New York Fashion Week: Men’s Hanging on by a Thread

New York Fashion Week: Men’s is on life support.
Less than three weeks until the start of the men’s spring runway season, the Council of Fashion Designers of America has finally released its calendar — and it’s not pretty.
There are fewer than 20 men’s designers showing and half are with Agentry PR’s New York Men’s Day. Absent from the calendar are some designers who have been active supporters of the men’s shows since they were launched four years ago, including Todd Snyder, Robert Geller, Ovadia New York, Carlos Campos and Bode.
Instead, the calendar kicks off on June 3 with Agentry’s presentations of small and emerging designers only. The following day, N.Hoolywood will show at 6 p.m., followed by Frere at 7 p.m. The final day on June 5 will see presentations from Hecho, Freemans Sporting Club, Untitled Collective, Dyne and Linder, as well as shows from Private Policy, NIHL and Grungy Gentleman.
The reasons for the lack of participation are several. First, this marks the first time the men’s shows have moved from July to June to coincide with women’s resort. That timing is early for a lot of brands since the men’s market in New York is generally in mid- to

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Giorgio Armani to Hold Signature Men’s Show in June at Storied Via Borgonuovo HQ

HOME SWEET HOME: For the first time in 18 years, Giorgio Armani will show his namesake men’s collection for spring 2020 at his storied headquarters at 11 Via Borgonuovo.
The show is scheduled on June 17 at 5 p.m., closing Milan Men’s Fashion Week, which kicks off on June 14.
Armani took control in 1996 of the stately 17th-century building, Palazzo Orsini, named after the 12th-century family, but in 2001 the designer unveiled offices and his Teatro, designed by Japanese architect Tadao Ando on Milan’s Via Bergognone — in a former Nestlé industrial area, and effectively helping to revamp that part of the city.
The Emporio Armani show will be held at the Teatro on June 15 at 11 a.m.
The designer has most recently been experimenting with different formats and venues. Last September, he staged a coed Emporio Armani show at Milan’s Linate Airport — at the Hangar where the imposing Emporio Armani billboard has been placed since 1996. That was the first time a fashion show was held at that site and it was followed by a Robbie Williams concert.
In February, for the first time, Armani held a coed show for his signature line at Silos, the exhibition space he opened in 2015, opposite the

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Sies Marjan Expected to Show Men’s in Paris

Count Sies Marjan as the latest brand to make the jump from New York to Paris.
Sources said the buzzy New York-based brand will hold its first men’s-only show in June during Paris Fashion Week. The company declined to comment but an announcement is expected next week.

The label, designed by Sander Lak, a former head of design for Dries Van Noten, has historically shown men’s looks during his women’s show in New York, but a more-intense focus on its men’s collection has prompted the company to opt for the Paris runway where many of the higher-profile brands show.

Sies Marjan launched as a luxury women’s label in 2016 in New York. Lak, a Dutch native, debuted his first full men’s line for fall 2018.
Before spending five years at Dries Van Noten, Lak, a graduate of Central Saint Martins, worked at Balmain in Paris and Phillip Lim in New York. His Sies Marjan brand is known for its use of color, proportion and innovative materials.

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Agentry to Open New York Fashion Week: Men’s Again

Agentry PR is pivoting.
The organizer of New York Men’s Day, a showcase for emerging designers, will once again open the men’s spring calendar, working in tandem with the Council of Fashion Designers of America.
The CFDA shifted the men’s dates to June 3 to 5 this season to coincide with the women’s resort calendar. This means the New York-based men’s shows will take place ahead of the men’s shows in London, Florence, Milan and Paris.
Agentry had considered sticking with the former July dates to give the designers more time to prepare their collections and align with the New York men’s trade shows, but opted to stick with CFDA instead.
But there are other changes: New York Men’s Day will now be held at Daylight Studios & Location 05, next to the newly opened Hudson Yards complex on the West Side of Manhattan. For the past few seasons, the shows had been held at Dune Studios in the financial district.
New York Men’s Day will feature presentations from nine designers, down from 12 in prior iterations. Five will be held over a two-hour period in the morning and four in the afternoon.
But the event will also feature an All Stars Showcase where previous Men’s

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Dior to Open Men’s Pop-ups Featuring Soroyama Robot

Dior Men is getting a lot of mileage out of its Hajime Sorayama sculpture.
Last November, the brand’s artistic director Kim Jones commissioned a 39-foot-tall sculpture of a robot woman by Japanese contemporary artist Sorayama to be the centerpiece for his pre-fall 2019 men’s show in Tokyo. The artist also designed a Dior logo for the season and his futuristic imagery became part of the prints used in the collection.
Now, smaller versions of the sculpture are making their way to retailers in North America, where they will be featured in a series of pop-ups this spring.
The first debuted at The Park at CityCenterDC in Washington, D.C., on Tuesday. The 16.4-foot version will remain on site through May 7.
On May 1, Holt Renfrew’s Yorkdale store in Toronto will install a 9.2-foot version that will remain there through May 31. On the other coast, South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif., will take delivery of the robot that had been at CityCenter and install it in its Jewel Court on May 14. It will remain there through May 28.
Designed like pods, the interconnected spaces are modular and can be adapted to a number of different retail locations. Inside the metal pods are mirrors

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Penney’s Changes Chief Men’s Merchant

The changes are continuing at J.C. Penney.
James Starke, the company’s longtime head of men’s wear, has exited the retailer and has been replaced by Jeff Useforge.
Useforge, whose title is senior vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s and children’s, will oversee the company’s private and national brands. He was formerly vice president and divisional merchandise manager of men’s, big and tall, activewear and team apparel for Penney’s. Before that, he was a senior buyer of big and tall and The Foundry, a big and tall concept that it had once hoped to roll out as a chain.
Useforge has more than 30 years of retail experience and began his career with Mercantile Department Stores. He also spent five years with Saks Inc. in the Proffitt’s and McRae’s division, where he was gmm of men’s and children’s. He has also worked for Bon-Ton and Kohl’s.
Starke had spent 13 years at Penney’s, mainly in the men’s department. His most recent role was senior vice president and senior gmm of men’s, children’s, jewelry and home, according to his LinkedIn profile. He joined Penney’s in 2005 after spending eight years at Foley’s in Houston, also primarily in the men’s area.
He could not be reached

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Koral Delves Into Men’s With Equinox 

LOS ANGELES — Koral, the activewear brand backed by Seven For All Mankind cofounder Peter Koral, will enter the men’s space exclusively with Equinox before a broader rollout at retail.
The men’s line launches with more than 20 stockkeeping units, priced from $ 75 to $ 300 and utilizing many of the same performance fabrics seen in the women’s line, such as lightweight scuba. The men’s collection takes on a streetwear-inspired aesthetic and a color scheme of navy and taupe.
The official launch is April 30 in 19 Equinox stores for a six-month exclusive, in addition to Koral’s online shop. The collection will broaden for fall with a larger stockkeeping unit count distributed to more retailers.
“I would love if men’s could be just as big as the women’s business one day,” chief marketing officer and cofounder Marcelo Kugel said. “I think we can get a stronghold in the market and that’s why Equinox wanted to be our main partner on this because they see the opportunity for growth and then we’ve also been approached by Peloton, Barry’s Boot Camp and Net-a-porter with the launch of fall.”
Koral helped fund the business in the beginning, fueling about $ 8.5 million worth of working capital. The business has now been

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SportChek – Up to 50% Off Men’s Shoes & Clothing at SportChek! No code required. Terms apply. Valid 4/11/19 – 4/25/19. Shop now!

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Men’s Brands Jump Into Sustainability Efforts

Like many things in men’s wear, it often takes a bit longer for a trend to take hold than it does in women’s wear. Sustainability has been no exception. But now, most men’s brands and retailers are all in.
While some men’s designers, such as Christopher Raeburn, were early adopters, others are just now jumping on board. According to Cara Smyth, vice president of Glasgow Caledonian New York College and founder of the Fair Fashion Center sustainability program, those in the outdoor industry were among the first to embrace the movement due to their ties to nature. But the movement has since spread to a variety of men’s wear brands.
“Many men’s brands are interested in sustainability as it provides operating efficiencies that reduce impacts and reflect the values of the brand to both consumers and even investors where applicable,” she said.
So whether it’s PVH’s goal to generate zero waste, or Perry Ellis’ new solar panel installation project at its distribution center in Seneca, S.C., companies big and small have gotten on board.
Here is a closer look at some of the brands leading the way in men’s wear.
Christopher Raeburn
Just call him the King of Upcycling. The U.K.-based designer has been a champion

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Etro Men’s Line to Make Runway Comeback in June

RUNWAY RETURN: Etro is bringing its men’s line back on the catwalk.
Following a three-season runway hiatus, during which Etro men’s creative director Kean Etro organized engaging presentations, the brand will unveil its spring 2020 collection with a show on June 16.
The last men’s collection that Etro showed on the catwalk was the spring 2018 lineup, which was presented with a coed runway show at the Palazzo del Ghiaccio venue in Milan.
The location of the upcoming men’s show is still to be disclosed. After seasons of shows held at Palazzo del Ghiaccio, last February Etro showed its women’s fall 2019 collection at Milan’s Giuseppe Verdi music conservatory.
Etro, which counts more than 200 stores, is investing in communication and marketing, strengthening the experience in stores and increasing digital content. Europe is still Etro’s biggest market, representing 30 percent of sales. It is followed by Asia and the U.S., accounting for 30 and 20 percent of the brand’s total business, respectively.

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WWD Men’s Summit: Hilary Coles of Hims

Hims is making waves in the wellness industry by tapping into a market that has otherwise been largely neglected: men.
“We launched Hims to address and normalize conversations that have been too often stigmatized and educate men that it’s OK to take care of themselves and actually, it’s kind of weird not to,” said Hilary Coles, Hims’ brand leader. “We help men take care of themselves through a telemedicine platform. What that means is that we offer men access to over-the-counter and prescription medicine via an easy-to-use online consultation that pairs them with doctors licensed in their states and from a network of pharmacies across the country.”
Launched 18 months ago, Hims now has “hundreds of thousands” of men using its platform, said Coles, which gives them access to FDA-approved, medical-grade products, educational tools and medical expertise.
“In health care, there’s a debilitating stigma attached to really important issues for men. It’s largely caused by a vacuum and a lack of conversation because men are unfortunately afraid to approach these hard conversations and they’re afraid to approach them with doctors, with their closest friends and even with their partners,” Coles said.
To combat this stigma, Coles and her team place extra emphasis on packaging

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Chief Merchant Scott Norris Exits Men’s Wearhouse

The changes have begun at Tailored Brands.
The California-based men’s wear retailer has parted ways with Scott Norris, the long-time chief merchant for its flagship Men’s Wearhouse division, WWD has learned.
Norris, who had been with the company since the mid-1990s, was named brand president of Men’s Wearhouse and Moores in 2014. He started his career as a buyer for Macy’s in 1991 and joined The Men’s Wearhouse as executive vice president and general merchandise manager in 1996, according to his LinkedIn profile.
“After 22 incredible years and countless contributions to The Men’s Wearhouse, Scott Norris has decided to leave the company to try something new,” a company spokesperson confirmed. “We wish him every success in his next chapter.”
Norris could not be reached for comment.
Last fall, Tailored Brands brought Carrie Ask on board as president of the Men’s Wearhouse and Moores brands. Norris, who had held that position since 2014, was named chief merchant.
At the end of March, the company elevated Dinesh Lathi, the former executive chairman, to chief executive officer, succeeding Doug Ewert, who had retired from the top post at the end of September 2018.
Lathi has been highly critical of the company’s past strategies, saying the retailer has underinvested in its

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J. Crew Closes Liquor Store Men’s Shop

It’s the end of an era for J. Crew.
When the retailer opened its Liquor Store stand-alone men’s concept a decade ago, it set a new standard for men’s wear specialty retailing and was one of the first experiential retail stores with its heritage-heavy clubby interior and third-party brands, including Red Wing shoes and Thomas Mason shirts.
It also put helped Todd Snyder, who was J. Crew’s head of men’s wear at the time, on the map. He worked with Andy Spade and then-chief executive officer Mickey Drexler to create the must-visit men’s emporium in TriBeCa. It also served to introduce the Ludlow suit model, which remains among the company’s best-selling models today.
But now a decade after opening its doors, the Liquor Store is no more. J. Crew quietly shuttered the shop at the end of March. The company said it first decided to close the store last year, adding: “Each year we review those leases that are coming to their end, and this year like last year, we made the strategic decision to close those stores where it made financial sense to do so.”
J. Crew opened a separate men’s store in Dumbo in Brooklyn last August and all told has 16

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Grailed Founder on Future of the Men’s Fashion ‘Movement’

Men’s fashion has changed a lot in the past decade, and Arun Gupta sees it changing still.
Led by a young male consumer obsessed with streetwear, a new interest in fashion has led the popular success of sites like Grailed, which Gupta founded in 2013 as a marketplace and community platform for “super enthusiasts,” like himself. But already the culture is moving beyond streetwear.
“The men’s clothing movement, it being acceptable for men to care more about the clothes they wear, has been building for the past 10 years,” Gupta said. “But streetwear is the last phase of it.”
Already on Grailed, he said the inventory is about evenly split between streetwear and fashion, possibly a sign that the realm is cooling off a bit. And then there’s the split between the two types of fashion consumers Gupta is seeing.
“One is the consumer who buys to wear it, then there’s the consumer buying to flip it,” Gupta said. “It’s very prevalent in sneakers and now very prevalent in streetwear and it’s pretty unique to the ecosystem.”
He compared the level of resale with a brand like Celine, where new items have been slow to appear on Grailed and a brand like Supreme, which shows

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MEN’S FORUM: The Whitaker Group’s James Whitner Relies on Instinct and Close Consumer Connections to Stay Ahead

For The Whitaker Group’s founder James Whitner, being the consumer is essential to knowing the consumer.
With an assortment of stores via his company’s four retail entities — Social Status, A.P.B., Prosper and A Ma Maniére — Whitner emphasized the importance of being submerged with the people you are trying to connect with. He asked, “Are you focused on the consumer? Do you know who the consumer is and why? Most people don’t. You’re casting a wide net in men’s wear…I’m the guy. I’m the guy who’s buying the stuff and wearing the stuff.”
Aside from anticipating what his shoppers want, Whitner spoke of how he tries to design spaces that they will emotionally respond to. “I’m always trying to re-create the places and spaces I’ve been in. I feel like I have a romantic affair with the consumer in the process. Can someone cue the music? [Romantic tunes follow.] When I walk into a store, this is how I feel. I’m being romanced by the romance,” he said.
Referring to outdated business practices that can’t keep up with quick fire social media and fashion’s rapid speed of change, Whitner said, “You’ve got to set your businesses up to move like we move.

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Men’s Wear Movers

These 12 designers, brands, retailers and influencers are changing the face of the men’s wear industry.
 
1. Hedi Slimane
 
As the original androgynous designer who set in motion the skinny tailoring movement in his days at Dior Homme, it’s no surprise that Hedi Slimane’s appointment as artistic, creative and image director at Celine was one of the most newsworthy debuts of last year, marking the label’s first steps into the men’s arena.
“I am enchanted; what a great choice,” said the late Karl Lagerfeld, one of Slimane’s most enthusiastic fans, at the time of Slimane’s appointment at Celine in January 2018.
Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, has called Slimane “one of the most talented designers of our time.”
The Frenchman has a track record of reinterpreting cool and attracting youth, tapping into the energy of the music and art scenes and positing his designs in a broader cultural context.
The nomination — which also includes heading Celine’s women’s fashion as well as leather goods, accessories and fragrances — was part of an ambition to at least double the brand’s sales within five years, making it one of LVMH’s top labels after Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior.
With his debut

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Mytheresa Expands Into Men’s Wear, Taps Chris Kyvetos

LONDON — Munich-based retailer Mytheresa is adding men’s wear to its offer and bringing Sneakerboy founder Chris Kyvetos to be its new buying director of men’s wear.
Kyvetos, a serial entrepreneur who founded the Australian chain of concept showrooms selling high-end and mass market sneakers via iPad, will be tasked with building a new dedicated men’s wear team and developing the retailer’s market strategy for the category.
Kyvetos is also the buyer and franchise partner of Balenciaga in Australia and previously served as a consultant at Stylebop, another Munich-based e-commerce site. In addition to Sneakerboy, which Kyvetos has opened to resellers as of late and developed as a space where “kids sell shoes to each other,” he has also been planning the launch of his own sneaker line, Athletic Footwear, as well as the opening of a new China atelier that will champion ethical and transparent footwear manufacturing.
For Mytheresa, hiring Kyvetos and moving into men’s wear was the next step, following on from the strong growth of the company’s women’s wear business and expansion into kids’ wear last year. “Men’s wear will be a natural expansion for Mytheresa and represents a significant business opportunity going forward. We see a strong momentum for men’s

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Noma T.D. RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Noma T.D.
Main message: Masako Noguchi and Takuma Sasaki have been designing their brand for more than a decade, but their latest collection was the first one they presented at Tokyo Fashion Week. First they showed a short film directed by Rinko Kawauchi with music by Hiroshi Fujiwara. Titled “Harmony,” it showed simple, everyday scenes at a family country house and the surrounding wilderness as winter changes to spring.
Next, a black curtain opened to reveal eight models in relaxed, outdoorsy Noma T.D. looks. A pajama-like set of flannel pants and a shirt in a big, bold check pattern was paired with a black fishing vest for men, while a gray, navy and dark green floral print satin dress peeked out from under a plush wool coat for women. There was also a blue tie-dyed sweatsuit, a shirt embroidered with large flowers, and a quilted black coat with striped satin sleeves in black and deep blue.
The result: The offering, while small, showed a balance between street-ready and outdoorsy pieces, making it well suited for the modern urbanite.

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The Women of Men’s Wear

It’s not just an old boys club in men’s wear. There are a few women who have spent nearly their entire careers designing, merchandising, presenting or selling to the guys. Here, a look at 10 ladies who have made their mark in the men’s industry and continue to stand out from the crowd.
Mary Beth Blake, president, Jos. A. Bank

Mary Beth Blake 
Courtesy Photo

Work history:
Blake joined Tailored Brands Inc. in 2008 as the chief merchandising officer of K&G, then served as executive vice president for Tailored Brands. She was charged with overseeing the Jos. A. Bank division in 2016. Blake started her career in merchandising with May Department Stores Co. and also spent several years with Macy’s including a stint as general merchandise manager of men’s wear for the Midwest division.
What do you find appealing about the men’s industry?
Men’s wear is undergoing transformation as men are becoming more style- and fit-aware. This sea change as well as casualization of his work wardrobe make it an exciting time to be in the men’s industry.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of being a woman in men’s wear?
One advantage is that women bring an outside perspective to the men’s clothing business. Men’s clothing is evolving, and we

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Salvatore Ferragamo to Stage Men’s Show at Pitti Uomo

MILAN — Salvatore Ferragamo will unveil its spring 2020 men’s wear collection in the brand’s native city, Florence.
The luxury fashion house will stage a runway show on June 11 during international men’s trade show Pitti Uomo.
Following three seasons of coed shows hosted during the women’s editions of Milan Fashion Week, Salvatore Ferragamo will hold the “Florence Calling” event dedicated to its men’s wear collection, designed by creative director Paul Andrew with the support of Guillaume Meilland, head of men’s wear. Andrew has recently put on hold his namesake footwear line to focus exclusively on the design of Salvatore Ferragamo men’s and women collections.
“Florence has always been a creative and inspirational platform for Salvatore Ferragamo and for our founder. Pitti Uomo is therefore the natural location for expressing the contemporary vision that represents us today: strong cultural continuity between different generations, with a constant eye to the future,” Andrew said.
“It is an opportunity for emphasizing our DNA, that added value that makes us distinctly unique,” he added.
Salvatore Ferragamo chairman Ferruccio Ferragamo put the focus on the special link between the company and its native city.
“Florence is our heart, a part of our history,” Ferragamo said. “At a moment of great consolidation

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Ranking the ultimate lineups in NCAA men’s hockey history

With the 2019 tournament near, we look at the legacy of college hockey’s top programs and rank the ultimate lineups, based on the players’ success at the NHL level.
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Cinoh RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Cinoh
Main message: Takayuki Chino has been heading his own brands for over a decade, but as one of the winners of the 2019 Tokyo Fashion Award, he staged a runway show for the first time this season. With it, he showed his audience just why Cinoh has reached levels of popularity that many Tokyo brands can only hope for, being carried by top retailers across Japan.
The designer showed a relaxed, slightly disheveled sophistication. A leopard print, plush fleece pantsuit and long, fringed straight skirts for women shared the runway with men’s suits that were reimagined with pullovers in the place of button-front jackets. Long satin dresses, pleather overalls, fuzzy knits and easy fit trousers were given a subtle injection of Nineties grunge when paired with oversize plaid jackets and shirts. The theme was also hinted at in the show’s soundtrack, which included an instrumental backing track of Nirvana’s 1991 hit “Smells Like Teen Spirit.”
The result: With equal parts elegance and comfort, it was a collection that will surely resonate with Tokyo’s fashion-forward youth, without alienating older consumers.

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Nobuyuki Matsui Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Nobuyuki Matsui
Main message: The first clue that Nobuyuki Matsui’s first Tokyo Fashion Week outing was going to be something unusual was the invitation: a small cardboard box holding a single air pillow, on which details of the show were printed. When audience members arrived, they were asked to step over the back of long benches in order to reach their seats. The long, narrow runway was strewn with air packaging, some filled with goose down, which popped under the models’ feet, adding a strange kind of percussion to the soundtrack.
Some of the clothes also incorporated the pillow-like pouches, which were tied with strings to coats or stuffed inside a tan leather vest that was cut to look like another form of packaging material. But the concept didn’t run through the entire collection, and some looks of simple pants and shirts felt bland and unimaginative. More interesting was Matsui’s modern take on tailoring, which included pullover vests and suits with exposed stitching, contrast fabrics, and trousers that were either cropped or cinched with belts at the ankle.
The result: The collection showed ingenuity and a fresh take on some men’s wear staples, but it was inconsistent and would have benefited from

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NCAA men’s hockey tournament: Tiering all 16 teams, Frozen Four picks

The field is set for the 2019 college hockey tournament. Here’s how each team stacks up, plus our predictions for who will win it all.
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Bloomingdale’s Introducing Dylan Gray Men’s Brand for Spring

Bloomingdale’s is getting back into the men’s private brand business.
A decade after the retailer retired its in-house collections brands, Joseph & Lyman and Metropolitan View, in favor of a classifications strategy, it is launching a bridge collection for spring under the name Dylan Gray.
The line is described as “a modern, sophisticated update on classic men’s sportswear that fuses the elegance of European luxury with the ease of American sportswear.”
The 38-piece collection of soft tailored clothing, transitional outerwear, knits and trousers is manufactured predominantly in Europe. It is designed to be a hybrid of tailored and sportswear.
“We felt there was a white space in the European transitional classic zone in our stores,” said Dan Leppo, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s and home for Bloomingdale’s. “We think there’s an opportunity with all that’s happening in direct-to-consumer today to offer great value and great fashion that moves beyond commodity.”
Leppo said Dylan Gray is “made with the modern man in mind, offering solutions for work or play for today’s smart casual lifestyle, without sacrificing style. It’s about fusing classic sportswear with Old World sophistication at a compelling price point.”
Prices will range from $ 98 to $ 698 and will include marled bird’s-eye polos,

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Postelegant RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Postelegant
Main message: One of the six winners of the 2019 Tokyo Fashion Award, Yuya Nakata’s fledgling brand (established only two years ago) aims to make “timeless modern wear with the best materials and details.” For the brand’s first collection shown on the runway, it did just that. The silhouettes were classic and refined, including different cuts of long coats, tailored trousers and calf-length dresses. And while they were beautifully cut to move with the body, it was the fabrics that set them apart from simple basics. Wool blends in sky blue and red, ribbed knits in the perfect shade of medium gray, a fine, bone-colored twill, and a trio of cloths all in dusty pink all begged a second look.
The result: A newcomer on the Tokyo fashion scene, Nakata proved himself as one to watch with a collection that went beyond elegant to something new and undeniably modern.

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Mistergentleman Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Mistergentleman
Main message: Always one of the bright spots during Tokyo Fashion Week, Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii’s men’s brand mixed easy tailoring with streetwear, outdoor and women’s wear influences for fall. Models walked the grass-like carpeted runway in retro, relaxed snakeskin print suits paired with satin double-breasted shirts and neckerchiefs, or velvet pants with roomy overcoats. The more casual looks included dad jeans, hooded sweatshirts and duck canvas jackets, all in neutral shades of gray, brown, khaki and black, interspersed with pops of purple, green and orange.
Osumi and Yoshii played with proportions, shrinking trenches and puffer jackets into crop tops and styling them over wool coats and loose sweaters. Moto, letterman and toggle jackets were chopped up into bib-like pieces and layered over outerwear, while a series of coats and jackets were cut from two contrasting fabrics: olive corduroy and gray wool flannel, or plush fleece with the same snake print from earlier pieces. Subtle feminine touches came in the form of silk scarves worn as belts over coats, and a handful of equestrian print jackets and shifts. The brand also debuted its latest collaboration products, including quilted bags made with Outdoor Products and a black satin bomber designed

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The Reracs RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: The Reracs
Main message: With her inaugural show during Tokyo Fashion Week, Naomi Kurahashi displayed just how to present classic pieces on a runway without boring the audience: make sure to have plenty of variety, use beautiful textiles, keep the pace quick, and employ inventive styling choices. The brand lived up to its profile, which says that it’s “backed by quality and practicality,” but proved that it has so much more to offer.
The collection was made up of variations on a pretty basic theme: straight-legged or relaxed, jogger-style trousers paired with V-neck sweaters or just about any kind of outerwear imaginable, all turned out in neutral tones of gray, black, navy, white and beige. But the superior construction and luxurious textiles elevated the collection beyond simple classics, with suiting material showing a drape resembling that of matte jersey, and a black pleather poncho turning more heads than it would have if it had been made from animal skin. The fabrics were so beautiful on their own that there was no need for flashy prints, but occasional flashes of Fair Isle, argyle or checked patterns kept things interesting.
The result: Kurahashi has been designing The Reracs for nearly a decade, but proved

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Beverly Hills Men’s Suiting Veteran Jumps to Avedon

Stuart Newmark, the longtime general manager of the now-shuttered men’s retailer Carroll & Co., has created a new customization concept within existing retailer Avedon in Beverly Hills with the help of senior buyer and partner in the business Nancy Herrera.
Newmark, who served as general manager of Carroll & Co. for more than 30 years, teamed with Avedon owners Reza Shekarchian and Yasmine Farmanara on a lounge concept called Bespoke at Avedon. The deal merges his buying prowess with that of Shekarchian to merchandise the men’s store.
Carroll & Co. began a store closing sale late last year, shuttering its doors for good after the Carroll family received an offer they couldn’t refuse on the building the retailer occupied. Carroll & Co. had long been a mainstay in Beverly Hills, once frequented by high-profile A-listers such as Frank Sinatra, Cary Grant and Jack Lemmon.
Newmark, still seeing a demand for customization and luxury men’s brands, spotted a hole in the market with Carroll & Co.’s closure.
“It’s still viable. We had a huge custom business, which is also a big part of what I’m doing here, along with carrying inventory similar to what we did there,” said Newmark, who was hired in 1989 by

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Ssense Launches Marine Serre Men’s Line

Ssense has snagged the exclusive for the launch of the Marine Serre’s first men’s designs.
The 22-piece collection includes fleece jackets, dégradé tracksuits, bike shorts, T-shirts and accessories that are rich in Nineties nostalgia.
The collection retails from $ 95 for a whistle-festooned lariat to $ 2,270 for a floral-print blanket coat.
Ssense is a luxury retailer based in Montreal that has a strong following with men and women under the age of 34.
Serre, a Parisian-based designer, has been a winner of the LVMH Prize, and made her mark with crescent-moon print bodysuits and dresses made from upcycled silk scarves for women. Her clothes blend futuristic, athletic and couture references.

She had interned at Maison Margiela and quit her job in the studio of Balenciaga in September 2017 to focus on her own label. This is her first men’s wear capsule.

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Retailers Weigh In on the Pros and Cons of Men’s Fashion Week

Men’s wear retailers had a choice to make this week: stay in New York for the men’s runway shows or jump a flight to Las Vegas for the trade shows.
As reported, both events overlap this season; an unfortunate shift in dates by Project to a week earlier forced merchants and vendors to choose between the two.
NYFW: Men’s will run Feb. 4 to 6 in New York City — the start of the larger 10-day New York Fashion Week — while Project, Liberty Fairs and Agenda will run Feb. 5 to 7 in Las Vegas.
The men’s part of the show calendar has had trouble gaining traction since it was introduced by the Council of Fashion Designers of America four years ago. Most of the marquee designers have either opted for dual-gender shows — Tom Ford, Michael Kors and John Elliott among them — or showed in Europe, such as Ralph Lauren and Thom Browne. Other men’s designers have opted out of showing in New York altogether including Billy Reid, Perry Ellis and Carlos Campos.
With some exceptions — Joseph Abboud, Todd Snyder, Robert Geller and Ovadia & Sons — the men’s-specific days on the calendar are full of little-known designer names, many of

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NYFW: Designers’ Men’s Fall 2019 Inspirations

New York always offers a diverse group of designers, with aesthetics that range from classic men’s wear to streetwear, and even nonbinary. As the last round of the men’s fall runway season gets under way, brands offer a peek into their inspiration this season — everything from technical sport and the California desert rock scene from the Sixties to  uniforms for the modern-day cannabis ambassadors.
 
“Combining robust flannel, washed tweeds and vintage velvets — the contrasting textures, hues and patterns in the Joseph Abboud fall 2019 collection are as unique and diverse as the immigrants who helped found this country.” — Joseph Abboud
“This season, art — an integral strand of the Boss DNA — is our starting point. We take on the role of curator, traveling the world in search of creative ideas, and have stopped in New York. The gallery district in Chelsea has inspired the design, creation and curation of the new fall collection.” — Ingo Wilts, chief brand officer, Boss
“Dyne fall 2019 stays true to its technical sports-inspired roots, elevating the materials through texture and color and inspired by the beautiful outdoors of the Oregon Painted Hills. Tailoring is at its roots as always and fabrics have been sculpted

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Robert Geller Men’s Fall 2019

Robert Geller is taking us on a mountain-climbing expedition this fall.
After a three-season hiatus, the designer returned to New York Fashion Week: Men’s with a collection that took him into new territory. He applied his traditional romantic DNA to a performance-driven lineup spurred on by a new collaboration with Lululemon.

“Lulu pushed me in that direction,” he said. “But it’s also the spirit of the times and knowing the functionality of the garments.”

The use of bright neon greens and fuchsias in sweatshirts, pants and suits kept the athletic spirit at an all-time high. And a ubiquitous moon-pattern print that he used in coats, silky shirts, scarves and leggings was part of his fictitious mountainous climb to the moon.

A take on the slogan “I love you to the moon and back” was added to hooded sweatshirts and served as a reminder that Geller is still a romantic at heart.

While the Lululemon collaboration set the tone, Geller’s main collection concentrated around layered wool garments with some innovative dying techniques as seen in oversize wool coats, blazers and jackets all with nylon 3-D utility pockets.

The latest partnership with Common Projects resulted in a chic, high-tech hiking boot/sneaker that, paired with outdoor-inspired pants with articulated

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New York Men’s Fashion Week: Bruised, but Still in the Ring

After three years, the bold experiment of a stand-alone men’s wear fashion week struggles to survive.
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Dyne Men’s Fall 2019

Christopher Bevans has always been a bit of a rule-breaker and the backstory surrounding his fall collection for Dyne was no exception.
After visiting the Commonwealth Fashion Exchange exhibit at the Fashion Institute of Technology last fall, he got an idea: Why couldn’t he show his fall line at the school where he had gotten his degree some two decades ago? So, after speaking to the board and the dean, he got the go-ahead to use a street-level space on Seventh Avenue and 27th Street during New York Fashion Week.
Bevans converted the space into an installation that showed his collection of athletically fused sportswear and signature high-tech fabrics juxtaposed against a cluster of old-time electronics — many of them broken and jumbled together into a pile.
The message he was making was one of sustainability, one of the issues he’s most passionate about. “We have to continue to champion and share our knowledge on how to work in a more sustainable way,” he said.
For Dyne, that translates into the use of vetted factories in Taipei and fabrics that can be repurposed. Bevans collaborated with Swarovski to create a sweatshirt in crystals that spelled out “Save Us” in several languages. “I’m trying to bring

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Randa Invests in Stantt Men’s Brand

Randa has signed on as the lead investor in Stantt, a made-to-measure men’s wear brand. Randa was joined by New England Development, CompanyFirst, Sapna Shah of Red Giraffe Advisors, and entrepreneur John DeWees. The amount of the Series A financing was not disclosed but is said to have been a multi-million dollar investment.
The New York-based Stantt was cofounded in 2013 by Matt Hornbuckle and Kirk Keel and uses proprietary DataFit Technology, which is comprised of 99 sizes and an algorithm that requires only three measurements to create a custom fit. The brand offers wovens, knits and performance cloth in a variety of regular and big and tall sizes. All garments are made-to-order and delivered in seven days.
The financing round was led by Randa Digital Labs and will be used by Stantt to “increase marketing partnerships and support to more than 300 retail partners, enhance brand touch-points across all channels, drive expansion into new product categories and enable the hiring of key personnel,” the company said.
Heath Golden, president of Randa Digital Labs, said his company “appreciated the value of Stantt’s business model from the beginning. We are confident that Matt and Kirk will leverage these funds to take the company to the next

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Sundae School Men’s Fall 2019

Dae Lim is designing a smokewear line at an opportune time. Last season, medicinal marijuana wasn’t legal in South Korea, where he’s from — it is now — and the legalization of recreational weed wasn’t imminent in New York, where he currently lives. He likens this time, which he calls the Green Rush, to the Gold Rush, and used that to inform his collection.
Western references were the foundation of the line, but they were filtered through Lim’s viewpoint, which mixes workwear with traditional Korean garb and humorous graphics. That translated to pants updated with pleats, ceremonial knots and ankle wraps, tattoo turtlenecks covered in images of Chinese immigrants during the Gold Rush, and jackets with hanbok details. Outerwear included long down coats, while denim jackets were embellished with flames. The line was accented with tooled leather accessories meant to make a blunt or vape pen easily accessible.
Lim said his concept is resonating with retailers. He continues to be carried by Vfiles and was recently picked up by Barneys in New York and Los Angeles along with Intersect in Shanghai and Forty Five Ten in Dallas.
Lim has created a collection that celebrates weed without dumbing down craftsmanship. The focus is the

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EXCLUSIVE: Heron Preston on Opening Paris Men’s Fashion Week

PARIS — “Streetwear on the runways of Paris has always been that vision that I’ve shared with my friends, the ultimate opportunity to present some new fresh ideas in a city and platform that we have always looked up to,” said Heron Preston, who today at the Palais de Tokyo will present the first runway show of his namesake label, as part of the official calendar of Paris Men’s Fashion Week.
Call him a quick learner. Preston, who was “raised” by the skate culture in San Francisco where he grew up, and who first started making noise in 2012 with his art-project bootleg spins on the Givenchy Rottweiler T-shirt, said that it was only around four years ago, when he started working with Kanye West, that he was introduced to the world of Paris fashion.
A former art director for West, Preston — who’s considered a post-Internet Renaissance man — worked at Nike and was also a part of the Been Trill art and DJ collective with Virgil Abloh, Justin Saunders and Matthew Williams.
“I really put myself in that environment with Virgil, Matthew and Kanye [West]. And going to Paris with those guys, I was always that kid who felt like a bit

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All Hail the Stand-alone Men’s Showcase

PARIS — Whoever said fashion was fickle? At the opening of one of the most highly anticipated Paris men’s weeks in history, could the conscious uncoupling of a cluster of the industry’s most influential brands returning to stand-alone show formats for men’s trigger an about-turn from other players aboard the coed movement? And could the shift indicate that the coed format on many levels is not working out?
Among the switchers adding major clout to the week, which opened Tuesday, Givenchy, Jil Sander and Celine will present the first stand-alone men’s shows under their respective creative directors — Clare Waight Keller, Luke and Lucie Meier and Hedi Slimane — with the latter marking the brand’s first men’s show.
Paris newcomer J.W. Anderson has also returned to a separate showcase for men’s.
“We observe that after testing the formula, several brands [are going] back to stand-alone shows in order in their view to more clearly value each of the two collections,” noted Ralph Toledano, president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.
It’s a move that’s drawn the collective thumbs-up from men’s editors and buyers. But with the coed juggernaut already well in motion, the future of the dedicated men’s fashion

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MISBHV Men’s Fall 2019

The mass of people pressing against the entrance of the venue could only mean one thing: the invitation to the MISBHV show had been leaked. “There are 3,000 people waiting to see you, so give them a show they will remember,” said designer Natalia Maczek during a pep talk given to the models backstage, in what seemed like barely an exaggeration.
In an underground car park in the seediest part of the 18th arrondissement, guests were packed into a show venue defying all security rules (as well as the “no smoking” signs). WWD was told that an interview post-show would prove difficult, as the venue was going to be transformed into a rave party. Models got changed in the parking lot’s toilets. The air was charged with the smell of dope, spray-on deodorant and pre-show nerves.
The collection seemed to meet the crowd’s anticipation. Cheers greeted the casting, a blend of models scouted in the brand’s native Poland – “We wanted to support our country and show these faces to the world,” said Maczek, who designs alongside creative director Thomas Wirski – and international talent, with a focus on blurring gender codes. Richie, a photographer from New York, wore a prairie-style, high-waisted skirt

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Paris Men’s Fashion Week: A Survival Guide

Where: The Marais, still the go-to zone for new shops, eateries and cafés.
Shows in the area: Acne Studios, Facetasm, Alyx, Cmmn Swdn and Lemaire.
What not to miss: Looking for a bite to eat between Facetasm and Acne Studios? Leg it to Raw to Go, a new takeaway spot opened by culinary duo Marie and William Pradeleix that specializes in raw food — think sashimi, beef tartare, cold-pressed juices and cacao bars. For a spot of shopping, new men’s concept-store La Garçonnière carries more than 200 brands, including Danish outerwear label Rains, funky eyewear styles by French start-up Izipizi and the ubiquitous — and sustainable — Veja sneakers, as well as a barber shop. As happy hour comes closer, check out the new bar Cambridge Public House, which was opened on Jan. 14 by Hyacinthe Lescoët, former head barman at the Mary Céleste. “Fancy cocktail places can be a bit intimidating, so we wanted to recreate the vibe of an English pub, with cozy furniture and an open mindset,” said the drinks maestro. Good to know for Dry January: around a quarter of the creative cocktails listed on the menu will be spirit free.
Raw to Go, 56 Rue de Turenne, 75003. Open

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Bergdorf’s Bruce Pask to Get Shop at Men’s Store

Customers are about to get a much closer glimpse into the life and loves of Bergdorf Goodman’s men’s fashion director Bruce Pask.
Next month, the upscale men’s retailer will open a new shop on the third floor of its men’s store called B. The 450-square-foot space will offer a collection of some of Pask’s favorite pieces from brands including Craig Green, Le Mont St. Michel, Clarks Originals, Closed, Common Projects and Want Les Essentiels. The shop will also mark some new additions to the store, including Margaret Howell, Lou Dalton, Bode and Armor Lux.
Pask described the merchandise in B as “handpicked wardrobe-creation pieces but with a point of view.” The pieces are “neutral and easy, but a bit more special.” For example, he said he’s been wearing wide-leg pants for a while and Closed created a double-pleated khaki that fit that bill, while the desert boots he’s worn since he was in college were updated by Clark’s in a suede basket weave.
The merchandise will be sold in a multivendor approach rather than by individual brand, he said.
“It’s my personal take, but I believe it’s a broad enough edit to speak to a wide audience,” he said. “They’re great, easy, well-made, personality-filled

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Christian Dada Men’s Fall 2019

Masanori Morikawa created a strong collection charged with urban sartorial pieces and less of a nod to Eastern influences than in seasons past.
The show notes explained that the line, called Signal Noise, was influenced by a 1994 art happening, entitled “S/N” by Dumb Type, conceived by a Japanese artist collective that — through the piece — questioned discrimination and imagined a time devoid of borders and stereotypes. The performance’s aesthetic and political elements particularly inspired Morikawa for fall.
There was a coherence to this collection full of streamlined silhouettes for men and women, like the cinched black suit and jacket, brown velour trousers and bomber, and multicolored striped sweater over black velour pants.
This lineup was full of varied details, such as splayed cuffs, tape seams and winged motifs, and fabrics like a coated material appearing shiny; wool; leather, and cotton. Colors varied, too, from black and navy to mauve and teal.
What could have been clashing — the look, say, with a white turtleneck, multicolored, collage-like shirt, glossy gray trousers and long, zip-up gloves — coalesced.

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Jet Set Men’s Fall 2019

For Michael Michalsky, becoming creative director of Jet Set was like coming full circle. As a teenager growing up near the German city of Hamburg, he would take the train into town on Saturdays to window shop at the luxury sportswear brand’s store.
Eventually, he managed to buy one of its jackets on sale. That orange bomber jacket from 1984 has been reissued as part of Michalsky’s first collection for the St. Moritz-based label, which celebrates its 50th anniversary with a series of drops celebrating archival designs from its Eighties heyday.
“Jet Set during that time was in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Italy the non plus ultra luxury sportswear brand, basically. If I look back on it now, they created a segment that now every luxury brand really wants to get into,” he said.
“Ever since then I had a love affair with the brand, because I have always been very fascinated and very smitten by sportswear,” he added.
Jet Set couldn’t have dreamed of a better advocate for its revival. With a passionate eye for detail, Michalsky pointed out the technical details – many borrowed from U.S. military garb – on ripstop bomber jackets, heavyweight cotton T-shirts and performance ski suits.
Each drop will be

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Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Fall 2019

Boris Bidjan Saberi relayed Mongolian and Persian influences for fall, adding flavor to his precise, military-inspired designs. The silk road was awash with primary materials like copper and silver, he noted backstage following the show, and he decided to train his sights on the oxidation process.
Strips of copper decorated the faces of the models — “soldier makeup” in the designer’s words, with patches of aquamarine blue added to complete the closing number: a tailored jacket and shorts ensemble, in this bright blue, with a furry yak vest, in a silvery hue, strapped on top. High-top boots, also dyed in the prerequisite hue, completed the look, while sturdy straps reined in the silhouette, adding to the utilitarian feel. “My technical roots come from military garments — this is a driving force of the collection,” he said. The military bent was certainly back in full force this season.
The dyeing process — color! — was another underlying theme, as the lineup gradually shifted from grays and silvers to include pale blues before leading to an emphatic aquamarine.
The carefully considered choice of materials — yak wasn’t the only leather; there was also horse and kangaroo — and the accessories — small purses attached to

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Dries Van Noten Men’s Fall 2019

Add Dries Van Noten to the ranks of designers dialing back the sportswear this season. The show notes for his fall collection promised “a view on tailoring for the next generation” and “a step back from nonchalance and sportswear.”
It opened with a sequence of sartorial staples: a white shirt and tie, a pin-striped suit and a charcoal wool coat. Van Noten soon introduced a note of visual disruption, in the shape of tie-dye patterns that bloomed across sweaters, jeans and suits.
They were most striking in psychedelic bursts on silky reversible raincoats. Seemingly random, the patterns were in fact engineered to be “hyper optic and exactingly symmetric.” Together with a graphic carpet motif, they added a dash of Sixties bohemia to a display otherwise focused on subtle ways for a man to draw attention.
Those included a striking new suit shape, which paired a short jacket, with crisp shoulders and a high and narrow waist, with wide pleated pants. Also intriguing: the asymmetric quilted jackets that wrapped around the body like down comforters, and wool blankets that were wrapped around the waist like skirts.
The takeaway message: Being smart doesn’t have to be uncomfortable. Underlying it all was a suggestion that men need

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Saks Gets Retail Exclusive of Kim Jones’ Dior Men’s Collection

Saks Fifth Avenue has managed to snag the early launch of the much-coveted debut collection of Kim Jones for Dior Men.
Although the line will be offered at other stores in early February — including in an installation with some exclusive pieces at Nordstrom Men in New York and Seattle — Saks has secured the early retail exclusive for the line. The collection has already launched at Dior’s stores, including the eight in the U.S. that carry men’s wear.
Saks will be carrying the full collection of ready-to-wear, sneakers and accessories embellished with the brand’s signature bee logo that has been reimagined by street artist Kaws.
The summer collection will be available at Saks’ New York, Beverly Hills, Chicago, San Francisco, Atlanta, Houston and Toronto stores on Jan. 16, two weeks ahead of other retailers. It will not be available online at Saks but is being sold on the Dior e-commerce site.
Product pricing will range from $ 490 for a Kaws bee T-shirt to $ 5,900 for a crystal Kaws bee denim jacket.
Saks will devote the center six windows at its Fifth Avenue flagship to the launch from Jan. 16 to 30. They will feature Kaws’ designs, including the bee motif as well as his

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Off-White Men’s Fall 2019

As he gears up for the first museum exhibition of his work, Virgil Abloh has been delving into his childhood obsessions. His fall men’s show was titled “Public Television,” an exploration of his favorite shows growing up, from American children’s TV series “Mister Rogers’ Neighborhood” to sports broadcasts.
But this was no warm, fuzzy trip down memory lane. Abloh, a moving target if ever there was one, doesn’t do nostalgia — even as he prepares for the show of his career highlights so far at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Chicago, opening in June.
“I don’t look back. I’ve never been one to stop and think. I’m always going forward. I think that’s why getting this exhibit together had me for the first time even caring to look at old things. I’m less into things, but more into why we as humans in art or fashion, or outside of that, respond to things and what makes our taste,” he said.
Growing up in Rockford, Ill., his aesthetic was shaped by watching everything from basketball legend Michael Jordan to businesspeople — hence the wide range of references spilling onto the runway. Oversize suit jackets were paired with voluminous jeans, as if a Nineties

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Danilo Paura Men’s Fall 2019

Danilo Paura chose a small, newly refurbished theater in central Milan — a gem of a place called Teatro Gerolamo — to show off his colorful collection of streetwear and sporty styles, all of which are made in Italy. Looks included puffers, zebra-print trousers and scarves, knits in shades of acid green or bright blue — and even a pinstripe suit. On the footwear front, there were hiking boots and cowboy styles. Paura said that, more than anything else, he was proud of his fabrics, which included wool, cashmere, brushed mohair and cotton, and of their provenance and comfort.

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Italy’s Men’s Sales, Exports Grow in 2018, Brands Support MFW

MILAN — Trade policies, Brexit uncertainties, social protests in France and European political elections are factors that could influence the economy this year, but Brunello Cucinelli is unwavering: “Of one thing I am sure: it’s not true that men don’t want to buy, I don’t believe this at all.” With “at least three different posts” on social media per day, men “must change depending on the occasion. We take more care of our looks because we will be posted. It’s a new way of life,” he argued.
Figures released by Centro Studi of fashion industry association Confindustria Moda support this positive take — even 2019 is seen as “stable” compared with 2018 and showing “limited dynamism,” based on the spring 2019 orders. That said, the Italian men’s wear industry is expected to report 2018 sales of 9.44 billion euros, up 1.5 percent compared with 2017.
Men’s wear accounts for 17.5 percent of Italy’s textile and fashion revenues and 27.9 percent of all apparel. The first half of 2018 was particularly brisk, with exports up 5.5 percent, but business slowed starting last summer. Consumer spending in Italy was defined by the association as “one of the worst [since] 2013.” However, 2018 year-end figures

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Dsquared2 Men’s Fall 2019

In the Instagram era, experiences are becoming key to making a difference in the real, physical environment. While images and videos available on smartphones can help a brand spread its message, a proper event can guarantee guests will go back to their homes with special memories and emotions. This is what Dean and Dan Caten must have thought when they conceived the format of their fall runway show, with guests standing by the catwalk as at a music concert and bars serving drinks. And, indeed, the music was great — a mix of pop, dance and Madonna’s iconic songs. The thing is, people weren’t there for the soundtrack or the drinks. They were supposed to be there to see the clothes. Even if Dsquared2’s intentions were noble — offering a fun, entertaining and unconventional experience during fashion week — the result missed the mark, with several editors leaving before the end of the show because they couldn’t see a thing.
Those who managed to sneak in through the crowd witnessed a pop, rock ‘n’ roll, grungy, disco extravaganza. After presenting a pre-fall collection focused on chic, wearable pieces, the Caten brothers used their fall coed runway to send out a clear

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Front Row at Prada Men’s Fall 2019

PRADA’S BRITS: British actor Callum Turner took in his first Prada show, although he said he had been to Milan a few times. “I love Milan and managed to see friends in a short amount of time,” he said, adding a few Italian words. Coming up for Turner are a BBC “conspiracy thriller” and his role as Frank Churchill in a new rendition of “Emma,” opposite Anya Taylor-Joy playing the titular heroine. “We need more Emma,” he joked about the latest cinematic version of the Jane Austen novel. Filming “in and around England” will start in May, directed by this “really cool American photographer and director Autumn de Wilde, who did Beck’s album and lots of iconic rock ‘n’ roll photos.”
British actor Will Poulter said he was in Milan just for the Prada show, although he did manage to squeeze in one Italian meal. “Yeah, we went to Pizza Express,” joked Turner, who was sitting nearby. The Brits never leave their sense of humor behind, do they? Poulter is currently playing Colin, a computer programmer, in “Black Mirror: Bandersnatch” on Netflix and will star in “Midsommar,” a film about a summer holiday gone wrong, which is due for release later this year.
Turner and

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Kiton Men’s Fall 2019

“Respect” was one of the words spelled out on the walls of the Kiton showroom in Milan. “We must not forget where we come from,” said chief executive officer Antonio De Matteis. “I think too many are losing their way.”
To avoid that trap, Kiton’s core customer remains central to the brand and he is a global traveler—whether for business or pleasure. And that man needs a light, deconstructed suit that can be pulled out of a suitcase without any fuss. “Formal wear becomes smart casual clothing,” said De Matteis. One that comes with price tags that can reach between 30,000 and 50,000 euros in the case of soft vicuña jackets.
Exclusive fabrics continued to add new touches to Kiton’s staple Prince of Wales or houndstooth jackets. Four-ply cashmere jackets and hoodie shirts stood out, flanked by military styles similar to parkas with fur collars or reversible quilted jackets and a cashmere coat lined in weasel, nutria or mink combined with a double face garment with an extractable fleece lining.
Mariano and Walter De Matteis, the twin brothers and sons of the ceo, presented the third collection of their KNT line, which employs the same premium fabrics as Kiton but with a sportier

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Canali Men’s Fall 2019

After seasons of unveiling its collections at Milan Fashion Week, Canali made a comeback to Florence with an evening event hosted inside the prestigious Palazzo Antinori. This was a smart move for the brand, as opting for a presentation format managed to openly showcase the high-end quality of its men’s offering. In keeping with current trends, Canali refreshed its tailoring with a relaxed, leisurewear-inspired approach. Graphic urban jackets were crafted from luxury fabrics, while cashmere coats featured sporty details, including detachable nylon hoodies. Corduroy pants were matched with turtlenecks with an artisan feel and country-chic blazers, while the elegant attitude of pin-striped suits was tempered by the narrow coats peppered by macro houndstooth patterns. Cozy alpaca and mohair gave a cozy, warm feel to the overcoats, highlighting the collection’s overall sense of luxurious comfort.

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Dior Reschedules Men’s Show Due to Ongoing French Protests

CHANGE OF SCHEDULE: After casting a heavy shadow on the holiday retail period, France’s “gilets jaunes,” or yellow vests, movement threatens to disrupt the calendar of Paris men’s fashion week.
Dior on Tuesday sent out an e-mail advising guests that it was moving its show from its initial slot of 5 p.m. on Jan. 19 to 6 p.m. on Jan. 18 due to the ongoing antigovernment protests, which began on Nov. 17 and typically take place across the country on Saturdays. The fashion house has yet to disclose the location of the show.
The collection designed by Kim Jones will now be unveiled in a Friday slot in the official schedule between Comme des Garçons Homme Plus and Balmain Homme. Other major brands scheduled to show on Saturday include Loewe, making its runway debut, Thom Browne and Hermès.
Symbolized by demonstrators wearing yellow safety vests, the protest movement started out as discontent over a fuel tax but has broadened to encompass a range of frustrations over declining living standards, taking a violent turn that has caught the country by surprise and thrown the government of French President Emmanuel Macron into crisis.
Peaceful demonstrators have been joined by rioters who have targeted luxury stores and

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Loewe Unveils New Men’s Collection, Eye/LOEWE/Nature

NATURE BOYS — Loewe has launched a permanent extension to its men’s collection cleverly called Eye/LOEWE/Nature, a pun on the outdoorsy essence of the line and its focus on sustainable aspects.
The collection is comprised of accessories made in Japan, including a satchel, a tote and backpack styles, as well as parkas constructed from technical material, sweaters made from partly recycled cotton fibers, cargo shorts, trousers and shirts in the clothing categories. Prices start from $ 265 for swim briefs to $ 1,290 for a backpack and $ 1,650 for the long parka.
The collection is available now at the pop-up at 52 Brewer Street until Feb. 4 and in selected Loewe stores and loewe.com from Jan. 10. Additionally, Loewe will donate 15 euros (about $ 17 at current exchange rates) to help fight plastic pollution.
“The reality of [sustainability issues] kicked in when I was watching a program about how most of Europe gets a lot of food from Spain and, obviously, a lot of plastic packaging gets put into the ground as waste. And I thought, what can we do?” Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson told WWD at the launch party for a pop-up store for the collection on Brewer Street in Soho, London, a savvy location

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Do Men’s Fashion Weeks Have a Future?

The rise of genderless fashion and coed shows are sparking questions over the future of men’s fashion weeks.
According to data from Launchmetrics, the Media Impact Value — a quantitative number generated by an algorithm to measure the impact of relevant media placements — of men’s showcases around the world has been constantly diminishing as big names exit in favor of coed shows held during the women’s shows. Brands are also putting more focus on communicating one unified message across their men’s and women’s wear departments.
Data gathered during the spring 2019 events last June in New York and London showed they have been lagging behind in terms of the buzz created across print, digital and social media, generating 2.1 million euros and 5.8 million euros, respectively, in earned media impact value.
Men’s showcases in Florence, Milan and Paris, on the other hand, whose schedules are filled with big brand names, continue to hold on to their relevance.
Florence and Milan generated a combined media impact value of 49.4 million euros, while Paris Men’s Fashion Week generated 57.8 million euros.
Virgil Abloh’s Louis Vuitton debut lead the conversation last season — generating 18.2 million euros — and was followed by the likes of Dior, Versace,

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Astrid Andersen Men’s Fall 2019

Andersen brought a Copenhagen chill to her collection, which unfolded in the vast outdoor courtyard of Broadgate Plaza, near Liverpool Street station. She certainly came prepared, placing little disposable glove warmers on each chair for guests, and sending out a lineup of cozy knits and plump fur coats — in addition to lots of pinstripes and hand-painted prints.
The designer said she wanted to fuse the idea of streetwear with classical tailoring and luxury fur, as the lines between catwalk and street have blurred beyond recognition.
She worked charcoal pinstripe fabric into karate-style suits, puffers and tracksuit bottoms sealed with reflective tape. Her long, swooshing pinstripe topcoats had a gangster-ish feel to them. That pairing of formal and sporty worked beautifully, although it remains to be seen what bank, law firm or judge will let those outfits through the door.
Andersen worked lots of color into the collection, too, via freeform, hand-painted prints on shirts and hoodies and a terrific lineup of knitwear, including cable-knit leggings for a cold January night, and boxy color-blocked sweaters in rich combinations including corn and mint green.
Color also came in the form of fat, luscious fur coats. They were long and silvery, hip-length and baby blue, or short

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What to Watch: New York Fashion Week: Men’s Latest Challenges

New York Fashion Week: Men’s has had trouble gaining a foothold since it was launched by the Council of Fashion Designers of America four years ago. The upcoming fall shows — slated for Feb. 4 to 6 — are facing even bigger challenges. First, an unexpected one-time shift in dates by the trade shows in Las Vegas means that retailers and editors who usually attend both will have to make a choice or abbreviate one or both of the events. Project, Liberty Fairs and Agenda will be held Feb. 5 to 7.
On top of that, many of fashion’s biggest and buzziest names have opted to either hold dual-gender shows or have decamped to other cities. Tom Ford will again hold a men’s and women’s show, as he has in past seasons, at 8 p.m. on Feb. 6, officially ending the men’s shows. The women’s shows kick off with Ralph Lauren on Feb. 7 at 10 a.m.
Also opting for dual-gender shows later in the week are Palm Angels — which is making its New York debut — on Feb. 8; John Elliott on Feb. 9; Opening Ceremony on Feb. 10, and Michael Kors on the final day, Feb. 13.
Calvin Klein, which

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Iceberg Men’s Fall 2019

James Long has been having a ball tearing through Iceberg’s archives and mixing up the brand’s Lego-bright, wacky Eighties knits with his own British aesthetic. This season he spliced punk and giant puffers with Mickey Mouse, Italian tailoring and skiwear to great effect.
“It’s sort of punk-y mountain, going from Milan to visit the punks in the mountains,” said Long, his neck glittering with long gold chains. He was also inspired by the fashion crazes and cross-pollination that happened when English football fans traveled to Italy for soccer games in the Eighties – and came back showing off all their bright clothing.
The result was a happy mash-up of knits with bright zigzags, abstract snowflakes or Mickey Mouse’s ears picked out in sequins and big, bright Iceberg logos that were slapped across zip-front hoodies or around the sleeves of black bombers and long nylon jackets. Kilts came with flashes of bright logo prints in between in the red tartan.
Long also sent out a snazzy lineup of tailored outerwear, including a plasticized chiffon logo trench from the women’s pre-fall 2019 collection, and elegant wool overcoats adorned with colorful Iceberg lettering.
Bright headbands and bulbous ski goggles screamed Milan-in-St. Moritz, as did those flashy track suits

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London Fashion Week Men’s Fall 2019: What to See, Eat and Where to Shop

LONDON — The first weekend in January is never an easy one, but London has the antidote, with a lineup of streetwear and luxury stores and restaurants serving everything from classic British to Taiwanese food, all of which will be open during London Fashion Week Men’s.

London store End. 
Peter Cook

END OF THE LINE: British property group Shaftesbury has expanded its retail portfolio, opening the first London outpost for the online men’s wear store, End. Occupying 9,000 square feet on the corner of Broadwick and Marshall Streets, the two-story glass-fronted space offers a range of collections from labels including Off-White, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Nike and Adidas Consortiums. The store, which already has units in Newcastle, England, and Glasgow, Scotland, features modern furnishings such as marble staircases and glass showcases.
End is part of a strategy by Shaftesbury to position Soho as a go-to destination for emerging brands. The company has been offering reasonable rents in the neighborhood, which is a few minutes’ walk from Oxford and Regent Streets. Shaftesbury has also helped to install Supreme, Palace, Carhartt and Dukes Cupboard, a multibrand retailer, in the neighborhood. Samantha Bain-Mollison, head of retail at Shaftesbury, has been driving the strategy. She describes End as “influential, with a renowned selection of directional and globally sourced men’s wear.” — Hannah Connolly
End
59

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Men’s Spring 2019 Trend: Retro Businessman

What’s the difference between a woebegone, Seventies-era businessman and a spring 2019 hipster? Less than you might think. Designers are serving up retro-tinged tailoring and suburban-dad sportswear that’s so uncool, it’s cool.

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Men’s Brands Breathe New Life Onto Bleecker Street

Bleecker Street has become a magnet for men’s wear.
The once-red hot stretch of the West Village stumbled badly over the past few years as nationally known names such as Marc Jacobs, Brunello Cucinelli and Ralph Lauren exited in the face of escalating rents and declining sales.
In fact, at its lowest point last year, there was a 25 percent vacancy rate for all of Bleecker from the East to West Villages, according to Chelsea Mullen, marketing director of the Skylight Group, which has been working to revitalize the street.
Joel Isaacs, founder and president of Isaacs and Co., a key real estate broker for the area, said a primary reason for the “revival” on Bleecker is that “rents have corrected and have gone from $ 600 a square foot to around $ 200.”
But it’s more than just rent that draws people to Bleecker. He said despite the empty storefronts, the street retains its charm and beauty. Residents of the area are very affluent, he said, and everyone — New Yorkers and visitors alike — like to stroll the street.
Slowly and without a lot of fanfare over the last year, many of those vacant storefronts have found new life as independent men’s brands — many of

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Men’s Wear Brand Fisher + Baker Targets Women for Minneapolis Event

Fisher + Baker is a men’s brand, but that didn’t stop the company from targeting women for an event at its Minneapolis headquarters earlier this month.
More than 80 women showed up at the Fisher + Baker studio for a Sip and Shop event, its first initiative targeted to females.
The event also served as a fund-raiser for Minnesota Wild’s Jason Zucker’s #Give16 Campaign, which was created by Zucker and his wife, Carly, to build the Zucker Family Suite and Broadcast Studio at the University of Minnesota Masonic Children’s Hospital.
Fisher + Baker donated $ 2,500 to the campaign from the event.
“Women are powerful consumers and are influential in the brand and style decisions of the men in their lives,” said Mike Arbeiter, Fisher + Baker’s chief executive officer and president. “By targeting female consumers as part of our brand engagement strategy, we are building awareness with a community that has a strong influence on men’s wardrobes.”
At the event, the women browsed through the brand’s classic styles of outerwear, sweaters and shirts while enjoying wine and cheese. Among the most popular items was the Lexington Vest, which retails for $ 298.
Arbeiter said the Sip and Shop event “was intended as a pilot concept that if

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Alexander McQueen Missing From Paris Men’s Week

SHOW BUSINESS: Big acts missing from the official schedule of Paris Men’s Week in January will include Alexander McQueen. The house plans to switch to a series of intimate events as its new presentation format, WWD has learned. The first will take place in London in May for the fall 2019 season. “Intrinsically connected to the bespoke tailoring heritage of Alexander McQueen men’s wear, these events will be central to the evolution of the house’s commitment to the championing of creativity, craftsmanship and innovation,” the brand said. The house moved to showing in Paris in June 2017 after having shown by appointment in Milan and London in previous seasons.
As expected, Lanvin, which recently parted ways with its men’s creative director Lucas Ossendrijver, is also missing from the lineup, according to the Chambre Syndicale which released its provisional schedule for the week on Friday.
Maison Margiela will also sit out the Paris men’s shows this season as it undergoes a strategic review under chief executive officer Riccardo Bellini, who joined the company in March. The house is believed to be aligning its men’s ready-to-wear collection more closely with its women’s line and Artisanal couture collection. Maison Margiela creative director John Galliano oversees

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J.W. Anderson to Join Paris Men’s Schedule

MAN UP: J.W. Anderson, one of London’s most anticipated shows, figures among the new additions to the Paris men’s calendar for January, joining a stellar lineup of heavy hitters and fresh talent.
The move marks a change of strategy for the brand, which last December shifted to a coed display timed with the British capital’s women’s fashion weeks. During the week, founder Jonathan Anderson will also be presenting Loewe’s inaugural men’s show, as the house’s creative director, with the date yet to be confirmed, the Chambre Syndicale confirmed on Tuesday.
Among heavy-hitter additions to the week, Celine will stage its first men’s show, mere months after creative director Hedi Slimane launched its men’s wear division during a coed show on Sept. 28. The show may include a handful of women’s designs. Givenchy is also switching back to the men’s wear fashion calendar, with a presentation planned for Jan. 16, as reported, with Kris Van Assche set to present his first main collection for Berluti.
Other brands scheduled to present on the official runway schedule, representing an international mix of newcomers and returning brands, include Raf Simons, which presented off-schedule in Paris last season after three seasons in New York, Vetements, Jil Sander, Heron

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Dior Men’s x Maxfield KAWS Capsule Debuts in L.A.

Los Angeles fans of Kim Jones’ work for Dior Men’s will be among the first to shop the summer 2019 capsule collection, which was installed Wednesday at Maxfield’s Jean Prouvé ‘Nomade’ House at 8825 Melrose Avenue and will run until Dec. 26. The first pop-up made its debut at Isetan in Tokyo last month.
The Dior Men’s artistic director commissioned artist KAWS to reimagine the Dior logo and iconic bee for a variety of streetwear-inspired products including T-shirts, jackets, sweatshirts, backpacks and accessories from the Dior Oblique line such as sneakers, and denim pieces using the special craft of Japanese Boro. The complex 17th-century embroidery technique punctuates some of the casual denim pieces to give them a “couture” flavor. In addition, Jones reinterpreted the Saddle Bag for men for the first time. Retail prices range from $ 550 to $ 2,350.
There’s also a limited-edition, white Oblique BMX bike that comes for the first time with a “Dior Oblique” patterned aluminum case with side and top handles for easy carry, in case one chooses to travel with it.
Hard to miss is the large-scale, yellow-and-black cabochon light KAWS bee in Maxfield’s street-front window and another one within the Prouvé House installation that stands roughly eight

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Dior Men’s Pre-Fall 2019

TOKYO — The future of men’s fashion is here.
That was the feeling at Kim Jones’ first pre-fall show for Dior, which was held in a towering circular space inside a steel and glass building on an island of reclaimed land in Tokyo Bay. At the center of the venue was Japanese contemporary artist Hajime Sorayama’s nearly 40-foot-tall metallic sculpture of a sexy female robot figure.
Many of the looks Jones sent around the runway gleamed as brightly as the robot did, with metallic Tyvek jackets, iridescent jacquard suits, polished metal saddle bags, and steel baseball caps by Stephen Jones all vying for attention. A down puffer jacket in metallic blue seemed to trick the eyes, looking different from every angle.
“It’s actually a black garment that gets put into a vacuum and the metal is then sucked through it and sticks to it. So each thing comes out slightly different,” Jones said. “So you get these imperfections, which look beautiful and give more of a sort of personality to the work, and I think that applies nicely to a couture house.”
But as futuristic as some of the pieces were, Jones said his inspiration came mainly from the history of the house. He

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SportChek – Select Men’s Clothing & Shoes Up to 50% Off at SportChek! Offer Valid 11/29-12/6. Shop Now!

Select Men’s Clothing & Shoes Up to 50% Off at SportChek! Offer Valid 11/29-12/6. Shop Now!
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SportChek – Select Men’s Clothing & Shoes Up to 50% Off at SportChek! Offer Valid 11/29-12/6. Shop Now!

Select Men’s Clothing & Shoes Up to 50% Off at SportChek! Offer Valid 11/29-12/6. Shop Now!
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SportChek – Cyber Monday – Men’s Clothing & Shoes up to 60% Off Sale at SportChek! Offer Valid 11/26-11/29. Shop Now!

Cyber Monday – Men’s Clothing & Shoes up to 60% Off Sale at SportChek! Offer Valid 11/26-11/29. Shop Now! *Our regular price. Limited quantities. Selection may vary by locations, order must be completed by November 29th, 2018 1:59 AM ET to qualify.
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Ampersand Collective Brings Online Men’s Brands Into Retail Space

Some digitally native men’s brands have come together in a brick-and-mortar play for the holiday season.
Called Ampersand Collective, the 10-day pop-up on New York’s Lower East Side will feature gifts for guys from Stuart & Lau​​, a luggage and accessories brand; men’s outerwear from North & Mark​​; dress shoes from ​Wolf & Shepherd​​; ​hats and other haberdashery items from BM Franklin​​; grooming products from ​Fulton & Roark; timepieces from ​The 5th​​; socks and underwear from ​Nice Laundry​, and bikes from Tokyobike.
The idea for the shop was hatched by Stuart & Lau and North & Mark as a way to bring their brands to a different audience.

“I am proud to have brought together some of the best emerging men’s and gear brands together for this short-term residency,” said Matt Stuart, founder of Stuart & Lau. “As mostly digital native brands, this pop-up brings us off-line ​and offers the opportunity to showcase the brands in a physical location.”
Steve Cho, founder of North & Mark, added: “It’s very exciting to have a physical place where people can come to and try products they normally could only get online. Even in the digital age, people still need to touch and feel products before they purchase. The brands

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Valentino RTW and Men’s Pre-Fall 2019

TOKYO — A day after unveiling a new retail concept at its Ginza flagship store, Valentino staged its first runway show in Japan since the Eighties, with creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli also showing women’s wear and men’s wear together for the first time.
“In Japan and in the world today, I don’t think you feel such a difference between genders,” the designer said. “It’s a different way of working, but the philosophy behind men and women I think is the same. So the clothes are different, a different wardrobe, but the values are the same.”
Piccioli drew on classic couture detailing for women and tailoring for men, but reimagined them in a more modern way that is more appropriate for every day.
“I didn’t want to do streetwear or daywear generically,” he said. “I wanted to get the identity of the house, but going into the street.”
The result was a pre-fall collection that struck a perfect balance between red-carpet drama and practicality. Many of the most iconic codes of Valentino could be found yet refreshed. Flowers, such as those that adorned the dress Marisa Berenson was photographed in for Vogue in 1968, showed up as tiny buds adorning a knit dress with rows

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SportChek – Cyber Monday – Men’s Clothing & Shoes up to 60% Off Sale at SportChek! Offer Valid 11/26-11/29. Shop Now!

Cyber Monday – Men’s Clothing & Shoes up to 60% Off Sale at SportChek! Offer Valid 11/26-11/29. Shop Now! *Our regular price. Limited quantities. Selection may vary by locations, order must be completed by November 29th, 2018 1:59 AM ET to qualify.
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Expire: 2018-11-29 02:00:00
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Another Change Hits Italy’s Men’s Brands as Corneliani CEO Exits

MILAN — Marking yet another change within Italy’s men’s wear industry, Corneliani SpA chief executive officer Paolo Roviera has exited the storied company and has been succeeded by Luigi Ferrando.
In a brief statement, the Mantua-based firm said it “confirms the development goals of the Corneliani brand, in line with the strategies outlined in 2016.” The date refers to the acquisition by Bahrain-based Investcorp of a majority stake in Corneliani in June that year and signaling the fund’s increasing focus on luxury. The deal was meant at the time to be preparatory to an initial public offering, which has not taken place, and also overcome succession plans.
Ferrando joins Corneliani, known for its sleek tailoring and high-end quality products, from a different sector, as he leverages experience in furniture. His curriculum lists managerial positions at Unopiù and Arquati as well as lighting firms Targetti and Louis Poulsen.
Roviera arrived at Corneliani in September 2016, tasked with the expansion of the brand globally. He was previously ceo of Pal Zileri, controlled by Qatar-based Mayhoola.
Carlalberto Corneliani, who founded the company in 1958 with his late brother Claudio, was succeeded by Investcorp’s Hazem Ben-Gacem as chairman of Corneliani.
Investcorp, a leading provider and manager of alternative investment products, controls the Danish

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SportChek – Cyber Monday – Men’s Clothing & Shoes up to 60% Off Sale at SportChek! Offer Valid 11/26-11/29. Shop Now!

Cyber Monday – Men’s Clothing & Shoes up to 60% Off Sale at SportChek! Offer Valid 11/26-11/29. Shop Now! *Our regular price. Limited quantities. Selection may vary by locations, order must be completed by November 29th, 2018 1:59 AM ET to qualify.
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Burberry Men’s and Women’s Autumn/Winter 2019 Pre-Collection

Riccardo Tisci has just begun to make his mark on Burberry, so it’s no surprise that he’s traveling the path set out in September, doing women’s and men’s clothing for multiple generations and moments in the day.
Burberry’s chief creative officer said he wanted this collection to be a continuation of the story he began telling earlier this year. “I’m focusing on establishing our codes through archive prints, house colors and iconic outerwear, while cementing the new themes I set out last season.”
Tisci built on his beloved animal motifs: Gorilla faces stared out from T-shirts while unicorns galloped over a padded, silk shawl. A leopard collar curled around the neck of a Dalmatian print car coat while leather bridle straps, a nod to the old Burberry knight-on-horseback logo, adorned trenches and suit jackets. A faux patchwork shearling coat bowed to the house’s new anti-fur policy.
The new TB monogram, which Tisci unveiled earlier this year, was out in force, transformed into dark green camouflage for a hoodie, shorts and a cape, and in a more delicate iterations on scarves, satin skirts and silk blouses. The intertwined TB popped as a big logo on a punchy orange puffer vest, while a shadowy TB motif

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SportChek – Black Friday – Men’s & Women’s Sorel Footwear 20% Off at SportChek! Offer Valid 11/20-11/28. Shop Now!

Black Friday – Men’s & Women’s Sorel Footwear 20% Off at SportChek! Offer Valid 11/20-11/28. Shop Now! *Our in-store ticket price. Select brands and styles. Limited quantities. Selection may vary by location. Order must be completed by November 28th, 2018 1:59 AM ET to qualify
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SportChek – Black Friday – Men’s & Women’s Sorel Footwear 20% Off at SportChek! Offer Valid 11/20-11/28. Shop Now!

Black Friday – Men’s & Women’s Sorel Footwear 20% Off at SportChek! Offer Valid 11/20-11/28. Shop Now! *Our in-store ticket price. Select brands and styles. Limited quantities. Selection may vary by location. Order must be completed by November 28th, 2018 1:59 AM ET to qualify
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B.U.M. Equipment Signs Men’s Sleepwear License

B.U.M. Equipment is expanding its reach.
The brand has signed a licensing deal with Vandale Industries for men’s loungewear and sleepwear starting with the fall 2019 season.
This brings the number of licenses for the young men’s and juniors brand to 12.
Stephen Wayne, chairman of B.U.M. Equipment LLC, who has owned the trademark since 1997, said: “The signing of Vandales will be a great addition to our product assortment offered in the U.S. market. It gives us another 10 to 15 additional sku’s [stockkeeping units] in the men’s area, which we relaunched last back-to-school with Urban Outfitters.”
Wayne, who acquired the trademark out of bankruptcy court 21 years ago, relaunched in 2017 on B.U.M.’s 30th anniversary. In its heyday in the early- to mid-2000s, it had some 35 licenses and sales of around $ 3 billion

Founded in 1986 as a street fashion brand, B.U.M. rode the popularity of that trend until 1996 when its then-owner, Chauvin International Ltd., saw a sales decline, which contributed to financial difficulties for the brand and a bankruptcy filing in 1996.
Wayne said he continues to seek additional licenses for the U.S. and overseas.
Vandale was established in 1982 as a women’s intimate apparel company and holds the license for Vince Camuto in men’s and Jessica Simpson, Izod and Lucky Brand in women’s. 

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SportChek – Select Men’s Clothing & Shoes up to 50% Off SportChek! Offer Valid 11/1-11/15. Shop Now!

Select Men’s Clothing & Shoes up to 50% Off SportChek! Offer Valid 11/1-11/15. Shop Now! *Our regular price. Limited quantities. Selection may vary by locations, order must be completed by November 15th, 2018 1:59 AM ET to qualify.
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SportChek – Select Men’s Clothing & Shoes up to 50% Off SportChek! Offer Valid 11/1-11/15. Shop Now!

Select Men’s Clothing & Shoes up to 50% Off SportChek! Offer Valid 11/1-11/15. Shop Now! *Our regular price. Limited quantities. Selection may vary by locations, order must be completed by November 15th, 2018 1:59 AM ET to qualify.
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SportChek – Select Men’s Clothing & Shoes up to 50% Off SportChek! Offer Valid 11/1-11/15. Shop Now!

Select Men’s Clothing & Shoes up to 50% Off SportChek! Offer Valid 11/1-11/15. Shop Now! *Our regular price. Limited quantities. Selection may vary by locations, order must be completed by November 15th, 2018 1:59 AM ET to qualify.
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SportChek – Select Men’s Clothing & Shoes up to 50% Off SportChek! Offer Valid 11/1-11/15. Shop Now!

Select Men’s Clothing & Shoes up to 50% Off SportChek! Offer Valid 11/1-11/15. Shop Now! *Our regular price. Limited quantities. Selection may vary by locations, order must be completed by November 15th, 2018 1:59 AM ET to qualify.
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New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Vegas Date Overlap Causing Angst

Eeny, meeny, miny, moe — make your choice — New York Fashion Week: Men’s or MAGIC.
A shift in dates by Project, the flagship men’s wear trade show of the MAGIC Marketplace in Las Vegas, to a week earlier in February is forcing many brands and retailers to choose between the two events or, in the case of smaller designers, create extra samples in order to have a presence at both.
NYFW: Men’s will run Feb. 4 to 6 in New York City while Project will run Feb. 5 to 7 in Las Vegas.
Already Liberty Fairs and Agenda have had to leave their longtime home at the Sands Convention Center in order to align with Project’s dates and have secured a spot in downtown Las Vegas for their shows.
Sharifa Murdock, co-owner of Liberty, said she’s aiming to deliver a different experience this time. Liberty will be held at the World Market Center, which she described as an “open space with four big tents” that will allow Liberty a clean slate to “create what we want. We’re going to do something brand new,” she said.
That will include “a lot of activations” that will offer a “fresh” take on the trade show scene. “We

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Mistergentleman Men’s Spring 2019

Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii’s shows have come to be known as a highlight of Tokyo Fashion Week, and this season was no different. Since they began staging runway shows, they have honed their style so that each collection is fun and uplifting, and stylish with a hint of humor. The theme for spring was “vibrant,” which was clearly illustrated through their diverse color palette.
The designers layered sheer T-shirts over solid ones, sheer bomber jackets over button-down shirts, and sheer shorts over khaki ones. Bright neon trim appeared on the cuffs of dress shirts and at the back of trenchcoats, and panels of contrasting fabric were added to moto jackets and short-sleeved shirts. A series of color-blocked leggings and body-hugging jumpsuits in mixed prints were worn under more formal pieces such as blazers and toggle coats.
From socks with sporty drawcord tops to bags made by Outdoor Products, Karrimor and Speedo, the accessories rounded out the collection with fun and function.

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Berluti Men’s Spring 2019

While fellow designers Kim Jones at Dior and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton were making splashy runway debuts in June, Kris Van Assche was quietly unveiling his first collection for Berluti to buyers in showroom appointments.
Editors discovered the collection this week, when it was presented in a temporary glass-walled pavilion designed by Jean Prouvé, set up on the Place de la Concorde in Paris to coincide with the FIAC contemporary art fair.
Designed as a prologue to his first runway show, scheduled for January, the capsule line reflected the mix of tailoring and sportswear that has been a trademark of Van Assche’s previous work, both at Dior men’s and for his own label.
Cropped-leg suits and white shirts, some with black leather patches, rubbed shoulders with smart cashmere blousons and hoodies, including one in paper-thin red lamb leather.
Van Assche used the Scritto, an 18th-century manuscript motif that normally appears on Berluti shoes, in a variety of guises: as a graphic black print on a white T-shirt, a multicolored pattern on a black shirt, or tone-on-tone jacquard accents on a cream tuxedo.
The house’s trademark patina appeared as a blue and red colorway deployed across clothing — such as a cashmere and silk crewneck

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Rabd Men’s Spring 2019

Name: Rabd
Main message: According to its profile, this brand aims to make “clothing that adds colors and [an] uplifting feeling for everyday life,” but you would never guess it from its spring collection. Designer Kanya Miki, a former assistant to John Galliano, showed a severe collection in shades of black, white and gray. He paired wide-legged, extralong pants with motorcycle jackets or a variety of T-shirts, some with asymmetric lines. While designed for men, the offering was shown on models of both genders to demonstrate its versatility.
The result: Rabd’s first runway outing showed a cohesive and consistent collection, but the looks were so similar that it often seemed they were being repeated over and over.

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Former Apparel Execs Aim to Make Most Comfortable Men’s Denim

Ryan Mark and Danny Kurtzman are calling Alday, their new men’s denim line, the most comfortable jeans on the market.
Alday is the brainchild of Mark and Kurtzman, who were struggling to find stretch denim for men that wasn’t constricting.
The cofounders and designers, who met while working at 3Point Distribution, a California company that manages the design and production on a variety of brands including the men’s wear line Ezekiel, struggled to find stretch denim that felt good, so they decided to introduce their own brand on Kickstarter.
“We couldn’t find a pair of denim that was both comfortable and still looked great, so we decided to create the most comfortable denim ourselves,” Mark said. “Our goal is not to just build another clothing brand, but to create a product that people truly enjoy. We chose Kickstarter to build up a core audience that is passionate about the product and wants to be involved in its growth.”
Alday denim is made with open knit technology that features four-way stretch, deep pockets for cell phones and hardware that helps denim hold up to daily wear and tear. This results in a lightweight denim that works for a variety of body types.
The proposition has resonated on

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Men’s Sneakers Are Getting Freakishly Heavy

Trendy fall pairs from designers like Gucci and Balenciaga will add a few extra pounds to your overall body mass. But is that a good thing?
WSJ.com: Lifestyle

SHOPPING DISCOUNT UPDATE:

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DKNY Licenses H. Best for Men’s Underwear

DKNY is diving into the lucrative men’s underwear market.
The brand, which is owned by G-III Apparel Group, has signed a license with H. Best Ltd. to develop men’s underwear and loungewear. The collection, which will hit better department and specialty stores for the holiday, will include cotton briefs, boxer briefs, crewneck tees and V-neck tees.

The DKNY men’s briefs by H. Best. 

“DKNY has a modern, confident and strong aesthetic, and consumers have always responded well to the brand’s approach to dressing men,” said Tom Speight, chief executive officer and president of H. Best. “Each garment has technical attributes that are perfect for today’s on-the-go guy: comfortable, tagless waistbands, and antimicrobial attributes among other experience-enhancing qualities.”
Jeff Goldfarb, executive vice president of G-III Apparel, said: “Building this category is a core element in our growth strategy for the brand, and we look forward to partnering with them as we work together to launch this new collection for DKNY.”
The $ 2.4 billion New York-based G-III purchased Donna Karan International, parent of the DKNY label, from LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton for $ 650 million at the end of 2016. The men’s collection was reintroduced to the market last April after being absent since the fall of 2015.
H.

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Y/Project to Unveil Men’s Fall Collection at Pitti Uomo

MILAN — Y/Project will show its men’s fall 2019 collection in Florence as guest brand of the next edition of international men’s wear trade show Pitti Uomo, running Jan. 8 to 11.
Y/Project’s collections are designed by Glenn Martens, who succeeded the brand’s founder Yohan Serfaty as creative director in 2013. Serfaty passed away that year.
Under the creative direction of Martens, the Paris-based label won the ANDAM Grand Prize award in 2017 and consolidated its presence in the most relevant department stores in the world, including Dover Street Market, Barneys, Selfridges, Lane Crawford and Jeffrey.
“Glenn Martens created for Y/Project a new aesthetic language, based on contradictions,” said Pitti Immagine communication and events director Lapo Cianchi. “Elegance is juxtaposed with eclectic and extravagant references, streetwear is enriched with historic details and exaggerated couture touches. The brand offers a highly conceptual design in line with the most advances projects in the market and Martens express a witty sense of humor and has a very personal fashion vision, based on freedom, experimentation and fun, without boundaries.”
Last June, Martens unveiled in Milan his capsule collection for the Diesel Red Tag label. Craig Green and Roberto Cavalli were the latest guests designer at Pitti Uomo last June.

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EXCLUSIVE: L’Exception Adds Private Label Men’s Line

PARIS — L’Exception, the Paris-based online retailer dedicated to French labels, is launching a direct-to-consumer private label men’s line.
The idea, said founder Régis Pennel, is not to go into competition with the brands they sell but to present a complementary line of basics. The preppy line includes parkas, roll necks in merino wool, old-school cardigans and flannel shirts, with prices going from 35 euros for a T-shirt to 120 euros for a denim jacket.

A denim jacket from the line. 
Courtesy

Designing the line is Rémi de Laquintane, founder of Laquintane and cofounder of Parisian men’s wear label Éditions MR, both of which are carried by L’Exception. Lewis Lazar and Christopher Moore of French group the Oracle Sisters, which channels a Seventies vibe, are cited as the muses of the collection.
Launching on Oct. 11, the line will be sold exclusively on the retailer’s site and in a dedicated corner at its brick-and-mortar store in the Forum des Halles shopping center, with regular drops and a focus on European materials and production. The details of the supply chain will be shared on the site.
Pennel described the line as being very Parisian in style — “classic with a twist.”
“We thought more about core products for our

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SportChek – Men’s & Women’s Clearance Priced Footwear Sale At Sportchek. Offer Ends 10/10. Shop Now!

Take an additional 25% Off Men’s & Women’s Clearance Priced Shoes. *Applied to items ending in 97¢ & 88¢. Select brands and styles. Selection may vary by locations, order must be completed by Oct 10th, 2018 1:59 AM ET to qualify.
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Begin: 2018-10-04 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-10 00:00:00
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SportChek – Men’s & Women’s Clearance Priced Footwear Sale At Sportchek. Offer Ends 10/10. Shop Now!

Take an additional 25% Off Men’s & Women’s Clearance Priced Shoes. *Applied to items ending in 97¢ & 88¢. Select brands and styles. Selection may vary by locations, order must be completed by Oct 10th, 2018 1:59 AM ET to qualify.
Code: No Code Required
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SportChek – Select Men’s & Women’s Footwear Buy One Get One 50% Off* At Sportchek. Offer Ends 10/3. Shop Now!

Select Men’s & Women’s Shoes Buy One, Get One 50% Off. *Select brands & styles. 2nd item must be of equal or lesser value. Cannot be combined with Kids’ Shoes or any other offer. Selection may vary by locations, order must be completed by Oct 3rd, 2018 1:59 AM ET to qualify.
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Begin: 2018-09-22 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-03 00:00:00
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SportChek – Select Men’s & Women’s Footwear Buy One Get One 50% Off* At Sportchek. Offer Ends 10/3. Shop Now!

Select Men’s & Women’s Shoes Buy One, Get One 50% Off. *Select brands & styles. 2nd item must be of equal or lesser value. Cannot be combined with Kids’ Shoes or any other offer. Selection may vary by locations, order must be completed by Oct 3rd, 2018 1:59 AM ET to qualify.
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Begin: 2018-09-22 00:00:00
Expire: 2018-10-03 00:00:00
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SportChek – Select Men’s & Women’s Footwear Buy One Get One 50% Off* At Sportchek. Offer Ends 10/3. Shop Now!

Select Men’s & Women’s Shoes Buy One, Get One 50% Off. *Select brands & styles. 2nd item must be of equal or lesser value. Cannot be combined with Kids’ Shoes or any other offer. Selection may vary by locations, order must be completed by Oct 3rd, 2018 1:59 AM ET to qualify.
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Kendall Jenner Makes Us Want to Wear Men’s Denim in $35 Levi’s

ESC: Kendall JennerKendall Jenner is taking fashion inspiration from the guys and it’s awesome.
Last night, the Keeping Up With the Kardashians star stepped out for a trip to an amusement park in the…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

Special Tip Update!

Kendall Jenner Makes Us Want to Wear Men’s Denim in $35 Levi’s

ESC: Kendall JennerKendall Jenner is taking fashion inspiration from the guys and it’s awesome.
Last night, the Keeping Up With the Kardashians star stepped out for a trip to an amusement park in the…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

SPECIAL DEAL UPDATE!

SportChek – Select Men’s & Women’s Footwear Buy One Get One 50% Off* At Sportchek. Offer Ends 10/3. Shop Now!

Select Men’s & Women’s Shoes Buy One, Get One 50% Off. *Select brands & styles. 2nd item must be of equal or lesser value. Cannot be combined with Kids’ Shoes or any other offer. Selection may vary by locations, order must be completed by Oct 3rd, 2018 1:59 AM ET to qualify.
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SportChek – Select Men’s & Women’s Footwear Buy One Get One 50% Off* At Sportchek. Offer Ends 10/3. Shop Now!

Select Men’s & Women’s Shoes Buy One, Get One 50% Off. *Select brands & styles. 2nd item must be of equal or lesser value. Cannot be combined with Kids’ Shoes or any other offer. Selection may vary by locations, order must be completed by Oct 3rd, 2018 1:59 AM ET to qualify.
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Michael Kors Brings Pesaresi on Board to Helm Men’s Division

Michael Kors Holdings Limited has named Andrea Pesaresi president of Michael Kors Men’s, effective Oct. 15.
He succeeds Don Witkowski, who passed away in June, and will report to John D. Idol, chairman and chief executive officer.
Pesaresi was most recently ceo of Philippe Model, but prior to that, he spent 25 years at Ermenegildo Zegna, where his most recent role was brand director of Z Zegna and Licensing, a post that encompassed product development, brand strategy, international expansion and marketing. Pesaresi joined Philippe Model, an Italian sneaker brand, at the end of 2016.
“Andrea has been in the industry for 30 years and comes to us with extensive knowledge of the evolving luxury men’s marketplace,” Idol said. “Andrea will provide the necessary leadership to enable us to achieve our goal of developing the Michael Kors men’s wear business to $ 1 billion in revenue.”
The company declined to say how large the men’s business is today, but in the first-quarter earnings call in early August, Idol said that while men’s is “still small to the total company, it continues to grow.” He cited strength in logo sportswear “for Father’s Day gifting, particularly the Greenwich polo and our knit logo baseball jacket,” along with “refined pieces such

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Sanyo Partnering With Apolis Men’s Brand

Apolis, a socially conscious men’s brand, has inked a deal with Sanyo Shokai to expand the label’s presence in Japan as well as its product offering.
Sanyo will act as a partner, exclusive distributor and licensor for the brand and will oversee production and distribution starting with the spring/summer 2019 season.
As part of the deal, the Apolis e-commerce site will be relaunched, a flagship store will open in Tokyo, the brand will add women’s wear and its men’s wear offering will be expanded.
Creative director Raan Parton will partner with the Sanyo team to design the product, which will be manufactured in the Japanese company’s factories in that country along with Apolis’ network of global artisans rounding out the production.
Collections will be produced globally and will continue to adhere to Apolis’ sustainable standards and environmental conscientiousness. The brand was certified as a B Impact Corporation in 2012, a designation for businesses that meet the highest standards of verified social and environmental performance, public transparency, and legal accountability to balance profit and purpose.
Isao Iwata, president, representative director and chief operating officer of Sanyo, called Apolis “an early adopter of sustainable practices and socially aware production. Sanyo has also been a company with a

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Christopher Bates to Sell Men’s Collection to Nordstrom in Canada

Canadian men’s designer Christopher Bates will be celebrating his 10th anniversary with a runway show Tuesday night during Toronto Fashion Week at the same time he reveals a deal with Nordstrom as the brand’s exclusive department store partner in Canada.
“Spring/summer 2019 is by far one of my most technically advanced collections and having it launch with such an iconic retailer as Nordstrom is a dream come true,” said Bates.
The spring collection is inspired by vintage tennis and cycling wear and includes a focus on technical fabrics and modern tailoring. Each piece is created with luxury textiles from Italy and include 3-D textured bomber jackets, jersey travel blazers, colorful knitwear and lightweight jackets and coats.
In addition to ready-to-wear, Bates has a bespoke business, working with a master tailor in Toronto to produce suits, tuxedos, jackets and shirts. For five seasons, Bates has partnered with Canadian specialty retailer Harry Rosen on a shoe collection, which will be rolling out from four to 10 stores next year, and he is creating a line of sneakers in collaboration with MTV that will launch next month. He also produces a line of unisex eyewear. He was tapped to create the uniforms for Air Canada that some

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What to Watch: Men’s Market Grows Although Changes Abound

Men’s wear continues to make strides as guys from all walks of life prove that it’s not only women that care how they look.
From the red-hot streetwear market to suits with a slim modern fit — and technical attributes in everything — men continue to upgrade their wardrobes to keep up with the latest trends.
And it’s showing in the numbers.
Men’s wear is now estimated to represent 40 percent of the global apparel market and continues to grow. According to Euromonitor International, global sales of men’s wear increased 3.7 percent to $ 419 billion in 2017, outpacing women’s, which rose 3.4 percent to $ 643 billion.
In the U.S., sales hit $ 85 billion last year and are on track to rise 1.1 percent to over $ 86 billion this year, Euromonitor projected.
Other firms’ figures bear that out as well. According to Statista, retail sales of the men’s market in the U.S. were $ 62.1 billion in 2013 and are projected to hit nearly $ 75 billion this year.
And NPD Group said for the six months ended June 2018, total men’s apparel sales rose 3 percent to $ 29 billion with active bottoms and knit shirts gaining in popularity while dress shirts and woven shirts declined. For the second

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Flagpole Enters Men’s Swim

Megan Balch and Jaime Barker, who cofounded Flagpole in 2013, are known for their sporty, brightly colored women’s swimwear sold at retailers including Shopbop and Barneys New York, but they always had the men’s category in mind.
“Flagpole is the name of the beach we grew up on,” said Balch. “But before we even had sketches or drawings, we always knew we wanted to have a unisex name to accommodate for men’s.”
According to Balch, they’ve spent two years working on the men’s collection, which includes two silhouettes: the Luke short, a hybrid swim and travel short; and the Dave trunk, a classic swimsuit. The Luke short is made from a quick-drying fabric with pockets and an interior adjustable drawstring. They retail for $ 225. The Dave trunk has a slim fit and is also made from a quick-drying fabric but has an elastic waistband. It retails for $ 185.
“Since our launch, a lot of men have reached out saying that they resonate with our clean, modern and functional aesthetic,” said Balch. “What they wanted boiled down to two things: a classic cut and ultimate comfort.”
They are opting for a direct-to-consumer distribution with men’s in order to get feedback from consumers.
“It’s hard to get

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Men’s Continues to Gain Ground as Sales Increase

LAS VEGAS — Men’s wear represents 40 percent of the global apparel market and continues to grow both in popularity and penetration for most retailers. With that experience as the backdrop, merchants shopping the shows here earlier this week were in upbeat spirits as they scoured the aisles for the latest trend-right product to fuel that men’s wear momentum heading into next year.
Christine Wu, senior trend analyst for the Doneger Group, said the men’s wear market is projected to increase to $ 33 billion in sales by 2020, up 14 percent from $ 29 billion in 2015, the most recent figure available from Euromonitor International. Among the most popular categories are activewear-inspired pieces that offer performance and technology attributes, as well as streetwear, both at the designer and more democratically priced level.
Patty Leto, senior vice president of merchandising for Doneger, said that in order to sustain the strong showing, retailers have to reach men on their own terms and provide a “targeted and more personal approach to the assortment.” This will require a “necessary recalibration” of the business.
But because men’s wear doesn’t move that quickly, that recalibration will boil down to subtle updates of the current trends, notably nostalgia, outdoor lifestyle and

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Movers and Shakers in the Men’s E-commerce Space

Don’t tell these companies that men don’t shop online.
There are now a slew of men’s wear-focused e-tailers offering everything from designer clothing to socks, underwear to streetwear. While some of these businesses have become household names and others are still flying under the radar, all of them have managed to make their mark. They’ve also attracted some big bucks from outside investors, a key indicator that they’re doing something right.
Here, a closer look at some of the major players and their businesses.
Black Tux
Primary business: Tuxedo and suit rentals
Backstory: The Los Angeles-based company was founded in 2013 by longtime friends Andrew Blackmon and Patrick Coyne, who saw an opportunity to improve the traditional tuxedo and suit rental process. Often referred to as the Rent the Runway for guys, the Black Tux has raised $ 60 million in funding since it started, the most recent round coming in March when TZP Group — along with Stripes Group, Menlo Ventures and Raine Ventures — came through with $ 30 million the company said it would use to add more warehouse space. A facility opened in Pennsylvania earlier this year.
Reach: In addition to its own e-commerce site and six of its own showrooms, the company

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A Female Olympian Who Models Men’s Clothing

Casey Legler, a former Olympic swimmer, recounts her unlikely rise and fall in a new memoir, “Godspeed.” And that’s only half the story.
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Men’s Spring 2019: Flying Colors

The men’s collections for spring skew young, vibrant — and very spiffy. A plethora of tailored elements mingle with explosive color and touches of Nineties raver.

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SportChek – Men’s & Women’s Select Casual Tops, Tees, Shorts and Dresses Clearance Up To 40% Off at SportChek! Offer ends 8/9/18. Shop Now!

Men’s & Women’s Select Casual Tops, Tees, Shorts and Dresses Clearance* Up To 40% Off. *Our original price. Select brands and styles. Not all clearance priced items and price points available at all locations. Selection may vary by location. Order must be completed by August 9, 2018 to qualify.
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Expire: 2018-08-09 00:00:00
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Top Men’s Trends for Spring 2019

First came dad sneakers — and now the so-uncool-they’re-cool jeans to match.

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Theory Men’s Spring 2019

Well-known for his take on creating timeless wardrobe pieces with a cool minimalistic twist, Theory’s Martin Andersson’s spring collection keeps building on the same principles it has for the few past seasons: mobility and innovation. 
“We asked ourselves, who is the Theory guy, and concluded that he’s into travel,” Andersson said at the brand’s spring presentation.
A capsule collection focusing on the idea of mobility and travel — packable seam-sealed blazers, travel Mac coats, water-resistant shirts and even a tracksuit — were all designed to be worn from the office straight to the airport.
Andersson has a knack for giving wardrobe staples a cool, minimalist élan via color and cut. His spring palette spanned forest greens, navy, khaki and bright pops of electric yellow and pink that were inspired from Dan Flavin’s light installations at Dia: Beacon.
A standout were the khaki pieces, such as khaki chinos with a contrast waistband paired with a bright pink sweater — a perfect blend of casual and sporty.

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Men’s Spring 2019 Trend: Get Smart

Dressing up again — in easy, laid-back tailoring — was a key message of the men’s shows, and a riposte to the streetwear juggernaut.

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Eidos Men’s Spring 2019

It’s a new day for Eidos.
The “younger cousin” of Italian luxury brand Isaia showcased its first full spring collection designed by Simon Spurr, who named creative director of the line last November, at an event at its Madison Square office Tuesday night. The lineup was called — appropriately — Contrast, which spoke to Spurr’s seamless integration of the company’s Neapolitan tailoring roots with what he described as “undertones of British punk.”
The English-born Spurr said, “Each season there will be a tailoring spine and then I’ll wrap something around the tailoring.”
This time around, that translated into Hawaiian-printed short-sleeve shirts, pink fringed suede jackets, indigo tie-dye jean jackets and Breton striped linen sweaters. Even the windowpane patterned suits were modernized. “We’ve done them in a younger way, printed them, they’re a little more graphic,” he said. Ditto for the silhouette, which was slim and youthful.
Isaia launched Eidos as a stand-alone brand in 2013, but Spurr’s addition has managed to elevate the label with an international point of view.

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Sundae School Men’s Spring 2019

What is smokewear? According to Dae Lim, who designs Sundae School, it’s a category of clothing that’s not confined to weed smokers but supportive of recreational weed smoking in subtle and overt ways.
Lim grew up in Seoul, where marijuana usage is still illegal, but came to the U.S. 11 years ago and was introduced to it as a teen. After studying math at Harvard, he joined McKinsey & Co. as a consultant but decided that wasn’t the environment for him and got a job at VFiles as the head of growth. He used his resources there to create Sundae School, which is a year old and started out with mostly graphic T-shirts and dad hats emblazoned with stoner puns. But for his spring 2019 collection, he expanded on his original proposition with a proper apparel collection that’s titled Ddul-Sunbi — ddul is a slang term teens in Korea use for weed and sunbi means scholar.
He imagined a world where scholars explored weed and collaborated with South Korean illustrator Yeonbun on a graphic depicting that scenario. He also looked to hanbok, traditional Korean dress, to present a neutral lineup of casual but refined clothing. Models wore mostly leisure suits that consisted of lightweight poly jackets with tie

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Gustav von Aschenbach Men’s Spring 2019

In its third season, Robert Geller’s Gustav von Aschenbach seems to be finally developing its own identity.
Although a younger and more fun offshoot of the designer’s main line, the collection still has Geller’s signature, with its traditional boxy silhouettes, washed cotton fabrics and saturated tones.
But G.V.A., as the line is now being called, has more of a streetwear edge. The use of logos, slogans and appliquéd photographs spoke to Geller’s love of Swiss graphic design and typography — as evidenced by the word Basel used on garments throughout.
“The G.V.A. kid is evolving into a young artist, who expresses himself through individualistic, self-confident clothes,” Geller said.
Some of this artistic expression shone through in a creative casting mix of models and New York street dancers that added a jolt of energy and fun to the show.
Among the highlights was an array of light outerwear, from trenchcoats and cropped field jackets to utility varsities. Embellished with the graphic details, these became one-of-a-kind pieces.
Geller’s ability to create a younger alter-ego allows him to channel trendier and more of-the-now pieces. But coupled with his more romantic and mature Robert Geller collection, these two sides of his personality seem perfectly aligned.

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Nick Graham Men’s Spring 2019

Nick Graham’s space odyssey continued for spring with a collection titled “1969.” He called it “one of the most transformational years in our history, a year that had both the first landing on the moon by Apollo 11 and also Woodstock, both of which were pretty transformative events in our culture.”
A rocket-shaped 1959 Cadillac Cyclone concept car — the only one made and dispatched from the company’s archives in Detroit — was parked on the runway and served as the perfect backdrop for the zesty show.
It opened with a troupe of boys dancing in “Martian in Training” T-shirts, followed by a parade of traditional sartorial clothing that was super fitted to the body with cropped blazers and tapered pants. Metallic bomber jackets with NASA logos set the tone for an array of intergalactic references that included alien faces printed on shirts and atomic symbols on the breast pockets of suit jackets.
In addition to the suits— which were offered in colorful, shiny solids and exaggerated men’s wear classic patterns — Graham introduced a lot more casualwear, including logo hoodies and sweat pants.
Although Graham’s obsession with space travel is nothing new, it continues to provide a fun story line and an uplifting

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Nihl Men’s Spring 2019

In his New York show, Neil Grotzinger of Nihl, the LVMH Prize finalist, broke traditional rules of masculinity with a collection that centered around bending the rules of those in authority.
He took police officers, football players and Wall Street brokers and turned their wardrobes on their head by “exploring the qualities of borderline ephemerality and downright queerness,” according to the liner notes.

A clear example was a pair of football pants made from fine white silk he paired with a handmade chain mail tank top. An authentic crinkled painter’s tarp — black on one side, green on the other with drawstrings included — was reinterpreted as pants and a top.

Grotzinger’s use of elaborate embroidery techniques appeared as embellishments on several pieces, including the sleeves of sheer tops and a sliced-open basketball short.

The use of revealing cutouts and jock straps throughout the collection added a level of eroticism while enhancing the masculinity of the offering.

“The concepts of masculinity can be very restrictive and I like to break the conformity of that,” Grotzinger said.

In this debut, Grotzinger gained a lot of attention by breaking the rules — in the right way.

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Jahnkoy Men’s Spring 2019

Maria Jahnkoy, whose real name is Maria Kazakova, is Siberian and studied at Central Saint Martins and Parsons, has received a lot of support from the industry with her brand narrative, which is centered on preserving traditional craftsmanship and reworking it for a new generation.
She was shortlisted for the 2017 LVMH Prize and has found fans in consultant Julie Gilhart and Bruce Pask, the men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. Kazakova also has the support of Puma, Swarovski and the CFDA’s Elaine Gold Launch Pad program.
Her goal has always been to connect larger companies with local artisans, but with the extra help she’s been able to expand on that and bring more makers from Brooklyn and India into the mix. The show, which was more like a theatrical art project, was a collective effort as well. Titled “Deceived: No More,” the performance explored how the fashion industry impacts cultural identity. The presentation, which was choreographed by Nathan Trice, was broken up into three parts: chaos, unification and order. Much like her previous presentations, she made the runway mimic a chaotic city street that was dotted with orange cones and caution signs — one read “Separation is No

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Abasi Rosborough Men’s Spring 2019

In their sophomore showing during New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough explored a desert phantom theme that referenced a variety of vanishing cultures and tribes.
The design duo paraded a diverse range, from kimono-inspired jackets and coats and fitted cargo pants to Navajo-printed parkas. The color palette included deep burgundies and burnt orange that brought an Eastern sensibility to the forefront, while a flowing white section telegraphed the desert inspiration. “We even looked at ‘Lawrence of Arabia,’” Rosborough noted.
A wrinkled cotton hybrid poncho with matching head scarf and an ethereal topcoat in the same fabric also drove the desert theme home. Likewise, a Tencel linen that was frayed to look old — employed for bomber jackets and coats — reinforced that worn-in traveler vibe.
With this effort, Abasi Rosborough continues to make its mark in men’s fashion. “We’ve seen an exodus of big designers this week, but we look at it as an opportunity for new designers to step forward,” Rosborough said.

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Head of State Men’s Spring 2019

For his first runway show, Nigerian-born designer Taofeek Abijako, took inspiration from Afrofuturism and paraded a lineup with a distinct Seventies feel. 
Cue an array of high-waisted cropped and flared pants, fitted sweatshirts and message T-shirts.
The standouts were the flared pants, worn with matching boots, which gave it a New York Seventies vibe. 
Head of State is now part of Groupe, a distribution umbrella formed by James and Gwendolyn Jurney of Seize sur Vingt, which manages and nurtures independent designers and brands. Abijako was the first brand chosen, allowing him to focus strictly on creating the collection while Groupe provides the funding for samples and production.     

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Bode Men’s Spring 2019

Aaron Aujla, owner of Green River Project, a furniture and interiors firm, was Emily Bode’s primary reference point this season. She met Aujla in New York and they’ve previously worked together on other projects. (He’s created all of the furniture for Bode’s presentations.)
For her collection, Bode drew from Aujla’s lineage. His family is from India, but he grew up in British Columbia. Bode has always outsourced her embroidery and embellishment work in India, but this season she worked with more Indian textiles that had historical significance. She made suits from Khadi towels, an Indian fabric and developed another suit from India’s government subsidized mill prints.
Bode said the Khadi fabric has a connection to Mahatma Gandhi’s self-reliance movement, which urged Indians to bring weaving back into the home as opposed to buying these goods from other countries.
Highlights included a white fringed button-up shirt made of chenille, a pair of floral print high-waisted pants constructed from curtain fabric, and a bright yellow matching set printed with a village motif that consisted of a crepe de chine shirt and duchesse-satin pants.
The furniture was influenced by Indian filmmaker Satyajit Ray’s 1966 “Nayak,” which was filmed on a train, and each of the pieces were

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Ricardo Seco Men’s Spring 2019

The 50th anniversary of the Mexico City Olympics served as the jumping off point for Ricardo Seco’s spring men’s collection.

The designer used stripes and optical illusions along with the late Sixties font and Olympics rings to pay homage to the 1968 Games. These graphics showed up in bombers, T-shirts and track pants that Seco reimagined in bright colors or vibrant black and white.

More contemporary visual elements such as cell phones and skates were used as accents inside jackets while the current immigration crisis was referenced by large DACA lettering on T-shirts and socks. Seco also went back to the beginning of the Black Power movement by using the now-famous fist symbol on tops.

The overall vibe of the collection felt upbeat despite the political references.

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Reconstruct Collective Men’s Spring 2019

Reconstruct Collective, consisting of five female designers, began out of necessity. After learning that the Willem de Kooning Academy wasn’t able to put on a fashion show for its graduating class, students banded together to organize their own show. And in order to raise money for the show, they needed to form a business with the chamber of commerce. Because they worked so well together, Laura Aanen, Alyssa Groeneveld, Kim Kivits, Michelle Lievaart and Sanne Verkleij decided to start a collective shortly after graduating. Now three collections in, the Amsterdam-based company opted to show in New York, which Groeneveld said made sense for the brand, which caters to the youth.
For spring the unisex line was based on a fictional place called Planet Re-4 and the fictional characters that live there. The lineup, which Groeneveld said falls between streetwear and couture, was made up of reconstructions of sporty pieces. They presented cropped bubble vests and matching miniskirts, wide-leg nylon pants decorated with multiple drawstrings or reflective material, cropped tank tops with the Re-4 logo and jackets made from strips of fabric. The waistbands displayed a graphic Reconstruct logo. They also reconfigured Converse tracksuits and pieces from The New Originals, an Amsterdam-based

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Public School Men’s Spring 2019

Call it Public School part two.
On the final night of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, the streetwear-skewed brand held a party and presentation at a space on Howard Street in Chinatown with its theme kept under wraps until the doors opened.
“This is our space,” said Dao-Yi Chow, who designs the label with Maxwell Osborne. “This will be our first retail store and this is a soft launch of the space.”
Throughout the location were mannequins dressed in the new collection — although Chow said the description “needs an asterisk by ‘new.’ Everything is recycled, upcycled or dead stock,” he said, and is intended to represent our new philosophy.”
While the philosophy may be new, the lineup revisited the duo’s greatest hits.
They revisited collaborations with like-minded brands including Eileen Fisher, whose dead-stock silks became striped pajama-inspired ensembles; Levi’s, whose vintage denim was reworked into cropped trucker jackets, and Alpha Industries military fabrics made into sleek outerwear.
“It’s very much the foundation and our past and then looking into the future,” Osborne added.
The collection reflected that with a clear example being a supersharp black suit with built-in cargo pockets and statement zippers. A short-sleeve jumpsuit — also part of their DNA — was so elegant

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Todd Snyder Men’s Spring 2019

Todd Snyder closed New York Fashion Week: Men’s on a high note, sending out a feel-good collection full of bright colors and a youthful attitude that he titled “The American Tourist.”
“I played a lot with a mix of sartorial and campy references,” he said backstage before the show, where truffle popcorn and beer was served.
The opening look set the tone for the collection: a yellow T-shirt with a photo of a Waffle House that was taken by folk rocker Gerry Beckley of the group America. A series, all shot by the musician, are to make their debut for spring.
Snyder, the king of collaborations, unveiled other partnerships at the show including a line of terry-cloth bucket hats with Kangol, high-top tie-dye sneakers with Novesta, and perhaps the most striking, archival Hawaiian prints from Reyn Spooner that he used most successfully on an updated suit. “It’s the modern leisure suit,” he said.
His longtime partnership with Champion was also on display in bomber jackets, paneled sweatshirts and underwear. It even appeared as a side stripe on a plaid patterned suit.
Another play on the Americana theme came with the introduction of a new logo — “Snyder’s” in retro block letters — that he used

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The Cons and Pros of Shrunken NYFW: Men’s

Good riddance July. Now American men’s designers can only hope things get better next June.
Todd Snyder wrapped up the spring 2019 edition of New York Fashion Week: Men’s on Wednesday night with an upbeat show that embraced America — and proved to be one of the handful of shows that could legitimately compete with those in London, Florence, Milan or Paris. Otherwise, the three-day affair continued to be devoid of most of American fashion’s major names and was a haphazard mix of shows and presentations that often lacked energy, generated little buzz and continued to raise questions over where New York fits into the men’s calendar.
But the Council of Fashion Designers of America, the organizer, is hoping to resuscitate things next summer when it moves the show dates to align with women’s resort in early June — before the London men’s shows start.
Holding the men’s and women’s shows at the same time worked well for the men’s brands in February when the CFDA staged a successful 10-day dual-gender fashion week, with the men’s-only or men’s-heavy brands kicking off the week. That’s the plan for this coming February as well.
And although the June women’s resort shows are not as established as

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Romeo Hunte Men’s Spring 2019

Romeo Hunte didn’t make any friends in his men’s runway debut in New York. His choice of a site away from the other venues and the complete chaos in the lobby of the Dream Downtown Hotel with hundreds of people attempting to access elevators to get to the rooftop site was bad enough. The fact that his team couldn’t get its act together to start his show until nearly an hour after it was planned had everyone eyeing the exits before the first look came out.
Once the show finally started, it was clear that Hunte had an underwater sports adventure as his overriding theme. He used neoprene from diving wetsuits that he reimagined as performance vests in bright colors and cropped jackets with exaggerated necklines.

Camo prints in cargo pants and bombers and the use of safety orange enhanced the streetwear flair. But while the line showed some promise, there were several missteps, including poorly executed tailoring and some unfortunate sequined embellished sweatshirts. But apart from that, the collection was youthful and carefree.

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Anderson beats Isner in epic men’s semifinal

Kevin Anderson defeated John Isner 26-24 in the fifth set to reach the Wimbledon final against either Rafael Nadal or Novak Djokovic.

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#HeToo? A Fight for Men’s Rights, in California Courts

Ladies’ nights, career seminars and paternity fraud are all on the docket.
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Ted Baker to Introduce Men’s Underwear, Lounge, Sleep

Ted Baker is entering the innerwear category.
The apparel company, which is based in London, has signed a five-year licensing agreement with Delta Galil to develop, produce and distribute men’s innerwear.
“I am delighted to collaborate with Delta Galil as Ted’s exclusive underwear and loungewear partner,” said Ricky Green, global wholesale director at Ted Baker. “We’re excited to introduce the collection to all markets and work together closely to develop the products.”
The collection will span men’s underwear, loungewear and thermal base layers and pajama sets and will launch in spring 2019.
“Ted Baker is well-known for its high-quality fabrics and distinctive designs, and we are very excited to partner with the brand and expand it into new categories,” said Isaac Dabah, chief executive officer of Delta Galil. “This partnership represents a significant opportunity for Delta Galil to grow its global portfolio of premium brands, as Ted Baker’s elevated apparel resonates with men across the world.”
Ted Baker currently operates 21 other licensing agreements that include fragrance, homewares and tailoring.

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Death to Tennis Men’s Spring 2019

Summertime was the prevailing theme for William Watson and Vincent Oshin, the duo behind Death to Tennis. The designers, who are both British, were feeling nostalgic and a bit homesick so they looked to old beachside photographs to inform their lineup, which they said is one of their most colorful collections to date.
They leaned into the old and new, utilizing a color palette consisting of royal blue, purple, yellow, olive red and navy that brought to mind Ralph Lauren and Cross Colours from the Nineties.
These colors lent new life to core items such as graphic T-shirts, hoodies and the McCarthy jacket, which Justin Bieber popularized. They showed these signatures alongside cargo pants with minimal pockets, boxy button-up shirts, cotton parkas and shirt jackets. A long, hooded, colorblocked parka that grazed the ground was a standout.
The suit or matching set was another primary component. Models wore tracksuits, relaxed cotton suits and boxy shirts styled with slightly baggy pants. It was a nice take on tailored pieces that felt hip but not too trendy.
Death to Tennis is known for its original prints and this season it presented a camo pattern, a polo motif and a paint-splattered print.
Last season, the brand put on a

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Kenneth Nicholson Men’s Spring 2019

Kenneth Nicholson pulls from a varied bag of interests. The Houston native is as motivated by 18th-century dress as he is by outfits from “Soul Train” and military uniforms — after attending the Academy of Art in San Francisco, Nicholson spent a one-year stint in the Navy before he was honorably discharged. But his overall interest is in expanding the boundaries of men’s wear.
“Historically, men haven’t been restricted to just a shirt and pants. They’ve had more options,” Nicholson said. “I like to edify people and shake things up.”
He divided his collection into three chapters. The first chapter was a stark white, which Nicholson said was void of color to express sadness. Models wore cotton and linen long-sleeved shirtdresses with subtle swing hems, white lace shirts paired with cream high-waisted pants, and a brocade jacket with an exaggerated lapel coupled with a matching skirt. References to royalty were sprinkled throughout the lineup. Some models wore sashes, others wore crowns and a couple of the more structured, beaded looks with mock necks, nipped waists and peplums, which were highlights from the collection, brought to mind regalness.
The second chapter, which signaled better memories and featured more color, was the strongest. Nicholson doubled

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