SportChek – Men’s & Women’s Jackets min 40% Off at sportchek.com. Valid through 9/26. Shop Now!

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Begin: 2019-09-12 00:00:00
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SportChek – Men’s Clothing up to 50% Off at sportchek.com. Valid through 9/26. Shop Now!

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Begin: 2019-09-12 00:00:00
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SportChek – Men’s Clothing up to 50% Off at sportchek.com. Valid through 9/26. Shop Now!

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SportChek – Men’s Clothing up to 50% Off at sportchek.com. Valid through 9/26. Shop Now!

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SportChek – Men’s Clothing up to 50% Off at sportchek.com. Valid through 9/26. Shop Now!

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Begin: 2019-09-12 00:00:00
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SportChek – Men’s Clothing up to 50% Off at sportchek.com. Valid through 9/26. Shop Now!

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J.C. Penney to Open Men’s Outdoor Shops

J.C. Penney is turning its gaze to the outdoors.
The retailer will open an Outdoor Shop for men in 100 stores and online on Oct. 4. The shops will offer apparel from a new St. John’s Bay Outdoor private label as well as three new national sportswear brands: American Threads, The American Outdoorsman and Hi-Tec.
The shops will measure around 800 square feet and will be featured prominently within the men’s department, the retailer said. They will have modern fixtures, bold graphics and mannequins dressed to inspire adventure and exploration of the outdoors.
Their anchor will be St. John’s Bay Outdoor, which will include sweaters, jackets, vests, graphic T-shirts and woven shirts, with prices ranging from $ 11.99 to $ 44.99.
That collection will be offered in 600 stores and online beginning Thursday.
Other new brands include American Threads, which is centered around denim and workwear, that will be exclusive to Penney’s for fall. The assortment will include also quilted vests, sweaters and jackets.
The American Outdoorsman will offer knitwear, hoodies, vests, jackets and pants with waterproof pockets, moisture-wicking fabric, sun protection and quick dry properties.
Hi-Tec will offer shirts, pants, fleeces, vests and outerwear.
“As America spends more time outdoors, J.C. Penney is launching an entirely new outdoor category for men that delivers what he

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SportChek – Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Socks Buy One, Get One 50% Off at SportChek. Valid 8/29-9/12. Shop Now!

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Begin: 2019-08-29 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-09-12 23:00:00
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SportChek – Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Socks Buy One, Get One 50% Off at SportChek. Valid 8/29-9/12. Shop Now!

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Begin: 2019-08-29 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-09-12 23:00:00
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What to Watch: More Tailored Aesthetic Hitting Men’s Stores for Fall

Fall is coming, and with it, men will be leaving their shorts and flip-flops in the back of the closet — and this year reaching for a blazer.
Although streetwear and ath-leisurewear have been all the rage in the men’s market for the past few years, the pendulum has begun to swing back in the other direction. The first hint came during the fall runway shows in Europe last January when there was an undeniable shift toward a more dressed-up aesthetic. Those looks are just now hitting the retail floors, raising the spirits of merchants who have historically built their businesses on the back of men’s suits and sport coats.
Although their expectations are high, stores also realize they can’t just hang a sea of navy, black and gray suits interspersed with the occasional patterned sport coat on their floors any more and expect them to sell. Streetwear and activewear have had an indelible impact on the industry and men are not looking for their father’s — or even their grandfather’s — suits. Guys have gotten used to be being comfortable and they’re searching for features that will let them move while keeping them cool and dry.
Eric Jennings, the former men’s fashion

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What to Watch: Men’s Wear Online Sales Have Grip, Customers’ Habits Shift

What men want is the holy grail online retailers are trying to figure out in order to better cater to their male audience, which is evolving fast — and growing even faster.
According to market search firm Euromonitor International, global sales of men’s fashion, including apparel and footwear both online and off-line, are poised to generate revenues this year of $ 452.47 billion versus $ 440.24 billion in 2018, with sales in 2020 expected to climb to an estimated $ 473.86 billion.
Munich-based retailer Mytheresa is the latest to dive into the fray by kicking off a men’s section in January, while Moda Operandi entered the market last year. Mr Porter — launched in 2011 — introduced its own label, Mr P, in 2017 and Matchesfashion.com has been ramping up exclusive men’s wear drops and capsules with international luxury labels.
Customers’ rapidly changing purchasing habits and craving for fresh product are pushing online fashion destinations to constantly adapt in a bid to stay relevant.
“The men’s wear consumer is constantly evolving, he is far more sophisticated and braver in his style and online purchases than he used to be,” said Fiona Firth, buying director at Mr Porter.
“They are less risk averse and certainly quicker to purchase items.

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SportChek – Men’s Ripzone Pants Buy One, Get One 50% Off at Sport Chek. Valid 8/15-9/12. Shop Now!

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Begin: 2019-08-15 00:00:00
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Begin: 2019-08-15 00:00:00
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SportChek – Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Socks Buy One, Get One 50% Off at Sport Chek. Valid 8/15-8/29. Shop Now!

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Begin: 2019-08-15 00:00:00
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SportChek – Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Socks Buy One, Get One 50% Off at Sport Chek. Valid 8/15-8/29. Shop Now!

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Begin: 2019-08-15 00:00:00
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Begin: 2019-08-15 00:00:00
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Men’s Trend Spring 2020: Man as Muse

A new model of masculinity was on display at the men’s runway shows for spring as designers tapped into today’s tectonic cultural shifts to offer softer, more fluid and gender-bending styles, including pearls and handbags for men. It all generated an artistic vibe, as seen here in a Comme des Garçons coat with pleated sleeves and shorts suit.

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Begin: 2019-08-08 00:00:00
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Men’s Wearhouse Names Three New Execs to Management Team

Carrie Ask has assembled her team.
The president of the Men’s Wearhouse and Moores divisions of Tailored Brands Inc. today will announce three hires that are intended to drive the stores more profitably into the future. The two divisions have sales of around $ 2 billion and operate nearly 900 stores in the U.S. and Canada.
New to the team are Mary Ann McGrath, who has been named senior vice president and chief marketing officer; Jerry Brandehoff, senior vice president and general merchandise manager, and Sharmila Sudhakar, vice president, e-commerce.
Ask said this group of “proven and talented” professionals “have successfully transformed each of their respective business domains to drive significant profitable growth for leading companies. We look forward to benefiting from their experience and leadership as we transform our business to deliver an unparalleled customer experience through personalized products and services, inspiring and seamless experiences in and across every channel, and brands that stand for something more than just price.”
McGrath has more than 25 years of retail experience and served most recently as senior vice president of customer relationship marketing for Williams Sonoma, Williams Sonoma Home and West Elm. She has also worked at Gymboree, Escada and Saks Fifth Avenue. Frank Hamlin had

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Begin: 2019-08-08 00:00:00
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SportChek – Men’s & Women’s Tees 25% Off at SportChek.ca. Valid 8/8-8/15. Shop Now!

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Begin: 2019-08-08 00:00:00
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Begin: 2019-08-08 00:00:00
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Begin: 2019-08-08 00:00:00
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Begin: 2019-08-01 00:00:00
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Begin: 2019-08-01 00:00:00
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Begin: 2019-08-01 00:00:00
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Men’s Stores Are Changing the Rules of Retailing

NEW YORK — The rules of the game have changed and independent men’s specialty stores that have adapted to the new normal are on a winning streak.
Whether it’s a de-emphasis of traditional tailored clothing — long the bread and butter of independent retailers — or a dramatic shift in their vendor mix, the survivors have learned to navigate the current climate.
Many larger brands are opening their own stores — either brick-and-mortar or virtual — leaving independents hard-pressed to compete. And customers searching the Internet to compare prices on commonly found labels has also prompted stores to look elsewhere.
“We’re finally at a tipping point,” said Ken Giddon, president of Rothman’s. “The relationship between retailers and vendors has to be reworked. Retailers are waking up to the fact that things have to change. They can’t keep their heads in the sand anymore on pricing.”
He wasn’t alone. Mike Zack, owner of Circa 2000 in Plano, Tex., has been banging the same drum for a while now. “It’s a whole new world today,” he said. “We’re completely changing our vendor structure and have gotten rid of most of the big brands like Peter Millar and Tommy Bahama. I’m taking my ball to a new

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Rolling Stones Get Gig at Bergdorf Goodman Men’s Store

You can’t always get what you want, but can get what you need — and them some — at the Rolling Stones retail experience at Bergdorf Goodman.
While the Rolling Stones might not seem like an obvious brand partner for Bergdorf’s, the British band’s red and black tongue and lips logo looms large on the facade of the men’s store, where the concept, featuring limited-edition collections for the band’s fans, will operate through Aug. 13. The pop-up retail experience will then travel with the Rolling Stones’ “No Filter” tour to Pasadena and Miami, where there will be follow-up installations at Maxfield in Los Angeles and Alchemist in Miami.
Bravado, Universal Music Group’s merchandise and brand management company, partnered with Bergdorf’s to create the concept. The pop-up has a strong fashion pedigree. Bergdorf’s tapped Sarah Andelman, cofounder of Colette, the now-defunct Parisian retailer, who culled resources through her consulting and curating company, Just an Idea. Andelman assembled a collection of disparate brands, united by their affinity for the Rolling Stones.
Visitors to the third floor of the men’s store will see two larger-than-life 8-foot-tall, 600-pound tongues that celebrate the Rolling Stones’ return to the U.S. after the European and U.K. No Filter tour closed

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Begin: 2019-07-28 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-08-10 23:00:00
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SportChek – Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Nike Clothing, Bags, Shoes & Equipment 25% Off at Sport Chek. Valid 7/28-8/10. Shop Now!

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Begin: 2019-07-28 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-08-10 23:00:00
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SportChek – Men’s & Women’s Hoodies, Tees, Shorts & Pants BOGO 50% Off at Sport Chek. Valid 7/25-8/1. Shop Now!

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Code: No Code
Begin: 2019-07-25 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-08-01 23:00:00
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Willy Chavarria Men’s Spring 2020

Sex, love, glamour and immigration.
All these hot topics, mixed with masculine queer culture, set the tone for Willy Chavarria’s runway return to New York — and boy, was he missed.
Known for his Chicano heritage vibes, Chavarria’s former stint in the Nineties, the creation of “The Love Garage,” a club in San Fransisco that embraced rave culture and gritty house music, served as one of the key components of his take on what minimalism can mean.
In this case, the usually big, oversize silhouette that has defined Chavarria took a sophisticated turn that still managed to maintain a tough edge.

The first portion of the show showcased standouts such as a black washed satin robe with matching shorts, along with an array of flared and high-waisted denim numbers, often paired with souvenir jackets or matching oversize boxy shirts. Quilted leather handbags, an item typically associated with high luxury, adorned most of the models, along with black and gold chains used as necklaces, belts and handbags, which provided a refined touch.
Part two featured a collaboration with athletic brand K-Swiss: a Nineties California Chicano tennis prep collection — oversize pastels in blue and pink with a bit of neon that enhanced sweatshirts, baggy shorts and

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Begin: 2019-07-25 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-08-01 23:00:00
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Simon G. Jewelry Sees Growth Potential in Men’s

Simon G. Jewelry began dabbling in the men’s business about five years ago. Now it’s ready to go full force with the launch of its first men’s collection this fall.
The Glendale, Calif.-based company, which got its start in bridal, first began exploring what it could offer men beyond wedding bands by testing larger bands, and saw strong interest.
“What we came to find several years ago is that a lot of the men who were purchasing jewelry for their soon-to-be wife and even some of the same-sex couples purchasing from us, were interested in bands as opposed to just engagement rings,” said vice president of marketing and communications Brooke Brinkman, who is overseeing the men’s division. “Our men’s band business took off. As we study SEO, we’re seeing there’s a great deal of search for men’s jewelry.”
The company, when looking at January through June of this year, saw unique sessions to the landing page for men’s rings jump 1,355.27 percent from the same period last year. Sessions for men’s bracelets were up 77.27 percent for the same six-month time frame this year compared with last year.
Simon G. has built a business around 18-karat and fine platinum, giving the company’s executive team

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Begin: 2019-07-25 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-08-01 23:00:00
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Begin: 2019-07-25 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-08-01 23:00:00
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Rolling Stones Get Gig at Bergdorf Goodman Men’s Store

You can’t always get what you want, but can get what you need — and them some — at the Rolling Stones retail experience at Bergdorf Goodman.
While the Rolling Stones might not seem like an obvious brand partner for Bergdorf’s, the British band’s red and black tongue and lips logo looms large on the facade of the men’s store, where the concept, featuring limited-edition collections for the band’s fans, will operate through Aug. 13. The pop-up retail experience will then travel with the Rolling Stones’ “No Filter” tour to Pasadena and Miami, where there will be follow-up installations at Maxfield in Los Angeles and Alchemist in Miami.
Bravado, Universal Music Group’s merchandise and brand management company, partnered with Bergdorf’s to create the concept. The pop-up has a strong fashion pedigree. Bergdorf’s tapped Sarah Andelman, cofounder of Colette, the now-defunct Parisian retailer, who culled resources through her consulting and curating company, Just an Idea. Andelman assembled a collection of disparate brands, united by their affinity for the Rolling Stones.
Visitors to the third floor of the men’s store will see two larger-than-life 8-foot-tall, 600-pound tongues that celebrate the Rolling Stones’ return to the U.S. after the European and U.K. No Filter tour closed

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Begin: 2019-07-11 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-07-25 23:00:00
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Begin: 2019-07-11 00:00:00
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Begin: 2019-07-11 00:00:00
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Begin: 2019-07-11 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-07-25 23:00:00
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Men’s Denim Brand Monfrère Expands to U.K.

Los Angeles-based men’s brand Monfrère aims to make its upscale denim the go-to wardrobe piece for day and night, and it’s quickly expanding.
The three-year-old business is now in Selfridges, marking its expansion to the U.K., and has a contract with a Korean distributor, which the company expects will help its presence in the Asian market grow over the next six to 12 months.
Monfrère is sold in 55 doors, including Barneys New York and Bergdorf Goodman, and was cofounded by Sean Rudes — whose father Jeffrey Rudes started J Brand with Susie Crippen — along with Steven Dann. The founder of his namesake men’s shop in New York, Dann is also Sean Rudes’ brother-in-law.
“Sean and I were really discussing denim fits and what we were looking to purchase and wear and both of us had the same requirements,” Dann said of the company’s start.
The two wanted comfortable denim that fit well and could be worn with a T-shirt and sneakers and just as easily transition to a look with a sports jacket. The two scoured the market looking for a brand that fit their requirements, but didn’t turn up anything in line with the description. That was when they said they

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Begin: 2019-07-11 00:00:00
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Begin: 2019-07-11 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-07-25 23:00:00
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Begin: 2019-07-11 00:00:00
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EXCLUSIVE: Aitor Throup Announces Upcoming New Men’s Label

Aitor Throup is gearing up to debut a men’s wear label, WWD has learned.
The Buenos Aires-born and Burnley, England-raised designer, known for his highly conceptualized fashion, said this project marks “the biggest thing I’ve ever worked on, I’m nearing the completion of my vision, which has been 15 years in the making, and I’m near the end of it.”
The new men’s brand, the name of which is being kept under wraps, will make its debut later this year before fully seeing the light in 2020.
Throup, who had served as G-Star’s executive creative director overseeing the men’s and women’s mainline ranges and the Raw Research men’s line since 2016, last year parted ways amicably with the Amsterdam-based label co-owned by Pharrell Williams.
Prior to his appointment at G-Star, Throup had launched his conceptual men’s label New Object Research, which debuted on the London Fashion Week: Men’s calendar in 2013. In 2016 the designer hosted a performance-presentation hybrid in a deconsecrated church in Marylebone.
The men’s label blending fashion, design and the arts paved the way for the development of the new project debuting this year. “New Object Research was a part of this process, this exploration that has allowed me to develop a

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Saks Re-creates Men’s Footwear Department at Flagship

Saks Fifth Avenue’s $ 250 million-plus grand renovation project is finally turning its attention to men’s.
Later this week, the store will take the wraps off a new men’s footwear department that it boasts will be one of the largest luxury shoe destinations in the country.
The 8,000-square-foot space unites shoes in one central location on the sixth floor in an area that has 60 percent more selling space. It will offer 2,000 stock-keeping units  from 60 brands — 15 of which are new to the store — and 160 exclusives, as well as other amenities such as shoe repair stations, extended sizes and personalization stations.
“We know how to build a category-dominant business,” said Marc Metrick, president of Saks. Metrick had been head of planning for Saks and chief merchant Tracy Margolies was vice president of women’s footwear more than a decade ago when they worked together to create Saks’ successful 10022-Shoe women’s floor.
“Twelve years ago, we built an amazing destination,” Margolies said of the women’s floor, one that offers up a “fun and social experience. There’s no reason not to re-create the same thing for men.”
She said when the management team sat down and talked about redeveloping the New York store, they

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Britain’s John Lewis Revamps Offer, Puts Urban Spin on Men’s Wear

LONDON — British department store John Lewis & Partners, where customers can find everything from lamps and frying pans to flat-screen TVs and computers, is putting a fresh spin on men’s wear in a bid to speak to multiple generations, street and sneaker devotees and necktie-free urbanites.
The retail stalwart, which also owns the upmarket supermarket chain Waitrose, has held relatively steady in the crisis that is sweeping the British high street. The store continues to invest in its store real estate, own-brand merchandise, staff training and has been swinging the spotlight onto own brand and exclusive products that customers cannot buy anywhere else.
It’s a tough time for British brick-and-mortar clothing retailers in particular. They’re falling victim to online competition, fast-fashion and streetwear competitors, as well as luxury brands keen to woo younger shoppers with entry-price merchandise such as sneakers and T-shirts.
Marks & Spencer is a prime example of the struggle so many are facing: On Thursday the retailer said in a terse statement that its managing director of clothing and home, Jill McDonald, was leaving the business after two years.
M&S clothing has been struggling for some time, a victim of long-standing supply chain and sizing issues and of a younger

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Rag & Bone’s Mashed-up Men’s Spring Collection

Marcus Wainwright is feeling twisted these days.
For the spring men’s collection, Wainwright, the founder and chief brand officer of Rag & Bone, “mashed things up” by taking the brand’s key pieces and updating them to appeal to a street and sports fan.
Wainwright said the collection just returned to New York after being shown to buyers in Europe, where it received a strong reception from retailers.
“Our men’s business is really strong,” he said. “Men’s in general is having a prolonged moment and ours is very stable and growing nicely.”
But what customers were clamoring for, he said, was “more fashion.” Not over-the-top trendy items, but pieces that “push the line and the tenets of the brand,” he said.
So for spring Wainwright answered the call by designing “a more twisted Rag & Bone,” he said during a walkthrough of the line at the company’s Meatpacking District showroom in Manhattan. “Every season we go back to workwear, British tailoring and military references but we’re also bringing in sports elements.”
Case in point: part of the spring offering was “very loosely inspired by tennis from the 1920s onward,” Wainwright said, pointing to a collection of sweaters with V-neck ribbing and other details specific to the sport.
Other

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Attendance Up at Paris Men’s Shows as French Aura Grows

PARIS — Paris men’s wear and coed trade shows saw a rise in international buyer attendance as the French capital bolsters its position as the global epicenter of men’s fashion.
“Paris has become stronger for the past couple of seasons, because everything is concentrated in the same week, compared to New York, where you have fashion week, then market week. There’s no umbrella unifying everyone there,” said Antoine Floch, cofounder and director of the Man/Woman trade show, which stages a New York edition.
The event reported an increase in overall attendance at the Paris spring 2020 shows, held in three locations around the Place Vendôme, spanning men’s, coed and women’s pre-collections.
Combining trade shows and showrooms with the official Paris Fashion Week calendar at the end of June is more practical for buyers, who come to Man/Woman between fashion shows, said Floch. “It’s a real strength to have that level of high-quality buyers,” he noted, reporting an uptick in American buyers, as well as more brands choosing to exhibit in Paris over New York this season.
Tranoï also saw an increase in attendance from major international and Japanese retailers, though overall attendance dipped in comparison to last year. The show’s central location at the Palais

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Men’s Spring 2020 Trend: Pastel Path

Strongly associated with Easter — and the Eighties — pastels made major inroads at the European men’s shows for spring 2020. At Louis Vuitton, men’s artistic director Virgil Abloh opened and closed his outdoor display with a range of loose tailoring and sportswear in dusty shades.

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Derrill Osborn, Former Men’s Fashion Director for Neiman’s, Dies in Dallas

Derrill Radcliff Osborn, the flamboyant former men’s fashion director for Neiman Marcus, died in his Dallas home Monday night. He was 76.
The cause is not known at this time, but his death was confirmed by Nelson Bell, a pastor at the Highland Park Presbyterian Church. Bell said Osborn, who had been ill for some time, had planned his own service and a date for the memorial will be set shortly.
Osborn was descended from pioneers and ranchers who settled in New Mexico. After serving in the U.S. Army, he started his retail career working at Saks Fifth Avenue in 1964. In the decade he was employed there, he worked his way up from a salesman to a buyer. Osborn also served briefly as general manager of the Lew Ritter men’s specialty store in Beverly Hills before joining Neiman Marcus, where he worked as a buyer for six years before being named vice president of men’s tailored clothing. He retired from Neiman’s in 2002.
Osborn, who was known for his flashy personal style — flowing capes, bowler hats, carnations in his lapel and his ubiquitous beard and mustache — had an unerring eye for fashion that helped put Neiman’s men’s store on the

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Derrill Osborn, Neiman’s Former Men’s Fashion Director, Dies

Derrill Radcliff Osborn, the legendary men’s fashion director for Neiman Marcus, has died in Dallas, according to multiple posts on Facebook late Monday night.
No further details are known at this time, but his death was confirmed by Nelson Bell, a pastor at the Highland Park Presbyterian Church in Dallas. He said Osborn, who had been ill for some time, had planned his own service and a date will be set shortly.
Osborn descended from pioneers and ranchers who settled in Mexico. After serving in the U.S. Army, Osborn started his retail career working at Saks Fifth Avenue in 1964. In the decade he was employed there, he worked his way up from a salesman to a buyer. Osborn briefly ran a men’s clothing and antiques boutique in Beverly Hills before joining Neiman Marcus, where he worked as a buyer for six years before being named vice president of men’s tailored clothing. He retired in 2002.
Osborn, who was known for his flamboyant personal style and ubiquitous mustache, is credited with helping to introduce luxury Italian lines to the store including Ermenegildo Zegna, Brioni and Kiton.
Barry Wishnow of Bash by Barry Wishnow in Nashville wrote: “Losing friends is a tough thing. I lost

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Men’s Spring 2020 Trend: Hang Loose

Men’s wear designers amped up the volume for spring — from looser cuts on suits and trousers to flowing ponchos and baggy knitwear. Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons captured the style with her stellar collection, which played on the theme of Virginia Woolf’s “Orlando,” and also hit the genderless trend.

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Launchmetrics’ Numbers Support Strength of Paris, Italian Men’s Fashion Weeks

It’s no surprise that Paris Men’s Fashion Week has been gaining in importance as New York and London continue to struggle. Marquee shows such as Louis Vuitton and Dior with their buzzy creative directors are overshadowing brands showing in other cities.
And while the Milan calendar is also experiencing some strain, the big Italian brands are still managing to hold their own against their Parisian counterparts.
Looking back at the spring 2019 season, Launchmetrics’ recently released State of Menswear report found that, thanks in large part to the debut of Virgil Abloh as creative director, Louis Vuitton was by far the most popular show of the season with 18.2 million media placements. That number outpaces Dior, the next most popular show, with 9.7 million MIVs, or media impact values, Launchmetrics’ proprietary measurement of media placement in all channels: social, print and online.
Third on the list is Versace, with 5 million MIVs, followed by Prada with 3.2 million, Valentino with 3.1 million, Giorgio Armani with 2.7 million, Off-White with 2.5 million, Yohji Yamamoto with 2.194 million, Boris Bidjan Saberi with 2.190 million and Balmain with 2 million.
Noticeably absent from this list, which includes coed shows, are any designer brands showing in either London

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Men’s Spring 2020 Trend: Graphic Art

Bold prints and patterns were all over the men’s runways for spring, with many designers collaborating with artists on the looks. Turning the process on its head, and creating a new paradigm, was artist Sterling Ruby, who has added “designer” to his résumé with his brand S.R. Studio. LA. CA., coming up with one of the standout collections of the season.

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Retailers Embrace Feminine Side of Men’s Shows in Paris

PARIS — Retailers embraced the wave of femininity that swept through the men’s shows in Paris. Fluid suits, silky shirts, a profusion of pastels — think pink! — floral prints and individual expression were the names of the game this season.
“The most important new direction we are looking for in Paris is the genderless look,” said Federica Montelli, head of fashion at La Rinascente.
Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of The Corner, pushed the idea a bit further:
“The classic, traditional men’s look for us is completely gone. Easy, fresh and bold are the keywords,” he said.
Dior topped the favorite collections, with Louis Vuitton and Dries Van Noten as runners-up. The next tier was crowded: Jil Sander, Loewe, Celine, Valentino and Off-White, reflecting diversity in opinions.
In the hot-new-talent department, Casablanca and Nanushka caught notice. And the best venue went to Louis Vuitton — the Paris streets never fail to charm. Lanvin’s poolside runway and Dior’s futuristic set were also popular.
While snarled traffic and hot sticky weather did not go unnoticed, the fashion, it seems, will be remembered the most.
Here, a roundup of the Paris spring collections in the eyes of the retailers.

Casablanca Men’s Spring Summer 2020 
Courtesy Photo

Fiona Firth, buying director, Mr Porter 
Top trends:

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Artica Arbox Men’s Spring 2020

Irene Roth, founder and creative director of Insta-friendly streetwear label Artica Arbox, wanted to create a dialog between the physical and digital worlds and how we communicate today. Pixelated graphics and texts punctuated simple bright sweatshirts, tees and outerwear – in vivid yellow and tomato red, for example – and were juxtaposed with more tactile pieces evocative of the “real world,” like a ribbed sweater in beige, navy and gray or a retro shell suit. PVC panel details and elastic trims added to the touch-and-feel dimension.
The young label continues to gain traction at retail – with only three collections for women and this its second for men, stockists already include Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York, Selfridges, Galeries Lafayette and Boon the Shop.

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Myar Men’s Spring 2020

Myar is showing its colors for spring. Andrea Rosso’s army uniform upcycling label this season matched military-sourced camouflage with multi-hued patterns from deadstock Hawaiian shirts, calling the collection Re_­Aloha. “We love to mix together two worlds that don’t belong together in a very harmonic way,” he explained.
The combinations’ visual effects are striking and fun. Pieces of a Hawaiian shirt, cut into camouflage shapes, were superimposed onto some uniforms. A green military fatigue pocket popped up on a similarly hued shirt emblazoned with palm trees. Blue military trousers took on a playful quality with piping made of shirting material.
On a number of garments, silhouettes of palm trees had been hand-stamped. “Every time it comes out differently,” Rosso said.
As in past seasons, Myar clothing comes with pouches containing excess fabric from its making-of. But this time, each also has a QR code through which it’s possible for people to learn about the provenance of the items and how they’ve been customized.
In another first, Myar created a dress, made of two military shirts put together. “Our biggest clients actually are females,” explained Rosso. “We have a unisex approach to the collection, even though these items are 100 percent made for men.”
The brand’s collaboration with

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Jil Sander Men’s Spring 2020

The heat of the desert and the cobbled streets of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern towns hung over this spare, elegant collection, which had a subtle, exotic flavor.
Lucie and Luke Meier’s shapes ranged from the boxy to the languid, with the color, pattern and texture doing most of the talking.
An elongated, marine blue shirtdress; a spare, branch-like design on the back of a long, sweeping coat, and the fringes or tassels on a sweater were among the standouts.
Luke said fluid tailoring remains the way forward for the brand, which has long been synonymous with pared-back shapes and fine details. Lucie added that the collection’s value lies in its subtlety, its “poetry and detail,” and its lightweight fabrics.
The couple have been turning their hands and minds to sustainability, too, working materials such as organic banana fiber into pieces such as the black-and-white trenchcoat that appeared in the show. Lucie said the fiber is a dream because it behaves like gazar, but it’s lighter and offers structure without the stiffness.
All of that fabric research meant that even the simplest of pieces sang — the boxy khaki workwear suits, the navy overcoats and those oversized, billowy white cotton shirts, fit for long strolls under

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Sander Lak Wants a Piece of Men’s Wear Pie for Sies Marjan

NEW YORK — Reserved, quiet, unassuming. These are words that would never be used to describe Sander Lak.
Instead, the creative director of Sies Marjan is upbeat, engaging, smart, sophisticated — and talented.
Lak, a former designer for Dries Van Noten, is the engine that has propelled the three-year-old brand squarely into the fashion spotlight. His romantic and colorful women’s wear is carried at some of the most discerning retailers around the world, including Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, Ssense, Matches, Browns, Harvey Nichols, The Webster and so on.
One year after launching his women’s collection in 2016, the Dutch designer dipped his toe into the men’s arena, offering up a capsule with a similar sensibility that immediately took hold. And this week, Lak is going all in, showing his first full men’s collection on the runway during Paris Men’s Fashion Week.
Although Lak, who also worked with Balmain in Paris and Phillip Lim in New York, was trained as a men’s wear designer at Central Saint Martins, this is the first time he’s truly spreading his wings in the men’s arena.
Interestingly, Lak’s foray into men’s came as a result of creating pieces for himself that were not offered for sale. “It’s hard for me

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Amiri Men’s Spring 2020

The feel-good vibes of the Summer of Love pervaded Mike Amiri’s coed offering for spring. Tactile fabrics like velvet and chiffon in a rainbow of pastel shades just begged to be touched in this mellow, romantic lineup that was a major step away from the grungier ethos of his past collections.
Soft tailoring played a much bigger part — testament perhaps to the buzzy brand’s collaboration with Renzo Rosso’s OTB holding, which recently took a minority stake in Amiri, and the use of Italian workshops. It took forms including a pantsuit in mint green Lurex jacquard and loose tuxedo pants in baby blue with glittering side stripes, paired with a double-breasted waistcoat over a crochet tank top. The outerwear was also strong, as in a trenchcoat in cornflower blue corduroy, another, sleeveless, in mint green snakeskin-effect leather.
Flared pants came in velvet, corduroy or suede, with front ties for the feminine designs, while pale knits added to the overall delicate feel of the collection.
Tie-dyed tops — a satin bomber with guitar-strap edging was a highlight — and a denim jacket painted with the face of Jimi Hendrix were clear nods toward psychedelia, but elsewhere, the references were less literal and all the

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Acne Studios Men’s Spring 2020

Jonny Johansson built a colorful and youthful lineup, rearranging familiar silhouettes and polishing them up for a fashion-hungry generation.
The designer once lived near a student campus, where he felt the breeziness of the students passing by — more seasoned than school kids, but not quite yet melded into the Establishment.
He recounted the scene: “I could see them — on the bicycle, always — some cool cat coming by with a blazer flying or a weird scarf.”
His cool cats grabbed this spirit and took off with it — dismounting the bicycle and hitting the streets of a fashion capital.
Suits were beautifully colored statement pieces, structured and boxy. This sturdiness was offset by interesting experiments with knits — a bright red sweater looked like a poncho, covered in fringes, while a top with a thin ruffle running across the chest felt more like a blouse than a sweater. His masterful handling of gender fluidity was also seen in a look that paired a sheer pastel shirt with lace trim and elegant, but masculine trousers, in black. Scarves, which are popping up all over the men’s shows, were worn around the neck with extra flair.
Embellishments came in the form of plastic panels —

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Cowboys, Y-Fronts and the New Drag: Brands to Check Out During Paris Men’s Week

PARIS — Paris men’s fashion week is having a moment: Hailing from Los Angeles, Sweden, China or Monaco, Rhude, Eytys, Li Ning and Alter are among the rising international brands that have been added to the official men’s calendar and presentation lineup this season.
GAMUT
Things are going pretty fast for Gamut, the fashion collective created in 2017 by former students of La Cambre fashion school in Brussels — which is surprising, because the seven French nationals are intent on taking their time.
“We’re continuing to experiment with the fashion calendar: We chose to skip fall 2019 to focus on our showroom, and realized that taking nine months to create a collection was a rhythm we quite liked,” said one of the members — all of whom prefer to remain anonymous — speaking at the collective’s studio at the Porte de la Chapelle, a somewhat sketchy area in the remote 18th arrondissement.
Since its first debut show last September, Gamut has added a photographer/visual director to its team, and landed a spot on the French couture federation’s official calendar for presentations. Now it’s behaving like full-fledged business with dedicated members in charge of sourcing, production, administration and communication. Decisions are still fully collegial, though.
“Each

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Cmmn Swdn Men’s Spring 2020

Adding an air of the tropics, python-inspired textures, exotic leaves and Seventies scarf motifs peppered the lineup of loose masculine tailoring. The overall mood telegraphed desert French Foreign Legionnaires, with Emma and Saif Bakir exploring military influences and subtle vintage touches.
The sense of heat was enhanced by the cracked leathers and burned holes dotting the large white short-sleeved shirts worn with Bermuda shorts with culotte volumes.
The feeling of hot-weather dressing was enhanced by the long scarves hanging from under caps, lending an allure of a desert trooper or Bedouin, while an ethnic flavor came through in the patterns of the pants with panels that tied at the front like a sarong.
The soft boxy shapes of the coats and tailored jackets were balanced by rock-style tight jeans in dark brown or yellow leather, or tight cycling short-style bottoms made from a shiny snakeskin print fabric and worn with large nylon coats printed with palm leaves or Fifties-style cropped sandy colored jackets.
Soft feminine looking fabrics balanced the masculinity of the shapes, lending a sense of delicate nostalgia to the collection, which nonetheless lacked a strong visual identity. Like a silhouette appearing on the desert horizon, distorted by the heat, a mirage.

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Represent Men’s Spring 2020

Designer brothers George and Michael Heaton made a few changes this season, pulling their show off the Milan runway in order to focus on a new ad campaign shot by Jordan Green. The campaign, themed around a car accident in the remote countryside and involving an English bull terrier, lands in the next few weeks on billboards and fly posters on both sides of the Atlantic.
The brothers also decamped to Rockfield Studios in Wales, recently featured in the film “Bohemian Rhapsody,” to unplug from their Manchester studio and get some fresh perspective.
The collection, on display in a Milan showroom, had more than a whiff of the countryside to it, and was done in a palette of olive green, brown, black and camel for the duo’s street-meets-utilitarian wear silhouettes. There were oversize Windbreakers inspired by fellow Mancunian Noel Gallagher, camou trousers and shorts, and hunting, field jackets and plaid coats fit for cold Welsh mornings.
The standout print featured vintage cars on T-shirts and pajama-style tops, a reference to the vintage cars parked in the driveway in front of Rockfield and to the theme of the upcoming ad campaign.

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Bed J.W. Ford Men’s Spring 2020

“I wanted to explore this idea of a strong man, but it just didn’t fit with my universe,” said Shinpei Yamagishi, who decided to hire a female patternmaker to explore the topic from her point of view.
The result, a collection equally at ease with its feminine and masculine sides, felt true to form, heightened by lovely fabric developments, like a velvet houndstooth and exquisite handmade Indian embroidery details that formed contrast bands on black tailoring and long shirts, lending a lingerie feel, with soft coats hanging from the backs of looks.
Shirts and jackets patterned with inky stains were made using an eco-friendly bleach, borrowing a technique typically used for making kimono’s in Tokyo’s Kyoto district.
Key looks include a silk-crepe buttoned and belted tunic worn under a fluid tailored houndstooth suit that had a sensuality to it, resembling a pantsuit worn over pajamas, as well as a hooded sand-colored satin jacket and long tunic with embroidered lacy motifs at the hem, worn over a large tapered pant and spats, mixing military nods with femininity and romance.
Adding a contemporary twist were a couple of color-blocked turquoise, red, yellow and black looks from the designer’s ongoing collaboration with Adidas Originals.

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Wilhelmina Bolsters Men’s Division

Wilhelmina is beefing up its men’s division.
The modeling agency on Friday hired Matthew Trust and Gene Kogan from competing agency DNA Models to co-direct its men’s board. They will replace Taylor Hendrick, who had headed the men’s division, but is leaving the company, according to Bill Wackermann, Wilhelmina’s chief executive officer.
Wackermann, a former Condé Nast executive who joined Wilhelmina Modeling Inc. in 2016, has been restructuring the company to expand its focus beyond the runway. That includes the development of Wilhelmina Studio, a creative agency that creates digital content and influencer programs for brands including L’Orèal, Ugg and Disney.
“In my almost four years here, my goal has been to increase the quality of our people,” Wackermann said. “It’s a really competitive industry and we want to have the best and brightest people who are committed to model development and social media.”
He expects the addition of Trust and Kogan to help grow the company’s historically “strong” men’s division. The agency counts models such as Francisco Lachowski, Marlon Teixeira and RJ King on its roster. Wackermann said Trust and Kogan are skilled at not just scouting new talent but working with other agents to identify potential models. He said that while international guys

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Versace Men’s Spring 2020

Buckle up and put on those Biggie sunglasses because Donatella is roaring into town in her arty black Ferrari, and she’s ready for some fun, Nineties Versace style. Boy, did the designer pile it on for spring, with leopard spots, colored crystals, car prints and Lilly Pulitzer-decamps-to-Miami neon brights. And that was the men’s wear, not the few women’s looks.
Few surfaces in the collection were untouched by print, gloss or sparkle as models glowed and flashed like beacons on a dark road. Bold and garish, the show was 100-proof Versace, utterly true to the brand’s roots, and to the Gianni-cum-Donatella aesthetic of more, more, more – and repeat – preferably while swinging a leopard-print bag.
There was nothing subtle going on here, what with the big Gianni Versace signature splashed over neckties, or picked out in lines of tiny crystals on silk patterned shirts. For anyone wondering who Versace’s new owners are, there were some big clues in the baseball caps and Gianni Versace signature socks, classic entry price merch to please the folks at the publicly-quoted Capri Holdings.
While the yellow, orange, green or blue-tinged sunglasses didn’t carry big branding, they were a vintage house style, designed for the Notorious B.I.G.

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Olivier Saillard Stages Ode to Contemporary Men’s Fashion

FLORENCE — “For museums, it’s easier to present an evening dress from the Fifties by a house like Balenciaga or Dior, but it’s not so easy to provoke a dream with a gray costume,” said Olivier Saillard.
For his latest exhibition — titled “A Short Novel on Men’s Fashion, Thirty Years at Pitti Immagine Uomo” and produced in collaboration with the Fondazione Pitti Imagine Discovery to mark the 30th anniversary of Pitti Immagine Uomo — he set himself the challenge of curating a show based on how men actually dress. “I looked at the [museum’s] collection, evening dresses by Dior, Balenciaga, Vionnet, and finally I realized, we don’t have any jeans, T-shirts — ordinary clothes which are also poetic,” he said a preview of the exhibition on Tuesday.

A view of Olivier Saillard’s new exhibition in Florence. 
Astra Marina Cucebi

Lived-in looking ensembles are presented on wire clothes valets throughout a series of rooms at the Museum of Fashion and Costume at the Palazzo Pitti, arranged in groups united by forms, colors and shapes with fun details like scarves and shoelaces suspended in movement, as if lifted by a sudden gust of wind. The ensembles — spanning smart-casual, eveningwear, historical costume, streetwear and sportswear

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Salvatore Ferragamo Men’s Spring 2020

Having Palazzo Vecchio as the backdrop of a runway show is a privilege that only a quintessential Florentine brand such as Salvatore Ferragamo with a long history in this Tuscan city could hope to pull off. Of course such an incredible backdrop might have become a bit overwhelming with a weak collection. But that wasn’t the case for the lineup creative director Paul Andrew showed on Tuesday night.
The antique beauty of the Piazza della Signoria square actually created a charming contrast to the slightly futuristic take on the utilitarian aesthetic injected into the collection. Salvatore Ferragamo’s incredible craftsmanship and heritage stood out, but in a new version, never nostalgic or retro, but projected into the future. The high-tech approach to the treatment of materials, including leather which was embossed and then waxed for a glossy effect, as well a certain sharpness in the cuts, conveyed a look that felt very modern and cool yet never cold or too minimal. Accessories helped put the focus on the duality of the lineup: while the sailing bags and the leather sandals exuded classic elegance, the multipocket bags and chunky boots offered the most functional and cutting-edge essence of Andrew’s fashion proposal for

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Retailers Hail Return of Tailoring, Bold Color at London Men’s Week

LONDON — The light men’s wear schedule for spring gave retailers a chance to deep-dive into emerging trends and give emerging talent a chance to shine. Craig Green, Stefan Cooke and Martine Rose were among the darlings of the three-day showcase, with retailers lauding their bold designs and strong aesthetic.
“Craig Green’s collection was a glorious, uplifting, colorful expansion on a signature style that he has really defined,” said Bruce Pask, men’s wear fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, who also talked about the increasing influence of tailoring on the London runways.
Simon Longland, general merchandise manager for men’s wear and sports at Harrods, also noted the new focus on tailored looks. “There were celebrations of modern tailoring at its finest, generously cut and in a sleek style. This was a key feature that ran through several shows,” he said.
Here, retailers talk about some of the London highlights.

Backstage at Stefan Cooke men’s spring 2020. 
Kuba Dabrowski/WWD

Jack Cassidy, men’s wear buying manager, Selfridges:
Favorite collections: Fashion East, Stefan Cooke, Craig Green and A-Cold-Wall.
Top trends: Color, energy, leather, rich fabrications and textures, fun hair and hats.
Talent scouting: We are excited by Nicomede Talavera’s return to men’s wear which will be announced [this week] and his

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Rip Up the Calendar: Men’s Show Weeks Are Not Working for Everyone

LONDON — Has the men’s wear industry outgrown its boots?
This is a golden moment for men’s wear, with flourishing sales, a fashion-loving generation of shoppers, and Instagram propelling sneaker-crazy young men into stores like never before. Despite it all, the seasonal men’s fashion calendars — with the exception of Paris — are shrinking.
The New York, London and Milan schedules have been shedding designers and brands for many reasons: Fashion houses have chosen the coed route, opted to show or present in different cities, take part in trade shows such as Pitti Uomo, or stage direct-to-consumer events, or digital shows.
Others have decided to take a step back and invest their marketing money elsewhere, refusing to be shackled to the runway — or the presentation space — season after season.
Christopher Raeburn, a longtime fixture on the London men’s calendar, has decided to pull out of the city’s spring/summer 2020 lineup, which runs from Saturday to June 10. He said he wants to explore new ways of engaging with his consumers and community.
“It is our job to disrupt, to capture and create a new mood,” said Raeburn, who last year was named global creative director of Timberland, and who continues to operate his

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Chalayan Men’s Spring 2020

Easy, cool and lightning-quick.
Hussein Chalayan’s show took place on a little pedestrian street across from his Mayfair store, and the setup was refreshingly simple, with all guests standing, Mother Nature providing the lighting and models carrying their own music, via little boomboxes that came straight from 1986.
There may have been a complex, interesting back story to the clothes — Chalayan is passionate about what he does, and his collections are often underpinned by sociopolitical and historical themes — but the collection itself was a breeze.
There were stripes galore, on suits with ties at the waist and down the leg, on cotton shirts and billowy or flat-front trousers and on collarless tops. Trousers and shorts were rolled at the bottom, some came with flaps or folds, while lightweight shirts were boxy or had rounded shoulders and elbow-skimming sleeves.
Silhouettes were languid and made for hot-weather climes, and Chalayan shaped them with a drawstring here and a snap, knot or buckle there.
While he may have begun with the idea of dance and movement among ethnic groups colonized by Western nations, and about the tensions between indigenous cultures and their occupiers across the centuries, he ended with the most democratic of collections, which should

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Qasimi Men’s Spring 2020

Some 12 tons of coffee grounds were used to pave the runway of Qasimi’s runway. “I wanted something poetic that evokes the senses. It has the right texture and color, and smells good,” said designer Khalid S. Al Qasimi after the show.
He didn’t grind those coffee beans for the show, of course – the grounds were sourced from a company that recycles them to make burning logs.
The UAE-born designer wanted his new collection to address the political tension in the Middle East where he comes from, and give it a sense of positivity.
“I have to be political, it’s not just on trend. Coming from the Middle East, I have a duty to discuss politics. Fashion is my kind of material to work with and expressing it,” he said.
Political messages aside, the clothes were well made, breezy and relaxed and ideal for the hot, urban and wealthy environs of Dubai. There were striped oversized T-shirts, loose shirts, trench coats and military jackets in beige, mustard, olive green, navy and grey, while the few pink and lilac sporty looks will be great for nights out in the Lamborghini.

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British Label Stefan Cooke Finds Its Voice, and Flies Solo, at London Fashion Week Men’s

LONDON — Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt, cofounders of the label Stefan Cooke and finalists for the LVMH Prize, are about to stage their first solo runway show on June 9 during London Men’s Fashion Week, and they’re feeling the heat. “It feels surreal to be doing it by ourselves. It also feels intimidating,” said Cooke, who has witnessed a shower of accolades over the past two years.
The brand has won the H&M Design Award and the L’Oréal Professional Creative Award, but Cooke and Burt will now have to wait until September to see if they’ve scooped the LVMH Prize.
Having shown under the Fashion East umbrella, the duo have moved on from conceptual to more commercially focused designs. The label is stocked at Machine-A, Dover Street Market and Matchesfashion.com.
Their lines for spring/summer 2020 have a more relaxed silhouette than in past seasons, where trousers and shirts were tight and cropped. They will also be introducing a new bag concept, a category that’s been performing well for the company.
As they build the brand, they’ve been asking themselves some difficult questions, such as: “How do you take all of the things that are Stefan Cooke, like textile manipulations, and turn them into

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New York Men’s Day Offers Peek at All-Stars, Emerging Labels

New York Men’s Day’s afternoon session on Monday showcased both emerging designers and those who have created more-established businesses, ones touted as All-Stars. Those included Krammer & Stoudt, Descendant of Thieves and Wood House Army. Private Policy, which will hold a runway show on Wednesday, was also part of the mix.
Three  pieces from Krammer & Stoudt were psychedelic-colored updates of the brand’s Americana-skewed workwear, with jackets and pants created from 12-oz. denim and decorated with Day-Glo colors in designs including hot rod flames.
Julian Woodhouse of Wood House Army offered up WHA, three graphic black-and-white vertically striped looks from his diffusion line that included an anorak, shorts and a one-piece with military details.
For Descendant of Thieves, the brand offered up an assortment of multipurpose pieces for the travel guy, including reversible shorts, lightweight jackets and swimwear that could double as regular shorts.
Private Policy used the All-Star showcase to launch Pxl, a see-now-buy-now capsule collection of black, blue and green prints on shirts, trousers, caps, a bikini top and racing shorts.
Among the other brands showing at New York Men’s Day were International Woolmark Prize 2018/19 nominees Ka Wa Key, who presented a romantic collection of hand-done tie-dye patterns and distressing on airy knits and

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Wan Hung Men’s Spring 2020

In his second runway show at New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Wan Hung expanded and enhanced his design language through elevated basics in vibrant monochromatic looks and dark ensembles.
Metamorphosis was the theme of the Central Saint Martins graduate’s spring collection that was based on the Green Snake Chinese folk legend about snakes transforming into human beings.
Several tops in the collection feature asymmetric patterns, open backs, exposed shoulders and cutout details on T-shirts, shirts and sweatshirts, as well as transparent tops and jackets intended to represent shedding skin.
Hung also looked to the film “A Streetcar Named Desire” and drew comparisons between the folk legend and characters Stella Kowalski and Blanche DuBois, specifically how the sisters grew to be so different over time. With this in mind, Hung unveiled women’s dresses as a nod to the legend and the film.

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Men’s Designer Inspirations

The shows must go on — literally.
Although the schedule is sparse, with many big-name designers taking a pass, a few brands are still participating in New York Fashion Week: Men’s, which kicks off today for its three-day run.
New York, which jumped up from July this time, is now starting the men’s spring season, pre-dating London, Florence, Milan and Paris.
Here, New York designers gave WWD an exclusive sneak peek at their vision, which ranged from the 50th anniversary of the Stonewall Inn demonstration and the art of deconstruction to Eighties queer culture.
 
“This collection was inspired by a clash between the mundane qualities of rural domesticity and the rebellious fluorescence of the ’80s queer underground.” — Neil Grotzinger, NIHL
“Deconstruct the traditions.” — Daisuke Obana, N. Hoolywood
“Inspired by the Stonewall Inn riot 50 years ago, the Private Policy spring 2020 collection is a call for community, so we can overcome societal challenges and prevail with courage together.” — Siying Qu and Haoran Li, Private Policy
“With a keen interest in exploring the hardness of the urban environment against the softness of an untouched culture, Abysm’s debut collection is inspired by the duality cultural and life experiences from my youth, fused with my desire to

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Men’s Suit Trend 2020: New Wave

The resurgence began during the men’s shows in January and is likely to continue as the spring 2020 collections kick off, beginning with Saint Laurent in L.A. and Prada in Shanghai next week, and then moving on to London, Milan and Paris.

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Harry Styles Proves It’s a New Era for Men’s Fashion at Gucci’s Cruise 2020 Show

Harry Styles, 2019 Met Gala, Red Carpet Fashions“I’m feeling Gucci.” Harry Styles, probably.
No one throws a party quite like the fashion powerhouse and its Cruise 2020 Collection runway show was no different. On Tuesday,…

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Dior Men’s Kim Jones Edits Issue of A Magazine Curated By

GUEST CURATOR: Kim Jones, creative director of Dior Men, has edited the new issue of fashion publication A Magazine Curated By.
Launching in London on May 29, the magazine’s 19th issue, named A Magazine Curated By Kim Jones, was entirely overseen by Jones, from the two covers, shot by photographer David Vasiljevic under the creative direction of Dior makeup image director Peter Philips, to the 26 artist “letter” pages that make up the hefty 248-page tome.
The designer’s approach for the issue takes the form of an alphabet retracing his inspirations and eclectic circle of friends: Subjects range from “A” for Naomi Campbell’s Africa, “P” for punk with a photo shoot by Jackie Nickerson, and ending with “Z” for Amanda Lear, whose song “Alphabet” was one of the inspirations for the magazine.

Kim Jones and Naomi Campbell by Hugo Scott in A Magazine Curated By Kim Jones. 
Courtesy

Other contributors include Japanese illustrator Hajime Sorayama, who imagined a portrait of model Bella Hadid in his signature futuristic style, photographers Brett Lloyd, Pierre-Ange Carlotti and Nick Knight, as well as U.S. artist Kaws, who submitted an artwork featuring Kate Moss cuddling his signature plush toys, surrounded by the Kaws bee illustration designed by the artist for

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EXCLUSIVE: Mytheresa to Launch Men’s Wear for a Post-Streetwear World

LONDON — This is a man’s world, to borrow from James Brown, with big retailers such as Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Selfridges casting fresh eyes over their men’s fashion floors and expanding their spaces to cater to a brand-conscious generation.
Online players such as Mr Porter, Matchesfashion.com, Farfetch and the British site Endclothing are making more space for sneakers, men’s capsules, exclusive products and limited editions, while the Paris men’s show schedule is back-to-back, with new international names and hot contemporary labels that show men’s and women’s wear alike.
Mytheresa, which until now has sold women’s wear only, is vaulting into the arena with a gutsy proposition to deliver a new elegance to the category, complete with a lineup of luxe brands, tailored clothing and price points suited to shoppers with deep pockets.
Where other retailers may be stretching their offer or floor space to include more streetwear, T-shirts, sneakers, grooming products and entry price points, Mytheresa is taking a different direction in the belief there is untapped demand for a new take on the classics and a more formal attitude.

Michael Kliger, president of Mytheresa. 
Courtesy

While Mytheresa’s offer will include sneakers and lots of casualwear, anyone looking for pure streetwear will be let down.
“It’s

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New York Fashion Week: Men’s Hanging on by a Thread

New York Fashion Week: Men’s is on life support.
Less than three weeks until the start of the men’s spring runway season, the Council of Fashion Designers of America has finally released its calendar — and it’s not pretty.
There are fewer than 20 men’s designers showing and half are with Agentry PR’s New York Men’s Day. Absent from the calendar are some designers who have been active supporters of the men’s shows since they were launched four years ago, including Todd Snyder, Robert Geller, Ovadia New York, Carlos Campos and Bode.
Instead, the calendar kicks off on June 3 with Agentry’s presentations of small and emerging designers only. The following day, N.Hoolywood will show at 6 p.m., followed by Frere at 7 p.m. The final day on June 5 will see presentations from Hecho, Freemans Sporting Club, Untitled Collective, Dyne and Linder, as well as shows from Private Policy, NIHL and Grungy Gentleman.
The reasons for the lack of participation are several. First, this marks the first time the men’s shows have moved from July to June to coincide with women’s resort. That timing is early for a lot of brands since the men’s market in New York is generally in mid- to

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Giorgio Armani to Hold Signature Men’s Show in June at Storied Via Borgonuovo HQ

HOME SWEET HOME: For the first time in 18 years, Giorgio Armani will show his namesake men’s collection for spring 2020 at his storied headquarters at 11 Via Borgonuovo.
The show is scheduled on June 17 at 5 p.m., closing Milan Men’s Fashion Week, which kicks off on June 14.
Armani took control in 1996 of the stately 17th-century building, Palazzo Orsini, named after the 12th-century family, but in 2001 the designer unveiled offices and his Teatro, designed by Japanese architect Tadao Ando on Milan’s Via Bergognone — in a former Nestlé industrial area, and effectively helping to revamp that part of the city.
The Emporio Armani show will be held at the Teatro on June 15 at 11 a.m.
The designer has most recently been experimenting with different formats and venues. Last September, he staged a coed Emporio Armani show at Milan’s Linate Airport — at the Hangar where the imposing Emporio Armani billboard has been placed since 1996. That was the first time a fashion show was held at that site and it was followed by a Robbie Williams concert.
In February, for the first time, Armani held a coed show for his signature line at Silos, the exhibition space he opened in 2015, opposite the

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Sies Marjan Expected to Show Men’s in Paris

Count Sies Marjan as the latest brand to make the jump from New York to Paris.
Sources said the buzzy New York-based brand will hold its first men’s-only show in June during Paris Fashion Week. The company declined to comment but an announcement is expected next week.

The label, designed by Sander Lak, a former head of design for Dries Van Noten, has historically shown men’s looks during his women’s show in New York, but a more-intense focus on its men’s collection has prompted the company to opt for the Paris runway where many of the higher-profile brands show.

Sies Marjan launched as a luxury women’s label in 2016 in New York. Lak, a Dutch native, debuted his first full men’s line for fall 2018.
Before spending five years at Dries Van Noten, Lak, a graduate of Central Saint Martins, worked at Balmain in Paris and Phillip Lim in New York. His Sies Marjan brand is known for its use of color, proportion and innovative materials.

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Agentry to Open New York Fashion Week: Men’s Again

Agentry PR is pivoting.
The organizer of New York Men’s Day, a showcase for emerging designers, will once again open the men’s spring calendar, working in tandem with the Council of Fashion Designers of America.
The CFDA shifted the men’s dates to June 3 to 5 this season to coincide with the women’s resort calendar. This means the New York-based men’s shows will take place ahead of the men’s shows in London, Florence, Milan and Paris.
Agentry had considered sticking with the former July dates to give the designers more time to prepare their collections and align with the New York men’s trade shows, but opted to stick with CFDA instead.
But there are other changes: New York Men’s Day will now be held at Daylight Studios & Location 05, next to the newly opened Hudson Yards complex on the West Side of Manhattan. For the past few seasons, the shows had been held at Dune Studios in the financial district.
New York Men’s Day will feature presentations from nine designers, down from 12 in prior iterations. Five will be held over a two-hour period in the morning and four in the afternoon.
But the event will also feature an All Stars Showcase where previous Men’s

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Dior to Open Men’s Pop-ups Featuring Soroyama Robot

Dior Men is getting a lot of mileage out of its Hajime Sorayama sculpture.
Last November, the brand’s artistic director Kim Jones commissioned a 39-foot-tall sculpture of a robot woman by Japanese contemporary artist Sorayama to be the centerpiece for his pre-fall 2019 men’s show in Tokyo. The artist also designed a Dior logo for the season and his futuristic imagery became part of the prints used in the collection.
Now, smaller versions of the sculpture are making their way to retailers in North America, where they will be featured in a series of pop-ups this spring.
The first debuted at The Park at CityCenterDC in Washington, D.C., on Tuesday. The 16.4-foot version will remain on site through May 7.
On May 1, Holt Renfrew’s Yorkdale store in Toronto will install a 9.2-foot version that will remain there through May 31. On the other coast, South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif., will take delivery of the robot that had been at CityCenter and install it in its Jewel Court on May 14. It will remain there through May 28.
Designed like pods, the interconnected spaces are modular and can be adapted to a number of different retail locations. Inside the metal pods are mirrors

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Penney’s Changes Chief Men’s Merchant

The changes are continuing at J.C. Penney.
James Starke, the company’s longtime head of men’s wear, has exited the retailer and has been replaced by Jeff Useforge.
Useforge, whose title is senior vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s and children’s, will oversee the company’s private and national brands. He was formerly vice president and divisional merchandise manager of men’s, big and tall, activewear and team apparel for Penney’s. Before that, he was a senior buyer of big and tall and The Foundry, a big and tall concept that it had once hoped to roll out as a chain.
Useforge has more than 30 years of retail experience and began his career with Mercantile Department Stores. He also spent five years with Saks Inc. in the Proffitt’s and McRae’s division, where he was gmm of men’s and children’s. He has also worked for Bon-Ton and Kohl’s.
Starke had spent 13 years at Penney’s, mainly in the men’s department. His most recent role was senior vice president and senior gmm of men’s, children’s, jewelry and home, according to his LinkedIn profile. He joined Penney’s in 2005 after spending eight years at Foley’s in Houston, also primarily in the men’s area.
He could not be reached

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Koral Delves Into Men’s With Equinox 

LOS ANGELES — Koral, the activewear brand backed by Seven For All Mankind cofounder Peter Koral, will enter the men’s space exclusively with Equinox before a broader rollout at retail.
The men’s line launches with more than 20 stockkeeping units, priced from $ 75 to $ 300 and utilizing many of the same performance fabrics seen in the women’s line, such as lightweight scuba. The men’s collection takes on a streetwear-inspired aesthetic and a color scheme of navy and taupe.
The official launch is April 30 in 19 Equinox stores for a six-month exclusive, in addition to Koral’s online shop. The collection will broaden for fall with a larger stockkeeping unit count distributed to more retailers.
“I would love if men’s could be just as big as the women’s business one day,” chief marketing officer and cofounder Marcelo Kugel said. “I think we can get a stronghold in the market and that’s why Equinox wanted to be our main partner on this because they see the opportunity for growth and then we’ve also been approached by Peloton, Barry’s Boot Camp and Net-a-porter with the launch of fall.”
Koral helped fund the business in the beginning, fueling about $ 8.5 million worth of working capital. The business has now been

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Men’s Brands Jump Into Sustainability Efforts

Like many things in men’s wear, it often takes a bit longer for a trend to take hold than it does in women’s wear. Sustainability has been no exception. But now, most men’s brands and retailers are all in.
While some men’s designers, such as Christopher Raeburn, were early adopters, others are just now jumping on board. According to Cara Smyth, vice president of Glasgow Caledonian New York College and founder of the Fair Fashion Center sustainability program, those in the outdoor industry were among the first to embrace the movement due to their ties to nature. But the movement has since spread to a variety of men’s wear brands.
“Many men’s brands are interested in sustainability as it provides operating efficiencies that reduce impacts and reflect the values of the brand to both consumers and even investors where applicable,” she said.
So whether it’s PVH’s goal to generate zero waste, or Perry Ellis’ new solar panel installation project at its distribution center in Seneca, S.C., companies big and small have gotten on board.
Here is a closer look at some of the brands leading the way in men’s wear.
Christopher Raeburn
Just call him the King of Upcycling. The U.K.-based designer has been a champion

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Etro Men’s Line to Make Runway Comeback in June

RUNWAY RETURN: Etro is bringing its men’s line back on the catwalk.
Following a three-season runway hiatus, during which Etro men’s creative director Kean Etro organized engaging presentations, the brand will unveil its spring 2020 collection with a show on June 16.
The last men’s collection that Etro showed on the catwalk was the spring 2018 lineup, which was presented with a coed runway show at the Palazzo del Ghiaccio venue in Milan.
The location of the upcoming men’s show is still to be disclosed. After seasons of shows held at Palazzo del Ghiaccio, last February Etro showed its women’s fall 2019 collection at Milan’s Giuseppe Verdi music conservatory.
Etro, which counts more than 200 stores, is investing in communication and marketing, strengthening the experience in stores and increasing digital content. Europe is still Etro’s biggest market, representing 30 percent of sales. It is followed by Asia and the U.S., accounting for 30 and 20 percent of the brand’s total business, respectively.

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WWD Men’s Summit: Hilary Coles of Hims

Hims is making waves in the wellness industry by tapping into a market that has otherwise been largely neglected: men.
“We launched Hims to address and normalize conversations that have been too often stigmatized and educate men that it’s OK to take care of themselves and actually, it’s kind of weird not to,” said Hilary Coles, Hims’ brand leader. “We help men take care of themselves through a telemedicine platform. What that means is that we offer men access to over-the-counter and prescription medicine via an easy-to-use online consultation that pairs them with doctors licensed in their states and from a network of pharmacies across the country.”
Launched 18 months ago, Hims now has “hundreds of thousands” of men using its platform, said Coles, which gives them access to FDA-approved, medical-grade products, educational tools and medical expertise.
“In health care, there’s a debilitating stigma attached to really important issues for men. It’s largely caused by a vacuum and a lack of conversation because men are unfortunately afraid to approach these hard conversations and they’re afraid to approach them with doctors, with their closest friends and even with their partners,” Coles said.
To combat this stigma, Coles and her team place extra emphasis on packaging

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Chief Merchant Scott Norris Exits Men’s Wearhouse

The changes have begun at Tailored Brands.
The California-based men’s wear retailer has parted ways with Scott Norris, the long-time chief merchant for its flagship Men’s Wearhouse division, WWD has learned.
Norris, who had been with the company since the mid-1990s, was named brand president of Men’s Wearhouse and Moores in 2014. He started his career as a buyer for Macy’s in 1991 and joined The Men’s Wearhouse as executive vice president and general merchandise manager in 1996, according to his LinkedIn profile.
“After 22 incredible years and countless contributions to The Men’s Wearhouse, Scott Norris has decided to leave the company to try something new,” a company spokesperson confirmed. “We wish him every success in his next chapter.”
Norris could not be reached for comment.
Last fall, Tailored Brands brought Carrie Ask on board as president of the Men’s Wearhouse and Moores brands. Norris, who had held that position since 2014, was named chief merchant.
At the end of March, the company elevated Dinesh Lathi, the former executive chairman, to chief executive officer, succeeding Doug Ewert, who had retired from the top post at the end of September 2018.
Lathi has been highly critical of the company’s past strategies, saying the retailer has underinvested in its

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J. Crew Closes Liquor Store Men’s Shop

It’s the end of an era for J. Crew.
When the retailer opened its Liquor Store stand-alone men’s concept a decade ago, it set a new standard for men’s wear specialty retailing and was one of the first experiential retail stores with its heritage-heavy clubby interior and third-party brands, including Red Wing shoes and Thomas Mason shirts.
It also put helped Todd Snyder, who was J. Crew’s head of men’s wear at the time, on the map. He worked with Andy Spade and then-chief executive officer Mickey Drexler to create the must-visit men’s emporium in TriBeCa. It also served to introduce the Ludlow suit model, which remains among the company’s best-selling models today.
But now a decade after opening its doors, the Liquor Store is no more. J. Crew quietly shuttered the shop at the end of March. The company said it first decided to close the store last year, adding: “Each year we review those leases that are coming to their end, and this year like last year, we made the strategic decision to close those stores where it made financial sense to do so.”
J. Crew opened a separate men’s store in Dumbo in Brooklyn last August and all told has 16

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Grailed Founder on Future of the Men’s Fashion ‘Movement’

Men’s fashion has changed a lot in the past decade, and Arun Gupta sees it changing still.
Led by a young male consumer obsessed with streetwear, a new interest in fashion has led the popular success of sites like Grailed, which Gupta founded in 2013 as a marketplace and community platform for “super enthusiasts,” like himself. But already the culture is moving beyond streetwear.
“The men’s clothing movement, it being acceptable for men to care more about the clothes they wear, has been building for the past 10 years,” Gupta said. “But streetwear is the last phase of it.”
Already on Grailed, he said the inventory is about evenly split between streetwear and fashion, possibly a sign that the realm is cooling off a bit. And then there’s the split between the two types of fashion consumers Gupta is seeing.
“One is the consumer who buys to wear it, then there’s the consumer buying to flip it,” Gupta said. “It’s very prevalent in sneakers and now very prevalent in streetwear and it’s pretty unique to the ecosystem.”
He compared the level of resale with a brand like Celine, where new items have been slow to appear on Grailed and a brand like Supreme, which shows

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MEN’S FORUM: The Whitaker Group’s James Whitner Relies on Instinct and Close Consumer Connections to Stay Ahead

For The Whitaker Group’s founder James Whitner, being the consumer is essential to knowing the consumer.
With an assortment of stores via his company’s four retail entities — Social Status, A.P.B., Prosper and A Ma Maniére — Whitner emphasized the importance of being submerged with the people you are trying to connect with. He asked, “Are you focused on the consumer? Do you know who the consumer is and why? Most people don’t. You’re casting a wide net in men’s wear…I’m the guy. I’m the guy who’s buying the stuff and wearing the stuff.”
Aside from anticipating what his shoppers want, Whitner spoke of how he tries to design spaces that they will emotionally respond to. “I’m always trying to re-create the places and spaces I’ve been in. I feel like I have a romantic affair with the consumer in the process. Can someone cue the music? [Romantic tunes follow.] When I walk into a store, this is how I feel. I’m being romanced by the romance,” he said.
Referring to outdated business practices that can’t keep up with quick fire social media and fashion’s rapid speed of change, Whitner said, “You’ve got to set your businesses up to move like we move.

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Men’s Wear Movers

These 12 designers, brands, retailers and influencers are changing the face of the men’s wear industry.
 
1. Hedi Slimane
 
As the original androgynous designer who set in motion the skinny tailoring movement in his days at Dior Homme, it’s no surprise that Hedi Slimane’s appointment as artistic, creative and image director at Celine was one of the most newsworthy debuts of last year, marking the label’s first steps into the men’s arena.
“I am enchanted; what a great choice,” said the late Karl Lagerfeld, one of Slimane’s most enthusiastic fans, at the time of Slimane’s appointment at Celine in January 2018.
Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, has called Slimane “one of the most talented designers of our time.”
The Frenchman has a track record of reinterpreting cool and attracting youth, tapping into the energy of the music and art scenes and positing his designs in a broader cultural context.
The nomination — which also includes heading Celine’s women’s fashion as well as leather goods, accessories and fragrances — was part of an ambition to at least double the brand’s sales within five years, making it one of LVMH’s top labels after Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior.
With his debut

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Mytheresa Expands Into Men’s Wear, Taps Chris Kyvetos

LONDON — Munich-based retailer Mytheresa is adding men’s wear to its offer and bringing Sneakerboy founder Chris Kyvetos to be its new buying director of men’s wear.
Kyvetos, a serial entrepreneur who founded the Australian chain of concept showrooms selling high-end and mass market sneakers via iPad, will be tasked with building a new dedicated men’s wear team and developing the retailer’s market strategy for the category.
Kyvetos is also the buyer and franchise partner of Balenciaga in Australia and previously served as a consultant at Stylebop, another Munich-based e-commerce site. In addition to Sneakerboy, which Kyvetos has opened to resellers as of late and developed as a space where “kids sell shoes to each other,” he has also been planning the launch of his own sneaker line, Athletic Footwear, as well as the opening of a new China atelier that will champion ethical and transparent footwear manufacturing.
For Mytheresa, hiring Kyvetos and moving into men’s wear was the next step, following on from the strong growth of the company’s women’s wear business and expansion into kids’ wear last year. “Men’s wear will be a natural expansion for Mytheresa and represents a significant business opportunity going forward. We see a strong momentum for men’s

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Noma T.D. RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Noma T.D.
Main message: Masako Noguchi and Takuma Sasaki have been designing their brand for more than a decade, but their latest collection was the first one they presented at Tokyo Fashion Week. First they showed a short film directed by Rinko Kawauchi with music by Hiroshi Fujiwara. Titled “Harmony,” it showed simple, everyday scenes at a family country house and the surrounding wilderness as winter changes to spring.
Next, a black curtain opened to reveal eight models in relaxed, outdoorsy Noma T.D. looks. A pajama-like set of flannel pants and a shirt in a big, bold check pattern was paired with a black fishing vest for men, while a gray, navy and dark green floral print satin dress peeked out from under a plush wool coat for women. There was also a blue tie-dyed sweatsuit, a shirt embroidered with large flowers, and a quilted black coat with striped satin sleeves in black and deep blue.
The result: The offering, while small, showed a balance between street-ready and outdoorsy pieces, making it well suited for the modern urbanite.

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