Chrissy Teigen Shows 4 Ways to Layer Dresses in the Fall

ESC: Fall Boots, Chrissy TeigenChrissy Teigen revealed epic looks this week and we couldn’t help but notice her mastery of fall layers.
Based on looks like her shirt dress, blazer and patent leather boots…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

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Chrissy Teigen Shows 4 Ways to Layer Dresses in the Fall

ESC: Fall Boots, Chrissy TeigenChrissy Teigen revealed epic looks this week and we couldn’t help but notice her mastery of fall layers.
Based on looks like her shirt dress, blazer and patent leather boots…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

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10 Fall Leggings That Will Actually Upgrade Your Look

Shopping: LeggingsLeggings are basically sweatpants, so we don’t blame you for wanting to wear them all the time.
Sure you can get away with wearing workout pants on the weekends, but can you really…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

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It’s Finally Fall! Here’s Everything to Know About the Fall Equinox

Despite the fact that the pumpkin spice latte debuted this year in August, fall actually doesn’t begin until Saturday, Sept. 22, 2018. This day not only marks the unofficial start of sweater weather, it it also has a scientific significance: the autumnal equinox.

The equinox isn’t just a day, it’s a minute.

According to The Weather Channel, the autumnal equinox happens at 9:54 p.m. EDT, marking the official end of summer and the beginning of fall. During that minute, the sun crosses the Earth’s equator from the Northern Hemisphere into the Southern Hemisphere and day and night last the exact same amount of time — 12 hours — everywhere across the world.

So why does this happen? Throughout the year, the earth tilts on its axis at a diagonal away from or toward the sun, causing the change in seasons. During the equinox, it becomes momentarily perfectly perpendicular, meaning the sun’s rays pass directly over the equator. Following that minute, the Northern hemisphere begins to tilt away from the sun leading to shorter days and cooler temperatures. It also causes a shift in the jet stream, which affects weather patterns.

RELATED: Joanna Gaines Reveals a Rare Behind-the-Scenes Look at Magnolia Market’s Fall Decor

Equinoxes happen twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall, while the solstices occur once in the summer and once in the winter. During an equinox, the sun is at the closest distance to the equator, while during a solstice it is the furthest distance away.

WATCH THIS: Sugar, Spice & Everything Nice! Starbucks’ Pumpkin Spice Latte Returns Early

What time does your the autumnal equinox begin in your time zone?

RELATED: Target Just Dropped a Halloween Collection in Summer and We’re Not Even Mad Because it’s So Cute

Eastern Daylight Time: 9:54 p.m.
Central Daylight Time: 8:54 p.m.
Mountain Daylight Time: 7:54 p.m.
Mountain Standard Time (Arizona): 6:54 p.m.
Pacific Daylight Time: 6:54 p.m.
Alaska Daylight Time: 5:54 p.m.
Hawaii-Aleutian Standard Time: 3:54 p.m.


PEOPLE.com

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Modell’s Sporting Goods – First Day of Fall Sale. Take 25% Off All Regular Price Apparel & Footwear

First Day of Fall Sale. Take 25% Off All Regular Price Apparel & Footwear
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Bella Hadid Updates a Fall Sweater Trend From the ’90s Hit Jawbreaker

ESC: Throwback Thursday, Bella HadidIf anyone can make a cardigan look sexy, it’s Bella Hadid.
Spotted in Paris this week, Hadid put a modern twist on a cardigan by pairing a mustard yellow cardigan with mom jeans,…

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Bella Hadid Updates a Fall Sweater Trend From the ’90s Hit Jawbreaker

ESC: Throwback Thursday, Bella HadidIf anyone can make a cardigan look sexy, it’s Bella Hadid.
Spotted in Milan this week, Hadid put a modern twist on a cardigan by pairing a mustard yellow cardigan with mom jeans,…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

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Puzzle Master – Fall Sale 2018

Get 10% OFF on all the Puzzle items with coupon code "10-OFF"
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Puzzle Master – Fall Sale 2018

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Puzzle Master – Fall Sale 2018

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Puzzle Master – Fall Sale 2018

Get 10% OFF on all the Puzzle items with coupon code "10-OFF"
Code: 10-OFF
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Puzzle Master – Fall Sale 2018

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14 Oversize Blazers to Wear Like the Celebs This Fall

Shopping: Oversized BlazersSo you thought blazers were just for your mom, did you?
Think again because the once office-only wardrobe staple is having a Hollywood moment and we have to say, we’re her for it. Not…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

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Predicting the Top 10 Fall Box Office Movies

Now that the summer movie season has come to a close, it’s time to look ahead to see what the fall movies have to offer. While the fall movies don’t often put up as big of numbers as their summer counterparts, there are a number of potential blockbusters waiting in the wings, but for the first time in four years, there won’t be a Star Wars movie at the end of the year, which opens up the field considerably. The end of the year is shaping up to be quite competitive though, which could leave a number of high profile releases lost in the shuffle.

While there is only one wide release opening on Christmas Day (Focus Features’ On the Basis of Sex), there are five major releases on December 21 (Alita: Battle Angel, Aquaman, Bumblebee, Holmes & Watson, and Welcome to Marwen), plus Mary Poppins Returns on December 19. This is almost exactly identical to last year’s holiday release schedule which saw the release of five new films (Downsizing, Father Figures, Pitch Perfect 3, The Greatest Showman and Jumanji: Welcome to the Jungle) in the days before Christmas. Jumanji ($ 404.5 million) was the only bona fide hit of the five, although The Greatest Showman ($ 174.3 million) and Pitch Perfect 3 ($ 104.9 million) also fared well.

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Kendall Jenner and Hailey Baldwin’s NYFW Street Style Is Fall Wardrobe Goals

ESC: Kendall Jenner, Hailey BaldwinYou don’t have to wait for fashion week to figure out which trends are going to be popular this fall.
Technically, we already know. In February, most runway shows displayed the…

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Kendall Jenner and Hailey Baldwin’s NYFW Street Style Is Fall Wardrobe Goals

ESC: Kendall Jenner, Hailey BaldwinYou don’t have to wait for fashion week to figure out which trends are going to be popular this fall.
Technically, we already know. In February, most runway shows displayed the…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

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Kaia Gerber Reveals the It Girl Way to Wear a Fall Blazer

ESC: Justine Skye, Revolve PartyThis 16-year-old model is giving us a fresh take on a classic look.
Last night at the launch of the Karl Lagerfeld x Kaia collection at Revolve Social Club, Kaia Gerber, the host of the…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

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Kaia Gerber Reveals the It Girl Way to Wear a Fall Blazer

ESC: Justine Skye, Revolve PartyThis 16-year-old model is giving us a fresh take on a classic look.
Last night at the launch of the Karl Lagerfeld x Kaia collection at Revolve Social Club, Kaia Gerber, the host of the…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

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14 Festive Candles to Instantly Get You In the Fall Spirit

Shopping: Fall Candles Quick survey: How soon is too soon to start stocking up on festive fall candles?
You know the ones. You used to get ’em from school kids who would knock on your door with pamphlets…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

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Kendall Jenner’s Head-to-Toe Fall Denim Outfit Is Super Affordable

ESC: Kendall JennerKendall Jenner’s all-denim outfit may be her most affordable look yet.
Just in time for back to school, the Keeping Up With the Kardashians star was spotted wearing four pieces of…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

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Kylie Jenner Just Wore a Fall Denim Trend You Probably Own Already

ESC: Kylie JennerKylie Jenner is keeping her birthday celebration fashion show going with yet another epic look.
Today, the Keeping Up With the Kardashians star was photographed wearing a black bodysuit,…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

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Kylie Jenner Just Wore a Fall Denim Trend You Probably Own Already

ESC: Kylie JennerKylie Jenner is keeping her birthday celebration fashion show going with yet another epic look.
Today, the Keeping Up With the Kardashians star was photographed wearing a black bodysuit,…

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Inaugural NYC Jewelry Week Planned for Fall

New York will put on the glitz from Nov. 12 to Nov. 18 for the inaugural NYC Jewelry Week.
Founded by Reinstein/Ross gallery director Bella Neyman and consultant JB Jones, the week will see jewelry-centric events scattered about the city.
Studio tours, technique demonstrations, collection viewings and lectures will be available for jewelry designers, executives and enthusiasts to attend.
Specific programs include a curator-led tour of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s forthcoming exhibit “Jewelry: The Body Transformed.” Bergdorf Goodman will present New York-based collections for a private viewing in its jewelry salon. The Brooklyn Navy Yard will facilitate studio visits on its property, showcasing the operations of brands like Catbird.
Other participants include The New Museum, the Museum of Arts and Design, the 92nd Street Y Jewelry Center, Brooklyn Metal Works, The Neue Galerie, David Yurman, Verdura, Tiffany & Co. and Love Adorned.
“We want people to walk away from this week with a greater understanding of how jewelry is made, where it is made, and who makes it. Furthermore, we are providing the public with the tools, by way of the exclusive programming, to become educated consumers and patrons,” Neyman said of the event.
“Unlike a fair or a conference with everything happening under one roof,

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Demi Lovato Cancels Fall Tour Dates After Hospitalization

Demi Lovato has cancelled the remaining dates for her Tell Me You Love Me tour, which was headed to six cities across South America this fall. “Unfortunately, Demi Lovato has canceled her upcoming Tell Me You Love Me Tour dates in South America, as she is focusing on her recovery,” Live Nation said in a […]

Variety

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Don't fall for these text scams asking for your passwords

Don't fall for these text scams asking for your passwordsHere's how to avoid being the victim of texting scams that can steal your personal information.



Yahoo Tech

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Facebook’s Hard Fall Shows the Pitfalls of Big Data

Companies typically use only 5% to 10% of the data they collect. They’re beefing up their efforts to use more—but a consumer backlash is brewing.
WSJ.com: WSJD

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Twitter Shares Fall Sharply on Warning on Declining Users

Twitter said its number of monthly users dropped in the second quarter and could continue to fall as it purges fake accounts.
WSJ.com: WSJD

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Marina Rinaldi by Fausto Puglisi RTW Fall 2018

“I adore women, all women. When you’re on Ocean Drive or Miami Beach, do you just see skinny people? No, you see girls having fun. You can be curvy or skinny, I love women who have personality,” Fausto Puglisi said at the presentation for the 20-piece capsule he designed for Italian plus-size brand Marina Rinaldi.
Sicilian-born, Los Angeles-based Puglisi brought his maximalist vision to bear, playing with vivid hues that wrap around the body in bold blocks of color, or in geometric patterns that adorn the inside and outside of oversized coats. Juxtaposed, these gave an Op Art feel to the silhouettes. Shoes and bags were also in the mix.
Face of the brand Ashley Graham attended the presentation in the Hôtel d’Evreux on Place Vendôme in a floor-length, red leopard chiffon dress with a deep neckline from the range.
“He’s known for his boldness, so to incorporate that with the femininity that Marina Rinaldi represents makes for an impeccable collection. I mean, we have to talk about that iconic leather jacket there,” said actress and model Hayley Hasselhoff, pointing to the gold flower-embellished studded biker jacket — a limited-edition item to be delivered in September — that was the talk of the evening.
The

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Modern Love: This Is What Happens When Friends Fall in Love

She hoped their platonic bond would always outshine romantic attraction. Then her friend got a crush on someone else.
NYT > Fashion & Style

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Valentino Fall Couture 2018

Guests arriving at Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino show on Wednesday evening were diverted from the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild’s main house entrance to a pebbled path to the right of the mansion. It led to a garden that, though open to the public, was a discovery for many regular showgoers, hidden until now behind one of Paris’ mysterious high gray walls. This time, Piccioli invited his quests there for Champagne and a visual treat. With its standing columns, animal statuary and glorious roses — some at their peak, others tinged with the romance of early decay — the garden felt like a secret wonder to which we’d suddenly been allowed entry.
It foreshadowed a wonder of a different sort that would unfold inside, a collection magical beyond words. During a preview, Piccioli showed several looks, each more breathtaking than the last. “A lot of drama,” a guest noted at the appearance of a grand green gown. “A lot of dream,” he corrected gently.
He nailed it. In approaching this collection, Piccioli didn’t want to think about a theme, preferring, he said, “to have a free approach with fabrics, embroideries, colors, etc. I wanted to go very instinctively.” Instinct took him from the 18th century to the

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Chairman of China’s HNA Dies in Accidental Fall From Cliff

Wang Jian, the chairman and co-founder of Chinese conglomerate HNA, died after being injured in an accidental fall during a business trip in France.
WSJ.com: US Business

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Zuhair Murad Couture Fall 2018

For his fall couture lineup, Zuhair Murad looked to Imperial Russia, mining the period’s textures and patterns, and a sprinkling of references to military suits. A dark palette served as a backdrop to elaborate embroideries; floral and arabesque motifs applied in bronze, gold and silver. The designer threw in a bright blue, which he used to make long dresses with flowing capes. Red served as a rich accent — woven into a floral pattern on a cape dress in black crepe in one case, and incorporated on a jacket paired with sarouel pants in another.
There was solid red, too, with an asymmetric dress covered in beads, the embroidery a Fabergé motif. For the rest of the color scheme, he turned to pale hues of green, gray and pale blue; ivory serving as a luxurious backdrop for gold beadwork.
But it wasn’t all about the balls, tsarinas and Fabergé eggs. Murad widened his scope, adding weight through masculine elements borrowed from military uniforms.
“There is the something military but still sexy…this gives confidence and strength,” Murad said backstage.
Handsome, as well. A black velvet tailcoat carried bronze and red accents, the jacket cut extra short in front to reveal the midriff. There was also a

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Ulyana Sergeenko Couture Fall 2018

After last season’s furor, Ulyana Sergeenko seems to have retreated to familiar territory, location-wise and in her work, showing her fall couture collection in Paris’ Russian embassy.
As is her wont, her lineup of car coats and day dresses, skirt suits and cocktail frocks tapped heavily into classic definitions of elegance, accompanied by memorable soundbites on respect and women’s rights from former First Lady Michelle Obama, Princess Diana and purportedly, Mother Teresa.
This iteration painted a well-executed time capsule-worthy picture of prim and proper Fifties dressing. The collection read as a metaphor for a wealthy debutante’s journey, starting with the immaculate white dress she’d wear on her first outing in the world — all virginal layers and matching crocodile accessories — and following her all the way to the saccharine confection that she might commission to walk down the aisle.
To her customer — and they were well-represented at the show — such considerations could be beside the point. After all, whatever lifestyle a woman wants today, it’s her prerogative to reach for it.

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Stéphane Rolland Couture Fall 2018

Stéphane Rolland, as a master of bold, big-volume couture, has taken to favoring stages over runways, this season booking out one of the halls of Radio France. The setting was impressive, with six percussionists positioned above the stage providing the soundtrack.
But in terms of theatricality, Rolland toned it down, presenting a lighter, more fluid evolution of his aesthetic, to the collection’s favor.
The palette, especially the camel cashmeres and pops of deep rose, was also calming.
He moved between organic and futuristic embellishments, such as the curved leather plastrons on gowns, the lines of shell-like 3-D embroidery and the sharp, sculptural collars on a long tuxedo coat-dress with long sleeves.
The final run of voluminous gowns, which were lovely, and touches like the medieval-style floral embroidery, billowing sleeves and trains added a Renaissance flavor, only broken by elements such as skinny pants and boots.
Overall it felt chicer in tone, down to the wedding dress — an airy cloud of white organza dusted with crystals.

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Redemption Couture Fall 2018

After skipping couture in January, Gabriele “Bebe” Moratti wanted to take things in a new direction for fall. The musical references were less blatant; instead of a blaring rock soundtrack, the music aficionado sent out his models with a string quartet playing in the background.
His designs still offered up their dose of glitz, but with plenty of hand-embroidered crystals and sequins to go around. Redemption’s proposition is never for the retiring wallflower, and that sometimes gets in the way of visualizing the craftsmanship involved in its Made in Italy creations.
The techniques and qualities of the fabrics used were distinctly visible in this collection, for which Moratti declined to reveal his specific inspiration, to be continued for the label’s next couple of collections, having recently had his ideas copied, he said backstage before the show.
Powerful Victoriana-inspired shoulders were a recurrent theme, and worked well on a mustard yellow and black brocade minidress or on a vivid blue duchesse ruffled shirt. This was paired with high-waisted pants with metallic flocked embroideries in a leopard pattern that were loud but proud.
With even bigger proportions, layers of organza were worked into something that looked a little like a luxurious rag rug, broadening the silhouette

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Aganovich Couture Fall 2018

For Aganovich’s first couture collection, after being invited to show on the schedule as a guest by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, the brand’s designer duo Nana Aganovich and Brooke Taylor opted to riff on pieces from their fall ready-to-wear line, which is entering stores now.
“Because this is our first couture show, our main inspiration was to do couture — meaning, using the fabrics of the ateliers and seeing how we can push things with the fabric in a couture way,” said Aganovich backstage before the display, the house’s first since 2016.
“The funny system we are trying out is to divide the commercial necessity and the artistic necessity,” continued Taylor. “So the patterns and the variations on this collection are [already] sold as ready-to-wear.” He called the process “supersatisfying.”
The pair turned to the likes of Maison Lesage for embroidery, artisanal leather suppliers, Manolo Blahnik for brocade shoes and Stephen Jones for headpieces. A black dress from the rtw collection was reworked in a more fragile material that took one full month to stitch together.
The luxurious fabrics were a boost for Aganovich’s collection, which otherwise had all the signatures of the house — a romantic, Dickensian feel plus plenty

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Azzaro Couture Fall 2018

For his fall collection at Azzaro, Maxime Simoëns said he’d been reflecting on the “exoticism in the way of seeing women, and I wanted to work in that spirit but with more realism,” which he wanted to express through contemporary cues such as flat shoes, tailoring and the occasional bomber jacket.
Cut to draped dresses, adorned with leafy designs, printed in neon hues or crystal-encrusted; pleated duochrome metallic gowns that flashed with every step, and a slew of bustier minidresses that made legs go on for miles. Here and there, geometric designs broke the mélange of tropical greenery and animal motifs. Those felt in step with the house’s glamorous identity, as seen in the short-term retrospective earlier this year at the Arts Décoratifs.
Less successful were the attempts to dress down. The aforementioned bomber still looked high-maintenance, dotted with crystals and adorned with a glittering Azzaro sprawled across the back. As for the less-intensive designs, say, an immaculate white double-breasted trouser suit or a V-neck gown, those ended up looking as incongruous as wandering into the jungle in a slinky gown.

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The 14 best new features coming to the macOS Mojave this fall

The 14 best new features coming to the macOS Mojave this fallAt Apple’s developers conference on Monday, CEO Tim Cook announced a new version of the Mac’s system software, just as he does every year.



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The Fashion Exchange to Stage Exhibition at FIT’s New Exhibition Space This Fall

EVERLASTING FASHION: After a successful debut exhibition in London earlier this year, The Commonwealth Fashion Exchange, a major project that teams fashion design talent with artisans from across the Commonwealth’s 53 countries, is planning a New York installation.
In September, fashion pieces made through the initiative will be shown at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. The show will be staged in a new yet-to-be-named exhibition on the New York campus’ John P. Pomerantz Art and Design Center. Renovations are under way in the building’s lobby, which will double the exhibition space to 4,000 square feet.
This fall’s event, which is designed to encourage the exchange of creative ideas, will be scheduled during United Nations General Assembly is in session. In London, the CFE exhibition bowed in late February as a lead-up to the 25th Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting, which was held in April. During London Fashion Week in February, a celebratory reception was held at Buckingham Palace, where the Duchess of Cambridge helped to mark the occasion.
Fashion 4 Development founder Evie Evangelou developed the partnership with FIT. She also hosted a high tea for spouses of the heads of state of the Commonwealth countries at Claridge’s to celebrate the

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Sony Pictures Classics Circling ‘Fall of the American Empire’ (EXCLUSIVE)

Sony Pictures Classics is in exclusive negotiations to buy “The Fall of the American Empire,” Variety has learned. The Canadian crime thriller was written and directed by Denys Arcand and stars Alexandre Landry, Maxim Roy, Yan England and Rémy Girard. It centers on a man (Landry) who discovers two bags of money and is faced with […]

Variety

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Mugler by Casey Cadwallader RTW Fall 2018

“For me, it really is a project about starting a new culture around the brand; even the photographs are more about the women than they are the clothes,” Casey Cadwallader mused about his debut fall presentation for Mugler. His approach was focused and smart: to start by designing signatures and pieces that are meant to last and mix in a few shocking pieces. For instance, Cadwallader said he would like to re-create the collection’s cropped, black leather jacket season after season, mentioning, “I think sometimes fashion moves faster than the clients and I’d rather make it so if you see something in a magazine in six months, you might still be able to buy it.”
The same idea of signatures went for great spiral cut jeans, offered in a frayed light wash with matching jacket, clean dark and white washes as well as in green velvet, all of which were high-waisted and shaped to the hip in a very Mugler way. Tailoring also made for an important aspect of the collection, through sharp, rounded wool suiting, styled with sleek, color-blocked cycling leggings and shorts, and was nicely offset by more feminine pieces, like a fluid pink superfine jersey dress.
As for

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Charlotte Casiraghi to Appear in Saint Laurent Fall Campaign

ROYAL WARRANT: Charlotte Casiraghi is the latest glamorous face to join the Saint Laurent fall campaign, marking her first official appearance since her Montblanc ads in 2015.
The granddaughter of Grace Kelly is said to be expecting a child with her partner, Dimitri Rassam, but there is no hint of a pregnancy belly in the black-and-white images, which show the sultry 31-year-old posing in a black cowboy shirt and slim black jeans, and a ruffle-edged pleated bustier dress with slouchy black boots.

Charlotte Casiraghi in the Saint Laurent fall campaign. 
David Sims

The French fashion house also released a video of Casiraghi set to Velvet Underground’s “Venus in Furs.” The Monaco royal joins Kaia Gerber and Betty Catroux in the campaign, which is being released in stages by Saint Laurent’s creative director Anthony Vaccarello.
A regular presence at the label’s fashion shows in Paris, Casiraghi wore a Saint Laurent gown with an oversize ostrich feather trim to the annual Rose Ball in Monaco in March, where she confirmed her engagement to Rassam, the son of French actress Carole Bouquet.
She has previously starred in campaigns for Gucci, which like Saint Laurent belong to French conglomerate Kering, headed by François-Henri Pinault. Casiraghi is also close to Chanel

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Profile: In ‘The Pisces,’ a Woman and a Merman Fall in Love. Aquatic Erotica Ensues.

In her new book, Melissa Broder manages to knead together the genres of magical realism — a merman presumed to be real — and erotic literature.
NYT > Books

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Southwest Bookings Fall After Fatal Accident

Southwest Airlines said bookings have dropped since last week’s fatal accident as the company and rival carriers also face a sharp jump in fuel prices, prompting some to raise fares.
WSJ.com: US Business

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Be With Someone You Can Fall In Love With Over And Over And Over Again

Every single time our relationship is rattled, I somehow end up more in love with my boyfriend than before.
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Danny Boyle’s Kate McKinnon Comedy Gets Fall 2019 Release

Universal Studios has set a Sept. 13, 2019, release date for its untitled comedy with director Danny Boyle and stars Kate McKinnon, Lily James, and Himesh Patel. Boyle will be directing from a script he co-wrote with Richard Curtis. The Irish writer-director said last month that he’s also been working on script for the 25th […]

Variety

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Matchesfashion.com Stages 40-model Live Presentation for Fall Buy

It’s been four years since Matchesfashion.com began staging seasonal press days in various cities and markets to present its buy to press, influencers and in some cases clients, with varying degrees of fanfare. For the most part, the presentations have featured looks and exclusives on static mannequins or racks, though in 2016 the online retailer took over the WOM Townhouse in Manhattan’s SoHo for a private press day, and then opened it up for consumers — essentially a pop-up — for a weekend of programming and previews of the site’s merchandise. Last year the company did something similar, hosting a series of “In Residence” programs in New York, Paris and Los Angeles that included industry and consumer-focused events, conversations with designers, editors and even a florist demo.
For fall, Matchesfashion.com changed it up again, with a two-hour live presentation featuring 40 models — 20 female, 20 male — in New York on Thursday. The models were arranged in vignettes in an open space at 100 Sixth Avenue in SoHo and styled in multibrand looks, many of them exclusives, giving the event the feeling of a fashion week installation rather than a retail press day. The company flew in international press as

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Akiko Aoki RTW Fall 2018

In the four short years since launching, Akiko Aoki has quickly become one of the most talked-about brands on the Tokyo Fashion Week calendar. So when she chose to stage her fall show in a tiny underground space, the city’s top editors clamored for one of the few seats. The setup seemed a bit strange at first, with the audience seated on one side of the room facing a wall of mirrors, in front of which were five sets of white pipes, a shoehorn at the base of each, and in the middle, a single pair of oxfords.
But the props hinted at what was to come, as did the two men dressed in black suits and white gloves who wheeled out racks of clothing, which they transferred to the pipes. Aoki blurred the lines between the runway and backstage by having her models change into the different looks right in front of the audience. It was an unusual choice that worked well for the collection, emphasizing the versatility of the men’s wear-inspired shirts and dresses.
The models came out first in shirts or shirtdresses, which were then tucked into pants or layered under a jacket with long, asymmetric panels. Suiting and

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Liroto RTW Fall 2018

Name: Liroto
Main message: For his newly launched brand’s first collection, Naoki Tomizuka made heavy use of ruffles, gathering, and voluminous shapes. The nearly all-black collection — with a few cream-colored and floral pieces thrown in — consisted of puff-sleeve jackets, asymmetric tops and frilly blouses paired with wide-leg trousers and long skirts. A pair of laced-trimmed, full-skirted dresses and elaborate hats had a very nursery-rhyme-like feel to them. Although theatrical in nature, the clothes had a certain realness that is often lacking in collections by similar brands.
The result: While definitely not for the mainstream, Tomizuka will likely find a following among Tokyo’s very niche fashion tribes.

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Enhance RTW Fall 2018

Name: Enhance
Main message: Masakazu Takeguchi doesn’t take many risks with his collections, but what he does, he does well. His rock-inspired suits, dresses and slim jeans have definite commercial value, even if many of them feel too simple for the runway. To add his own touch to basics, he decorated black suits with tonal embroidery, left raw hems on jackets, placed long zippers up the front of trousers, and cut dramatic slanted hems into skirts. Many looks were accessorized with scarves made of rosettes, which were also used to fashion a long denim skirt, a standout piece.
The result: A veteran of the Japanese fashion business who has worked on several brands, Takeguchi has proven he can make clothes. Now it would be nice to see him experiment a bit more.

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Yohei Ohno RTW Fall 2018

“Shows are fun to watch, but they really have nothing to do with us. This time I wanted to do something that would put [the audience] into the daily lives of other people,” designer Yohei Ohno said after his fall presentation.
Held in an underground space in Tokyo’s Omotesando district, the installation had models posing in natural positions among retro furniture and a mirrored background. While the clothes had Ohno’s typically sculptural shapes, they were also more wearable than his previous offerings, even though he said that wasn’t his intention.
“Until now I’ve used weird materials such as metallics as my signature, but I decided to stop doing that for now and instead use fabrics that are more intimate for people, such as corduroy and tweed,” he said. “I started with these kinds of fabrics that give people an intimate feeling and then expanded them using my own mental image.”
Ohno showed tweed suits with exaggerated puff shoulders, raw denim jackets and high-waisted jeans, shirts with tulle overlays on the sleeves, and tank tops with long, pleated panels hanging off the front and gathered together like curtains. Bodysuits made many appearances in a variety of fabrics, and were worn either layered over the

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Heaven Tanudiredja RTW Fall 2018

Name: Heaven Tanudiredja
Main message: Indonesian designer Heaven Tanudiredja is known for his sculptural accessories, which have appeared on the runways of Christian Dior, Dries Van Noten, Iris van Herpen and Juun. J. In his first runway show in Tokyo he presented a series of lavishly embellished coats, dresses and sheer blouses in a variety of contrasting textures. He used a plastic-like material with all-over circular cut-outs to create long skirts and trapeze dresses, sent out sequined fishnet capes, and topped his delicate chiffon dresses with stiff cotton boleros.
The result: While the detailing, which included embroidery, rhinestones, feathers and sequins, was beautifully done, many of the more elaborate pieces went a bit too far, making them unrealistic for most consumers.

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Tory Sport Fall 2018

Tory Burch focused much of her fall Tory Sport collection on the off-duty moments of life, whether going to and from the gym or the field, to travel to the weekend. “We spent so much time thinking about the seamlessness of someone’s life,” Burch said during a preview. “How do we design things that aren’t so obviously sport but are superfunctional and have the properties an athlete needs, but is also how I’m dressing and others are dressing on the weekend.” That meant a big focus on outerwear with down puffers and parkas in oversize and small and proportions. Some of the coats had positive messaging — “Get to the gym” — sewn into the linings. Running gear came in graphic multicolored checks. Tracksuits were elevated enough to wear to the office and comfortable enough for a warm-up. There were chunky hand-knit ski sweaters, seamless sports bras and leggings, Coolmax cashmere sweatpants and a wrap skirt to make one’s ath-leisurewear a little less dressed-down. There’s a new performance sock sneaker, and Burch continues to up the ante on her golf and tennis gear, infusing the fabrics with sun protection. As of the fall deliveries, Tory Sport will be sold directly

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TTT_MSW RTW Fall 2018

Name: TTT_MSW
Main message: With his brand’s first runway show, 24-year-old designer Shota Tamada brought something that is often lacking from Tokyo fashion week: a youthful energy. Supported by Amazon Fashion’s At Tokyo program, the show re-created a car crash scene, complete with dead grass and leaves, a broken-down car and an artificial rainstorm in the center of the circular runway. Tamada said his theme for the season was “mafia,” and his motley crew of gang members emerged from the backseat of the car before walking the runway in a mix of cargo pants, faux fur coats, velour track jackets, suits, satin shirts and leather-like bomber jackets.
The result: Tamada’s collection lacked originality in terms of design and silhouettes, but employed an interesting use of color and, at times, texture.

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Paradox Tokyo RTW Fall 2018

Name: Paradox Tokyo
Main message: Rie Tobita followed the trend of creating hard-edged streetwear with sporty influences, turning out voluminous puffer jackets closed with plastic buckles, graphic T-shirts, hooded sweatshirts, nylon windbreakers and fleece sweatpants. While much of the collection was done in black, the darkness was punctuated by pops of bright orange, deep purple, royal blue, baby pink and a black-and-white graffiti print.
The result: While it may have reflected actual trends in street fashion, the collection had little originality and gave customers no real reason to buy the pieces from Paradox rather than one of the many other brands producing similar styles.

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Muze RTW Fall 2018

Name: Muze
Main message: Following in the footsteps of designers such as Jeremy Scott and Vetements, Masatoshi Ishida and Hiroshi Shibahara made an attempt to mix the commercial with the creative by splashing the logo of a non-fashion company across their clothes. They chose Calorie Mate, a brand of energy bars and gel drinks that is a mainstay in nearly every Japanese convenience store. The logo appeared on the sleeves of a moto jacket, across the bottom of a shirt, and on hoodies, jackets, asymmetric hemmed skirts and dresses. They also showed more simple, outdoorsy pieces in solid colors, such as a turquoise blue windbreaker and black or cream jackets in a combination of nylon and plush fabrics.
The result: The Calorie Mate pieces didn’t always hit the right tone of irony and many looked like simple advertisements, but they at least were more interesting than the rest of the collection.

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Heartbeat actor Bill Maynard dies after fall

Heartbeat actor Bill Maynard has died in hospital at the age of 89, after breaking his hip in a fall from his mobility scooter.
Entertainment News – Latest Celebrity & Showbiz News | Sky News

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Sise Men’s Fall 2018

Name: Sise
Main message: Seishin Matsui went for a mix of cool and preppy, with biker jackets and long coats sharing the runway with cuffed jeans and button-downs worn under sweatshirts. Athletic influences were plentiful, with slim track pants, relaxed joggers, Windbreakers and loose-fitting shorts — some with legs of uneven lengths — making multiple appearances. While the majority of the collection was turned out in black, white or deep shades of green and burgundy, a few looks in the middle had an almost summery feel in pastels or yellow and blue checks. 
The result: While the silhouettes consisted of classic shapes and Matsui didn’t do much to put his own spin on them, it was a solid showing from a brand that hasn’t staged a runway show in over four years.

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Sandro RTW Fall 2018

What do you get when you try to combine Parisian cool-girl attitude with British nonchalance and Americana-loving irony in the hands of a trend-synthesizing contemporary player like Sandro? A fall collection rife with mismatched jolie laide layers that hit the bull’s-eye of fashion’s current obsession with streetwear gritty/glam. It was a mishmash of statement outerwear — faux furs, tailored plaids, workwear denim and short puffers — layered over sweatshirts, trackpants, long skirts, cropped and distressed denim and dorky socks and trainers. Topping things off were sweatshirts and giant scarves printed with broadly positive, feminist messaging (“Women;” “Love”).

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Digawel RTW Fall 2018

Name: Digawel
Main message: One of the winners of the 2018 Tokyo Fashion Award, Kohei Nishimura has been quietly building a fan base for his designs for over a decade, and participated in Tokyo Fashion Week for the first time this season. While he designs for both men and women, his pieces have a unisex quality. He used suiting fabrics for relaxed and casual trousers, pullovers and anoraks, while turning out easy suits from softer fabrics such as velour. Cozy, long sweaters and long scarves rounded out the offering.
The result: Nishimura proved himself to be deserving of his award with a tight, collection of easy pieces that mix and match together across colors, textures and genders.

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Soe RTW Fall 2018

Name: Soe
Main message: This brand’s collections always incorporate a certain preppy element, and the designers’ fall offering was no exception. Soichiro Ito and Yuki Takagi imagined a new, modern collegiate style that reinterpreted classic coats, checked scarves, pleated skirts and crested sweaters. Their silhouettes were oversize, with shirts untucked and sleeves cut extra long. A print of a crowd at a sporting event, combined with a partial McDonald’s logo, appeared on a skirt, a pullover and the bottom of a long coat, adding a touch of subtle whimsy.
The result: The designers showed their expertise at reinventing classic pieces for the current market, incorporating influences from the past while making the overall result feel very now.

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Wewill Men’s Fall 2018

Name: Wewill
Main message: A year after launching his brand, Hidetaka Fukuzono staged his first runway show in an underground nightclub, with the models walking through narrow corridors and square rooms. It was a collection heavy on outerwear, with a variety of coats in wool tweed, shearling, nylon, leather and more. Fukuzono employed unconventional layering, showing denim jackets under bombers or plush jackets, and pajamas under suit jackets or robe-like coats.
The result: While there wasn’t much originality in the shapes, Fukuzono added interest with his mix of rich, contrasting textures, resulting in slightly elevated basics that were casual and comfortable.

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Hyke RTW Fall 2018

Many Tokyo brands have become known for their bright colors, extreme detailing and outlandish designs. Hyke isn’t one of them. Designed by the duo of Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara, it specializes in meticulously constructed basics with subtle modern twists, created from some of the best textiles available.
This season Ode and Yoshihara chose to reimagine classic military styles, with a particular focus on outerwear. They updated bomber jackets in oversized shapes, with fur trim or in shearling turned inside out to show the fluffy ivory fleece. But the real stars of the collection were the gorgeous coats. From the most luxurious-looking melton wool were crafted peacoats, toggle coats, double-breasted coats and belted coats. The silhouettes were oversized, with sleeves in particular often extralong and puffy.
Worn under the outerwear were slim leather pants bunched at the ankles, pleated skirts with overlays in suiting fabric, houndstooth suit jackets, thigh-high shearling leggings, rib knit tunics and simple sleeveless dresses slit up to the navel in front. Everything was done in shades of navy, gray, olive, khaki and ivory, save for two bright orange puffy jackets, which resembled flight jackets turned inside out.
Hyke also showed items from its second season collaborating with The North

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Tuberculosis rates in England fall by third in six years

But England still has one of the highest rates of the disease in Western Europe.
BBC News – Health
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Mint Designs RTW Fall 2018

Name: Mint Designs
Main message: Held in Tokyo’s Fred Perry store and serving a dual purpose as the launch of the two brands’ latest collaboration, this show had models descending dramatically down three flights of stairs while wearing patent leather boots with stilettos so high they could barely walk. Impractical footwear aside, Hokuto Katsui and Nao Yagi’s collection consisted of loose, comfortable dresses, skirts, pullovers and blouses in mixed prints and solid shades of pale aqua, red, green, yellow, purple, camel and gray. A coat that looked like it had been turned inside out, with its puffy, newspaper print lining on the outside was a standout piece.
The result: The designers are adept at mixing colors, prints and textures, and at making easy-fitting pieces look chic and stylish. While not as playful as some of their past collections, it was a solid, cohesive offering.

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Mistergentleman Men’s Fall 2018

After a two-year hiatus, Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii returned to Tokyo’s fashion week with an effortlessly cool offering that mixed dandy with outdoorsy and streetwear with tailoring. A teal blue velour suit was worn with a funnel-neck shirt and sneakers, while a plush fleece pullover topped slick patent pants in pale pink.
In what was perhaps an acknowledgement of the fact that they already have some female customers, the designers also played with traditional gender norms, sending one woman down the runway and incorporating details normally only seen in women’s collections. Shirts and a trenchcoat that seemed relatively pedestrian from the front — aside from the fact that they had no openings — were shown to be completely backless. And card holder-sized patent leather pouches were worn as tiny, colorful cross-body bags.
Osumi and Yoshii, who style their collections themselves, are known for their clever layering, but this time they often did it in a single piece. Puffer jackets had a second, cropped layer on top, while cargo pocket arm bands and half vests were attached to sweatshirts and coats. Some suit jackets and down coats had exaggerated kangaroo pockets at the front.
In a season that has been lacking in strong men’s brands —

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G.V.G.V. RTW Fall 2018

Name: G.V.G.V.
Main message: The designer who goes by the name Mug showed a psychedelic offering of relaxed wide-leg pants, sweatshirts and track jackets together with more polished shifts and shirtdresses. All were turned out in a mix of groovy prints including checkerboards, wavy stripes, zigzags, Seventies florals and polka dots, punctuated with solid shades of burnt orange, wine red, olive, khaki and purple. Accessories included thigh-high boots, fanny packs and drawstring handbags. Despite the energy of the show, it was a disappointing use of the roller rink venue, with not a single pair of skates in sight.
The result: The collection was fun and cohesive, if not particularly risky, and despite the retro theme, casual styling brought it firmly into the present.

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J Brand RTW Fall 2018

J Brand’s fall lineup was divided into three categories: Super Evening, Super Fashion and Super Color. All of it was super Nineties, putting it super on trend. There were sheer organza “jean” jacket tops and blazers and organza details on jeans, an oversize crushed velvet jacket and pants, and a minimalist ribbed cashmere slipdress. As for the actual jeans, they came high-waisted and skinny with button flies and pockets, in holographic silver and a style that zipped up the front of the leg from ankle to waist. To play up the brand’s Los Angeles roots, the look book was shot at Chateau Marmont on Jacquelyn Jablonski, styled with combat boots to emphasize the Nineties-ness of it all.

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The Dallas RTW Fall 2018

Name: The Dallas
Main message: Her brand The Dallas may only be two years old, but Fumie Tanaka is no newcomer to Japanese fashion, having worked as a designer for such major companies as United Arrows, Jun and Sazaby League. Her experience shows in her intricate knits and unconventional use of texture. She showed cozy sweaters with fringe details and sexy open backs alongside silky, layered floral dresses, sparkling metallic turtlenecks and plaid pantsuits. Outerwear included a laminated trench and billowing detective capes. Tanaka finished off the collection with her trademark leather accessories in flower shapes with long tassels.
The result: While some looks didn’t fit in and the collection would have benefited from a strong edit, it was a solid first showing from a brand that has already generated buzz.

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Ambush RTW Fall 2018

Name: Ambush
Main message: Supported by Amazon Fashion’s at Tokyo program, Ambush’s first runway show was an intimate affair that drew some of the biggest names in Japan’s fashion industry, including Chitose Abe, Jun Takahashi and Hiroshi Fujiwara. Designer Yoon Ahn drew upon her childhood growing up in Seattle to create a collection of Nineties-inspired grunge looks, with a glam allure. The floor of the venue was covered in real grass and the audience sat on wooden crates, hinting at the outdoorsy pieces that were to come. There were puffer jackets, yellow vinyl raincoats, oversized sweaters, plush joggers and cargo pants chopped off as shorts in the front.
The result: Despite all the buzz, Yoon’s collection didn’t have the individuality and edge that her coveted jewelry pieces once did, and her inexperience showed.

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Jenny Fax RTW Fall 2018

Name: Jenny Fax
Main message: Shueh Jen-Fang showed a collection that juxtaposed the childlike with the ladylike, the innocent with the sexy. Modern versions of Eighties power outfits — puff sleeve blouses with brightly colored pencil skirts — shared the runway with tent-sized pleated shirtdresses and skirts of long, rainbow-colored fringe. While it was toned down compared with some of her previous offerings, it still had her signature humor. Proportion play was a big theme, with cropped shirts shown over lace tops and shoes adorned with buckles of tiny baby shoes. A dress made with a plastic pool float in the shape of a shark proved the designer has not lost her signature irreverence.
The result: As her brand matures, Shueh Jen-Fang is beginning to show her ability to balance her own quirky Tokyo style with wearability and more commercial looks.

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Books of The Times: A New Biography Traces Tiger Woods’s Mythical Rise and Fall

Like a pair of supersleuths, Jeff Benedict and Armen Keteyian reconstruct the golfer’s life and offer new angles on old stories.
NYT > Books

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AG RTW Fall 2018

Building off the ideology of being more than a denim brand, AG has recently honed in on the expansion of wardrobe staples with reinterpreted classics. Across men’s and women’s, there was a clear workwear and utilitarian bent – a shirtdress with drawstring waist, a mechanic suit with feminine pleating, or a new “Ridge” jean for men based on traditional carpenter pants fully equipped with hammer loop and multiple pockets. The range was youthful and fun and played to the idea of cross-gender styling, where roomy turtlenecks and shirting with either oversized pockets or slightly asymmetric construction could easily be shared between men or women. Even the new “Kieran” style for women, with volume around the hip, tapered construction and slight crop, seemed appropriate for anyone. There were a few pieces strictly for each, though, as in a streamlined jumpsuit for her with wrap-front pleats at the leg that could work equally well with heels at the office or sneakers on the weekend.

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Cirque Du Soleil Performer Dies After Fall at Florida Show

Cirque du Soleil confirmed the death Sunday of Yann Arnaud, a performer who fell during a Tampa, Fla. show on Saturday night, writing in a statement posted to Twitter that although “emergency procedures were immediately activated” after the fall, Arnaud later died of his injuries at the hospital. According to the statement, Arnaud was performing […]

Variety

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Cirque du Soleil Aerialist Dies After Fatal Fall During Show

Cirque du Soleil 'Varekai' Show After falling during a performance of Cirque du Soleil’s Volta on March 17, aerialist Yann Arnaud has died as a result of his injuries.
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The Rise and Fall of Elizabeth Holmes and the Black Turtleneck

When you wear the same thing every day, it stops being a shirt and becomes a symbol.
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Beautiful People RTW Fall 2018

For the first Paris runway show of his 10-year-old Beautiful People brand, designer Hidenori Kumakiri drew on his experience in pattern-making to consider the encounter of a masculine wardrobe with the female body.
To achieve this, the Japanese designer took a cue from the tactics used to adjust garments on the go, and made them permanent by employing them as morphing methods for his shapes.
Case in point: a duffel coat with a voluminous hood looked slim-line, and its back revealed how panels had been pulled back and sewn instead of being left to be overlapped; a jacket was likewise nipped in at the waist as if it had been pulled in, but fell impeccably in the back; a trench coat wrapped diagonally around the body, with all bulk removed, and a chimney-necked knit column dress managed the feat of being at once oversized and body-skimming.
Poorly executed, this could have looked forced. As it stands, it looked as effortless as it felt fresh.

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Anaïs Jourden RTW Fall 2018

For her runway debut, Anaïs Mak wanted to show how her good girl is grown up now, with what the show notes described as a “recontextualization of the ladies-who-lunch genre.” She played with the ultimate French bourgeois staple, tweed, roughing it up with fil coupé edges in metallic pastel tones or using it on outsized down coats. While fun, the designs were overtly referential and lacking in the originality that gave Mak’s previous collections their cool-girl edge.
The Anaïs Jourden woman had a penchant for transparency, worked in tulle adorned with tinsellike tufts and metallic grid patterns on Mak’s signature ruched dresses, or as pointillist lace cycling shorts that did little to flatter the form.
Among the stronger looks, an allover tassel fabric had more of an impact on a black satin background, for example, as a one-shouldered cocktail dress with a contrasting burgundy lace under layer. Coming of age is tough, and everyone has a right to an awkward teenage moment.

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Chanel RTW Fall 2018

“Darling, it’s a fitting.” So said Karl Lagerfeld in response to Amanda Harlech’s unsolicited opinion that a particular look worked better without sunglasses. Ultimately, Lagerfeld agreed, and au revoir, eyewear.
A preview chez Chanel is like no other experience. Lagerfeld conducts fittings in his studio on Rue Cambon, where he sits at his desk cluttered with books, jewelry trays, perhaps an iPad or two, a glass of water in Lalique stemware. All of his team involved in producing the show bustle about, variously escorting models from the dressing room; suggesting sunglasses; adjusting hair and makeup; presenting a range of colorful leather glove choices; retrieving handbags from a vast grouping on the floor. Lagerfeld receives you in the midst of it all. What he doesn’t do is disrupt the process for the visit. Rather, he welcomes guests into it, fashion’s most accomplished multitasker alternating focus from model to staffers to interloping journalists. Hence, his quip to Harlech, followed by a reference to his most recent take-your-breath-away set: ”It’s a forest. You will see.”
With the Chanel supermarket, art gallery and casino in the rearview mirror, recently Lagerfeld has been getting in touch with his inner Thoreau and embracing the natural world. He’s gone under

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Paul & Joe RTW Fall 2018

Long before vintage became the preferred source for inspiration, Sophie Mechaly was already showing her magpie eye with a mixed wardrobe appealing to a louche Lolita with a long and lean silhouette.
Standouts included the black-and-white coat that opened the show, a pink-gold shearling jacket, a long blazer peppered with crystals along the shoulders — Mechaly wore a version of this to the previous night’s dinner at the Elysée presidential palace — and a shirt styled with a scarf tucked into the neck and paired with sleek white trousers.
Where the flirty mood felt most awkward was in the cartoon characters strewn across some outfits that jarred against the sultry looks, like say, a floor-length see-through dress that left nothing to the imagination. To be fair, there was plenty to look at here, and retail-wise, the recipe should continue to prove successful.

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Enfants Riches Déprimés RTW Fall 2018

Henri Alexandre focused on the details for his fall collection, which adhered to the label’s aesthetic: a bit punk, quite “rich depressed kid” — in keeping with the label’s name — and rather wearable.
“If it doesn’t look good on, it’s wrong, it’s a failure,” said Alexandre, lifting a piece he made to satisfy a personal longing —  a red suit jacket. A pair of trousers were tailored just so, narrower at the bottom to make a pair of pointy-toed shoes look good.
There weren’t any jeans this season “because I’m over jeans,” he explained. The designer instead  focused on his current favorite, cargo pants, which he made with a Japanese nylon material. He also added a suspender strap in black seatbelt material, which carried the logo, in a discreet black-on-black. Images included a drawing he made of a boy cutting off a girl’s ear, which was reproduced as embroidery.

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Cacharel RTW Fall 2018

Designers at Cacharel trotted out a breezy lineup of floral prints for fall, in all shapes and sizes, employing them in a mission to appeal to a younger crowd.
A sleek, leather coat with wide sleeves carried a butterfly wing on one side, while chunky knit sweaters had a bright pansy on a shoulder. Small pansies formed a pattern for a blouse, gloves and a jacket. The logo was another feature, appearing larger and thus a bit louder on a blue blouse, in white lettering.
Highlighting accessories, the brand also introduced a new felt cap, fashioned after a riding helmet. The season reflected the house’s efforts to reposition itself. Executives at the label declined to reveal the identity of the design team, but said the brand has been increasing the amount of business it generates outside France.

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Fall Out Boy, G-Eazy, More to Headline Anti-Gun Violence Concert

Fall Out Boy, G-Eazy, Bebe Rexha, Lizzo and others will headline a concert that will support the March for Our Lives rallies and benefit Everytown for Gun Safety and Gabby Giffords’ Courage to Fight Gun Violence. The show, taking place at the Anthem in Washington DC on March 23, will “amplify” stories from survivors of gun violence […]

Variety

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Louis Vuitton RTW Fall 2018

Like many brands, Louis Vuitton has found itself embroiled in the #MeToo conversation in recent months.
Its latest brand ambassador, Emma Stone, is among the backers of the Time’s Up movement against sexual harassment, and drew attention at the Oscars as much for her pointed remarks onstage as for her bold choice of wearing a Vuitton trouser suit instead of the traditional red carpet gown.
Parallel to that, the brand has quietly distanced itself from two of its campaign photographers, Patrick Demarchelier and Bruce Weber, who are among several industry figures accused of sexual misconduct. Both have denied the allegations, and Vuitton has not commented on the issue.
What that has to do with the collection that Nicolas Ghesquière showed at the Louvre — with Stone among the front-row guests — is debatable, though the subject wove itself into a backstage conversation, with the designer saying that discussion about the rights of women is now part of the daily conversation at Vuitton’s design studio.
“It’s a dialogue we have all the time,” Ghesquière said after the show. “Everyone is concerned and wants to make it good.” Ghesquière felt it also transpired in the clothes. He has been thinking of women in general — not

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Wendy Jim RTW Fall 2018

Helga Ruthner and Hermann Fankhauser waited until guests were comfortably settled into their seats, wondering when the models would arrive. That’s when everyone was summoned into a back hallway to see the clothing. Models mingled, cordoned off from the crowd, while an authoritative voice commanded people to move along: “Please, move faster!” It was a play on the red carpet and those instants of fame that flare up suddenly, then disappear.
The collection had spunk, infused with neon work gear and reflective strips, paired with brown loafers dipped in bright yellow, or white. There was also a wild surfer-flower pattern — vintage Eighties, used to make a smock dress, with a prim white collar.
The pair was happy to be back in Paris, where the buyers convene and infrastructure is geared for the shows. The audience is receptive, too, they added.
They were thirsty for color this season, not just for personal reasons but also in reaction to the times. Fashion is a filter, noted Ruthner, recalling Helmut Lang’s insistence on this point.
Ponchos were prevalent, modern and technical, in dual color combinations like gray and green or printed with an Eiffel tower camouflaged with branches. A female model had a breast exposed, a male

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Racil RTW Fall 2018

Racil Chalhoub is branching out into suits. The designer, known for her tuxedos, said she always knew she’d go for color when venturing into suit territory, and indeed, hers came in a rainbow ranging from red and bright pink to yellow, green and blue.
They livened up the Hemingway Bar of the Ritz as models sipped drinks with flowers poking out of the glasses. Chalhoub was clearly moved. This was the first time the bar had been privatized — though she didn’t reveal what strings were pulled to land her favorite evening spot — and her first time using models to present the clothing.
Though inspired by classic Hollywood beauties like Marlene Dietrich, Vivien Leigh, Ava Gardner and Rita Hayworth, the collection was geared toward modern women.
Trousers were trim and high-waisted, or wide and straight-leg. Jackets similarly ran the gamut from fitted, for the double-breasted models, to wider, for the single-breasted ones. It made for a fun and fancy lineup of tasteful glamour.

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Ioannes RTW Fall 2018

For fall, Johannes Boehl Cronau offered up a contemporary lineup with a masculine-feminine blend that brushed away traditional codes of hierarchy. A short, patterned skirt was engulfed by a bulky-knit sweater, while a cropped puffer coat with a flower motif completed a dressy look, paired with loose, gray trousers.
The designer swapped last season’s chunky-heeled opened-toed boots for cowboy mules, playing with the height of their heels. Gloves rose nearly to the shoulders, puffing out at the top of the arm like fancy sleeves.
With Virginia Woolf’s “Orlando” in mind, Cronau said he set out to empower women. The designer’s modern interpretation included minimalist silky dresses, exposed midriffs and deconstructed trenchcoats.
 

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Celts’ Brown avoided further damage in fall

Celtics forward Jaylen Brown sustained only a concussion and avoided any additional structural injuries after his scary fall from the rim during Thursday’s win in Minnesota.
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Joie RTW Fall 2018

For fall, Rachel Wilder-Hill equipped her English rose with some vintage Victoriana infused with rock ‘n’ roll vibes. She offered a range of dressy blouses with high collars and long cuffs and played with volume on the sleeves, adding extra puff.
A red, asymmetric leather skirt was designed to be paired with one of these blouses, with a loose sweater on top and white, slouchy boots. The boots were also matched with a pale pink jumpsuit that had dark stitching.
The Eighties influence — a strong presence throughout the collection — also extended to a pair of leather pants with a high paper-bag waist. Back on the romantic front, Wilder-Hill applied a delicate hand-painted flower print to a long, flowing dress and suggested it be paired with something more masculine, like a sweater. The mix-and-match line offered a sharp look for the L.A.-based label’s urban customer.

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Space firm in transition as profits fall

Perched just off the south-eastern corner of famous “Silicon Roundabout”, at the heart of the UK’s burgeoning tech start-up scene, you can find the headquarters of a company that is one of the standard-bearers of the UK’s space industry.
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Leal Daccarett RTW Fall 2018

For fall, Leal Daccarett returned to its roots as providers of dresses that rise to any occasion. The husband-and-wife team focused on providing an evening-heavy wardrobe befitting a social butterfly. The designs featured an abundance of embellishments — embroideries, bows, feathers — and volume play in a tight palette of black, white and red. Francisco Leal cited the colonial past of Colombia and its push for independence as the inspiration for the season. Highlights included tops with raw edges, poplin shirts festooned with sleeves held closed by bows and a cape in contrasting tweeds inspired by the traditional Colombian ruana cape. The looks didn’t come across as what one would pick up for a regular day outfit, but Francisco Leal said that they liked to imagine “our woman brushing her teeth and slipping on a gown without effort.”

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Situationist RTW Fall 2018

Irakli Rusadze offered a sleek lineup of original and sophisticated silhouettes for fall. Presenting in the Palais de Tokyo contemporary art museum, the designer showed his clothing against a backdrop of artwork from fellow Georgians of his generation, including gender-bending portraits and protest graffiti.
But that’s where the youthful ingenuity ended: Rusadze’s collection was a mature exhibit of highly skilled tailoring. Eye-catching leather pieces included a round-shouldered coat in a reddish brown, paired with trim trousers. Men were dressed in military-style suits, with wide shoulders and a cropped waist.
Also displayed was a rack of pieces made from the same white cloth, the better to emphasize the shapes of the clothing. Rusadze only works with all natural materials such as cotton, wool and leather; transferred to these rich fabrics, the clothing rose to a new level.

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Boon the Shop RTW Fall 2018

Now in its third season, and the first one open to international wholesale clients, South Korean luxury multibrand store Boon the Shop’s eponymous label offered a mix of high-end staples, ranging from tailored trousers to lightweight fur coats.
The brand’s Paris-based design atelier took inspiration from the American West and women such as Georgia O’Keefe for fall, calling attention to the craftsmanship underpinning each design for a collection in which its strong outerwear balanced heritage while offering on-trend yet functional shapes.
For its staple items, the accent was placed on basics in natural high-end fibers — cashmere, flannel, suiting — while on coats and cold weather options, lightness and warmth were achieved simultaneously in feather-light mink cardigans or shearling blazers through different means, such as the use of specialty furrier and leather-working techniques, or transformable options.
Among the standouts were a coat that had panels that could unzip and be looped around as a scarf, trousers with contrasting bands along the outer leg that unsnapped like track bottoms, shirts that could have their sleeves removed, all forming the kind of neutral base that slots in alongside more trend-driven brands on the luxury floor.

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Tsumori Chisato Fetes Anniversary Book, Fall Lineup in Paris

TIME TRAVELS: Tsumori Chisato rolled it all in one, throwing a party to celebrate her 25th anniversary book and presenting her fall collection in a cheerful two-floor space in the Marais neighborhood in Paris. Her label is actually a few years older than 25, but it took a bit longer to get the book finished. The decades have flown, noted the active Japanese designer, known for her extensive travels.
“It feels very short, time is so fast,” she said.
Upstairs was a retrospective of her pieces; a dress worn by Vanessa Paradis on the front of a magazine sat in one corner. Another dress had a large owl embroidered on the front, stitched with yarn: “From my travels to Sweden,” Chisato said.
In the next room, a fan from Italy flipped through the book, published by Rizzoli and written by Chisato and Helena Christensen. She discovered an image of the dress she was wearing in the book, and pointed it out to Chisato, catching looks from other guests who were surprised to hear the blonde woman speak Japanese. “We’ve been friends for years, I know her from Rome,” Chisato explained.
Guests nibbled on wasabi and pea hummus and wandered around the space, which was livened up with

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Paule Ka RTW Fall 2018

For fall, Paule Ka offered sequins, cashmere and lots of ivory, symbolic of the label’s transition. Founder Serge Cajfinger recently returned to provide guidance after ownership switched hands from a private equity owner to French businessman Xavier Marie.
The clothes were displayed in the Paris showroom on Rue Saint-Honoré, a contemporary mix of smart and cozy garments, with a measured dose of glamour. Diane Keaton was the reference for jackets carrying a double-breasted Eighties silhouette. Diana Ross was also cited. Double-sided sequins, shiny silver on one side, matte copper on the other, added texture to thigh-high boots and a sexy jumpsuit.
A splash of mustard yellow came in the form of a luxurious, velvet suit and pattern was provided by a panther jacquard. The sleekness of the clothing subdued the jazzier aspects, but that was partly the message: keep an eye out for what’s next. The label is expected to name a new designer as it marks its upcoming 30th anniversary this year.

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Joseph RTW Fall 2018

Louise Trotter introduced interesting, new elements to the luxurious Joseph universe by exploring the bounds of attractiveness. In the most striking example, she covered a pair of pointy, leather boots with a blue layer of plastic, invoking cheap, throwaway foot covers for travelers.
Autumn tones were mixed with synthetic colors like neon yellow, and high-end fabrics were layered with a plastic coating. “I explored where good taste and bad taste meet,” she explained.
The fabrics were rich, down to the details: fine wool threads were twisted to provide rigidity, and synthetic threads were woven into silk. Trotter subverted classic fabrics as well, using a thick cotton gabardine, suitable for outerwear, to make a shirt.
A chunky hand-knit thick-ribbed sweater was paired with a long, pleated skirt, in an electric blue. The overall result of this investigation? Most of the pieces landed on the attractive side of the equation.

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Yazbukey Stages Pajama Party to Present Fall Accessories

PROPER PAMPERING: Yazbukey staged a flirty party to show off her fall collection of accessories and more — the designer is branching out and selling pillowcases, slippers and pajamas, too. She had all the essentials: white bathrobes, matching wedge heels and slices of plastic pizza. The cast of characters included the muscled porn star François Sagat and a Madonna-like Dyna Dagger with teased out blond hair and big eyelashes. The set? A very wide bed with white covers and pillowcases decorated with big red lips, the Yazbukey signature. The doorbell rang constantly, heralding the arrival of new partygoers who strutted around the stage with accessories from the label: lipstick shaped necklaces and rings, earrings in the form of a pipe or a pair of legs and an eye mask that said “not now.”
The designer was emerging from the loss of her dog Victor, which prompted heavy consumption of junk food, Champagne and movies, she explained after the show, lifting a plastic glass of Champagne. The program notes were sprinkled with messages that also appeared on silky pajamas:
“Grow your hair and stay in bed,” “Stress less, more sex” and “Relax.”

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Alanui RTW Fall 2018

Launched as a brand focused on a single product — a luxury cardigan infused with a free-spirited, boho-chic vibe — Alanui is rapidly expanding to offer knitwear-centered ready-to-wear collections.
Along with introducing several variations of its signature cashmere cardigan — which this season was embellished with a range of jacquard motifs, from a Lurex leopard pattern to images of moons, stars and yin and yang symbols — siblings Carlotta and Nicolò Oddi presented coordinated knitted pants trimmed with fringe, alpaca sweaters and cropped knitted tops showing geometric hems.
The eye-catching lineup also included new outerwear designs, spanning from a color-blocked coat with fringe on the hood to a reversible padded bomber showing one face in silk printed with a paisley pattern.

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Eleanor Balfour RTW Fall 2018

Eleanor Balfour’s take on party dressing was influenced by the on-the-go lifestyle of a generation full of freelancers, she said at her Paris presentation. The British-born, Central Saint Martins-trained and New York-based designer mixed dressy options with tailored pieces, and dotted the lineup with removable details.
Citing Ghanaian sculptor El Anatsui as an inspiration for the season, she showed a lineup that played on man-made fabrics — fun fur, “vegan leather,” woven textiles — and added wearable echoes of his “bottle-top” flexible sculptures made of thousands of strips of post-consumer metal as ruché sleeves or in gathers down the front of a slip dress.
Balfour meant her lineup as “occasionwear, when a girl needs an outfit that sets her apart without being a classic cocktail dress,” she said at her showroom. That wouldn’t be hard in a one-shouldered dress that transformed into a sexy slip by shucking a layer off. But there were also outfits that would work around the clock.
One trenchcoat was a mix of fake fur and pleather with a muffler-like separate hood. A double-breasted jacket in an urbane pinstripe had a utilitarian pocket, while velvet trousers had a removable belt that could be worn as a belt bag. There

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Céline RTW Fall 2018

Phoebe Philo has left the building and Hedi Slimane has yet to enter at Céline, but the shipments must go on. The fall collection was a What Would Phoebe Do special designed by her team, which broke down into highly commercial pieces that could have been left over from last spring. An ivory knit dress was gathered into bunches fastened with what looked like big bangles in ribbed white resin and gold. Scarf dresses with abstract prints were draped and tied into loose knots around the body, forming a pretty schmatta silhouette. A burgundy leather coat had a weird cape top and there were witchy-chic boots and versions of earthy-glam jewelry that’s in Céline stores now. Philo’s devotees have one more season to get her look, but she took her fairy dust with her.

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Shiatzy Chen RTW Fall 2018

Wang Chen Tsai-Hsia sent out a more tempered take on her brand’s East-meets-West DNA, and all the better for it.
The direction skewed in a younger, sportier direction, which speaks to what the sophisticated on-the-move clientele she’s developed over the years — such as Michelle Yeoh, seated front row — is after.
Take the line’s embroidered silk souvenir jacket — here paired with a tiered lace dress and pointy cowboy-style boots — which would go equally well with an everyday outfit or on top of a dress for the red carpet.
The material experimentation also added a more modern edge, from the textured metallic full skirts to the white rubber macs worn over dresses. Shearling jackets had tar-black laminated surfaces, and bands of lace politely interrupted a casual striped knit.
An embroidered black coat with leather sleeves and a skirt of glistening black cock feathers was particularly striking.
Urban updates on the down jacket — another one of the season’s staples — revisited as a quilted black blouson with a yellow zipper or black and blue tartan coat with buttons — looked fresh. By contrast, the middle group of silk looks in a mix of prints added years to the collection.
Nods to the label’s homeland formed

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Givenchy RTW Fall 2018

The visceral Eighties. Fashion loves it this season, including Clare Waight Keller, who built her collection after viewing “The Hunger,” and also “B-Movie: Lust & Sound in West Berlin,” a documentary about the music and club scene in Berlin at a watershed moment. “It’s from early Eighties New Wave, before the wall came down and through that period when the wall came down,” Waight Keller said backstage before showing her Givenchy collection. Her idea was “this sort of cross of the cultures between the bourgeois and the dangerous. There is a sort of tension.”
Together, bloody, sexy vampirism and that particular, gritty segment of Berlin culture provide plenty of tension-packed grist. Yet whenever a designer mines such intense material, or, for that matter, commits to virtually any retro inspiration, deft examination becomes essential: How much thematic cribbing is necessary to make the point, and conversely, how much is too much? All the more so when the shtick involved is Eighties, an era so easily lampooned.
This was Waight Keller’s challenge. Probably wisely, she chose to hold back rather than explode her motif, setting the bourgeois mood from the start with a series of big, in-your-face period furs, literal except now they’re faux. (Waight Keller

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Marimekko RTW Fall 2018

Marimekko’s design team chose to highlight the Finnish label’s ability with prints once more by importing a selection of silk screens and using them as the backdrop for its Paris presentation.
It was like a life-sized game of Snap, matching the patterns on the screens with the motifs on the models, who walked in a circle within a former print workshop in Paris’ Drouot neighborhood.
The designs were just as much fun as a good card game, and equally provided a mood boost for the rainy day outside. Their bright signature motifs, in organic florals or graphic stripes, were worked in a palette encompassing forest green, purple, red and blue and largely given loose fits and strong lines, although a couple of the dresses had a more folksy influence. A streetwise touch was added with ample leather pieces like wide black pants and an outsized purple shirt and skirt combo.
New to the lineup this season were printed velvet palazzo pants and a graphic wood-block motif in black and white. The label’s Kissapöllö print from the Sixties, with its owl-eye pattern, was worked in black and gold jacquard — a first for the label — on a coat with knee-high boots to match.

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Akris RTW Fall 2018

Add Albert Kriemler to the pack of designers mining periods when the role of women was in flux. But he dialed back more than 100 years to the Vienna Secession period, arguing that Gustav Klimt liberated women from the corset in his paintings before Parisian couturiers, and that Egon Schiele devised an expression of beauty that is relevant today. “It was groundbreaking in this case and we’re in a moment for women again,” Kriemler said.
Giant Schiele drawings formed the backdrop for his fall show, lending the vivid blues for the opening look, while Klimt’s gilded touch saturated his terrific metallic shearling vest and a glistening kangaroo robe coat.
This was a handsome and polished collection, steeped in luxury and hinged on looser silhouettes, echoing the kimono and robe shapes worn by the bourgeois and bohemian women in the Madame d’Ora portraits he tucked into his press kit.
Meaty, batwing cardigans coats and buttonless double-face toppers had a languid allure, interspersed with taut leather coatdresses, slim sheaths in St. Gallen embroideries and sumptuous reversible shearlings, one a mesmerizing mottle of black and deep blue.
The clothes looked expensive and easy to wear, exalting the quote by architect Otto Wagner also tucked in the press kit:

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Alexis Mabille RTW Fall 2018

Alexis Mabille named his fall collection “French Kiss,” for the kind of flirty, elegant creations that women worldwide have come to identify with Parisian style.
There was a casual elegance to his signature tuxedo-inspired creations, such as a satin lapel sleeveless wrap dress worn over a crisp white shirt, or a silk side tie jacket paired with fluid track pants. Skirts and sleeves came with sculptural ruffles that could be removed with the help of small buttons.
There were Seventies touches, such as elevated poncho dresses and lace-trimmed tunic tops worn with wide pants. Throughout, Mabille deployed a vivid palette of jewel tones, printing oversize images of cut gemstones on silky drawstring dresses and blouses with pointy sleeves.
“I think that psychologically, color is like a therapy,” he explained. Or as a fictional magazine editor once said: “Think pink!”

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Redemption RTW Fall 2018

Gabriele “Bebe” Moratti went to town for fall — to Paris that is. Describing Redemption’s endeavor for the season as a “Love Letter to Paris,” he sent out an offering that was heavy on the glitz, moving away from the more grungy feel of the past couple of seasons.
A panoply of ostentatious fabrics, from giant houndstooth designs in all-over sequins to lurex jacquard motifs, paraded down the runway on bustier dresses and tuxedos to a soundtrack of French classics from artists like Charles Aznavour and Edith Piaf.
Flowing silk and georgette and crepe halter-neck dresses in black, red or regal purple were regularly punctuated at the waist with diamanté cummerbunds or paired with felt fedoras and ankle boots.
In a less dressed up register, there were wide-hipped leather pants and some fun dungarees, their workwear shape providing a quirky contrast when worked in shimmering black velvet or as a black leather playsuit.
This was all topped off by a multiplicity of fake-fur coats in an array of hues from deep purple to yellow and even in a giant houndstooth pattern.
Moratti said the fall collection was put together in just four weeks since pre-fall was presented in January, and that he is planning to focus

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Isabel Marant RTW Fall 2018

Isabel Marant did not invent the cowboy boot. Nor is she responsible for its newfound fashion relevance — that is owed to Raf Simons at Calvin Klein and a bit to Clare Waight Keller at Givenchy. But it will be by Marant’s hand that Western boots — specifically, the steel-toed booties and robust thigh-high styles from her fall show — will be on the feet of trend-absorbing, fashion-loving women far and wide next season. If cowboy boots were a stock, now would be the time to buy in.
Her Western-inspired fall show was a barn-burner of very hot fashion, a display of Marant’s razor sharp instincts for what a broad swath of women — and now men, too — want out of their clothes: a sense of freedom, comfort, sexiness, sophistication and fun. Even before “Jolene” came on the soundtrack and got toes tapping on the plywood floor, it was obvious there was a Southwestern charm to the lineup. The first model out was Anna Ewers — nothing between her short blanket-striped trench with a sharp leather collar and tawny cowboy booties but her toned legs. A Seventies brown-and-black fur jacket with shiny leather lapels and long fringe that might’ve belonged

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Yang Li RTW Fall 2018

The dates 1987-2087 embroidered on shoes and emblazoned across the chest hinted at a hundred years of Yang Li and looked ominous in the 16th-century Gothic Saint-Merri church. The mood was as dark and punky at this “otherworldly funeral-esque show,” as the London-based designer coined it, and the collection was a backward glance at the life and times of Yang Li since 1987.
As any shrewd heir would, he has sifted through the estate of seasons past for valuables. Backstage passes of seasons past dangled from bags, a collaboration with Austrian performance outdoor gear KTC. His “ghost jackets,” with their detached lining acting as backpack straps, trailed as capelets. The “our aim is wakefulness/our enemy is dreamless sleep” motto — Li has the words tattooed on him — were a nod to summer 2015 and his hookup with Genesis P-orridge. Right down to the pose, the bustier dress of look 24 was a dead-but-evolved ringer for the opening look of his inaugural Parisian show for spring 2014.
But Li wasn’t coasting on past achievements. Tailoring was still a strong suit and raw seams showed his construction work.
His modus operandi remains taking hardworking fabrics and elevating them in layered re-creations that played heavily on seam

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Dries Van Noten Fall 2018 RTW

Thank you, Dries! On Wednesday afternoon, within the gilded majesty of the Hotel de Ville, Dries Van Noten sent a compelling reminder that sometimes the pure fashion experience is enough. It was an important message at a time when many designers are utilizing their runways to wax profound about our complicated, polarized world, rife with dissonance and changing mores and worldviews. That’s great; fashion must reflect its times.
But speaking to the moment doesn’t only mean mining its dark side. Once upon a time, fashion was good for what ailed you. Bottom line, that remains its primary purpose. Fashion can’t right the world’s ills, but it can provide necessary moments of respite: enticement, enchantment, the thought that I might look my very best in this or that dress.
That’s what Van Noten’s collection was all about: clothes to love, and more importantly, to love yourself in. “It really [addresses] the free spirit with free hands, no boundaries just, like, go for it,” Van Noten said during a preview.
No boundaries, perhaps, but savvy awareness of fashion’s current realities. Hence the integration of utilitarian sportswear in high-tech materials. But rather than clobber you with it, Van Noten integrated it into his signature masculine-feminine dialogue,

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Marine Serre RTW Fall 2018

It’s been a heady six months for Marine Serre. Since winning the LVMH Prize for Young Designers last June, she’s quit her day job at Balenciaga and expanded the team behind her fledgling label. To say her runway debut was highly anticipated would be an understatement.
Among the guests who braved sub-zero temperatures to attend the show were Michèle Lamy, the wife and muse of Rick Owens, and Adrian Joffe of Comme des Garçons International and Dover Street Market.
Serre called the collection “Manic Soul Machine” and used the clothes to reflect on this point in the fashion cycle. “I think it means what I have lived these last six months and what probably fashion is today. So that’s it: Manic Soul Machine. We are all machines, right? I hope I keep my soul,” she said backstage.
Jackets and pants, some bearing a Futurewear logo, featured utility pockets for stashing an iPhone, water bottle or lipstick — fashion’s version of an emergency survival kit. Serre built lightweight protective layers from elements of activewear, moiré taffeta and second-hand scarves.
Her signature crescent moon pattern, which has its roots in Islamic culture, appeared on flesh-colored balaclavas and catsuits. The masks covered the mouth like a niqab,

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Iceberg RTW Fall 2018

James Long’s vision for Iceberg was crystal clear and blunt enough to sink the Titanic all over again: Streetwear currency of the in-your-face logo, Pop collaboration — Mickey Mouse — and influencer/hip-hop variety. His entire collection was maxed out on basic ath-leisure merch: puffers, track suits, sporty sweaters, shopping bag totes with the Iceberg logo slapped on wherever possible. The audience was stocked with guys and girls who seemed like the selfie-loving types Long seemed hellbent on targeting in the interest of imbuing Iceberg with social currency. Will it work? Who knows, but fake it till you make it, as they say.

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Piazza Sempione RTW Fall 2018

A focus on fine tailoring, knitwear and sharp separates has paid off, with strong looks coming out of this presentation held at the frescoed and gilded Palazzo Visconti. Standouts included a cashmere ribbed sweater shaped like motorcycle jacket with a scarf detail at the neck and a chunky two-tone scarf in cinnamon and gray.
Tailoring was on target and included a cobalt check double-breasted suit with a long jacket and cropped flare trousers. Jackets and a dark red peacoat came with flashes of leopard under the collar, while pajama suits looked simultaneously sharp and comfortable with loose tops and wide, flat-front trousers.
Fox-fur jackets and vests, some in dark blue, added a shot of luxe to the collection, which has been building momentum under its owner Sinv SpA.
Piazza Sempione has a new design team and retail concept that recently made its debut at The Mall at Short Hills in New Jersey. The company said the U.S. generates 60 percent of turnover, and there is great potential ahead in that market and internationally.

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Oh Snap! Jenner’s tweet sees Snapchat shares fall

A tweet by Kylie Jenner led to a $ 1.3bn (£930m) fall in the value Snap Inc, the parent company of Snapchat.
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Ermanno Scervino RTW Fall 2018

This glamorous — and wearable — collection was all about shaking up old favorites like the camel coat, the tartan trouser suit and the biker boot. “The ingredients may look familiar, but nothing here is classic,” said the dapper Scervino, who wore a gray pinstripe flannel suit, and chunky white sneakers, to take his bow.
Scervino spliced the masculine with the feminine and fiddled with proportions to great effect: There was a lineup of tailored tartan suits with wide-leg trousers paired with stiletto heels — or sneakers — while classic coats were born again with a more laid-back attitude. A camel one with a big fur collar was oversized — and had a Twenties vibe — while a bright pink wool one came with a Breton striped and flowered sweater layered on top.
The designer paired short, tweed mannish jackets or tartan overcoats with his signature fluttery organza ruffle gowns, and put a new spin on biker boots, pulling them over the knee and doing them in shearling, bright orange or croc-embossed leather. This collection was not as elaborate — or as evening-focused — as past ones, but Scervino proved that despite his suit and white pocket square, his sneaker-clad feet can

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Agnona RTW Fall 2018

Agnona creative director Simon Holloway worked a color cosmetic-inspired palette into an ultra-luxe collection of knitwear and outerwear that was all about “a soft and powerful way to get dressed today — ultra-feminine and sensual,” the designer said. He had looked at pictures from Agnona’s in-house magazines from the Sixties and Seventies, and also cast his eyes on “Blade Runner,” which was made in 1982, for inspiration.
Holloway created a dusty rose puffer/cashmere hybrid coat, a double-faced cashmere one the color of cotton candy, and a long burgundy knit with patent leather pockets and details. Fuzzy dégradé coats came in rich burgundies and browns. There were knit dresses galore — a drapey taupe creation, a faded pink turtleneck midi-dress, and a long navy blue number with a deep V-neck. These were dresses that could work as easily at a cocktail party as on the sofa for  binge-watching the latest Netflix crime series.
Holloway’s pieces won’t be hard to find: Agnona is on a retail roll, having opened an apartment earlier this month on Berlin’s Kurfürstendamm. The concept-driven shop presents the collection in an environment blending fashion, design and Italian culture. The brand is also set to move to London’s Mayfair, soon: A lease

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Marco de Vincenzo RTW Fall 2018

Anyone with even the mildest couch-potato inclinations is acquainted with the trauma of being engrossed by your favorite TV show, only to be cruelly interrupted by a loud beep and the dreaded rainbow of test-pattern stripes. No signal. Now what to do?
Marco de Vincenzo channeled that experience into his fall collection, working with the idea of forced disconnection and how it opens your eyes to the pleasures all around you. He was drawing on the TV-viewing memories of his childhood. But “this is a very modern story,” he insisted backstage. “We are always connected and sometimes we need to experiment with life simply by living.” To that end, he cast a charming, fresh perspective on items and concepts that are familiar, not only to his brand — vivid color, texture, a vaguely retro, very Italian hand — but to the everyday wardrobe as well.
The rainbow test patterns were reimagined as glittered stripes on a lame shirtdress with a ruffled hem, a giant duvet coat and puffer wrap, and down the backside of black pants that were plain in front. There was a sweetness and naivete to school uniform plaids done as extra-wide bell-bottoms and apron dresses; likewise to cozy cardigans

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Etro RTW Fall 2018

Some one-liners grab your attention. For example: “If Ettore Sottsass and Laura Ingalls worked together,” which Veronica Etro mused backstage before her show on Friday. If the thought of that imaginary union didn’t grab you, you could ponder the series of foot-high, tabletop paper-sculpture dresses and tops with major graphics that could have resulted from collaboration between, well, Ettore Sottsass and Laura Ingalls — assuming she was crafty. Do we know for sure?
Despite her gentle demeanor, Etro’s penchant for pattern runs deep — it’s in the genes — and she is bullish, sometimes to the point of overstatement, in its ebullient invocation. For fall, she boasted, everything was plotted out with mathematical precision — yet slyly so. The range never turned clinical as Etro invoked an amalgam of references, ticking off Art Deco, Memphis, arts-and-crafts, the “wild western land of endless horizons” (or maybe Patagonia or Peru), “handmade earthiness and rigorous post-modernism.” If you studied the array of optics in play, you could pull out allusions to each, none literal, all zesty, with the prevailing mood a non-specific American Southwest vibe with a touch of boho.
As the models walked out, one after another — crafty collage-print dress under multi-striped coat

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Mr & Mrs Italy RTW Fall 2018

Fur may be a touchy subject in some territories, but that’s only driven the creative team into overdrive at Mr & Mrs Italy, the Italian brand that made its name with army-style parkas trimmed and lined with electric bright fur. While colorful fluff remains at the core of this collection, the brand has also introduced a smorgasbord of alternatives for fall, including fur-free puffer jackets, embroidered bombers with velvet linings, long street-inspired puffer/parka hybrids, and wool coats with plastic-y waterproofed surfaces.
On the fur front, there were reversible jackets done in waterproof cotton, a snow-white puffer edged with tufts of Mongolian lamb, a suede biker jacket with a shaggy Mongolian collar and a shearling coat in screaming orange. The London-based Italian designer Antonio Berardi has been working with the brand and this season created some jazzy shearlings, including one with a serpent writhing on the back and another with punkish graffiti letters.

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Fabiana Filippi RTW Fall 2018

Fabiana Filippi expanded its offer for fall, with looks suited for a cocktail or a special occasion, and with the introduction at the same time of the “My Private Life” collection to “communicate more times with customers with capsules,” explained co-chief executive officer Mario Filippi Coccetta. This comprised a group of easy and soft loungewear looks in the spirit of the brand.
While the label’s core cashmere designs were still central to the lineup, there was a new group of corduroy belted pantsuits that looked fresh. Nothing was constricting — pants were roomy and jackets felt like cardigans. Case in point: a silver velvet pantsuit worn under a shearling cape in the same hue. And for evening, a long black dress with a voile neckline and sleeves will do the trick.

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Herno RTW Fall 2018

Herno’s standout design for fall was a mohair bouclé coat spray-painted with a pop effect in bright tones ranging from yellow to purple. Throughout the collection, the color palette was intriguing, including mauve and azure, often lit up by Lurex threads and contrasting with the simple and minimal A-shaped models.
A sporty shearling was presented in a patchwork pattern or in an ecological version. There were also technological materials such as Neoprene with metallic yarns. A classic cashmere knit was revised with a needle punching technique. Coats had a Sixties, Jackie O. feel and capes flanked more street-style sweatshirts.
The company also introduced Herno Iconico, a selection of 10 ultralight nylon down jackets that have marked the history of the brand.
The effect was sophisticated and joyful, sure to brighten up a damp and gray Milanese day.

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Gucci RTW Fall 2018

“I’m very tired.” Alessandro Michele opened his 20-minute post-show press conference with a warning that he might not have much to say. He then went on to address self-creation and re-creation (“We are the Dr. Frankenstein of our lives”), why he titled his Gucci show “Cyborg” after Donna Haraway’s 1984 essay, “A Cyborg Manifesto,” (“Prophetic….She describes the relationship between being and becoming”), whether his work is best understood via a grounding in Catholicism (“I am a lover of the divine. I would celebrate the gods of Olympus rather than our Catholic sanctities”), and why oh why can’t people be the parents of dragons?
Heady stuff? Did I mention that two models carried their own heads as accessories? (OK, pretend heads, but still.) The heads “represented the struggle…all the teenagers make, even people my own age, trying to develop their personality, to nourish their mind deeply.”
The show thus referenced was as weird as it sounds, and even more wonderful than weird. After last season’s in the foggy-dark-under-strobe-lights-you-can’t-see-the-clothes show, for fall, Michele showed in the ultimate of pristine surroundings — an operating room, all surgical green and white lights — installed in the show space of Gucci’s grandly idiosyncratic headquarters far from the

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Paula Knorr RTW Fall 2018

German designer Paula Knorr was in a reflective mood and wanted to return to her roots for fall. She focused on glamorous eveningwear — something she designed when she was studying for her MA at Royal College of Art. She moved away from toying with the conventions of dressing up in an experimental way and elevated her range in a more grown-up way with shimmery, slinky and bodycon dresses.
“I thought a lot about intimacy and what it means in clothes, especially for women,” Knorr said. “It’s all based on this idea that you create a garment that helps the body to shine as well as hugs the body and on some parts and it is covered.”
Held at the BFC Show Space at 180 Strand, a diverse group of models stood and walked around a glittery backdrop as jazz singer Laura Totenhagen recited phrases from Maya Angelou’s “Phenomenal Woman.”
The London-based Knorr experimented with sequins and shine on a knee-length dress with oversize sleeves as well as trousers, which were festooned with red glittery accents. Dresses came long and short. Some were flowy or with an asymmetrical hem with high slits while trousers were loose and baggy or form-fitting and paired with one-shoulder or

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Teatum Jones RTW Fall 2018

Conversations between Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones and a group of 25 “bold, confident, creative and smart” women who they consider to embody the spirit of Teatum Jones sparked the designers’ fall collection. “Through these conversations about their lives and their favorite pieces from our past collections, and how they made them feel, we realized joy, sadness and hope are the three emotions that unite them all,” Teatum told WWD.
Those three emotions translated into the three “chapters” of color in the collection, which featured many of the brand’s greatest hits, like signature oversize statement coats, fluid dresses, elongated sleeves and knitwear with cutout sleeves, all in the beautiful fabrications that earned Teatum Jones the 2016 International Woolmark Prize and a BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund grant last year.
The show began with joy, in a palette of raspberry, red, pink and cornflower blue; sadness was expressed through near-black navy, royal blue and ivory, and hope was all shades of white and cream, florals and a flash of mustard in a trouser suit.
Sleeves were full, gathered and draped in fluid silks, while tailoring was just as compelling, with elegantly belted jackets given cutouts at the elbows and, in the case of a white evening suit,

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Richard Quinn RTW Fall 2018

The stakes were high at Richard Quinn’s fall 2018 catwalk presentation. The up-and-coming designer showed his new collection to an audience that included the Queen of England, who was there to award him the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, in recognition of his creative talent and contribution to the fashion community.
Even though he was only given a few days’ notice of the royal’s attendance, Quinn lived up to the expectations.
He maintained his focused vision, shining the spotlight on his impressive printwork and flair for standout, dramatic silhouettes.
An array of abstracted floral prints — all created in-house at the designer’s print studio in Peckham — were mashed up on loose halterneck dresses, delicately pleated chiffon skirts and oversize bomber jackets, to create a visual feast of color and pattern.
Quinn explored new territory, too, with a series of silk-satin layered pieces featuring spliced scarf prints that were paired with matching head scarves — a wink to the Queen’s style — and dramatic gowns done in metallic foil. Elsewhere, models in gigantic helmets made their way down the runway wearing tougher, biker-inspired jackets and slim pants featuring zips galore.
“I was thinking of old-school couture shows, the Muglers of the world.

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Sophia Webster Ballroom Dances Her Way Into Fall 2018

DANCING QUEEN: British accessories designer Sophia Webster has always been known for using her seasonal presentations as a platform to bring her fantasy-filled, flamboyant world alive.
For fall, she went all out: she transformed the Café Royal’s Pompadour ballroom into a scene from Baz Luhrmann’s “Strictly Ballroom” — one of her favorite films — complete with tinsel curtains, giant revolving disco balls, crystals and feathers galore.
Webster, who danced competitively in her youth, said this was a very personal collection. “I was drawn to the costumes, the competition, everything. It was mine and my sister’s favorite film when we were younger, so I wanted to revisit it with a dance competition-inspired collection. It helps when something feels authentic to me.”
Guests were greeted with a playful neon sign that read: “I don’t need a mango to tango,” before being immersed into the sparkly world of competitive dancing. There were shelves filled with dance competition trophies placed next to crystal-embellished heeled sandals, models on podiums who danced in their feather-embellished ankle boots and professional Latin dancers performing in front of a glittering Coca-Cola banner — part of a collaboration with the designer.
Webster noted that the brand’s evening collection has been performing particularly strongly, so

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Pringle of Scotland RTW Fall 2018

Fran Stringer maintained her focused vision for Pringle of Scotland, with a tightly edited collection that played on the brand’s biggest strength: knitwear.
She delivered a range of laid-back, luxuriously crafted pieces that showcased the Scottish label’s flair for ath-leisure and its commitment to craftsmanship, including cozy, oversized double-wool capes and hand-knitted joggers.
“I wanted to showcase the vast variety of knitwear’s capabilities. For instance, we were the first to print on knitwear in the Sixties,” said the designer, pointing to a cool Fair Isle knit with blue leopard-print panels spliced in.
Stringer also resurfaced some of the brand’s icons. She managed to tap into the nostalgic, logo-obsessed mood of today while remaining tasteful: diamond argyle motifs featured on mixed mohair capes and hand-intarsia cardigans, a typographic logo from the Eighties made a reappearance on a sporty red sweater; while an oversized, abstracted version of the label’s lion emblem was embroidered on an oversize sweater.
“The wonders of Scottish nature” were another point of reference for the designer, who worked with the jeweler Gala Colivet-Dennison to create agate embellishments that were embroidered on tops and capes.

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David Koma RTW Fall 2018

David Koma said he became “obsessed” with the ethnographic photography of 19th-century artist Edward Curtis, which led him to explore the traditional dress of Native American tribes and interpret their folklore and cultures for fall.
But when you put prevalent notions of what comprises the traditional dress of tribes like the Apache or Chinookan Indians into Koma and pull the lever, what comes out is far from a pastiche of silver and turquoise belt-buckles, feather headdresses and fringed suede chaps. Working in a pared-back palette of black, white, red and violet, he translated those tribal codes through a Sixties Mod lens into a lineup of sexy, sassy clothes, marrying satin-shiny calf hair with hand-embroidered mesh, leather and shearling.
Nods to gaucho dress could be seen in the flared leather skirt and black turtleneck, worn with Western-inspired calf-hair boots; in the long sleeveless coat layered over a white knit and tall boots, and in the black calf-hair jean jacket, trimmed with black, white and red fringing.
A feathered headdress was reimagined into macramé embroidery, and sparkly crystal or laser-cut mirror embellishment and appeared as feathers of varying scale on red-carpet-ready dresses. And those turquoise and silver belt buckles? Koma adapted them into shiny circular clasps

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Ashley Williams RTW Fall 2018

The collection was all about eschewing digital technology — temporarily, at least — and exploring the north, south, east and west of Britain: its countryside, ruins and national monuments.
The clothes were certainly all over the place, swinging quickly from the sweet — as in a lineup of billowy, high-waist cotton dresses — to witchy looks in the form of sheer, stretchy lace dresses with lots of skin on show. As if that were not enough, there was a hippie-outdoorsy element, too.
There were some fun pieces such as neon patchwork fleece, a poncho with a jaunty checkerboard pattern and a lavender corduroy suit, presumably for those women who can’t quite decide whether they’re saints or sinners.

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Delpozo RTW Fall 2018

Josep Font may have switched cities, showing in London for the first time instead of New York, but he certainly didn’t let go of his colorful and dreamy aesthetic.
Font staged the show at the Royal Institute of British Architects, and said he wanted to fuse nature and art inside the grand Art Deco building on Portland Place. Both themes came through loud and clear — and sometimes too loud — with Font talking backstage about his desire for “colors and simple, curving lines” that followed the shapes of the body.
Elegant and sculptural leather belts done in lily-pad shapes cinched many a trouser and dress waist while big faux-fur flowers — in electric blue or bougainvillea pink — sat on the collars of coats, or covered small clutch bags.
Color combinations were offbeat, with some working a treat, as in a marine blue A-line dress with a bright yellow collar, a long cinnamon coat with a pale blue flower belt, and a pink dress with feather-light red tulle panels at the side. A long, ruffle-front dress in bright yellow was also a winner.
Other combinations veered more toward the Neapolitan ice cream sundae — in particular the light brown and yellow exploded hound’s

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Halpern RTW Fall 2018

The party never seems to stop in Michael Halpern’s world. His maximalist sensibilities and love of sequins have propelled his brand, which is in its fourth season, into key retailers worldwide, including Bergdorf Goodman and Browns. Beyoncé is a fan, as are Adwoa Aboah and Marion Cotillard, who wore one of his gowns down the red carpet at the Cannes Film Festival last year.
This season, Halpern continued to build on his creations, tweaking his modern take on Seventies glamour with his body-hugging jumpsuits and exaggerated proportions in layered sequins. For fall, the New York-born designer drew on the late Nan Kempner, whose attitude toward fashion and dress codes was famously irreverent.
He wanted the Halpern woman to be a modern Kempner with a similar disregard for fashion etiquette. Halpern didn’t want his clothes to be restricted to eveningwear, so he blurred the lines. The London-based designer riffed on floor-grazing jumpsuits in different iterations — some featured plunging necklines, while others had asymmetrical necks and sleeves. Trousers were wide and featured clashing prints and jackets with dramatic shoulders were paired with micro minis. He kept the bustier from last season and evolved it into mini dresses worn with supersized Lurex scarves or

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Osman RTW Fall 2018

The music was blaring, the Baies candles burning and the models throwing shapes on Saturday morning as Osman Yousefzada hosted a house party to show his fall collection.
Yousefzada insisted that the empty bottles of Champagne peppering the set had not been previously consumed by the models, but they were dancing with wild abandon and who could blame them for getting in the mood with a collection this jolly.
Tiphaine de Lussy, dancing with daughter Agathe, was among the cast of characters shimmying in looks that ranged from a sage green silk pajama suit topped with a burgundy tux blazer; a fantastic printed pj ensemble of pink floral arabesques and graphic shapes; a sophisticated red trouser suit with a tie-front jacket, while De Lussy herself was in a frilled black leather skirt, a high-neck Lurex knit and a multihued paneled furry coat.
The designer once again channeled the Eighties via one-shouldered tops in lamé or stiff satin, and put flashy gold lamé to work in a roomy blouse and a dress that morphed into trousers below the waist. Toughness came in pieces like black leather trousers worn with a matching top with structural frills that cascaded down the back.
Other highlights were a sheer

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Bora Aksu RTW Fall 2018

Bora Aksu offered his own interpretation of the ongoing discussion on gender, with a fall collection that blended the androgynous and the romantic.
His point of reference was Margaret Ann Bulkley, who managed to become one of the most respected surgeons in 18th-century England by living as a man — James Barry — in her day-to-day life.
With Bulkley’s dual life in mind, Aksu delivered elegant tailored looks for day, as in pinstripe culottes and matching blazers, velvet jumpsuits and wide-leg trousers. They were juxtaposed with ultra feminine, romantic dresses in sorbet shades which are likely to resonate with the growing roster of celebrities the designer has been dressing for the red carpet lately, including Elle Fanning and Kate Nash.
Among the standout looks were a black-and-white midi dress featuring delicate lace and chiffon-tulle tiers and a mini lilac number featuring draped chiffon panels and 3-D floral appliqués.
“I didn’t want to do something unisex or genderless, I wanted to separate the two and showcase that a woman can embrace both sides,” the designer said after the show.

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Marc Jacobs RTW Fall 2018

“Take it to the runway,” Marc Jacobs pronounced during a preview. On Wednesday night, he did just that, with a fearless endorsement of the kind of fashion about which he’s passionate – demonstrative, audacious, at times over-the-top.
Once again, Jacobs showed his collection with his brand mired in chatter. Two weeks ago, the company confirmed the hiring of designer John Targon, his role thought to focus on the contemporary side of the business. But since the company did not clarify his position, the speculation percolated. Meanwhile, Jacobs is crystal clear on where to focus his efforts. “No street-inspired clothes here,” he said, before running off a list of what he would show. “Jewel tones. Sumptuous fabrics. Eye makeup and nail polish that match. Incredible hats by Stephen Jones. Accessorized from the top of the head to the bottom of the foot. These are runway clothes. I don’t know what happens afterward, but they’re runway clothes. That’s what I do. That’s what I’m doing.” His near-militant tone softened. “I’m very happy doing it, by the way. I love doing this.”
That love is informed by fashion history and fandom. Here, Jacobs made his case for real fashion, fashion that’s not diluted or dumbed down, with

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Maki Oh RTW Fall 2018

Designer Amaka Osakwe took a playful jab at the press’ capacity for error in her fall collection. After a feature came out that made the brand seem lingerie-focused, Osakwe began playing around with ideas of how she would actually make bedroom clothing in a Maki Oh way. It’s not a far cry from the narrative she usually crafts for her girl; last year, it was tailored around what she would wear heading to a late-night casual encounter.
Her watchwords this time were “lazy sensual.” It described the inherent sexiness of a sheer white lace dress and metallic cami top, but was just as applicable to the languid pants and mixed print dresses that revealed bits of skin. These fluid dresses felt more in step with the colorful pattern play Osakwe offers, though in a quieter palette.
In fact, some of the strongest pieces drew from tailoring and what her girl is wearing coming home from work. There were slight subversions that provided special elevations, like a plaid blazer with a sleeve cut in a different fabric or a tailored black coat with a single sleeve that opened with a ruffle. Even with the center around sensuality, the ease surrounding these

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10 Crosby Derek Lam RTW Fall 2018

The 10 Crosby customer has a great deal to look forward to for fall. Continuing a thread of subverting classics, there was a playful sense of reconstruction in key wardrobe items that leaned toward a laid-back luxury. Peacoats were softened by knit sleeves, sweatshirts with poplin shirting sleeves and a trenchcoat hybrid balanced a poncho with military elements. Those were the bigger statements for the more eclectic consumer and what the brand has become known for.
Being a little sister to the Derek Lam Collection, there was also a reliable thread of sophistication. The designer maintained similar references across both lines, balancing a little bit of the bohemian American West against a more refined equestrian bent. The references were subtle, applied as flirty prairie dresses, yoking across shirting, tailored blazers that took aim at riding jackets, fringing and a great bold tapestry coat with a Southwestern spirit.
The brand is all about approachable realness to wit. No tricks or fussy compositions here, just playful and edgy takes on sportswear. Given she’s a little younger, the 10 Crosby client is into ath-leisure but she’s also an intellectual, exploring the work of Joan Didion amid the current social climate —and the title of

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Boss Gallery RTW Fall 2018

“I wanted something quite sober, serene in a world full of flashes,” said Jason Wu, who, on Tuesday, presented his Boss Gallery fall collection. The lineup, unveiled with a presentation at the Cedar Lake venue, with models standing on a rotating podium placed in the middle of the room, marked the end of the five-year collaboration between the German company and the designer.
Wu, who said he feels proud to have managed to bring Boss’ women’s wear line into the spotlight, accentuated that his main goal for fall was simply to deliver beautiful clothes. Obvious? Shouldn’t that be the primal necessity behind every single collection? Actually, probably not in this world, where sometimes excess and controversy are seated in the front row, while pure beauty modestly remains in the shadow.
However, Wu, once again, accomplished his mission. His lineup was straightforward and uncomplicated, yet elegant and chic.
Fishing into the Hugo Boss company’s tailoring tradition, he played with sartorial fabrics and constructions. The women of today can be unfussy and practical, so the collection included linear checkered coats, pleated pants worn with crisp cotton shirts, parkas combining textures and suits cut in relaxed silhouettes. Oversized knits added a touch of coziness to the

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Michael Kors RTW Fall 2018

What do MoMA and Maria von Trapp have in common? Things, silly! Dear, determined Maria chased away fears by singing about her favorites. MoMA used a different word for its recent exhibit, “Items: Is Fashion Modern?” but potato, po-tah-to.
In December, Kors and his husband Lance LePere took in the exhibit. “It really just started my head rolling,” Kors said during a preview. “How do I design the piece that you grab for on a regular basis?” He set out to design a collection of exactly that — go-to, essential items aka favorite things. Cue Julie Andrews. (Kors did, for his soundtrack, three-quarters through the show.)
The fashion kismet of it all — museum show, show tune, Kors’ desire to celebrate his customers’ individuality — made for a collection that, while a little disjointed (items will do that to you), presented beautiful, inviting clothes that radiated the designer’s innate optimism and corresponding belief that fashion should be good for what ails you, not a device for exploring kernels of social discontent. A show, he said, “for people who find joy in getting dressed.”
You name it, this collection had it. (Except for real fur — Kors recently swore off the stuff. But there

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Anna Sui RTW Fall 2018

It’s official: Gigi and Bella could have been runway stars in any era. Kaia, too. (Big surprise there.) Some of the other girls, not so much. The Hadid sisters opened Anna Sui’s show — Gigi first, then Bella, done up in looks that riffed on couture while strutting the runway the old-fashioned way: Spin! Stop! Shoulder thrust! Hip thrust! Killer gaze! When some of their colleagues experimented in kind, they looked about as comfortable as if they’d been asked to recite poetry in ancient Sanskrit.
Sui’s opening proved more than witty amusement. It introduced her fall ode to the fashion she somehow became aware of, and obsessed with, during her formative years, “the old Balenciaga shows, the old Seventh-Avenue-in-the-showroom runway shows,” she noted during a preview. Back then, she pored over magazines and became obsessed with illustrators — Anne Marie Barden, “who did the big eyes and thumbprint cheeks;” and early Antonio Lopez.
Various works by them inspired Sui’s color stories — oranges and yellows; blues and greens. As for the purples, they’re signature. From these, Sui created a range of characters, Millennial descendants of Sixties-Seventies-era ladies and librarians; sirens, secretaries and snow bunnies, all in compilations of her trademark intense prints

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Sachin & Babi RTW Fall 2018

“How do we delight/surprise/keep you guys engaged?” Babi Ahluwalia asked herself when starting to plan the fall season. She and husband and co-designer Sachin Ahluwalia decided to skip the runway show and instead center the collection around a real person who embodied the brand’s sensibility and had an empowering spirit; the muse they chose was Maye Musk, a model, dietitian and the mother of Elon Musk. “We really allow the girl to shine, that’s my motto,” Babi said. And Musk surely shone, bringing life to the duo’s range of flowy, totally approachable daywear with embroidered birds and brocades and literal shiny evening interpretations.
Since expanding their sizing up to 18 over the course of 2017, Sachin & Babi have taken to defining their price points for fall with knit dresses at $ 495 to $ 795, cocktail pieces at $ 595 to 700 and “viva glam” eveningwear at $ 1,800 to $ 2,000. No matter the category, their playful and pretty silhouettes embellished with beautiful embroideries stayed constant. Cocktail and evening assortments included a red velvet offering with fringe, another with paillettes, and a flirty silver top paired with a tweed skirt. Musk looked especially joyful in a shiny gold dress with fringed sleeves and tulle

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Diane von Furstenberg RTW Fall 2018

Joie de vivre is definitely a pillar of the DVF brand, as Diane von Furstenberg herself highlighted during an appointment at her Meatpacking District headquarters, where she presented the label’s fall collection along with newly appointed chief design officer and vice president, creative, Nathan Jenden. In January, the British designer returned to the New York-based brand, where he had worked for 10 years, until 2011. His deep knowledge of the fashion house enabled him to develop a full collection in only four weeks.
The results were not affected by the rush. Jenden didn’t crack under deadline, and designed a compelling, rich lineup perfectly reflecting the brand’s hyper feminine, lively spirit.
Sixties’ and Seventies’ references echoed in the collection and influenced some of the silhouettes and prints, though they blended seamlessly into a smart, contemporary, around-the-clock wardrobe.
A leopard jacket was layered over a multicolor striped turtleneck sweater and paired with pleated pants for a chic, urban day look, while a posh take on the classic tracksuit was offered via a long-sleeve top matched with coordinated flared pants, all worked in a graphic pattern with a vintage feel.
DVF’s signature wrap dresses were rendered in a wide range of options, ranging from a short bias-cut

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Eckhaus Latta RTW Fall 2018

First things first: In the interest of avoiding hypocrisy, it should be stated that Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta staged their fall show at essentially the same Bushwick site that drew ire for Alexander Wang last season. Like #Wangfest, Eckhaus Latta was a haul for anyone living or working in Manhattan earlier in the day, though the venue, which the designers used last season, too, allowed for immersion in the provincial clichés that halo the brand. The collection was gender nonbinary, the show was cast with real people including a senior citizen and a plus-size model, and the clothes conformed to awkward/cool non-conformity.
I’ll admit I’m late to the Eckhaus Latta party. Their profile has been growing for years, yet this was the first time I was curious enough to see for myself. The show opened with a simple, slightly oversize, eggshell-colored double-breasted blazer dress. There was a shiny ivory button down with a tonal floral pattern tucked into patchwork leather dad jeans — or were they mom jeans? — in light blue and cream. Knitwear, such as a gently slashed sweater done in purple, white and gray squares over knit track pants, seemed like the intended showpieces, but what stood

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Alejandra Alonso Rojas RTW Fall 2018

Setting up an atelier at a fashion show or presentation runs the risk of being a trope, but Alejandra Alonso Rojas’ felt earnest and genuine. Maybe because Rojas, who was born in Madrid, comes from a long line of hand knitters. Or maybe it was because the clothes, which are produced in New York City, were so beautifully made.
Rojas, who has been showing her eponymous line for four seasons, said that when working on a new line, she likes to build off her last and design items that can easily be worn with things she’s already produced. This season she looked to Sierra de Madrid, a vacation spot in the mountains she frequented with her family. She brought this into the collection with a watercolor floral print that resembled snow. It showed up on a suit, an A-line skirt with a handkerchief hem and a long tiered and ruffled skirt. The sweaters draped the body nicely and were decorated with large cable knit details and bell sleeves. Rojas used recycled strips of suede and leather from her previous collections to construct A-line skirts and a wrap shirt that was paired with matching culottes. Other favorites were a navy lace trench

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Sandy Liang RTW Fall 2018

Sandy Liang’s presentation at the Mission Chinese restaurant spoke to her design m.o.: The clothes were happy, easy-to-wear items that balanced amplified proportions with urban appeal; the location was convenient for her friends to get to. The recent CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist found her inspiration close to home, influenced by neighborhoods in New York and the friends and family surrounding her. She cast friends for her presentation and look book shoot, and said she was excited to be represented by those who truly capture her spirit.
Her clothes project a street-style sensibility that balances quirkiness with editorial appeal. She’s matured over the years and her clothes have naturally expanded into categories like shirting and knitwear. They’re still fun, but you’ll find more than the “crazy coats” with which she started. There were more dresses, like a pink sporty version in a windbreaker material she likened to something you’d find at Party City — though hers was more elegant — and a wide gray shirtdress she said you can eat a lot in and still look pretty. A little silliness was a good way to keep things lighthearted, but some heft was what anchored the collection. Cue the military anorak decorated

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NYFW Street Style Fall 2018: Gigi Hadid & Others Are Wardrobe Goals

ESC: Street Style, Gigi HadidAre you ready for what New York Fashion Week has in store for your wardrobe?
While the runway gets most of the credit for attracting people to NYC during this time, the sidewalks of the…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

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Lafayette 148 New York RTW Fall 2018

Creative director Emily Smith’s push to cater to a younger audience for fall was clear. There was a bigger embrace of pattern play and loosely cut silhouettes. Leopard-print calf hair adorned a tailored denim jacket and was also cut into a fully fashioned coat, snakeskin accented the cuffs of a sleek robe coat, and head-to-toe knit dressing was recommended for polished, unfussy office-to-dinner fare. If there was one piece sure to attract a Millennial, it would be the leopard-print bomber jacket.
“Our big message as a brand as we evolve is there’s not always a formula for how people dress,” Smith said. “We have to have fun with it, so I really want customers to be comfortable mixing and matching and playing with it.”
Smith looked to the midcentury interior of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater and its eclectic mix of tartan plaids, Moroccan rugs and graphic stripes for color and print inspiration. She blended patterns for her own take on newness — offering a cotton striped shirtdress in a winter palette of green and red, a windowpane coat with no side seams, and reversible double-print dresses ideal for travel. Items friendlier for yearlong wear included a pair of covetable wide-leg trousers, soft

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Carlos Campos Men’s Fall 2018

Mexican style icon Juan Gabriel may be gone, but he’s not forgotten — at least not for Carlos Campos. The designer on Tuesday presented a collection influenced by the late singer’s unique “charro” influence.
“I love mariachis and their music and I wanted to reinterpret what Juan Gabriel would have worn today,” said the designer backstage.
That translated into sleek outerwear, loose tailoring, silk shirts with pointed collars and pleated baggy pants.
Though very minimal, Campos captured the graphic elements of the mariachi jacket and added his own spin, which resulted in an infusion of bold graphic statements that had a tribal/street aesthetic, as seen in his oversized checked shirts and cropped capes.
The theme could have had the audience screaming “ay caramba,” but Campos’ restraint in the use of the mariachi references resulted in a solid effort.

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Men’s Fall 2018 Trend: Euro Trip

Heritage men’s wear and youthful street influences were on full display on Europe’s fall runways, where sharp double-breasted tailoring faced off against statement puffers, while pops of Instagram-friendly safety orange enlivened the season. 
Monster Mash
Double Play
Pumped Up
High Visibility
 

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Simon Miller RTW Fall 2018

Simon Miller showed its fall 2018 men’s and women’s collections together in the brand’s new home base of Los Angeles on Friday night, via an experiential dinner hosted by cocreative directors Chelsea Hansford and Daniel Corrigan at Hansford’s midcentury modern home in Laurel Canyon.
Their 18 dinner guests, friends who served as the models for each look, were part of the city’s creative community of musicians, artists and producers. The collection, titled “POP,” drew inspiration from midcentury Art Deco, featuring bold, primary-colored suits, knits and outerwear with pops of silver for women, and luxe nubuck leather, washed woolskin and heavy shearling-lined jackets for men.
Both collections also featured plenty of textured and layered knitwear, such as sleeveless turtleneck sweaters in long-haired, felted cashmere for women and color-blocked, felted cashmere cardigans for men. Hansford said she was also inspired by “French girl singers in the Sixties,” apparent in the styling of images that were displayed in vignettes and projections in various rooms of her home.
Key prints included shrunken and enlarged black-and-white houndstooth and a graphic French poster-inspired print, which appeared on silk puffer jackets and wool gauze shirting for women, while geometric plaids layered over color-blocked knitwear for men.
Denim, which continues to evolve

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Facebook Profit Rises, but Shares Fall as Users Spend Less Time on Network

Facebook said quarterly operating profit soared, a reminder of its dominance in digital advertising despite mounting criticism against the social network. But its shares fell about 5% after the company said recent news-feed changes led to users spending less time on the platform.
WSJ.com: WSJD

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John Varvatos Men’s Fall 2018

John Varvatos went “rogue” for his fall show, eschewing the official fashion calendar to present on the eve of Grammys weekend in New York.
He selected an old synagogue on the Lower East Side and filled the front row with musicians and executives in town for the big event at Madison Square Garden: all three Jonas brothers, Thomas Rhett, Young Paris and Iggy Azalea among them.
It was ironic then that this season, Varvatos showed less of a rock ’n’ roll aesthetic than in the past. “I never think of us as rock ’n’ roll,” the designer said backstage before the show. “That’s other people’s perception. But it does have an edge to it.”
Instead, the designer set out to “change it up,” with a show he titled “John Varvatos 2.0” that “explored the notion of looking back to look forward,” according to the show notes.
He turned to his greatest hits over the past 17 years — textured fabrics, handknit sweaters, hand-finished leathers and pumped-up trainers — modernized in terms of silhouette and materials — to offer his take on the street “and how we’re living today.”
Despite the slightly oversized proportions, the collection was not streetwear — intentionally. “I appreciate streetwear but I’m

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The Fall singer Mark E Smith dies aged 60

The band’s manager says the 60-year-old died at home on Wednesday morning.
BBC News – Entertainment & Arts

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The Fall Rocker Mark E. Smith Dead at 60

Mark E. Smith, frontman of the English post-punk act The Fall, has died. He was 60 years old.

“It is with deep regret that we announce the passing of Mark E. Smith,” the band’s manager posted in a statement on Facebook Wednesday. “He passed this morning at home. A more detailed statement will follow in the next few days. In the meantime, Pam & Mark’s family request privacy at this sad time.”

A Manchester, England, native, Smith launched The Fall in 1976. Over the years the band released 32 studio albums, most recently July 2017’s New Facts Emerge, on which Smith was the sole remaining founding member. Though they found minor success with their original singles in the ’80s, The Fall is best remembered for their cover of the Kinks’s “Victoria.”

Several English musicians — including Lisa Stansfield and Billy Bragg — took to social media to pay their respects.

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“First we lost Ursula Le Guin, then Hugh Masekela, now Mark E Smith. Been a tough week for cultural icons,” Bragg tweeted Wednesday.

“So very sad. Goodbye Mark. E. Smith. It was good knowing you,” Stansfield.


PEOPLE.com

Fashion Deals Update:

Officine Générale Men’s Fall 2018

Pierre Mahéo is sticking to his guns. “I don’t need and don’t want mass,” he insisted in his show notes — a candid letter addressed to friends. He’s not having any of that forced-inspiration business either.
So the designer delivered a soothing lineup of his mainstay: smart, contemporary and handsome, easing his audience into a comfortable spot on a cold and dripping Sunday morning.
Outerwear came in layers. For the women: a thin, checked trench hung over a thicker, double-breasted coat in blue, of the same length, just below the knees — paired with a tight miniskirt and bare legs. A suit coat poked out from under a beige bomber jacket for men. The jackets also came in a lush dark olive and pale gray that leaned toward periwinkle — faithful to his color scheme, Mahéo tinkered with the hues and canceled the stitching on the sleeves. The label also focused on fabrics, studying the weave of vintage American military clothing from the Sixties and commissioning Japanese mills to make them.
Prints were notably absent but not for want of trying. “I tried really hard, but there was nothing that really caught my eyes,” explained Mahéo, with his trademark sincerity. The result was

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Balmain Men’s Fall 2018

Balmain may be looking to widen its reach, but Olivier Rousteing, as the house’s figurehead, ultimately designs for himself, with his spirit running through every single piece that goes down his runway, take it or leave it.
And that was the message this season, with the designer reinforcing everything the brand is known for, revisiting house classics like the short jacket, the tight pants, the military jacket and the marinière in a torrent of metallic, glittery embellishments. The direction was echoed in the women’s looks, which were hooked on signature sexy, thigh-skimming dresses.
Sticking to his skinny, square-shoulder silhouette, military — one of the season’s key trends — was a major theme, but more for the embellishments than a utilitarian mood, with plays on pockets, zips and lacing on a run of khaki green bombers and bikers.
With sax’ on the soundtrack, “Blade Runner”-esque outfits included a double-breasted belted plastic jacket with the neon lights of an urban night landscape print glowing through. Black vinyl enhanced the after-dark mood, sometimes as a total look.
Where the collection shone, though, was in the latter run of simpler, young-at-heart, more minimalist spins, like the glittery mesh T-shirt, a beaded black and silver baseball T-shirt that swished as

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Hed Mayner Men’s Fall 2018

For his third show in Paris, Israeli designer Hed Mayner charted a course through a nautical theme.
There was a melancholy mood to the voluminous jackets with sleeves falling to the fingertips, back-to-front shirting mimicking a sailor suit, and in the outerwear, some of which were capes crafted from recycled sails.
“They’re things that you go to sleep in, pieces in which you have a life,” he said backstage. Even the landlocked will get mileage out of boiled wools in a palette of navy and grays that spoke of cold-weather strategies from a time before technical materials. Extrawide trousers that pooled at the ankle and collars turned up as high as they’d go, and then some had something of Corto Maltese to them.
The waters between utilitarian and tailored clothing can often be rough, filled with oversized proportions and unflattering silhouettes. In reframing  tailored outerwear and suiting into a form of workwear by playing with scale — magnifying and downsizing is one of his signatures — Mayner found his way to a safe harbor between the two.

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Dries Van Noten Men’s Fall 2018

Taking over a vast garage in Paris’ Canal Saint-Martin district, with models tracing its edge on a raised podium before hitting the ground, Dries Van Noten pulled off one of the season’s strongest shows yet.
A curious mix of combinations went into the shaker, like Las Vegas-style Western garb, white broderie anglaise pants, military parkas, suits in traditional British checks, granny crochet cardigans and pajama stripes. There was also a hint of pimp and a hearty dose of punk, such as a look pairing a glittery zebra sweater with tartan pants.
But it was all so well-balanced that it formed a fun, cohesive, rich but cool whole.
Even the more daring elements were digested perfectly into the looks. Case in point: a minimalist navy tracksuit traced with lines of tan cowboy-shirt piping.
Van Noten continued to play with oversize proportions in the slouchy suits, boxy trenchcoats and the baggy pants.
The designer’s magic colorist instincts climaxed in an Instagenic run of anoraks in swirling colored marble-y prints recalling Venetian paper or spun paint, with models gathering in a painterly formation for the finale.
The open-border mixing of cultures worked best on a tropical print pajama shirt paired with a fantasy leopard print skinny pant and snakeskin

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Haider Ackermann Men’s Fall 2018

This felt less gritty rock than collections past, with Haider Ackermann showing a more merch-friendly, cleaner side. Fully intact was his sense of color and nomad instincts. On a range of layered military-ethnic silhouettes for a chic dandy, the designer juxtaposed Army green and khaki with the jewel tones of the silky rich fabrics.
Quilted green and gold underlayers flashed out from the big tailored coats and jackets, silks lined upturned lapels, and white silk-linen cherry blossom embroideries climbed across the clothes, mixing with stripes on one of the kimonos.
Soft unconstructed velvet leisure suits underscored the cocooning mood, with the designer saying backstage that he wanted it to feel lived in, “that the person inhabits the clothes.”
The floaty black coat in country florals with quilted gold lining was to die for.
“That’s what I enjoy the most, to play with colors and fabrics and patterns,” said Ackermann. And it showed.

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Palomo Spain Men’s Fall 2018

What better start to Paris Men’s Fashion Week? And to the year, while we’re at it.
Horns tooting, Alejandro Gómez Palomo this season put the conservative country set and hunting world through his madcap spinner. In an altogether more masculine and commercial collection, relatively speaking, the designer opened with bottle green Dickens-esque capelet coats and skinny pants in a dark, cool, wool-striped fabric, tricked with foxtails and ring belts with S&M undertones.
The Elizabethan-style period dressing bit — think guys in doublets with slash sleeves, pleated brocade tunics and onion-shaped hose like puffed shorts — was where it all exploded.
The silver sequin chainmail dress with green capelet was a real head-turning moment. As were the silk brocade chaps. Other looks, like the stately black cape dusted with crystals, had a turn-of-the-century, woman-in-mourning feel, with the designer’s work recalling early John Galliano, pulling from a lot of different source material.
But for all the camping around, the craftsmanship was exquisite, especially the intricate shoulder constructions. Hunting hats with splays of feathers and fringed leather bags finished off the looks.
A drapey camel trenchcoat with a pale blue shirt with ruffles on the collar had the perfect balance.
There was a liberating, gender-free, fairy-tale mood. But the

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Rossignol Men’s Fall 2018

For Rossignol’s Studio collection, Andrea Pompilio showed respect for the history of the brand and said he wished to “telegraph the precision and technicality” of the company’s expertise in the mountains for “daily, performing city pieces.”
The designer highlighted Rossignol’s down jackets, rendering them season-less and ultralight. Pompilio layered the pieces, designed to be combined freely. A standout look comprised a padded corduroy jacket with knitwear intarsia and a removable ecological shearling collar, worn over comfortable and loose pied-de-poule pants.
Functional details, such as snap-hooks and ski-lift badges, became decorative elements for the city, as did mesh pockets, applied on the sleeves of a checkered shirt in vivid and contrasting orange and blue.

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