Hussein Chalayan, Peter Saville Accuse Fashion Corporates of Crushing Creativity

LONDON — How is technology impacting creativity, and what does it really take to disrupt an industry that’s reaching saturation point?
Frieze Academy brought together a series of creatives — ranging from Kim Jones and Hussein Chalayan, to graphics expert Peter Saville and sound designer Michel Gaubert — to argue those questions in a series of talks held at the Royal Academy of Arts on Friday.
Chalayan, one of the first designers to incorporate technology into his work and present moving garments in his famous “Geotropics” collection in 1999, said technology’s impact on the arts hasn’t necessarily been a good thing.
He described wearables as “tacky” and highlighted the growing interest of handcrafted techniques: “It’s such a cliché to be chasing 3-D printing now. I liked it at the beginning, but not anymore, it no longer feels expensive somehow,” Chalayan said.
He also touched on the influence of the Internet and social media, talking about the “sense of entitlement,” that the easy access to data has created in younger generations.
“Are you really learning by Googling something?” he said, adding that social media and the rise of fashion conglomerates have both dampened creativity. Chalayan said  there is less room today to speak up, take risks and

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Chalayan Comes Home to London

CHANNEL HOP: London Fashion Week isn’t just a hotbed of emerging talent. Established designers have their place, too. After 16 years of showing his women’s wear collections in Paris, London-based Hussein Chalayan returned to London to show his Chalayan fall 2017 collection on Saturday.
After the show, which he presented at Sadler’s Wells Theater (a venue he’s used in the past, and the site of a collaboration with a contemporary dance company last year) Chalayan laid out his reasons for coming back.
“We left London, as we felt we were making this very big effort…but a lot of people weren’t coming to London at that time. And we felt for business we had to go to Paris – and when we moved to Paris our business grew considerably,” he said. “These days it’s different. You have to remember that digital media, the whole thing, was not as developed as it is now – it was a different life.”
Chalayan also showed his first men’s runway collection in January during London Fashion Week Men’s. And in 2015, the designer debuted a sleek store on Mayfair’s Bourdon Street. Asked whether he’ll continue to show his women’s collection in London, the designer was noncommittal.
“I don’t know

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Chalayan Pre-Fall 2017

For pre-fall, Hussein Chalayan pondered the concept of the new individual and her needs.
“I was looking at the idea of how the Ancient Greeks were revived in the 19th century by Lord Byron,” said Chalayan, “and how the whole sense of personhood was redefined by northwestern Europeans. Then I looked at this idea of how the corporate world is shaping the way we present ourselves, and how Greek ideas have been reappropriated now.”
He sent a conceptual lineup of jackets, coats, dresses, trousers and blouses filled with Greek-inspired ideas that felt relaxed and luxurious for the modern working wardrobe.
Dresses and tailored shirting were interestingly constructed with frocks featuring scarves that can be worn as a scarf or draped. He developed sleeves into sashes, which playfully decorated a navy button-down shirt as the cotton material was draped and twisted diagonally across the bodice. The detail embellishment was also seen in a black-and-white button-down stretch cotton shirt, for which loose material was wound up around the waist and worn over a black wool skirt with the same wrap detail.
His Grecian take was translated into luxurious outerwear as seen in a waistcoat, which was tucked under a gray cashmere wool jacket.
Elsewhere, loose proportions drooped on generously

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