Homme Plissé Issey Miyake Stages First Paris Artistic Presentation

ART ATTACK: Homme Plissé Issey Miyake staged its first artistic presentation in Paris, on Thursday night at the Centre Pompidou. Guests in attendance lined all four walls of a vast room there, which made up the “playground” that the designer had created along with concept and direction by Daniel Ezralow.
To wit, there was a line of rings and a dangling rope, plus a tightrope in place before the beginning of the performance, which featured gymnasts, dancers and models. It sprang to life after a bell was chimed solemnly and men sprinted across the space to begin dressing.
A group of them lined up sporting a selection of the streamlined pleated clothing that comes in a wide array of saturated colors, from the brand’s fall 2019 collection created by Miyake and his design studio, and demonstrated how pieces can be mixed and matched. Two guys sporting wider garb did an amazing balancing act on the tightrope.

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake’s balancing act. 
Dominique Maître

Men walked, danced and ran around the room, filling it with a swirl of lush hues and an exuberant, joyful vibe. A high point was when some swung from the rings in ethereal, mesmerizing synchronized movement.
“Playgrounds are for everybody of all

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Homme Plissé Issey Miyake to Hold First Presentation in Paris

NEW PLEATS: Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, a men’s line from the Japanese designer, is holding its first presentation in Paris on Jan. 17.
Choreographed by Daniel Ezralow, the artistic presentation will take place at the Pompidou Center at 9 p.m., following the Issey Miyake show earlier in the day at 11 a.m. in the Palais de Tokyo. Ezralow choreographed a presentation for Homme Plissé Issey Miyake featuring the men’s gymnastics team of Aomori University in 2013. The Pompidou Center presentation will take place in same space as a recent exhibit on Japanese architect Tadao Ando, a large room with windows lining one side.
Homme Plissé Issey Miyake was established in 2013 as a masculine counterpart to Pleats Please, which was launched two decades prior. The clothing is meant to be light and comfortable, with uniform pleats to keep fabric from sticking too close to the skin.
Designed by Miyake and his teams, pieces to be featured in the presentation are part of the fall winter 2019 collection, with most of the items pleated after being cut and sewn. The line has been growing with an offer ranging from ath-leisure and casual style clothing to suits.
In another recent Paris performance, Issey Miyake opened the

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Kim Jones’ Crew, Including Kate Moss and Lily Allen, Pack in to Dior Homme Show

IN FASHION: Paris rarely gets to see so many designers in one place. Karl Lagerfeld, Virgil Abloh, Victoria Beckham, Giles Deacon, Haider Ackermann, Kenzo Takada and Chitose Abe were just some of the talents who attended Kim Jones’ debut show for Dior Homme on Saturday at the Garde Républicaine. Guests were greeted by a towering floral statue of KAWS’ BFF character reimagined as Christian Dior and his pooch, and covered in some 70,000 blooms.
Sweeping in on the arm of Lenny Kravitz, Naomi Campbell said she was feeling “very proud, very happy.”
“Kim is the one that embraces all the young designers and brings them into the fold and I think that’s really rare. He’s a special human being,” she said, breaking off to catch up with Kate Moss front row.
Kelly Osbourne said Jones had given her a preview of the set two days prior to the show. “To be here today, it’s a dream come true for him but also for all of his close friends. We’re all so proud, we all think we’re going to have a Virgil [Abloh]-Kanye [West] moment day today — with all of us; it might be the entire front row,” said Osbourne, who is currently

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EXCLUSIVE: Kris Van Assche Is Leaving Dior Homme

PARIS — Kris Van Assche is leaving Dior Homme after 11 years and will take up a new assignment within the LVMH Group, WWD has learned.
An official announcement is expected imminently, marking the first big change at Christian Dior Couture since Pietro Beccari arrived as chairman and chief executive officer six weeks ago.
Dior indicated Van Assche’s successor would be named “subsequently.”
According to sources, Kim Jones will take up the plum design role, two months after exiting as Louis Vuitton’s men’s artistic director, and reuniting him with Beccari, who had worked with the English designer when he was the No. 2 executive at Vuitton.
The same sources said Jones would present his first collection for Dior Homme in June.
He joins a clutch of prominent designers at Dior, headlined by Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of women’s haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessory collections, and Victoire de Castellane, its fine jewelry designer since 1998.
LVMH continues to flex its muscles in the burgeoning men’s fashion space, having lured Hedi Slimane back to the group to take over Céline and extend that 73-year-old brand into men’s wear for the first time.
The French luxury giant has also been investing heavily in Berluti, now under the design leadership

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EXCLUSIVE: Dior Confirms Kim Jones at Dior Homme

PARIS — Kim Jones is to present his first collection for Dior Homme in June as its new artistic director of ready-to-wear and accessory collections.
This confirms an earlier report on WWD.com that Jones, previously men’s artistic director at Louis Vuitton, would succeed Kris Van Assche in the plum role. Jones starts April 1.
Van Assche exits Dior Homme after leading the brand for 11 years and is expected to take up a new assignment within LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.
The arrival of Jones represents the first big move by Pietro Beccari, who became chairman and chief executive officer at Christian Dior Couture six weeks ago after stints at Fendi and Vuitton.
“I am delighted to welcome Kim Jones, with whom I had the chance to collaborate previously at Louis Vuitton,” Beccari told WWD. “I admire his creative vision, which combines both his own inspirations of contemporary culture and his own reinterpretation of specific codes and heritage of a house. I am confident in his ability to recreate his universe within the maison Dior and imagine for Dior Homme an elegant and resolutely modern wardrobe.”
Jones joins a clutch of prominent designers at Dior, headlined by Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of women’s haute couture,

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Dior Homme Goes to Work on Denim

Dior Homme‘s Kris Van Assche has an affinity for denim. That much is obvious simply by looking at his expanded 28-item denim line for spring 2018. Details include the silver-embossed on black leather Dior logo, which was repositioned from the inside of garments to become a form of embellishment on the outside, and embroidered roses as patches on jacket shoulders with the word “Roses” inscribed below.
The brand on Monday unveiled a pop-up shop, which will showcase through Feb. 18 the collection at Patron of the New in Manhattan’s TriBeCa. That will be followed on Feb. 15 by an in-store shop at 424 Fairfax in Los Angeles, scheduled to operate through Feb. 25.
If the collection seems compact, the attention lavished upon it suggests that denim could become a permanent category for Dior Homme. There’s also the fact that the collection is being showcased in pop-up shops in seven international cities, an indication that this is no fly-by-night project. Besides Printemps Haussmann in Paris, where Dior Denim is available through March 15, pop-ups are set to bow in London, Hong Kong, Shanghai and Tokyo.
“Dior Homme is continuously evolving,” said Renaud De Lesquen, president and chief executive officer North America at Christian Dior Couture and

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Fashion Review: Dior Homme Stays in Its Safe Space

Balmain reaches back to a Parisian past while Alexander McQueen offers outfits for a wintry summer.
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Front Row at Dior Homme Men’s Spring 2018

Jamie Bell kept a cool head despite heavy police reinforcements around the Grand Palais venue of the Dior Homme show on Saturday. The roads around the site had been blocked off due to a series of promotional events around Paris’ bid to host the 2024 Olympics. But he’s had good training. The actor in his latest film, “6 Days,” plays a member of the SAS, Britain’s counter-terrorism unit, that went in on the Iranian Embassy siege that took place in London in 1980. “It was a very specific moment in British history where Margaret Thatcher wanted to flex her military muscle.”
Christian Slater was taking in the intriguing show set, with fresh grass underfoot and rows of curtains of glistening black tape overhead. “An interesting choice, but it’s cooler in here. I’m looking forward to seeing what kind of characters come out.”
Dressed in a gray suit and sneakers, the “Mr. Robot” star said he’ll soon be heading to London to rehearse for a play in the West End due to open in September, which is still under wraps. “The stage is definitely my first love, and it’s one of the classics, a dream-come-true situation,” he teased.
Asked if he was into fashion, he

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Kris Van Assche Reflects on 10 Years at Dior Homme

PARIS — As he prepares to celebrate his 10th anniversary at the helm of Dior Homme, Kris Van Assche is basking in a new sense of freedom.
Having succeeded his former boss Hedi Slimane in the job, the Belgian designer initially focused on refining the razor-sharp tailoring that made the brand a favorite with celebrities from David Beckham to John Legend. In parallel, he channeled the edgy club culture of his youth into his eponymous label.
Two years ago, Van Assche shuttered his own line because — in his own words — juggling the two “was really no fun anymore.” Since then, he has been injecting more of his personal affinity with streetwear into the Dior aesthetic, bringing back a sense of youthful energy with show sets including a skatepark and a funfair.
With this change of direction — reflected in the brand’s fall 2017 advertising campaign starring Depeche Mode singer Dave Gahan and American actor Lucas Hedges — Van Assche believes that Dior can speak to more than one type of customer.
“People like to put things in boxes. Men dress in a certain way, they like to belong to a certain group, whether it’s music or sports or a social group — of bankers,

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Selected Homme Brings Its Scandinavian Touch to the U.S. Market

After 20 years of distributing its collection throughout Europe, the Middle East, Canada, Latin America, Australia and India, Selected Homme is making its first play into the U.S. market.
The brand is part of Bestseller, a privately owned Danish company that operates over 20 brands including Vero Moda, Only and Vila.
“There is a European trend of openness and we believe the U.S. market is poised for a change,” said Selected Homme’s country manager Brian Edgar.
The Selected Homme main line is divided into three separate collections. The heritage collection, which consists of casual sportswear; the indigo collection that’s made up of denim, and an “identity” assortment that offers a new take on tailored classics. Selected Homme also has a directional label called Homme Plus, which features on-trend clothes. The lines retail from $ 45 to $ 465.
“All three collections can sit together for optimal representation, or each collection can sit alone,” said Edgar.
While the collection is now available in the U.S. via its e-commerce site, Edgar is currently focused on targeting men’s specialty stores including Modern Anthology, Whiskey Ginger and J3 Clothing Company. Selected Homme operates 44 stores around the world, but has no current plans for building up a bricks-and-mortar presence in the U.S.
Edgar said

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Dior Homme Opens New Store in South Coast Plaza

Dior Homme is maintaining its expansion, opening its seventh store in the U.S. at South Coast Plaza.
Owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and overseen by creative director Kris Van Assche, the luxury brand plans to unveil a clean, modern storefront in Costa Mesa, Calif., on Tuesday. The men’s store joins the Christian Dior boutique for women that opened its doors in 2010. In the past seven years that location has secured a spot as one of the brand’s top 10 doors selling women’s fashion, buoyed by business from regional customers as well as international traffic.
Showing growth in the last few years, Dior Homme also can take advantage of South Coast Plaza’s proximity to Hollywood. Joe Jonas, Mahershala Ali and Rami Malek were some of the celebrities who donned clothes by the brand during this year’s awards season.
“South Coast Plaza is an important market for us,” said Renaud de Lesquen, president of Christian Dior Couture and Parfums Christian Dior. “We have wanted to open a Dior Homme boutique in South Coast Plaza for a number of years, but we also wanted to make sure we had the ideal space and perfect location within the plaza in order to best showcase

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Dior Homme Unveils Black Carpet Collection in Beijing

BEIJING – As a sign of the growing importance of China to Dior Homme, the brand debuted its Black Carpet collection here on Wednesday night. The capsule collection, Dior Homme creative director Kris Van Assche’s rebellious take on eveningwear, is launching this week not only in China but also globally, appearing in stores in London, Tokyo, New York and other major cities.
Van Assche, who has not visited the Chinese capital in around four years, said the decision to launch the collection here was driven by the fact that Chinese men, especially those from younger generations, are developing a taste for evening wear that breaks barriers, is more flashy and defies traditional sartorial codes.
“It is less conservative here,” Van Assche said during an interview at the Rosewood Hotel on Wednesday prior to the cocktail at Dior Homme’s store at SKP mall. “Men will go full-on fashion here, which makes sense because I would assume they are successful businessmen, whatever their business is, and they don’t just want to blend in with anyone else. They choose to stand out. I think it is less conservative here than it would be in Europe.”
Van Assche says the collection is about more extreme interpretations of

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Dior Homme Appoints Serge Brunschwig as President

PARIS — Signaling the importance of its men’s wear business, the Dior fashion house is reinforcing management and has named its second-in-command, Serge Brunschwig, president of Dior Homme, WWD has learned.
A key deputy of Christian Dior Couture president and chief executive officer Sidney Toledano since 2008, Brunschwig adds the new title effective Sept. 1, and is to continue in his current role as chief operating officer.
His new responsibilities include “the further development of Dior Homme in ready-to-wear and accessories,” according to the company.
Fabrizio Malverdi, who has piloted the men’s division since 2011 through a strong growth phase and driven the product range further upscale, is to report to Brunschwig, according to Dior Homme.
An affable, yet methodical executive much in the mold of Toledano, Brunschwig has long been making a mark on Dior’s men’s business as he helps oversee its retail network, with new units typically combining the complete women’s and men’s product universes.
The management addition comes as Kris Van Assche, Dior Homme’s creative director since 2007, recently shuttered his 10-year-old signature label, allowing him to focus full-time on Dior Homme.
Before joining Dior, Brunschwig was ceo of Céline, part of the luxury group LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton controlled by Bernard Arnault, who

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