Nihl Men’s Spring 2019

In his New York show, Neil Grotzinger of Nihl, the LVMH Prize finalist, broke traditional rules of masculinity with a collection that centered around bending the rules of those in authority.
He took police officers, football players and Wall Street brokers and turned their wardrobes on their head by “exploring the qualities of borderline ephemerality and downright queerness,” according to the liner notes.

A clear example was a pair of football pants made from fine white silk he paired with a handmade chain mail tank top. An authentic crinkled painter’s tarp — black on one side, green on the other with drawstrings included — was reinterpreted as pants and a top.

Grotzinger’s use of elaborate embroidery techniques appeared as embellishments on several pieces, including the sleeves of sheer tops and a sliced-open basketball short.

The use of revealing cutouts and jock straps throughout the collection added a level of eroticism while enhancing the masculinity of the offering.

“The concepts of masculinity can be very restrictive and I like to break the conformity of that,” Grotzinger said.

In this debut, Grotzinger gained a lot of attention by breaking the rules — in the right way.

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Jahnkoy Men’s Spring 2019

Maria Jahnkoy, whose real name is Maria Kazakova, is Siberian and studied at Central Saint Martins and Parsons, has received a lot of support from the industry with her brand narrative, which is centered on preserving traditional craftsmanship and reworking it for a new generation.
She was shortlisted for the 2017 LVMH Prize and has found fans in consultant Julie Gilhart and Bruce Pask, the men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. Kazakova also has the support of Puma, Swarovski and the CFDA’s Elaine Gold Launch Pad program.
Her goal has always been to connect larger companies with local artisans, but with the extra help she’s been able to expand on that and bring more makers from Brooklyn and India into the mix. The show, which was more like a theatrical art project, was a collective effort as well. Titled “Deceived: No More,” the performance explored how the fashion industry impacts cultural identity. The presentation, which was choreographed by Nathan Trice, was broken up into three parts: chaos, unification and order. Much like her previous presentations, she made the runway mimic a chaotic city street that was dotted with orange cones and caution signs — one read “Separation is No

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Abasi Rosborough Men’s Spring 2019

In their sophomore showing during New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough explored a desert phantom theme that referenced a variety of vanishing cultures and tribes.
The design duo paraded a diverse range, from kimono-inspired jackets and coats and fitted cargo pants to Navajo-printed parkas. The color palette included deep burgundies and burnt orange that brought an Eastern sensibility to the forefront, while a flowing white section telegraphed the desert inspiration. “We even looked at ‘Lawrence of Arabia,’” Rosborough noted.
A wrinkled cotton hybrid poncho with matching head scarf and an ethereal topcoat in the same fabric also drove the desert theme home. Likewise, a Tencel linen that was frayed to look old — employed for bomber jackets and coats — reinforced that worn-in traveler vibe.
With this effort, Abasi Rosborough continues to make its mark in men’s fashion. “We’ve seen an exodus of big designers this week, but we look at it as an opportunity for new designers to step forward,” Rosborough said.

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Head of State Men’s Spring 2019

For his first runway show, Nigerian-born designer Taofeek Abijako, took inspiration from Afrofuturism and paraded a lineup with a distinct Seventies feel. 
Cue an array of high-waisted cropped and flared pants, fitted sweatshirts and message T-shirts.
The standouts were the flared pants, worn with matching boots, which gave it a New York Seventies vibe. 
Head of State is now part of Groupe, a distribution umbrella formed by James and Gwendolyn Jurney of Seize sur Vingt, which manages and nurtures independent designers and brands. Abijako was the first brand chosen, allowing him to focus strictly on creating the collection while Groupe provides the funding for samples and production.     

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Bode Men’s Spring 2019

Aaron Aujla, owner of Green River Project, a furniture and interiors firm, was Emily Bode’s primary reference point this season. She met Aujla in New York and they’ve previously worked together on other projects. (He’s created all of the furniture for Bode’s presentations.)
For her collection, Bode drew from Aujla’s lineage. His family is from India, but he grew up in British Columbia. Bode has always outsourced her embroidery and embellishment work in India, but this season she worked with more Indian textiles that had historical significance. She made suits from Khadi towels, an Indian fabric and developed another suit from India’s government subsidized mill prints.
Bode said the Khadi fabric has a connection to Mahatma Gandhi’s self-reliance movement, which urged Indians to bring weaving back into the home as opposed to buying these goods from other countries.
Highlights included a white fringed button-up shirt made of chenille, a pair of floral print high-waisted pants constructed from curtain fabric, and a bright yellow matching set printed with a village motif that consisted of a crepe de chine shirt and duchesse-satin pants.
The furniture was influenced by Indian filmmaker Satyajit Ray’s 1966 “Nayak,” which was filmed on a train, and each of the pieces were

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Ricardo Seco Men’s Spring 2019

The 50th anniversary of the Mexico City Olympics served as the jumping off point for Ricardo Seco’s spring men’s collection.

The designer used stripes and optical illusions along with the late Sixties font and Olympics rings to pay homage to the 1968 Games. These graphics showed up in bombers, T-shirts and track pants that Seco reimagined in bright colors or vibrant black and white.

More contemporary visual elements such as cell phones and skates were used as accents inside jackets while the current immigration crisis was referenced by large DACA lettering on T-shirts and socks. Seco also went back to the beginning of the Black Power movement by using the now-famous fist symbol on tops.

The overall vibe of the collection felt upbeat despite the political references.

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Reconstruct Collective Men’s Spring 2019

Reconstruct Collective, consisting of five female designers, began out of necessity. After learning that the Willem de Kooning Academy wasn’t able to put on a fashion show for its graduating class, students banded together to organize their own show. And in order to raise money for the show, they needed to form a business with the chamber of commerce. Because they worked so well together, Laura Aanen, Alyssa Groeneveld, Kim Kivits, Michelle Lievaart and Sanne Verkleij decided to start a collective shortly after graduating. Now three collections in, the Amsterdam-based company opted to show in New York, which Groeneveld said made sense for the brand, which caters to the youth.
For spring the unisex line was based on a fictional place called Planet Re-4 and the fictional characters that live there. The lineup, which Groeneveld said falls between streetwear and couture, was made up of reconstructions of sporty pieces. They presented cropped bubble vests and matching miniskirts, wide-leg nylon pants decorated with multiple drawstrings or reflective material, cropped tank tops with the Re-4 logo and jackets made from strips of fabric. The waistbands displayed a graphic Reconstruct logo. They also reconfigured Converse tracksuits and pieces from The New Originals, an Amsterdam-based

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Public School Men’s Spring 2019

Call it Public School part two.
On the final night of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, the streetwear-skewed brand held a party and presentation at a space on Howard Street in Chinatown with its theme kept under wraps until the doors opened.
“This is our space,” said Dao-Yi Chow, who designs the label with Maxwell Osborne. “This will be our first retail store and this is a soft launch of the space.”
Throughout the location were mannequins dressed in the new collection — although Chow said the description “needs an asterisk by ‘new.’ Everything is recycled, upcycled or dead stock,” he said, and is intended to represent our new philosophy.”
While the philosophy may be new, the lineup revisited the duo’s greatest hits.
They revisited collaborations with like-minded brands including Eileen Fisher, whose dead-stock silks became striped pajama-inspired ensembles; Levi’s, whose vintage denim was reworked into cropped trucker jackets, and Alpha Industries military fabrics made into sleek outerwear.
“It’s very much the foundation and our past and then looking into the future,” Osborne added.
The collection reflected that with a clear example being a supersharp black suit with built-in cargo pockets and statement zippers. A short-sleeve jumpsuit — also part of their DNA — was so elegant

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Todd Snyder Men’s Spring 2019

Todd Snyder closed New York Fashion Week: Men’s on a high note, sending out a feel-good collection full of bright colors and a youthful attitude that he titled “The American Tourist.”
“I played a lot with a mix of sartorial and campy references,” he said backstage before the show, where truffle popcorn and beer was served.
The opening look set the tone for the collection: a yellow T-shirt with a photo of a Waffle House that was taken by folk rocker Gerry Beckley of the group America. A series, all shot by the musician, are to make their debut for spring.
Snyder, the king of collaborations, unveiled other partnerships at the show including a line of terry-cloth bucket hats with Kangol, high-top tie-dye sneakers with Novesta, and perhaps the most striking, archival Hawaiian prints from Reyn Spooner that he used most successfully on an updated suit. “It’s the modern leisure suit,” he said.
His longtime partnership with Champion was also on display in bomber jackets, paneled sweatshirts and underwear. It even appeared as a side stripe on a plaid patterned suit.
Another play on the Americana theme came with the introduction of a new logo — “Snyder’s” in retro block letters — that he used

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The Cons and Pros of Shrunken NYFW: Men’s

Good riddance July. Now American men’s designers can only hope things get better next June.
Todd Snyder wrapped up the spring 2019 edition of New York Fashion Week: Men’s on Wednesday night with an upbeat show that embraced America — and proved to be one of the handful of shows that could legitimately compete with those in London, Florence, Milan or Paris. Otherwise, the three-day affair continued to be devoid of most of American fashion’s major names and was a haphazard mix of shows and presentations that often lacked energy, generated little buzz and continued to raise questions over where New York fits into the men’s calendar.
But the Council of Fashion Designers of America, the organizer, is hoping to resuscitate things next summer when it moves the show dates to align with women’s resort in early June — before the London men’s shows start.
Holding the men’s and women’s shows at the same time worked well for the men’s brands in February when the CFDA staged a successful 10-day dual-gender fashion week, with the men’s-only or men’s-heavy brands kicking off the week. That’s the plan for this coming February as well.
And although the June women’s resort shows are not as established as

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Romeo Hunte Men’s Spring 2019

Romeo Hunte didn’t make any friends in his men’s runway debut in New York. His choice of a site away from the other venues and the complete chaos in the lobby of the Dream Downtown Hotel with hundreds of people attempting to access elevators to get to the rooftop site was bad enough. The fact that his team couldn’t get its act together to start his show until nearly an hour after it was planned had everyone eyeing the exits before the first look came out.
Once the show finally started, it was clear that Hunte had an underwater sports adventure as his overriding theme. He used neoprene from diving wetsuits that he reimagined as performance vests in bright colors and cropped jackets with exaggerated necklines.

Camo prints in cargo pants and bombers and the use of safety orange enhanced the streetwear flair. But while the line showed some promise, there were several missteps, including poorly executed tailoring and some unfortunate sequined embellished sweatshirts. But apart from that, the collection was youthful and carefree.

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Ted Baker to Introduce Men’s Underwear, Lounge, Sleep

Ted Baker is entering the innerwear category.
The apparel company, which is based in London, has signed a five-year licensing agreement with Delta Galil to develop, produce and distribute men’s innerwear.
“I am delighted to collaborate with Delta Galil as Ted’s exclusive underwear and loungewear partner,” said Ricky Green, global wholesale director at Ted Baker. “We’re excited to introduce the collection to all markets and work together closely to develop the products.”
The collection will span men’s underwear, loungewear and thermal base layers and pajama sets and will launch in spring 2019.
“Ted Baker is well-known for its high-quality fabrics and distinctive designs, and we are very excited to partner with the brand and expand it into new categories,” said Isaac Dabah, chief executive officer of Delta Galil. “This partnership represents a significant opportunity for Delta Galil to grow its global portfolio of premium brands, as Ted Baker’s elevated apparel resonates with men across the world.”
Ted Baker currently operates 21 other licensing agreements that include fragrance, homewares and tailoring.

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Death to Tennis Men’s Spring 2019

Summertime was the prevailing theme for William Watson and Vincent Oshin, the duo behind Death to Tennis. The designers, who are both British, were feeling nostalgic and a bit homesick so they looked to old beachside photographs to inform their lineup, which they said is one of their most colorful collections to date.
They leaned into the old and new, utilizing a color palette consisting of royal blue, purple, yellow, olive red and navy that brought to mind Ralph Lauren and Cross Colours from the Nineties.
These colors lent new life to core items such as graphic T-shirts, hoodies and the McCarthy jacket, which Justin Bieber popularized. They showed these signatures alongside cargo pants with minimal pockets, boxy button-up shirts, cotton parkas and shirt jackets. A long, hooded, colorblocked parka that grazed the ground was a standout.
The suit or matching set was another primary component. Models wore tracksuits, relaxed cotton suits and boxy shirts styled with slightly baggy pants. It was a nice take on tailored pieces that felt hip but not too trendy.
Death to Tennis is known for its original prints and this season it presented a camo pattern, a polo motif and a paint-splattered print.
Last season, the brand put on a

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Kenneth Nicholson Men’s Spring 2019

Kenneth Nicholson pulls from a varied bag of interests. The Houston native is as motivated by 18th-century dress as he is by outfits from “Soul Train” and military uniforms — after attending the Academy of Art in San Francisco, Nicholson spent a one-year stint in the Navy before he was honorably discharged. But his overall interest is in expanding the boundaries of men’s wear.
“Historically, men haven’t been restricted to just a shirt and pants. They’ve had more options,” Nicholson said. “I like to edify people and shake things up.”
He divided his collection into three chapters. The first chapter was a stark white, which Nicholson said was void of color to express sadness. Models wore cotton and linen long-sleeved shirtdresses with subtle swing hems, white lace shirts paired with cream high-waisted pants, and a brocade jacket with an exaggerated lapel coupled with a matching skirt. References to royalty were sprinkled throughout the lineup. Some models wore sashes, others wore crowns and a couple of the more structured, beaded looks with mock necks, nipped waists and peplums, which were highlights from the collection, brought to mind regalness.
The second chapter, which signaled better memories and featured more color, was the strongest. Nicholson doubled

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N. Hoolywood Men’s Spring 2019

This season, the N. Hoolywood designer Daisuke Obana delivered a lineup inspired by Native American artist T.C. Cannon, whose work he discovered during a recent trip to Arizona.
“The lines and the bold colors in the artist’s paintings were what drew me to them,” he said backstage, pointing to an array of blanket-like pieces, often paired with matching oversize shorts. This graphic inspiration was seen in everything from cropped bomber jackets and knitwear with fringe across the chest to oversize pants.
An added surprise was Obana’s collaboration with sportswear brand Umbro. It spanned logo T-shirts, long-sleeved soccer jerseys and elongated coats adorned with oversize Umbro logos done up in bright colors with vertical lines that tied back to Cannon’s paintings.
With their mix of deconstruction and surprising proportions, Obana’s Japanese silhouettes seamlessly blended the worlds of artisanal and active sport.

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New York Fashion Week: Men’s Inspirations

As the men’s show season enters its final lap, New York designers are prepared to embrace classic tailoring, the Mayan Riviera, the cool skater boy and even state fairs.

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Parke & Ronen Men’s Spring 2019

Leave it to Parke & Ronen to transport tired, hot New Yorkers to a beach in Malibu on a Tuesday afternoon in July.
“It’s all about L.A., baby,” said codesigner Parke Lutter backstage before the show.
He and Ronen Jehezkel trotted out a lovely array of pastel colors, floral prints and retro graphic stripes on swimwear, coverups and short-sleeve sweaters.
“We threw in a little Eighties vibe — we were listening to the Go-Go’s,” Lutter said, adding that the silhouette this season was classic but modernized with a little higher waist and more of a boxy feel.
The sheer shirts and pajama sets spoke of the leisurely lifestyle while the sleeveless hooded sweatshirts pushed a more athletic vibe.
With a soundtrack that included Lady Gaga’s “Boys, Boys, Boys” and Rod Stewart’s “Do You Think I’m Sexy,” Parke & Ronen proved that even after 21 years, they can still get a crowd energized while building on a successful business.

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Wood House Army Men’s Spring 2019

Since starting his brand two years ago, Julian Woodhouse, a former first lieutenant in the U.S. Army, and husband and codesigner Kirill Kabachenko have sought to create a uniform for their fashion army each season. This time around, the uniform was a mixture of Eighties BMX suits as well as a more-ethereal feel inspired by the rebirth of a phoenix.
The duo had spent two months in Asia and Woodhouse said the vision for the season came to him during a meditation.
The use of silk — a first for the brand — in airy parkas and ultralight cargo pants helped add a spiritual side to the collection while the motor racing references gave the lineup a tough edge.
The color palette of oranges and burnt reds together with the painterly phoenix print also combined to give an Eastern feel.
For its runway debut, Wood House Army’s mix of spirituality, athleticism and street edge proved to be a successful formula.

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Independents’ Day: Canada’s Harry Rosen Has Owned the Men’s Market for Decades

TORONTO — Harry Rosen has a lock on the Canadian men’s wear market, but that hold hasn’t come without a lot of hard work.
The company was founded in 1954 by Harry and his brother Lou Rosen in a small storefront in Toronto to provide made-to-measure suits for men. The firm has since grown into a 300 million Canadian dollar ($ 228.3 million), 18-store chain with locations in the seven largest cities around the country and some 1,000 employees.
Although Harry stepped back from the day-to-day operation of the business in 2005, he still serves as an ambassador, often stopping by one of the stores to chat with customers. But he left the company in good hands: as chief executive officer since 2000, his son Larry Rosen has built on his father’s legacy. Waiting in the wings is Ian Rosen, Larry’s son, who is joining the family business this summer to oversee its digital marketing initiatives, and at the same time, ensure the eventual transition to the next generation will be seamless.
But Harry Rosen has also branched out beyond its core business, teaming up with Ermenegildo Zegna to open flagship stores for the luxury Italian label in Canada. In August, a 3,000-square-foot Zegna

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Feng Chen Wang Men’s Spring 2019

Feng Chen Wang thought about the word “half” and what it means for human connection.
The show started with an opening of the curtains, which streamed sunlight into the dark space and emphasized the collection’s vivid color palette, which Wang said was meant to convey a range of human emotions.
The opening looks came in an icy blue gradient — sad — and progressed into an iridescent green and a warm hot pink — happy. Things ended with shades of black and gray, which Wang said played on black and white and the idea of half, or yin and yang.
The garments were amalgamations of sportswear basics. Wang placed double collars on long trenchcoats and pieced together two Levi’s jackets to make one. She did the same thing with Converse sneakers by adding an extra sole and merging two sneaker halves together. An extra leg was added to jeans and the more dramatic pieces consisted of collared shirts and trenchcoats that were draped on top of each other and fell down to the floor.
Some of these pieces revealed the heart, another means to depict feelings. Wang discovered that different sentiments lead to different body temperatures and she presented PVC pieces to highlight the

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Dyne Men’s Spring 2019

Christopher Bevans has become skillful at morphing super high-tech fabrics and performance designs with fashion silhouettes that reflect today’s trends. And that was especially evident in his spring presentation for Dyne, which he titled “Future Nomad.”
“We’re bringing our love of the outdoors in the Pacific Northwest to the city we grew up in,” said the New York-born designer.

His lineup included a hybrid trenchcoat/anorak with side zippers that looked light as a feather yet had all the necessary performance elements.

Other standouts included an ultralight navy suit with micro-cargo pockets on the sleeves that doubled as an embellishment.

“It’s all about survival skills,” he said.

The use of tie-dye — this season’s omnipresent print — in technical fabrics complemented the painterly abstract print used in paneling strips.

Bevans also stood out from others this season by embedding his well-known near-field communication chip into the garments and allowing the invited show guests to place orders on the spot for pieces from the spring line. “You can get it in four weeks,” he said, before he ships to retail stores in January.

With American fashion’s propensity for performance athleticism, Bevans has been able to find the sweet spot between that and contemporary fashion.

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Public School to Participate in NYFW: Men’s

Public School will be participating in New York Fashion Week: Men’s — but exactly what the brand is planning to do is being kept under wraps.
On Friday, the New York-based men’s and women’s label founded by Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne sent out an invite to an event Wednesday night in TriBeCa. The invitation, which also had the branding for Moët & Chandon, read: “A piece of ground that belonged to them, on which they could plant their feet, permanency.” The designers had created special bottles for the spirits brand that were unveiled during New York Fashion Week last September.
A spokesman for the company declined to provide further details on Wednesday’s event.
In December, the designers said they would be taking a break from showing their collection during NYFW in February as “the company is in the midst of stepping away from the traditional industry format and launching a new direct-to-consumer concept.” The company said details would be shared in advance of the launch later this year and that the brand would be “refining” its product assortment, “delivery cadence,” and restructuring it organization.
According to retailers who had carried the line, the final Public School wholesale collection was shipped for spring.

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Amid Men’s Wear Hype, Thoughtful Basics Are Making Noise, Too

It’s all about simplicity.
At a time when streetwear is dominating the conversation in the world of men’s fashion, there are a number of brands that are quietly building sizable businesses selling updated basics to guys who don’t live and die for the latest Supreme drop or Virgil Abloh sneaker collaboration.
Brands such as Buck Mason, Everlane, Goodlife and Huckberry are making inroads selling these items, which could be labeled “everyday casualwear” or “essentials.”
In years past, their customers probably bought their chinos, T-shirts and hoodies in department stores or specialty retailers such as Gap or Banana Republic. But today, they’re increasingly seeking out other options and spending their money on brands they feel better address their needs.
“They offer simple solutions,” said Wendy Liebmann, chief executive officer of WSL, a global strategy consultancy. “When you look at all the new businesses that are cropping up, they address the fundamental issue in the industry, which is that men are looking for something reasonable to wear that is comfortable and stylish.”
Liebmann believes the “increased lack of service” at department and large specialty stores, coupled with the “enormous” assortment offered “without curation,” is what is driving men to indie brands that are trend-right but not overwhelming.

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Industry Adapts to Shifting Milan Men’s Fashion Week

MILAN — A shrinking show calendar, currency volatility and macro economic issues at the tail end of a period of local political instability following Italy’s general elections were only some of the concerns weighing on executives on the eve of Milan Men’s Fashion Week.
But on the upside, business is chugging along steadily. Revenues generated by the fashion sector last year grew 2.5 percent to 64.8 billion euros, and exports rose 4.3 percent to 50 billion euros, according to Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana’s Fashion Economic Trends report issued in May. The first half is expected to show 1.5 percent growth in sales compared with the same period last year. Last week, the updated Altagamma Worldwide Market Monitor and Bain & Co. study painted a pretty picture, as the global personal luxury goods industry is expected to grow 6 to 8 percent at constant exchange compared with the 5 percent growth forecast last October for 2018.
“Everyone is hoping to see a modicum of stability, which would allow us to set goals in the medium-term, invest in three-year plans without this sense of anxiety hovering over us,” said Paolo Roviera, chief executive officer of Corneliani. Roviera admitted that business had been affected in the first

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Manolo Blahnik Adds Heat to London With Men’s Store Opening

MANOLO MADNESS: The temperature was soaring inside London’s Burlington Arcade on Wednesday night, but the guests — not surprisingly — refused to go home. They were there to mark the opening of fashion footwear doyen Manolo Blahnik’s first men’s store, an Edwardian jewel of a space, and they were in a joyous mood.
Blahnik, who was looking cool in a sky-blue suit and artfully undone bow tie with stripes, played host to press, stylists, fellow luxury retailers and industry investors at the Mayfair arcade, which had been closed off for the night.
Evangeline Blahnik, the designer’s sister and an architect of the business, and her daughter Kristina Blahnik, the company’s chief executive officer, mingled in the arcade, which had been lined with flower carts showcasing the men’s shoes and a rainbow of colored paper lanterns ahead of the Pride in London parade on Saturday.
There were do-it-yourself ice cream sundae and cotton candy stalls, while guests drank Pimm’s, Britain’s fruity (but alcoholic) summer drink, and Champagne and dipped into icy buckets filled with oysters. At the entrance, dapper men passed out copies of The Blahnik Chronicles, a newspaper dedicated to the designer and his style.
Features included “The Gospel According to Manolo,” with rules to

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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IMG Launches Men’s Division in Milan

MILAN — And then IMG Models created the man.
The Italian branch of the international model agency has launched a men’s division, elevating IMG Models as global agency offering both men’s and women’s representation services in all of its offices, located in key cities as New York, Los Angeles, London, Sydney and Paris, along with Milan.
Established in April — following the launch in Paris just a few months before — the opening of the men’s division in Italy reflects the company’s investment in the European market and it’s aimed to better serve regional clients and partners with localized support.
“We definitely opened some years late, but the fact is IMG’s men’s division reopened four years ago and we launched New York first, through a small staff, to see if there were the premises to do well there, which is still the most important market in terms of volume,” said Andrea Cairo, managing director of IMG Models Italy.
Cairo explained that after New York, the first European men’s division debuted in London, and the company preferred to consolidate its position in those two locations “and understand if a presence was necessary in Italy and France, both for models and our clients.”
Another delaying aspect was

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Cartoon Network to Sponsor NYFW: Men’s

The Council of Fashion Designers of America is forging a relationship with Cartoon Network.
The network will provide support for the shows and the CFDA connected the company with Ryohei Kawanishi of Landlord, who will design a capsule collection based on “Adventure Time,” a popular animated series.
Instead of just producing a one-off capsule collection, Kawanishi said he has also integrated themes from the series into his main line, which will show during NYFW: Men’s on July 9.
“I wanted to make a mental connection with what’s going on in the cartoons,” said Kawanishi, who usually designs based on distinct themes ranging from Rastafarianism to southern hip-hop.
Cartoon Network has played in the fashion space before via collaborations with brands including Moschino, Champion and Rook, but Pete Yoder, vice president of Cartoon Network Enterprises, North America, said these collaborations have become a bigger focus for the company, which is why it has partnered with the CFDA.
“It’s a huge priority for us because we want to address our fan base with the more traditional licensed product that’s more accessible, but we also want to give our super fans something special that they can call their own,” Yoder said. “Partnering with the CFDA is a great way to gain access to this

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Paris Men’s Week: Ones to Watch

Cmmn Swdn, Boramy Viguier and GEYM figure among a selection of rising brands on the week’s official men’s calendar and presentation lineup. And Davide Marello, the former creative director of Boglioli, will unveil his latest project, Davi, which is heavy on printed shirts, in Paris on Thursday.
Undercover, which presented its fall 2018 men’s collection in one of the guests spots at Pitti Uomo in January, will also present on the official men’s calendar for the first time, along with Alyx, which was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize in 2016. Check out a selection of the names set to present.

A shoe from the Cmmn brand. 
Dominique MAITRE

Cmmn Swdn
For their debut show on the official Paris Men’s Week calendar, Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund are doing their bit to protest against the mountain of waste the fashion industry is sitting on; to slow things down again and get back to the roots of fashion.
The show is scheduled to take place Tuesday at the Les Ateliers, the École nationale supérieure de création industrielle, a French design school located in Paris’ 11th arrondissement.
Founded in 2012 in Malmo, Sweden, Cmmn Swdn is based between Sweden and London where it showed for six seasons before moving to present in

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Rochas Names Federico Curradi to Head Men’s Fashion

Rochas has named a new creative director for its men’s wear activity, which it put on hold last year after only two seasons.
The Interparfums-owned fashion house said Italian designer Federico Curradi will be charged with bringing “a new attitude” to Rochas men’s wear going forward. The brand is expected to relaunch in January 2019.
“I am sure Rochas can find its own place in the men’s wear industry and Federico has the talent to bring Rochas to a next level,” stated Interparfums Group and Rochas chief executive officer Philippe Benacin.
Curradi, a native of Florence, launched his own men’s wear label, which shows in Milan, in January 2016 at Pitti Uomo. The designer, who lives in the Florentine countryside, is also creative director of outerwear specialist Peuterey. Born in Florence in 1975, after living in New York for several years he moved back to Italy, first working at Ermanno Daelli, then as head of the men’s styling office at Ermanno Scervino and later becoming head of the men’s collection of Roberto Cavalli in 2005. A year later, he began working at Iceberg on the company’s men’s wear as a consultant. He was also Iceberg’s first men’s wear creative director, succeeded by James

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Stalvey to Launch Men’s Accessories

A favorite accessory brand of Beyoncé and Gigi Hadid is going to be available for men.
Stalvey, an exotic skin accessories collection created by Jason Stalvey and popular with many female celebrities, will launch its first men’s collection for fall.
The inaugural lineup, which will include duffels, backpacks, caps and small leather goods, will be exclusive to Moda Operandi, an upscale e-commerce site that just expanded into men’s wear this month.
Stalvey, who has a background in science and medicine, launched his women’s line with Barneys New York in the fall of 2014, and it’s currently offered there as well as at The Webster, Harrods, Lane Crawford and other upscale retailers.
But while he’s made his mark in women’s wear, it’s actually men’s where he got his start.
Stalvey said that while his background wasn’t in fashion, he got into the business after being unable to find an alligator skin duffel bag that fit his needs. “I thought, it can’t be that hard,” he said. “Well, it was that hard.” But he stuck with it, found artisans in the U.S. and Italy that were able to work with exotic skins, and eventually created what he believed to be the perfect duffel. That led to him

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Ludovic de Saint Sernin Men’s Spring 2019

Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s spring collection, the third for his label, was called “Summertime Sadness,” meant to evoke a teen’s melancholy upon leaving a beautiful holiday with an unrequited crush.
The sensual, tight lineup of well-crafted androgynous silhouettes was made of fabrics the designer sourced in Japan. Highlights included a cropped light blue denim jacket with matching low-slung lace-up jeans, a coral-color fluid blouse and trousers, and a black strapless top with languid pants.
De Saint Sernin riffed on his best-selling eyelet briefs for a bralette, and accessorized the line with ceramic charms.
“Most of the collection sells to women,” said the designer, who was a finalist for this year’s LVMH Prize. “I was very niche, this young designer starting out in Paris. And it just put a light on me that was very amazing. I’m super grateful.”
There’s little doubt that the spotlight will keep intensifying.

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Industry Adapts to Shifting Milan Men’s Fashion Week

MILAN — A shrinking show calendar, currency volatility and macro economic issues at the tail end of a period of local political instability following Italy’s general elections were only some of the concerns weighing on executives on the eve of Milan Men’s Fashion Week.
But on the upside, business is chugging along steadily. Revenues generated by the fashion sector last year grew 2.5 percent to 64.8 billion euros, and exports rose 4.3 percent to 50 billion euros, according to Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana’s Fashion Economic Trends report issued in May. The first half is expected to show 1.5 percent growth in sales compared with the same period last year. Last week, the updated Altagamma Worldwide Market Monitor and Bain & Co. study painted a pretty picture, as the global personal luxury goods industry is expected to grow 6 to 8 percent at constant exchange compared with the 5 percent growth forecast last October for 2018.
“Everyone is hoping to see a modicum of stability, which would allow us to set goals in the medium-term, invest in three-year plans without this sense of anxiety hovering over us,” said Paolo Roviera, chief executive officer of Corneliani. Roviera admitted that business had been affected in the first

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Kenzo Men’s Spring 2019

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have turned their performance presentations for Kenzo into something of a tradition. Their coed spring show was no exception, with floral suspensions, a brass band and a laser light show transforming the basement of the Maison de la Mutualité conference center into a magic grotto.
Unfortunately, the clothes they showed didn’t live up to the setting. The brand’s aesthetic, once synonymous with jungle prints and Asian references, has skewed increasingly eclectic of late, with kitschy cool designs that reference the designers’ Californian upbringing.
This lineup was ostensibly informed by summer ceremonies: “gatherings of all sorts and the jubilation of rituals, occasions where New-Romantic hedonists meet British wedding goers and all the in-betweens,” the duo said in their show notes.
Perhaps it was the time slot — the last show on the last day of a marathon men’s fashion week in Paris — but it was hard to pinpoint even a trace of that theme, except for the graphic rose pattern that was a recurrent motif.
Rather, the men’s lineup revolved around a sporty silhouette grounded in acid-bright colors and oversized volumes. A vibrant blue suit with extra-large drawstring pants was paired with a trompe-l’oeil T-shirt depicting an open shirt

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Clot Men’s Spring 2019

Clot pulled the cool crowd – the likes of Don Crawley, Sacai’s Chitose Abe and Francesco Ragazzi from Palm Angels – for its latest Paris presentation in the city’s Marais district.  The design duo installed a series of makeshift stands and food stalls to approximate the atmosphere of the iconic Temple and Market streets in Hong Kong’s Kowloon district.
Edison Chen said he and his partner Kevin Poon are scouting a permanent retail space in Paris. “Our L.A. store is opening in two weeks and then we have Paris, Tokyo, New York and San Francisco,” he said.
The Hong Kong-based streetwear label, which this year is celebrating its 15th anniversary, presented updates on its “bread and butter” – silk pajamas in their own prints. “Obviously, we’re Chinese, so the DNA of us is wearing stuff like this,” said Chen.
Also on display was their new T-shirt collection with reworked Asian icons and graphics including a “mind, body and soul” print; travel bags designed in collaboration with Readymade; and a capsule of pieces in custom-made fabrics including military-inspired jackets in a mix of camo and stripes.
Clot also presented a capsule by Pauly Bonomelli, the Australian artist who rose to fashion fame making custom clothing

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Sneakers Rule Men’s Fashion. Even Ugly Sneakers

This past week’s men’s fashion shows in Milan have underlined the sneaker’s continued reign in menswear.
WSJ.com: Lifestyle

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Ann Demeulemeester Men’s Spring 2019

A romantic vibe infused this full-on coed, gender-bending collection filled with loose garments, black flowers and veiled straw hats. It also juxtaposed fabrics, such as silk, lace, linen and leather in breezy silhouettes, and injected hues like pink into Ann Demeulemeester’s traditionally black-and-white color code.
The brand’s creative director Sébastien Munier said he had in mind symbolism, which was birthed in the 19th century when artists pushed back against the industrial revolution.
“Some dreamers, like poets, wanted to express a certain beauty, a certain decadence,” he said, citing in particular the French painter Odilon Redon, whose work was filled with symbolism, and the main character in Joris-Karl Huysmans’ book “À rebours” — a reclusive aesthete and antihero.
It was this extreme idea of beauty that Munier wanted to channel, and it entailed contrasts. Of the spring collection he said: “It is a mix of poor fabric and very rich fabric, and there is a kind of clash in between.” Take for instance the loose white shirt overlayed with a black lace top.
Striped silk, generally used for linings, peaked out from trouser legs or became the main fabric of suiting and shorts, for an inside-out effect.
Genders fused, as a male model sported a knee-length pink

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Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Spring 2019

Boris Bidjan Saberi brushed away the superfluous with his spring collection, training his sights — and design skills — on clothing in its purest forms. With achromatopsia in mind, an unpronounceable term for colorblindness, he worked a palette reduced to tones of grays, blacks and whites. The setting? A raw cement venue. In this pared-down universe, Bidjan Saberi showed what he could do — an awful lot.
Starting with the simplest silhouette, the first look was, in his words, “just a shirt with a back seam, that’s it, just the width of the fabric.” Two long streams of matte, black ribbon — he called it tape — trailed behind. This was what he used to cover seams.
Black coats were outlined by this seam-covering fabric tape, adding a new dimension as well as the optical illusion of something like leather panels. Sleeves were slit open and left to hang over the arms, for a cape-like effect — very cool. Shirts were long, almost becoming dresses, while pants were often short. A long, chunky knit sweater — though less chunky than in springs past — stretched below the knees.
He introduced a new accessory — not a backpack, because it could be worn in

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Rochas Names Federico Curradi to Head Men’s Fashion

Rochas has named a new creative director for its men’s wear activity, which it put on hold last year after only two seasons.
The Interparfums-owned fashion house said Italian designer Federico Curradi will be charged with bringing “a new attitude” to Rochas men’s wear going forward. The brand is expected to relaunch in January 2019.
“I am sure Rochas can find its own place in the men’s wear industry and Federico has the talent to bring Rochas to a next level,” stated Interparfums Group and Rochas chief executive officer Philippe Benacin.
Curradi, a native of Florence, launched his own men’s wear label, which shows in Milan, in January 2016 at Pitti Uomo. The designer, who lives in the Florentine countryside, is also creative director of outerwear specialist Peuterey. Born in Florence in 1975, after living in New York for several years he moved back to Italy, first working at Ermanno Daelli, then as head of the men’s styling office at Ermanno Scervino and later becoming head of the men’s collection of Roberto Cavalli in 2005. A year later, he began working at Iceberg on the company’s men’s wear as a consultant. He was also Iceberg’s first men’s wear creative director, succeeded by James

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Walter Van Beirendonck Men’s Spring 2019

Walter Van Beirendonck titled his quirky collection for spring Wild Is the Wind, and wild it was — with skeleton, donkey and bird prints, V signs for peace, clogs and slogans like “Trans Human,” “Hell to the Liars” and “Riot!” Often a man with a message, many of the Belgian designer’s trademarks popped up again this season.
Deconstruction, for instance, abounded, starting with the first look that included a skimpy vest made of lemon-yellow webbing and patches. One featured an imaginary polka-dotted creature with the words “loving the alien” and another read: “It’s only a story/it’s not real/don’t Worry/there IS a happy ENDING.”
The webbing, bringing to mind fetishism, workmen’s garb and streetwear, decorated many garments. And often that was blended with more sartorial elements. Take, for example, the checkered suit featuring orange webbing.
In hallmark Van Beirendonck style, every piece was finely crafted, with standouts including outerwear, such as raincoats, suit jackets and bombers. Sometimes, though, the riot of prints, patterns and colorblocking stole the show.

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Spirit Animals Converge at Valentino Spring 2019 Men’s Show

ANIMAL MAGNETISM: Valentino’s front row was a veritable jungle, crawling with animals in body — and in spirit. Pierpaolo Piccioli asked four famous friends of the house — A$ AP Ferg, Nas, Keith Ape and Syd tha Kyd — to reveal their spirit animal, and he used the beasts as motifs on clothing and accessories in the patterned, logo-ed and color-packed men’s collection.
“My spirit is the black panther — a strong, fast, powerful animal,” said A$ AP Ferg, who certainly stood out in the crowd on Wednesday afternoon. He was wearing a canary yellow suit and bedecked in diamonds from his front teeth down to his wrists and fingers.
“I change them every time I change my outfits,” said the musician of the sparkling crowns on his teeth. “They’re white gold with diamonds. I was going to go for yellow gold, to match my outfit, but then decided against it.”
He said he’s been working with Tiffany & Co. on jewelry, such as pendants and bracelets, and is also getting to work on a new album with a “huge producer, who the world loves,” although he wouldn’t give up the name.
“I’m a lion, I rule the jungle,” said fellow front-row guest Nas, who has

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Paris Men’s Week: Ones to Watch

Cmmn Swdn, Boramy Viguier and GEYM figure among a selection of rising brands on the week’s official men’s calendar and presentation lineup. And Davide Marello, the former creative director of Boglioli, will unveil his latest project, Davi, which is heavy on printed shirts, in Paris on Thursday.
Undercover, which presented its fall 2018 men’s collection in one of the guests spots at Pitti Uomo in January, will also present on the official men’s calendar for the first time, along with Alyx, which was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize in 2016. Check out a selection of the names set to present.

A shoe from the Cmmn brand. 
Dominique MAITRE

Cmmn Swdn
For their debut show on the official Paris Men’s Week calendar, Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund are doing their bit to protest against the mountain of waste the fashion industry is sitting on; to slow things down again and get back to the roots of fashion.
The show is scheduled to take place Tuesday at the Les Ateliers, the École nationale supérieure de création industrielle, a French design school located in Paris’ 11th arrondissement.
Founded in 2012 in Malmo, Sweden, Cmmn Swdn is based between Sweden and London where it showed for six seasons before moving to present in

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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Dondup Men’s Spring 2019

Urban trekking was the theme at Dondup, as the design team added a utilitarian twist to men’s citywear clothing, experimenting with materials in a shift from technical performance for a collection that was casual with a touch of sportswear. One example was the checked, boxy field jacket with a glass-like coating, which added brilliancy to the colors. The poplin, deconstructed suit was paired with a hooded shirt in chambray, in a nod to ath-leisure.
Dondup reedited its storied Tyvek material from the Fifties with an iridescent effect and a laminated texture used on a raincoat and a maxi fanny pack. Sweatshirts were treated to have a spongy effect and a leather jacket was in Naplak, a lacquered napa generally used in footwear. Colors ranged from royal blue to lime, as well as earthy tones and black.
Denim was done in classic shapes in pure vintage and black, or with chalk coatings. The material used for denim labels, called Jacron, was employed in garment-dyed accessories, such as the green backpack.

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Prada Men’s Spring 2019

Prada’s been splashing the euros: Earlier this month it opened a whizz-bang new industrial complex in Tuscany — and more are on the way — so the brand has got to sell, sell, sell. The collection that Miuccia Prada showed Sunday evening underlined that: The clothes may have been connected in spirit to the women’s resort, but this collection was more about commerce than anything else.
Prada said she was seeking a “more elegant” style for her man, something youthful yet discreet, adding that she’s fed up with baggy sportswear and streetwear. “The silhouette is very lean, clean and elegant,” she said before the show. “I’ve put a lot of different pieces together — serious ones, fun ones, all sorts — but the goal was to construct, to define a youthful, contemporary elegance. They’re simple pieces, and I wanted them to make sense.”
She took a similar tack with the accessories, which ranged from nylon sacks with drawstring ties to big leather weekenders and smaller shoulder bags. Models held them with an iron grip over one shoulder as if to say, “No one’s snatching this Prada, baby,” as they walked past guests who were perched on big, transparent inflatable cubes, a special reedition of

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Neil Barrett Men’s Spring 2019

In an adventurous, sea and surf-faring mood, Neil Barrett, who has a thing about male uniforms, set out to explore the notion of contemporary masculinity, with the collection’s emblem a Hawaiian-style flower that was never girly.
The designer worked photographic treatments of anemones onto utilitarian macs, T-shirts and sweatshirts, placing them at the breast and shoulder in place of military emblems and medals.
Some of the prints had a strong Pop Art feel, others came graphically sliced, with shadowy black prints of the flowers staining a range of looks. But mainly it added a surf vibe, opening the gates for a strong water-sport theme.
Barrett in this highly wearable collection mixed his usual color palette of sand, beige, navy, gray and black with bright colors associated with surfwear.
His signature Nineties aesthetic was intact, folding in scuba underlayers and jackets inspired by the hi-tech dry suits worn by deep sea divers. The cut of the trenches, with their dropped shoulders and rounded shapes, were even based on their lines.
The designer sprinkled in sure-sell cargo pants cut like joggers, and cool dressier looks, like a gray tux with a Nineties fit.
Moving between urban and sportswear moods, the outerwear was ever strong and plentiful, with the

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IMG Launches Men’s Division in Milan

MILAN — And then IMG Models created the man.
The Italian branch of the international model agency has launched a men’s division, elevating IMG Models as global agency offering both men’s and women’s representation services in all of its offices, located in key cities as New York, Los Angeles, London, Sydney and Paris, along with Milan.
Established in April — following the launch in Paris just a few months before — the opening of the men’s division in Italy reflects the company’s investment in the European market and it’s aimed to better serve regional clients and partners with localized support.
“We definitely opened some years late, but the fact is IMG’s men’s division reopened four years ago and we launched New York first, through a small staff, to see if there were the premises to do well there, which is still the most important market in terms of volume,” said Andrea Cairo, managing director of IMG Models Italy.
Cairo explained that after New York, the first European men’s division debuted in London, and the company preferred to consolidate its position in those two locations “and understand if a presence was necessary in Italy and France, both for models and our clients.”
Another delaying aspect was

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Amid Men’s Wear Hype, Thoughtful Basics Are Making Noise, Too

It’s all about simplicity.
At a time when streetwear is dominating the conversation in the world of men’s fashion, there are a number of brands that are quietly building sizable businesses selling updated basics to guys who don’t live and die for the latest Supreme drop or Virgil Abloh sneaker collaboration.
Brands such as Buck Mason, Everlane, Goodlife and Huckberry are making inroads selling these items, which could be labeled “everyday casualwear” or “essentials.”
In years past, their customers probably bought their chinos, T-shirts and hoodies in department stores or specialty retailers such as Gap or Banana Republic. But today, they’re increasingly seeking out other options and spending their money on brands they feel better address their needs.
“They offer simple solutions,” said Wendy Liebmann, chief executive officer of WSL, a global strategy consultancy. “When you look at all the new businesses that are cropping up, they address the fundamental issue in the industry, which is that men are looking for something reasonable to wear that is comfortable and stylish.”
Liebmann believes the “increased lack of service” at department and large specialty stores, coupled with the “enormous” assortment offered “without curation,” is what is driving men to indie brands that are trend-right but not overwhelming.

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Cos Presents Men’s Capsule Via Wayne McGregor-Choreographed Performance in Florence

LET’S DANCE: What better way to road-test a capsule of men’s wear essentials in movement than a performance based on the subtlety of everyday actions by British choreographer Wayne McGregor?
That was thinking of Karin Gustafsson and Christophe Copin — respectively creative director and newly appointed head of men’s wear at Cos — for bringing to life a soon-to-launch men’s capsule dubbed Soma.
The serene performance, featuring members of McGregor’s company dressed in items from the line, was held on Wednesday in the courtyard of the Istituto Degli Innocenti in Florence, and was followed by a presentation of the capsule at the local Cos flagship. Items included long bias-cut collarless shirts, a minimalist waxed and washed cotton coat with a crisp, papery surface and lightweight tailoring, in a palette limited to white, navy and gray mélange.
A limited quantity of the pieces worn by the dancers went on sale in the Florence store following the event, but the line will launch online internationally in September.
Speaking to WWD, Copin said a lot of fabric research went into the collection, down to “the sound of the fabrics when in movement.” He argued the decision to limit the capsule’s availability to online was to make it

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Blindness Men’s Spring 2019

In a number of ways, the story told in Blindness’ spring collection was of the age-old girl-meets-boy variety.
Exploring the theme of first love, designers Kyu Shin and Ji Park siphoned the maelstrom of emotions triggered by falling in love for the first time into a romantic collection that cleverly riffed on its theme and took the nonbinary trend to new levels of sophistication and drama.
They gracefully intermingled masculine and feminine codes, borrowing details from ultra-manly military dress and elevating them with archly feminine touches. Army great coats were reincarnated in organza, with OTT frills appliquéd across the yoke and hem; a plaid-backed trench came with a scarf of organza ruffles; a frilled Inverness cape (see Sherlock Holmes) had a pretty floral-print capelet and lining, and tough denim sailor pants were worn with a soft blue tie-neck silk shirt.
This being a brand strong on gender fluidity, there were sheer black gowns, a full-length tartan dress, pie crust collars tied around necks, sheer hunting vests, leg of mutton sleeves on the suiting, and studded leather corsetry worn over elaborately cut striped shirts and frilly blouses. In all,
The charming, pearl-embellished eye masks worn by some models were a clever wink at their brand’s

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St. James’s Retailers, Barbour International Take a Streetwear Turn at London Fashion Week Men’s

STREET SMARTS: Traditional men’s wear retailers from Jermyn Street, St. James’s took to the sidewalks of London for their fourth open-air show in a see-now-buy-now format during London Fashion Week Men’s.
New to the fashion week fixture were brands Paul & Shark, Aspinal of London and Grenson. The three brands joined seasoned labels Harvie & Hudson, John Smedley, Lock & Co. and Aquascutum in flexing their sartorial muscles.
The Jermyn Street retailers favored mustard yellow and cornflower blue separates. Bright, colored socks added a pop to traditional looks.

A look from the St. James’s spring 2019 show. 
Courtesy Photo

There were also streetwear staples in the mix, in the form of a camouflage-print windbreaker, a fishnet vest top and laid-back pieces such as cable-knit jumpers, gray track pants and basic T-shirts.
The see-now-buy-now presentation also saw female models dressed in men’s wear. One model wore a dark green slim-fit suit while another showed off a more summer-y look: Navy blue tailored shorts and a relaxed red pullover.
Later in the week, Barbour International showed off streetwear looks, too, incorporating elements from the brand’s classic Bedale jacket and T-shirts with retro-style brand logos.

Barbour International Men’s spring 2019. 
James Mason/WWD

A bright blue filmy jacket had a single-patch pocket that was swiped

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New York Men’s Dates to Move to June in 2019

Don’t get too attached to the July dates for New York Fashion Week: Men’s — they’re changing.
Starting next year, the Council of Fashion Designers of America will shift the dates for the spring men’s shows to the first week in June. This will not only coincide with the fledgling New York women’s resort season, but will also allow American designers to show before their European counterparts.
London has historically kicked off the spring season with shows that start this year on Saturday. That’s followed by Pitti Uomo in Florence, Milan and Paris. For six seasons, NYFW: Men’s has brought up the rear with shows in mid-July.
But a successful mega, 10-day, dual-gender fashion week this past February has prompted the shift starting in 2019.
“The July timing is problematic for a lot of brands,” said Mark Beckham, vice president of marketing for the Council of Fashion Designers of America. “So this will be the last NYFW: Men’s in July.”
In February, he said, the men’s shows will once again be timed to run on the Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday before the women’s calendar starts on Thursday. ”It worked really well,” he said. But the spring shows will now start before London.
“The designers are really

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A-Cold-Wall Men’s Spring 2019

Samuel Ross’ brand A-Cold-Wall is continually seeking to expand the fashion vernacular by playing with new proportions and alternative ideas of beauty. Ross’ latest collection was presented as an immersive performance at the Old Truman Brewery that was conceptual — but not necessarily accessible.
Guests were advised to put on protective goggles, masks and earplugs monogrammed with the brand’s acronym that were handed out at the door. Wind turbines and haze created a doomed, dystopian atmosphere, and the show began with a group of actors wearing hooded smocks and chalk-painted skin storming down the runway. Models showcasing the collection followed.
Utilitarian sportswear has been the foundation of the brand and this season, Ross purged it of its traditional aesthetic. He took the basis of sportswear, deconstructed it and morphed each piece into new silhouettes. Included were cropped outerwear in thick layers of transparent PVC paired with pouches that wrapped across the bodies. Puffy vests were deconstructed and held together by seatbelt webbing and clip closures. He did the same with down jackets, which he dissected and laced back together with metallic silver leather with asymmetric sleeves, and cargo shorts and pants featured oversized pockets that distorted the silhouette.
“It’s really art,” Ross said

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Matthew Miller Men’s Spring 2019

When K-Swiss, the California-based footwear brand, approached Matthew Miller wanting to work on a collaboration, he had one condition: The resulting ready-to-wear had to be made using the technology he’d recently discovered that could turn garments destined for the landfill into new fabric.
“I discovered this (recycling) tech, but as a small designer, I wasn’t big enough to utilize it because it’s hydro-powered and we had to do a certain amount of (volume) to make it environmentally viable,” said Miller. Around the same time, he came upon a cache of about 10,000 band T-shirts that were destined for the landfill.
They were later funneled into the K-Swiss collaboration, a streetwear collection of mostly tracksuits and Ts that appeared on the catwalk along with the designer’s signature line.
For the main collection, Miller mined his background as a frequent flier at some of Britain’s most renowned late-Nineties clubs. “I wanted it to feel like an underground movement, almost like what a club scene would have been like 20 years ago, where you get all these different characters. But they’re all into one thing — the music or the scene,” he said.
Those ideas translated into a confident collection that felt more upbeat than previous seasons, with pops of neon or

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OzoneSocks – Fathers Day Savings! Take 25% Off All Mens Socks PLUS Free Shipping On Orders Over $25 at OzoneSocks.com. Use code: FATHERS25, Offer Valid 6/7 – 6/11. Does not include SOTMC or Mystery Bundle.

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Men’s Trend 2018: All the Right Moves

Aerodynamic constructions and performance fabrics give classic men’s briefs a freewheeling élan.

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OzoneSocks – Fathers Day Savings! Take 25% Off All Mens Socks PLUS Free Shipping On Orders Over $25 at OzoneSocks.com. Use code: FATHERS25, Offer Valid 6/7 – 6/11. Does not include SOTMC or Mystery Bundle.

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Men’s Wear Veteran Don Witkowski Dies at 66

Don Witkowski, who held key positions in men’s wear for several high-profile brands including Michael Kors and John Varvatos, died Monday morning at his home in Water Mill, N.Y. He was 66.
The cause of death was glioblastoma, which was diagnosed in March, according to his husband, Robert Wallace.
Witkowski worked in the men’s industry for more than a quarter-century, holding stints at Barneys New York, Merona, Jeffrey Banks, Polo Jeans, DKNY, Nautica and John Varvatos. He spent two tours of duty with Michael Kors, most recently as president of the company’s men’s division.
Ironically, a dozen of Witkowski’s best industry friends met for dinner on Sunday night in hopes of connecting with him one last time. Attendees included Varvatos, Banks and Mindy Grossman, now chief executive officer of Weight Watchers.
“We knew Don was in the last stages of life,” Banks said, “and we thought if we could all get together for dinner, we could use an iPad to tell him how much we loved him.”
Unfortunately, Witkowski was too ill to participate, Banks said. “So we all got together to grieve and tell stories about Don. It was quite wonderful — we laughed and we cried, but we celebrated him.”
Banks said he met

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Nordstrom Snags Mr Porter’s Sam Lobban for New Men’s Role

Men’s wear continues to be a key focus for Nordstrom.
Two months after opening its first men’s-only store in New York City, Nordstrom has named Mr Porter executive Sam Lobban vice president of men’s designer and new concepts.
This new position is intended to “evolve the retailer’s men’s business,” the company said, and will support men’s merchandising, marketing, content development, store environment, private label and the shopping experience as it relates to men’s wear.
Lobban’s first day will be Tuesday and he will be based in New York. He will report to Pete Nordstrom, copresident of Nordstrom, with a dotted line to Paige Thomas, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s wear.
Jeffrey Kalinsky, Nordstrom’s vice president and designer fashion director, introduced Pete Nordstrom to Lobban about a year ago, saying: “Here is a talented person you need to meet.”
For three years, Lobban has been buying manager for Mr Porter — the U.K. equivalent of divisional merchandise manager. He has been with the men’s division of Net-a-porter for seven years, starting as a member of the launch team and serving as senior buyer and buyer over the course of his career.
During his tenure, he was responsible for overseeing the Exclusive Capsule Collection

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Has the U.S. men’s national team lost its fight?

ESPN FC talked to 18 former and current players and staff about what happened during the 2018 World Cup qualifiers — and about how everything eventually fell apart.
www.espn.com – TOP
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9 Insider Men’s Style Tips From Neo-Soul Singer Leon Bridges

The musician—known for his superior fashion sense—on where to buy the best white T-shirts, affordable gold watches and pieces that will set you apart from the pack.
WSJ.com: Lifestyle

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L.A.-Based Mother Denim to Add Men’s Range in Ron Herman, Online

Mother denim, the eight-year-old Los Angeles-based premium denim brand, is adding men to the mix. Launching next week, the 10-piece collection ranges in price from $ 95 to $ 325 retail.
“Men’s has always been something we’ve wanted to do and it was more a matter of ‘when’ rather than ‘what if.’ After developing our women’s Mother Superior line, which is based loosely on men’s vintage fits and fabrics, launching men’s was a natural evolution,” said Tim Kaeding, cofounder and creative director of Mother.
The Made in L.A. line has long borrowed from the boys for its women’s designs, from the early boyfriend jeans and denim shirts, to the unisex Love Your Other collection to its most recent line, Mother Superior, which is known for oversize silhouettes. Keading’s extensive personal collection of men’s denim, as well as other men’s jeans, patterns and fabrics have figured into all of the pieces.
The men’s line includes three jean silhouettes in four washes, all inspired by libations and the bar scene: The Joint (a skinny jean), The Neat (tapered straight leg) and The Chaser (a universal straight). There’s also a denim jacket and shirt, a twill trouser, a graphic printed shirt, plain and logo T-shirts, and a zip

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11 Burning Questions About Men’s Shorts, Answered

As Memorial Day rolls around, our men’s fashion editor Jacob Gallagher solves all of your shorts-related style dilemmas—from the acceptable length to whether to tuck your shirt in (almost never). Plus: The jorts controversy.
WSJ.com: Lifestyle

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EXCLUSIVE: Jacquemus to Present First Men’s Collection in South of France

CLOSING ACT: He’s already the opening act of women’s Paris Fashion Week, and now Simon Porte Jacquemus is to close Paris Men’s Fashion Week, with his own event set the day after the official season ends — and somewhere far, far away from the City of Light.
The maverick designer will present the first men’s collection under his Jacquemus label in a yet-to-be-disclosed southern French city on June 25.
Among the possible locations, Porte Jacquemus, whose sun-soaked universe is deeply inspired by his upbringing in Provence, has deep ties with Marseille, where he spent much of his youth. The designer already presented a catwalk show there last May, as the special guest of the city’s OpenMyMed festival.
For that, he had models in looks from his spring 2017 women’s collection walk across a soaring flat footbridge linking the open-air Place d’Armes in the Fort Saint Jean, a 17th-century military complex with panoramic views over the port of Marseille, to the Rudy Ricciotti-designed main building of the Museum for Europe and the Mediterranean, or MuCEM.
“I grew up 40 minutes away from Marseille, but I was obsessed with the place. I would take three buses to get there to go swimming. If you look at the

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SportChek – Men’s & Women’s Clothing up to 40% Off at SportChek! Restrictions may apply. Offer ends 04/17/2018. Shop now!

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B Corner Brings Spanish Twist to Luxury Men’s Line

The team behind B Corner is an eclectic group, but while their backgrounds may be different, they’re all committed to creating a luxury men’s clothing brand that is a Spanish alternative to the English and Italian labels currently dominating the market.
As the story goes, Spanish nobleman Jaime de Marichalar y Saénz de Tejada, the former son-in-law of King Juan Carlos of Spain and a board member of Loewe and Dior, was in search of a new suit maker when his longtime tailor, Antonio Diaz, passed away about four years ago.
He happened upon Goyo Fernández, a custom tailor and owner of a men’s boutique in Madrid who was already working with Federico Zanolla, an entrepreneur and a banker, on a new tailoring concept.
Marichalar asked Fernández to make suits for him, the three men soon became friends and decided to work together to create a new business that they called B Corner.
They solicited internationally known model Oriol Elcacho, recognizable for his work for Ralph Lauren and other well-known fashion brands, along with actor Diego Martin to be the faces of the brand. And they were on their way.
“I became friends with Federico in Madrid and I started wearing the clothes to events

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Iceberg to Show Men’s Spring Collection in London

LONDON BOUND:  Iceberg goes to the U.K.
The Italian contemporary brand, controlled by manufacturing company Gilmar, is showing its men’s spring 2019 collection during London Collections: Men.
The runway show will take place on June 8 in a still undisclosed location.
Along with unveiling its latest men’s effort, creative director James Long will also showcase a selection of looks from Iceberg women’s pre-fall lineup.
Long joined the Iceberg men’s division in November 2015 and then, in August 2016, he was tapped by the brand to succeed Arthur Arbesser at the helm of the women’s line.
Last February, Iceberg presented its women’s fall collection, along with a few looks from the men’s range, with a runway show in the streets of Milan.

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EXCLUSIVE: Dee Ocleppo Unveils New Accessible Line of Women’s and Men’s Accessories

NEW YORK — “She is busier than me,” remarked Tommy Hilfiger while speaking about his wife, Dee Ocleppo, and her new namesake accessories collection. Previously Ocleppo designed a collection of handbags that sat at a luxury price point with her Bag Bar customization concept at retail. Kate Spade & Co. acquired the intellectual property and related business assets of the Bag Bar business from Ocleppo in 2016.
Now Ocleppo is back with The Dee Ocleppo Collection, a new direct-to-consumer brand strategy selling women’s bags and shoes as well as a range of men’s footwear options that lands at an accessible price point.
“I went from HSN to the line that I started, Dee Ocleppo, that was high, high-end. I went from one price point to the extreme price point and I feel like now I’ve landed right in the middle,” she said.
Ocleppo, who also is part owner and creative director and brand ambassador of Judith Leiber, held private appointments at New York’s oldest Italian restaurant, Barbetta, to preview the new Italian-made collection of accessories.
“When I was doing my Dee Ocleppo bags I’d always get these messages online or direct messages on social media saying, ‘I wish I could afford it,’ and that was difficult

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10 Men’s Clothing Subscription Boxes Every Guy Should Try

Let these subscription services do the shopping for you.
Style and Beauty – Fashion News, Celebrity Style and Fashion Trends
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Corridor Men’s Sportswear Fetes NoLIta Store

Creating a fashion collection is a far cry from working for the Federal Bureau of Investigation, but that’s the journey Dan Snyder took with his men’s brand, Corridor.
Snyder started his business career as an independent contractor for the government agency but hated the way his suits fit. So he borrowed his aunt’s vintage Kenmore sewing machine and learned how to sew. He started making shirts in his East Village walk-up in New York and decided to take a booth at the Capsule show to test the waters. He wrote orders with 12 independent men’s wear stores from that one rack in 2013 and was on his way.
Today, Corridor, which Snyder refers to as “new American sportswear [that] melds Northeastern prep with New York City’s modern sensibility,” is now carried in 90 stores in the U.S. and internationally including Stag, Unionmade and others that serve a contemporary men’s shopper. The line has also grown to include jackets, pants, shorts, accessories and a small women’s wear component.
And on Thursday, the company will host a party at its store on Mott Street in NoLIta to introduce the brand to press and influencers.
“We’ve grown organically since we started,” Snyder said. “And we believe it

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Hermès Converts N.Y. Men’s Store Into Record Shop

NEW YORK — Hermès has gotten the memo.
The French luxury brand has taken the movement toward experiential retailing to the next level, completely transforming its men’s store here into a vinyl record store for 10 days.
On Thursday night, the Madison Avenue emporium debuted Silk Mix, an art installation centered around music that has already been showcased in Madrid and Rome and now makes its way into the U.S.
“It’s all about silk and music,” said Robert Chavez, chief executive officer of Hermès. The concept was the brainchild of Véronique Nichanian, artistic director of Hermès men’s wear, and Christophe Goineau, creative director of men’s silk. They worked with Thierry Planelle, who has curated music for the company’s men’s shows for the last 15 years, to bring the idea to life.
The main floor was reworked to replicate an old-fashioned record store with bins of albums on display and a bank of turntables to give them a spin. But these albums had an Hermès twist: each of the covers sported a different silk design from the men’s assortment. “There are 225 styles and 53 different patterns,” Chavez said. “And you can pick your favorite and then play it.”

The album covers were all created from

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Men’s Wear Movers

The men’s market continues to boom — but who’s driving it? Here, a look at the dozen people and brands setting the direction in the market today.
 
1. Yeezy
The influence of Kanye West spreads far and wide and it has for a while, but the fruits of his labor — whether ranting to be taken seriously by the fashion establishment or demanding more opportunities at Nike — are starting to materialize in a rare way. He’s helped mentor Virgil Abloh, who got the shot at Nike that West always wanted and will lead Louis Vuitton men’s; Fear of God’s Jerry Lorenzo, who is also set to work with Nike and continues to grow his brand, and designer Heron Preston, who’s becoming the go-to guy for musical artists wanting to build excitement around their merchandise.
And then there’s the power of his own brand, Yeezy, which he creates in partnership with Adidas. During 2017, West avoided formal public appearances, but his collection was still very active and popular. He released three new footwear models: the Calabasas Powerphase, the Waverunner 700 and the Yeezy 500s. And on the apparel side, he churned out a Calabasas capsule collection and released Yeezy Season 5. But after

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Players to watch in the NCAA men’s Frozen Four

After exciting regional rounds, Notre Dame, Ohio State, Michigan and Minnesota-Duluth advance to the Frozen Four in St. Paul on April 5-7. Chris Peters looks at some of the more exciting players to watch, many of whom project as future impact NHLers.
www.espn.com – NHL

Sise Men’s Fall 2018

Name: Sise
Main message: Seishin Matsui went for a mix of cool and preppy, with biker jackets and long coats sharing the runway with cuffed jeans and button-downs worn under sweatshirts. Athletic influences were plentiful, with slim track pants, relaxed joggers, Windbreakers and loose-fitting shorts — some with legs of uneven lengths — making multiple appearances. While the majority of the collection was turned out in black, white or deep shades of green and burgundy, a few looks in the middle had an almost summery feel in pastels or yellow and blue checks. 
The result: While the silhouettes consisted of classic shapes and Matsui didn’t do much to put his own spin on them, it was a solid showing from a brand that hasn’t staged a runway show in over four years.

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Louis Vuitton Names Virgil Abloh as Its New Men’s Wear Designer

In Mr. Abloh, Louis Vuitton has hired its first African-American designer and a street wear specialist for its growing luxury men’s line.
NYT > Fashion & Style

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Wewill Men’s Fall 2018

Name: Wewill
Main message: A year after launching his brand, Hidetaka Fukuzono staged his first runway show in an underground nightclub, with the models walking through narrow corridors and square rooms. It was a collection heavy on outerwear, with a variety of coats in wool tweed, shearling, nylon, leather and more. Fukuzono employed unconventional layering, showing denim jackets under bombers or plush jackets, and pajamas under suit jackets or robe-like coats.
The result: While there wasn’t much originality in the shapes, Fukuzono added interest with his mix of rich, contrasting textures, resulting in slightly elevated basics that were casual and comfortable.

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Mistergentleman Men’s Fall 2018

After a two-year hiatus, Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii returned to Tokyo’s fashion week with an effortlessly cool offering that mixed dandy with outdoorsy and streetwear with tailoring. A teal blue velour suit was worn with a funnel-neck shirt and sneakers, while a plush fleece pullover topped slick patent pants in pale pink.
In what was perhaps an acknowledgement of the fact that they already have some female customers, the designers also played with traditional gender norms, sending one woman down the runway and incorporating details normally only seen in women’s collections. Shirts and a trenchcoat that seemed relatively pedestrian from the front — aside from the fact that they had no openings — were shown to be completely backless. And card holder-sized patent leather pouches were worn as tiny, colorful cross-body bags.
Osumi and Yoshii, who style their collections themselves, are known for their clever layering, but this time they often did it in a single piece. Puffer jackets had a second, cropped layer on top, while cargo pocket arm bands and half vests were attached to sweatshirts and coats. Some suit jackets and down coats had exaggerated kangaroo pockets at the front.
In a season that has been lacking in strong men’s brands —

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Printemps Inaugurates Men’s Accessories Floor

PARIS — The missing piece of the Printemps men’s building, Printemps de l’Homme, is in place with the inauguration today of the store’s men’s accessories department on the ground floor. The men’s footwear space remains on the site’s fifth floor.
Measuring around 22,000 square feet, the contemporary Wilmotte & Associés-designed space features a light gray marble floor and wood and copper furniture interspersed with multicolored Perspex units.

A view of the new Printemps de l’Homme accessories department. 
MANUEL BOUGOT

The department boasts a number of brand exclusives and corners by labels including Gucci, Prada, Valentino, Loewe, Longchamp, David Yurman and cutting-edge speaker brand, Devialet.
Dedicated areas include urban leather goods, with items by brands such as Want Les Essentiels, Rue de Verneuil and Bonastre; belts, by specialist labels including Maison Boinet and L’Aiglon, and hats, with collections by Stetson, Borsalino and Super Duper, to name but a few.
The retailer’s Au Printemps Paris private label is also present across the categories.
Boutiques by Montblanc and Christian Louboutin will open soon.
Spotlighting brands specializing in artisanal know-how, a section called Le Masculin Singulier, or Masculine Singularity in English, showcases goods by 30 labels from across seven countries, with prices ranging from 50 euros to 3,000 euros. On display are leather goods

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Karen Walker Taps MMA Fighter for Men’s Campaign

Karen Walker is no stranger to choosing non-typical subjects for her campaigns — she’s highlighted everyone from Toast the Dog, a social media influencer, to Phyllis Sue, a dancer in her 90s. For her second men’s eyewear collection, titled Monumental, she’s tapped Israel Adesanya, a Nigerian-born, New Zealand-trained fighter to appear in the campaign.
“He’s an interesting man,” said Walker. “He’s an MMA fighter who started as a dancer and has a very modern take on masculinity. His nickname, ‘The Last Style Bender,’ captures his subversion and reinvention of his craft and that’s a place where we love to work as well — reinventing classics and throwing together opposites.”
Adesanya has been fighting since 2008 but made his UFC debut earlier this year. In the campaign, the 28-year-old is featured with a bloom behind his ear and a big smile. Walker said she wanted to depict a more multifaceted take on masculinity.
This is Walker’s second men’s collection, which has since been picked up by Kith, The Standard Hotel Shops, the Trade Public Hotel and Lapstone & Hammer.

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Speaker Lineup Set for Men’s Summit on March 27

From international e-commerce firms and luxury powerhouses to popular American start-ups and trend-setters in the red-hot streetwear arena, the WWD Men’s Wear Summit will take on a wide variety of issues impacting the men’s wear industry today.
The all-day event will take place on March 27 at The New School’s Parsons School of Design at 66 Fifth Avenue in New York. It will provide a thought-provoking agenda as well as a networking opportunity for executives in fashion, retail and e-commerce.
Among those committed to speak are Chad Kessler, global brand president of American Eagle Outfitters. Kessler, who also oversees the company’s Todd Snyder brand, will take on the issue of creating new brand experiences at retail to drive customer engagement.
In his 18 years with Adidas, Nic Galway, vice president of global design for Adidas Originals & Style, has been responsible for creating some of the brand’s highest-profile collaborations, including those with Stella McCartney, Y-3 with Yohji Yamamoto and, most recently, Kanye West.
Fokke de Jong, founder and chief executive officer of Suitsupply, has not shied away from controversy since starting the Amsterdam-based men’s tailored clothing retail firm in 2000. Most recently, the company’s ads featuring a same-sex couple resulted in an international firestorm

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OVS Taps Massimo Piombo to Refresh Its Men’s Offering

Massimo Piombo is the new artistic director of Italian retailer OVS’ men’s line.
During a press conference held Thursday in Milan to present the capsule realized by the company in collaboration with Kendall and Kylie Jenner, OVS chief executive officer Stefano Beraldo said the designer will overlook the development of the retailer’s men’s wear offering, which will be enlarged with the creation of a still-unnamed “upper casual” line featuring retail prices 30 percent higher than regular products.
The collaboration with Piombo will start with the fall 2019 season.
The same strategy aimed at dressing customers looking for more design-oriented and high-quality products will be extended to the women’s division, which will continue to be guided by OVS fashion director Caterina Salvador.
The new labels will be sold in dedicated areas inside OVS stores and online.

A look from the Kendall + Kylie for OVS collection. 
Courtesy Photo

“My real ambition is to continue serving customers of every age and spending power, which means being also able to fit the needs of those who look for higher quality,” said Beraldo. “And actually, we can definitely make products with a higher value with prices that are just a little bit higher and always accessible.”
At the same time, Beraldo revealed

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Simon Porte Jacquemus to Unveil Men’s Line

WAITING FOR THE MAN: The guessing game is over: Simon Porte Jacquemus revealed at his fall show in Paris on Monday that the new professional challenge he has been teasing for weeks on social media with the hashtag #newjob is the launch of his own men’s wear line.
The designer made the announcement at his women’s ready-to-wear show, held at the Petit Palais, but will not present his first creations until Paris men’s fashion week in June, a spokesman said. It has not yet been finalized if he will stage a show or a presentation for the men’s line.
“I see the Jacquemus man as I see the Jacquemus woman, it’s my own story and emotions — all that inside a collection,” Jacquemus told WWD in a statement. He revealed he had a very personal reason to launch the project. “I started to imagine the man when last year I fell in love,” the 28-year-old said.
The designer has used social media as a central part of his communications strategy since he launched his brand in 2009 after dropping out of fashion school, prompted by his mother’s untimely death (Jacquemus is her maiden name.)
He rapidly gained the support of industry figures like Rei

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Perry Ellis Signs License for Men’s Underwear in South Korea

South Korea has been top-of-mind this month thanks to its hosting of the 2018 Winter Olympics. And now Perry Ellis International is hoping to outfit the citizens in its underwear and loungewear.
In a new licensing deal, PEI has partnered with Good People Co. Ltd for men’s underwear and loungewear under the Perry Ellis Portfolio trademark in South Korea. The product launch is planned for fall.   
“We are pleased to collaborate with Good People,” said Oscar Feldenkreis, chief executive officer and president of PEI. “We see great potential for growth in the South Korean market and are pleased to take these continued steps in our business expansion.” 
Yoon Woohwan, ceo of Good People, said his company will distribute the product in a variety of retail channels. Good People is a publicly traded South Korean company that manufactures and wholesales underwear and loungewear for men, women and children under the Bodyguard, James Dean and Don & Dons brands.

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Asher Levine to Release Men’s Ready-to-Wear Collection

NEW YORK — Asher Levine is ready to bring his celebrity style to the masses.
The designer, who has dressed everyone from Lady Gaga and Whoopi Goldberg to Will.i.am and Bruno Mars, has created his first commercial ready-to-wear collection for fall.
The line will be shown by appointment during New York Fashion Week: Men’s, from Feb. 4 to 7, at a location on Orchard Street on the Lower East Side.
The shift in focus is part of a maturation of the label — which just snagged the women’s wear design award from Fashion Group International — that the now-29-year-old incorporated as a business in 2009.
“I started sewing as a kid,” said the Florida native during an interview at his Harlem studio, “and was president of the 4-H Silly Stitchers.” He moved to New York right after graduating from high school to attend Pace University’s business school, where he studied entrepreneurship. During college, he started working in the industry, for Geoffrey Beene and other companies, before receiving a call from Nicola Formichetti, stylist for Lady Gaga, who reached out to discuss Levine designing something for the entertainer.
He created an oversize leather biker jacket, and he was on his way.
A version of that jacket has

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DKNY Men’s Relaunch Covers All the Bases

G-III Apparel Group is going all in when it comes to the relaunch of DKNY men’s.
The $ 2.4 billion New York-based conglomerate purchased Donna Karan International, parent of the DKNY label, from LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton for $ 650 million at the end of 2016.
The women’s DKNY collection was the first to debut under the new ownership arrangement, transitioning out of its more-widespread department store distribution to become exclusive with Macy’s for spring. The men’s wear will be sold at Macy’s along with Hudson’s Bay in Canada, Liverpool in Mexico and on the company’s web site.
The men’s collection has been absent from the market since fall 2015. For three seasons, DKNY was designed by Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of Public School, but the designers focused on women’s apparel only. That arrangement ended after the G-III sale was finalized.
In May, G-III signed a multiyear licensing deal with PVH Corp. under which PVH will design and distribute DKNY men’s sportswear, dress shirts, neckwear and jeans in the U.S. and Canada. The company also produces belts and small leather goods.
The first collection will be for summer and will hit stores in the first week in April; the big push will be for fall,

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Latest USA-Russian men’s hockey clash just like it always was … in the stands

The fans were as expected on Saturday. Brash. Chippy. Frantic. Yes, it was Team USA against the Russians, and, in the stands, it felt like it. On the ice, it was something less so.
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Retailers Bet Big at the Vegas Men’s Shows

LAS VEGAS — There are a lot of opportunities to capitalize on in the men’s market this year. While the industry tends to move more slowly than women’s, the continuing popularity of streetwear, heritage influences and technical fabrications are all understandable trends for the men’s shopper and are buoying the spirits of stores attending the Project, Liberty Fairs, Capsule and Agenda trade shows here this week.
Most men’s retailers are coming off a solid 2017 and believe that the fashion trends in the market will help them continue the momentum into this year.
As James Starke, senior vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s for J.C. Penney, put it: “We had a good fourth quarter and are off to a good start in Q1. There’s a lot of newness in men’s and kids and we have a lot of new brands coming in, so we feel good for spring.”
Looking ahead to fall, Starke has similar optimism — albeit tempered with some caution.
“These shows have become a touch point for us and our suppliers,” he said. “They help validate what we’re doing for fall.”
Tom Ott, chief merchant for Saks Off 5th and Gilt, said he appreciated the shows, particularly Agenda and Liberty, for all the

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The Three Designers to Watch at New York Fashion Week: Men’s

Name: Willy Chavarria
Background: Chavarria, a Mexican-American, grew up in Huron, Calif., a small town near Fresno, and held design stints at Ralph Lauren and American Eagle Outfitters before starting Palmer Trading Co., his Made in the U.S. men’s wear line that leaned heavily toward workwear and was snapped up by Japanese retailers. Now he’s exclusively focused on his namesake assortment of men’s wear.
Inspiration this season: “Faith in humanity during dark times.”
Mentor or idol: “I love the work of film director Romain Gavras. I find a connection with it in my work.”
Goal: “I’d like to help us see ourselves in a new light.”
What’s your favorite secret spot in New York?: The lobby bar at Jolly Madison Towers Hotel on 38th and Madison Avenue.
 
Name: Emily Adams Bode
Background: Bode was born and raised in Atlanta, and spent her summers in New England, where she frequented antique shops and shows with her mother. Through that she was introduced to age-old techniques and fabrications. “I have always been drawn to hand-work, craft and labors of love,” the designer said. “The stories told through craft and the sense of the hand, the individual-maker, drew me to them.” Bode eventually moved to New York, where she graduated from Parsons

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Project Elevates Partnership With NYFW: Men’s

Project continued to make its presence known at New York Fashion Week: Men’s by hosting a presentation for Michael Bastian, W.R.K., Faherty and M. Singer, four brands that often show within the Tents, the designer section of the trade show.
Project also hosted several other labels during the morning and afternoon sessions of New York Men’s Day.
Tommy Fazio, men’s fashion director of UBM Fashion, who hand-selected each brand, said this is the latest initiative in the company’s move to support American talent. It’s also an evolution of UBM Fashion’s new partnership with the Council of Fashion Designers of America that promotes the growth of emerging talent and the fashion industry as a whole.
“We are thrilled to have the platform outside of the trade-show floor in New York to champion men’s wear talent who represent the best of American designers. Having had the privilege of working with each designer at Project, we are excited to assist in presenting their fall 2018 collections by supporting CFDA’s NYFW: Men’s and NYMD,” Fazio said.

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Rite Aid – Neutrogena Skin, Bath, Sun & Men’s Care – Buy One Get One 50% OFF regular retail with card+ Earn $15 in BONUSCASH when you spend $40 on these items with card at Rite Aid! Valid 2/4-2/10

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Carlos Campos Men’s Fall 2018

Mexican style icon Juan Gabriel may be gone, but he’s not forgotten — at least not for Carlos Campos. The designer on Tuesday presented a collection influenced by the late singer’s unique “charro” influence.
“I love mariachis and their music and I wanted to reinterpret what Juan Gabriel would have worn today,” said the designer backstage.
That translated into sleek outerwear, loose tailoring, silk shirts with pointed collars and pleated baggy pants.
Though very minimal, Campos captured the graphic elements of the mariachi jacket and added his own spin, which resulted in an infusion of bold graphic statements that had a tribal/street aesthetic, as seen in his oversized checked shirts and cropped capes.
The theme could have had the audience screaming “ay caramba,” but Campos’ restraint in the use of the mariachi references resulted in a solid effort.

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Rite Aid – Neutrogena Skin, Bath, Sun & Men’s Care – Buy One Get One 50% OFF regular retail with card+ Earn $15 in BONUSCASH when you spend $40 on these items with card at Rite Aid! Valid 2/4-2/10

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Men’s Fall 2018 Trend: Euro Trip

Heritage men’s wear and youthful street influences were on full display on Europe’s fall runways, where sharp double-breasted tailoring faced off against statement puffers, while pops of Instagram-friendly safety orange enlivened the season. 
Monster Mash
Double Play
Pumped Up
High Visibility
 

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Rite Aid – Neutrogena Skin, Bath, Sun & Men’s Care – Buy One Get One 50% OFF regular retail with card+ Earn $15 in BONUSCASH when you spend $40 on these items with card at Rite Aid! Valid 2/4-2/10

Neutrogena Skin, Bath, Sun & Men’s Care – Buy One Get One 50% OFF regular retail with card+ Earn $ 15 in BONUSCASH when you spend $ 40 on these items with card at Rite Aid! Valid 2/4-2/10
Code: no code needed
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Rite Aid – Neutrogena Skin, Bath, Sun & Men’s Care – Buy One Get One 50% OFF regular retail with card+ Earn $15 in BONUSCASH when you spend $40 on these items with card at Rite Aid! Valid 2/4-2/10

Neutrogena Skin, Bath, Sun & Men’s Care – Buy One Get One 50% OFF regular retail with card+ Earn $ 15 in BONUSCASH when you spend $ 40 on these items with card at Rite Aid! Valid 2/4-2/10
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Common Gender Aims to Tap Underpenetrated Men’s Market in China

SHANGHAI — It was a case of the venue determining the launch city of men’s wear label Common Gender rather than Shanghai’s burgeoning reputation as an international fashion hub.
When looking at locations for the label’s first fashion show, Lea Chan, vice president and marketing director of parent company EPO Fashion Group, searched for venues in Shanghai, Beijing and Chengdu, but settled on the former after discovering West Bund Art Center. Once an old aircraft factory, the industrial space has held onto much of its raw, urban interior, which was in keeping with the brand’s Nineties Berlin-inspired pop-up shop and edgy, angular fashion show on Tuesday.
The pop-up store and fashion show were attended by key Chinese influencers and business partners of the brand and featured a cast of international and local male models purposefully storming down the catwalk with a performance by American twin brother electro punk rock band The Garden.
EPO Fashion Group, parent company of women’s wear brands Mo & Co. and Edition 10; cosmetics brand REC, and children’s wear label Little Mo & Co. posted group sales of 3.5 billion yuan in 2017, or $ 555 million. Common Gender’s launch marks the Chinese company’s move into the domestic men’s wear market.

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Etro to Kick Off 50th Anniversary With Men’s Presentation in Milan

MILAN — “They affectionately call me the upholstery designer here,” said Kean Etro with a laugh.
Tanned and refreshed after his Christmas holidays spent between skiing in the Dolomites and sailing across the Indian Ocean, the creative director of the men’s wear line at the family-owned company is brimming with energy as he walks through the collection in an exclusive preview with WWD. His interest in home interiors is reflected in his designs and the nickname also comes from his deep and extensive knowledge of habitats around the world.
“Habitat is also the house that surrounds you and that you wear as a dress,” said Etro affably.

A look from Etro Fall 2018 . 
Simone Lezzi/WWD

A medallion detail from Persian carpets that is reproduced on exquisitely embroidered jackets in silk and cotton velour is just one example of Etro’s ability to import from interiors to fashion. The lining shows colorful Etro banknotes and is so carefully defined it would be worth wearing the blazer inside out — although it is not reversible, the designer pointed out.
On a board is a mock-up of the installation that will serve as the background to the men’s wear presentation to be held on Jan. 13 at the Palazzo del Ghiaccio,

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Upbeat Mood Prevails at New York Men’s Trade Shows

NEW YORK — New year, bright outlook.
That sums up the mood of specialty stores shopping the men’s trade shows here. A strong end to 2017, a soaring stock market and some tempting merchandise options for fall all combined to boost retailers’ spirits.
“Holiday was great,” said Ken Giddon, president of Rothmans, which operates three men’s stores in New York. “There have been some weather difficulties in January but that’s OK. We had a surprisingly strong fall so inventories are not what we had expected. My mood is good — it’s an exciting time to be a retailer.”
He said he has been working more with his suppliers to create partnerships that benefit both. “Every conversation is not: ‘What are you selling and how much is it?’ But it’s, ‘How can we work together.’ That’s what it’s going to take to make the wholesale model work today and I actually enjoy making deals almost more than I enjoy looking at merchandise.”
That said, Giddon did manage to find several brands that he liked at the shows. “I’m surprised at how many great Scandinavian brands there are,” he said, pointing to the Scandinavian Man section at Project. He especially liked Hestra gloves and Cords trousers.
In

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Gilt to Tease New Men’s Brand During Pre-Super Bowl Festivities

Gilt is latching onto the frenzy surrounding Sunday’s Super Bowl to drum up interest in its new private label men’s brand. Called NHP, the collection will launch on the Gilt web site in June and rollout to sister Saks Off 5th stores in the fall.
NHP, which stands for New High Performance, will include both tailored clothing and sportswear and is targeted to the athletic Millennial male.
Wednesday night in Minneapolis, the host city of the Patriots-Eagles matchup this weekend, Gilt will host a cocktail party and preview the collection for the announcers, celebrities, professional athletes and influencers in town for the game.
“We are looking to develop a program for young, fashionable guys, and we think there’s a big opportunity for hip, cool, updated suits that are closer to the body,” said Tom Ott, chief merchant of Gilt and Saks Off 5th. “There are not a lot of options for those guys at the lower end of the market.”
The suits will retail for $ 495 and will feature high-performance fabrics and attributes such as comfort and flexibility, he said. Ath-leisure sportswear looks will also be offered.
At the event in Minneapolis, the looks will all be styled with sneakers to make the point that

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Balmain Revs Up Men’s

PARIS — “I’ve built my show like it’s the end of the world. You will see from the looks that we are all survivors — I’m definitely a survivor, for so many reasons,” said Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing, who on Saturday is to present a show “all about surviving the world — and the fashion world.”
The designer will be delivering messages at the show on a series of T-shirts bearing “sentences that mean a lot to me,” he said, picking out one that particularly strikes a chord: I’m only human.
“I’ve been in fashion seven years,” Rousteing explained, “and I’ve [had to face so much] criticism. I just want to say to people, ‘Look, you’re going to judge and critique the show no matter if it’s good or not. Have an opinion, but never forget we’re only human, we’re not superheroes and we always try to do our best.’”
Rousteing’s best, in this collection, means a men’s line more in sync with the women’s in terms of direction, “power and strength” — and the feeling that he’s found himself. As the gender-fluid trend sweeps through men’s, the Balmain man, Rousteing said, “is definitely listening to his feminine side, his rock ’n’

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John Varvatos Men’s Fall 2018

John Varvatos went “rogue” for his fall show, eschewing the official fashion calendar to present on the eve of Grammys weekend in New York.
He selected an old synagogue on the Lower East Side and filled the front row with musicians and executives in town for the big event at Madison Square Garden: all three Jonas brothers, Thomas Rhett, Young Paris and Iggy Azalea among them.
It was ironic then that this season, Varvatos showed less of a rock ’n’ roll aesthetic than in the past. “I never think of us as rock ’n’ roll,” the designer said backstage before the show. “That’s other people’s perception. But it does have an edge to it.”
Instead, the designer set out to “change it up,” with a show he titled “John Varvatos 2.0” that “explored the notion of looking back to look forward,” according to the show notes.
He turned to his greatest hits over the past 17 years — textured fabrics, handknit sweaters, hand-finished leathers and pumped-up trainers — modernized in terms of silhouette and materials — to offer his take on the street “and how we’re living today.”
Despite the slightly oversized proportions, the collection was not streetwear — intentionally. “I appreciate streetwear but I’m

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Paris Men’s Week: Great Expectations

PARIS — As the coed trend continues to suck puff out of men’s weeks’ sails, Paris, as the proverbial capital of fashion, is still showing resistance.
The palpable buzz around the week, which opened Tuesday, bodes well for the city’s returning confidence. The greater Paris region in 2017 saw a record 23.1 million hotel arrivals, according to the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau, coming off a gloomy 2016 that was impacted by a spate of terrorist attacks.
Against a baseline of men’s wear stalwarts like Dries Van Noten, Comme des Garçons, Thom Browne and Rick Owens, Vetements’ off-calendar show — after having staged a “No-Show” event in a Paris car park last June — has added fizz to this season, while excitement is also mounting around the debut Maison Margiela men’s collection under the creative direction of John Galliano, both showing on Friday. It’s been a step-by-step process for the designer.
“The strategy of the maison is rooted into a single unified and consistent message, with John Galliano’s vision at its core. Allowing this creative vision to develop and expand consistently throughout the house first required a thorough exploration and redefinition of the brand codes,” said Riccardo Bellini, chief executive officer of Maison

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Ones to Watch: Paris Men’s Fashion Week

PARIS — From the debut collection of design-led sustainable men’s brand, Phipps, to Nïuku’s modern-day tribute to men’s tailoring of yore, here are some of the new talents to look out for at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, which kicks into high gear today.
Phipps

A look by Phipps. 
Courtesy

“It’s about acknowledging that we’re all people, we’re in this together,” said Spencer Phipps, founder of Phipps, a new men’s wear line mixing sustainability and style that is due to launch on Jan. 20 during Paris Men’s Week. (The venue is still to be confirmed.)
The Paris-based designer, who is from San Francisco, cut his teeth in the men’s studio of Marc Jacobs in New York before working for Dries Van Noten in Antwerp for three years. After leaving Van Noten, he spent eight months researching manufacturers and materials. “I did my graduate collection in sustainability in 2008 at Parsons and it was like a joke. I ended up finding one manufacturer in New England that was basically some hippy commune that made hemp and linen and one cotton flannel,” he said.
So Phipps opted to work with manufacturers in Portugal, “a country that is basically certified [for sustainability].”
“After their economy crashed, at the same time as everyone

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Martin Grant Leaps Into Men’s Wear Amid Shift in Collections Calendar

PARIS — Martin Grant, whose razor-sharp tailoring has earned him fans including Cate Blanchett and Jennifer Connelly, is launching a capsule collection for men as part of a broader plan to switch the focus away from his main women’s collection and toward the pre-collection seasons.
Grant is set to unveil the men’s line, featuring between 15 and 20 designs, during presentations at his Paris showroom between Jan. 17 and 24.
Starting in July, the Australian designer, whose last catwalk show was held in October 2015, will resume runway presentations during Paris Couture Week showcasing his men’s designs alongside his women’s pre-fall collections and a smattering of couture.
He will present a few additions to the pre-collection to coincide with the main women’s ready-to-wear shows in March and October, but will no longer produce separate collections. Grant said the decision made sense, as pre-collections now account for 80 percent of his business.
“Logistically it’s much better for us, because it’s what the buyers want anyhow,” he told WWD during an exclusive preview of the men’s collection. “They’re putting all of their budget into the pre-collections, because they need the time to sell. For us, concentrating on that season gives us a longer lead time to develop the

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Officine Générale Men’s Fall 2018

Pierre Mahéo is sticking to his guns. “I don’t need and don’t want mass,” he insisted in his show notes — a candid letter addressed to friends. He’s not having any of that forced-inspiration business either.
So the designer delivered a soothing lineup of his mainstay: smart, contemporary and handsome, easing his audience into a comfortable spot on a cold and dripping Sunday morning.
Outerwear came in layers. For the women: a thin, checked trench hung over a thicker, double-breasted coat in blue, of the same length, just below the knees — paired with a tight miniskirt and bare legs. A suit coat poked out from under a beige bomber jacket for men. The jackets also came in a lush dark olive and pale gray that leaned toward periwinkle — faithful to his color scheme, Mahéo tinkered with the hues and canceled the stitching on the sleeves. The label also focused on fabrics, studying the weave of vintage American military clothing from the Sixties and commissioning Japanese mills to make them.
Prints were notably absent but not for want of trying. “I tried really hard, but there was nothing that really caught my eyes,” explained Mahéo, with his trademark sincerity. The result was

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Balenciaga Shows First Men’s Pre-Collection

GIMME MORE: Having decided to go coed starting in March, Balenciaga was one of the notable absentees on this week’s Paris men’s wear runways.
The label made up for it with the presentation of its first pre-collection for men at its showroom, where a row of giant screens showed models walking in variations of the oversize man-on-the-street clothes that creative director Demna Gvasalia showed for spring, merged with the hybrid garments he designed for women.
“The two-way conversation between the ordinary and the extraordinary, between fashion and utility, emphasizes the Balenciaga priority of putting choice in the hands of the personality of the wearer,” the house said in a statement.
Shirts and T-shirts were fused together to be worn two ways, as in a fluorescent green T-shirt twinned with a brown-and-blue checked shirt. (And let’s face it, who doesn’t like two for the price of one?)
Patchwork was another central theme of the collection, from the tone-on-tone burgundy leather pants to a zipped top in bands of contrasting fleece and jersey fabrics.
Gvasalia updated his trademark down jacket with bold rugby stripes, cinching the bulky outerwear with nylon fanny packs that promise to become as coveted as the brand’s Triple S sneaker.

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Balmain Men’s Fall 2018

Balmain may be looking to widen its reach, but Olivier Rousteing, as the house’s figurehead, ultimately designs for himself, with his spirit running through every single piece that goes down his runway, take it or leave it.
And that was the message this season, with the designer reinforcing everything the brand is known for, revisiting house classics like the short jacket, the tight pants, the military jacket and the marinière in a torrent of metallic, glittery embellishments. The direction was echoed in the women’s looks, which were hooked on signature sexy, thigh-skimming dresses.
Sticking to his skinny, square-shoulder silhouette, military — one of the season’s key trends — was a major theme, but more for the embellishments than a utilitarian mood, with plays on pockets, zips and lacing on a run of khaki green bombers and bikers.
With sax’ on the soundtrack, “Blade Runner”-esque outfits included a double-breasted belted plastic jacket with the neon lights of an urban night landscape print glowing through. Black vinyl enhanced the after-dark mood, sometimes as a total look.
Where the collection shone, though, was in the latter run of simpler, young-at-heart, more minimalist spins, like the glittery mesh T-shirt, a beaded black and silver baseball T-shirt that swished as

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Hed Mayner Men’s Fall 2018

For his third show in Paris, Israeli designer Hed Mayner charted a course through a nautical theme.
There was a melancholy mood to the voluminous jackets with sleeves falling to the fingertips, back-to-front shirting mimicking a sailor suit, and in the outerwear, some of which were capes crafted from recycled sails.
“They’re things that you go to sleep in, pieces in which you have a life,” he said backstage. Even the landlocked will get mileage out of boiled wools in a palette of navy and grays that spoke of cold-weather strategies from a time before technical materials. Extrawide trousers that pooled at the ankle and collars turned up as high as they’d go, and then some had something of Corto Maltese to them.
The waters between utilitarian and tailored clothing can often be rough, filled with oversized proportions and unflattering silhouettes. In reframing  tailored outerwear and suiting into a form of workwear by playing with scale — magnifying and downsizing is one of his signatures — Mayner found his way to a safe harbor between the two.

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Dries Van Noten Men’s Fall 2018

Taking over a vast garage in Paris’ Canal Saint-Martin district, with models tracing its edge on a raised podium before hitting the ground, Dries Van Noten pulled off one of the season’s strongest shows yet.
A curious mix of combinations went into the shaker, like Las Vegas-style Western garb, white broderie anglaise pants, military parkas, suits in traditional British checks, granny crochet cardigans and pajama stripes. There was also a hint of pimp and a hearty dose of punk, such as a look pairing a glittery zebra sweater with tartan pants.
But it was all so well-balanced that it formed a fun, cohesive, rich but cool whole.
Even the more daring elements were digested perfectly into the looks. Case in point: a minimalist navy tracksuit traced with lines of tan cowboy-shirt piping.
Van Noten continued to play with oversize proportions in the slouchy suits, boxy trenchcoats and the baggy pants.
The designer’s magic colorist instincts climaxed in an Instagenic run of anoraks in swirling colored marble-y prints recalling Venetian paper or spun paint, with models gathering in a painterly formation for the finale.
The open-border mixing of cultures worked best on a tropical print pajama shirt paired with a fantasy leopard print skinny pant and snakeskin

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Virgil Abloh, Gwendoline Christie and the Beckhams Attend Kim Jones’ Final Show for Louis Vuitton Men’s

UNITED FRONT: Showing their support, guests including Gwendoline Christie, Xavier Dolan and Brazilian soccer champion Neymar Jr. turned out to take in the final show of Louis Vuitton men’s designer Kim Jones on Thursday.
Joining them were designers Maria Grazia Chiuri, Stefano Pilati, Victoria Beckham, Olivier Rousteing and Virgil Abloh, who delivered “a personal message for Kim.”
“What an amazing tenure, he has always been one of my favorite designers and his gift to the world of men’s fashion will be forever remembered. Super excited to see what he goes on to do,” he said.
“Excited to see what he’ll be doing next,” echoed Beckham, who took in the show with her husband and son, David and Brooklyn Beckham, eyeing up one of the leather jackets with cherry blossom embroidery.
“It’s been an amazing journey for him and, of course, it’s not over yet. He’s just at the beginning of his career,” said Stephen Jones.
Blending with the set, Ambush’s Yoon Ahn, who is a close friend of Jones’, wore a dress in the same print that was used to cover the runway, based on an aerial view of Kenya. “Departures are not necessarily a sad thing, he’s done such an amazing job for Vuitton, he has contributed

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Haider Ackermann Men’s Fall 2018

This felt less gritty rock than collections past, with Haider Ackermann showing a more merch-friendly, cleaner side. Fully intact was his sense of color and nomad instincts. On a range of layered military-ethnic silhouettes for a chic dandy, the designer juxtaposed Army green and khaki with the jewel tones of the silky rich fabrics.
Quilted green and gold underlayers flashed out from the big tailored coats and jackets, silks lined upturned lapels, and white silk-linen cherry blossom embroideries climbed across the clothes, mixing with stripes on one of the kimonos.
Soft unconstructed velvet leisure suits underscored the cocooning mood, with the designer saying backstage that he wanted it to feel lived in, “that the person inhabits the clothes.”
The floaty black coat in country florals with quilted gold lining was to die for.
“That’s what I enjoy the most, to play with colors and fabrics and patterns,” said Ackermann. And it showed.

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What’s the Future of Men’s Fashion? I Went to Italy to Find Out

At Pitti Uomo, the world’s largest clothing trade show, buyers and brands from around the world dictate what clothes you’ll find in store next year. WSJ’s men’s fashion columnist got a preview.
WSJ.com: Lifestyle

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Palomo Spain Men’s Fall 2018

What better start to Paris Men’s Fashion Week? And to the year, while we’re at it.
Horns tooting, Alejandro Gómez Palomo this season put the conservative country set and hunting world through his madcap spinner. In an altogether more masculine and commercial collection, relatively speaking, the designer opened with bottle green Dickens-esque capelet coats and skinny pants in a dark, cool, wool-striped fabric, tricked with foxtails and ring belts with S&M undertones.
The Elizabethan-style period dressing bit — think guys in doublets with slash sleeves, pleated brocade tunics and onion-shaped hose like puffed shorts — was where it all exploded.
The silver sequin chainmail dress with green capelet was a real head-turning moment. As were the silk brocade chaps. Other looks, like the stately black cape dusted with crystals, had a turn-of-the-century, woman-in-mourning feel, with the designer’s work recalling early John Galliano, pulling from a lot of different source material.
But for all the camping around, the craftsmanship was exquisite, especially the intricate shoulder constructions. Hunting hats with splays of feathers and fringed leather bags finished off the looks.
A drapey camel trenchcoat with a pale blue shirt with ruffles on the collar had the perfect balance.
There was a liberating, gender-free, fairy-tale mood. But the

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Roberto Bolle, Kendall Jenner Front Tod’s Spring Campaign, Attend Milan Men’s Presentation

BELLE AND BOLLE: Too bad Roberto Bolle couldn’t do one of his Grand Jetés at Tod’s chaotic presentation, held once again at the exquisite Villa Necchi in Milan. The Italian ballet star was literally squeezed between buyers, the press and TV cameras trying to see the new men’s collection — not to mention hordes of revelers sipping the free drinks and nibbling the canapés — with almost no room to breathe, let alone dance. Ever the pro, Bolle took the sardine-like conditions in stride and calmly and politely talked about the shoot of Tod’s spring campaign in Malibu, Calif., with Kendall Jenner, as images from the video were projected at the entrance. Jenner opened and closed Tod’s women’s spring runway show in September.
“It was fun and a pleasant break from a very intense period. It gave me a breather from the hours of training and tension, an escape from the daily sacrifice and sweat theater life requires,” said Bolle, who is seen dancing on the beach and warmly embracing a fresh-faced Jenner in the video. “These are fragments of Italian inspiration and we want to show the Italian style in the world.  It’s a joyful campaign and I think this

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Rossignol Men’s Fall 2018

For Rossignol’s Studio collection, Andrea Pompilio showed respect for the history of the brand and said he wished to “telegraph the precision and technicality” of the company’s expertise in the mountains for “daily, performing city pieces.”
The designer highlighted Rossignol’s down jackets, rendering them season-less and ultralight. Pompilio layered the pieces, designed to be combined freely. A standout look comprised a padded corduroy jacket with knitwear intarsia and a removable ecological shearling collar, worn over comfortable and loose pied-de-poule pants.
Functional details, such as snap-hooks and ski-lift badges, became decorative elements for the city, as did mesh pockets, applied on the sleeves of a checkered shirt in vivid and contrasting orange and blue.

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Cycling does not harm men’s sexual health, study says

The sexual and urinary health of cyclists is comparable with runners and swimmers, a study suggests.
BBC News – Health
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Palm Angels Men’s Fall 2018

The American Midwest and punk — the clash between these two inspirations was at the core of Palm Angels’ fresh and energetic collection, which was deeply rooted in a contemporary, street-savvy aesthetic.
“As always, I wanted to present my personal take on unconventional aspects of American culture,” said creative director Francesco Ragazzi backstage.
The designer created an interesting mashup of contrasting elements, such as cowboy shirts and classic five-pocket jeans rendered in signature white, red and yellow punk tartan patterns. These were also splashed on Palm Angels’ signature tracksuits, while colorblocked leather perfecto jackets were embellished with metal spikes.
A reproduction of the iconic “American Gothic” painting by Grant Wood unexpectedly popped up on pants, jackets and hoodies, while a gray suit featuring a suede insert on the jacket was printed with a micro floral motif.
The irreverent, rebellious look of the men’s collection, highlighted by the studded balaclavas worn by the models, was translated into a range of women’s looks. These included mini tartan and leather skirts worn with halter-neck tops, crochet-inspired vests and latex polo shirts. The brand’s tracksuit silhouette informed the shape of a dress with ergonomic cuts while a strapless evening gown was cinched at the waist with a Western

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Joe Alwyn Attends Prada Men’s Fall 2018 Show

PUT YOUR HAT ON: On the men’s fall runway, Miuccia Prada chose to identify the models wearing or carrying the four unique items created by Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec, Konstantin Grcic, Herzog & de Meuron and Rem Koolhaas with a bright yellow nylon bucket hat. The use of nylon was the only brief the creative talents received to design their pieces, said Grcic, as part of the “Prada Invites” project.  “I was thinking of making a bag that you wear, and the first reference was a fishing net with pockets, but it became a more abstract interpretation and then an apron with many pockets,” said Grcic, whose studio is based in Munich. While the item was conceived in “one day and a half” before Christmas, Grcic said that he “knew [Prada’s] professional team could swing this. In all projects in collaboration with expert craftsmen or engineers, a project can be propelled onto another level.”
Ronan Bouroullec opined that Prada for this project was looking for “fresh blood from outside the fashion culture, and most virgin [at fashion].” Like Grcic, he said he felt entirely free to experiment and that, given the speed at which the item was developed, “it felt sort

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The Pulse of Men’s Industry Strong at Pitti Uomo

FLORENCE — The energy at the Pitti Uomo show was electric as the industry continued to bask in a solid end to 2017 and was eagerly anticipating further gains this year.
But at the same time, some familiar faces were either late in arriving at the show or dressed in some new duds, since many attendees who started their international journey at New York’s John F. Kennedy International Airport arrived in Florence without their luggage. The so-called “bombogenesis” snowstorm on Jan. 4 resulted in thousands of canceled flights and even more lost bags, many of which were still sitting on a runway at the airport this week.
But while they may have had to snip the price tags off their spanking new outfits, Pitti attendees made the best of the situation — and helped the local retail economy at the same time before turning to the business at hand, which was to peruse the typical wide variety of fall merchandise ranging from accessories and footwear to luxury sportswear.
Roopal Patel, senior vice president of fashion director for Saks Fifth Avenue, said she was “very energized” by her first visit to Pitti Uomo. “I feel like this is the nucleus of men’s wear on a

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Versace Men’s Fall 2018

“Go big – and go home,” was Donatella Versace’s rallying cry for this joyful, post-modern mash-up of preppy, punk, street – and Versace Home accessories. She said the season was all about “dressing in layers” and smiled as she talked about the home furnishings flourishes on the clothes: Thick, gold fabric fringe snaking its way across jackets and sweatshirts, fabric tassels swinging from bags and belt hoops, and bold swirling medallion prints on puffers, coats and long hoodie tops.
This standout collection had an exaggerated, Archie Comics feel to it – but more the updated Riverdale version – what with the bright, clashing colors, mixed-up plaid patchworks and printed silks. The designer sliced up tartans of different shapes, colors and sizes and patched them back together for men’s and women’s jackets, coats and quilted shirts, and layered turtlenecks and sweaters in eye-searing shades of orange, lime green and fuchsia under sharply-tailored pinstripe suits. Velvets covered with Versace medallion and shadowy stained-glass window prints were scattered across stretchy dresses, puffers with attitude and fluid track bottoms that could have doubled as pajamas.
A tiger print prowled across long coats and short jackets while a more romantic Venus and Cupid one flashed across electric

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Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Men’s Fall 2018

The show space was striking: a snowy runway set by Swiss artist Thomas Flechtner in a Brutalist university faculty building in Milan’s Université Bocconi designed by Grafton Architects.
But the collection’s strength was in the detail and the process, with Alessandro Sartori plucking from the “natural reserves” of Oasi Zegna, the family’s natural park in northern Italy, to expand the definition of luxury.
“One of [Flechtner’s] works is exactly about a modern vision of snow landscapes….This idea of presenting a juxtaposition of craft and technical, handmade and sharp in a Brutalist architecture to me is the same type of philosophy,” said the designer during a preview of the collection.
A new fabric — Oasi Cashmere — came dipped in natural dyes made from flowers, herbs, wood, leaves and roots, developed by Lanificio Zegna over 12 years and using an entirely chemical-free process involving a multilayer deep dyeing process. A small revolution, producing even fluorescent and black tones. (It ain’t called couture for nothing.)
Experimental fabrics — courtesy of Bonotto SpA, the high-end textile manufacturer that Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquired last year — included a matte cotton and wool-blend corduroy used for jackets, and a new woven leather fabric best showcased on a tennis-bag-style, single-strap backpack.
The innovation

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Brooks Brothers Men’s Fall 2018

Brooks Brothers presented an impressive array of its greatest hits during its first runway show that celebrated the roots of American men’s wear.
The company, which turns 200 years old in 2018, kicked off the party with a special event at the Pitti Uomo show in Florence. The brand borrowed the spectacular Palazzo Vecchio for a multipronged event that opened with the runway show and transitioned to a retrospective and private dinner hosted by Brooks’ owner Claudio Del Vecchio.
The show, which featured 51 looks — 43 men’s and eight women’s — was a nod to founder Henry Sands Brooks’ roots as a disruptor. With a live performance by the Orchestra Filarmonica Italiana as the backdrop — playing “Empire State of Mind” as a nod to its New York history — the company presented modern interpretations of the button-down shirt, repp tie and other innovations that have since become men’s wear classics.
Suit jackets tucked into pants so they doubled as shirts, trench coats worn inside out and seersucker suits worn under tweed blazers were all featured during the show. Among the standouts were head-turning topcoats, madras shirts and shorts and lush shearling in the season-less collection.
There were also subtle references to some

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Bobby Abley Men’s Fall 2018

Bobby Abley often turns to popular culture for inspiration — everyone from the Teletubbies to the Power Rangers have made appearances in his high-energy shows.
For fall, he teamed with Warner Bros. and made the Looney Tunes characters the focal point of his collection: Tweety was embroidered on a bright yellow marabou sweater, a pair of fluffy gray dungarees paid homage to Bugs Bunny and intarsia knits featured everyone from Sylvester to Daffy Duck.
Muppet-like faux fur also played a key role, splashed all over roomy parkas and bomber jackets.
Even though this was familiar territory for Abley, the collection didn’t feel old. His fun, light-hearted approach to dressing was welcome at a time of all-round uncertainty.
The designer also played with contrasts, adding crystal embellishments or lace panels on baggy tracksuits and oversize outerwear.
“I’m not here to show a gender-neutral collection but blurring the lines a little bit is always good,” Abley said after the show.

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London Fashion Week Men’s Fall 2018: Ones to Watch

John Alexander Skelton
Born and raised in York, John Alexander Skelton received his master’s in fashion men’s wear at Central Saint Martins and took on internships at E. Tautz and Patrik Ervell before launching his label last year. Selected by Giles Deacon, Skelton is a recipient of the Sarabande scholarship, an initiative from The Lee Alexander McQueen Foundation that aids young designers. He is working out of a studio at Sarabande in east London.
Sustainability is a key theme for Skelton, who incorporates repurposed materials into his ranges and takes a DIY approach to his work. He has a loom in his studio and many of his fabrics are handwoven, as is much of his knitwear. “Everything I dye is also done by hand using natural dye. The handcrafted element is my signature, in a way,” said the designer.
For fall 2018, Skelton has been working with mills in Ireland, mixing British wool and Irish linen.
“I have been doing a lot of hand weaving, as well, on the loom. I have also done a few natural dyes this time, one using an ancient European dye, the European version of indigo, called woad,” he said.
Skelton’s main focus has always been on the process and

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Florsheim

Men’s Fashion Week: How Tinie Tempah went from charts to catwalks

The musician is set to debut his latest clothing collection as part of Men’s Fashion Week.
BBC News – Entertainment & Arts

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London College of Fashion Spotlights MA Men’s Wear Collections

FRESH TALENT: London College of Fashion’s graduating MA men’s wear students showcased their collections on Friday with a runway show ahead of London Fashion Week Men’s.
Ten students from the fashion design technology men’s wear course presented their ranges at St John’s Smith Square in Westminster, in the show styled by Adele Cany. The strongest lineups came from Hanni Yang, Ying Yi Lu, Hengmin Lu, Sohyeon Park and Xu Bo.
Yang, who has worked with Teatum Jones and Céline, explored pattern-cutting and worked scarves onto the garments. She sent out a range of tailored-yet-relaxed looks and draped burgundy and cream silk scarves over a white men’s wear shirt and burgundy trousers.
Ying Yi Lu looked to young boys of the Victorian era and focused on tailoring, as in a cropped blue pinstripe suit. Lu topped off the looks with sailor style hats done in collaboration with Atelier Millinery.
Hengmin Lu — who has worked with Ports 1961 — was inspired by the architecture of the Chairman Mao era. Lu explored functionality and pattern cutting as seen on a long brown coat, worn over a white shirt with a mandarin collar and white knee-length shorts. The student teamed with JKJY Handcraft Fashion Ltd. Shanghai on

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Wood Wood Men’s Fall 2018

“St Elmo’s Fire” and “The Breakfast Club,” those pivotal Eighties films about the struggle into adulthood, inspired Karl-Oskar Olsen and Brian Jensen’s strong fall 2018 collection for Wood Wood.
A cast of young adults projected angst in clothes that drew on American collegiate style. For the men, there were varsity and denim jackets, preppy chinos and classic woolen coats with detachable nylon hoods.
A cropped jacket in a snappy red, white and navy check – worn over a turtleneck T-shirt and paired with a pair of white trousers – was especially cool and had a privileged frat boy charm. Tough black boots added a grunge edge.
Wholesome patchwork blankets were subverted and reinterpreted into silk prints that looked great in a slouchy tracksuit in dark colors.
The women’s wear offering saw tan corduroy – a nod to Molly Ringwald’s prim character in “The Breakfast Club” – deployed in a jeans jacket and matching pants, and in a button-front mini that was worn with a striped knit, socks and boots.
A nice wool pantsuit in a muted green check came with a violet turtleneck, and was the Wood Wood girl’s most adult moment, tempered with trainers, lest her disdain for grown-up conventions be unclear.

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Milan Men’s Fashion Week Reflects Industry Changes

MILAN — The latest Milan Men’s Fashion Week schedule reflects the changes in the men’s wear industry, according to Carlo Capasa, president of Italy’s Camera Nazionale della Moda.
“The concept of how men’s wear is shown has changed and so has the concept of the calendar — everything is combined together and there is more and more cross-pollination,” Capasa contended. “The shift is real.”
The shows will start on Jan. 12 with the Ermenegildo Zegna evening show and will end on Jan. 15, anchored by the Giorgio Armani and Fendi shows. Overall, the runway shows will be 31 in total.
Capasa said the evolution has led the association to create a new format for the calendar, which now “combines presentations and shows in a single tale that each brand offers in line with its own aesthetic and vision.”
The first chapter of coed shows, as Capasa called it, will take place in January, followed by the second chapter in February. Next month these will include Diesel Black Gold; the Italian brand Isabel Benenato founded by Isabel Vitiello; Neil Barrett; Marcelo Burlon County of Milan; Dsquared2; Daks; Sartorial Monk; Palm Angels; GCDS, and Frankie Morello. A number of brands, including Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Missoni, have chosen to

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Men’s Spring 2018 Trend: Patch It Up

Ever more freewheeling, men’s wear boasts logos galore, streetwear and retro touches, plus bold prints.
 
Grooming by Amanda Wilson at Opus Beauty
Models: Aly N’Diaye and Andrew Muns at Red Model Management; Clement Cornebize and Luke Blake at Wilhelmina

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Balmain Features $40,000 Baseball Jacket in Debut Men’s Pre-Collection

CRYSTAL VISIONS: Developing daywear may be on the agenda at Balmain as part of the house’s growth strategy under its new chief executive officer, Massimo Piombini, but there’s no letting go of the glitz. Case in point — a crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $ 40,000 that hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection.
Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the weighty item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director Olivier Rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday.
Also rich in denim, jersey and knitwear, the expansive pre-fall 2018 men’s lineup spans casual fare and blinged-out items fit for the stage. “There is the same diversity as for the women’s,” said the designer. The brand counts personalities including Cristiano Ronaldo, Justin Bieber, Kanye West and Zayn Malik among its devotees, but is also “looking to attract a broader male audience” as part of its international expansion. Men’s wear currently represents around 40 percent of total sales.
Rousteing described the collection as a mirror reflection of the Balmain woman, but also

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Will you care about men’s Olympic hockey if neither NHL, KHL take part?

The NHL had already decided to skip the 2018 Games. The KHL’s potential absence in light of the IOC’s ruling could drain the talent pool even further, but hard-core hockey fans will still find compelling action and storylines to savor.
www.espn.com – NHL

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