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Men’s Denim Brand Monfrère Expands to U.K.

Los Angeles-based men’s brand Monfrère aims to make its upscale denim the go-to wardrobe piece for day and night, and it’s quickly expanding.
The three-year-old business is now in Selfridges, marking its expansion to the U.K., and has a contract with a Korean distributor, which the company expects will help its presence in the Asian market grow over the next six to 12 months.
Monfrère is sold in 55 doors, including Barneys New York and Bergdorf Goodman, and was cofounded by Sean Rudes — whose father Jeffrey Rudes started J Brand with Susie Crippen — along with Steven Dann. The founder of his namesake men’s shop in New York, Dann is also Sean Rudes’ brother-in-law.
“Sean and I were really discussing denim fits and what we were looking to purchase and wear and both of us had the same requirements,” Dann said of the company’s start.
The two wanted comfortable denim that fit well and could be worn with a T-shirt and sneakers and just as easily transition to a look with a sports jacket. The two scoured the market looking for a brand that fit their requirements, but didn’t turn up anything in line with the description. That was when they said they

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EXCLUSIVE: Aitor Throup Announces Upcoming New Men’s Label

Aitor Throup is gearing up to debut a men’s wear label, WWD has learned.
The Buenos Aires-born and Burnley, England-raised designer, known for his highly conceptualized fashion, said this project marks “the biggest thing I’ve ever worked on, I’m nearing the completion of my vision, which has been 15 years in the making, and I’m near the end of it.”
The new men’s brand, the name of which is being kept under wraps, will make its debut later this year before fully seeing the light in 2020.
Throup, who had served as G-Star’s executive creative director overseeing the men’s and women’s mainline ranges and the Raw Research men’s line since 2016, last year parted ways amicably with the Amsterdam-based label co-owned by Pharrell Williams.
Prior to his appointment at G-Star, Throup had launched his conceptual men’s label New Object Research, which debuted on the London Fashion Week: Men’s calendar in 2013. In 2016 the designer hosted a performance-presentation hybrid in a deconsecrated church in Marylebone.
The men’s label blending fashion, design and the arts paved the way for the development of the new project debuting this year. “New Object Research was a part of this process, this exploration that has allowed me to develop a

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Saks Re-creates Men’s Footwear Department at Flagship

Saks Fifth Avenue’s $ 250 million-plus grand renovation project is finally turning its attention to men’s.
Later this week, the store will take the wraps off a new men’s footwear department that it boasts will be one of the largest luxury shoe destinations in the country.
The 8,000-square-foot space unites shoes in one central location on the sixth floor in an area that has 60 percent more selling space. It will offer 2,000 stock-keeping units  from 60 brands — 15 of which are new to the store — and 160 exclusives, as well as other amenities such as shoe repair stations, extended sizes and personalization stations.
“We know how to build a category-dominant business,” said Marc Metrick, president of Saks. Metrick had been head of planning for Saks and chief merchant Tracy Margolies was vice president of women’s footwear more than a decade ago when they worked together to create Saks’ successful 10022-Shoe women’s floor.
“Twelve years ago, we built an amazing destination,” Margolies said of the women’s floor, one that offers up a “fun and social experience. There’s no reason not to re-create the same thing for men.”
She said when the management team sat down and talked about redeveloping the New York store, they

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Britain’s John Lewis Revamps Offer, Puts Urban Spin on Men’s Wear

LONDON — British department store John Lewis & Partners, where customers can find everything from lamps and frying pans to flat-screen TVs and computers, is putting a fresh spin on men’s wear in a bid to speak to multiple generations, street and sneaker devotees and necktie-free urbanites.
The retail stalwart, which also owns the upmarket supermarket chain Waitrose, has held relatively steady in the crisis that is sweeping the British high street. The store continues to invest in its store real estate, own-brand merchandise, staff training and has been swinging the spotlight onto own brand and exclusive products that customers cannot buy anywhere else.
It’s a tough time for British brick-and-mortar clothing retailers in particular. They’re falling victim to online competition, fast-fashion and streetwear competitors, as well as luxury brands keen to woo younger shoppers with entry-price merchandise such as sneakers and T-shirts.
Marks & Spencer is a prime example of the struggle so many are facing: On Thursday the retailer said in a terse statement that its managing director of clothing and home, Jill McDonald, was leaving the business after two years.
M&S clothing has been struggling for some time, a victim of long-standing supply chain and sizing issues and of a younger

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Rag & Bone’s Mashed-up Men’s Spring Collection

Marcus Wainwright is feeling twisted these days.
For the spring men’s collection, Wainwright, the founder and chief brand officer of Rag & Bone, “mashed things up” by taking the brand’s key pieces and updating them to appeal to a street and sports fan.
Wainwright said the collection just returned to New York after being shown to buyers in Europe, where it received a strong reception from retailers.
“Our men’s business is really strong,” he said. “Men’s in general is having a prolonged moment and ours is very stable and growing nicely.”
But what customers were clamoring for, he said, was “more fashion.” Not over-the-top trendy items, but pieces that “push the line and the tenets of the brand,” he said.
So for spring Wainwright answered the call by designing “a more twisted Rag & Bone,” he said during a walkthrough of the line at the company’s Meatpacking District showroom in Manhattan. “Every season we go back to workwear, British tailoring and military references but we’re also bringing in sports elements.”
Case in point: part of the spring offering was “very loosely inspired by tennis from the 1920s onward,” Wainwright said, pointing to a collection of sweaters with V-neck ribbing and other details specific to the sport.
Other

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Attendance Up at Paris Men’s Shows as French Aura Grows

PARIS — Paris men’s wear and coed trade shows saw a rise in international buyer attendance as the French capital bolsters its position as the global epicenter of men’s fashion.
“Paris has become stronger for the past couple of seasons, because everything is concentrated in the same week, compared to New York, where you have fashion week, then market week. There’s no umbrella unifying everyone there,” said Antoine Floch, cofounder and director of the Man/Woman trade show, which stages a New York edition.
The event reported an increase in overall attendance at the Paris spring 2020 shows, held in three locations around the Place Vendôme, spanning men’s, coed and women’s pre-collections.
Combining trade shows and showrooms with the official Paris Fashion Week calendar at the end of June is more practical for buyers, who come to Man/Woman between fashion shows, said Floch. “It’s a real strength to have that level of high-quality buyers,” he noted, reporting an uptick in American buyers, as well as more brands choosing to exhibit in Paris over New York this season.
Tranoï also saw an increase in attendance from major international and Japanese retailers, though overall attendance dipped in comparison to last year. The show’s central location at the Palais

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Men’s Spring 2020 Trend: Pastel Path

Strongly associated with Easter — and the Eighties — pastels made major inroads at the European men’s shows for spring 2020. At Louis Vuitton, men’s artistic director Virgil Abloh opened and closed his outdoor display with a range of loose tailoring and sportswear in dusty shades.

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Derrill Osborn, Former Men’s Fashion Director for Neiman’s, Dies in Dallas

Derrill Radcliff Osborn, the flamboyant former men’s fashion director for Neiman Marcus, died in his Dallas home Monday night. He was 76.
The cause is not known at this time, but his death was confirmed by Nelson Bell, a pastor at the Highland Park Presbyterian Church. Bell said Osborn, who had been ill for some time, had planned his own service and a date for the memorial will be set shortly.
Osborn was descended from pioneers and ranchers who settled in New Mexico. After serving in the U.S. Army, he started his retail career working at Saks Fifth Avenue in 1964. In the decade he was employed there, he worked his way up from a salesman to a buyer. Osborn also served briefly as general manager of the Lew Ritter men’s specialty store in Beverly Hills before joining Neiman Marcus, where he worked as a buyer for six years before being named vice president of men’s tailored clothing. He retired from Neiman’s in 2002.
Osborn, who was known for his flashy personal style — flowing capes, bowler hats, carnations in his lapel and his ubiquitous beard and mustache — had an unerring eye for fashion that helped put Neiman’s men’s store on the

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Derrill Osborn, Neiman’s Former Men’s Fashion Director, Dies

Derrill Radcliff Osborn, the legendary men’s fashion director for Neiman Marcus, has died in Dallas, according to multiple posts on Facebook late Monday night.
No further details are known at this time, but his death was confirmed by Nelson Bell, a pastor at the Highland Park Presbyterian Church in Dallas. He said Osborn, who had been ill for some time, had planned his own service and a date will be set shortly.
Osborn descended from pioneers and ranchers who settled in Mexico. After serving in the U.S. Army, Osborn started his retail career working at Saks Fifth Avenue in 1964. In the decade he was employed there, he worked his way up from a salesman to a buyer. Osborn briefly ran a men’s clothing and antiques boutique in Beverly Hills before joining Neiman Marcus, where he worked as a buyer for six years before being named vice president of men’s tailored clothing. He retired in 2002.
Osborn, who was known for his flamboyant personal style and ubiquitous mustache, is credited with helping to introduce luxury Italian lines to the store including Ermenegildo Zegna, Brioni and Kiton.
Barry Wishnow of Bash by Barry Wishnow in Nashville wrote: “Losing friends is a tough thing. I lost

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Men’s Spring 2020 Trend: Hang Loose

Men’s wear designers amped up the volume for spring — from looser cuts on suits and trousers to flowing ponchos and baggy knitwear. Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons captured the style with her stellar collection, which played on the theme of Virginia Woolf’s “Orlando,” and also hit the genderless trend.

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Launchmetrics’ Numbers Support Strength of Paris, Italian Men’s Fashion Weeks

It’s no surprise that Paris Men’s Fashion Week has been gaining in importance as New York and London continue to struggle. Marquee shows such as Louis Vuitton and Dior with their buzzy creative directors are overshadowing brands showing in other cities.
And while the Milan calendar is also experiencing some strain, the big Italian brands are still managing to hold their own against their Parisian counterparts.
Looking back at the spring 2019 season, Launchmetrics’ recently released State of Menswear report found that, thanks in large part to the debut of Virgil Abloh as creative director, Louis Vuitton was by far the most popular show of the season with 18.2 million media placements. That number outpaces Dior, the next most popular show, with 9.7 million MIVs, or media impact values, Launchmetrics’ proprietary measurement of media placement in all channels: social, print and online.
Third on the list is Versace, with 5 million MIVs, followed by Prada with 3.2 million, Valentino with 3.1 million, Giorgio Armani with 2.7 million, Off-White with 2.5 million, Yohji Yamamoto with 2.194 million, Boris Bidjan Saberi with 2.190 million and Balmain with 2 million.
Noticeably absent from this list, which includes coed shows, are any designer brands showing in either London

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Men’s Spring 2020 Trend: Graphic Art

Bold prints and patterns were all over the men’s runways for spring, with many designers collaborating with artists on the looks. Turning the process on its head, and creating a new paradigm, was artist Sterling Ruby, who has added “designer” to his résumé with his brand S.R. Studio. LA. CA., coming up with one of the standout collections of the season.

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Retailers Embrace Feminine Side of Men’s Shows in Paris

PARIS — Retailers embraced the wave of femininity that swept through the men’s shows in Paris. Fluid suits, silky shirts, a profusion of pastels — think pink! — floral prints and individual expression were the names of the game this season.
“The most important new direction we are looking for in Paris is the genderless look,” said Federica Montelli, head of fashion at La Rinascente.
Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of The Corner, pushed the idea a bit further:
“The classic, traditional men’s look for us is completely gone. Easy, fresh and bold are the keywords,” he said.
Dior topped the favorite collections, with Louis Vuitton and Dries Van Noten as runners-up. The next tier was crowded: Jil Sander, Loewe, Celine, Valentino and Off-White, reflecting diversity in opinions.
In the hot-new-talent department, Casablanca and Nanushka caught notice. And the best venue went to Louis Vuitton — the Paris streets never fail to charm. Lanvin’s poolside runway and Dior’s futuristic set were also popular.
While snarled traffic and hot sticky weather did not go unnoticed, the fashion, it seems, will be remembered the most.
Here, a roundup of the Paris spring collections in the eyes of the retailers.

Casablanca Men’s Spring Summer 2020 
Courtesy Photo

Fiona Firth, buying director, Mr Porter 
Top trends:

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Artica Arbox Men’s Spring 2020

Irene Roth, founder and creative director of Insta-friendly streetwear label Artica Arbox, wanted to create a dialog between the physical and digital worlds and how we communicate today. Pixelated graphics and texts punctuated simple bright sweatshirts, tees and outerwear – in vivid yellow and tomato red, for example – and were juxtaposed with more tactile pieces evocative of the “real world,” like a ribbed sweater in beige, navy and gray or a retro shell suit. PVC panel details and elastic trims added to the touch-and-feel dimension.
The young label continues to gain traction at retail – with only three collections for women and this its second for men, stockists already include Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York, Selfridges, Galeries Lafayette and Boon the Shop.

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Myar Men’s Spring 2020

Myar is showing its colors for spring. Andrea Rosso’s army uniform upcycling label this season matched military-sourced camouflage with multi-hued patterns from deadstock Hawaiian shirts, calling the collection Re_­Aloha. “We love to mix together two worlds that don’t belong together in a very harmonic way,” he explained.
The combinations’ visual effects are striking and fun. Pieces of a Hawaiian shirt, cut into camouflage shapes, were superimposed onto some uniforms. A green military fatigue pocket popped up on a similarly hued shirt emblazoned with palm trees. Blue military trousers took on a playful quality with piping made of shirting material.
On a number of garments, silhouettes of palm trees had been hand-stamped. “Every time it comes out differently,” Rosso said.
As in past seasons, Myar clothing comes with pouches containing excess fabric from its making-of. But this time, each also has a QR code through which it’s possible for people to learn about the provenance of the items and how they’ve been customized.
In another first, Myar created a dress, made of two military shirts put together. “Our biggest clients actually are females,” explained Rosso. “We have a unisex approach to the collection, even though these items are 100 percent made for men.”
The brand’s collaboration with

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Jil Sander Men’s Spring 2020

The heat of the desert and the cobbled streets of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern towns hung over this spare, elegant collection, which had a subtle, exotic flavor.
Lucie and Luke Meier’s shapes ranged from the boxy to the languid, with the color, pattern and texture doing most of the talking.
An elongated, marine blue shirtdress; a spare, branch-like design on the back of a long, sweeping coat, and the fringes or tassels on a sweater were among the standouts.
Luke said fluid tailoring remains the way forward for the brand, which has long been synonymous with pared-back shapes and fine details. Lucie added that the collection’s value lies in its subtlety, its “poetry and detail,” and its lightweight fabrics.
The couple have been turning their hands and minds to sustainability, too, working materials such as organic banana fiber into pieces such as the black-and-white trenchcoat that appeared in the show. Lucie said the fiber is a dream because it behaves like gazar, but it’s lighter and offers structure without the stiffness.
All of that fabric research meant that even the simplest of pieces sang — the boxy khaki workwear suits, the navy overcoats and those oversized, billowy white cotton shirts, fit for long strolls under

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Sander Lak Wants a Piece of Men’s Wear Pie for Sies Marjan

NEW YORK — Reserved, quiet, unassuming. These are words that would never be used to describe Sander Lak.
Instead, the creative director of Sies Marjan is upbeat, engaging, smart, sophisticated — and talented.
Lak, a former designer for Dries Van Noten, is the engine that has propelled the three-year-old brand squarely into the fashion spotlight. His romantic and colorful women’s wear is carried at some of the most discerning retailers around the world, including Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, Ssense, Matches, Browns, Harvey Nichols, The Webster and so on.
One year after launching his women’s collection in 2016, the Dutch designer dipped his toe into the men’s arena, offering up a capsule with a similar sensibility that immediately took hold. And this week, Lak is going all in, showing his first full men’s collection on the runway during Paris Men’s Fashion Week.
Although Lak, who also worked with Balmain in Paris and Phillip Lim in New York, was trained as a men’s wear designer at Central Saint Martins, this is the first time he’s truly spreading his wings in the men’s arena.
Interestingly, Lak’s foray into men’s came as a result of creating pieces for himself that were not offered for sale. “It’s hard for me

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Amiri Men’s Spring 2020

The feel-good vibes of the Summer of Love pervaded Mike Amiri’s coed offering for spring. Tactile fabrics like velvet and chiffon in a rainbow of pastel shades just begged to be touched in this mellow, romantic lineup that was a major step away from the grungier ethos of his past collections.
Soft tailoring played a much bigger part — testament perhaps to the buzzy brand’s collaboration with Renzo Rosso’s OTB holding, which recently took a minority stake in Amiri, and the use of Italian workshops. It took forms including a pantsuit in mint green Lurex jacquard and loose tuxedo pants in baby blue with glittering side stripes, paired with a double-breasted waistcoat over a crochet tank top. The outerwear was also strong, as in a trenchcoat in cornflower blue corduroy, another, sleeveless, in mint green snakeskin-effect leather.
Flared pants came in velvet, corduroy or suede, with front ties for the feminine designs, while pale knits added to the overall delicate feel of the collection.
Tie-dyed tops — a satin bomber with guitar-strap edging was a highlight — and a denim jacket painted with the face of Jimi Hendrix were clear nods toward psychedelia, but elsewhere, the references were less literal and all the

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Acne Studios Men’s Spring 2020

Jonny Johansson built a colorful and youthful lineup, rearranging familiar silhouettes and polishing them up for a fashion-hungry generation.
The designer once lived near a student campus, where he felt the breeziness of the students passing by — more seasoned than school kids, but not quite yet melded into the Establishment.
He recounted the scene: “I could see them — on the bicycle, always — some cool cat coming by with a blazer flying or a weird scarf.”
His cool cats grabbed this spirit and took off with it — dismounting the bicycle and hitting the streets of a fashion capital.
Suits were beautifully colored statement pieces, structured and boxy. This sturdiness was offset by interesting experiments with knits — a bright red sweater looked like a poncho, covered in fringes, while a top with a thin ruffle running across the chest felt more like a blouse than a sweater. His masterful handling of gender fluidity was also seen in a look that paired a sheer pastel shirt with lace trim and elegant, but masculine trousers, in black. Scarves, which are popping up all over the men’s shows, were worn around the neck with extra flair.
Embellishments came in the form of plastic panels —

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SportChek – Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Shoes Up to 30% Off at SportChek! Terms apply. Ends 6/19/19. Shop Now!

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SportChek – Men’s & Women’s Running & Training Shoes Up to $85 Off at SportChek! Terms apply. Ends 6/19/19. Shop Now!

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Cowboys, Y-Fronts and the New Drag: Brands to Check Out During Paris Men’s Week

PARIS — Paris men’s fashion week is having a moment: Hailing from Los Angeles, Sweden, China or Monaco, Rhude, Eytys, Li Ning and Alter are among the rising international brands that have been added to the official men’s calendar and presentation lineup this season.
GAMUT
Things are going pretty fast for Gamut, the fashion collective created in 2017 by former students of La Cambre fashion school in Brussels — which is surprising, because the seven French nationals are intent on taking their time.
“We’re continuing to experiment with the fashion calendar: We chose to skip fall 2019 to focus on our showroom, and realized that taking nine months to create a collection was a rhythm we quite liked,” said one of the members — all of whom prefer to remain anonymous — speaking at the collective’s studio at the Porte de la Chapelle, a somewhat sketchy area in the remote 18th arrondissement.
Since its first debut show last September, Gamut has added a photographer/visual director to its team, and landed a spot on the French couture federation’s official calendar for presentations. Now it’s behaving like full-fledged business with dedicated members in charge of sourcing, production, administration and communication. Decisions are still fully collegial, though.
“Each

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Cmmn Swdn Men’s Spring 2020

Adding an air of the tropics, python-inspired textures, exotic leaves and Seventies scarf motifs peppered the lineup of loose masculine tailoring. The overall mood telegraphed desert French Foreign Legionnaires, with Emma and Saif Bakir exploring military influences and subtle vintage touches.
The sense of heat was enhanced by the cracked leathers and burned holes dotting the large white short-sleeved shirts worn with Bermuda shorts with culotte volumes.
The feeling of hot-weather dressing was enhanced by the long scarves hanging from under caps, lending an allure of a desert trooper or Bedouin, while an ethnic flavor came through in the patterns of the pants with panels that tied at the front like a sarong.
The soft boxy shapes of the coats and tailored jackets were balanced by rock-style tight jeans in dark brown or yellow leather, or tight cycling short-style bottoms made from a shiny snakeskin print fabric and worn with large nylon coats printed with palm leaves or Fifties-style cropped sandy colored jackets.
Soft feminine looking fabrics balanced the masculinity of the shapes, lending a sense of delicate nostalgia to the collection, which nonetheless lacked a strong visual identity. Like a silhouette appearing on the desert horizon, distorted by the heat, a mirage.

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Represent Men’s Spring 2020

Designer brothers George and Michael Heaton made a few changes this season, pulling their show off the Milan runway in order to focus on a new ad campaign shot by Jordan Green. The campaign, themed around a car accident in the remote countryside and involving an English bull terrier, lands in the next few weeks on billboards and fly posters on both sides of the Atlantic.
The brothers also decamped to Rockfield Studios in Wales, recently featured in the film “Bohemian Rhapsody,” to unplug from their Manchester studio and get some fresh perspective.
The collection, on display in a Milan showroom, had more than a whiff of the countryside to it, and was done in a palette of olive green, brown, black and camel for the duo’s street-meets-utilitarian wear silhouettes. There were oversize Windbreakers inspired by fellow Mancunian Noel Gallagher, camou trousers and shorts, and hunting, field jackets and plaid coats fit for cold Welsh mornings.
The standout print featured vintage cars on T-shirts and pajama-style tops, a reference to the vintage cars parked in the driveway in front of Rockfield and to the theme of the upcoming ad campaign.

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SportChek – Men’s & Women’s Running & Training Shoes Up to $85 Off at SportChek! Terms apply. Ends 6/19/19. Shop Now!

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Bed J.W. Ford Men’s Spring 2020

“I wanted to explore this idea of a strong man, but it just didn’t fit with my universe,” said Shinpei Yamagishi, who decided to hire a female patternmaker to explore the topic from her point of view.
The result, a collection equally at ease with its feminine and masculine sides, felt true to form, heightened by lovely fabric developments, like a velvet houndstooth and exquisite handmade Indian embroidery details that formed contrast bands on black tailoring and long shirts, lending a lingerie feel, with soft coats hanging from the backs of looks.
Shirts and jackets patterned with inky stains were made using an eco-friendly bleach, borrowing a technique typically used for making kimono’s in Tokyo’s Kyoto district.
Key looks include a silk-crepe buttoned and belted tunic worn under a fluid tailored houndstooth suit that had a sensuality to it, resembling a pantsuit worn over pajamas, as well as a hooded sand-colored satin jacket and long tunic with embroidered lacy motifs at the hem, worn over a large tapered pant and spats, mixing military nods with femininity and romance.
Adding a contemporary twist were a couple of color-blocked turquoise, red, yellow and black looks from the designer’s ongoing collaboration with Adidas Originals.

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Wilhelmina Bolsters Men’s Division

Wilhelmina is beefing up its men’s division.
The modeling agency on Friday hired Matthew Trust and Gene Kogan from competing agency DNA Models to co-direct its men’s board. They will replace Taylor Hendrick, who had headed the men’s division, but is leaving the company, according to Bill Wackermann, Wilhelmina’s chief executive officer.
Wackermann, a former Condé Nast executive who joined Wilhelmina Modeling Inc. in 2016, has been restructuring the company to expand its focus beyond the runway. That includes the development of Wilhelmina Studio, a creative agency that creates digital content and influencer programs for brands including L’Orèal, Ugg and Disney.
“In my almost four years here, my goal has been to increase the quality of our people,” Wackermann said. “It’s a really competitive industry and we want to have the best and brightest people who are committed to model development and social media.”
He expects the addition of Trust and Kogan to help grow the company’s historically “strong” men’s division. The agency counts models such as Francisco Lachowski, Marlon Teixeira and RJ King on its roster. Wackermann said Trust and Kogan are skilled at not just scouting new talent but working with other agents to identify potential models. He said that while international guys

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Versace Men’s Spring 2020

Buckle up and put on those Biggie sunglasses because Donatella is roaring into town in her arty black Ferrari, and she’s ready for some fun, Nineties Versace style. Boy, did the designer pile it on for spring, with leopard spots, colored crystals, car prints and Lilly Pulitzer-decamps-to-Miami neon brights. And that was the men’s wear, not the few women’s looks.
Few surfaces in the collection were untouched by print, gloss or sparkle as models glowed and flashed like beacons on a dark road. Bold and garish, the show was 100-proof Versace, utterly true to the brand’s roots, and to the Gianni-cum-Donatella aesthetic of more, more, more – and repeat – preferably while swinging a leopard-print bag.
There was nothing subtle going on here, what with the big Gianni Versace signature splashed over neckties, or picked out in lines of tiny crystals on silk patterned shirts. For anyone wondering who Versace’s new owners are, there were some big clues in the baseball caps and Gianni Versace signature socks, classic entry price merch to please the folks at the publicly-quoted Capri Holdings.
While the yellow, orange, green or blue-tinged sunglasses didn’t carry big branding, they were a vintage house style, designed for the Notorious B.I.G.

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SportChek – Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Nike Clothing, Shoes & Bags 25% Off at SportChek! Terms apply. Ends 6/15/19. Shop Now!

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Olivier Saillard Stages Ode to Contemporary Men’s Fashion

FLORENCE — “For museums, it’s easier to present an evening dress from the Fifties by a house like Balenciaga or Dior, but it’s not so easy to provoke a dream with a gray costume,” said Olivier Saillard.
For his latest exhibition — titled “A Short Novel on Men’s Fashion, Thirty Years at Pitti Immagine Uomo” and produced in collaboration with the Fondazione Pitti Imagine Discovery to mark the 30th anniversary of Pitti Immagine Uomo — he set himself the challenge of curating a show based on how men actually dress. “I looked at the [museum’s] collection, evening dresses by Dior, Balenciaga, Vionnet, and finally I realized, we don’t have any jeans, T-shirts — ordinary clothes which are also poetic,” he said a preview of the exhibition on Tuesday.

A view of Olivier Saillard’s new exhibition in Florence. 
Astra Marina Cucebi

Lived-in looking ensembles are presented on wire clothes valets throughout a series of rooms at the Museum of Fashion and Costume at the Palazzo Pitti, arranged in groups united by forms, colors and shapes with fun details like scarves and shoelaces suspended in movement, as if lifted by a sudden gust of wind. The ensembles — spanning smart-casual, eveningwear, historical costume, streetwear and sportswear

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Salvatore Ferragamo Men’s Spring 2020

Having Palazzo Vecchio as the backdrop of a runway show is a privilege that only a quintessential Florentine brand such as Salvatore Ferragamo with a long history in this Tuscan city could hope to pull off. Of course such an incredible backdrop might have become a bit overwhelming with a weak collection. But that wasn’t the case for the lineup creative director Paul Andrew showed on Tuesday night.
The antique beauty of the Piazza della Signoria square actually created a charming contrast to the slightly futuristic take on the utilitarian aesthetic injected into the collection. Salvatore Ferragamo’s incredible craftsmanship and heritage stood out, but in a new version, never nostalgic or retro, but projected into the future. The high-tech approach to the treatment of materials, including leather which was embossed and then waxed for a glossy effect, as well a certain sharpness in the cuts, conveyed a look that felt very modern and cool yet never cold or too minimal. Accessories helped put the focus on the duality of the lineup: while the sailing bags and the leather sandals exuded classic elegance, the multipocket bags and chunky boots offered the most functional and cutting-edge essence of Andrew’s fashion proposal for

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Retailers Hail Return of Tailoring, Bold Color at London Men’s Week

LONDON — The light men’s wear schedule for spring gave retailers a chance to deep-dive into emerging trends and give emerging talent a chance to shine. Craig Green, Stefan Cooke and Martine Rose were among the darlings of the three-day showcase, with retailers lauding their bold designs and strong aesthetic.
“Craig Green’s collection was a glorious, uplifting, colorful expansion on a signature style that he has really defined,” said Bruce Pask, men’s wear fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, who also talked about the increasing influence of tailoring on the London runways.
Simon Longland, general merchandise manager for men’s wear and sports at Harrods, also noted the new focus on tailored looks. “There were celebrations of modern tailoring at its finest, generously cut and in a sleek style. This was a key feature that ran through several shows,” he said.
Here, retailers talk about some of the London highlights.

Backstage at Stefan Cooke men’s spring 2020. 
Kuba Dabrowski/WWD

Jack Cassidy, men’s wear buying manager, Selfridges:
Favorite collections: Fashion East, Stefan Cooke, Craig Green and A-Cold-Wall.
Top trends: Color, energy, leather, rich fabrications and textures, fun hair and hats.
Talent scouting: We are excited by Nicomede Talavera’s return to men’s wear which will be announced [this week] and his

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SportChek – Men’s Shoes & Clothing Up to 50% Off at SportChek! Terms apply. Ends 6/12/19. Shop Now!

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Rip Up the Calendar: Men’s Show Weeks Are Not Working for Everyone

LONDON — Has the men’s wear industry outgrown its boots?
This is a golden moment for men’s wear, with flourishing sales, a fashion-loving generation of shoppers, and Instagram propelling sneaker-crazy young men into stores like never before. Despite it all, the seasonal men’s fashion calendars — with the exception of Paris — are shrinking.
The New York, London and Milan schedules have been shedding designers and brands for many reasons: Fashion houses have chosen the coed route, opted to show or present in different cities, take part in trade shows such as Pitti Uomo, or stage direct-to-consumer events, or digital shows.
Others have decided to take a step back and invest their marketing money elsewhere, refusing to be shackled to the runway — or the presentation space — season after season.
Christopher Raeburn, a longtime fixture on the London men’s calendar, has decided to pull out of the city’s spring/summer 2020 lineup, which runs from Saturday to June 10. He said he wants to explore new ways of engaging with his consumers and community.
“It is our job to disrupt, to capture and create a new mood,” said Raeburn, who last year was named global creative director of Timberland, and who continues to operate his

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Chalayan Men’s Spring 2020

Easy, cool and lightning-quick.
Hussein Chalayan’s show took place on a little pedestrian street across from his Mayfair store, and the setup was refreshingly simple, with all guests standing, Mother Nature providing the lighting and models carrying their own music, via little boomboxes that came straight from 1986.
There may have been a complex, interesting back story to the clothes — Chalayan is passionate about what he does, and his collections are often underpinned by sociopolitical and historical themes — but the collection itself was a breeze.
There were stripes galore, on suits with ties at the waist and down the leg, on cotton shirts and billowy or flat-front trousers and on collarless tops. Trousers and shorts were rolled at the bottom, some came with flaps or folds, while lightweight shirts were boxy or had rounded shoulders and elbow-skimming sleeves.
Silhouettes were languid and made for hot-weather climes, and Chalayan shaped them with a drawstring here and a snap, knot or buckle there.
While he may have begun with the idea of dance and movement among ethnic groups colonized by Western nations, and about the tensions between indigenous cultures and their occupiers across the centuries, he ended with the most democratic of collections, which should

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SportChek – Men’s Shoes & Clothing Up to 50% Off at SportChek! Terms apply. Ends 6/12/19. Shop Now!

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Qasimi Men’s Spring 2020

Some 12 tons of coffee grounds were used to pave the runway of Qasimi’s runway. “I wanted something poetic that evokes the senses. It has the right texture and color, and smells good,” said designer Khalid S. Al Qasimi after the show.
He didn’t grind those coffee beans for the show, of course – the grounds were sourced from a company that recycles them to make burning logs.
The UAE-born designer wanted his new collection to address the political tension in the Middle East where he comes from, and give it a sense of positivity.
“I have to be political, it’s not just on trend. Coming from the Middle East, I have a duty to discuss politics. Fashion is my kind of material to work with and expressing it,” he said.
Political messages aside, the clothes were well made, breezy and relaxed and ideal for the hot, urban and wealthy environs of Dubai. There were striped oversized T-shirts, loose shirts, trench coats and military jackets in beige, mustard, olive green, navy and grey, while the few pink and lilac sporty looks will be great for nights out in the Lamborghini.

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British Label Stefan Cooke Finds Its Voice, and Flies Solo, at London Fashion Week Men’s

LONDON — Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt, cofounders of the label Stefan Cooke and finalists for the LVMH Prize, are about to stage their first solo runway show on June 9 during London Men’s Fashion Week, and they’re feeling the heat. “It feels surreal to be doing it by ourselves. It also feels intimidating,” said Cooke, who has witnessed a shower of accolades over the past two years.
The brand has won the H&M Design Award and the L’Oréal Professional Creative Award, but Cooke and Burt will now have to wait until September to see if they’ve scooped the LVMH Prize.
Having shown under the Fashion East umbrella, the duo have moved on from conceptual to more commercially focused designs. The label is stocked at Machine-A, Dover Street Market and Matchesfashion.com.
Their lines for spring/summer 2020 have a more relaxed silhouette than in past seasons, where trousers and shirts were tight and cropped. They will also be introducing a new bag concept, a category that’s been performing well for the company.
As they build the brand, they’ve been asking themselves some difficult questions, such as: “How do you take all of the things that are Stefan Cooke, like textile manipulations, and turn them into

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SportChek – Flash Sale – Men’s Clothing & Shoes up to 50% Off at SportChek! Terms apply. Ends 6/5/19. Shop Now!

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New York Men’s Day Offers Peek at All-Stars, Emerging Labels

New York Men’s Day’s afternoon session on Monday showcased both emerging designers and those who have created more-established businesses, ones touted as All-Stars. Those included Krammer & Stoudt, Descendant of Thieves and Wood House Army. Private Policy, which will hold a runway show on Wednesday, was also part of the mix.
Three  pieces from Krammer & Stoudt were psychedelic-colored updates of the brand’s Americana-skewed workwear, with jackets and pants created from 12-oz. denim and decorated with Day-Glo colors in designs including hot rod flames.
Julian Woodhouse of Wood House Army offered up WHA, three graphic black-and-white vertically striped looks from his diffusion line that included an anorak, shorts and a one-piece with military details.
For Descendant of Thieves, the brand offered up an assortment of multipurpose pieces for the travel guy, including reversible shorts, lightweight jackets and swimwear that could double as regular shorts.
Private Policy used the All-Star showcase to launch Pxl, a see-now-buy-now capsule collection of black, blue and green prints on shirts, trousers, caps, a bikini top and racing shorts.
Among the other brands showing at New York Men’s Day were International Woolmark Prize 2018/19 nominees Ka Wa Key, who presented a romantic collection of hand-done tie-dye patterns and distressing on airy knits and

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Wan Hung Men’s Spring 2020

In his second runway show at New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Wan Hung expanded and enhanced his design language through elevated basics in vibrant monochromatic looks and dark ensembles.
Metamorphosis was the theme of the Central Saint Martins graduate’s spring collection that was based on the Green Snake Chinese folk legend about snakes transforming into human beings.
Several tops in the collection feature asymmetric patterns, open backs, exposed shoulders and cutout details on T-shirts, shirts and sweatshirts, as well as transparent tops and jackets intended to represent shedding skin.
Hung also looked to the film “A Streetcar Named Desire” and drew comparisons between the folk legend and characters Stella Kowalski and Blanche DuBois, specifically how the sisters grew to be so different over time. With this in mind, Hung unveiled women’s dresses as a nod to the legend and the film.

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Men’s Designer Inspirations

The shows must go on — literally.
Although the schedule is sparse, with many big-name designers taking a pass, a few brands are still participating in New York Fashion Week: Men’s, which kicks off today for its three-day run.
New York, which jumped up from July this time, is now starting the men’s spring season, pre-dating London, Florence, Milan and Paris.
Here, New York designers gave WWD an exclusive sneak peek at their vision, which ranged from the 50th anniversary of the Stonewall Inn demonstration and the art of deconstruction to Eighties queer culture.
 
“This collection was inspired by a clash between the mundane qualities of rural domesticity and the rebellious fluorescence of the ’80s queer underground.” — Neil Grotzinger, NIHL
“Deconstruct the traditions.” — Daisuke Obana, N. Hoolywood
“Inspired by the Stonewall Inn riot 50 years ago, the Private Policy spring 2020 collection is a call for community, so we can overcome societal challenges and prevail with courage together.” — Siying Qu and Haoran Li, Private Policy
“With a keen interest in exploring the hardness of the urban environment against the softness of an untouched culture, Abysm’s debut collection is inspired by the duality cultural and life experiences from my youth, fused with my desire to

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Men’s Suit Trend 2020: New Wave

The resurgence began during the men’s shows in January and is likely to continue as the spring 2020 collections kick off, beginning with Saint Laurent in L.A. and Prada in Shanghai next week, and then moving on to London, Milan and Paris.

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SportChek – Men’s Shoes & Clothing Up to 50% Off at SportChek! Terms apply. Ends 6/5/19. Shop Now!

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Harry Styles Proves It’s a New Era for Men’s Fashion at Gucci’s Cruise 2020 Show

Harry Styles, 2019 Met Gala, Red Carpet Fashions“I’m feeling Gucci.” Harry Styles, probably.
No one throws a party quite like the fashion powerhouse and its Cruise 2020 Collection runway show was no different. On Tuesday,…

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Dior Men’s Kim Jones Edits Issue of A Magazine Curated By

GUEST CURATOR: Kim Jones, creative director of Dior Men, has edited the new issue of fashion publication A Magazine Curated By.
Launching in London on May 29, the magazine’s 19th issue, named A Magazine Curated By Kim Jones, was entirely overseen by Jones, from the two covers, shot by photographer David Vasiljevic under the creative direction of Dior makeup image director Peter Philips, to the 26 artist “letter” pages that make up the hefty 248-page tome.
The designer’s approach for the issue takes the form of an alphabet retracing his inspirations and eclectic circle of friends: Subjects range from “A” for Naomi Campbell’s Africa, “P” for punk with a photo shoot by Jackie Nickerson, and ending with “Z” for Amanda Lear, whose song “Alphabet” was one of the inspirations for the magazine.

Kim Jones and Naomi Campbell by Hugo Scott in A Magazine Curated By Kim Jones. 
Courtesy

Other contributors include Japanese illustrator Hajime Sorayama, who imagined a portrait of model Bella Hadid in his signature futuristic style, photographers Brett Lloyd, Pierre-Ange Carlotti and Nick Knight, as well as U.S. artist Kaws, who submitted an artwork featuring Kate Moss cuddling his signature plush toys, surrounded by the Kaws bee illustration designed by the artist for

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EXCLUSIVE: Mytheresa to Launch Men’s Wear for a Post-Streetwear World

LONDON — This is a man’s world, to borrow from James Brown, with big retailers such as Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Selfridges casting fresh eyes over their men’s fashion floors and expanding their spaces to cater to a brand-conscious generation.
Online players such as Mr Porter, Matchesfashion.com, Farfetch and the British site Endclothing are making more space for sneakers, men’s capsules, exclusive products and limited editions, while the Paris men’s show schedule is back-to-back, with new international names and hot contemporary labels that show men’s and women’s wear alike.
Mytheresa, which until now has sold women’s wear only, is vaulting into the arena with a gutsy proposition to deliver a new elegance to the category, complete with a lineup of luxe brands, tailored clothing and price points suited to shoppers with deep pockets.
Where other retailers may be stretching their offer or floor space to include more streetwear, T-shirts, sneakers, grooming products and entry price points, Mytheresa is taking a different direction in the belief there is untapped demand for a new take on the classics and a more formal attitude.

Michael Kliger, president of Mytheresa. 
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While Mytheresa’s offer will include sneakers and lots of casualwear, anyone looking for pure streetwear will be let down.
“It’s

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New York Fashion Week: Men’s Hanging on by a Thread

New York Fashion Week: Men’s is on life support.
Less than three weeks until the start of the men’s spring runway season, the Council of Fashion Designers of America has finally released its calendar — and it’s not pretty.
There are fewer than 20 men’s designers showing and half are with Agentry PR’s New York Men’s Day. Absent from the calendar are some designers who have been active supporters of the men’s shows since they were launched four years ago, including Todd Snyder, Robert Geller, Ovadia New York, Carlos Campos and Bode.
Instead, the calendar kicks off on June 3 with Agentry’s presentations of small and emerging designers only. The following day, N.Hoolywood will show at 6 p.m., followed by Frere at 7 p.m. The final day on June 5 will see presentations from Hecho, Freemans Sporting Club, Untitled Collective, Dyne and Linder, as well as shows from Private Policy, NIHL and Grungy Gentleman.
The reasons for the lack of participation are several. First, this marks the first time the men’s shows have moved from July to June to coincide with women’s resort. That timing is early for a lot of brands since the men’s market in New York is generally in mid- to

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Giorgio Armani to Hold Signature Men’s Show in June at Storied Via Borgonuovo HQ

HOME SWEET HOME: For the first time in 18 years, Giorgio Armani will show his namesake men’s collection for spring 2020 at his storied headquarters at 11 Via Borgonuovo.
The show is scheduled on June 17 at 5 p.m., closing Milan Men’s Fashion Week, which kicks off on June 14.
Armani took control in 1996 of the stately 17th-century building, Palazzo Orsini, named after the 12th-century family, but in 2001 the designer unveiled offices and his Teatro, designed by Japanese architect Tadao Ando on Milan’s Via Bergognone — in a former Nestlé industrial area, and effectively helping to revamp that part of the city.
The Emporio Armani show will be held at the Teatro on June 15 at 11 a.m.
The designer has most recently been experimenting with different formats and venues. Last September, he staged a coed Emporio Armani show at Milan’s Linate Airport — at the Hangar where the imposing Emporio Armani billboard has been placed since 1996. That was the first time a fashion show was held at that site and it was followed by a Robbie Williams concert.
In February, for the first time, Armani held a coed show for his signature line at Silos, the exhibition space he opened in 2015, opposite the

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Sies Marjan Expected to Show Men’s in Paris

Count Sies Marjan as the latest brand to make the jump from New York to Paris.
Sources said the buzzy New York-based brand will hold its first men’s-only show in June during Paris Fashion Week. The company declined to comment but an announcement is expected next week.

The label, designed by Sander Lak, a former head of design for Dries Van Noten, has historically shown men’s looks during his women’s show in New York, but a more-intense focus on its men’s collection has prompted the company to opt for the Paris runway where many of the higher-profile brands show.

Sies Marjan launched as a luxury women’s label in 2016 in New York. Lak, a Dutch native, debuted his first full men’s line for fall 2018.
Before spending five years at Dries Van Noten, Lak, a graduate of Central Saint Martins, worked at Balmain in Paris and Phillip Lim in New York. His Sies Marjan brand is known for its use of color, proportion and innovative materials.

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Agentry to Open New York Fashion Week: Men’s Again

Agentry PR is pivoting.
The organizer of New York Men’s Day, a showcase for emerging designers, will once again open the men’s spring calendar, working in tandem with the Council of Fashion Designers of America.
The CFDA shifted the men’s dates to June 3 to 5 this season to coincide with the women’s resort calendar. This means the New York-based men’s shows will take place ahead of the men’s shows in London, Florence, Milan and Paris.
Agentry had considered sticking with the former July dates to give the designers more time to prepare their collections and align with the New York men’s trade shows, but opted to stick with CFDA instead.
But there are other changes: New York Men’s Day will now be held at Daylight Studios & Location 05, next to the newly opened Hudson Yards complex on the West Side of Manhattan. For the past few seasons, the shows had been held at Dune Studios in the financial district.
New York Men’s Day will feature presentations from nine designers, down from 12 in prior iterations. Five will be held over a two-hour period in the morning and four in the afternoon.
But the event will also feature an All Stars Showcase where previous Men’s

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Dior to Open Men’s Pop-ups Featuring Soroyama Robot

Dior Men is getting a lot of mileage out of its Hajime Sorayama sculpture.
Last November, the brand’s artistic director Kim Jones commissioned a 39-foot-tall sculpture of a robot woman by Japanese contemporary artist Sorayama to be the centerpiece for his pre-fall 2019 men’s show in Tokyo. The artist also designed a Dior logo for the season and his futuristic imagery became part of the prints used in the collection.
Now, smaller versions of the sculpture are making their way to retailers in North America, where they will be featured in a series of pop-ups this spring.
The first debuted at The Park at CityCenterDC in Washington, D.C., on Tuesday. The 16.4-foot version will remain on site through May 7.
On May 1, Holt Renfrew’s Yorkdale store in Toronto will install a 9.2-foot version that will remain there through May 31. On the other coast, South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif., will take delivery of the robot that had been at CityCenter and install it in its Jewel Court on May 14. It will remain there through May 28.
Designed like pods, the interconnected spaces are modular and can be adapted to a number of different retail locations. Inside the metal pods are mirrors

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Penney’s Changes Chief Men’s Merchant

The changes are continuing at J.C. Penney.
James Starke, the company’s longtime head of men’s wear, has exited the retailer and has been replaced by Jeff Useforge.
Useforge, whose title is senior vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s and children’s, will oversee the company’s private and national brands. He was formerly vice president and divisional merchandise manager of men’s, big and tall, activewear and team apparel for Penney’s. Before that, he was a senior buyer of big and tall and The Foundry, a big and tall concept that it had once hoped to roll out as a chain.
Useforge has more than 30 years of retail experience and began his career with Mercantile Department Stores. He also spent five years with Saks Inc. in the Proffitt’s and McRae’s division, where he was gmm of men’s and children’s. He has also worked for Bon-Ton and Kohl’s.
Starke had spent 13 years at Penney’s, mainly in the men’s department. His most recent role was senior vice president and senior gmm of men’s, children’s, jewelry and home, according to his LinkedIn profile. He joined Penney’s in 2005 after spending eight years at Foley’s in Houston, also primarily in the men’s area.
He could not be reached

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Koral Delves Into Men’s With Equinox 

LOS ANGELES — Koral, the activewear brand backed by Seven For All Mankind cofounder Peter Koral, will enter the men’s space exclusively with Equinox before a broader rollout at retail.
The men’s line launches with more than 20 stockkeeping units, priced from $ 75 to $ 300 and utilizing many of the same performance fabrics seen in the women’s line, such as lightweight scuba. The men’s collection takes on a streetwear-inspired aesthetic and a color scheme of navy and taupe.
The official launch is April 30 in 19 Equinox stores for a six-month exclusive, in addition to Koral’s online shop. The collection will broaden for fall with a larger stockkeeping unit count distributed to more retailers.
“I would love if men’s could be just as big as the women’s business one day,” chief marketing officer and cofounder Marcelo Kugel said. “I think we can get a stronghold in the market and that’s why Equinox wanted to be our main partner on this because they see the opportunity for growth and then we’ve also been approached by Peloton, Barry’s Boot Camp and Net-a-porter with the launch of fall.”
Koral helped fund the business in the beginning, fueling about $ 8.5 million worth of working capital. The business has now been

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Men’s Brands Jump Into Sustainability Efforts

Like many things in men’s wear, it often takes a bit longer for a trend to take hold than it does in women’s wear. Sustainability has been no exception. But now, most men’s brands and retailers are all in.
While some men’s designers, such as Christopher Raeburn, were early adopters, others are just now jumping on board. According to Cara Smyth, vice president of Glasgow Caledonian New York College and founder of the Fair Fashion Center sustainability program, those in the outdoor industry were among the first to embrace the movement due to their ties to nature. But the movement has since spread to a variety of men’s wear brands.
“Many men’s brands are interested in sustainability as it provides operating efficiencies that reduce impacts and reflect the values of the brand to both consumers and even investors where applicable,” she said.
So whether it’s PVH’s goal to generate zero waste, or Perry Ellis’ new solar panel installation project at its distribution center in Seneca, S.C., companies big and small have gotten on board.
Here is a closer look at some of the brands leading the way in men’s wear.
Christopher Raeburn
Just call him the King of Upcycling. The U.K.-based designer has been a champion

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Etro Men’s Line to Make Runway Comeback in June

RUNWAY RETURN: Etro is bringing its men’s line back on the catwalk.
Following a three-season runway hiatus, during which Etro men’s creative director Kean Etro organized engaging presentations, the brand will unveil its spring 2020 collection with a show on June 16.
The last men’s collection that Etro showed on the catwalk was the spring 2018 lineup, which was presented with a coed runway show at the Palazzo del Ghiaccio venue in Milan.
The location of the upcoming men’s show is still to be disclosed. After seasons of shows held at Palazzo del Ghiaccio, last February Etro showed its women’s fall 2019 collection at Milan’s Giuseppe Verdi music conservatory.
Etro, which counts more than 200 stores, is investing in communication and marketing, strengthening the experience in stores and increasing digital content. Europe is still Etro’s biggest market, representing 30 percent of sales. It is followed by Asia and the U.S., accounting for 30 and 20 percent of the brand’s total business, respectively.

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WWD Men’s Summit: Hilary Coles of Hims

Hims is making waves in the wellness industry by tapping into a market that has otherwise been largely neglected: men.
“We launched Hims to address and normalize conversations that have been too often stigmatized and educate men that it’s OK to take care of themselves and actually, it’s kind of weird not to,” said Hilary Coles, Hims’ brand leader. “We help men take care of themselves through a telemedicine platform. What that means is that we offer men access to over-the-counter and prescription medicine via an easy-to-use online consultation that pairs them with doctors licensed in their states and from a network of pharmacies across the country.”
Launched 18 months ago, Hims now has “hundreds of thousands” of men using its platform, said Coles, which gives them access to FDA-approved, medical-grade products, educational tools and medical expertise.
“In health care, there’s a debilitating stigma attached to really important issues for men. It’s largely caused by a vacuum and a lack of conversation because men are unfortunately afraid to approach these hard conversations and they’re afraid to approach them with doctors, with their closest friends and even with their partners,” Coles said.
To combat this stigma, Coles and her team place extra emphasis on packaging

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Chief Merchant Scott Norris Exits Men’s Wearhouse

The changes have begun at Tailored Brands.
The California-based men’s wear retailer has parted ways with Scott Norris, the long-time chief merchant for its flagship Men’s Wearhouse division, WWD has learned.
Norris, who had been with the company since the mid-1990s, was named brand president of Men’s Wearhouse and Moores in 2014. He started his career as a buyer for Macy’s in 1991 and joined The Men’s Wearhouse as executive vice president and general merchandise manager in 1996, according to his LinkedIn profile.
“After 22 incredible years and countless contributions to The Men’s Wearhouse, Scott Norris has decided to leave the company to try something new,” a company spokesperson confirmed. “We wish him every success in his next chapter.”
Norris could not be reached for comment.
Last fall, Tailored Brands brought Carrie Ask on board as president of the Men’s Wearhouse and Moores brands. Norris, who had held that position since 2014, was named chief merchant.
At the end of March, the company elevated Dinesh Lathi, the former executive chairman, to chief executive officer, succeeding Doug Ewert, who had retired from the top post at the end of September 2018.
Lathi has been highly critical of the company’s past strategies, saying the retailer has underinvested in its

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J. Crew Closes Liquor Store Men’s Shop

It’s the end of an era for J. Crew.
When the retailer opened its Liquor Store stand-alone men’s concept a decade ago, it set a new standard for men’s wear specialty retailing and was one of the first experiential retail stores with its heritage-heavy clubby interior and third-party brands, including Red Wing shoes and Thomas Mason shirts.
It also put helped Todd Snyder, who was J. Crew’s head of men’s wear at the time, on the map. He worked with Andy Spade and then-chief executive officer Mickey Drexler to create the must-visit men’s emporium in TriBeCa. It also served to introduce the Ludlow suit model, which remains among the company’s best-selling models today.
But now a decade after opening its doors, the Liquor Store is no more. J. Crew quietly shuttered the shop at the end of March. The company said it first decided to close the store last year, adding: “Each year we review those leases that are coming to their end, and this year like last year, we made the strategic decision to close those stores where it made financial sense to do so.”
J. Crew opened a separate men’s store in Dumbo in Brooklyn last August and all told has 16

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Grailed Founder on Future of the Men’s Fashion ‘Movement’

Men’s fashion has changed a lot in the past decade, and Arun Gupta sees it changing still.
Led by a young male consumer obsessed with streetwear, a new interest in fashion has led the popular success of sites like Grailed, which Gupta founded in 2013 as a marketplace and community platform for “super enthusiasts,” like himself. But already the culture is moving beyond streetwear.
“The men’s clothing movement, it being acceptable for men to care more about the clothes they wear, has been building for the past 10 years,” Gupta said. “But streetwear is the last phase of it.”
Already on Grailed, he said the inventory is about evenly split between streetwear and fashion, possibly a sign that the realm is cooling off a bit. And then there’s the split between the two types of fashion consumers Gupta is seeing.
“One is the consumer who buys to wear it, then there’s the consumer buying to flip it,” Gupta said. “It’s very prevalent in sneakers and now very prevalent in streetwear and it’s pretty unique to the ecosystem.”
He compared the level of resale with a brand like Celine, where new items have been slow to appear on Grailed and a brand like Supreme, which shows

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MEN’S FORUM: The Whitaker Group’s James Whitner Relies on Instinct and Close Consumer Connections to Stay Ahead

For The Whitaker Group’s founder James Whitner, being the consumer is essential to knowing the consumer.
With an assortment of stores via his company’s four retail entities — Social Status, A.P.B., Prosper and A Ma Maniére — Whitner emphasized the importance of being submerged with the people you are trying to connect with. He asked, “Are you focused on the consumer? Do you know who the consumer is and why? Most people don’t. You’re casting a wide net in men’s wear…I’m the guy. I’m the guy who’s buying the stuff and wearing the stuff.”
Aside from anticipating what his shoppers want, Whitner spoke of how he tries to design spaces that they will emotionally respond to. “I’m always trying to re-create the places and spaces I’ve been in. I feel like I have a romantic affair with the consumer in the process. Can someone cue the music? [Romantic tunes follow.] When I walk into a store, this is how I feel. I’m being romanced by the romance,” he said.
Referring to outdated business practices that can’t keep up with quick fire social media and fashion’s rapid speed of change, Whitner said, “You’ve got to set your businesses up to move like we move.

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Men’s Wear Movers

These 12 designers, brands, retailers and influencers are changing the face of the men’s wear industry.
 
1. Hedi Slimane
 
As the original androgynous designer who set in motion the skinny tailoring movement in his days at Dior Homme, it’s no surprise that Hedi Slimane’s appointment as artistic, creative and image director at Celine was one of the most newsworthy debuts of last year, marking the label’s first steps into the men’s arena.
“I am enchanted; what a great choice,” said the late Karl Lagerfeld, one of Slimane’s most enthusiastic fans, at the time of Slimane’s appointment at Celine in January 2018.
Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, has called Slimane “one of the most talented designers of our time.”
The Frenchman has a track record of reinterpreting cool and attracting youth, tapping into the energy of the music and art scenes and positing his designs in a broader cultural context.
The nomination — which also includes heading Celine’s women’s fashion as well as leather goods, accessories and fragrances — was part of an ambition to at least double the brand’s sales within five years, making it one of LVMH’s top labels after Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior.
With his debut

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Mytheresa Expands Into Men’s Wear, Taps Chris Kyvetos

LONDON — Munich-based retailer Mytheresa is adding men’s wear to its offer and bringing Sneakerboy founder Chris Kyvetos to be its new buying director of men’s wear.
Kyvetos, a serial entrepreneur who founded the Australian chain of concept showrooms selling high-end and mass market sneakers via iPad, will be tasked with building a new dedicated men’s wear team and developing the retailer’s market strategy for the category.
Kyvetos is also the buyer and franchise partner of Balenciaga in Australia and previously served as a consultant at Stylebop, another Munich-based e-commerce site. In addition to Sneakerboy, which Kyvetos has opened to resellers as of late and developed as a space where “kids sell shoes to each other,” he has also been planning the launch of his own sneaker line, Athletic Footwear, as well as the opening of a new China atelier that will champion ethical and transparent footwear manufacturing.
For Mytheresa, hiring Kyvetos and moving into men’s wear was the next step, following on from the strong growth of the company’s women’s wear business and expansion into kids’ wear last year. “Men’s wear will be a natural expansion for Mytheresa and represents a significant business opportunity going forward. We see a strong momentum for men’s

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Noma T.D. RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Noma T.D.
Main message: Masako Noguchi and Takuma Sasaki have been designing their brand for more than a decade, but their latest collection was the first one they presented at Tokyo Fashion Week. First they showed a short film directed by Rinko Kawauchi with music by Hiroshi Fujiwara. Titled “Harmony,” it showed simple, everyday scenes at a family country house and the surrounding wilderness as winter changes to spring.
Next, a black curtain opened to reveal eight models in relaxed, outdoorsy Noma T.D. looks. A pajama-like set of flannel pants and a shirt in a big, bold check pattern was paired with a black fishing vest for men, while a gray, navy and dark green floral print satin dress peeked out from under a plush wool coat for women. There was also a blue tie-dyed sweatsuit, a shirt embroidered with large flowers, and a quilted black coat with striped satin sleeves in black and deep blue.
The result: The offering, while small, showed a balance between street-ready and outdoorsy pieces, making it well suited for the modern urbanite.

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The Women of Men’s Wear

It’s not just an old boys club in men’s wear. There are a few women who have spent nearly their entire careers designing, merchandising, presenting or selling to the guys. Here, a look at 10 ladies who have made their mark in the men’s industry and continue to stand out from the crowd.
Mary Beth Blake, president, Jos. A. Bank

Mary Beth Blake 
Courtesy Photo

Work history:
Blake joined Tailored Brands Inc. in 2008 as the chief merchandising officer of K&G, then served as executive vice president for Tailored Brands. She was charged with overseeing the Jos. A. Bank division in 2016. Blake started her career in merchandising with May Department Stores Co. and also spent several years with Macy’s including a stint as general merchandise manager of men’s wear for the Midwest division.
What do you find appealing about the men’s industry?
Men’s wear is undergoing transformation as men are becoming more style- and fit-aware. This sea change as well as casualization of his work wardrobe make it an exciting time to be in the men’s industry.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of being a woman in men’s wear?
One advantage is that women bring an outside perspective to the men’s clothing business. Men’s clothing is evolving, and we

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Salvatore Ferragamo to Stage Men’s Show at Pitti Uomo

MILAN — Salvatore Ferragamo will unveil its spring 2020 men’s wear collection in the brand’s native city, Florence.
The luxury fashion house will stage a runway show on June 11 during international men’s trade show Pitti Uomo.
Following three seasons of coed shows hosted during the women’s editions of Milan Fashion Week, Salvatore Ferragamo will hold the “Florence Calling” event dedicated to its men’s wear collection, designed by creative director Paul Andrew with the support of Guillaume Meilland, head of men’s wear. Andrew has recently put on hold his namesake footwear line to focus exclusively on the design of Salvatore Ferragamo men’s and women collections.
“Florence has always been a creative and inspirational platform for Salvatore Ferragamo and for our founder. Pitti Uomo is therefore the natural location for expressing the contemporary vision that represents us today: strong cultural continuity between different generations, with a constant eye to the future,” Andrew said.
“It is an opportunity for emphasizing our DNA, that added value that makes us distinctly unique,” he added.
Salvatore Ferragamo chairman Ferruccio Ferragamo put the focus on the special link between the company and its native city.
“Florence is our heart, a part of our history,” Ferragamo said. “At a moment of great consolidation

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Ranking the ultimate lineups in NCAA men’s hockey history

With the 2019 tournament near, we look at the legacy of college hockey’s top programs and rank the ultimate lineups, based on the players’ success at the NHL level.
www.espn.com – NHL

Cinoh RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Cinoh
Main message: Takayuki Chino has been heading his own brands for over a decade, but as one of the winners of the 2019 Tokyo Fashion Award, he staged a runway show for the first time this season. With it, he showed his audience just why Cinoh has reached levels of popularity that many Tokyo brands can only hope for, being carried by top retailers across Japan.
The designer showed a relaxed, slightly disheveled sophistication. A leopard print, plush fleece pantsuit and long, fringed straight skirts for women shared the runway with men’s suits that were reimagined with pullovers in the place of button-front jackets. Long satin dresses, pleather overalls, fuzzy knits and easy fit trousers were given a subtle injection of Nineties grunge when paired with oversize plaid jackets and shirts. The theme was also hinted at in the show’s soundtrack, which included an instrumental backing track of Nirvana’s 1991 hit “Smells Like Teen Spirit.”
The result: With equal parts elegance and comfort, it was a collection that will surely resonate with Tokyo’s fashion-forward youth, without alienating older consumers.

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Nobuyuki Matsui Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Nobuyuki Matsui
Main message: The first clue that Nobuyuki Matsui’s first Tokyo Fashion Week outing was going to be something unusual was the invitation: a small cardboard box holding a single air pillow, on which details of the show were printed. When audience members arrived, they were asked to step over the back of long benches in order to reach their seats. The long, narrow runway was strewn with air packaging, some filled with goose down, which popped under the models’ feet, adding a strange kind of percussion to the soundtrack.
Some of the clothes also incorporated the pillow-like pouches, which were tied with strings to coats or stuffed inside a tan leather vest that was cut to look like another form of packaging material. But the concept didn’t run through the entire collection, and some looks of simple pants and shirts felt bland and unimaginative. More interesting was Matsui’s modern take on tailoring, which included pullover vests and suits with exposed stitching, contrast fabrics, and trousers that were either cropped or cinched with belts at the ankle.
The result: The collection showed ingenuity and a fresh take on some men’s wear staples, but it was inconsistent and would have benefited from

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NCAA men’s hockey tournament: Tiering all 16 teams, Frozen Four picks

The field is set for the 2019 college hockey tournament. Here’s how each team stacks up, plus our predictions for who will win it all.
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Bloomingdale’s Introducing Dylan Gray Men’s Brand for Spring

Bloomingdale’s is getting back into the men’s private brand business.
A decade after the retailer retired its in-house collections brands, Joseph & Lyman and Metropolitan View, in favor of a classifications strategy, it is launching a bridge collection for spring under the name Dylan Gray.
The line is described as “a modern, sophisticated update on classic men’s sportswear that fuses the elegance of European luxury with the ease of American sportswear.”
The 38-piece collection of soft tailored clothing, transitional outerwear, knits and trousers is manufactured predominantly in Europe. It is designed to be a hybrid of tailored and sportswear.
“We felt there was a white space in the European transitional classic zone in our stores,” said Dan Leppo, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s and home for Bloomingdale’s. “We think there’s an opportunity with all that’s happening in direct-to-consumer today to offer great value and great fashion that moves beyond commodity.”
Leppo said Dylan Gray is “made with the modern man in mind, offering solutions for work or play for today’s smart casual lifestyle, without sacrificing style. It’s about fusing classic sportswear with Old World sophistication at a compelling price point.”
Prices will range from $ 98 to $ 698 and will include marled bird’s-eye polos,

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Postelegant RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Postelegant
Main message: One of the six winners of the 2019 Tokyo Fashion Award, Yuya Nakata’s fledgling brand (established only two years ago) aims to make “timeless modern wear with the best materials and details.” For the brand’s first collection shown on the runway, it did just that. The silhouettes were classic and refined, including different cuts of long coats, tailored trousers and calf-length dresses. And while they were beautifully cut to move with the body, it was the fabrics that set them apart from simple basics. Wool blends in sky blue and red, ribbed knits in the perfect shade of medium gray, a fine, bone-colored twill, and a trio of cloths all in dusty pink all begged a second look.
The result: A newcomer on the Tokyo fashion scene, Nakata proved himself as one to watch with a collection that went beyond elegant to something new and undeniably modern.

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Mistergentleman Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Mistergentleman
Main message: Always one of the bright spots during Tokyo Fashion Week, Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii’s men’s brand mixed easy tailoring with streetwear, outdoor and women’s wear influences for fall. Models walked the grass-like carpeted runway in retro, relaxed snakeskin print suits paired with satin double-breasted shirts and neckerchiefs, or velvet pants with roomy overcoats. The more casual looks included dad jeans, hooded sweatshirts and duck canvas jackets, all in neutral shades of gray, brown, khaki and black, interspersed with pops of purple, green and orange.
Osumi and Yoshii played with proportions, shrinking trenches and puffer jackets into crop tops and styling them over wool coats and loose sweaters. Moto, letterman and toggle jackets were chopped up into bib-like pieces and layered over outerwear, while a series of coats and jackets were cut from two contrasting fabrics: olive corduroy and gray wool flannel, or plush fleece with the same snake print from earlier pieces. Subtle feminine touches came in the form of silk scarves worn as belts over coats, and a handful of equestrian print jackets and shifts. The brand also debuted its latest collaboration products, including quilted bags made with Outdoor Products and a black satin bomber designed

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The Reracs RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: The Reracs
Main message: With her inaugural show during Tokyo Fashion Week, Naomi Kurahashi displayed just how to present classic pieces on a runway without boring the audience: make sure to have plenty of variety, use beautiful textiles, keep the pace quick, and employ inventive styling choices. The brand lived up to its profile, which says that it’s “backed by quality and practicality,” but proved that it has so much more to offer.
The collection was made up of variations on a pretty basic theme: straight-legged or relaxed, jogger-style trousers paired with V-neck sweaters or just about any kind of outerwear imaginable, all turned out in neutral tones of gray, black, navy, white and beige. But the superior construction and luxurious textiles elevated the collection beyond simple classics, with suiting material showing a drape resembling that of matte jersey, and a black pleather poncho turning more heads than it would have if it had been made from animal skin. The fabrics were so beautiful on their own that there was no need for flashy prints, but occasional flashes of Fair Isle, argyle or checked patterns kept things interesting.
The result: Kurahashi has been designing The Reracs for nearly a decade, but proved

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Beverly Hills Men’s Suiting Veteran Jumps to Avedon

Stuart Newmark, the longtime general manager of the now-shuttered men’s retailer Carroll & Co., has created a new customization concept within existing retailer Avedon in Beverly Hills with the help of senior buyer and partner in the business Nancy Herrera.
Newmark, who served as general manager of Carroll & Co. for more than 30 years, teamed with Avedon owners Reza Shekarchian and Yasmine Farmanara on a lounge concept called Bespoke at Avedon. The deal merges his buying prowess with that of Shekarchian to merchandise the men’s store.
Carroll & Co. began a store closing sale late last year, shuttering its doors for good after the Carroll family received an offer they couldn’t refuse on the building the retailer occupied. Carroll & Co. had long been a mainstay in Beverly Hills, once frequented by high-profile A-listers such as Frank Sinatra, Cary Grant and Jack Lemmon.
Newmark, still seeing a demand for customization and luxury men’s brands, spotted a hole in the market with Carroll & Co.’s closure.
“It’s still viable. We had a huge custom business, which is also a big part of what I’m doing here, along with carrying inventory similar to what we did there,” said Newmark, who was hired in 1989 by

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Ssense Launches Marine Serre Men’s Line

Ssense has snagged the exclusive for the launch of the Marine Serre’s first men’s designs.
The 22-piece collection includes fleece jackets, dégradé tracksuits, bike shorts, T-shirts and accessories that are rich in Nineties nostalgia.
The collection retails from $ 95 for a whistle-festooned lariat to $ 2,270 for a floral-print blanket coat.
Ssense is a luxury retailer based in Montreal that has a strong following with men and women under the age of 34.
Serre, a Parisian-based designer, has been a winner of the LVMH Prize, and made her mark with crescent-moon print bodysuits and dresses made from upcycled silk scarves for women. Her clothes blend futuristic, athletic and couture references.

She had interned at Maison Margiela and quit her job in the studio of Balenciaga in September 2017 to focus on her own label. This is her first men’s wear capsule.

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Retailers Weigh In on the Pros and Cons of Men’s Fashion Week

Men’s wear retailers had a choice to make this week: stay in New York for the men’s runway shows or jump a flight to Las Vegas for the trade shows.
As reported, both events overlap this season; an unfortunate shift in dates by Project to a week earlier forced merchants and vendors to choose between the two.
NYFW: Men’s will run Feb. 4 to 6 in New York City — the start of the larger 10-day New York Fashion Week — while Project, Liberty Fairs and Agenda will run Feb. 5 to 7 in Las Vegas.
The men’s part of the show calendar has had trouble gaining traction since it was introduced by the Council of Fashion Designers of America four years ago. Most of the marquee designers have either opted for dual-gender shows — Tom Ford, Michael Kors and John Elliott among them — or showed in Europe, such as Ralph Lauren and Thom Browne. Other men’s designers have opted out of showing in New York altogether including Billy Reid, Perry Ellis and Carlos Campos.
With some exceptions — Joseph Abboud, Todd Snyder, Robert Geller and Ovadia & Sons — the men’s-specific days on the calendar are full of little-known designer names, many of

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NYFW: Designers’ Men’s Fall 2019 Inspirations

New York always offers a diverse group of designers, with aesthetics that range from classic men’s wear to streetwear, and even nonbinary. As the last round of the men’s fall runway season gets under way, brands offer a peek into their inspiration this season — everything from technical sport and the California desert rock scene from the Sixties to  uniforms for the modern-day cannabis ambassadors.
 
“Combining robust flannel, washed tweeds and vintage velvets — the contrasting textures, hues and patterns in the Joseph Abboud fall 2019 collection are as unique and diverse as the immigrants who helped found this country.” — Joseph Abboud
“This season, art — an integral strand of the Boss DNA — is our starting point. We take on the role of curator, traveling the world in search of creative ideas, and have stopped in New York. The gallery district in Chelsea has inspired the design, creation and curation of the new fall collection.” — Ingo Wilts, chief brand officer, Boss
“Dyne fall 2019 stays true to its technical sports-inspired roots, elevating the materials through texture and color and inspired by the beautiful outdoors of the Oregon Painted Hills. Tailoring is at its roots as always and fabrics have been sculpted

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Robert Geller Men’s Fall 2019

Robert Geller is taking us on a mountain-climbing expedition this fall.
After a three-season hiatus, the designer returned to New York Fashion Week: Men’s with a collection that took him into new territory. He applied his traditional romantic DNA to a performance-driven lineup spurred on by a new collaboration with Lululemon.

“Lulu pushed me in that direction,” he said. “But it’s also the spirit of the times and knowing the functionality of the garments.”

The use of bright neon greens and fuchsias in sweatshirts, pants and suits kept the athletic spirit at an all-time high. And a ubiquitous moon-pattern print that he used in coats, silky shirts, scarves and leggings was part of his fictitious mountainous climb to the moon.

A take on the slogan “I love you to the moon and back” was added to hooded sweatshirts and served as a reminder that Geller is still a romantic at heart.

While the Lululemon collaboration set the tone, Geller’s main collection concentrated around layered wool garments with some innovative dying techniques as seen in oversize wool coats, blazers and jackets all with nylon 3-D utility pockets.

The latest partnership with Common Projects resulted in a chic, high-tech hiking boot/sneaker that, paired with outdoor-inspired pants with articulated

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New York Men’s Fashion Week: Bruised, but Still in the Ring

After three years, the bold experiment of a stand-alone men’s wear fashion week struggles to survive.
NYT > Style

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Dyne Men’s Fall 2019

Christopher Bevans has always been a bit of a rule-breaker and the backstory surrounding his fall collection for Dyne was no exception.
After visiting the Commonwealth Fashion Exchange exhibit at the Fashion Institute of Technology last fall, he got an idea: Why couldn’t he show his fall line at the school where he had gotten his degree some two decades ago? So, after speaking to the board and the dean, he got the go-ahead to use a street-level space on Seventh Avenue and 27th Street during New York Fashion Week.
Bevans converted the space into an installation that showed his collection of athletically fused sportswear and signature high-tech fabrics juxtaposed against a cluster of old-time electronics — many of them broken and jumbled together into a pile.
The message he was making was one of sustainability, one of the issues he’s most passionate about. “We have to continue to champion and share our knowledge on how to work in a more sustainable way,” he said.
For Dyne, that translates into the use of vetted factories in Taipei and fabrics that can be repurposed. Bevans collaborated with Swarovski to create a sweatshirt in crystals that spelled out “Save Us” in several languages. “I’m trying to bring

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Randa Invests in Stantt Men’s Brand

Randa has signed on as the lead investor in Stantt, a made-to-measure men’s wear brand. Randa was joined by New England Development, CompanyFirst, Sapna Shah of Red Giraffe Advisors, and entrepreneur John DeWees. The amount of the Series A financing was not disclosed but is said to have been a multi-million dollar investment.
The New York-based Stantt was cofounded in 2013 by Matt Hornbuckle and Kirk Keel and uses proprietary DataFit Technology, which is comprised of 99 sizes and an algorithm that requires only three measurements to create a custom fit. The brand offers wovens, knits and performance cloth in a variety of regular and big and tall sizes. All garments are made-to-order and delivered in seven days.
The financing round was led by Randa Digital Labs and will be used by Stantt to “increase marketing partnerships and support to more than 300 retail partners, enhance brand touch-points across all channels, drive expansion into new product categories and enable the hiring of key personnel,” the company said.
Heath Golden, president of Randa Digital Labs, said his company “appreciated the value of Stantt’s business model from the beginning. We are confident that Matt and Kirk will leverage these funds to take the company to the next

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Sundae School Men’s Fall 2019

Dae Lim is designing a smokewear line at an opportune time. Last season, medicinal marijuana wasn’t legal in South Korea, where he’s from — it is now — and the legalization of recreational weed wasn’t imminent in New York, where he currently lives. He likens this time, which he calls the Green Rush, to the Gold Rush, and used that to inform his collection.
Western references were the foundation of the line, but they were filtered through Lim’s viewpoint, which mixes workwear with traditional Korean garb and humorous graphics. That translated to pants updated with pleats, ceremonial knots and ankle wraps, tattoo turtlenecks covered in images of Chinese immigrants during the Gold Rush, and jackets with hanbok details. Outerwear included long down coats, while denim jackets were embellished with flames. The line was accented with tooled leather accessories meant to make a blunt or vape pen easily accessible.
Lim said his concept is resonating with retailers. He continues to be carried by Vfiles and was recently picked up by Barneys in New York and Los Angeles along with Intersect in Shanghai and Forty Five Ten in Dallas.
Lim has created a collection that celebrates weed without dumbing down craftsmanship. The focus is the

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EXCLUSIVE: Heron Preston on Opening Paris Men’s Fashion Week

PARIS — “Streetwear on the runways of Paris has always been that vision that I’ve shared with my friends, the ultimate opportunity to present some new fresh ideas in a city and platform that we have always looked up to,” said Heron Preston, who today at the Palais de Tokyo will present the first runway show of his namesake label, as part of the official calendar of Paris Men’s Fashion Week.
Call him a quick learner. Preston, who was “raised” by the skate culture in San Francisco where he grew up, and who first started making noise in 2012 with his art-project bootleg spins on the Givenchy Rottweiler T-shirt, said that it was only around four years ago, when he started working with Kanye West, that he was introduced to the world of Paris fashion.
A former art director for West, Preston — who’s considered a post-Internet Renaissance man — worked at Nike and was also a part of the Been Trill art and DJ collective with Virgil Abloh, Justin Saunders and Matthew Williams.
“I really put myself in that environment with Virgil, Matthew and Kanye [West]. And going to Paris with those guys, I was always that kid who felt like a bit

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All Hail the Stand-alone Men’s Showcase

PARIS — Whoever said fashion was fickle? At the opening of one of the most highly anticipated Paris men’s weeks in history, could the conscious uncoupling of a cluster of the industry’s most influential brands returning to stand-alone show formats for men’s trigger an about-turn from other players aboard the coed movement? And could the shift indicate that the coed format on many levels is not working out?
Among the switchers adding major clout to the week, which opened Tuesday, Givenchy, Jil Sander and Celine will present the first stand-alone men’s shows under their respective creative directors — Clare Waight Keller, Luke and Lucie Meier and Hedi Slimane — with the latter marking the brand’s first men’s show.
Paris newcomer J.W. Anderson has also returned to a separate showcase for men’s.
“We observe that after testing the formula, several brands [are going] back to stand-alone shows in order in their view to more clearly value each of the two collections,” noted Ralph Toledano, president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.
It’s a move that’s drawn the collective thumbs-up from men’s editors and buyers. But with the coed juggernaut already well in motion, the future of the dedicated men’s fashion

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MISBHV Men’s Fall 2019

The mass of people pressing against the entrance of the venue could only mean one thing: the invitation to the MISBHV show had been leaked. “There are 3,000 people waiting to see you, so give them a show they will remember,” said designer Natalia Maczek during a pep talk given to the models backstage, in what seemed like barely an exaggeration.
In an underground car park in the seediest part of the 18th arrondissement, guests were packed into a show venue defying all security rules (as well as the “no smoking” signs). WWD was told that an interview post-show would prove difficult, as the venue was going to be transformed into a rave party. Models got changed in the parking lot’s toilets. The air was charged with the smell of dope, spray-on deodorant and pre-show nerves.
The collection seemed to meet the crowd’s anticipation. Cheers greeted the casting, a blend of models scouted in the brand’s native Poland – “We wanted to support our country and show these faces to the world,” said Maczek, who designs alongside creative director Thomas Wirski – and international talent, with a focus on blurring gender codes. Richie, a photographer from New York, wore a prairie-style, high-waisted skirt

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Paris Men’s Fashion Week: A Survival Guide

Where: The Marais, still the go-to zone for new shops, eateries and cafés.
Shows in the area: Acne Studios, Facetasm, Alyx, Cmmn Swdn and Lemaire.
What not to miss: Looking for a bite to eat between Facetasm and Acne Studios? Leg it to Raw to Go, a new takeaway spot opened by culinary duo Marie and William Pradeleix that specializes in raw food — think sashimi, beef tartare, cold-pressed juices and cacao bars. For a spot of shopping, new men’s concept-store La Garçonnière carries more than 200 brands, including Danish outerwear label Rains, funky eyewear styles by French start-up Izipizi and the ubiquitous — and sustainable — Veja sneakers, as well as a barber shop. As happy hour comes closer, check out the new bar Cambridge Public House, which was opened on Jan. 14 by Hyacinthe Lescoët, former head barman at the Mary Céleste. “Fancy cocktail places can be a bit intimidating, so we wanted to recreate the vibe of an English pub, with cozy furniture and an open mindset,” said the drinks maestro. Good to know for Dry January: around a quarter of the creative cocktails listed on the menu will be spirit free.
Raw to Go, 56 Rue de Turenne, 75003. Open

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Bergdorf’s Bruce Pask to Get Shop at Men’s Store

Customers are about to get a much closer glimpse into the life and loves of Bergdorf Goodman’s men’s fashion director Bruce Pask.
Next month, the upscale men’s retailer will open a new shop on the third floor of its men’s store called B. The 450-square-foot space will offer a collection of some of Pask’s favorite pieces from brands including Craig Green, Le Mont St. Michel, Clarks Originals, Closed, Common Projects and Want Les Essentiels. The shop will also mark some new additions to the store, including Margaret Howell, Lou Dalton, Bode and Armor Lux.
Pask described the merchandise in B as “handpicked wardrobe-creation pieces but with a point of view.” The pieces are “neutral and easy, but a bit more special.” For example, he said he’s been wearing wide-leg pants for a while and Closed created a double-pleated khaki that fit that bill, while the desert boots he’s worn since he was in college were updated by Clark’s in a suede basket weave.
The merchandise will be sold in a multivendor approach rather than by individual brand, he said.
“It’s my personal take, but I believe it’s a broad enough edit to speak to a wide audience,” he said. “They’re great, easy, well-made, personality-filled

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Christian Dada Men’s Fall 2019

Masanori Morikawa created a strong collection charged with urban sartorial pieces and less of a nod to Eastern influences than in seasons past.
The show notes explained that the line, called Signal Noise, was influenced by a 1994 art happening, entitled “S/N” by Dumb Type, conceived by a Japanese artist collective that — through the piece — questioned discrimination and imagined a time devoid of borders and stereotypes. The performance’s aesthetic and political elements particularly inspired Morikawa for fall.
There was a coherence to this collection full of streamlined silhouettes for men and women, like the cinched black suit and jacket, brown velour trousers and bomber, and multicolored striped sweater over black velour pants.
This lineup was full of varied details, such as splayed cuffs, tape seams and winged motifs, and fabrics like a coated material appearing shiny; wool; leather, and cotton. Colors varied, too, from black and navy to mauve and teal.
What could have been clashing — the look, say, with a white turtleneck, multicolored, collage-like shirt, glossy gray trousers and long, zip-up gloves — coalesced.

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Jet Set Men’s Fall 2019

For Michael Michalsky, becoming creative director of Jet Set was like coming full circle. As a teenager growing up near the German city of Hamburg, he would take the train into town on Saturdays to window shop at the luxury sportswear brand’s store.
Eventually, he managed to buy one of its jackets on sale. That orange bomber jacket from 1984 has been reissued as part of Michalsky’s first collection for the St. Moritz-based label, which celebrates its 50th anniversary with a series of drops celebrating archival designs from its Eighties heyday.
“Jet Set during that time was in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Italy the non plus ultra luxury sportswear brand, basically. If I look back on it now, they created a segment that now every luxury brand really wants to get into,” he said.
“Ever since then I had a love affair with the brand, because I have always been very fascinated and very smitten by sportswear,” he added.
Jet Set couldn’t have dreamed of a better advocate for its revival. With a passionate eye for detail, Michalsky pointed out the technical details – many borrowed from U.S. military garb – on ripstop bomber jackets, heavyweight cotton T-shirts and performance ski suits.
Each drop will be

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Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Fall 2019

Boris Bidjan Saberi relayed Mongolian and Persian influences for fall, adding flavor to his precise, military-inspired designs. The silk road was awash with primary materials like copper and silver, he noted backstage following the show, and he decided to train his sights on the oxidation process.
Strips of copper decorated the faces of the models — “soldier makeup” in the designer’s words, with patches of aquamarine blue added to complete the closing number: a tailored jacket and shorts ensemble, in this bright blue, with a furry yak vest, in a silvery hue, strapped on top. High-top boots, also dyed in the prerequisite hue, completed the look, while sturdy straps reined in the silhouette, adding to the utilitarian feel. “My technical roots come from military garments — this is a driving force of the collection,” he said. The military bent was certainly back in full force this season.
The dyeing process — color! — was another underlying theme, as the lineup gradually shifted from grays and silvers to include pale blues before leading to an emphatic aquamarine.
The carefully considered choice of materials — yak wasn’t the only leather; there was also horse and kangaroo — and the accessories — small purses attached to

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Dries Van Noten Men’s Fall 2019

Add Dries Van Noten to the ranks of designers dialing back the sportswear this season. The show notes for his fall collection promised “a view on tailoring for the next generation” and “a step back from nonchalance and sportswear.”
It opened with a sequence of sartorial staples: a white shirt and tie, a pin-striped suit and a charcoal wool coat. Van Noten soon introduced a note of visual disruption, in the shape of tie-dye patterns that bloomed across sweaters, jeans and suits.
They were most striking in psychedelic bursts on silky reversible raincoats. Seemingly random, the patterns were in fact engineered to be “hyper optic and exactingly symmetric.” Together with a graphic carpet motif, they added a dash of Sixties bohemia to a display otherwise focused on subtle ways for a man to draw attention.
Those included a striking new suit shape, which paired a short jacket, with crisp shoulders and a high and narrow waist, with wide pleated pants. Also intriguing: the asymmetric quilted jackets that wrapped around the body like down comforters, and wool blankets that were wrapped around the waist like skirts.
The takeaway message: Being smart doesn’t have to be uncomfortable. Underlying it all was a suggestion that men need

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Saks Gets Retail Exclusive of Kim Jones’ Dior Men’s Collection

Saks Fifth Avenue has managed to snag the early launch of the much-coveted debut collection of Kim Jones for Dior Men.
Although the line will be offered at other stores in early February — including in an installation with some exclusive pieces at Nordstrom Men in New York and Seattle — Saks has secured the early retail exclusive for the line. The collection has already launched at Dior’s stores, including the eight in the U.S. that carry men’s wear.
Saks will be carrying the full collection of ready-to-wear, sneakers and accessories embellished with the brand’s signature bee logo that has been reimagined by street artist Kaws.
The summer collection will be available at Saks’ New York, Beverly Hills, Chicago, San Francisco, Atlanta, Houston and Toronto stores on Jan. 16, two weeks ahead of other retailers. It will not be available online at Saks but is being sold on the Dior e-commerce site.
Product pricing will range from $ 490 for a Kaws bee T-shirt to $ 5,900 for a crystal Kaws bee denim jacket.
Saks will devote the center six windows at its Fifth Avenue flagship to the launch from Jan. 16 to 30. They will feature Kaws’ designs, including the bee motif as well as his

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Off-White Men’s Fall 2019

As he gears up for the first museum exhibition of his work, Virgil Abloh has been delving into his childhood obsessions. His fall men’s show was titled “Public Television,” an exploration of his favorite shows growing up, from American children’s TV series “Mister Rogers’ Neighborhood” to sports broadcasts.
But this was no warm, fuzzy trip down memory lane. Abloh, a moving target if ever there was one, doesn’t do nostalgia — even as he prepares for the show of his career highlights so far at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Chicago, opening in June.
“I don’t look back. I’ve never been one to stop and think. I’m always going forward. I think that’s why getting this exhibit together had me for the first time even caring to look at old things. I’m less into things, but more into why we as humans in art or fashion, or outside of that, respond to things and what makes our taste,” he said.
Growing up in Rockford, Ill., his aesthetic was shaped by watching everything from basketball legend Michael Jordan to businesspeople — hence the wide range of references spilling onto the runway. Oversize suit jackets were paired with voluminous jeans, as if a Nineties

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Danilo Paura Men’s Fall 2019

Danilo Paura chose a small, newly refurbished theater in central Milan — a gem of a place called Teatro Gerolamo — to show off his colorful collection of streetwear and sporty styles, all of which are made in Italy. Looks included puffers, zebra-print trousers and scarves, knits in shades of acid green or bright blue — and even a pinstripe suit. On the footwear front, there were hiking boots and cowboy styles. Paura said that, more than anything else, he was proud of his fabrics, which included wool, cashmere, brushed mohair and cotton, and of their provenance and comfort.

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Italy’s Men’s Sales, Exports Grow in 2018, Brands Support MFW

MILAN — Trade policies, Brexit uncertainties, social protests in France and European political elections are factors that could influence the economy this year, but Brunello Cucinelli is unwavering: “Of one thing I am sure: it’s not true that men don’t want to buy, I don’t believe this at all.” With “at least three different posts” on social media per day, men “must change depending on the occasion. We take more care of our looks because we will be posted. It’s a new way of life,” he argued.
Figures released by Centro Studi of fashion industry association Confindustria Moda support this positive take — even 2019 is seen as “stable” compared with 2018 and showing “limited dynamism,” based on the spring 2019 orders. That said, the Italian men’s wear industry is expected to report 2018 sales of 9.44 billion euros, up 1.5 percent compared with 2017.
Men’s wear accounts for 17.5 percent of Italy’s textile and fashion revenues and 27.9 percent of all apparel. The first half of 2018 was particularly brisk, with exports up 5.5 percent, but business slowed starting last summer. Consumer spending in Italy was defined by the association as “one of the worst [since] 2013.” However, 2018 year-end figures

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Dsquared2 Men’s Fall 2019

In the Instagram era, experiences are becoming key to making a difference in the real, physical environment. While images and videos available on smartphones can help a brand spread its message, a proper event can guarantee guests will go back to their homes with special memories and emotions. This is what Dean and Dan Caten must have thought when they conceived the format of their fall runway show, with guests standing by the catwalk as at a music concert and bars serving drinks. And, indeed, the music was great — a mix of pop, dance and Madonna’s iconic songs. The thing is, people weren’t there for the soundtrack or the drinks. They were supposed to be there to see the clothes. Even if Dsquared2’s intentions were noble — offering a fun, entertaining and unconventional experience during fashion week — the result missed the mark, with several editors leaving before the end of the show because they couldn’t see a thing.
Those who managed to sneak in through the crowd witnessed a pop, rock ‘n’ roll, grungy, disco extravaganza. After presenting a pre-fall collection focused on chic, wearable pieces, the Caten brothers used their fall coed runway to send out a clear

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