trend-driven, potential.
“We thought about what’s a good and interesting way to create product,” Chan said on a call with Chung from Hong Kong, adding: “We didn’t want to put stuff out there that doesn’t contribute anything new. We wanted to make sweaters that were special. We wanted to challenge ourselves and make sweaters that aren’t traditional. The knitwear market is starting to grow. It’s a space for people to have fun and experiment.”
Knitwear was a natural venture for Chan, too, who moved back to Hong Kong after spending nearly a decade at Rag & Bone in New York, most recently as the director of knitwear until

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Pack Like a Celeb for Spring Break

E-Comm: Pack Like a Celeb for Spring BreakGoing on a spring break trip somewhere fun is the highlight of anyone’s time off.
This time of year, chances are you’re going to a warm and tropical destination. While you’re…

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Donna Karan, Mashonda Tifrere’s Art Lead Her Team for ‘King Woman’ Exhibit at Urban Zen

Donna Karan has teamed with Mashonda Tifrere’s nonprofit Art Lead Her to put on an all-women exhibit called “King Woman” at Karan’s store and community space Urban Zen.
Pieces from Reisha Perlmutter, Delphine Diallo, Swoon and 12 other emerging and midcareer artists lined the walls of Urban Zen during a recent visit. Tifrere, dressed all in black just like Karan, pointed out one piece that especially moved her by Perlmutter. It’s a painting of a woman with vitiligo, her face peering above a pool of water in which her body’s submerged. Her hair is wet and slicked back.
“Reisha wanted to portray the woman in the portrait as strong and beautiful in her own skin,” Tifrere said. “On opening night, the woman came, and when she saw her picture hanging on the wall, she started bawling.”
There are individual stories like this one behind most of the pieces included in “King Woman”; Tifrere, who curated the showing, said it was imperative to forge relationships with the artists after selecting them to be part of the exhibition. She added she’d found all of them by looking around on Google and Instagram, then meeting them in person at art fairs.

Delphine Diallo’s “Highness” is on

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Cyclas RTW Fall 2019

A former fashion director for Japanese concept store United Arrows, Keiko Onose has chosen to eschew seasonal inspirations for the collections she creates for Cyclas, the ready-to-wear brand she founded in 2016.
“Gerhard Richter’s paintings are a continuous inspiration for me,” the designer said backstage about the German artist’s “Abstract Paintings” series, which were already a starting point for last season’s collection. Hints of his work were found on a printed coatdress worn over trousers: “It’s a flower print, but I tried to make it look destroyed, like it’s been crashed or hammered,” Onose said.
Other than the printed silhouette, the color palette for the fall 2019 show — the brand’s first on the official calendar — was a muted mix of khaki, light sage, beige and gray, with bright accents delivered by kooky sequined flats. The clashes came in the form of contrasting textures: an ivory pleated organza apron was tied over crisp cotton trousers, a lamé skirt was paired with a knitted top, and chubby faux fur coats were worn over high-waisted corduroy trousers.
It was quite a cerebral collection: minute details, such as hand stitches replacing traditional seams on a voluminous cream top, were only visible up close — on

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William Middleton Strikes Deal With HarperCollins for Karl Lagerfeld Book

Well, that didn’t take long.
William Middleton, a former Paris bureau chief of WWD and W magazine, just signed a book deal with HarperCollins to write “an unconventional biography” of Karl Lagerfeld and how he turned himself into a cultural icon. Lagerfeld died Feb. 19.
Middleton, who met Lagerfeld in 1995, did many stories with him when he worked in Paris and developed a friendship along the way.  Middleton is the author of “Double Vision,” about the powerful art-world family headed by Dominique and John de Menil that was published last spring.
Middleton said he had proposed a book to Lagerfeld about a year ago, and the designer was not interested in delving into his past. “I don’t think the history of Karl is the most interesting part. There are some elements of his past that are interesting. But it’s really what he turned himself into that’s so fascinating. I didn’t want to do a normal biography,” he said.
Immediately after Lagerfeld died, Middleton wrote a three-page proposal and e-mailed his agent, Binky Urban at ICM. “By 9 a.m., she had me on the phone [with HarperCollins vice president and executive editor Sara Nelson] and we had a contract the next week. It all

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Best Swimsuits to Flatter Every Figure

E-Comm: Best Swimsuits to Flatter Every FigureGood news: We made it through the coldest parts of the year and spring is very near.
Also on our radar: Spring Break, which for some is happening now. If you haven’t booked a trip,…

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Tailored Brands Needs Major Overhaul to Improve Results

Tailored Brands managed to reverse year-ago losses in the fourth quarter, but is still struggling with a serious slowdown in sales, one that is going to require a major transformation to improve.
“This is not business as usual and we are not accepting the status quo,” Dinesh Lathi, executive chairman, said on an analysts’ call Wednesday afternoon.
Lathi said the company needs to change — and quickly — to offer more personalized products and services, a better omnichannel experience and fewer promotions in favor of more “brand stories.”
Lahti was highly critical of former management, saying the company’s issues have “roots in a degree of historical under-investment and [inability to keep] pace with an evolving customer.”
He said the company does “some things well, but we have considerable work to do in order to be considered great. There are examples where we have relied on [our market position] instead of investing to build on our leading position in the category.”
Lahti slipped into the top slot at the company last year upon the retirement of former chief executive officer Doug Ewert. Although a ceo search is ongoing, sources expect Lahti will eventually be named to the position.
In the past six months, Lahti said he has

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Gieves & Hawkes Removes Michael Jackson Jackets From Display

BAD MOVE: Child abuse allegations against the late pop star Michael Jackson have been hitting fashion hard, with Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes among the brands to get caught up in the controversy.
The British tailor has removed from its display a replica of the military jacket that Michael Jackson wore on the “Bad” tour in 1988. Bad was the first solo concert tour by Jackson, spanning 16 months from 1987.
Gieves, which famously sits at No. 1 Savile Row and is one of the oldest tailoring companies in the world, said: “In light of the disturbing allegations made in the documentary, the replica garment was removed from the premises several weeks ago.” Child sex abuse allegations against the late pop star resurfaced in the HBO “Leaving Neverland” documentary.
Earlier this week, Louis Vuitton announced it would not produce any item “that directly features Michael Jackson elements.” The brand’s fall 2019 men’s wear collection drew inspiration from the “Thriller” singer’s pop-culture legacy.
Gieves & Hawkes, one of the Fung family’s brands owned through Trinity group, made the original jacket, with its intricate golden military frogging and embroidery, for the tour that included 123 concerts across 15 countries.
There were dazzling fashion moments with costumes

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Maticevski RTW Fall 2019

Toni Maticevski upped the focus on tech fabrics, “And seeing how they translate into things that are wearable.”
The attitude stayed dressy, though. Gathered into architectural folds, a gold and silver foil jersey used on gowns was surprisingly light and soft, with foil effects also surfacing on a black wool-cashmere coat. A capsule of black-and-white chiffon evening pieces peppered with high-tech flocking in animal-meets-floral motifs were striking.
The designer broke the mood with a romantic section of dresses, including a long ivory tulle gown with a pleated top and short pale pink skirt embroidered in organic strips of metallics and sequins which lent an artisanal charm.
The pièce de résistance in the handiwork intensive collection was a floor-sweeping pastel gown covered in circular tea-stained ruffles.

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Ssense Launches Marine Serre Men’s Line

Ssense has snagged the exclusive for the launch of the Marine Serre’s first men’s designs.
The 22-piece collection includes fleece jackets, dégradé tracksuits, bike shorts, T-shirts and accessories that are rich in Nineties nostalgia.
The collection retails from $ 95 for a whistle-festooned lariat to $ 2,270 for a floral-print blanket coat.
Ssense is a luxury retailer based in Montreal that has a strong following with men and women under the age of 34.
Serre, a Parisian-based designer, has been a winner of the LVMH Prize, and made her mark with crescent-moon print bodysuits and dresses made from upcycled silk scarves for women. Her clothes blend futuristic, athletic and couture references.

She had interned at Maison Margiela and quit her job in the studio of Balenciaga in September 2017 to focus on her own label. This is her first men’s wear capsule.

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Kourtney Kardashian Strips Down to Her Birthday Suit to Announce Mystery Brand ”Poosh”

Kourtney Kardashian, amfAR Gala New York 2019Kourtney Kardashian is adding something extra special to her ever-growing resumé.
The reality TV personality gave fans a tease of her latest project, titled Poosh, wearing nothing…

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Tata Accessories Expanding Capacity by 30 Percent

Tata Accessories Globales, the world’s largest men’s and women’s belt factory and an affiliate of Randa Accessories, is expanding its facility by nearly one-third and beefing up its workforce. The move is intended to “meet the growing demand for accessories’ top-performing category,” the company said.
As part of the expansion, Tata has invested in new state-of-the-art equipment and technologies to improve the quality of the product, speed up production and reduce costs.
“Due to our success over the last few years, we are increasing our facility footprint by 30 percent, nearly doubling our workforce, and exploding our annual production capacity to 18 million belts,” said Rodrigo Toledo, president of Tata. The company will now employ more than 1,000 people.
Because of its location in Guatemala, Tata also provides an option for North American brands and retailers seeking the benefits of nearshoring. Manufacturing in that country takes advantage of the Central America Free Trade Agreement, which does not levy duty or tariffs on products imported into the U.S. It also cuts shipping time to one week from the four or more required to import product from Asia.
“Tata provides our retail and brand partners with a competitive advantage,” said Judy Person, executive vice president and

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Sephora Ends Partnership With Influencer Olivia Jade

Influencer Olivia Jade has lost her partnership with Sephora.
The 19-year-old YouTuber, who is the daughter of fashion designer Mossimo Giannulli and “Full House” actress Lori Loughlin, released a collaboration, a $ 28 highlighter and bronzer palette, with Sephora Collection at the end of last year. As of Thursday afternoon, the retailer had pulled the palette from its web site.
In a statement released from Sephora, the retailer said: “After careful review of recent developments, we have made the decision to end the Sephora Collection partnership with Olivia Jade, effective immediately.”

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the olivia jade x sephora collection palette has officially launched! sooo excited for you to get your hands on these highlighters… they are unreal. link in my bio to purchase + new video up ft. the launch party and meet up <3 #ad #sephoracollection #beautyuncomplicated
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Sephora’s decision to discontinue the collaboration comes after news hit on Tuesday that her parents were part of the nation’s biggest college admissions fraud scandal, where nearly 40 adults were charged for taking illegal measures to get their children admitted to elite colleges. Jade — whose

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Y’s RTW Fall 2019

One of the key themes from the Black line was transparency, with signature gabardine coats flipped inside out to put their inner workings on display, the seams exposed, as well as reversible pieces, with a split-personality coat with beige linen on one side, black silk on the other.
A uniform storyline included coats mixing houndstooth with a monochrome Y’s tartan, lovely black blazers with cutouts of jewel-tone motifs lifted from Persian carpets used to evoke medals, and a series of pinstripe coats with the stripes bleached into the fabric, as well as bleached color-blocking effects.
The Pink line offered a capsule of textured knits, including a seamless cashmere sweater; feminized spins on men’s shirting fabrics, applying details like lace and ruffles to gingham and striped styles, as well as a capsule of sweatshirts playing on the band T-shirt graphics used for Prince and the Revolution’s Purple Rain Tour in the mid-Eighties.

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Giorgio Armani to Stage First Resort Runway Show in Tokyo

MILAN — Giorgio Armani is the latest designer to take his resort collection on the road.
Armani is staging his first runway event for a pre-collection on May 24 in Tokyo. The venue and other particulars could not immediately be learned.
The show is to coincide with the reopening of the Giorgio Armani Tokyo flagship situated in the Ginza shopping district. The designer plans to fete the reopening the same night of the show with a cocktail event.
The store was first unveiled in 2007 inside the Armani/Ginza Tower, which features the Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani and Armani Casa collections, along with the brand’s then-first spa, an Italian restaurant and a Privé bar.
Armani last hosted a runway show in Tokyo in 2007 as part of his One Night Only series of events, parading his spring 2008 Giorgio and Emporio Armani collections. Last year the format was slated to take place in Shanghai on May 25, but was postponed for technical and logistic reasons.
Last November, Valentino staged a runway show combining for the first time its men’s and women’s pre-fall collections in Tokyo, and a few days later Dior Men showcased its first men’s pre-fall runway show with a collection designed by Kim Jones

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Best Moisturizers for Dry Skin–Ranked

E-Comm: Best Moisturizers for Dry SkinEvery now and then, dry skin happens to us all.
The worst thing you can do is nothing at all, and the best thing is to invest in a good moisturizer. But quality matters. You can’t…

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Hanes Celebrating Michael Jordan With Trading Card Promotion

Hanes is celebrating the 30th anniversary of its partnership with Michael Jordan by putting special trading cards into 800,000 packages of its Comfort Flex Fit boxer briefs.
And 10 of those packs will actually be signed by the basketball legend.
Jordan and Hanes first teamed up in 1989 when the athlete scored his 10,000th point and hit “The Shot” at the buzzer in game five of the NBA playoffs against the Cleveland Cavaliers to give his Chicago Bulls the win.
“Michael has always had his pick of brands to endorse, and we are incredibly honored that he has chosen to stay with ours for the past three decades,” said Sidney Falken, chief branding officer of Hanesbrands. “This is one of the longest-running and most successful partnerships of its type to date — a powerful statement about Michael and Hanes.”
A total of 170 different Fleer trading cards have been produced by The Upper Deck Company, each with a photo of Jordan from one of his Hanes advertisements. They are packaged in five-card packs.
“Through the years, we’ve certainly benefited from Michael’s enduring popularity with such a wide audience,” Falken added. “MJ continues to be one of the most recognizable people in the world, and we’re thrilled

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Jill Stuart Celebrates Debut of Diffusion Collection

Retailers, media and influencers gathered Tuesday night at Primo’s in New York to celebrate the introduction of Jill Jill Stuart, a diffusion ready-to-wear line that launched for spring.
Jill Jill Stuart features Stuart’s feminine aesthetic in dresses and separates at a more accessible price point. The collection’s sweet spot is between $ 269 and $ 369, and it is being sold at retailers such as Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Shopbop and Nordstrom.
Jill Stuart’s main collection, which is priced 50 percent higher, has completely different distribution and is sold at specialty boutiques.
Jill Jill Stuart, which covers many of the sportswear categories, hopes to eventually expand into knits and denim. The spring collection features Stuart’s signature floral prints, flowy feminine separates, flirty eyelets and a variety of polka dot prints.

Some looks from Jill Jill Stuart. 
Courtesy Shot

“This ready-to-wear line was created because I wanted to bring my signature looks and style to a wider audience. With the urging and encouragement from retailers, it seemed to be the right time,” said Jill Stuart. “Also, we are excited to partner with Afterpay as we strive to attract a broader audience and cater to Millennials’ purchasing patterns and needs.” Afterpay allows customers to buy right away and pay in installments.

A

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Galvan RTW Fall 2019

“It’s kind of funny when you think about seasons anymore because what’s winter for someone is summer for another,” described Galvan’s Katherine Holmgren. ”There’s always so much travel in-between different locations and climates and temperatures.” Having an international customer who shops in varying climates, the team from Galvan looked to their creative director, Sola Harrison’s, recent trip to Bali to infuse a wintery jungle theme into their fall lineup. Lush green leafy hues ran throughout — simply sophisticated in floor-length slips or more daring in an emerald green sequined blazer with fringed details. Acid green also made an appearance in scuba-like materials, like a bustier minidress, mixing the surfer, beachy vibes and jungle landscapes of Ubud and Uluwatu.
“We’re always trying to make eveningwear — glamorous, yes — but with a dash of fun and youth…and a cool factor that’s often missing,” Holmgren described. The brand continues to do so — fall meant updated sequined — as well as velvet devore-offerings (in a great leafy print). A special edition hand-placed tiger printed velvet devoré shirtdress and slinky “Bali” scarf printed — found during Harrison’s travels — gowns made for great additions to round out the collection of multiple-climate appropriate attire.

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Indochino Offering Free Pants to Goldman Sachs Employees

Men’s wear retailer Indochino is doing its part to help the guys from Goldman Sachs navigate their new, less formal way of dressing.
Last week, the investment banking firm made headlines when it said it was shifting to “a firmwide flexible dress code” to reflect the “more casual environment.”
Indochino jumped at the opportunity and is offering free custom chinos to any Goldman Sachs executives based in New York or New Jersey. The men need only visit one of the company’s showrooms in the tristate area — Madison Avenue, Financial District, SoHo, Brooklyn and Short Hills, N.J. — and show proof of employment and a photo ID to take advantage of the offer. From there, they will get measured, select chino color and customizations. Orders must be placed by Friday, April 26.
“Goldman Sachs is the epitome of the financial industry and its newly relaxed dress code is a reflection of more relaxed workplace standards and a shift toward personal choice and increased flexibility,” said Drew Green, president and chief executive officer of Indochino. “Starting with a great-fitting, casual pair of chinos, we’re inviting executives to refresh their wardrobes with Indochino so that they can be comfortable and confident in any situation.”

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Last-Minute St. Patrick’s Day Party Favors

E-Comm: Last-Minute St. Patrick's Day Party Favors We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: We’re big fans of St. Patrick’s Day.
Can you blame us? It’s a delightfully tacky excuse to get together with your best…

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Bestseller Opens Permanent U.S. Showroom in SoHo

Bestseller, the Danish apparel conglomerate behind the Selected Homme, Jack & Jones, Vero Moda and Only brands, has opened its first permanent showroom in the U.S. in SoHo. The company had previously operated a temporary space in Midtown.
The 7,500-square-foot space at 96 Spring Street was designed by architecture firm Loda Design, and features a floor-through, loft-like design that blends the original architecture of the building with a design inspired from the company’s headquarters in Aarhus, Denmark. Each brand is given its own distinct space within the showroom.
Bestseller is a family-owned apparel and accessories company founded by Troels Holch Povlsen in 1975. It produces 20 brands that are sold in some 15,000 retailers in 70 markets and operates 3,000 branded stores across the globe.
The opening of the New York showroom is part of a larger strategy to expand the company’s reach in North America.
According to Brian Edgar, president of Bestseller North America, the new showroom “showcases our brands’ DNA more accurately, which helps elevate our presence in the marketplace. The space is much larger than our previous one allowing us to really show what each Bestseller brand can offer.”

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Raquell Lord Balenciaga to Walk the Runway in Ralph Rucci at ‘L’Hommage’ Event

IT TAKES A VILLAGE: Ralph Rucci is lending his design talents to create pieces for a spring benefit for the LGBTQ communities.
The designer is creating gowns for legends of the ballroom community and fashion runways who will join in a show for “L’Hommage…A Night of Celebration, Unity and Love” on May 11 at Judson Memorial Church in New York.
The cocktail party will benefit FIERCE, which stands for Fabulous Independent Educated Radicals for Community Empowerment, a New York-based organization that mentors LGBTQ individuals. With members in the 10- to 21-year-old age range, the group helps them line up internships and take part in leadership development programs. In New York City, the group organizes grassroots campaigns to combat police harassment and violence and increased access to safe public space for LGBTQ youth.
Aware of the interest in the Eighties-inspired FX show “Pose,” which features the largest LGBTQ recurring cast ever assembled, and eager to help the LGBTQ community, event coordinator Anthony Stropoli said an activist friend directed him and Rucci to FIERCE. The event is a tribute of sorts to the ball culture world.
“Raquell Lord Balenciaga” will be hitting the catwalk in New York for the first time in more than 10 years.

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Antonio Berardi RTW Fall 2019

While he showcased his latest fall collection to buyers according to the traditional schedule, Antonio Berardi skipped any classic shows or presentations during fashion week this season. His beautiful collection was actually revealed to journalists with one-on-one appointments in his Milan showroom and via a range of images portraying fashion icon Catherine Baba.
“The idea that the collection starts in my world is given over to someone else, who makes it fit in her world, and the eventually of it becoming part of someone else’s universe on a totally different level is perhaps the most exciting thing of all,” Berardi said on Baba’s interpretation of her clothes.
Her bold personality actually exalted the already distinctive spirit of the collection — which, designed to complement the pre-fall range, was more focused on cocktail and evening attire.
Continuing to offer his own take on his inspiration from the year 1968 — already the theme of pre-fall — Berardi played with the sharp and the precise mixed with the soft and bohemian. A white minidress with scalloped edges and flared sleeves exuded the same feminine allure as another short dress, worked in overblown checks, showing exaggerated ruffles.
Lengths got longer in a hot pink gown revealing precise vertical

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Jeans on the NYSE Floor?

The uber-trend toward casualization has extended to almost every American institution, making jeans of one sort or another welcome almost anywhere — from fancy restaurants to high-powered business meetings. Even Goldman Sachs recently moved to a “flexible dress code.”
The austere New York Stock Exchange, though, is one of the last holdouts with a strict no-jeans policy for its trading floor.
That policy will be tested severely when Levi, Strauss & Co. goes public, which could happen as soon as next week.
The IPO — Levi’s second — is expected to price the company’s 36.7 million Class A shares being offered at $ 14 to $ 16 apiece, valuing the firm at up to $ 6.17 billion. Levi’s is set to raise $ 151 million, while selling shareholders would raise $ 435 million.
Most of the selling shareholders are part of the Haas family, descendants of the founder Levi Strauss. At $ 16 a share, Mimi Haas — widow of former chief executive officer Peter E. Haas Sr. — has a stake valued at just over $ 1 billion. She plans to sell six million shares in the offering and will retain 56.9 million shares.
The Haas family will continue to control the company by virtue of its Class B shares, which

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Shop St. Patrick’s Day Graphic Tees Here

E-Comm: St. Patrick's DaySt. Patrick’s Day is one of those Hallmark holidays that we can really get behind.
For some reason, there’s always so much excitement around it and everyone you know is suddenly…

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Quarterback Jared Goff Named Banana Republic Ambassador

Banana Republic has named Jared Goff, quarterback for the Los Angeles Rams, as its latest brand ambassador.
The two-time NFL Pro Bowl selection and the fastest number-one overall draft pick in the history of the League to advance to the Super Bowl will help shine a light on the company’s performance-driven men’s collections by appearing in advertising campaigns, making public appearances and promoting the relationship on social media and through activations.
He will also serve on Banana Republic Men’s Style Council, a group of stylish professional athletes created by the company in 2017 to highlight its performance apparel. Others in that group include quarterback Matt Ryan, pro baseball shortstop Didi Gregorius, pro basketball guard C.J. McCollum and pro-basketball power forward Kevin Love.
“Banana Republic is a premiere destination for modern men’s wear designed for a life with no boundaries,” said Banana Republic’s chief marketing officer Mary Alderete. “Jared has become a fan of our pieces over the past year, so making this official was a natural next step. We’re excited to welcome him to the BR family and add his confident sense of style to our men’s playbook.”
The first campaign creative featuring Goff will launch in the summer, timed to coincide with key

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Waris Dirie Partners With Coco de Mer on Campaign to End Female Genital Mutilation

THE GOOD FIGHT: Activist, author and model Waris Dirie is stepping in front of the lens after a 20-year hiatus from modeling, collaborating with the lingerie brand Coco de Mer to spread awareness about female genital mutilation.
Dirie herself is a victim of FGM and has been working for 25 years to abolish the practice, which is illegal in Western nations including Britain, but still practiced in parts of Africa, the Middle East and Asia. In 2002, Dirie founded the Desert Flower Foundation to educate and provide support to women affected by FGM. As a result of her advocacy, FGM rates in Africa have gone from 70 percent to 7 percent, according to Dirie.
In the campaign videos, Dirie stands looking at the camera with a flower in her hand, a symbol of the female genitalia and of her foundation. In the video, she’s eventually joined by women, children and men. “It’s not just a women’s fight, it’s a fight for everyone,” said Lucy Litwak, ceo of Coco de Mer.
The campaign images, shot by Rankin, see the model wearing pieces from Coco De Mer’s Icons collection.
“As a brand Coco de Mer always stood for female empowerment and the importance of female pleasure

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Yves Salomon RTW Fall 2019

A Seventies-style faun-colored intarsia coat figured among the rich range of shearlings, as the brand continues to steer the focus away from fur, also mixing textures on coats, contrasting shaved and fluffy surfaces and playing with prints, including a leopard motif, to broaden the category’s appeal.
Brought in to design the second edition of the brand’s Pieces capsule of six upcycled furs was André Walker who got creative with mink scraps. Items included a black mink jumpsuit masquerading as corduroy, a cream shirt in sheared mink, and a showstopper fringed sheared-mink intarsia dress with a face print based on one of Walker’s artworks. Sporting labels signed by Walker, the pieces will be produced in limited-edition series.

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Man Arrested for Stealing More Than $50,000 in Goat Shoes

Consumers are still craving fashion sneakers.
Just ask Goat, the resell platform for high-fashion sneakers that recently got a $ 100 million investment from Foot Locker.
In fact, the demand is so high that some people have turned to unorthodox methods of acquiring them.
On Sunday, police arrested a man for allegedly breaking in to Goat’s Secaucus, N.J., warehouse and trying to steal numerous pairs of fashionable footwear. According to police reports, Daqwaun Ralls was caught red-handed in the building’s stairwell with “burglar tools.”
But this wasn’t the first time Goat’s warehouse has been broken into.
Last October, the property was burglarized and 16 pairs of sneakers worth more than $ 6,000 went missing. The following month, 31 pairs of sneakers — worth more than $ 23,000 — vanished after the warehouse was robbed. Then in January, Goat’s warehouse was hit again. This time an additional $ 23,000 in sneakers were taken.
During the most recent incident, police said they found Ralls’ car running nearby. Video surveillance captured the Bronx resident’s vehicle on tape during the prior break-ins. 
“Additionally, evidence gathered from the previous burglaries and evidence gathered as a result of Daqwaun Ralls’ arrest on March 10, 2019, confirmed that he had burglarized Goat on

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Chance the Rapper Marries Kirsten Corley: Inside Their Star-Studded Wedding

Kirsten Corley, Chance The RapperChance the Rapper is somewhere in paradise because the star just got married!
The 25-year-old Grammy winner tied the knot with his childhood crush and mother of his child, Kirsten Corley,…

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The Flower Company Behind Marc Jacobs’ ‘Fallen-Angel Beauty’

“Fallen-angel kind of beauty” is how Marc Jacobs referenced the feathered and heavy petal looks akin to black swans in his fall 2019 ready-to-wear collection, which showed at Park Avenue Armory in February during New York Fashion Week.
For the latest fall collection, Jacobs tapped again into his super-considered, “attentive” design process with each look “an exaggeration of our view of who each of the women is,” Jacobs said during a preview, and as previously reported in WWD.
And this attentiveness behind the silk organza feathers and petals was aided by the handwork of the “last-surviving” artificial flower factory in New York’s Garment District: M&S Schmalberg.
Hanging in the workroom, amongst an explosion of color and boxes of flowers stacked ceiling high, was a silk organza remnant attaching recognition to the exact dress brooding across the lacquered black runway at Marc Jacobs.
The airy silken adornments appeared in nearly 10 looks from Jacobs’ fall collection, either compiling a full look as in the full trapeze-style black-and-white petal dress (to which M&S Schmalberg said its order numbered 5,500 petals). For this particular dress, the fabric was supplied by the design team at Marc Jacobs.

M&S Schmalberg feathers created for a look in Marc Jacobs’ fall 2019

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Karim Adduchi RTW Fall 2019

Amsterdam-based Moroccan designer Karim Adduchi’s mission in Paris was to present a line of more commercial ready-to-wear looks, ranging from jacquard coats in a woodland print to a tailored blazer with details including 3-D buttons with a design inspired by berbère culture and belt loops at the waist.
But his couture pieces grabbed all the attention, especially the twists on traditional Moroccan garb, like a top and skirt honed from finishings sourced from every city that the designer has visited in his homeland, including colored tassels in earthy hues that formed the skirt.
Also drawing the eye was a red silk scarf dress and a long gown with a split made from an artisanal striped wool with raw seams.

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Franco-Turkish Label Dice Kayek Opens First Store

CHIC BOUTIQUE: Dice Kayek is opening its first store.
Franco-Turkish designer Ece Ege, who created the label with her sister Ayse in 1992, has chosen the Parisian Left Bank for the brand’s first boutique, which will open on the Rue Saint Benoit at the end of June, to coincide with Paris couture week.
Taking over a former art gallery, the 1,600-square-foot space designed by Belgian architect Bernard Dubois will combine a boutique and a boudoir on the lower level, where clients will be able to discover the brand’s couture creations while sipping traditional Turkish coffee.
Dice Kayek stopped being part of the official couture show schedule in spring 2016, but still designs couture pieces for private clients. The brand now shows its ready-to-wear line during Paris Fashion Week in the form of presentations.
“Retail was never our priority,” Ege told WWD. “But since opening our shop-in-shop at the Galeries Lafayette a couple of years ago, there has been a real demand from customers for our own brick-and-mortar store. We wanted to create a space where the client feels looked after, pampered even. In this day and age, a boutique needs to be about exclusivity and one-to-one treatment.”
The chosen space had actually been tried and

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Slippers You Can Actually Wear Outside

E-Comm: Slippers That Are Basically ShoesSlippers are a godsend, aren’t they?
We have a few pairs, and there’s no such thing as too many. But the problem is that most of them can’t really go outside. We’re not…

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Hermès Takes Craftsmanship Showcase to Rome

MILAN — After more than 43 stops across the world, Hermès has taken its traveling exhibition of craftsmanship to the Museum of the Ara Pacis in Rome.
Running through March 16, the “Hermès at Work” showcase, dubbed “Hermès Dietro Le Quinte [Behind the Scenes]” in Italy, continues to support the luxury house’s ongoing effort to introduce its artisans to the public. Hermès counts more than 4,500 craftspeople out of a total of 13,700 employees worldwide.
Spread over 10,764 square feet, the presentation in Rome will allow visitors to meet and interact with artisans from 10 different disciplines while they work, delving into how the luxury company produces its signature leather handbags, gloves and saddles, among others.
Master craftsmen will also do live demonstrations of the silk engraving and silk rolling that distinguishes the famed Hermès silk scarf, as well as of gem setting, watchmaking and hand-painting of the brand’s porcelain.

“Hermès Dietro Le Quinte” in Rome. 
Courtesy Photo

In addition, thanks to virtual reality, visitors will be able to take in a 360-degree film about the master glassmakers and cutters of the Saint-Louis crystal works, founded in 1586 and acquired by Hermès in 1989.
Roundtable discussions and conferences about craftsmanship, innovation and the transmission of know-how will be

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Y’s RTW Fall 2019

One of the key themes from the Black line was transparency, with signature gabardine coats flipped inside out to put their inner workings on display, the seams exposed, as well as reversible pieces, with a split-personality coat with beige linen on one side, black silk on the other.
A uniform storyline included coats mixing houndstooth with a monochrome Y’s tartan, lovely black blazers with cutouts of jewel-tone motifs lifted from Persian carpets used to evoke medals, and a series of pinstripe coats with the stripes bleached into the fabric, as well as bleached color-blocking effects.
The Pink line offered a capsule of textured knits, including a seamless cashmere sweater; feminized spins on men’s shirting fabrics, applying details like lace and ruffles to gingham and striped styles, as well as a capsule of sweatshirts playing on the band T-shirt graphics used for Prince and the Revolution’s Purple Rain Tour in the mid-Eighties.

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Karlie Kloss and New ‘Project Runway’ Judges on the Show’s Kinder, Gentler Reboot

When “Project Runway” launched in 2004, it pulled back the curtain on the fashion industry, made Michael Kors a household name, and elevated the role of designer into the pop culture pantheon. Running for 16 seasons with guest judges including Kim Kardashian, Victoria Beckham, Sarah Jessica Parker and Ciara, the show introduced such memorable moments as the Gristedes challenge and the Thunder From Down Under challenge. And it gave millions of wannabes dreams of making it like Christian Siriano, the biggest success story among the winners.
After a nearly two-year hiatus, the show returns on March 14 to Bravo for its 17th season, reimagined for now. New host, model Karlie Kloss, who is also executive producer, is joined by a new mentor (Siriano) in the Tim Gunn role, and three regular judges — Elle magazine editor in chief Nina Garcia, a veteran of the show’s earlier iteration; former Teen Vogue editor Elaine Welteroth, and designer Brandon Maxwell.
The 17 designers competing have a range of experience, and hail from all over the world, including one contestant who is a Syrian refugee, and others who are from India and Samoa. The show will put a new emphasis on inclusion, featuring models of all races

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Books by Boss Ladies We Love

E-Comm: Boss Books for Boss LadiesWe love a good inspiring tale as much as the next, but since it’s International Women’s Day it feels particularly relevant.
Who doesn’t want to be told to live their best by…

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Jos. A. Bank Reopens New York Flagship With Updated Design

NEW YORK — Jos. A. Bank has taken the wraps off a store design that is intended to be a more visible statement of its brand positioning.
The 13,800-square-foot flagship on Madison Avenue and 46th Street had been closed since June for the revamp and had a soft reopening on Tuesday. The official opening event is on March 19.
“We wanted our flagship in New York to represent a unique space as iconic as Madison Avenue,” said Mary Beth Blake, brand president for the Jos. A. Bank division of Tailored Brands Inc. The retailer was founded in 1905 in Baltimore and purchased by Tailored Brands, the former Men’s Wearhouse, in 2014.
The Madison Avenue store opened in 1994 and had not undergone a revamp for 25 years, Blake said.
The first hint that something has changed is seen on the awnings, which tout “the new tradition” that will be found inside. Upon entering, the customer finds 17-foot-high ceilings, custom furniture and fixtures in rich brown woods, Corian stone tops, brushed copper hardware and antique mirrors. Features intended to speak to the brand’s heritage include metallic wall coverings and architectural ornaments as well as a map of Baltimore on the walls of the staircase.
The main

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Kimora Lee Simmons Buys Baby Phat, Plans for Relaunch

Kimora Lee Simmons Leissner has gotten her baby back.
The designer, former model and entrepreneur celebrated International Women’s Day on Friday by revealing that she had personally purchased the once red-hot streetwear brand Baby Phat and will relaunch the label later this year.
She declined to disclose the purchase price or the company from which it was purchased, only saying: “We had to hunt around to find it.”
Leissner was the creator of the women’s-skewed streetwear brand 20 years ago as an extension of the Phat Farm men’s label under her then-husband Russell Simmons’ Phat Fashions company.
Leissner felt at the time that women streetwear fans should have a vehicle and created Baby Phat to fit that bill. She served as its creative director from 2000 to 2010 and later added the president’s title as well.
In its heyday in the early Aughts, Baby Phat was one of Phat Fashions’ most profitable brands with a wide variety of product categories and sales in excess of $ 1 billion. It was worn by major celebrities and hosted elaborate fashion shows.
When Phat Fashion was sold to Kellwood in 2004, Leissner continued to serve as creative director of Baby Phat. A fragrance was launched with Coty in 2005 and

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Capucci RTW Fall 2019

Having cycled through a number of formats and creative directors in the last few years, Capucci is banking on an injection of youth to restore the brand to the glory days of its founder, Roberto Capucci.
The label’s owner, businesswoman and art patron, Paola Santarelli, has appointed her daughter, Vittoria Bonifati, as artistic coordinator, with Valeria Giampietro as art director. They, in turn, have drafted Luisa Orsini and Antonine Peduzzi, the “It” girls behind the handbag label TL-180, to refresh the brand.
Staging a presentation in Paris for the first time, Capucci unveiled a capsule collection based on the more wearable portions of its archive. The couturier, now 88, has been a friend of the Santarellis for decades.
“He was very close with my grandmother and my mother. My mom’s wedding dress was designed by him, and also my grandmother had a lot of clothes designed by him, so I’ve known him for quite a bit, and he comes still to the atelier. He has some clients and makes haute couture,” Bonifati said.
A tunic top and cropped flared pants featured subtle black-and-white Op Art stripes that were stitched together from dozens of fine strips of fabric. A collarless coat with a scalloped edge

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19 Calvin Klein Runway Looks Worth Taking a Look Back At

It’s the end of an era at Calvin Klein.
The American fashion brand announced Wednesday it will not continue its traditional collection business, meaning Calvin Klein will no longer be a fixture on the fashion week runway. The news comes after the brand shuttered its 205W39NYC label in January, following the departure of its chief creative officer, Raf Simons, the prior month.
Starting his namesake label in 1968 as a coat shop, Calvin Klein grew his brand quickly, adding sportswear and lingerie. In 1973, Klein received the Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award for a 74-piece women’s wear collection, becoming known for his youthful and classic American style.

Calvin Klein fall 1973 ready-to-wear collection. 
Nick Machalaba/Penske Media/REX/Shutterstock

While the proliferation of Klein’s underwear and jeans businesses — and legendary ad campaigns featuring the likes of Mark Wahlberg, Kate Moss and Brooke Shields — are a significant marker in the designer’s legacy, his designs on the runway were equally impactful. Most notably, Klein popularized the slipdress, which was routinely modeled by Moss on the runway.

The finale at the Calvin Klein spring 1998 ready-to-wear runway. 
Todd Plitt/AP/REX/Shutterstock

When the brand was acquired by PVH Corp. and Klein resigned from his position in 2003, designer Francisco Costa was brought on as

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Boss Looks for the Office

E-Comm: Boss Looks for the OfficeInternational Women’s Day is tomorrow, and it’s got us in the mood to succeed.
We’re not saying you’re not pumped to kill it at work on the regular, but sometimes you…

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17 Unforgettable Calvin Klein Red Carpet Looks

With news hitting Wednesday that Calvin Klein is shuttering its collections business, it was also announced the brand is ceasing its “by appointment” business, too, meaning Calvin Klein will no longer be a fixture on the red carpet.
The news comes after the brand decided to shutter its 205W39NYC business in January following the departure of chief creative officer, Raf Simons, the prior month.
Under the design leadership of Francisco Costa and Simons, Calvin Klein produced a number of standout red carpet looks during awards season, showing off the brand’s signature minimalist aesthetic on the likes of Lupita Nyong’o, Nicole Kidman, Lady Gaga and more.
In 2005, supermodel Elle Macpherson made headlines in a bright yellow floor-length Calvin Klein dress, which left its mark on the cultural lexicon due to the casual flip-flops she paired with ballgown.

Elle Macpherson wearing Calvin Klein at the Met Gala in 2005. 
Charles Sykes/REX/Shutterstock

Nyong’o, who has appeared in an ad campaign for the brand’s Women fragrance, has routinely worn Calvin Klein dresses on the red carpet. Most notably, the actress wore a custom white Calvin Klein dress decorated with 6,000 pearls to the Academy Awards in 2015. While the dress got Nyong’o on many best dressed lists, it also

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Hillier Bartley RTW Fall 2019

Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley cast their eyes to the Eighties, and to the pop colors and patterns of Kansai Yamamoto. Their collection was wild, full of color and languid proportions in the form of a check Zoot suit, its jacket slashed open at the front, and a camel pinstripe suit with a short jacket and roomy, tracksuit-style trousers. Blouses and dresses were draped, folded, knotted or tied, as in a silk raspberry dress with statement sleeves and piratical flair, and a black tuxedo jacket with a cascade of jewel-toned, fringed silk spilling from the back. The collection had its New Romantic moments, too, in the form of a white poet’s blouse with wide ruffles around the neck and wrists, and cotton striped shirts with layered sleeves and long flowing tails. These clothes, with their dramatic proportions and look-at-me colors, aren’t for everyone: Only the cool kids need apply.

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Dior Comes in First Place Followed by Chanel for Media Impact Value at Paris Fashion Week

Now that Paris Fashion Week has wrapped up, the media results are in. According to Launchmetrics, which crunched the numbers for this year’s Paris Fashion Week, total Media Impact Value of PFW was $ 129 million, and the total engagement was 42.2 million.
As for the brand rankings by total MIV, Dior came in first place, followed by Chanel, Off-White, Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Chloé, Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Givenchy and Stella McCartney.
MIV measures the impact of relevant media placements on all channels (online, social, print) inclusive of paid, owned, earned mediums. Instagram social media is based on business account monitoring only. Data was monitored between Feb. 25 and March 5 for online and social media data. Instagram social media is based on business account monitoring only.
The top brand account for owned media was Dior, with an MIV of $ 7.1 million and an engagement of 4.2 million. Dior had 78 posts.
Dior’s total MIV was $ 17.4 million, with an engagement of 6.6 million and number of articles and social media posts of 10,700.
Chanel’s total MIV for PFW was $ 11.2 million, and engagement was 3.8 million. The number of posts were 26,100.
The MIV of articles mentioning Karl Lagerfeld, who died Feb. 19, was $ 5.3 million

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Sweatpants That Are Comfy and Cool

E-Comm: Sweatpants That Are Comfy & CoolLooking like your best self is always a welcome ego boost, but we don’t always feel like getting dressed up.
It makes an impact when you have an important meeting to attend, a date…

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Opportunity Abounds in Los Angeles for Indochino

SANTA MONICA — Indochino continues to grow at a rapid clip, most notably in the Los Angeles area where the company on Wednesday opened its newest store in Santa Monica.
The 2,300-square-foot showroom at Santa Monica Place will be followed by additional stores locally on Melrose Avenue and up north in Sacramento. The company, by the end of the year, will have seven California showrooms.
“The business is growing quite rapidly,” president and chief executive officer Drew Green said, adding the company between 2016 and 2018 grew at a compounded annual growth rate of 55 percent. “What we’ve seen is New York is our number-one market and we’ve heavily invested in New York. California represents a big opportunity. We invested in San Francisco on Post [Street]. We’ve got the showroom in Beverly Hills and now we’re going to continue to really expand in California.”
Santa Monica marks the company’s 41st showroom with another 11 in production. The company will likely launch another 20 showrooms in 2020 bringing the total count to more than 70 in the U.S. and Canada, Green said.
Santa Monica will serve the large customer base in the area, with showroom location openings data driven.
Elsewhere in the U.S., Indochino’s 2,234-square-foot Boston

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Rachel Roy Talks Consumers’ Role in Ethical Fashion, White House Chat About Child Labor Issues

A week after discussing child labor with first lady Melania Trump and Nobel laureate Kailash Satyarthi, Rachel Roy wants to keep the conversation going in the fashion industry.
Roy, a U.N. Women-appointed Champion for Innovation and Change, continues to help organize screenings and talks about the documentary “The Price of Free” that highlights Satyarthi’s crusade to end child slavery. Last week the pair joined human rights activist Kerry Kennedy for one at The New School’s Parsons School of Design. Three more screenings are planned in the next few months including one at the Copenhagen Fashion Summit.
Worldwide, 218 million children between the ages of five and 17 are employed including 152 million who are victims of child labor, according to the United Nations. Of those who are forced to work, nearly half of them — 73 million — work in hazardous child labor conditions.
“What I love about Kailash is that he takes the approach that companies just don’t know. That is actually the case. We think the factories are compliant and that are agents [overseas] are doing what we pay them to do but in many, many cases we don’t know. Then we’re given the chance to correct that. That’s what is

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A.F. Vandevorst RTW Fall 2019

For fall, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx had a country girl in mind — low profile but feminine, used to roaming the outdoors. Not one to put up with vestimentary restrictions. So they cut open the sleeves of her suit coat, lining them with zippers in case she wanted to close them back again. Shirt sleeves, too, were opened in this way, but with buttons. There was no planned color scheme — fabrics were chosen for their qualities, and then crafted into garments, making it more spontaneous and perhaps less intellectual, explained Vandevorst. Loose, tan trousers had a sporty, orange ribbon running up the leg while a silky purple shirt had piping details on the cuff, western style  and one shoulder. Also in the lineup, season staples: a long, pleated skirt and smart outerwear, including trenchcoats.
Reflecting the label’s new emphasis on accessories, the showroom presentation was dominated by boots, sneakers and handbags galore — all shapes and sizes. Bags were mostly square-shaped, stamped with the label’s signature cross. Footwear options included a chunky-heeled ankle boot with zebra stripes on the front and lizard skin on the back — suitable, no doubt, for that country girl hitting the city streets.
What the

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Bernard Arnault Passes Warren Buffett in Wealth Race

It’s now Jeff, Bill and Bernard at the tippy top of the Bloomberg Billionaires Index.
The vast fortune of luxury titan Bernard Arnault, who leads LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, hit $ 83.1 billion on Tuesday, just nudging past Berkshire Hathaway head Warren Buffet, who’s net worth is pegged at $ 83 billion by Bloomberg.
Leading the pack is Jeff Bezos, whose fortune — at least before his divorce goes through — ranked him as the world’s richest with a net worth of $ 140 billion. Coming in second is Bill Gates with $ 98.3 billion.
Bloomberg said Arnault added $ 14.5 billion to his fortune this year. This is the first time he has been in the top three in the ranking since it was launched in 2012.
Much of Arnault’s fortune is tied to LVMH, which in turn relies on the luxury market and, increasingly, consumers from China. While fears around spending by the Chinese hit stocks hard in the fall, the company proved the naysayers wrong, at least for now, and posted a 17 percent rise in organic sales growth from its fashion and leather goods businesses last year.
The company has also been pressing hard to catch the next wave of luxury consumers, wherever they are,

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Rachel Lindsay Dishes on Wedding Planning and Her Picks for the Next Bachelorette

Rachel Lindsay, BacheloretteThe wedding countdown is on for Rachel Lindsay.
The reality star of Bachelor and Bachelorette fame recently confirmed her wedding to winner Bryan Abasolo is slated for August in the…

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Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson Names Lindsey Vonn Brand Ambassador

Now that she’s hung up her skis, Lindsey Vonn is turning her attention to fashion.
The celebrated skier, who is retiring from competitive racing, has become the first global ambassador for Project Rock, a line developed by Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson in partnership with Under Armour. Vonn is sponsored by Under Armour. 
“What I find so inspiring about Dwayne is that he always gives 110 percent in everything that he does,” Vonn said. “He basically stands for 100 percent authenticity and 100 percent effort.” 
In a video posted on the Under Armour site on Tuesday, Vonn is pictured in the gym and talking about exercise with Johnson to get the message out about the collection, which is targeted at all athletes regardless of their age, gender, race, creed, sexuality or skill level, according to the brand.
She said the Project Rock collection “doesn’t necessary stand for everything in the gym. It stands for a lifestyle and how you approach life.”
Johnson broke the news on his Instagram account on Tuesday morning, calling Vonn: “A woman who I’ve known, admired and respected over the years. ‬‪The hardest worker in the room. ‬‪The best worker in the room.”
As part of the deal, Vonn and Johnson will be

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Joseph RTW Fall 2019

The message would have to come from the garments; due to a scheduling conflict, Susana Clayton wasn’t in Paris to present her debut collection for Joseph.
They spoke for themselves. Clayton had clearly done her homework and crafted a sturdy lineup that relayed the label’s particular breed of chic, British cool. A laser focus on trousers turned up an array of surefire staples — flattering waists, luxurious fabrics, slightly flared. Knitwear was chunky and oversize, yet sleek, including a handsome cape-shawl topped with a turtleneck, as well as the widest scarf ever — with yarn fringes. Moving down the rack, each piece, it seemed, called for individual consideration — the simplicity conveyed by a new, streamlined approach. Tailoring was sharp, but also purified, and Clayton skimmed the collars off of some pieces, including the coats. Leather work was another strong point, and the collection included well-cut burgundy trousers and a tunic dress. Also striking was a black, goat hair coat.
This was a strong debut, and a well-managed segue from the previous designer, Louise Trotter, who has moved to Lacoste. Relaying the label’s past strength — trousers! — Clayton also managed to spin it forward nicely.

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Yue-Sai Kan China Beauty Charity Fund Expands Sustainable Fashion Program With Online Classes

The fashion industry is buzzing about sustainability and now there’s a crash course for those who want to do more than just talk about it.
The Yue-Sai Kan China Beauty Charity Fund has teamed with WeDesign Group Inc. to broaden the fund’s executive education in sustainable fashion program. While the program is geared for executives who work at Chinese companies that offer fashion, beauty and lifestyle products and services, it is free to anyone who is interested.
There will be an assortment of speakers tackling the enhanced curriculum. Naadam’s Matt Scanlan will address “Sustainable Business Models,” Timo Rissanen, associate dean of the School of Constructed Environments at Parsons School of Design, will explore “A Better Sustainable Future” and “The Caring Economy” author Toby Usnik will discuss “Corporate Social Responsibility.” Created in 2017, the CBCF Executive Education in Sustainable Fashion program is made possible through monies raised through the China Fashion Gala. This year’s edition will honor Jason Wu and will be held on May 1 at The Plaza hotel in New York.
The enhanced curriculum, developed by WeDesign, is designed to give participants the base knowledge and tools needed to adopt environmentally friendly business practices. Launched in 2017, the CBCF Executive Education in

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Cardi B and Offset Turn Up the Heat in Cabo

Offset, Cardi B, 2018 American Music Awards, 2018 AMAsCardi B likes this getaway.
The famed rapper and her on-and-off beau jetted off to Mexico on Sunday for what looks like quite the steamy vacation. The husband and wife, who reunited last…

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Steve Aoki Collaborates With Travel Accessories Brand Fūl

For the guy on the go, travel and gear accessories brand Fūl has unveiled a range of accessories — a collaboration with Grammy-nominated DJ and producer Steve Aoki called the “Fūl-Aoki” collection.
Fūl, originally founded by Justin Timberlake in 2004 and now owned by Concept One Accessories, has carved out a space in the travel category with backpacks, belt bags and travel gear inspired by the nomadic life of a musician but curated for anyone with an active lifestyle.
“Steve and I had been talking about doing something together for Fūl over the past couple of years,” said Sam Hafif, chief executive officer of the accessories brand. “Travel is such a big part of his life. No one I know travels as extensively as he does, so his vision for the product and how it should function comes from a unique personal experience.”

Grammy-nominated DJ and musician Steve Aoki. 
Brian Ziff

The line takes a cue from the streetwear scene and Aoki’s personal style, and splits into two distinct directions. The first is the “street” collection which is comprised of five backpacks and one waist pack, and features  caribiners for headphones, multiple pockets for cables, thick padded laptop sleeves, and ergonomic shoulder straps. “For the

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Ferragamo Touts Exclusive Product at New South Coast Plaza Boutique

ALL GLAMMED UP: Salvatore Ferragamo has opened a door at South Coast Plaza, which also marks the release of an accessories capsule exclusive to the Orange County boutique.
The capsule, designed by creative director Paul Andrew and men’s ready-to-wear design director Guillaume Meilland, includes footwear and men’s, including a men’s backpack bearing South Coast Plaza’s directional coordinates and silk quilting on footwear and handbags. The capsule, the company said, is inspired by California.
The pieces exclusive to South Coast range in price from $ 725 for the men’s leather and denim sneakers to $ 1,890 for the silk quilted messenger handbag.
The store’s footprint totals over 5,500 square feet and is broken down into four rooms with an assortment that includes men’s and women’s shoes, ready-to-wear, bags and leather goods, among other accessories.
The design, which was initially rolled out for the company’s Beverly Hills location, draws some references to Hollywood with Art Deco lamps, anchored by wool carpeting and seating in pink velvet and bouclé on the women’s side and red leather for the men’s. Travertine and marble make up the boutique’s exterior.
Ferragamo’s opening continues a number of recent store openings for the Costa Mesa shopping center, which also includes last month’s debut of Lafayette

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Shiatzy Chen RTW Fall 2019

Wang Chen Tsai-Hsia’s recent shift to a younger direction was less obvious here. Sometimes the styling, like layering a harness over a white lace dress and finishing it off with chunky boots, felt a little awkward.
By contrast, a classic couture sensibility took the upper hand in the richly elaborated creations incorporating embroidery, printing and jacquard-weaving techniques. Surface interest ran high.
A romantic Victoriana vibe also came through strongly, including in the blouses with frilly upturned collars — paired with a long white pleated skirt with a school-girl feel on one look — and black embellished dresses, which were pretty.
Spins on the house’s roots included a short take on the cheongsam, a robe coat wrapped with a large silver belt, and a silhouette pairing a gleaming ivory top evoking an antique folkloric Chinese jacket, worn over a shirt with a Mao collar and shorts, all in the same pale palette.
As a metallic gold sheepskin jacket with pale pink cuffs was also part of this eclectic collection.

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Kourtney Kardashian Is Launching a Brand Called Poosh

Kourtney Kardashian is following in her sisters’ footsteps by launching her own brand, called Poosh.
The reality TV star took to her Instagram today to tease the launch of the brand. Kardashian posted a picture of herself lounging — naked — in a bathroom while drinking a cup of tea surrounded by shelves of beauty products.

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C O M I N G. S O O N. @poosh
A post shared by Kourtney Kardashian (@kourtneykardash) on Mar 4, 2019 at 12:18pm PST

Kardashian tagged Poosh’s own Instagram in the post, which shows a link to the brand’s web site offering a sign-up list for the yet-to-be launched brand. The brand name is a nickname Kardashian uses to refer to her six-year-old daughter, Penelope Disick.
While the initial teaser picture shows Kardashian in a bathroom, it’s unclear if Poosh is a beauty or lifestyle brand. But many have speculated that the line will be beauty-focused given Kardashian’s advocacy of increasing FDA regulations in the beauty industry.
Last year Kardashian teamed with the Environmental Working Group on a trip to Washington, D.C., to meet with staffers from the Senate Committee on Health, Education, Labor and Pensions to

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What to Buy This March Based on Your Horoscope

E-Comm: March HoroscopesHow is it March already?
Real talk, but more importantly: How do we fare astrologically this month? It’s always easier to weather the highs and lows when we know what’s ahead, so…

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Byredo Toasts Collection During Paris Fashion Week

Ben Gorham brought together Byredo’s trendy community during Paris Fashion Week, from Off-White designer Virgil Abloh to Anja Rubik, Aymeline Valade and influencers Pernille Teisbaek and Caroline Daur.
The occasion was Gorham’s accessories collection for the label, which dabbles in beauty and leather goods.
“I’m based in Sweden, so this is the right occasion to bring everyone together and connect with our community,” said the designer.
But despite his cult following, Gorham is committed to going against the fashion current and taking it slow.
For fall, he presented a small, focused accessories collection where he reworked the brand’s popular Seema bag using embroideries and hand-painted techniques.

Byredo fall 2019 
Courtesy Photo

His inspiration was the art of bird-watching, which he was drawn to for its peaceful, community-based nature. He loosely translated this into bags in bright colors and hand-painted inkblots, that reflected the “perfect symmetry of birds.”
A black version featuring neon blue inkblots stood out.
“This style has quickly become our iconic bag, maybe because it has a very strong silhouette — without branding or without hard wear, it still became quickly recognizable. So I felt like I should keep exploring different iterations of this bag and use it as a canvas,” said Gorham. “I’m quite slow, but

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Noir Kei Ninomiya RTW Fall 2019

Life bubbled under the all-black exterior of Kei Ninomiya’s silhouettes. The designer, who learned his craft at Comme des Garçons, themed his collection around roses, which were sported by models on blood-red headpieces created by artist Makoto Azuma, infusing the silhouettes with an organic feel.
The first looks, rigid structures made of ruched taffeta taking over the models’ bodies, hinted at alveoli, while an overskirt with dangling black taffeta threads, worn over a nude tulle skirt, looked like spider’s legs.
Further along, classic pieces like leather biker jackets morphed into different creatures entirely: on one look, a jacket was progressively weaved in to what looked like a round wicker cage, a gleaming leather contraption encasing the entire lower part of the model’s body. The same structure was thrillingly applied to the top of a dress, cradling the model’s torso up to her neck.
There was a strong sense of protection: organza tops had thick wraparound corsets bunching up the waist, while some silhouettes sported leather harnesses with what looked like blown-up tubes coming out to form full skirts. The silhouettes got bigger as the collection progressed, leaving the all-black look for touches of flesh pink and bruised purple: models’ heads peeped out from

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Business Accelerator Tomorrow Unveils Conceptual Showroom in Paris

PARIS — Business accelerator Tomorrow is expanding its business in Paris, with the opening of a showroom that will focus on highlighting gender-fluid, women’s wear and “conceptual streetwear” brands.
The space, which is called Tomorrow Le Palais and situated in Paris’ Left Bank, opened its doors with an event Saturday night during Paris Fashion Week.
For fall 2019, the showroom will represent brands including Ottolinger, Mister IT, Akiko Aoki, Aalto, Pyer Moss, Afterhomework and Situationist. It has also partnered with the likes of Ambush, the jewelry label by Dior’s Yoon Ahn, Colville, Coperni and Diesel Red Tag x GR-Uniforma, who will all create installations that will be showcased across the new space, an 18th-century mansion built by renown architect Germain Boffrand.

The Colville installation at Tomorrow Le Palais. 
Courtesy Photo

“We work for, and service, many different communities and it was important at this point in the development of our platform to be able to showcase our projects in different locations. This has become more apparent, as we are very involved with the brands, and support them across all aspects of their businesses — from investment to product development, to launch,” said Stefano Martinetto, the platform’s chief executive officer.
He added that the aim of the

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This Beauty Supplement Is the Reason People Can’t Stop Complimenting Our Skin

E-Comm: Juice Beauty PREBIOTIX Antioxidant Beauty BoostAround here we’re always on the hunt for new ways to keep out skin tight, taught and wrinkle free.
We’re pretty set in the skin-care arena–you should see our nighttime product…

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Paul Stuart Unveils Opening Price Point Made-to-Measure

Paul Stuart is fighting back against the proliferation of low-cost made-to-measure men’s wear.
The upscale New York-based specialty retailer has quietly launched CustomLab, an initiative that taps into its 80-plus years of expertise creating and selling men’s apparel as well as the large fleet of on-site tailors at its Madison Avenue flagship.
“We’d been talking a lot about what we could do to compete with all the other retailers who have launched made-to-order at an opening price point,” said chief executive officer Paulette Garafalo. That includes companies such as Suitsupply, Indochino, Knot Standard, My.Suit and others. Even more long-standing competitors such as Men’s Wearhouse have embraced this popular category, with many offering customized suits for as low as $ 400.
“We felt we were losing momentum and wanted to continue to be relevant and give the consumer what he wants,” Garafalo said.
So the Paul Stuart team put their heads together and came up with the concept that brings the opening price suit in the store down to $ 995 with a three- to four-week turnaround. Also available are sport coats starting at $ 695 and shirts at $ 195.
An off-the-rack suit at Paul Stuart starts at $ 1,595 and most retail for $ 1,895 to $ 1,995. Bespoke garments sell for

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Swarovski, CFDA Part Ways for Fashion Awards

The CFDA Fashion Awards and Swarovski are parting ways after a 17-year run.
The two organizations won’t be partnering on the 2019 CFDA Fashion Awards, that takes place June 3. Swarovski has been the main sponsor of the industry event.
“After an incredible 17-year partnership on the CFDA Fashion Awards, the CFDA and Swarovski have decided to shift the scope of the relationship and work on other programs to support American fashion. We appreciate Swarovski’s tremendous support of American fashion and look forward to our continued work to support the fashion industry,” said Steven Kolb, president and chief executive officer of the CFDA.
Nadja Swarovski, member of the Swarovski executive board, said, “We are proud of our 17-year partnership with the CFDA Fashion Awards, including our support and recognition of 45 designers through the Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent and the Swarovski Award for Positive Change. Swarovski looks forward to continued support of the next generation of American talent through our diverse range of fashion support programs.”
In 2017, CFDA established the Swarovski Award for Positive Change, which honors an American individual in the fashion industry who has made an impact on American communities and improves the welfare of others through civic responsibility, philanthropy

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Lutz Huelle RTW Fall 2019

Out with the jeans — Lutz Huelle was getting tired of them. The designer has been traveling a lot lately — he was recently named top designer at Delpozo and plans to keep his Paris base — which sparked an interest in sprucing things up. Properly. 
“When you get cold in the airport, you sit around for hours, your pants get frumpy. So I was thinking ‘What could I do to make clothes for travellng that are kind of super glamorous extreme but also super easy?’” 
The answer came down the runway, the glamour channeled through shimmery jacquards and bright taffetas, prominent diamond waterfall necklaces — the graphic kind, from the Eighties — as well as his trademark couture volumes including sleeves with an extra puff. 
Thinking about comfort, and those long waits in public places, he provided pockets, hoods and capes — his latest reconstruction of the bomber jacket morphed into handsome, blanket-like capes which were very sleek. Shifting the volumes from the sleeves to the back— built from gathering around the neck — this season’s couture jacket was a bright fuchsia collarless number, and, in his words “more extreme.”
On the soundtrack, the Vivaldi violins kept getting chased off by the commanding voices

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For Anna Dello Russo, Streetstyle Is a ‘Job’

FASHION TOME: The first floor of Parisian concept store Montaigne Market was packed with students and visitors on Thursday for a book signing by Italian fashion editor Anna Dello Russo.
The journalist, creative consultant for Vogue Japan and brand ambassador for Istituto Marangoni started her afternoon by presenting her “AdR Book: Beyond Fashion” to students at the Paris branch of the fashion school, before heading over to Montaigne Market to sign copies.
The book, which was published in 2018, documents the fashion editor’s 30-year career in the form of box set with a pop-up book, pictures of some of her greatest looks, excerpt from her diaries, a scrapbook and a set of stickers.

A look at Anna Dello Russo’s book, “AdR Book: Beyond Fashion” 
DAVID GODICHAUD

“Phaidon approached me after I auctioned my clothes at Christie’s in February 2018: I had taken pictures of all my looks and we decided to turn it into a magic box, which reflected my approach of fashion better than a regular book,” said Dello Russo. “It’s an experience: it’s at times fun, at others serious, you can touch and play with it. It’s fashion explained to the kids, like a video game.”
Does it feature any tips on posing for

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Miley Cyrus and Liam Hemsworth Cuddle Up on the Red Carpet

Liam Hemsworth, Miley CyrusThe look of love!
Newlyweds Liam Hemsworth and Miley Cyrus had hearts in their eyes when they stepped out on Thursday in Beverly Hills for the Unforgettable Evening Benefit Gala hosted by…

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Hickey Freeman Creates Capsule for 120th Anniversary

NEW YORK — This year marks the 120th anniversary of Hickey Freeman and the brand is creating a special capsule collection for fall to commemorate the milestone.
The brand, which is owned by Authentic Brands Group and licensed to Grano Retail Investments, will celebrate the anniversary in September.
Hickey was founded by two young entrepreneurs, Jacob Freeman and Jeremiah Hickey, in Rochester, N.Y., who manufactured suits for men and boys. Over the years, the brand has survived many ownership changes but its reputation as a purveyor of high-quality, American-made men’s wear continues to this day.
Most recently, Hickey has seen its chief creative director shift from Arnold Silverstone to Aliya Morehead, who has been elevated to vice president of design and merchandising. Morehead, a Greensboro, N.C.-native who had worked hand-in-hand with Silverstone for the past five years, has a rich men’s wear background that also includes six years with Joseph Abboud.
Silverstone has transitioned to work more closely with Grano’s other tailored clothing brand, Samuelsohn.
In a presentation at Hickey’s Madison Avenue showroom, Morehead said that in preparing for the 120th anniversary, she started to research men’s wear from the Twenties. “We did a little vintage shopping,” she said, adding that the Twenties “were a great era

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Kate Middleton Wears Mulberry, Carolina Herrera on Visit to Northern Ireland

As the world impatiently waits for the Duchess of Sussex, Meghan Markle, to give birth this spring, another Duchess has flown a bit under the radar.
That all changed as Kate Middleton, the Duchess of Cambridge, made news this week when she joined Prince William on a surprise trip to Northern Ireland on Wednesday, where the two focused on the region’s youth by visiting outreach programs and charities.
While the trip consisted of a soccer game and kayaking, Middleton still showed off her signature, elegant style on the visit. Middleton started the two-day trip wearing a red Carolina Herrera coat with L.K. Bennett heels on her visit to the Irish Football Association in Belfast.

The Duchess of Cambridge wearing a Carolina Herrera coat, with Prince William on Day One of their visit to Northern Ireland. 
Tim Rooke/REX/Shutterstock

Later in the evening, she changed into a shimmery green Missoni dress for a party at Belfast’s Empire Music Hall, where she was seen pouring a beer alongside Prince William.

The Duchess of Cambridge wearing a Missoni dress, with Prince William on their visit to Northern Ireland. 
Press Eye Ltd/REX/Shutterstock

On the last day of the trip, the Duchess opted for a periwinkle Mulberry coat, which she wore over a darker

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Issey Miyake RTW Fall 2019

“A sudden inspiration invites you into a journey, where unknown sceneries take your breath away; unknown scents captivate you. You find yourself humming songs and getting to know unforgettable tastes, thinking thoughts you never had before. Chance encounters continue to stimulate our creativity,” the show notes at Issey Miyake said.
Here, such encounters included interactions with new fabrics. For fall, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae incorporated pieces made from a new resin-printed material with an array of colors, called “blink.” Dough Dough, a fabric used for spring, popped up again this season with a wool-like fiber and easily modulated shapes, like a twist or a crumple.
This was a coherent, fun, wearable collection with a lot of texture, bounce and flow giving a joyful feel, from the opening jackets, such as the dusky pink coat with fabric pieces spilling from the collar, to springy dresses with colored patchworklike motifs and undulating lines.
A wavy, pleated navy jacket came paired with a fluid blue, purple, yellow, green and black skirt. A lime-colored wide turtleneck topped a gathered Egyptian-blue skirt — all chance encounters that worked out well, in the end.

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Chainmail Is a Trend Happening at Paris Fashion Week

As many stay tuned to Paris Fashion Week, an unlikely fashion trend has popped up among the Parisian street-style set: chainmail.
The 12th-century armor, originally a mesh made up of metal rings to protect the head and body, has been reimagined by many Paris showgoers, who are wearing the style in silver, gold and black as clothing, headwear and handbags.
Giving a nod to the medieval chainmail style, two showgoers were seen wearing the style as headwear, one with a black chain-link headpiece worn over a metallic silver headscarf and another wearing a silver chain-link headpiece with a matching handbag.

Chainmail at Paris Fashion Week fall 2019. 
Cornel Cristian Petrus/REX/Shutterstock

Others went with more of a disco theme. Designer Michelle Elie wore a silver metallic sequined dress with a matching bag, while another paired a metallic gold chain-link top with a matching gold sequined skirt.

Chainmail at Paris Fashion Week fall 2019. 
Grosescu Alberto Mihai/REX/Shutterstock

Over the decades, the style has been a runway staple, most notably by Paco Rabanne, who made it his signature style in the Sixties. Most recently, the look was interpreted for fall by designers including Christian Siriano, who gave models ponytails tied together with links of chainmail; Area, which accented clothing with colorful

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Cameron Diaz and Benji Madden Show PDA on Romantic Date Night

Cameron Diaz, Benji MaddenPDA alert!
Married couple Cameron Diaz and Benji Madden looked more in love than ever on a romantic night out in Los Angeles on Wednesday night. The two were photographed kissing and…

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Brooks Brothers to Debut New Design at Hudson Yards Store

Count Brooks Brothers as among the retailers ready to take the plunge at Manhattan’s new retail destination: Hudson Yards.
When the 2,500-square-foot store opens in April, it will mark the debut of a new global interior design concept that will blend archival architectural elements inspired by the flagship at 346 Madison with modern design features. The store will have a teal and dark blue color scheme with light gray lacquered fixtures and rosewood paneling. Cabinetry and display racks will be trimmed in brushed brass, furniture will have a midcentury modern design and there will be a large sculptural chandelier. Flooring is in ash oak herringbone parquetry paired with mosaic marble.
The store will offer both Brooks Brothers’ flagship collection as well as the higher-priced Golden Fleece line and the women’s collection designed by Zac Posen. There will also be a dedicated area for made-to-measure clothing.
“We are excited for the opening of Brooks Brothers at Hudson Yards as the development is one of the most ambitious and exciting retail projects in New York City history, further demonstrating our brands’ commitment to innovation in all aspects,” said Claudio Del Vecchio, chairman and chief executive officer.
Brooks Brothers last year celebrated its 200th anniversary. In addition

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Forte_Forte Unveils Collection for Neiman Marcus

MEDITERRANEAN BREEZE: Forte_Forte has unveiled a capsule collection developed exclusively for Neiman Marcus.
Called “The Art of Travel,” the capsule, which will be in stores on March 1, offers a concise, cohesive wardrobe of effortless chic pieces, designed to be packed for upcoming seaside escapes.
Inspired by the colors and the lively atmosphere of Sicily’s Aeolian Islands, the capsule, which is rooted in an elegant aesthetic peppered by Bohemian accents, includes a fringed kimono showing a watercolor-like delicate pattern, a Lurex silk chiffon dust coat, a lilac drawstring silk dress, a silver Lurex chiffon kimono and a powder-pink slipdress.
“The Art of Travel” capsule will be available at a selection of Neiman Marcus doors, including San Francisco; Beverly Hills; the Canoga Park section of Los Angeles; Dallas; New York; Las Vegas; Atlanta; Scottsdale, Ariz.; Houston; Chicago; Bal Harbour in Miami; Coral Gables, Fla.; Newport Beach, Calif., as well as at neimanmarcus.com.

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Y/Project RTW Fall 2019

You don’t often these days hear Bobby Brown on a fashion show soundtrack, but as Glenn Martens might say, that’s “My Prerogative.” The 1988 hit provided the musical backdrop for his fall collection for Y/Project, which was a celebration of individual expression that expanded the brand’s eveningwear repertoire.
“We do what we want, and we really want to have fun, and we don’t really give that much of a s–t about anything else,” the designer said backstage. “The idea is that we really want to show garments. We don’t want to get stuck in all the hype.”
Known for his wide-ranging historical references and experimental constructions, Martens whirled through inspirations ranging from the Middle Ages to the Seventies, using texture and optical effects to inject the looks with more-or-less subtle erotic overtones.
Masculine herringbone wool coats came with deep, folded sleeves that split open to reveal a faux fur lining, while body-hugging dresses were pieced together from latex strips. Trompe-l’oeil HotPants were in fact stirrup leggings made mostly of sheer tulle.
The jewelry left no room for imagination. Naked bodies wrapped around necks and wrists, and dangled from ears. The sculpted pieces were by Stéphanie D’heygere, the designer behind Y/Project’s signature maxi hoops. “It’s

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Margaret Hayes, President and CEO of Fashion Group International, Dies at 79

Margaret Hayes, president and chief executive officer of Fashion Group international, died Thursday of complications due to breast cancer.  She was 79.
Hayes has been suffering from breast cancer for the past several years.
Hayes joined FGI in 1994 as president.
In her current role, she oversaw such key programs as the group’s annual Night of Stars gala, a symposium series and a ready-to-wear trend forecast.
Earlier in her career, Hayes was a top merchant at Saks Fifth Avenue. From 1981 to March 1993, Hayes served as senior vice president and general merchandise manager at Saks. She had been a director of Movado Group, Inc. since September, 1993. She also served as a director of International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. from 1993 to May 1, 2012.
Hayes was among the honorees in 2017 at the Samuel Waxman Cancer Research Foundation’s Hamptons Happening fund-raiser. That honor personally hit home for the fashion executive. Hayes, a supporter of many cancer research initiatives, said at the time, “As a cancer survivor myself, cancer research is not only philosophically critical, but has been vital to me in the course of my own life.”
In 2013, Hayes was also honored by K.I.D.S./Fashion Delivers, which is now known as Delivering Good.
In addition

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Stranger Things’ Charlie Heaton Reveals What It’s Like to Work With Girlfriend Natalia Dyer

Natalia Dyer, Charlie Heaton, Pre-Emmys 2018, PartyCharlie Heaton enjoys extra moral support by getting to work with his real-life partner, Natalia Dyer, on Stranger Things.
The 25-year-old British actor and 22-year-old American actress,…

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Josie Natori, Adria de Haume to Be Honored at LOOT 2019 Opening Benefit

The Museum of Arts and Design is gearing up for the 19th installment of “LOOT: MAD About Jewelry.”
The annual event is double-barreled with an exhibition and sale of one-of-a kind contemporary jewelry. Set to bow on April 9, the show will feature the work of 55 up-and-coming and more established international jewelry artists and designers from 18 countries and territories. The majority of the participants will be presenting in New York for the first time.
During the opening benefit gala on April 8, designers and philanthropists Adria de Haume and Josie Natori will be presented with the LOOT awards. Natori recently introduced some signature loot to her own company — unveiling ready-to-wear for her Josie Natori label. Natori is active on boards for the Asian Cultural Council, the Orchestra of St. Luke’s and the Statue of Liberty Ellis Island Foundation (with the second two groups planning their own galas this spring). Honored to receive the award “from a museum that celebrates design art and craft, which I live in and love,” Natori said, “Barbara Tober persuaded me. She is such a force and I have great admiration for what she has done for the museum. Besides, I am a jewelry fanatic,

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Rochas RTW Fall 2019

Alessandro Dell’Acqua has been delving into the couture heritage of Rochas for a couple of seasons, as a form of antidote to the streetwear flooding luxury fashion. Or perhaps he was inspired by the launch of the house’s latest fragrance, Mademoiselle Rochas Couture, a bottle of which was placed on each seat.
For fall, he took the exploration in two directions. The first was fabric, with materials including a heavy speckled tweed, cloqué textures, and a jacquard covered in wool tufts that looked like tiny feathers. The second was cut, via trapeze and cocoon constructions that harked back to the heyday of post-war haute couture.
A roomy black collarless tweed coat was trimmed with a thick band of jet beads at the hem, while a pleated black cloqué skirt was worn with an oversize short-sleeved shirt in ultrafine glossy black leather. Elbow-length black gloves and skintight black leather over-the-knee boots gave the look dramatic bite.
That edge was missing from some of the other outfits, like a duo of tent dresses in frothy tiered organza. Indeed, some teetered dangerously close to period costume, such as a hump-backed black skirt suit, topped with a saucer-like crinkled plastic hat by Stephen Jones. A striking silhouette,

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Virgil Abloh Turns Out for Peggy Gou’s Label Launch

FRIENDS: “She’s like the bride,” quipped Marcelo Burlon as DJ Peggy Gou arrived ever so slightly fashionably late to a dinner at the Beefbar on Tuesday night in honor of the launch of her fashion label, Kirin.
Burlon waxed lyrical as friends of Gou sashayed about in looks from the collection, including DJ-cum-model-cum-muse Sita Abellan, dressed in a lime green plastic trench, offset by her blue hair and eyelashes, and influencer Yoyo Cao in a fake fur and color-blocked leather pant.
“I think the music can be a little louder, no?” said Gou who donned a red kimono with a twisted guns print for the occasion.
“First of all, she’s an amazing DJ. I’m a DJ, too, so I’m always playing her tracks at my parties, and then when you see her and listen to her music, it makes sense and comes together,” said Burlon. “Actually, I did one collection inspired by her, even before New Guards Group decided to launch her brand; she was on my moodboard.”
Virgil Abloh was equally approving. “We’re cut from the same cloth,” he said. “What makes a designer in today’s climate is a little bit of an intangible creative output and presence, and she has it. The

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13 Lip Masks That’ll Be Your New Best Friend

E-Comm: Lip Masks Will Be Your New Best FriendThere’s no nice way to put this, but flaky, dehydrated lips are just never attractive.
It’s a real dilemma this time of year too, when winter weather is drying up our skin–lips…

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Abboud, Daughter Turn Attention to Home Design

Designing luxury men’s wear has been a passion for Joseph Abboud for more than 30 years. And thanks to his daughter Ari, he’s now turned those skills to home design as well.
On her urging, the designer and his daughter collaborated to revamp a house in their New York hometown of Bedford. They bought a 1930s Tudor Revival home with a 19th-century carriage house and set out on a yearlong journey to renovate the house.
Although the designer had designed interiors for his own Bedford and Boston residences, this was Ari Abboud’s first foray into home design. The end result is a well-appointed interior that includes leather countertops, custom cabinets, exposed beams, vintage floorboards, cozy sectional couches, leather wing chairs and even custom-designed cashmere pillows. They partnered with Restoration Hardware on the interior.
The completion of the project found them on the cover of Bedford magazine’s March/April issue.
“This was my night job,” the designer said. “It was a labor of love and family and it was great to collaborate creatively [with my daughter.]”
The house, which is fully furnished, is on the market for $ 3.65 million.

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Marques’Almeida RTW Fall 2019

Part of the M.O. for London-based designers Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida has been to create a dialogue with friends and supporters about what they want to wear, enlisting them to model in their shows and letting them choose the looks they feel most comfortable wearing. For fall 2019, former intern and current muse Laurenca led them to their venue, too, back to the gym of her Paris high school, Lycée Saint-Louis-de-Gonzague, so she could go from awkward teen to runway model in a moment of full-circle empowerment.
“We feel a social responsibility for the images we put out there,” Marques said of the duo’s choice to always cast real-world models of varying heights and shapes, adding that too often in fashion there is a disconnect between the runway and real life.
Upbeat with an edge, the collection was full of everyday pieces you might wear out to brunch with friends, or to go shopping with your daughter, as Beyoncé did in Los Angeles just a few weeks ago, matching her Marques’Almeida rainbow-stripe knit pants and sweater to the artwork on the wall for an Insta photo at L.A.’s Just One Eye.
Folkloric print dresses and dirndl skirts, girlish horse-print T-shirts and T-shirt

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Mugler’s Towering Moment in Montreal

MONTREAL — A raw, biting gale blasts over the snow-covered streets outside of Montreal’s Museum of Fine Arts, where hundreds of people swaddled in parkas huddle expectantly for the arrival of the man for who helped define Eighties’ fashion, Thierry Mugler.
Ironically, it’s as though nature herself conspired to create the perfect entrance for the indomitable, sweeping force that is Mugler. Now 70, the French-born designer’s “my limit is no limits” credo propelled him to stardom four decades ago and took him — and all who would enter — into a fantastical universe filled with daring Space-Age vixens and erotically clothed superheroines who powered their way across the catwalk in their wasp-waisted garb and wide-padded shoulders.
Yet that heritage is still causing a stir as the elusive icon enters the building that will showcase the world premiere exhibition, which makes its debut to the public on March 2.
Indeed, walking past fans, the throng of media and into a private reception filled with Montreal’s fashion elite, Mugler’s smile is hard to miss this evening — even in the midst of this bubbling, blue-lit chamber.
“So many faces, so many dreams,” he said, standing there before the crowd with little more than his moustache, jeans

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Shop the Adidas Originals By Ji Won Choi Collection That Just Launched Today

E-Comm: Adidas Originals By Ji Won ChoiAre you an Adidas fan?
We don’t blame you, who isn’t an Adidas fan? The leggings, the sneaks, the track jackets–they’ve got all the classics. So when they launch a new…

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Vita Fede Unveils Eyewear Collection

Jewelry brand Vita Fede is expanding its purview, now adding eyewear to its lineup.
The brand has just launched its first eyewear collection — with sculptural, metal-accented sunglasses priced from $ 295 to $ 390.
The line was developed in Japan, with Vita Fede founder and designer Cynthia Sakai approaching the range as if it were jewelry for the face.
“Expanding Vita Fede into the eyewear category was a very natural extension of the jewelry line. I view jewelry as any beautiful object that enhances its surroundings. The eyewear line is exactly that — it’s about offering our wearers an entirely new way to wear jewelry, in the same way they might be used to wearing a pair of earrings,” Sakai said.
Further playing to this notion of jewelry, Sakai has developed chains that latch onto the glasses like a lanyard, some accented with pearls. They will retail from $ 190 to $ 220.
For its inaugural season, Vita Fede will sell its eyewear with a direct-to-consumer model and is working to wholesale a second season, aiming for it to hit retailers this fall.

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Borbonese 1910 RTW Fall 2019

Guests mounted the red-carpeted stairs of the Teatro Manzoni, right in the heart of Milan’s fashion district, and entered another dimension. Neon lights and a lightbox runway showcased the first Borbonese 1910 collection, created by designers Dorian Tarantini and Matteo Mena for historic Italian brand Borbonese.
True to Borbonese chief executive officer Alessandro Pescara’s words, the limited-edition capsule collection was a joyful tribute to the Eighties and their icons. There were hints of Stephanie de Monaco in a boxy buttoned-up red dress, while a peroxide-blond model wearing a silk slipdress sewn on to a technical black top was a dead ringer for Brigitte Nielsen.
“It’s the Eighties, but in a fresh and digital way,” said Tarantini, who was also in charge of the mix of New Wave tracks pumping through the show. “We worked a lot on tailoring, because when you’re 16 or 17 years old, the first time you see a tailleur feels very new.”
Wool suits had square shoulders and curving arms, some of them sporting oversize front buttons on the jackets. The creative duo came up with a landscape print named Arcadia, in reference to the golden age of the Milan party scene, which appeared on long-sleeve tops, flowing silk dresses,

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What Nine Oscars Red Carpet Looks Actually Looked Like on the Runway

Designers are known to create completely custom dresses for stars walking the Oscars red carpet, but the 2019 Oscars definitely had its fair share of dresses, gowns, suits and tuxedos that have had major play on the runways of fashion weeks from New York to Paris.
At Sunday night’s 91st annual Academy Awards, stars such as Tessa Thompson, Sarah Paulson and Letitia Wright showed how a little styling can transform high fashion into Hollywood, pairing couture gowns with minimalist hair and makeup or delicate hair accessories.
Much anticipation was around which star would wear one of the late Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel designs at the Oscars, and Thompson came through. Thompson wore a strapless black gown with gold embellishments from Lagerfeld’s last Chanel Couture collection, which showed in January. Thompson’s stylists, Wayman Bannerman and Micah McDonald, paid homage to the late designer’s work by pairing the gown with a makeup look inspired by Coco Chanel herself.

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#tessathompson beauty inspired by #cocochanel #oscars x glam: @babskymakeup hair: @lacyredway #chanelcouture x #chanelfinejewelry nails: @luxebytracylee
A post shared by Wayman + Micah (@waymanandmicah) on Feb 24, 2019 at 6:00pm PST

Working with stylist Jeanne Yang, Lisa Bonet also wore a

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Last-Minute Valentine’s Day Gifts

E-Comm, Last-Minute Valentine's Day GiftsValentine’s Day is a so close we can feel it.
And whether you have big plans to do something special with your honey or no plans at all, doesn’t matter. What does matter is that…

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Chiara Capitani Presents Latest Numero Otto Collection

MILAN — Following the footsteps of her friends Chiara Ferragni and Gilda Ambrosio — influencers-turned-designers of the Chiara Ferragni Collection and The Attico brands, respectively — Italian Internet personality Chiara Capitani presented the latest collection of the Numero Otto label she codesigns with Vasos Sideros.
Capitani, who counts 155,000 followers on Instagram, welcomed friends and buyers at the central Grand Hotel et de Milan during fashion week here to unveil a 20-item lineup of outerwear in fox, lamb, shearling and mink fur, inspired by the Eighties.

Numero Otto’s presentation. 
Courtesy Photo

Some of the designs in the collection were dubbed after Capitani’s friends, including the Gilda black fur bomber with contrasting blue sleeves; others referenced top models, as in the Cindy fur long coat offered both in leopard and acid green.
For this season, Numero Otto also partnered with Saga Furs, the auction house with the broadest selection of superior furs from strictly regulated European sources, reinforcing its commitment to sustainability initiated joining the WelFur project. This is the global animal welfare program taking into consideration key parameters such as the animal’s health, natural behavior, well-being and feeding, as well as human-animal relationship and how a farm is managed.

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Fay RTW Fall 2019

Presented under neon cloud shapes, Arthur Arbesser’s second collection for Fay, the Italian outerwear specialist owned by Tod’s group, was based around the idea of a timeless wardrobe. “I want to make sure it’s a brand that both my father and my nephew would want to wear,” explained the 36-year-old, who also designs for his own brand.
Looks from this coed collection were playfully layered. On women’s silhouettes, short leather gilets in rich bordeaux and cream were worn over coats in contrasting hues, transforming a classic wool peacoat into a statement piece. “The gilet becomes almost like an accessory,” Arbesser said. “There is this idea that you can easily spice up an item, while at the same time keeping it classic and functional.”
The collection felt current, which is partly due to its theme: Arbesser took inspiration from the symbol of the cloud in both the meteorological and digital sense, looking at our modern obsession with data storage. The designer swapped nylon for caramel leather on the brand’s signature “4 Ganci” jacket, recognizable thanks to its four hook fastenings, and added a hood, making it instantly more relaxed. Another version in pristine white vinyl looked fresh and modern.
Raincoats and short jackets, worn

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Alex Honnold Wears Custom The North Face Tux for the Oscars

Professional climber Alex Honnold has taken The North Face to new heights: the red carpet at the Academy Awards.
The star of “Free Solo,” nominated for best documentary, donned a custom tuxedo designed by The North Face design manager Mona Al-Shaalan for the ceremony Sunday night. Riffing on the activewear brand’s Black Series lifestyle aesthetic, the bespoke suit features classic tailoring with details such as a stretch cotton poplin shirt and a minimalist jacquard pocket square and bow tie.
Honnold is sponsored by the brand.
“I really value Alex as an athlete and his personal achievements. It’s an honor to be nominated to work on his first ever tuxedo. The fact that this design is in line with our brands premium lifestyle vision is energizing. It’s definitely a passion project for me,” Al-Shaalan said.
“Free Solo,” directed by Chai Vasarhelyi and Jimmy Chin, documents Honnold’s ascent of Yosemite’s El Capitan rock face without the use of ropes or other protective climbing gear. The film, which recently took home the BAFTA for best documentary, has also been a box office success, hitting a worldwide mark of just under $ 20 million.

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This At-Home Facial Will Save Your Dry Winter Skin

E-Comm: At-Home Facial for Winter SkinEver notice how much drier your skin is this time of year?
No matter how much of your usual moisturizer you slather on before bed, you still wake up to dull, flaky skin. Yeah us too, so…

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Destination XL Finds New CEO

The nearly yearlong search for a new leader has come to an end for Destination XL Group.
On Wednesday, the country’s largest big and tall men’s retailer named Harvey S. Kanter president and chief executive officer. He joined the Canton, Mass.-based company on Tuesday and will succeed David Levin, who had been acting ceo since officially retiring from the role at the end of last year. Levin will continue to serve as an adviser to Kanter until April 1. Kanter will also join DXLG’s board of directors.
Kanter has an extensive background in retail but not in men’s big and tall. Most recently he was president, ceo and chairman of the board of Blue Nile Inc., the online retailer of high-quality diamonds and fine jewelry, which was purchased and taken private by Bain Capital in early 2017.
Before that, he was president and ceo of Moosejaw Mountaineering and Backcountry Travel Inc., a multichannel retailer of outdoor apparel and gear that was acquired by Walmart. He has also held executive positions at Michael’s Stores Inc. and Eddie Bauer Inc.
In addition to continuing to serve on the board at Blue Nile, Kanter also sits on the board of Potbelly Corp., an international sandwich concept. He is

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Karl Lagerfeld Cremated in Nanterre

CLOSING CEREMONY: Karl Lagerfeld was cremated in a private ceremony in Nanterre, in the outskirts of Paris, on Friday, Chanel confirmed.
The Wertheimer family, which owns Chanel, attended the ceremony at the Mont Valérien crematorium, joined by Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel fashion and Chanel SAS, according to a spokeswoman for the house.
Virginie Viard, his longtime right-hand woman who has taken over the creative reins at Chanel, was also in attendance alongside a number of industry executives and friends of the designer, according to a report in Closer magazine. They included LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton chief Bernard Arnault, Sidney Toledano, Carine Roitfeld and Sébastien Jondeau, Lagerfeld’s bodyguard.
Anna Wintour, Princess Caroline of Hanover, Alain Wertheimer and Marie-Louise de Clermont-Tonnerre, a longtime communications executive at Chanel, gave speeches, the house said.
A number of guests, including Inès de la Fressange and model Baptiste Giabiconi, headed to the Chanel headquarters on Rue Cambon after the ceremony.
The couturier, who died on Tuesday, always made clear that he did not want a public funeral after his own death, telling Numéro magazine in an interview last year that he preferred for his ashes to be scattered near those of his mother Elisabeth and those of his cat Choupette, should she pass away before him.
According to a report in Le

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Agnona RTW Fall 2019

This collection, in 50 shades of neutrals, might just win the prize for most comforting collection of Milan Fashion Week. Simon Holloway, Agnona’s artistic director, may have been going for grunge, but what he served up was so much better.
There were textured coats, some long and lean, others in bathrobe styles, wide-leg trouser suits with elongated jackets in chocolate, cream, taupe or olive, and turtlenecks roomy enough to accommodate two small people.
Ribbed scarves skimmed the floor, opaque knitwear fluttered and models wore beanies. Even the footwear was a comfort, cream combat boots or slip-on sandals and socks in stone, gray or mud.
Holloway said he was thinking about the moment he left university in the early Nineties, and that eye-opening grunge aesthetic, “but I wanted to do it in a super-elevated way.”
He certainly didn’t disappoint, enveloping his models in double-face cashmere, tweed jersey, flannel, leather and quilting right down to the shirts and underpinnings — manna for the Agnona customer who’ll want to wrap themselves up, kick back and hum a few strains of “Come as You Are.”

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Chanel at the Oscars: 13 Iconic Karl Lagerfeld-Designed Red Carpet Looks

Karl Lagerfeld was a master of many things, from design to photography — but his red-carpet looks were especially spectacular. With the Academy Awards coming up on Sunday, WWD looks back at the late designer’s most memorable Chanel looks at the Oscars.
Historically, Lagerfeld’s take on Oscar fashion was about clean silhouettes and a neutral color palette fused with intricate, couture details such as embroidery and beading, as seen on the likes of Diane Kruger, Sarah Jessica Parker and Pharrell Williams.
Julianne Moore wore Chanel couture dresses back-to-back for her best actress win in 2015, and then again to present in 2016. Lagerfeld created a custom look in 2018 for Margot Robbie, for whom he designed a minimalist white gown with off-the-shoulder crystal embroidery, to critical acclaim.
Perhaps the most newsworthy Chanel look at the Oscars, however, came in 2001 when Jennifer Lopez wore a sweeping taupe ballgown with a transparent bodice. Only in Hollywood.
Click through the above gallery to see more of Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel designs on the Oscars’ red carpet.

Julianne Moore picked up the Oscar for best actress in 2015, wearing a Chanel couture gown  covered in no fewer than 80,000 sequins. 
Chris Pizzello/Invision/AP/REX/Shutterstock

 

Margot Robbie wearing custom Chanel at the 2018 Academy

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Our Favorite Smell-Good Scents to Buy Now

E-Comm: Smell Good ScentsThere’s a reason smell is one of the five senses: It’s important, you know.
When you walk into a space that has a warm and welcoming aroma, you notice. It really sets the tone for…

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DL1961 Introduces the Performance Denim for Men

DL1961, a premium denim brand that combines functionality and versatility for eco-conscious customers, is introducing a men’s performance denim line. 
The collection features more than 50 styles and comes in five fits ranging from skinny to straight. The line is designed for comfort and functionality and to be worn to work, dinner outings and everything in between. 
“We built DL on the foundations of quality, fit, innovation and sustainability. The hidden element that makes this pant so special is the added breathability — making the garment functional for year-round wear,” said Zahra Ahmed, DL1961‘s vice president of marketing. 
DL uses performance fabrics that are suitable enough for all-day wear, so customers can achieve the right look without sacrificing comfort. This men’s performance denim line molds with the body, creating a fitted shape that doesn’t feel too tight or stretchy.  
The brand uses eco-friendly fabrics, such as Tencel-lyocell. According to DL, Tencel-lyocell fosters a closed loop process, meaning that the brand’s clothes prioritize the environment from sourcing to final product. 
“We use up to 50 percent less energy and water and up to 60 percent less carbon footprint resulting in lower environmental impact, compared to our competitor’s product,” Ahmed added. “This brings significant lifecycle savings of water

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2019 Oscars: Everything You Need to Know About This Year’s Academy Awards

The 91st annual Academy Awards has had its fair share of controversy.
Starting last August, the drama began when the Academy introduced new measures to increase viewership for the awards show. It announced that the telecast would be cut down to exactly three hours, meaning many of the awards would not be televised. Then the drama shifted over to the hosting gig, which the Academy briefly gave to comedian Kevin Hart, then quickly took away.
The drama hasn’t stopped there. There was also the brief introduction of a new award, called “Best Popular Film,” which was met with much criticism from the film industry and beyond, and the news that the Academy wasn’t letting all five “Best Original Song” nominees perform during the telecast.
From who’s hosting and performing to what can be expected during the live telecast, here’s everything you need to know about this year’s Academy Awards.
When and where?
The 91st annual Academy Awards are on Sunday, Feb. 24, at 8 p.m. EST. The ceremony will be held at the Dolby Theatre in Los Angeles and will be televised on ABC.
Who’s hosting?
No one. Briefly signing on to host the ceremony in December, comedian and actor Kevin Hart stepped down from the post after

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Etro Fall 2019

Veronica Etro’s memories of being a coed at Central Saint Martins in London from 1993-97 came out to play for Fall 2019, which started at home with her family’s collection of antique 18th-century paisley shawls and ended with The Clash.
Coming off Etro’s 50th anniversary exhibition at MUDEC last fall, the designer’s thought was to take all that paisley-covered history and mess with it a bit. So there was a new venue for the runway show, the Conservatorio Giuseppe Verdi, Italy’s largest music academy, where the colonnade seating offered an intimate vantage point for seeing the lush fabrics at the heart of the brand.
The collection flowed easily from aristocratic seat to Nineties street, from a dandy’s smoking robe over ruffled  paisley blouse and trim pants to bejeweled Chelsea boots with an edge. An ankle-sweeping paisley wool skirt, complete with gold tassel trim, could have been borrowed from that antique shawl archive — or the drawing room. “It’s all about how you mix things up and wear them, that’s life I guess,” said the designer backstage.
There was an air of the New Romantics in the crisp white men’s wear shirts (worn with brooches at the neck, natch) layered under baroque-looking minidresses, and

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U.N. Officials, Executives Discuss How to Get Board Members and Consumers Interested in Sustainability

United Nations officials and environmentally minded executives discussed some of the sustainability challenges in the CG&R industry Thursday afternoon at the United Nations.
In welcoming guests to the Baker McKenzie program, the U.N. Global Impact’s chief executive officer and executive director Lise Kingo spoke of the need for greater involvement. Founded nearly 20 years ago by former U.N. Secretary General Kofi Annan, the U.N. Global Compact works in conjunction with the private sector to give globalization a human face, Kingo said.
“Personally, this vision has never been more relevant than it is today. We are living in a world where we need a clear lighthouse that we can all steer towards that has the purpose of creating a world that leaves no one behind,” she said. “We believe approaching the 17 goals starts with embedding the 10 principles [which are rooted in human rights, labor, environment and anti-corruption] in the way that any business is run. It is the best guarantee for not being accused of doing a little greenwashing as opposed to taking one or two of the goals and putting them into a company’s annual report.”
The U.N. Global Compact has strengthened to more than 10,000 companies from 40, when it

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Comfy Clothes Up to 50% Off Now

E-Comm: Comfy Clothes Up to 50% Off NowIt’s been so cold out all winter long that we hardly can feel our faces.
And because that’s the case, we’ve been stocking up on comfy separates–like crazy–for the past few…

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Dunhill to Spotlight New Brand Positioning in U.S.

The Alfred Dunhill brand can trace its roots all the way back to 1893 but its presence in the U.S. market over the years has been spotty at best.
In the Fifties, the London-based brand operated major stores on Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles and Rockefeller Center in New York and counted celebrities such as Frank Sinatra as fans.
But it slowly lost its grip on the market as management changed, stores closed and the brand cycled through a number of designers including Richard James, Nick Ashley, John Ray and Kim Jones.
Enter Andrew Maag, a former Burberry executive who joined the brand at the end of 2017 and promptly set out to “right size” the business and redirect its focus back to its core business. “We were really missing the mark in the luxury space,” he said. “But we’re just now experiencing a turnaround.”
That has been helped in large part by the positive reaction to the modern tailoring created by the company’s new creative director, Mark Weston.
At the same time, Maag said that since joining the company, one of his major focuses has been updating the fleet of stores. “They desperately needed to be brought up to relevant standards,” he said.
Next month,

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Vogue Italia and Yoox Celebrate Upcycling Capsule

MILAN — For the second edition of The Next Green Talents award, Vogue Italia and Yoox invited seven young designers to create a unique silhouette using the sustainable technique of upcycling.
Guests flocked to the Palazzo Morando on Wednesday night to discover the selection of international designers handpicked by Sara Sozzani Maino, head of Vogue Talents. Each designer unveiled both a limited-edition silhouette, created using items from the Yoox archive and sold on the Yoox web site, and their latest collection, a selection of which will hit Yooxygen, the online store’s platform for emerging talents, in September.
British designer Bethany Williams had just flown in from London, where she received the Queen Elizabeth II award for her “Adelaide House” collection, which she presented during men’s fashion week in London. (The previous recipient of the award is Richard Quinn, who was graced with the presence of the Queen herself on the day of the ceremony.)
Alongside her fall 2019 collection, created in collaboration with a Liverpool-based shelter for women, Williams unveiled an upcycled denim look crafted with old Yoox prototypes. The denim was unstitched to create a completely new silhouette and screen-printed with illustrations by Giorgia Chiarion.
“Upcycling is a passion of mine,” the designer

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Genny RTW Fall 2019

Sara Cavazza Facchini was thinking of snow queens and silent, nighttime forests for this romantic collection of knits, puffers and crystal-embellished dresses in white, silver and ice blue. It wasn’t as overtly sexy as past seasons, and that was refreshing, with the clothes covering and protecting, rather than hugging curves and flashing the flesh.
“I wanted it to be cocooning, enveloping and fluid,” said Facchini, who sent out a lineup of snow white, gossamer knit dresses and tops, and paired with matching jackets with giant puffer sleeves, shearlings or capes. The palette extended to silvery gray, as in a long, billowy dress with crystals running down the front or one with a deep V-neck. It also turned icy blue in the form of a tailored coat layered over a matching, hooded sweater.
Even the most robust snow queen needs to keep warm now and then, so Facchini worked in some fiery reds with a feathery chubby, a V-neck silk gown with big puffer sleeves and a similar one with button cuffs and a rounded collar.
The designer tossed a panther print into the mix, too, which surfaced on a loose, tailored suit and a dreamy white gown, adding a “feline, savage” edge to the

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In the Spotlight: Overcoat

Name: Overcoat
Designer: Ryuhei Oomaru
Backstory: Oomaru is coy when asked to name the high-end clients he services at Oomaru Seisakusho 2 Inc., his 10-year-old pattern-making and sample creation studio on Canal Street in New York, saying only that they are among the best-known names in the industry. What the former head tailor for Donna Karan isn’t reluctant to talk about, however, is his personal side project, Overcoat, a brand he created three seasons ago to offer a distinct structural take on apparel that is based on his skills in creating patterns, expertise he undoubtedly honed during his time working for Comme des Garçons. The unisex and uni-size collection, which has been expanded to include suits, shirts and trousers, is inspired by the storefront awnings he saw in his adopted home of New York. The collection was shown for the first time during New York Fashion Week: Men earlier this month.
Key styles: Outerwear is still a key part of the line and features several capelike models that have been created from canvas and vinyl fabrics like those used in awnings. A “cape shoulder” is a silhouette for fall and is created from one continuous rectangular piece that creates a capelike drape when

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Lil Xan’s Fiancée Dishes on Their Wedding Plans and Baby News

Lil Xan, Annie SmithLil Xan is no longer a heartbreak soldier–because he’s in love and has a baby on the way.
Over the weekend, the 22-year-old rapper shocked fans when he revealed he and his special…

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Hickey Freeman to Add Jobs at Rochester, N.Y., Factory

Hickey Freeman is staffing up in Rochester, N.Y.
New York Gov. Andrew M. Cuomo said Wednesday that Luxury Men’s Apparel Group, the parent of Hickey Freeman, has committed to creating up to 80 jobs over the next three years at its factory in the upstate city. LMAG has also said it would retain the current 420 positions in the factory. 
“Hickey Freeman has been a fixture of Rochester’s business and manufacturing community for generations, and this investment will ensure it remains part of the city’s economic fabric for decades to come,” Cuomo said. “We are proud to support the expansion of this iconic Rochester company, creating quality jobs for hardworking residents and moving the Finger Lakes forward.”
The announcement was made in Rochester by Lt. Gov. Kathy Hochul. In exchange for the investment, New York State will provide $ 4 million through a Finger Lakes Forward Upstate Revitalization Initiative convertible loan. The factory is in the process of upgrading its facility, a project that is expected to be completed by the end of this year and cost $ 8.2 million. 
Stephen Granovsky, chairman and chief executive officer of LMAG, said, “This year Hickey Freeman turns 120…we intend to re-engineer this factory enabling our clothing to be manufactured for

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Andrea Tobin: From Tennis Strokes to Brushstrokes

For Andrea Tobin, a former athlete and the artist behind Marla Cielo, a handbag brand designed and made in New York City, launching a new collection reminds her of the narratives behind each design.
“Each piece is a story,” Tobin told WWD. She is a self-taught artist, entrepreneur and previously was a competitive tennis player. Tobin reveals the same physicality in her quickened brushstrokes on canvas as she once exhibited on the tennis court — and simultaneously across business ventures. Her career also includes the cofounding of dropship solution provider RevCascade and influencer commerce platform Souler.
Marla Cielo was founded in 2010 and positioned where “art meets fashion.” Each piece is one-of-a-kind, and on Tuesday, Tobin celebrated the latest handbag collection with an intimate gathering in Manhattan’s East Village.
Each canvas, featuring Tobin’s original acrylic art, produces a moderate production run of wristlets, totes, clutches or cross-body bags and is manufactured in one of the last remaining handbag factories in New York City’s Garment District.
The handbags are suede-lined and designed for the customer who craves function without sacrificing art. Tobin’s products retail for anywhere between $ 160 to $ 700 a piece.
Perhaps representing a predominating trend toward the marriage of art and fashion and consumer

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Gilberto Calzolari RTW Fall 2019

Gilberto Calzolari reinforced his commitment to sustainability by employing recycled fabrics, plastic bottles and fishnets, to craft a colorful, eccentric lineup referencing both Japanese nature and the work of artists Piet Mondrian and Damien Hirst.
Floral motifs came in the form of maxi prints on black dresses punctuated by seductive see-through details, embroideries on palazzo pants and kimono-inspired jackets, as well as 3-D embellishments made of recycled plastic adorning coats and skirts with a high side slit.
Mondrian’s graphic artworks influenced both the checkered patterns splashed on breezy dresses and structured tops and the color palette juxtaposing primary tones to pops of pink, white and orange. At the same time, blue PVC skirts, long-sleeve blouses and belts with pockets referenced Hirst’s work.
The most notable looks blended all these elements, as seen on an ensemble where a checkered pink blouse was combined with chocolate floral flared pants with utility pockets and styled with a yellow bow belt decorated with PVC inserts.

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Belstaff Introduces New Retail Concept in East London Store

NEW LOOK: Belstaff’s Spitalfields store has undergone a makeover, to reflect the brand’s new retail vision and “community-first approach.”
To mark the new direction, the store will hold a three-day consumer-facing event at the East London location. The event will run from Feb. 21 to 24 and will give customers the opportunity to bring in their Belstaff jackets to be repaired and rewaxed. There will also be stations available to monogram their jackets and shop limited-edition T-shirts.
“We have a great history of outfitting those with an adventurous spirit and an appreciation of the authentic and well-designed. It seems only right that we give these people a place to come together and spend time, a place where they will feel at home,” said  Belstaff creative director Sean Lehnhardt-Moore, who joined the company last June following its sale to Ineos.

Inside Belstaff’s Spitalfields store. 
Courtesy

The new store concept, designed by Brinkworth Design, takes inspiration from the brand’s industrial roots and British biking culture in the Fifties and Sixties when bikers would hang out in cafés.
To mimic that hangout space, and evoke feelings of comfort, the store is designed with exposed brick, wood flooring, antique cabinets, antique-style furniture and a record player. It also has an

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From Cool Capes to Shimmering Suits: Top Fashion Trends You Can Wear IRL

Fashion Week 2019, Trends, Embellished SuitsPut on your most stylish raincoat because it’s time for a trend forecast.
With fashion month in full swing, runways around the world are debuting the freshest work of the…

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Retailers Weigh In on the Pros and Cons of Men’s Fashion Week

Men’s wear retailers had a choice to make this week: stay in New York for the men’s runway shows or jump a flight to Las Vegas for the trade shows.
As reported, both events overlap this season; an unfortunate shift in dates by Project to a week earlier forced merchants and vendors to choose between the two.
NYFW: Men’s will run Feb. 4 to 6 in New York City — the start of the larger 10-day New York Fashion Week — while Project, Liberty Fairs and Agenda will run Feb. 5 to 7 in Las Vegas.
The men’s part of the show calendar has had trouble gaining traction since it was introduced by the Council of Fashion Designers of America four years ago. Most of the marquee designers have either opted for dual-gender shows — Tom Ford, Michael Kors and John Elliott among them — or showed in Europe, such as Ralph Lauren and Thom Browne. Other men’s designers have opted out of showing in New York altogether including Billy Reid, Perry Ellis and Carlos Campos.
With some exceptions — Joseph Abboud, Todd Snyder, Robert Geller and Ovadia & Sons — the men’s-specific days on the calendar are full of little-known designer names, many of

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Economic Incentives Key to Solving U.K. Fashion Industry’s Sustainability Issue, Says Parliament

LONDON — Sustainability campaigners have applauded a new report by the U.K.’s Environmental Audit Committee that highlights the culture of throwaway fashion and the unfavorable working conditions in the country’s apparel factories.
“The report is unequivocal in its message: ‘The fashion industry’s current business model is clearly unsustainable,’” said Prof. Dilys Williams, director at the London College of Fashion’s Centre for Sustainable Fashion. “Its call for action is one that involves us all, as designers, makers, sellers, buyers, wearers, investors, educators, communicators and legislators.”
Williams added that education, and ongoing collaboration, between tutors, students, researchers and NGOs, can be a big driver of change.
Frances Corner, head of London College of Fashion, focused on the report’s suggestion that schools teach younger students how to repair clothes. She said some of the most vital steps in addressing fashion’s sustainability issue is putting an end to “throwaway” fashion.
“I hope this report marks a turning point — as has been identified by Mary Creagh [the member of Parliament who spearheaded the investigation] that a voluntary approach to sustainability has not worked. It’s now time for the U.K. fashion industry to lead by example,” said Corner.
The report is the result of an investigation that took place throughout

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Goat RTW Fall 2019

Jane Lewis took a bohemian turn, and put the focus on eveningwear, for this brand, which has been going from strength to strength internationally at specialty and department stores as well as on the Goat web site. Her collection included long paisley dresses, some with pussy bows and Lurex stripes, and other languid ones in black French tulle with ribbon at the neck. She described the latter as “sexy but covered.” So easy is this hippie luxe girl, who even the evening dresses have been designed to wear with flats or sneakers. Thinking practically, she also designed short capes in velvet or tweed with a snap at the front.
Daywear was more tailored, with standouts including a long tweed blue coat with a belt, a tailored peacoat and long, loose crepe dresses with hemlines that are meant to swish when they move and some neat velvet dresses with a little ruffle at the cuff and a lineup of pencil skirts and dresses, some with a sweetheart neckline.

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London’s Up-and-Coming Designers Explore Female Power and Sexuality for Fall

LONDON — Female power and sexuality sparked the creativity of many of the emerging fashion names in London this season, who showcased their work at the British Fashion Council’s Discovery Lab show space.
Through immersive presentations, designers delivered different takes on femininity and conveyed powerful social statements with their fall collections.
Central Saint Martins graduate Katie Ann McGuigan took the spotlight with her feminine reinterpretation of Japanese Bosozoku — or “Speed Tribe” — biker subculture, that resulted in a vibrant representation of a powerful underground girl gang.
The designer looked at vintage imagery for inspiration, to channel the Bosozoku bikers’ attitude into the collection.

Katie Ann Mcguigan RTW Fall 2019 
Courtesy Photo

In particular, she injected the subculture’s signature approach of customizing uniforms with slogans in her grungy lineup, layering prints and textures in the shades of lilac, mint, ochre, navy and jade. “Road Runner,” “Only Night Angels” and “Highway Danger” slogans appeared on hand-printed leather biker jackets, which were paired with pleated skirts, organza tie-dye pants, floaty tulle dresses and chunky knitwear.
A different type of gang was on Natalie B. Coleman’s mind when conceiving her “Sisters” collection. The concept was centered around the needling craft passed down from mothers to daughters, along with the knowledge about

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Why This Pair of Classic Levi’s Is All Over Instagram

E-Comm, Why This Pair of Classic Levi's Is All Over InstagramAround here we’re practical people, but we also appreciate a good Instagram trend.
After all, it is our job to scour the internet, keeping a close eye on what the celebs are wearing…

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EXCLUSIVE: Dunhill Partners With Mr. Bags for White Day

SHANGHAI — White Day, a.k.a. the male version of Valentine’s Day, has become increasingly popular in China, a country inundated with Eastern and Western commercialized, romantic festivals. Celebrated one month after Valentine’s Day, on March 14, the holiday became popular in Japan, before spreading to other East Asian countries, including China. The concept behind the day is that men are repaid by their loved ones for the effort they put into making Valentine’s Day special.
This year, White Day will be celebrated by British luxury men’s wear brand Dunhill and popular Chinese influencer Mr. Bags with a limited-edition collection of 368 pieces, with the edition number etched inside each bag. The number of pieces was chosen by Tao Liang of Mr. Bags as it is a combination of Chinese lucky numbers, as well as his own personal lucky numbers. This is just one example of the attention to detail paid by the online entrepreneur, whose previous luxury bag collaborations have sold out within minutes. “It’s not like we want to use this number to create something lucky. It’s just that I want everything to be perfect,” said Liang.
Liang’s Chiltern drawstring backpack is his first collaboration to focus on a single man’s

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Bulgari Makes Donation to Protect Roman Archeological Site

BULGARI DONATES: Bulgari is again stepping forward to restore a Roman landmark.
The Italian jewelry firm, headquartered in the Italian capital, is donating 500,000 euros to develop the archeological site of the Area Sacra in Largo Argentina, which will be accessible and regularly open to visits for the first time.
The sum will be added to the remaining 485,594 euros of the funds allocated for the restoration of the Spanish Steps as per the agreement signed by Bulgari in 2014 in which it was established that any remaining funds would be allocated to projects preserving the cultural heritage of the city. At the time, Bulgari revealed it planned to support the restoration of the Spanish Steps and pledged to donate 1.5 million euros.
“We are very proud of this further gift to the Eternal City: after the restoration of the Spanish Steps, which have always been a meeting point for Romans and tourists, we will enhance another site at the center of the social and spiritual life of the ancient capital,” said Jean-Christophe Babin, chief executive officer of the Bulgari Group. “Visitors will at last be able to admire beautiful and important remains from close quarters, in a square surrounded by Renaissance and medieval

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Rejina Pyo RTW Fall 2019

Rejina Pyo said she was in the middle of doing up her house when she designed this collection, which was why she focused on structure. From sphere-shaped heels and geometric bags to big, boxy shoulders, Pyo took to construction skillfully.
“It made me think what clothing meant,” she mused. “I wanted to go back to that time where clothing was cherished and fixed by your granny.”
Pyo doesn’t have to worry about people throwing away her clothes. Once again, she demonstrated her intuitive of understanding of the modern woman: She’s multidimensional, feminine yet strong and classically cool, but also isn’t afraid to show that she’s not always put together — represented by large puffer jackets chucked haphazardly into large tote bags.
Silk pieces — A-line paneled dresses, floral-print skirts, tie-neck blouses and slouchy hoodies — contrasted with men’s inspired tailoring such as boxy blazers with a double hem. Trousers were either cropped and slightly flared or carrot-shaped.
“I wanted to bring the best of each era and what really empowered women and re-create that feeling of not caring what other people think about,” she said.
Among the best looks were a sleek brown leather jacket with a Peter Pan collar, a plaid pencil skirt with

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Damian Lewis, Helen McCrory Talk Fashion, New Projects at London Shows

FASHION ROUNDS: Husband-and-wife actors Damian Lewis and Helen McCrory kicked off their week in style, attending a range of fashion shows on Monday, including Erdem, Roksanda and Christopher Kane. “I love the glamour and the theater of it: These shows are like 15-minute or five-minute plays,” said McCrory, who said she sees fashion as “a great, big, theatrical dress-up box.”
McCrory, who plays Aunt Polly in the British TV show “Peaky Blinders,” about gangsters in post World War One England, said she also wanted to cheer on her pals Erdem Moralioglu and Roksanda Ilincic. I go to see and support their work just like they would come and see me in a play or film. We support each others as artists in London.”
Having just wrapped up series five of “Peaky Blinders,” the British actress has had her hands full with Tom Rob Smith’s new BBC drama “MotherFatherSon,” in which she will star alongside Richard Gere, Billy Howle and Pippa Bennett-Warner.
Lewis, meanwhile, is working on the new season of “Billions,” reprising his act as the ambitious billionaire Bobby Axelrod and playing alongside Paul Giamatti. That said, there’s one role he can’t see himself taking on in the future: Fashion designer. “People have seen my sense

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Top Shiny Hair Products–Ranked

E-Comm, Top Shiny Hair Products-Ranked It’s amazing how a fresh blowout or any special attention paid to our hair, really, can affect our mood.
Even if you’re running late and still in your pajamas–if your hair is…

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New York Trade Shows Set Uncertain Tone for Season

The rollicking situation with the U.S. government and the subsequent economic uncertainties are giving specialty stores some angst about their prospects in 2019.
With that as the backdrop, retailers were cautious as they shopped the trade shows in New York City last month. They scoured the aisles of Project, Liberty Fairs and Man searching for those special items that would draw customers into their stores. And luckily, they were able to find some things that fit the bill — updated knitwear, outerwear and accessories in particular — from some off-the-radar vendors with a creative bent.
“The fourth quarter overall was good, but the last two weeks of the year with the government shutdown and the market tanking took some steam out of our results,” said Ken Giddon, president of Rothmans.
Although he remains positive, Giddon said he’s expecting a “fight” to hit last year’s numbers, especially as traditional tailored clothing sales continue to drop. “There are a lot fewer suits being bought so we have to find dollars to make up for that,” he said.
And so Giddon, who admits that he loves “the hunt” at trade shows, pored through the hundreds of brands on display to find those replacement dollars. The good news,

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Willy Chavarria to Repurpose Wool for Charity in Fall Collection

Willy Chavarria has come up with a novel idea for his submission for the International Woolmark Prize. As expected, Chavarria, one of six finalists for the honor, will present a wool-based collection, “Futurismo,” on Saturday during London Fashion Week. It will offer what the designer described as a “Band-Aid skin,” a double-layer knitwear fabric that combines a 45 percent nylon exterior with a merino wool interior for moisture wicking, breathability and climate control.
But what he’s hoping will set apart the collection of overcoats, pullovers, cardigans and oversized trousers is his message of sustainability.
The designer is asking customers to return the pieces when they’re finished wearing them and the wool will be repurposed into roses that will be sold and the proceeds donated to Life After Hate, an organization that fights racism and violence.
Chavarria said, “The idea of Australian merino wool being an incredibly sustainable fiber made me approach human sustainability as part environmental and part humanitarian. I took a human-centric approach to share the idea that kindness is the all-encompassing objective when it comes to sustainability and shifting fashion to more bio-centric fibers.”
He said every collection he designs includes “some form of an angle in which I hope to share

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Burberry RTW Fall 2019

With a debut collection that’s just hitting the shop floor, Riccardo Tisci is still under the microscope at Burberry, and he’s had to work rapidly — and publicly. There are shareholders to please and stores to fill, 442 worldwide, plus franchises and wholesale outlets, and a drumbeat of monthly T-shirt, hoodie and accessories drops sold via Instagram. The company, which has a market capitalization of 8 billion pounds on the London Stock Exchange, is also in transition mode under the new chief executive officer Marco Gobbetti, with big plans for growth.
Tisci took a step forward for fall, tightening up the show, clarifying his vision and making a return to that classy streetwear for which he’s known. His lineup featured tailored coats with puffers tacked to the back or with big faux furry hoods bursting from the collars. He tore apart rugby shirts and stitched them into a dress, punk-ed up leather baseball jackets with little phrases like “Burberry isn’t good for you” down the woolen sleeve, and gave a shearling a tough edge with slicks of black patent leather.
The designer has never made a secret of his intentions: He wants to dress everybody — mothers and daughters, fathers and sons

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London Label Vin and Omi Goes Even Greener for Fall 2019

NATURAL WOMAN: The zero-waste concept label Vin and Omi served up a green cocktail of a collection this seasonal. Dresses at the fashion show were made from organic nettle, cow parsley and linen fabric from the English Cotswolds, while olive green and mandarin latex fabrics were sourced from the brand’s plantation in Malaysia.
Chunky knitwear was fashioned from “combed-off” alpaca wool that had been donated from Vin and Omi’s friends, while Jodie Kidd returned to the runway after 10 years, opening the show in a floral-print dress.
Other garments were made from recycled plastic bottles while the fish-shaped bags came from old vinyl film posters, part of a long-term strategic partnership with the outdoor media owner Ocean Outdoor. Those vinyl pieces will eventually be developed into a retail line, with sales and profits to be donated to the Marine Conservation Trust.
Vin and Omi also got their green fingers on the models’ makeup: Decorative plasters on the models’ faces were made from bamboo fiber while metal foil flowers on the hats and jackets came from cans that had been collected by the homeless in Birmingham, England. The design duo also showed off a biodegradable perfume holder that was designed for Floral Street, the eco-friendly fragrance label that partnered

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Shop the Winter Slip Dress Trend

E-Comm: Shop the Winter Slip Dress TrendWe’re not going to argue with you that the weather outside is not great.
But let it be known that we’re not going to let that small detail interfere with our date night outfit….

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Eton’s Davidson to Turn Over Reins to Nonfamily Member

The founding family’s control at Eton is coming to an end.
On Friday, the upscale Swedish shirt brand said David Thörewik, currently managing director at Weekday, a brand owned by H&M, has been named chief executive officer. He will succeed Hans Davidson, the grandson of the founders, who has served as the company’s ceo since 1989. Davidson will continue to serve as a senior adviser to the company for at least the next two years to help with a smooth transition and “ensure Eton’s core values and culture remain,” a spokeswoman said.
“To Hans, it was important that they chose a successor that was a great fit with the company, someone who shares the same core values and has a similar cultural background. Hans is leaving the role as Eton’s ceo with great confidence knowing Eton’s future is in the best possible hands,” she said.
Under Davidson’s leadership, Eton has expanded its product assortment, improved its logistics, digitalization and brand identity. In 2018, the privately owned company reported double-digit growth, closing the year with revenues of 97 million euros, up 12 percent compared to the previous year. It is projecting sales of 100 million euros in 2019.
“Hans Davidson and the whole team at Eton have

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Edward Crutchley and Colovos Win Woolmark Prize

LONDON — Edward Crutchley and Colovos have been named the winners of this year’s International Woolmark Prize.
A panel of judges, which included designer Alber Elbaz, InStyle editor in chief Laura Brown and actor Gwendoline Christie, chose the winners from among 12 finalists.
Colovos won in the women’s wear category and Crutchley won for men’s wear as well as the Innovation award. The winners were announced during London Fashion Week.
The competition recognizes design talent that uses Australian Merino wool in beautiful and creative ways. Previous winners include Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent.
“I think for someone who is so focused on textiles, it’s really a validation for me that what I do is of value, and I think that’s something that we all look for in our work,” said Crutchley, who is known for working with artisanal textiles.
For the collection that he presented to the panel, Crutchley said he wanted to set himself a challenge by creating pieces using 100 percent merino wool. “No blends, no mixes and to achieve as many different levels of texture, weights, and drapes as I could,” he said.
Looks ranged from devorée pieces and intricate jacquards to tie-dyes.
Crutchley and Nicole and Michael Colovos of Colovos are awarded 200,000 Australian dollars,

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Halpern RTW Fall 2019

Some designers are responding to the dire political mood in the U.K. by darkening their color palettes and toughening up their fabrics.
Michael Halpern is instead delving further into his fantastical world of sequins and all things shiny and over-the-top.
For his fall range – shown in the Deco ballroom of a Mayfair hotel – he referenced Russian illustrator Erte to create striking Twenties-inspired silhouettes and colorful, multi-layered prints echoing Erte’s fantastical illustrations.
“There’s nothing rooted  in reality here. Why can’t a fish have wings?” said Halpern, pointing to a print featuring leopard patterns mixed with illustrations of fish morphing into birds.
He wanted to flex his muscle beyond his signature sequin creations, applying his fantasy prints on voluminous duchesse satin coats; showcasing his draping skills with a series of more pared-down jersey maxi dresses in bright yellow or fuchsia; or playing with a striking gel organza fabric and working it into a draped minidress or a one-shoulder top featuring a long train.
Yet Halpern is not ready to completely let go of sequins just yet. In fact, he thinks he has “barely scratched the surface with what you can do with sequins.”
He sprinkled a healthy dose of sparkly creations here, renewing them by cutting

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Phoebe English Shows Fall 2019 Collection in Exhibition Alongside 30 Marionettes

EXHIBITIONIST: Phoebe English showcased pieces from her fall 2019 women’s wear offering at the Morley Gallery in South London at an exhibition called “Inanimate, Animate. (Only) Half the Reflection,” a show in two parts, the second of which features 30 charming marionettes wearing to-scale pieces from her archive.
The person-sized clothes, which made their debut during the men’s shows last month in a presentation, were suspended from the ceiling on rotating mechanisms that afforded close-up inspection of the intricate techniques that have earned her a loyal following.
There was a black pinafore dress with T-shaped cuts outlined with wide satin stitch embroidery, and a delicate white mesh harness.
“We call this coat, ‘The Coat of Dreams (and of Nightmares)’,” said English, fondly nodding to a black topper made from a great many patches of recycled black fabric, each piece encased in fine silk tulle. The kind of deceptively simple, thing that a cursory glance sets the mind to thinking, “Right, black coat” but an up-close eye-ball reveals all its complexities.
The space was scented by Timothy Han, who used the aromas of birch tar and dry wheat from his “On the Road” fragrance to emphasize English’s focus on natural sustainable fabrics, and Johanna Burnheart performed

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14 Early Presidents’ Day Sale Items to Buy Now

E-Comm, President's DayPresidents’ Day is a favorite for obvious reasons, but there’s a bonus reason we’re fans: the sales.
As with many other three-day weekend holidays comes a plethora of slashed…

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Kashiyama Rolling Out Made-to-Measure Concept in U.S.

NEW YORK — Onward Kashiyama, the Japanese conglomerate that owns Jil Sander, Joseph and J. Press, has come up with a novel way to introduce its new men’s made-to-measure suit concept to the U.S. market: open shops at WeWork locations.
The company launched Kashiyama the Smart Tailor in Japan at the end of 2017 and sold 59,000 suits, bringing in sales of $ 40 million its first year. Jun Murakami, president and chief executive officer of Onward USA and J. Press, is hoping to replicate that success in the U.S.
The brand’s point of differentiation, he said, is its price — suits start at $ 300 — as well as quick turnaround and manufacturing expertise. Kashiyama’s suits are made in a company-owned factory in China and can be produced and delivered to customers in 10 days.
Although the competition in affordable made-to-measure men’s wear is stiff in the U.S. with brands such as Indochino, Knot Standard, My Suit, Men’s Wearhouse and others already entrenched in the market, Murakami believes Kashiyama can find a niche.
“Most of our competitors are technology companies or new companies that don’t have an apparel background,” he said. “They don’t have the knowledge that we have.”
Onward Kashiyama was founded in 1927 and now

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