Nihl Men’s Spring 2019

In his New York show, Neil Grotzinger of Nihl, the LVMH Prize finalist, broke traditional rules of masculinity with a collection that centered around bending the rules of those in authority.
He took police officers, football players and Wall Street brokers and turned their wardrobes on their head by “exploring the qualities of borderline ephemerality and downright queerness,” according to the liner notes.

A clear example was a pair of football pants made from fine white silk he paired with a handmade chain mail tank top. An authentic crinkled painter’s tarp — black on one side, green on the other with drawstrings included — was reinterpreted as pants and a top.

Grotzinger’s use of elaborate embroidery techniques appeared as embellishments on several pieces, including the sleeves of sheer tops and a sliced-open basketball short.

The use of revealing cutouts and jock straps throughout the collection added a level of eroticism while enhancing the masculinity of the offering.

“The concepts of masculinity can be very restrictive and I like to break the conformity of that,” Grotzinger said.

In this debut, Grotzinger gained a lot of attention by breaking the rules — in the right way.

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Jahnkoy Men’s Spring 2019

Maria Jahnkoy, whose real name is Maria Kazakova, is Siberian and studied at Central Saint Martins and Parsons, has received a lot of support from the industry with her brand narrative, which is centered on preserving traditional craftsmanship and reworking it for a new generation.
She was shortlisted for the 2017 LVMH Prize and has found fans in consultant Julie Gilhart and Bruce Pask, the men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. Kazakova also has the support of Puma, Swarovski and the CFDA’s Elaine Gold Launch Pad program.
Her goal has always been to connect larger companies with local artisans, but with the extra help she’s been able to expand on that and bring more makers from Brooklyn and India into the mix. The show, which was more like a theatrical art project, was a collective effort as well. Titled “Deceived: No More,” the performance explored how the fashion industry impacts cultural identity. The presentation, which was choreographed by Nathan Trice, was broken up into three parts: chaos, unification and order. Much like her previous presentations, she made the runway mimic a chaotic city street that was dotted with orange cones and caution signs — one read “Separation is No

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Abasi Rosborough Men’s Spring 2019

In their sophomore showing during New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough explored a desert phantom theme that referenced a variety of vanishing cultures and tribes.
The design duo paraded a diverse range, from kimono-inspired jackets and coats and fitted cargo pants to Navajo-printed parkas. The color palette included deep burgundies and burnt orange that brought an Eastern sensibility to the forefront, while a flowing white section telegraphed the desert inspiration. “We even looked at ‘Lawrence of Arabia,’” Rosborough noted.
A wrinkled cotton hybrid poncho with matching head scarf and an ethereal topcoat in the same fabric also drove the desert theme home. Likewise, a Tencel linen that was frayed to look old — employed for bomber jackets and coats — reinforced that worn-in traveler vibe.
With this effort, Abasi Rosborough continues to make its mark in men’s fashion. “We’ve seen an exodus of big designers this week, but we look at it as an opportunity for new designers to step forward,” Rosborough said.

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Head of State Men’s Spring 2019

For his first runway show, Nigerian-born designer Taofeek Abijako, took inspiration from Afrofuturism and paraded a lineup with a distinct Seventies feel. 
Cue an array of high-waisted cropped and flared pants, fitted sweatshirts and message T-shirts.
The standouts were the flared pants, worn with matching boots, which gave it a New York Seventies vibe. 
Head of State is now part of Groupe, a distribution umbrella formed by James and Gwendolyn Jurney of Seize sur Vingt, which manages and nurtures independent designers and brands. Abijako was the first brand chosen, allowing him to focus strictly on creating the collection while Groupe provides the funding for samples and production.     

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Bode Men’s Spring 2019

Aaron Aujla, owner of Green River Project, a furniture and interiors firm, was Emily Bode’s primary reference point this season. She met Aujla in New York and they’ve previously worked together on other projects. (He’s created all of the furniture for Bode’s presentations.)
For her collection, Bode drew from Aujla’s lineage. His family is from India, but he grew up in British Columbia. Bode has always outsourced her embroidery and embellishment work in India, but this season she worked with more Indian textiles that had historical significance. She made suits from Khadi towels, an Indian fabric and developed another suit from India’s government subsidized mill prints.
Bode said the Khadi fabric has a connection to Mahatma Gandhi’s self-reliance movement, which urged Indians to bring weaving back into the home as opposed to buying these goods from other countries.
Highlights included a white fringed button-up shirt made of chenille, a pair of floral print high-waisted pants constructed from curtain fabric, and a bright yellow matching set printed with a village motif that consisted of a crepe de chine shirt and duchesse-satin pants.
The furniture was influenced by Indian filmmaker Satyajit Ray’s 1966 “Nayak,” which was filmed on a train, and each of the pieces were

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Ricardo Seco Men’s Spring 2019

The 50th anniversary of the Mexico City Olympics served as the jumping off point for Ricardo Seco’s spring men’s collection.

The designer used stripes and optical illusions along with the late Sixties font and Olympics rings to pay homage to the 1968 Games. These graphics showed up in bombers, T-shirts and track pants that Seco reimagined in bright colors or vibrant black and white.

More contemporary visual elements such as cell phones and skates were used as accents inside jackets while the current immigration crisis was referenced by large DACA lettering on T-shirts and socks. Seco also went back to the beginning of the Black Power movement by using the now-famous fist symbol on tops.

The overall vibe of the collection felt upbeat despite the political references.

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Reconstruct Collective Men’s Spring 2019

Reconstruct Collective, consisting of five female designers, began out of necessity. After learning that the Willem de Kooning Academy wasn’t able to put on a fashion show for its graduating class, students banded together to organize their own show. And in order to raise money for the show, they needed to form a business with the chamber of commerce. Because they worked so well together, Laura Aanen, Alyssa Groeneveld, Kim Kivits, Michelle Lievaart and Sanne Verkleij decided to start a collective shortly after graduating. Now three collections in, the Amsterdam-based company opted to show in New York, which Groeneveld said made sense for the brand, which caters to the youth.
For spring the unisex line was based on a fictional place called Planet Re-4 and the fictional characters that live there. The lineup, which Groeneveld said falls between streetwear and couture, was made up of reconstructions of sporty pieces. They presented cropped bubble vests and matching miniskirts, wide-leg nylon pants decorated with multiple drawstrings or reflective material, cropped tank tops with the Re-4 logo and jackets made from strips of fabric. The waistbands displayed a graphic Reconstruct logo. They also reconfigured Converse tracksuits and pieces from The New Originals, an Amsterdam-based

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Public School Men’s Spring 2019

Call it Public School part two.
On the final night of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, the streetwear-skewed brand held a party and presentation at a space on Howard Street in Chinatown with its theme kept under wraps until the doors opened.
“This is our space,” said Dao-Yi Chow, who designs the label with Maxwell Osborne. “This will be our first retail store and this is a soft launch of the space.”
Throughout the location were mannequins dressed in the new collection — although Chow said the description “needs an asterisk by ‘new.’ Everything is recycled, upcycled or dead stock,” he said, and is intended to represent our new philosophy.”
While the philosophy may be new, the lineup revisited the duo’s greatest hits.
They revisited collaborations with like-minded brands including Eileen Fisher, whose dead-stock silks became striped pajama-inspired ensembles; Levi’s, whose vintage denim was reworked into cropped trucker jackets, and Alpha Industries military fabrics made into sleek outerwear.
“It’s very much the foundation and our past and then looking into the future,” Osborne added.
The collection reflected that with a clear example being a supersharp black suit with built-in cargo pockets and statement zippers. A short-sleeve jumpsuit — also part of their DNA — was so elegant

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Todd Snyder Men’s Spring 2019

Todd Snyder closed New York Fashion Week: Men’s on a high note, sending out a feel-good collection full of bright colors and a youthful attitude that he titled “The American Tourist.”
“I played a lot with a mix of sartorial and campy references,” he said backstage before the show, where truffle popcorn and beer was served.
The opening look set the tone for the collection: a yellow T-shirt with a photo of a Waffle House that was taken by folk rocker Gerry Beckley of the group America. A series, all shot by the musician, are to make their debut for spring.
Snyder, the king of collaborations, unveiled other partnerships at the show including a line of terry-cloth bucket hats with Kangol, high-top tie-dye sneakers with Novesta, and perhaps the most striking, archival Hawaiian prints from Reyn Spooner that he used most successfully on an updated suit. “It’s the modern leisure suit,” he said.
His longtime partnership with Champion was also on display in bomber jackets, paneled sweatshirts and underwear. It even appeared as a side stripe on a plaid patterned suit.
Another play on the Americana theme came with the introduction of a new logo — “Snyder’s” in retro block letters — that he used

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Borgo de Nor Resort 2019

Borgo de Nor has quickly built a name and a dedicated following around its feminine dresses, with their long, flouncy silhouettes, bold colors and intriguing, surrealist prints.
For its latest resort offering the brand has taken a new direction, sprinkling some equally desirable separates to its offer and reworking some of its dresses for the colder months of the year.
Designers Carmen Borgonovo and Joana de Noronha said the aim was to offer more entry-level price points to their customer, as well as a new, see-now-buy-now element, coinciding with the collection’s retail drops in the winter months.
Signature maxi, ruffled silhouettes were reworked with higher necks and longer sleeves, while the prints – which remained bold and vibrant – were set against a darker color palette of deep reds, emerald greens and blues, evoking a new, autumnal mood.
The design duo continued to explore surrealist art to inspire its prints, producing floral patterns with a more lively spirit and a darker edge.
Among the highlights was an “orchid-leopard print” inspired by a self portrait of surrealist painter, dancer and photographer, Rosa Rolanda, who is pictured with an animal-print orchid on her head.
“When I saw this painting it inspired me to take the idea of a

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Romeo Hunte Men’s Spring 2019

Romeo Hunte didn’t make any friends in his men’s runway debut in New York. His choice of a site away from the other venues and the complete chaos in the lobby of the Dream Downtown Hotel with hundreds of people attempting to access elevators to get to the rooftop site was bad enough. The fact that his team couldn’t get its act together to start his show until nearly an hour after it was planned had everyone eyeing the exits before the first look came out.
Once the show finally started, it was clear that Hunte had an underwater sports adventure as his overriding theme. He used neoprene from diving wetsuits that he reimagined as performance vests in bright colors and cropped jackets with exaggerated necklines.

Camo prints in cargo pants and bombers and the use of safety orange enhanced the streetwear flair. But while the line showed some promise, there were several missteps, including poorly executed tailoring and some unfortunate sequined embellished sweatshirts. But apart from that, the collection was youthful and carefree.

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Death to Tennis Men’s Spring 2019

Summertime was the prevailing theme for William Watson and Vincent Oshin, the duo behind Death to Tennis. The designers, who are both British, were feeling nostalgic and a bit homesick so they looked to old beachside photographs to inform their lineup, which they said is one of their most colorful collections to date.
They leaned into the old and new, utilizing a color palette consisting of royal blue, purple, yellow, olive red and navy that brought to mind Ralph Lauren and Cross Colours from the Nineties.
These colors lent new life to core items such as graphic T-shirts, hoodies and the McCarthy jacket, which Justin Bieber popularized. They showed these signatures alongside cargo pants with minimal pockets, boxy button-up shirts, cotton parkas and shirt jackets. A long, hooded, colorblocked parka that grazed the ground was a standout.
The suit or matching set was another primary component. Models wore tracksuits, relaxed cotton suits and boxy shirts styled with slightly baggy pants. It was a nice take on tailored pieces that felt hip but not too trendy.
Death to Tennis is known for its original prints and this season it presented a camo pattern, a polo motif and a paint-splattered print.
Last season, the brand put on a

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Kenneth Nicholson Men’s Spring 2019

Kenneth Nicholson pulls from a varied bag of interests. The Houston native is as motivated by 18th-century dress as he is by outfits from “Soul Train” and military uniforms — after attending the Academy of Art in San Francisco, Nicholson spent a one-year stint in the Navy before he was honorably discharged. But his overall interest is in expanding the boundaries of men’s wear.
“Historically, men haven’t been restricted to just a shirt and pants. They’ve had more options,” Nicholson said. “I like to edify people and shake things up.”
He divided his collection into three chapters. The first chapter was a stark white, which Nicholson said was void of color to express sadness. Models wore cotton and linen long-sleeved shirtdresses with subtle swing hems, white lace shirts paired with cream high-waisted pants, and a brocade jacket with an exaggerated lapel coupled with a matching skirt. References to royalty were sprinkled throughout the lineup. Some models wore sashes, others wore crowns and a couple of the more structured, beaded looks with mock necks, nipped waists and peplums, which were highlights from the collection, brought to mind regalness.
The second chapter, which signaled better memories and featured more color, was the strongest. Nicholson doubled

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N. Hoolywood Men’s Spring 2019

This season, the N. Hoolywood designer Daisuke Obana delivered a lineup inspired by Native American artist T.C. Cannon, whose work he discovered during a recent trip to Arizona.
“The lines and the bold colors in the artist’s paintings were what drew me to them,” he said backstage, pointing to an array of blanket-like pieces, often paired with matching oversize shorts. This graphic inspiration was seen in everything from cropped bomber jackets and knitwear with fringe across the chest to oversize pants.
An added surprise was Obana’s collaboration with sportswear brand Umbro. It spanned logo T-shirts, long-sleeved soccer jerseys and elongated coats adorned with oversize Umbro logos done up in bright colors with vertical lines that tied back to Cannon’s paintings.
With their mix of deconstruction and surprising proportions, Obana’s Japanese silhouettes seamlessly blended the worlds of artisanal and active sport.

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Parke & Ronen Men’s Spring 2019

Leave it to Parke & Ronen to transport tired, hot New Yorkers to a beach in Malibu on a Tuesday afternoon in July.
“It’s all about L.A., baby,” said codesigner Parke Lutter backstage before the show.
He and Ronen Jehezkel trotted out a lovely array of pastel colors, floral prints and retro graphic stripes on swimwear, coverups and short-sleeve sweaters.
“We threw in a little Eighties vibe — we were listening to the Go-Go’s,” Lutter said, adding that the silhouette this season was classic but modernized with a little higher waist and more of a boxy feel.
The sheer shirts and pajama sets spoke of the leisurely lifestyle while the sleeveless hooded sweatshirts pushed a more athletic vibe.
With a soundtrack that included Lady Gaga’s “Boys, Boys, Boys” and Rod Stewart’s “Do You Think I’m Sexy,” Parke & Ronen proved that even after 21 years, they can still get a crowd energized while building on a successful business.

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Wood House Army Men’s Spring 2019

Since starting his brand two years ago, Julian Woodhouse, a former first lieutenant in the U.S. Army, and husband and codesigner Kirill Kabachenko have sought to create a uniform for their fashion army each season. This time around, the uniform was a mixture of Eighties BMX suits as well as a more-ethereal feel inspired by the rebirth of a phoenix.
The duo had spent two months in Asia and Woodhouse said the vision for the season came to him during a meditation.
The use of silk — a first for the brand — in airy parkas and ultralight cargo pants helped add a spiritual side to the collection while the motor racing references gave the lineup a tough edge.
The color palette of oranges and burnt reds together with the painterly phoenix print also combined to give an Eastern feel.
For its runway debut, Wood House Army’s mix of spirituality, athleticism and street edge proved to be a successful formula.

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Feng Chen Wang Men’s Spring 2019

Feng Chen Wang thought about the word “half” and what it means for human connection.
The show started with an opening of the curtains, which streamed sunlight into the dark space and emphasized the collection’s vivid color palette, which Wang said was meant to convey a range of human emotions.
The opening looks came in an icy blue gradient — sad — and progressed into an iridescent green and a warm hot pink — happy. Things ended with shades of black and gray, which Wang said played on black and white and the idea of half, or yin and yang.
The garments were amalgamations of sportswear basics. Wang placed double collars on long trenchcoats and pieced together two Levi’s jackets to make one. She did the same thing with Converse sneakers by adding an extra sole and merging two sneaker halves together. An extra leg was added to jeans and the more dramatic pieces consisted of collared shirts and trenchcoats that were draped on top of each other and fell down to the floor.
Some of these pieces revealed the heart, another means to depict feelings. Wang discovered that different sentiments lead to different body temperatures and she presented PVC pieces to highlight the

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Dyne Men’s Spring 2019

Christopher Bevans has become skillful at morphing super high-tech fabrics and performance designs with fashion silhouettes that reflect today’s trends. And that was especially evident in his spring presentation for Dyne, which he titled “Future Nomad.”
“We’re bringing our love of the outdoors in the Pacific Northwest to the city we grew up in,” said the New York-born designer.

His lineup included a hybrid trenchcoat/anorak with side zippers that looked light as a feather yet had all the necessary performance elements.

Other standouts included an ultralight navy suit with micro-cargo pockets on the sleeves that doubled as an embellishment.

“It’s all about survival skills,” he said.

The use of tie-dye — this season’s omnipresent print — in technical fabrics complemented the painterly abstract print used in paneling strips.

Bevans also stood out from others this season by embedding his well-known near-field communication chip into the garments and allowing the invited show guests to place orders on the spot for pieces from the spring line. “You can get it in four weeks,” he said, before he ships to retail stores in January.

With American fashion’s propensity for performance athleticism, Bevans has been able to find the sweet spot between that and contemporary fashion.

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Hugo Spring 2019

It’s always big news in Berlin when Hugo Boss decides to stage an event in the German capital during Fashion Week. Yet the decision to return with Hugo after a hiatus of seven years was primarily driven by the city itself. Not only was Berlin’s techno culture and “creative energy and eclectic street style” a key influence for the collection this season, but “with its very unique mix of fashion, art, music, literature and tech, it’s a good eco-system to take a brand like Hugo to the next level,” Boss chief executive officer Mark Langer told WWD prior to the show.
And what better place to do that than in the original home of techno, Motorwork, a gargantuan industrial space that Hugo transformed into a dark and gritty Nineties rave environment. The decade also figured strongly in the men’s and women’s looks on the runway, especially in terms of the prints based on ripped and collaged Rave posters or period album artwork, and the oversized, wide-shouldered, tailored silhouette for both genders derived from a Nineties Boss archive piece. However, that jacket and coat silhouette and baggy tailored pants were customized with DIY flair. Drawstrings were used to create new volumes and

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Zuhair Murad Resort 2019

Zuhair Murad embarked on a nautical theme while retaining his signature poetry and femininity, including a range of striking prints used across the collection.
With a stronger daywear focus incorporating a sprinkling of luxe ath-leisure pieces, he included nods to Captain Cook and sailor Corto Maltese, plus their discoveries of plants, Gauguin-esque colors and insects around the Southern Seas.
The most sartorial elements were navy blue or black-and-white outfits, like the sharp-shouldered jackets with tailored trousers and skirts. Shards of compass imagery decorated certain looks — in the form of beadwork and sequins on long black or white evening dresses. A bodysuit could be dressed down or up, and a jumpsuit had a sporty take.
These contrasted well with the fluid dresses with elegant patterns reminiscent of multicolored butterflies or hibiscus. Some standouts included the sweeping V-neck dress with pink, black and yellow embroidery evocative of pixilated butterfly wings and the shorter black-and-white dragonfly-like jacquard knit dress.
Fabrics such as leathers, metal cotton tweed and crepe de chine made appearances, too, adding an even wider reach to this rich collection.

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Calvin Klein 205W39NYC Resort 2019

Raf Simons’ playful exploration of Americana continued for resort, which was full of collegiate references, interesting silhouettes such as oversized shoulders and wider arching sleeves, knits, bold Pop and Technicolors, and technical fabrics like Neoprene. It marked the first time a Calvin Klein 205W39NYC resort collection was presented in Paris, shown in the brand’s new headquarters in the city. It’s a vast multifloor space, spanning 15,000 square feet, that was designed by Simons and his longtime collaborator, artist Sterling Ruby. Architectural design was done by Architecture Research Office of New York.
There was a fluidity to the collection, with mostly pieces that can easily be mixed and matched. Take the blue, red and white intarsia knit sweater with the navy marching band pants featuring graphic, colorful piping and cowboy boots; the silhouette pairing a sporty pink tank with a tie-dye accent and a yellow satin skirt with couture airs, or the pink bustier gown worn over a long green turtleneck dress with orange pumps made of basketball material. Men’s wear took a similarly democratic approach.
A vintage sleeping-baglike fabric was morphed into quilted outerwear, while some knitwear was crafted of found yarn. It’s all something old made into something new — on

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Andrew Gn Resort 2019

Andrew Gn wants to bring back black and white in an Internet age obsessed with color.
Like many designers, he has felt under pressure to use bright hues to make his outfits pop for online buyers. But what about those chic wardrobe staples like a white shirt and a little black dress? “It’s very tricky these days — anything which is visually uninteresting is not really salable online,” he said.
For his resort collection, Gn found a compromise of sorts: graphic black-and-white patterns inspired by the Vienna Secession art movement. A black dress with three-quarter-length sleeves featured the geometric motifs at the neckline and hem, while a day dress came in a deconstructed houndstooth print.
A checkerboard pattern was a recurring motif that translated into color, namely in a yellow-and-white cape dress embroidered with an oversized gold brooch motif. And there were still plenty of Instagram-friendly designs, including dresses in a charming narcissus print.
Still, Gn hopes the tide will turn back in favor of darkness.
“There’s only so many colors you can wear, and sometimes you feel safe and protected and more relaxed in black,” he mused. “I still think that black is a very essential part of the wardrobe, and I truly believe

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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Dundas RTW Spring 2019

“Urban, funky, jungle chic,” said Peter Dundas, who for spring combined dressy pieces with sporty fare, such as cropped hoodies bearing the brand’s black panther logo, or T-shirts.
The mood was full-on Eighties, from the Debbie Harry-inspired fringed biker jackets with zebra lapels to the bold-shouldered minidresses in a mix of animal prints, including a sequin camo mixed with black lace in a panther motif. Not forgetting a whole lotta gold.
The main silhouette was short, sexy and embellished with a couture feel that at times veered into outre territory. The faulty footwear — punky, strappy animal-print sandals inspired by a photo Dundas saw of Siouxsie Sioux — was distracting, with some of the models hobbling along the runway. (Granted, the label is still very young, with limited budgets, but bare feet would have worked better.)
Dévoré velvet, jacquard treatments and flocking were used to create the effect of a second layer on some of the dresses. “Like with the panther: when you look closer, it has spots,” Dundas explained.
There were some fun ideas, like the asymmetric, hot-hued satin dresses accessorized with black lace shorts and cropped asymmetric tops. A minidress in a blend of pink fringe and silver embroidery was also cute.
Sex

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Hermès Resort 2019

For resort, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski opted for a pure rendition of the label’s fluid silk and leather luxury universe, expressing it through a lineup of long, cinched dresses, loose trousers with high waists and trim leather shorts.
Eschewing patterns — save for the checks of seasons past, blown up this time — the designer stuck with a subdued palette of browns, greens and pale pastels. This she interrupted only occasionally with a flash of yellow or a vibrant orange, used for one of the bolder pieces she used to make a lace dress with tan leather accents — unmistakably Hermès.
Models traveled past bouquets of delicate dried wildflowers, down a runway strewn with specks of dry vegetation — something softer and lighter than straw; a tawny silver rather than yellow — carried along on their leather flip-flops with black soles or white-soled sandals, straps kept to a minimal.
In her exercise of boiling it down to the essentials — well, luxury essentials — Vanhee-Cybulski turned up some handsome results. Her show opened with one of the finest, a white jumpsuit, loose-legged but fitted on top with geometric panels cut out of the sides. Shoulder straps buttoned on the back, matching the ones that hugged

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Y’s Resort 2019

Some highlights of Y’s Pink label included a coat, dresses and blouses made in Cord Leavers lace, which is generally used only in haute couture, plus tie-dyed sweatshirts and sweatpants, and prints with a botanical theme such as cacti.
Within the Black label line, new for the resort season, were viscose robes, dresses and coats with floral prints made using ink-jet printers, but giving a nod to the “yuzen” dying technique for kimonos dating from the late 17th century.
As is tradition, the Black collection is also full of Y’s bestsellers reworked in either new colors or fabrics, and a handful of gabardine looks that were garment-dyed.
The expansive line, with something old and something new, makes for a lively offer.

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Ji Oh Resort 2019

The Salvation Army is where Ji Oh often finds inspiration for her collections. “You see all this stuff that’s cool but not your size,” she said. “I made it my size by playing with folds, gathering, buttons and tape that’s used in athleticwear.” Her resort collection was definitely not secondhand, but a deconstructed take on her signature shirting done in oversize proportions tucked, gathered and fitted into artful, but wearable shapes. As a whole, the collection was a bit disjointed, but there were covetable pieces to pick out. A roomy asymmetric button-down white shirt was cut to fall from the shoulders and gently folded along the buttons. Tailored men’s-inspired trenches had shoulder cutouts with buckle details and were feminized buy a long, lean cut. A painterly polka-dot shirt worn front to back captured a do-it-yourself spirit in a sophisticated way.

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Nehera Resort 2019

Nehera took to the mountains for resort, offering a reprieve from the frenzy of modern life with an oxygen-infused lineup of earthy-tinged elegance. A bright yellow pantsuit offered a splash of color, the suit jacket buttoned to one side, the front pocket slightly skewed. The same thick, flowing material was used for a long dress with long sleeves that hung past the wrist.
A feather-light cotton material, with thin, light padding, was used for a laced-up top; paired with short, white, lambskin trousers — a chic rendition of thick, wool mountaineer pants of the distant past. Other nods to the theme included thick-soled leather boots, a contemporary and urban version of the hiking boot, as well as patches with vintage versions of the label’s logo with a stylized Edelweiss flower, applied to a navy blue cotton sweater. Completing the outdoor theme was a handmade wicker-basket purse with leather straps, fisherman-style — pulled straight from the past, no adjustments made and rightly so.

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Christian Wijnants Resort 2019

The prints that formed the backbone of the Christian Wijnants resort collection were rich, adding texture to silhouettes that spoke with flow rather than volume.
“I wanted something very fresh, very colorful to have bright colors, to have a mix of colors,” explained the designer, who suspects his recent trip to Japan served as a subtle influence. He found it surprising how Japanese mix warm and cold tones and sought to experiment more with colors himself. The result was an array of atypical but compelling combinations — a pale blue and reddish brown worked especially well together.
In a busier example, he piled on layers of colored patterns. The base was a loose, buttoned-up dress with a stylized flower print — blue on white. Next came the scarf, in a light salmon tone, tied around the waist, and on top, a long, green coat in an animal-like print, but not much different from the original flowers. Finishing off the look, a pair of yellow gloves rose past the elbow.
Gloves were a highlight, adding a shiny accent, and also came in brown and a bright, pale blue. When it came to solid black, used for simply cut tops and trousers, loose and wide, the

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Stella Jean Resort 2019

Flamboyant, colorful and a bit extravagant. The resort season was all about a joyful and happy mood at Stella Jean.
The designer delivered a cute collection featuring a charming balance between masculine and feminine elements.
Mannish suits and workwear-inspired overalls were embellished with unexpected details, such as fringed trimmings and patches of embroidered parrots, while the hyper feminine midi dresses were crafted from mannish striped shirting fabrics.
An energetic Hawaiian tropical pattern developed in different colors was splashed on lightweight robe coats, slightly flared pants and wrap frocks, while a geometric attitude was introduced in the collection via macro gingham cotton used for both logo camp shirts, skirt suits infused with a certain Western feel, as well as chic short jackets matched with flared skirts.
The charming and summery lineup was completed by bijoux developed in collaboration with Italian brand Rosantica and Philippe Model’s cool fringed and beaded sneakers.

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Rachel Zoe Resort 2019

In the seven years since founding her namesake advanced contemporary collection, stylist/designer/media mogul Rachel Zoe hasn’t strayed from her original MO of providing career-girl-meets-party-girl clothes to the aspirational Millennial customer.
She’s succeeded at melding her own boho-meets-Old Hollywood style (with numerous homages to her idol Tom Ford), all the while honing the quality/perceived value balance necessary for the contemporary category (taking her line in-house after its initial Global Brands Group licensing model was a good move).
For resort, her favorite season, Zoe upped her fabric game, playing with black feather-printed fil coupe with gold accents for off-the-shoulder maxidresses and tops and a silver and black snow leopard-printed taffeta for evening suits. Metallics took on a new breadth, because “for me, metallic is, like, its own color group,” she said.
Each successive Rachel Zoe collection sees new iterations of the Seventies-inspired pantsuit, and this season’s inspired tuxedo dressing included double-breasted white bridal alternatives, some piped in rhinestones or tonal chiffon, liquid sequined versions, as well as double-layered-lapel black crepe with white piping that looked and felt rich. In addition to her signature “Rachel” flare trousers, Zoe played with wider-leg and cropped tomboy options.
“I know my girl may not be buying or wearing a full

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Dondup Resort 2019

For its resort collection, the design team at Dondup drew on the house’s denim expertise to build a lineup of fresh silhouettes with a safari flavor. Jeans were pushed slightly into ath-leisure territory, in a show of confidence from a label that has established authority in the denim department. The wide reach of colors included acid washes and a bright green khaki, which was used to fashion a pair of loose, cropped jeans with one pleat in the middle of each side.
Jungle patterns appeared on cinched dresses and a dressy jacket and shorts combination — also cinched, but with pockets. For shine, the label offered lightweight track suit bottoms, hugged at the waist and ankles by drawstrings. There was a jacket in the same material hung straight to the thighs, sleeves pushed over the elbows — fitting the unique style offered by the upscale and cosmopolitan Italian label.
Anchored with a flagship store in Milan on Via della Spiga, Dondup expanded its web site last year and is gearing up for development abroad.
 

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Top 10 candidates for the 2019 Hockey Hall of Fame class

Following this week’s Hall of Fame induction announcements, we take a look at who is on deck for next year’s class.
www.espn.com – NHL

Krizia Resort 2019

Milan in the Eighties, which served as the effervescent background for the success of the Krizia brand, inspired the label’s resort collection.
In particular, an archival print dating back to 1979 featuring sensual women’s legs, which was splashed on a silk top matched with coordinated pants, perfectly embodied the playful and hedonist spirit of that decade.
At the same time, Krizia’s signature animal motifs were revamped to pepper both fluid blouses and dresses and casual jeans, as well as the intarsia knits, spanning from tops and sweaters to fitted pencil skirts.
The brand’s signature sartorial heritage reflected in the impeccable suits, while Lurex, another brand’s must-have, was crafted from a silver column dress worn with a matching bra.
An homage to Krizia’s founder Mariuccia Mandelli, who was known for her volcanic temperament, a macramé lace featuring the wording “Krazy Krizia” was used for a feminine skirt and a pair of joggers — two go-to pieces for the brand’s most loyal aficionados.

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Robert de Niro, Lupita Nyong’o, Pink Among 2019 Walk of Fame Honorees

The Hollywood Chamber of Commerce announced the Walk of Fame Class of 2019 on Monday. For film honors, Alan Arkin, Kristen Bell, Daniel Craig, Robert De Niro, Guillermo del Toro, Anne Hathaway, Lupita Nyong’o, Tyler Perry, and Gena Rowlands were selected. In the television category, Alvin and the Chipmunks, Candice Bergen, Guy Fieri, Terrence Howard, Stacy Keach, […]

Variety

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Ludovic de Saint Sernin Men’s Spring 2019

Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s spring collection, the third for his label, was called “Summertime Sadness,” meant to evoke a teen’s melancholy upon leaving a beautiful holiday with an unrequited crush.
The sensual, tight lineup of well-crafted androgynous silhouettes was made of fabrics the designer sourced in Japan. Highlights included a cropped light blue denim jacket with matching low-slung lace-up jeans, a coral-color fluid blouse and trousers, and a black strapless top with languid pants.
De Saint Sernin riffed on his best-selling eyelet briefs for a bralette, and accessorized the line with ceramic charms.
“Most of the collection sells to women,” said the designer, who was a finalist for this year’s LVMH Prize. “I was very niche, this young designer starting out in Paris. And it just put a light on me that was very amazing. I’m super grateful.”
There’s little doubt that the spotlight will keep intensifying.

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Way-too-early top-10 rankings for the 2019 draft

Jack Hughes sure seems like the top pick, but who else makes the early top 10 for next year’s draft?
www.espn.com – NHL

Kenzo Men’s Spring 2019

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have turned their performance presentations for Kenzo into something of a tradition. Their coed spring show was no exception, with floral suspensions, a brass band and a laser light show transforming the basement of the Maison de la Mutualité conference center into a magic grotto.
Unfortunately, the clothes they showed didn’t live up to the setting. The brand’s aesthetic, once synonymous with jungle prints and Asian references, has skewed increasingly eclectic of late, with kitschy cool designs that reference the designers’ Californian upbringing.
This lineup was ostensibly informed by summer ceremonies: “gatherings of all sorts and the jubilation of rituals, occasions where New-Romantic hedonists meet British wedding goers and all the in-betweens,” the duo said in their show notes.
Perhaps it was the time slot — the last show on the last day of a marathon men’s fashion week in Paris — but it was hard to pinpoint even a trace of that theme, except for the graphic rose pattern that was a recurrent motif.
Rather, the men’s lineup revolved around a sporty silhouette grounded in acid-bright colors and oversized volumes. A vibrant blue suit with extra-large drawstring pants was paired with a trompe-l’oeil T-shirt depicting an open shirt

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Clot Men’s Spring 2019

Clot pulled the cool crowd – the likes of Don Crawley, Sacai’s Chitose Abe and Francesco Ragazzi from Palm Angels – for its latest Paris presentation in the city’s Marais district.  The design duo installed a series of makeshift stands and food stalls to approximate the atmosphere of the iconic Temple and Market streets in Hong Kong’s Kowloon district.
Edison Chen said he and his partner Kevin Poon are scouting a permanent retail space in Paris. “Our L.A. store is opening in two weeks and then we have Paris, Tokyo, New York and San Francisco,” he said.
The Hong Kong-based streetwear label, which this year is celebrating its 15th anniversary, presented updates on its “bread and butter” – silk pajamas in their own prints. “Obviously, we’re Chinese, so the DNA of us is wearing stuff like this,” said Chen.
Also on display was their new T-shirt collection with reworked Asian icons and graphics including a “mind, body and soul” print; travel bags designed in collaboration with Readymade; and a capsule of pieces in custom-made fabrics including military-inspired jackets in a mix of camo and stripes.
Clot also presented a capsule by Pauly Bonomelli, the Australian artist who rose to fashion fame making custom clothing

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Ann Demeulemeester Men’s Spring 2019

A romantic vibe infused this full-on coed, gender-bending collection filled with loose garments, black flowers and veiled straw hats. It also juxtaposed fabrics, such as silk, lace, linen and leather in breezy silhouettes, and injected hues like pink into Ann Demeulemeester’s traditionally black-and-white color code.
The brand’s creative director Sébastien Munier said he had in mind symbolism, which was birthed in the 19th century when artists pushed back against the industrial revolution.
“Some dreamers, like poets, wanted to express a certain beauty, a certain decadence,” he said, citing in particular the French painter Odilon Redon, whose work was filled with symbolism, and the main character in Joris-Karl Huysmans’ book “À rebours” — a reclusive aesthete and antihero.
It was this extreme idea of beauty that Munier wanted to channel, and it entailed contrasts. Of the spring collection he said: “It is a mix of poor fabric and very rich fabric, and there is a kind of clash in between.” Take for instance the loose white shirt overlayed with a black lace top.
Striped silk, generally used for linings, peaked out from trouser legs or became the main fabric of suiting and shorts, for an inside-out effect.
Genders fused, as a male model sported a knee-length pink

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2019 BMW X2: Like a Mini Cooper, but Better

The new BMW X2 is a mechanical twin of the Mini Cooper Countryman, but with the best cabin innards in its class and a fabulous, inimitable BMW engine. Dan Neil argues its superiority.
WSJ.com: Lifestyle

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Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Spring 2019

Boris Bidjan Saberi brushed away the superfluous with his spring collection, training his sights — and design skills — on clothing in its purest forms. With achromatopsia in mind, an unpronounceable term for colorblindness, he worked a palette reduced to tones of grays, blacks and whites. The setting? A raw cement venue. In this pared-down universe, Bidjan Saberi showed what he could do — an awful lot.
Starting with the simplest silhouette, the first look was, in his words, “just a shirt with a back seam, that’s it, just the width of the fabric.” Two long streams of matte, black ribbon — he called it tape — trailed behind. This was what he used to cover seams.
Black coats were outlined by this seam-covering fabric tape, adding a new dimension as well as the optical illusion of something like leather panels. Sleeves were slit open and left to hang over the arms, for a cape-like effect — very cool. Shirts were long, almost becoming dresses, while pants were often short. A long, chunky knit sweater — though less chunky than in springs past — stretched below the knees.
He introduced a new accessory — not a backpack, because it could be worn in

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Walter Van Beirendonck Men’s Spring 2019

Walter Van Beirendonck titled his quirky collection for spring Wild Is the Wind, and wild it was — with skeleton, donkey and bird prints, V signs for peace, clogs and slogans like “Trans Human,” “Hell to the Liars” and “Riot!” Often a man with a message, many of the Belgian designer’s trademarks popped up again this season.
Deconstruction, for instance, abounded, starting with the first look that included a skimpy vest made of lemon-yellow webbing and patches. One featured an imaginary polka-dotted creature with the words “loving the alien” and another read: “It’s only a story/it’s not real/don’t Worry/there IS a happy ENDING.”
The webbing, bringing to mind fetishism, workmen’s garb and streetwear, decorated many garments. And often that was blended with more sartorial elements. Take, for example, the checkered suit featuring orange webbing.
In hallmark Van Beirendonck style, every piece was finely crafted, with standouts including outerwear, such as raincoats, suit jackets and bombers. Sometimes, though, the riot of prints, patterns and colorblocking stole the show.

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Spirit Animals Converge at Valentino Spring 2019 Men’s Show

ANIMAL MAGNETISM: Valentino’s front row was a veritable jungle, crawling with animals in body — and in spirit. Pierpaolo Piccioli asked four famous friends of the house — A$ AP Ferg, Nas, Keith Ape and Syd tha Kyd — to reveal their spirit animal, and he used the beasts as motifs on clothing and accessories in the patterned, logo-ed and color-packed men’s collection.
“My spirit is the black panther — a strong, fast, powerful animal,” said A$ AP Ferg, who certainly stood out in the crowd on Wednesday afternoon. He was wearing a canary yellow suit and bedecked in diamonds from his front teeth down to his wrists and fingers.
“I change them every time I change my outfits,” said the musician of the sparkling crowns on his teeth. “They’re white gold with diamonds. I was going to go for yellow gold, to match my outfit, but then decided against it.”
He said he’s been working with Tiffany & Co. on jewelry, such as pendants and bracelets, and is also getting to work on a new album with a “huge producer, who the world loves,” although he wouldn’t give up the name.
“I’m a lion, I rule the jungle,” said fellow front-row guest Nas, who has

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David Koma Resort 2019

Like many others, David Koma has been influenced by the Eighties resurgence that’s been making waves on the catwalks and shop floors alike.
But the London-based designer managed to stand out in his interpretation of the hugely popular decade, making it his own by blending subtle Eighties references — a puff sleeve here, a crystal-embellished zip there — with his signature graphic lines and flair for modernism.
The result was a collection filled with desirable pieces that had the glamour and drama of the past and the sense of ease that speaks to today’s consumer.
Inspired by Helmut Newton’s swimwear photographs, Koma re-created his popular minidresses with curved, sporty necklines and ultra-thin shoulder straps. He also added a generous dose of sparkle with oversize crystals, silver sequins and Plexiglass. Heavy embellishment can be dangerous territory, but by keeping a monochromatic color palette and using the crystals or sequins to create graphic lines, Koma maintained a fresh, modern look.
Among the standouts were a white one-shouldered gown featuring a flashy sequinned side panel that aims to highlight the body, a black-and-white tuxedo dress with puffed silk-organza sleeves and black minidresses mixing graphic cutouts and soft draping.
Elsewhere, Koma continued to play with contrasts in a series

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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Dondup Men’s Spring 2019

Urban trekking was the theme at Dondup, as the design team added a utilitarian twist to men’s citywear clothing, experimenting with materials in a shift from technical performance for a collection that was casual with a touch of sportswear. One example was the checked, boxy field jacket with a glass-like coating, which added brilliancy to the colors. The poplin, deconstructed suit was paired with a hooded shirt in chambray, in a nod to ath-leisure.
Dondup reedited its storied Tyvek material from the Fifties with an iridescent effect and a laminated texture used on a raincoat and a maxi fanny pack. Sweatshirts were treated to have a spongy effect and a leather jacket was in Naplak, a lacquered napa generally used in footwear. Colors ranged from royal blue to lime, as well as earthy tones and black.
Denim was done in classic shapes in pure vintage and black, or with chalk coatings. The material used for denim labels, called Jacron, was employed in garment-dyed accessories, such as the green backpack.

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Prada Men’s Spring 2019

Prada’s been splashing the euros: Earlier this month it opened a whizz-bang new industrial complex in Tuscany — and more are on the way — so the brand has got to sell, sell, sell. The collection that Miuccia Prada showed Sunday evening underlined that: The clothes may have been connected in spirit to the women’s resort, but this collection was more about commerce than anything else.
Prada said she was seeking a “more elegant” style for her man, something youthful yet discreet, adding that she’s fed up with baggy sportswear and streetwear. “The silhouette is very lean, clean and elegant,” she said before the show. “I’ve put a lot of different pieces together — serious ones, fun ones, all sorts — but the goal was to construct, to define a youthful, contemporary elegance. They’re simple pieces, and I wanted them to make sense.”
She took a similar tack with the accessories, which ranged from nylon sacks with drawstring ties to big leather weekenders and smaller shoulder bags. Models held them with an iron grip over one shoulder as if to say, “No one’s snatching this Prada, baby,” as they walked past guests who were perched on big, transparent inflatable cubes, a special reedition of

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Neil Barrett Men’s Spring 2019

In an adventurous, sea and surf-faring mood, Neil Barrett, who has a thing about male uniforms, set out to explore the notion of contemporary masculinity, with the collection’s emblem a Hawaiian-style flower that was never girly.
The designer worked photographic treatments of anemones onto utilitarian macs, T-shirts and sweatshirts, placing them at the breast and shoulder in place of military emblems and medals.
Some of the prints had a strong Pop Art feel, others came graphically sliced, with shadowy black prints of the flowers staining a range of looks. But mainly it added a surf vibe, opening the gates for a strong water-sport theme.
Barrett in this highly wearable collection mixed his usual color palette of sand, beige, navy, gray and black with bright colors associated with surfwear.
His signature Nineties aesthetic was intact, folding in scuba underlayers and jackets inspired by the hi-tech dry suits worn by deep sea divers. The cut of the trenches, with their dropped shoulders and rounded shapes, were even based on their lines.
The designer sprinkled in sure-sell cargo pants cut like joggers, and cool dressier looks, like a gray tux with a Nineties fit.
Moving between urban and sportswear moods, the outerwear was ever strong and plentiful, with the

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Vionnet Resort 2019

“A shotgun wedding between Memphis and Vionnet” is how creative director Goga Ashkenazi described her resort collection. The colors and patterns of the Eighties’ iconic Milanese art movement were combined with the brand’s signature elegant silhouettes and precious materials.
A graphic leopard motif was printed on the satin inserts of a draped minidress with squared shoulders inspired by a Vionnet’s archival design, as well as on a shirt worn over an embroidered bra and tucked into a plissé skirt.
A hot-pink accessory in the shape of a long vest’s lapel created a tromp l’oeil effect on a T-shirt and a pair of wide-leg pants in a viscose splashed with a net-like graphic. This also came printed in a micro version on a pretty draped silk dress revealing a playful print of white tennis balls, which also peppered a fluid jumpsuit with a drawstring at the waist.
Quintessentially Vionnet, a rage of lightweight chic gowns, showing graphic colorblocking, featured the house’s signature draping and bias cuts.

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M.Patmos Resort 2019

In November, Marcia Patmos was named one of five finalists for the 2018 CFDA + Lexus Fashion Initiative. This initiative, which runs through the end of the month, is to aid designers on sustainability through workshops and mentorship. It culminates with a Lexus Grand Prize of $ 80,000 given to the brand with the most innovative, strategic and impactful sustainable blueprint for the future. Patmos took a deep dive into her supply chain, which resulted into new techniques and ideas for her strong resort collection.
Patmos’ ready-to-wear is the kind you want to lounge around or wrap yourself in. For resort, she offered an organic cotton cardigan with a suri alpaca knitted collar that mimicked the appearance of fur; machine-knitted dresses and tops; organic cotton and upcycled pima cotton mixed sweaters made from a knit-weaving technique; double gauze blush and cream dresses, and cashmere sweaters from Nepal. When it came to sustainability and responsibility, every detail was considered, like adorable knit waist or crossbody bags made from recycled plastic water bottles to hints of woven metallic threads from upcycled fabrics.

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Ulla Johnson Resort 2019

Coming off a 20-year anniversary milestone, Ulla Johnson keeps on rolling. She recently traveled to Brazil to check on the intricately hand-woven shoes and bags she used in resort as an artisanal element to finish off feminine looks. São Paulo proved inspirational for its balance of modern architecture, culture and wilderness, leading Johnson to explore a meeting place of structure and ease in her signature bohemian romance.
She turned to the work of Hilma af Klint, an abstract painter in the 20th century, whose art employed a bold use of color, geometry and floral motifs. It inspired the exuberant palette of poppy yellow, red, magenta and lavender, as well as the floral patterns of ruffle-adorned dresses and opulent embroidery. A standout dress, made in India, for instance, featured paneling that took eight hours to embroider, handmade crochet trim and flower tassel, and handfinishing that makes it an emotional buy, and a keepsake that’ll last more than a season. Almost all the prints this season were shown on the reverse for a lived-in, time-honored effect. Customers will appreciate the fringy handknits woven in Peru and other hand-braided, hand-woven bags made in the Philippines and Spain.
She steered silhouettes to be soft and structured,

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Blindness Men’s Spring 2019

In a number of ways, the story told in Blindness’ spring collection was of the age-old girl-meets-boy variety.
Exploring the theme of first love, designers Kyu Shin and Ji Park siphoned the maelstrom of emotions triggered by falling in love for the first time into a romantic collection that cleverly riffed on its theme and took the nonbinary trend to new levels of sophistication and drama.
They gracefully intermingled masculine and feminine codes, borrowing details from ultra-manly military dress and elevating them with archly feminine touches. Army great coats were reincarnated in organza, with OTT frills appliquéd across the yoke and hem; a plaid-backed trench came with a scarf of organza ruffles; a frilled Inverness cape (see Sherlock Holmes) had a pretty floral-print capelet and lining, and tough denim sailor pants were worn with a soft blue tie-neck silk shirt.
This being a brand strong on gender fluidity, there were sheer black gowns, a full-length tartan dress, pie crust collars tied around necks, sheer hunting vests, leg of mutton sleeves on the suiting, and studded leather corsetry worn over elaborately cut striped shirts and frilly blouses. In all,
The charming, pearl-embellished eye masks worn by some models were a clever wink at their brand’s

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Caroline Constas RTW Resort 2019

“What is she wearing to prepare for the holidays? What is she packing to spend New Year’s in Mexico?” Caroline Constas asked herself when designing her latest resort collection. The designer, who normally debuts a traditional resortwear collection for the season decided to introduce a new, sassy, “holiday takeaway” selection of ready-to-wear that mixed well with her feminine, lifestyle attire. Sequined looks, like white minidresses paired over matching trousers or a blue and white striped set with sequined top and silk skirt made for super-fun new additions alongside updated floral and leaf-printed easy dresses and blouses. For resort, Constas took one of her best-selling blouses with billowy sleeves and made it into a full-length gown in a burnt orange giraffe print. The print was carried over into a great knot-front bikini with sleek caftan. Whether it was a multicolored sequin party dress, smocked and ruffled daytime dress or a new stretch crepe floor-length blue and white floral dress that could go either way, her range for resort held a fresh, playful spirit.

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New York Men’s Dates to Move to June in 2019

Don’t get too attached to the July dates for New York Fashion Week: Men’s — they’re changing.
Starting next year, the Council of Fashion Designers of America will shift the dates for the spring men’s shows to the first week in June. This will not only coincide with the fledgling New York women’s resort season, but will also allow American designers to show before their European counterparts.
London has historically kicked off the spring season with shows that start this year on Saturday. That’s followed by Pitti Uomo in Florence, Milan and Paris. For six seasons, NYFW: Men’s has brought up the rear with shows in mid-July.
But a successful mega, 10-day, dual-gender fashion week this past February has prompted the shift starting in 2019.
“The July timing is problematic for a lot of brands,” said Mark Beckham, vice president of marketing for the Council of Fashion Designers of America. “So this will be the last NYFW: Men’s in July.”
In February, he said, the men’s shows will once again be timed to run on the Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday before the women’s calendar starts on Thursday. ”It worked really well,” he said. But the spring shows will now start before London.
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A-Cold-Wall Men’s Spring 2019

Samuel Ross’ brand A-Cold-Wall is continually seeking to expand the fashion vernacular by playing with new proportions and alternative ideas of beauty. Ross’ latest collection was presented as an immersive performance at the Old Truman Brewery that was conceptual — but not necessarily accessible.
Guests were advised to put on protective goggles, masks and earplugs monogrammed with the brand’s acronym that were handed out at the door. Wind turbines and haze created a doomed, dystopian atmosphere, and the show began with a group of actors wearing hooded smocks and chalk-painted skin storming down the runway. Models showcasing the collection followed.
Utilitarian sportswear has been the foundation of the brand and this season, Ross purged it of its traditional aesthetic. He took the basis of sportswear, deconstructed it and morphed each piece into new silhouettes. Included were cropped outerwear in thick layers of transparent PVC paired with pouches that wrapped across the bodies. Puffy vests were deconstructed and held together by seatbelt webbing and clip closures. He did the same with down jackets, which he dissected and laced back together with metallic silver leather with asymmetric sleeves, and cargo shorts and pants featured oversized pockets that distorted the silhouette.
“It’s really art,” Ross said

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Matthew Miller Men’s Spring 2019

When K-Swiss, the California-based footwear brand, approached Matthew Miller wanting to work on a collaboration, he had one condition: The resulting ready-to-wear had to be made using the technology he’d recently discovered that could turn garments destined for the landfill into new fabric.
“I discovered this (recycling) tech, but as a small designer, I wasn’t big enough to utilize it because it’s hydro-powered and we had to do a certain amount of (volume) to make it environmentally viable,” said Miller. Around the same time, he came upon a cache of about 10,000 band T-shirts that were destined for the landfill.
They were later funneled into the K-Swiss collaboration, a streetwear collection of mostly tracksuits and Ts that appeared on the catwalk along with the designer’s signature line.
For the main collection, Miller mined his background as a frequent flier at some of Britain’s most renowned late-Nineties clubs. “I wanted it to feel like an underground movement, almost like what a club scene would have been like 20 years ago, where you get all these different characters. But they’re all into one thing — the music or the scene,” he said.
Those ideas translated into a confident collection that felt more upbeat than previous seasons, with pops of neon or

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Nicole Miller Resort 2019

“I always feel like resort is such a confusing season and that’s how the collection is…it’s abstract art: jumbled up stripes, jumbled up prints, jumbled up textures,” noted Nicole Miller during the look book shoot of her resort collection. Miller tapped model, singer and blogger Natalie Lim Suarez for the collection of mismatched abstract prints with athletic touches. 
Categories of prints included graphic stripes of varying widths, an abstract painterly print and graphic textual “don’t grab” that were developed as drawings on silks and embroidered into white organza. The prints were rendered onto silky button ups as well. All together it was dizzying, but at times, the prints made for nice contrasts against each other. For instance, Miller’s “Don’t Grab” silk printed slip and sheer organza T-shirt made for an interesting contrast of wordplay and textures when layered together. Less jumbled standouts of the collection included an athletic-striped, double-faced, ribbed knit hoodie paired with a pleated skirt with asymmetrical hem. Both the athletic stripe and “Don’t Grab” print were ideas expanded upon from prior seasons’ details. 

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Simon Miller RTW Spring 2019

For American sportswear label Simon Miller, fewer pastimes are as American as race car driving. Designers Chelsea Hansford and Daniel Corrigan cited iconic late Sixties, early Seventies drag racers Steve McQueen, “Jungle” Jim Liberman and his backing partner, “Jungle Pam,” for inspiration into spring. “The looks she would wear to the tracks were the craziest,” Corrigan noted at a preview. “That’s the mood of the collection.”
They even shot the look book along a 1953 raceway, telling the story of driving through the mountains while flowers are blooming and ice is melting.
The theme led to neon jackets in crackled leather that referenced torn asphalt, techy sport separates, poppy floral prints and a big push on denim that included a new “013” high-rise slim crop fit. The brand is denim at heart, and ever since Hansford joined Corrigan in Los Angeles last year, it’s been given newfound attention. It’s also partly why the brand has switched to a June spring model; they’ll be able to show resort and spring together while traveling to New York less.
A colorful tire track print found on denim twinsets pulled together the season’s palette of sunny yellow, orange, red and blue. A sense of playfulness underscored saturated

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Anna Sui Resort 2019

“It’s such a tough climate right now and I thought ‘What are we going to do?’ and all I could think was, ‘Let’s do our favorite things,’” said Anna Sui, discussing the direction of her resort collection. The climate might be tough, but after 30-plus years in business, Sui has a lot of favorite things to celebrate. She mined her archive and reworked prints from seasons past, like her Valentine print from her spring 2007 “pirate collection,” because as she put it, “who doesn’t love a heart!” Loose dresses, flowy tops and sheer cover-ups came in a purple adaptation of a ballet print, originally designed with illustrator Jeffrey Fulvimari, from Sui’s spring 1994 “punk babydoll” collection.
Sui, who recently moved into a new studio space, focused on soft pieces — a sweet spot for her business — like simple pretty dresses, skirts and blouses, but they came in a host of new colorful red, green and purple prints meant to be worn mixed up to create unexpected combinations. But she also included pieces for her customer to layer, such as floral print robes with lace heart details; leopard jacquard pants; colorful bowling shirtdresses in her signature cherry pattern, and brightly colored pleated

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Badgley Mischka Resort 2019

Mark Badgley and James Mischka drew inspiration for their resort collection from the Mexican Riviera. “We spent time in both Acapulco and Playa del Carmen. We did a fashion show in Monterrey, Mexico, with one of our customers and saw how they vacationed and entertained each other, and their beautiful beach homes and country clubs and that sort of inspired our girls.”
The collection featured hand-painted flowers attached to many pieces. There was a playful evening dress in blood red with a necktie and flowers with pearls inside attached. There was also a chic black evening dress with princess sleeves. Another standout included a white belted jumpsuit with jewels cascading down the neckline. There were cutaway dresses, strong coatdresses and caftan dresses. The designers are continuing to show a combination of couture, eveningwear and their take on sportswear.

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Red Valentino Resort 2019

Inspired by the George Méliès 1902 film “A Trip to the Moon,” Pierpaolo Piccioli worked with a lunar theme for Red Valentino’s resort collection that resulted in a distinctly playful romantic offering with a hint of edge.
Piccioli’s range had phases that included sporty pieces like a white and red parka, varsity jacket with celestial patches, embellished track jackets, knits with cryptographic coded notes with nods to NASA and blue mesh accordion pleat skirting. He leveraged the sporty pieces with a graphic black-and-white moon phase printed sheer dress shown with a simple white tank, mock neck plissé sheer tops, dresses with a single shoulder tied in a short bow and a blush floral macramé jacket. A lightweight technical cargo pant was a standout and came in a variety of fabric iterations, including one in black leather.
For accessories, Piccioli made a case for edgy kitten-heeled booties, some with star details and spiked bows and a clear PVC cross-body bag covered in silver studs. Piccioli also upped his sneaker game and added a ballet twist, introducing a double-soled sneaker with black ribbon lace-up details in blush and in black with rhinestone stud details.

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Alejandra Alonso Rojas Resort 2019

Alejandra Alonso Rojas looked to Spain’s Andalucía to inform her beautifully demure resort collection. Specifically, she looked to the region’s vibrant carnations, jasmine flowers and bougainvillea (thorny vines with flower-like leaves), resulting in seven custom prints splashed on pajama-like suiting and romantic summery dresses. The designer often draws from her heritage, injecting personal references from family portraits and heirlooms, such as her family crest found on buttons.
The collection was a medley of alluring minimalism. References aside, silhouettes maintained clean lines that accentuated the body, elegant silhouettes and signature handknits. There was a variety of weight, too, as she’s opted to combine resort and spring so product can sit on the sales floor longer; she’ll let stores decide how to break up cottons, silks, shearlings and leathers into different deliveries.
There was more knitwear than ever, now with an emphasis on sustainability. The designer used recycled cashmere across 12 colors to create artisanal hand-crochet patchwork dresses and separates, multicolored sweaters and a chunky oversize cardigan that was surprisingly lightweight. In fact, roughly 30 percent of the collection utilized recycled materials.
Other highlights included the expansion of eveningwear (red goddess gowns and fluid white separates) and leathers she treated like wovens (one with a

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Veronica Beard RTW Resort 2019

Casual polish is the endgame at Veronica Beard, where sisters-in-law Veronica Miele Beard and Veronica Swanson Beard update American classics with novelty and, for resort, athletic undertones. They looked to the glamour and sexual femininity of the Eighties and early Nineties, delivering a blend of tailoring this season set against casual sportswear and colorful prints.
Elevated takes on suiting included an off-the-shoulder blazer styled with a multichain belt (which, really, would add considerable edge to any outfit) and a red blazer featuring the designers’ take on the double-breasted silhouette. Leather suiting and twinsets with detachable gold chains leaned heavily toward the Eighties, but were toned down with graphic “Veronica” Ts and track-inspired techno knit pants with great recovery.
There was also novelty. To wit: Bold plaids, scarf prints and engineered florals provided a playful visual element while denim featured crystal buttons. The designers also reworked classics like the trenchcoat into a cropped style with athletic stripes, a reversible version with plaid fabric, and into one of their signature dickeys.
With the anticipated opening of two more brick-and-mortar stores by the end of this year, the designers will need to offer as many dickey options as possible to the new customers they’ll be sure

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Marissa Webb Resort 2019

Every Marissa Webb collection begins with a man. It’s not surprising as the designer has cultivated a masculine-feminine narrative.
This season began with a deep dive into Google and an image of an effeminate male wearing a bleached jumper in a Seventies ad. (Possibly a date ad, Webb isn’t quite sure.) It inspired the bleached denim pieces in the collection — a couple of great high-waisted shorts with wide-leg openings, and a shirt jacket and jeans with distressing she does herself with a Dremel tool.
She also searched various names and places like Charlotte Rampling, Lauren Hutton, Thailand and Spain, which would explain the casualness in flirty dresses and suiting and the saturated color palette. Where Webb excels is at the intersection of the hard-soft, structured-fluid spectrum. Casual white Ts were dipped in paillettes, hand-painted floral patterns were cut into short suits, and ruching and ruffles were done in atypical crisp canvas to better maintain shape. Other highlights included feminine-inflected tailoring, like boxy blazers with ruffle sleeves, soft-tailored frayed suiting and leather pants with more leg room.
“Everything stands alone,” Webb said at a preview, adding: “Everything has a casual element, even if it feels dressed up, you can pair it with flats.”

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Sally LaPointe RTW Resort 2019

Exploration was the watchword encompassing Sally LaPointe’s resort lineup, and with it, a lot of newness. Not only is LaPointe expanding on her fabric library with diverse, lighter-weight textiles and (surprise!) faux-fur and shearling, she’s favoring colors (read: no black) like rust, pink and deep blue. Not to mention an imminent e-comm launch in July with an exclusive knit capsule based on bestsellers.
Resort continued a thread of comfortable, approachable luxe with transitional staples. Her customers favor supersoft cashmere, pants and, of course, fur accents. LaPointe offered these in spades and updated details: fur accents on a featherweight cupro top and newly introduced fur “trimming” along the seams of a pastel pink bonded satin jacket were standouts.
The most important quality LaPointe wanted to maintain in new fabrics was a great hand touch. Shearling made to mimic fox accented the cuffs of buttery ribbed chenille tops. Silk cotton separates and dresses LaPointe “finally got right” are more luxe than your typical crisp market options. Even bonded viscose sweatsuits leaning on the side of leisure were airy and soft.
The looks that stood out most blended unexpected pairings. A grainy patent coat featured bright-colored fur in the seams, as did a deep v-neck sequin

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Tibi Resort 2019

There were several things on Amy Smilovic’s mind when designing resort. First, the final season of “Mad Men,” when Don Draper and crew had gone to California only to come back to the harsh reality of New York. Second, how does one keep the color, and upbeat vibe of a mid-winter vacation alive in her urban wardrobe? And third, how to keep the collection elevated?
The lineup was awash in quirky, Sixties colors — sour green, saturated lavender and pink, bright blue — used to pop against offbeat neutrals like slate brown. They were used on easy, sophisticated shapes and shown in combinations that took any color intimidation factor down a notch. The silhouettes and fabrics were meant to be “buy now, wear forever,” said Smilovic, noting that a draped shirtdress layered under a cashmere sweater or cardigan — a big silhouette in the lineup — could make it through 12 months a year.
There were spare oversize blazers and dresses with wrap-around leather belts. Midi lace dresses in pink and green had athletic details to keep them in the tomboy zone, as Smilovic likes it. A fluid shirtdress was done in a green and white Hawaiian print. A quilted trench and

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Bande Noir Resort 2019

The second collection by creative director Mayte Allende reemphasized some of the staples she introduced for fall, such as T-shirts and tops with ties at the bust and draped trompe l’oeil bustier details, as well as delicate ruched tulle tops and dresses. This time she developed the bustier T-shirt into a liquid silver gown and presented the tulle looks in blush, inspired by the nudes of artist Linder Sterling. Allende’s design philosophy is making comfortable, easy-to-wear pieces amped up with special details that focus on the female form and blur the line between day and evening. A striped long-sleeve cotton dress had cutouts at the side and back. A sheer nude trench with black tipping was embroidered in sequins and a spaghetti strap halter jumpsuit had cutouts under the bustline.

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Etro Resort 2019

Veronica Etro opened the doors of a secret garden for resort.
A dreamy, feminine and charming atmosphere was injected into her sophisticated lineup where the discreet elegance of uncomplicated silhouettes was peppered with a kaleidoscopic range of multicolor prints.
Botanical motifs and new versions of the house’s signature paisley patterns, which were updated with intricate floral graphics, gave a joyful attitude to relaxed pants with striped tops, easy-chic frocks with delicate ribbon details, maxidresses injected with a boho mood, as well as fluid Kimono-inspired silk robe coats.
Introducing a more rational, geometric feel, colorblock patterns appeared on a languid one-shoulder tunic paired with wide-leg trousers, while a sweet, whimsical touch was added via a motif mixing stars and a stylized dancing couple — the protagonists of a modern fairy tale.

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Fabiana Filippi Resort 2019

Luxurious materials and shimmering effects are balanced by a sense of relaxed sophistication in the Fabiana Filippi resort collection, the first pre-collection introduced by the brand.
Cashmere and shearling, but also soft nylons, are laminated to inject a sparkling feel into the lineup, which this season included a range of outfits fitting the varied needs of contemporary women.
Lightweight double-faced coats are worn with unfussy wrap skirts, while chic pajama-inspired sets and elevated tracksuits are rooted in a practical, urban aesthetic.
A feminine feel is injected into the maxi frocks, crafted from both draped tulle and plissé silk, while an organza jacket combines a see-through look with a tailored cut.

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Front Row at Dior Cruise 2019

SPIRITED ELEMENTS: The rain hadn’t really begun in earnest when guests trickled in through a cobblestone alley to take their seats lining the white sandy ring for the Dior Cruise show.
“Maybe we can find an umbrella somewhere,” Billie Lourd laughed as she hunted for her seat. The actress is gearing up for her eighth season of “American Horror Story” and working on a movie called “Book Smart,” directed by Olivia Wild.
“She’s a goddess! I’m so excited,” Lourd said with a grin. Surveying the arena on the grounds of Chantilly’s historic stables she professed her love of horses but said she’s allergic to them.
“I’m allergic and it’s the saddest thing ever, but honestly, I’ll still go on them because they’re so beautiful,” she added wistfully.
“I used to keep my horse in a much smaller affair,” noted Alexa Chung as she entered the eighteenth century edifice, built by the Prince of Condé who expected to be reincarnated as a horse.
Florence Pugh, who plays a wrestler in the upcoming film “Fighting With My Family” glided through the hubbub, as the raindrops thickened, her hair pulled up and elegantly woven in the back.
“I grew up on horses. I used to live in Spain where I

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Jil Sander Resort 2019

Purity, elegance, strength and quintessential beauty.
A brand with a strong heritage and a very specific identity, Jil Sander over the last few years has struggled to find its own way to refresh its image for contemporary customers and consequentially return to the relevance of its heyday.
In a fashion scenario dominated by a new maximalism and by untamed street wave, discreet sophistication, rationalism and a less-is-more approach might be considered out of fashion. But, actually, will good taste ever go out of fashion?
No, according to Lucie and Luke Meier, who delivered another convincing collection for the Jil Sander brand. With their quiet, soft-spoken approach, they are actually succeeding in developing a new contemporary language, which speaks of Jil Sander but through codes in sync with the current times.
The designers showcased a realistic wardrobe, filled with urban, highly wearable options, yet peppered with a fascinating twist. Their constant research for an approach projected into the future yet anchored by a personal and sensitive attitude resulted in the delicacy of the mattress-inspired quilted fabrics, the tablecloth-like Vichy patterns and the stretch seersuckers developed in a sorbet palette of light blue and yellow.
The silhouettes spanned from more constructed designs, such as impeccable coats with hourglass lines, to sharp-cut shirtdresses in crisp

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Dior Cruise 2019: Preview

Maria Grazia Chiuri may have curbed her wandering instincts for this year’s Christian Dior cruise show, but her inspiration travels across continents.
Chances were strong that her collection, to be unveiled on Friday night in the Great Stables of the Domaine de Chantilly, would weave in an equestrian theme, but the designer is sure to surprise with outfits inspired by the female riders, called escaramuzas, that compete in Mexico’s version of rodeo.
With their embellished sombreros and embroidered cotton dresses, which flare out into tiered skirts layered with petticoats, the riders cut dashing figures as they perform stunts at full gallop, all the while riding sidesaddle.
The fearlessness of the sport taps right into Chiuri’s love for strong women, a running thread in all her collections since she took over as creative director for women’s wear in 2016, marking her debut show with “We should all be feminists” T-shirts.
“The reason I like the escaramuzas is because they do something that is so macho — rodeo — in our vision, but they decided to do that in their traditional dresses which are so pretty, so feminine,” she said during a fitting at Dior’s ready-to-wear workshop in Paris.
Chiuri, who has visited Mexico several times, returned

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Emilio Pucci Resort 2019

The joyful, flamboyant mood of a tropical summer: For the resort season, Emilio Pucci’s design team embraced a happy, colorful aesthetic that injected an energetic vibe into the brand’s lineup.
A kaleidoscope of new prints, featuring a more graphic look compared to archival motifs, was juxtaposed with eye-catching solids, such as sunflower yellow, hot pink and strawberry red. There was something sensual about the fitted dresses and the mini skirts embellished with embroideries and trimmed with raffia fringes.
Breezy caftans were decorated with prints at the cuffs, while silk inserts gave a luxurious touch to cropped, wide-leg jeans. If a foldable maxi K-way showed the most sporty and practical face of the brand, evening dresses featuring all-over embroideries were designed for jet-setters.

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Oscar de la Renta Resort 2019

Describing a fashion show as very “mother-of-the-bride” is not always a compliment. Yet it was accurate and deliberate in the case of Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim’s resort collection for Oscar de la Renta. If there was ever a time to go in that direction, this was it.
Garcia and Kim were already looking at a Wedgwood book by Rizzoli as a key reference for the lineup in February when “we got Meghan [Markle’s] phone call to help dress her mom for the royal wedding,” Garcia said after Tuesday’s show, referring to the ODLR ensemble Doria Ragland wore to her daughter’s, the Duchess of Sussex, nuptials last weekend. He noted that the request to dress the most watched mother-of-the-bride in recent memory and the bridal registry china inspiration were a happy coincidence, so the designers went with it.
The English pottery brand’s heritage informed many of the collection’s colors and patterns. Everything in the lineup would be appropriate for an event on a wedding weekend itinerary — the rehearsal dinner, reception, bridesmaids’ dresses, morning after brunch. The show opened with a series of ivory and pastel stretch wool dresses that were minimal in shape with hemlines cut like architectural petals. There were

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Zac Posen Resort 2019

A maestro of red-carpet drama, Zac Posen has a practical side, too. He referred to his approach to his resort collection as “the merchandising matrix” during a preview of the collection last week. “You’re going against what’s selling, what you need to expand. We build with all our retailers and customers door by door.” In terms of what’s selling and what’s expanding now: cropped suiting and shirting. He developed the former in a neat black cropped jacket with a white tie neck over a slim black shift dress. The latter came as white cotton blouses with statement cuffs and more fluid satin draped blouses that paired with languid tuxedo/pajama pants. The collection was framed in a strong “direct” palette of black, red, magenta, cobalt blue and pale pink with silhouettes crafted with an Eighties lens, which Posen handled with grace and subtlety. There were no “Dynasty” shoulders, more like gentle draping on killer, curve-hugging silhouettes that Posen knows will sell.

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Tory Burch Resort 2019

Tory Burch shot her resort look book on the lawn and in the laundry room of her Southampton, N.Y. home. It would have been hard to find a more fitting environment for the collection’s idyllic mood that crossbred classic all-American summer with some traditional French seaside chic. One of Burch’s key references was “The Little Prince” translated abstractly into elongated shirt collars, whimsical illustrated prints on pajama separates and a chunky ivory sweater with a pattern that riffed on the famous line from the book, “One sees clearly only with the heart.”
There was an abundance of stripes and shirting, as well as breezy embroidered dresses and peasant blouses, sailor pants and striped shirts, oversize knits and lightweight shearling jackets. Skirts and dresses were long, sometimes asymmetric. Pants were relaxed. Tops were roomy. Yet the look was quite clean, done in a washed, classic palette of ivory, white, khaki, navy and chambray. The accessories, too, felt pared-down with neat bags and sandals reminiscent of Birkenstocks. Burch said the more minimalist lineup was the result of a few years of editing and reevaluating her aesthetic. “It’s been a work in progress getting it to where it is now,” she said. “Less is

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Escada Resort 2019

Niall Sloan’s second collection as global design director ran the gamut of approachable day-to-evening fare. Where his fall debut channeled the eccentricity of Escada’s archive with an Eighties bent, here Sloan incorporated the season’s inspiration with whimsical flare.
He looked to the night sky — perhaps inspired by the clarity of his newfound home (the designer splits his time between London and Munich, where Escada is based) — in ways ranging literal (a billowing cloud print on a sharp-shouldered dress; a recurring star motif), to abstract (the use of Lurex and velvet to reference starlight).
Sloan has been focused on broadening the brand’s definition of cocktail while leveling a casual thread. The strongest pieces managed to balance flash with restraint, like the shimmery metallic gowns that shaped the body loosely, or a billowy dress with shooting star print. In two seasons, he’s demonstrated a playfulness not commonly associated with the boardroom-oriented Escada woman.
His playful hand extended namely into daywear. Shots of pink and green livened separates while a brushstroke floral print created through a collaboration with artist Laura Gulshani, who Sloan found on Instagram, provided a sense of youth. The most festive elements came in the form of beading that served as mismatched buttons

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Givenchy Resort 2019

Men’s tailoring has always been the bedrock of Clare Waight Keller’s coed vision for Givenchy. In her debut last fall, she said her focus on sharp shoulders was directly derived from the work of founder Hubert de Givenchy.
For her first resort collection since taking over the creative direction of the label, the designer also delved into a lesser-known part of Givenchy’s heritage: a sportswear line that fed into a selection of looks infused with athletic ease.
“He actually did a sports line at the beginning of the Eighties — Givenchy Sport — and it was kind of interesting, because there, he really used a lot of the graphic designs and these sort of V-shapes,” she explained. “I thought it was interesting to mix that back into the more sophisticated tailoring part.”
Men’s logo track pants, or second-skin tops in technical fabrics, were overt nods to the athleisure trend that has swept through to high-end brands. It translated more subtly in the women’s looks, which included roomy separates in paper-thin glossy leather, done in subtle hues like forest green and Prussian blue.
The Eighties influence was overt with items like cowl-neck tops with batwing sleeves, or a burgundy jersey zip-up jacket with a black

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Just Cavalli Resort 2019

Florence served as a major inspiration for the Just Cavalli resort collection, the first designed by creative director Paul Surridge since his arrival at the company last year.
A view of the landscape of the Tuscan city, which is the fashion house’s hometown, as well as the iconic image of the marble statue of David by Michelangelo in Piazza della Signoria, pop up in the young and fun collection.
Rooted in an urban, contemporary mood, the versatile lineup offers a range of easy-to-wear pieces, spanning from multicolored jacquard sweaters, slipdresses layered over lace blouses, as well as a Barbie-like outfit, combining a miniskirt with a denim-inspired jacket, both crafted from baby pink leather.
The brand’s signature wild animal motifs are reworked through a graphic lens and mixed and matched on maxi frocks, while an ironic feel runs trough a lacquered yellow bomber worn with coordinated pants printed in a crocodile pattern.
Staying away from certain rock ’n’ roll and sexy clichés of the brand’s previous collection, Surridge managed to deliver an unfussy and unpretentious lineup of wearable yet eye-catching pieces for the real girls of 2019.

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Tomas Maier Resort 2019

No one is immune to influence. That’s why designers have mood boards. Tomas Maier’s brand is anchored in comfortable, everyday sportswear with a fashion attitude. What are the biggest things happening in comfortable, casual sportswear? Puffer jackets, tracksuits, windbreakers, logomania and, of course, the Eighties. Maier had it all in his women’s and men’s resort collection, handling pieces that are widely available elsewhere with his smart, thoughtful hand.
“It’s a little influenced by the early Eighties music scene, early hip-hop,” said Maier during a preview. Track jackets were reversible and pants, cut wide and slouchy, were done in washed flannel and felted wool jersey to give the dressed-down look a polished finish. Oversize cashmere sweaters and fitted knits in sporty graphic compositions were chicly athletic, likewise the down puffers and shearling and nylon jackets. Maier’s signature palm-tree motif was done in an Eighties Los Angeles way, the long, skinny palms printed against pink sunset skies. Adopting his branding to the seasonal theme that way made sense, though the same could not be said for cartoony graphic cassette-tape motifs, which felt too juvenile for Maier’s clientele.
Logos are everywhere, so it was less surprising to see “Maier” stamped boldly on shoes than it

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Prada Resort 2019

After a fashion show, a critic typically rushes from the venue back to office, home, hotel, wherever, and writes as carefully considered a review as deadline — usually right now — permits.  
Following Miuccia Prada’s cruise show last night, I ignored that deep-rooted conditioning to actually enjoy, rather than fret through, the post-show fete (Tonne Goodman — a delightful dinner companion), and went home to bed after what I thought was quite a strong show. A night’s sleep and some morning rumination told me I was wrong. Prada’s show wasn’t merely strong. It was brilliant.
Not deep-thoughts, esoteric brilliant, but aggressively commercial, resort-long-selling-season-give-me-a-smart-coat-and-pants brilliant. “It’s like a fantasy and the reality,” Prada said, describing her motif du jour. “Of course, [a show is] always a fantasy. It’s my fantasy on what today for me is real.” 
A longtime holdout from the cruise extravaganza, Prada acknowledged that market realities ultimately forced her hand. “Everybody is doing more, and so you have to adapt, more or less,” she said.
So after years of sprinkling women’s cruise looks into her June men’s show, last year she staged a full resort show in Milan. This time she opted for another of her brand’s “homes,” its Herzog &

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Chanel Cruise 2019

PARIS — What better way to showcase cruise than on a cruise?
That, at least, was the thinking at Chanel this season, but the plan ran into a snag: the house could not secure a ship fit to host its floating show. So instead, creative director Karl Lagerfeld brought the boat to dry land, constructing a 330-foot-long ocean liner in the middle of the Grand Palais.
Named La Pausa, after the villa in the South of France built by founder Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in the Thirties, the replica ship was the spectacular backdrop for Chanel’s cruise collection on Thursday night, which drew guests including Margot Robbie, Kristen Stewart and Lily-Rose Depp.
But it was another appearance that set tongues wagging: Lagerfeld took his bow with his longtime fashion studio director Virginie Viard, in a move sure to fan rumors about his potential retirement — though a spokeswoman for Chanel said he had done it before, and there was no special significance to the gesture.
By now, the designer’s outsize imagination should come as no surprise to any regular guests at his Chanel shows, which in recent seasons have featured a space rocket, a waterfall and a reproduction of the Eiffel Tower. But this was

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2019 Aston Martin DB11 Volante: A Six-Figure Car That’s Worth Every Penny

Truly beautiful street-legal cars are rare, but Aston Martin’s DB11 Volante makes the list. Dan Neil opens up its V8 while driving along England’s seaside cliffs.
WSJ.com: Lifestyle

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Danny Boyle’s Kate McKinnon Comedy Gets Fall 2019 Release

Universal Studios has set a Sept. 13, 2019, release date for its untitled comedy with director Danny Boyle and stars Kate McKinnon, Lily James, and Himesh Patel. Boyle will be directing from a script he co-wrote with Richard Curtis. The Irish writer-director said last month that he’s also been working on script for the 25th […]

Variety

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Dior to Stage Cruise 2019 Show at Chantilly Stables

SADDLE UP: Dior is staging its cruise 2019 show closer to home than the last edition, which took place in the Santa Monica Mountains. Scheduled for May 25, the event will take place at the Grandes Écuries of the Domaine de Chantilly, near Paris.
A symbol of French prestige and art de vivre, the historic stables — which are the largest in Europe — were constructed in the 18th century for the seventh Prince de Condé, Louis-Henri de Bourbon.
The city of Chantilly has long-standing ties with Dior, from the founding couturier’s first creations to those of his successors, Yves Saint Laurent and Marc Bohan. Various designs for the house over the years have carried or evoked its name and prestige, starting with Christian Dior’s second collection, for fall 1947, which featured an evening dress baptized at Chantilly.
While Dior journeyed to the sweeping Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve in Calabasas, Calif., for the staging of its Cruise 2018 show — marking the first big destination event for artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri — the setting of the house’s next display promises to be more about time travel. And possibly an equestrian theme.

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Max Mara to Hold Cruise 2019 Runway Show

HOMETOWN CRUISE: Max Mara will for the first time hold its cruise 2019 show in Reggio Emilia, Italy, where the company is based. The show is scheduled on June 4.
Max Mara has previously presented its pre-collections in New York, for pre-fall 2015; London, for resort 2016, and Shanghai, for pre-fall 2017.
As reported, Miuccia Prada will show her cruise 2019 collection in New York on May 4, but is keeping details about the location under wraps. Alessandro Michele at Gucci will be traveling to Arles for his next cruise show, to be held in Arles on May 30, while Nicolas Ghesquière has chosen a holiday destination for Louis Vuitton’s next cruise show: the French Riviera. Vuitton has set May 28 as the date for its next itinerant fashion spectacle, but the exact location will be revealed at a later date.

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Rich Minimalism: Density the New Gauge of Luxury for Spring 2019

PARIS — Fabric collections at Première Vision Paris signaled a shift to a more delicate and refined mood for spring 2019, with a range of cloudy, hazy and powdery surfaces and gently nuanced fabrics that were soft on the eye.
Other directions for the season include “rich minimalism” explored through fabrics and leathers offering a syrupy, dense and suave suppleness.
Expect less visual excess. “It’s a season where there is a place for simplicity, with noble plains, and sophisticated mélanges. Density is a gauge of luxury,” said Ariane Bigot, deputy fashion director at PV Paris.
“Patterns are worked in a simplified way, but are never boring. Geometrics are dynamic and joyful,” continued Bigot, who also highlighted “new ornamentation” among trends.
“Even the jacquard specialists are demonstrating a new simplicity, offering exceptional monochromes that are sober and majestic.”
The hybridization trend continues to gather steam, with unexpected contrasts, and refined mixes of synthetics and raw and rustic, vegetal materials.
Undulating, hazy stripes and patterns draw the eye and are joyful and delicate.
Shiny fabrics and metallics are no longer limited to the red carpet, with bold modern spins surfacing in the sportswear, men’s wear and casualwear categories.
Wet “aquatic” looks, plastic-y finishes and jellified surfaces are key for accessories.
Meanwhile, “Infinite”

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OzoneSocks – 15% Off Orders Over $50 at OzoneSocks.com! Use Code – 15OVER50, Exclusions Apply. Expires In 2019.

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Big Little Lies Season 2 Won’t Premiere on HBO Until 2019

Big Little LiesYour trip back to Monterey is going to have to wait just a bit, Big Little Lies fans.
Now that HBO has officially renewed the hit limited series for a surprise second season, programming…

E! Online (US) – TV News

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Tim Burton’s Live-Action ‘Dumbo’ Lifts Off to March 2019 Release

“Dumbo” still has a ways to go before its cleared for take off, but at least now we know the final destination. Disney has confirmed Tim Burton’s live-action adaptation of the 1941 animated classic will fly into theaters March 29, 2019. “Dumbo” was just one of Disney’s many attractions at the D23 Expo on Saturday. While… Read more »

Variety

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Volvo ditching all-petrol cars from 2019

Volvo is to become the first mainstream car manufacturer to produce only electric or hybrid vehicles.
Tech News – Latest Technology and Gadget News | Sky News

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Driverless cars trial set for UK motorways in 2019

The project will include a journey between London and Oxford in 2019.
BBC News – Technology

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