Berluti Men’s Spring 2019

While fellow designers Kim Jones at Dior and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton were making splashy runway debuts in June, Kris Van Assche was quietly unveiling his first collection for Berluti to buyers in showroom appointments.
Editors discovered the collection this week, when it was presented in a temporary glass-walled pavilion designed by Jean Prouvé, set up on the Place de la Concorde in Paris to coincide with the FIAC contemporary art fair.
Designed as a prologue to his first runway show, scheduled for January, the capsule line reflected the mix of tailoring and sportswear that has been a trademark of Van Assche’s previous work, both at Dior men’s and for his own label.
Cropped-leg suits and white shirts, some with black leather patches, rubbed shoulders with smart cashmere blousons and hoodies, including one in paper-thin red lamb leather.
Van Assche used the Scritto, an 18th-century manuscript motif that normally appears on Berluti shoes, in a variety of guises: as a graphic black print on a white T-shirt, a multicolored pattern on a black shirt, or tone-on-tone jacquard accents on a cream tuxedo.
The house’s trademark patina appeared as a blue and red colorway deployed across clothing — such as a cashmere and silk crewneck

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Kris Van Assche Unveils First Design for Berluti on Instagram

Having teased Berluti’s new visual identity with a fly poster campaign during men’s fashion week in June, Kris van Assche is the latest designer to unveil his first looks for a new house at a wedding.

The incumbent designer at Berluti revealed on Instagram the custom-made wedding outfits for French writer and director Samuel Benchetrit, who married French singer and actress Vanessa Paradis in an intimate ceremony on Saturday.
The groom was seen in a dark blue suit at the town hall of Saint-Simeon, which is 60 kilometers west of Paris, while van Assche also showed a white tuxedo on image feed.

The bride opted for a vintage white dress and veil for the civil ceremony before donning a Chanel outfit for the evening party. Paradis’ daughter, Lily-Rose Depp, spotted in a pale-yellow spaghetti strap dress, matched her mother’s hairstyle.
Kim Jones had similarly revealed his first design for Dior Homme at a wedding. David Beckham wore it at the royal nuptials of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle.

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Berluti Opens First Los Angeles Area Store

Berluti’s Parisian world of leather goods has made its way to the Los Angeles market.
The Paris-based maker of shoes, accessories and apparel bowed its first boutique in the Los Angeles area, located in Beverly Hills on Brighton Way. This marks the company’s second stand-alone store in California after South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa. The company also has a shop-in-shop store at Neiman Marcus in San Francisco.
“This emblematic Beverly Hills address is an affirmation of our presence in the U.S. and marks the opening of our fifth store in America,” said Berluti chief executive officer Antoine Arnault in a statement. “The innovative new concept pays homage to Los Angeles while remaining faithful to Berluti’s deep traditions in the art of leather and patina.”
The 1,100-square-foot space was designed with herringbone patterned wood floors, gray walls, onyx and lacquered fixtures and touches of bronze.
The Beverly Hills boutique, which held a soft opening this week, exclusively carries Berluti’s Playfield sneaker in natural lizard.
The company, founded in 1895 as a shoemaker, has since gone on to introduce leather goods in 2005 followed by apparel in 2011.
Berluti operates more than 45 stores globally.
For More Los Angeles Coverage in WWD:
Nasty Gal Finds its Way Back to Vintage
Allbirds

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Berluti Opens First Store in Germany in Frankfurt

Berluti has opened its first boutique in Germany.
The 5,942-square-foot boutique on Frankfurt’s Goethestrasse street is designed as a “cabinet of curiosities meets the gentleman’s club,” the company said. Traditional materials are used in contemporary ways to offer a blend of casualness and sophistication. The facade is gray and the shop offers touches of the brand’s signature Venezia leather on armchairs, walls and floors.
The shop offers Berluti’s shoes, leather goods and ready-to-wear, and includes Alessandro shoes, Un Jour and Deux Jour briefcases, Playtime sneakers and Toys for Boys accessories.
Berluti traces its roots to Paris in 1895 and has built its reputation as a shoemaker. Leather goods were added in 2005 and, in 2011, with the appointment of artistic director Alessandro Sartori, the brand expanded into apparel.
Berluti operates more than 40 stores in major cities around the world.

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