Roksanda Pre-Fall 2019

Looking to artist Rana Begum’s geometric patterns, optical tricks and fluorescent color palette, Roksanda Ilincic worked up a collection with a sporty-couture feel and a mix of smooth surfaces and rough edges. Highlights included taffeta gowns with pouf sleeves, fabric flower appliqués with frayed edges, and black scribble embroidery.
 

Roksanda Pre-Fall 2019 
Courtesy Photo

 
Other dresses – long and short – were adorned with cutout organza panels and more of those naif embroidered scribbles and looked as if they were designed by freewheeling art students. Another dress had a dramatic cape at the back and was covered with blurry, colored panels. For day, there were pleats and tucks galore on dresses made from long strips of mismatched, patterned fabric, or from lightweight cotton silk gazar in flouro pink or orange.
 

Roksanda Pre-Fall 2019 
Courtesy Photo

 
A pair of cream linen silk trousers came with color-blocked pastel racing stripes down the side, while a tailored jacket was an elegant patchwork of energy drink green and powdery blue. While many of the silhouettes in this upbeat collection were breezy, bright and dreamy, but there was a strictness to this collection, too, in the form of a pea green wool boucle coat and long matching skirt, and a sturdy cream

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Koché Pre-Fall 2019

For the second year in a row, Christelle Kocher staged a pre-fall show for her label Koché in New York. Last time the French designer chose The Strand for her venue, this time Planet Hollywood, where the show took place in the restaurant on the second floor, with regular patrons seated around the runway. Kocher decided on Planet Hollywood because of her fascination with American pop culture, Hollywood and presumably for its kitschy, kooky interiors, which jibed with the collection’s sensibility. Since she’s not a local, she’s forgiven for picking a spot smack in the middle of Times Square, i.e., the eighth circle of hell.
Kocher showed men’s and women’s clothes that demonstrated the play between sport and couture elements, such as dresses made from polo shirts and soccer jerseys and feather trims, that are the basis for the label. “I wanted to add a dialogue with popular culture in America, while working on all my codes,” Kocher said after the show, noting that an uptick in “femininity and more happy colors” were the goal. The latter was front and center with an emphasis on hot pink and teal worked on glam feathered coats, suits, smocked dresses and wide-leg tailored trousers. Men

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A.L.C. Pre-Fall 2019

Andrea Lieberman has come to grips with the fact that pre-fall is actually summer. She designed accordingly. The whole collection was built around light but sturdy fabrics — i.e. cotton poplin — in easy-to-wear silhouettes that applied to summer weddings, working in the city or lounging at the beach. “All of our customers are really buying in season,” Lieberman said. “We tried to look for fabrics that had a really beautiful integrity and felt seasonally appropriate and expensive.”
Lieberman’s choice of parachute cotton for wrapped dresses with discreet cutouts, slits and hardware details was spot on. It took color well — bright green and blue — but also looked great in neutral black, white and khaki. It was also used on suiting separates and eyelet tops which will go a long way in summer wardrobe. The rest of the lineup was about fleshing out a cool, easy wardrobe: tanks and crop tops in Lieberman’s signature compression knits; high-waisted pants; the perfect shirtdress in a python print, and a tie-dyed sweater that captured A.L.C.’s California vibe.

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Chloé Pre-Fall 2019

Natacha Ramsay-Levi built on the key elements that have become associated with the Chloé look since taking over the creative helm three seasons ago, moving between the clashing colors and prints of the line’s Seventies mix and a more proper bourgeois vibe à la Eighties — with a dash of Victoriana in the tie-neck blouses.
“The way we do fashion now is a lot about remixes and transformation, doing something new with something old,” she said.
The collection’s boho vibe was on fine form, as always without too much of a romantic tilt, with the designer folding feminine soft elements like printed silk blouses and scarves into hard-edged looks. Key ingredients included Carnaby Street-inspired velvet; trompe l’oeil-printed houndstooth fabrics that gave a horsey, “Wuthering Heights” flavor, and utilitarian wear.
Standout silhouettes included a flower-print, high-neck sweater with billowing sleeves and long, ribbed cuffs worn under a silk dress in a patchwork of flower prints with asymmetric flounces; a black silk, Victoriana-style, tie-neck blouse with a big, white, lace collar worn with high-waisted flared shorts in a cool, wool, check fabric; and a high-neck blouse in a bourgeois, chain-link print with a signature horse logo, jacquard, knitted vest, worn with ultra-long, flared purple pants.
Giving a palpable accessories push, the

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Prabal Gurung Pre-Fall 2019

The 2019 Golden Globes nominations were revealed last week, which means celebrity stylists will be clamoring to secure the most desirable evening looks for the next few months. Lucky for them, Prabal Gurung always goes gown-heavy each pre-fall. There were some truly glamorous options here with a thoughtful degree of comfort, such as an elegant pale pink gown cut with abandon, a sexy sequined hybrid wrap dress and an alluring wrinkle-free red jersey gown with an asymmetric neckline that could be fussed around any which way.
But it wasn’t all glitz and glam, and the simultaneously optimistic and casual thread of the ready-to-wear could be attributed to Gloria Steinem and the influx of elected female leaders to the House of Representatives in November. Bell-bottom jeans and a denim shirtdress with colorful contrast stitching winked at the women’s movement in the Seventies, while a tailored plaid blazer with playful bell sleeves was without question for confident, empowered women of today. Gurung championed a sense of eclectic freedom in the vibrant mix of colors (an orange suit, a turquoise sequined gown), and prints (saturated tiger prints on a lightweight shirtdress; actual tigers on a silky pajama top, a notable trend for the season).
Men’s

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Nicole Miller Pre-Fall 2019

Nicole Miller featured her pre-fall collection on a character who embodied its mix of tough and tender — model and professional skydiver Alyona Subbotina.
“I had such a strong personality wear them. She worked into the story because I felt I always design for that strong girl who has the feminine soft side and the edge together,” Miller mused. Camouflage prints with tiny flowers were mixed with dark floral prints on multiple easy dresses, and most memorably on an oversize utility coat. One little black dress had bows sewn all over it. “If you’re a goody-two-shoe, you make it all bows, and if you’re a badass, you make it all knots or let it hang, but I showed it half and half for duality,” the designer explained.
Miller referred to her light-colored floral frocks as “the sweeter things in life,” and mixed in bomber jackets and half-leather, half-cotton denim pants to toughen them up.

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R13 Pre-Fall 2019

R13’s Chris Leba is in the throes of consolidating his offices into a new downtown space — and gearing up to open his first brick-and-mortar store on the ground level sometime next year. Women’s market is in full swing, then men’s, then women’s again.
He drew light inspiration for his pre-fall from Sofia Coppola’s film “Marie Antoinette,” enticed by its frivolity and baroque elements. Subtle winks to the film were seen in the ruffles on billowing button-down shirts, and sand-washed floral-printed silks rendered into easy and sexy tops with animal print accents. Otherwise, the collection featured Leba’s usual balance of eccentric punk, tailoring and inventive denim.
At the core of the collection were young, exciting, wearable clothes with gender-ambiguous undertones. A bleached group of suiting and sweatshirts with safety-pin embellishments provided edge to more formal men’s-inspired attire, and upcycled vintage motorcycle jackets which are specially studded in Los Angeles and can’t easily be replicated. One effortlessly cool pinstriped blazer was cut generously and studded along the lapels. Leba noted many of the tailored items could end up in the men’s line, following a recent trend of gender-fluid design.
He thrived when using denim to experiment with new, inventive shapes, such as jackets with

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Jonathan Simkhai Pre-Fall 2019

Jonathan Simkhai swirled all of his categories — ready-to-wear, swim and new lingerie — into his pre-fall lineup. Inspiration gleaned from a trip to Morocco resulted in an overarching theme of disco glamour and rich color derived from turmeric gold and bougainvillea pink and magenta to tie everything together, though there was diversity in the range. Many styles came with built-in lingerie layering pieces that solved the problem posed by wanting to create a louche look without struggling to find slips and underpinnings in the right lengths, colors and fabrications. For example, a magenta slipdress was layered over a lace turtleneck slip and a blazer came with a detachable camisole underlayer.
“I think it’s a nice thing,” said Simkhai of the pre-styled looks. “I’ve seen things like jackets with sweatshirts that you can zip out. I kind of love and hate the idea, but I thought it was interesting. How do I make it elevated and sexy? By building in the slips and lingerie.”
Lounge-y glamour came in blush-toned jacquard pajamas and a shimmery blazer and matching shorts. And if there’s such a thing as day-to-night swimwear, Simkhai’s retro glamour shapes could take you from the pool to the club depending on how

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Dennis Basso Pre-Fall 2019

“This collection is about from the boardroom to the ballroom,” Dennis Basso began. “In this collection, I used men’s wear-inspired fabrics in a completely feminine way. Also, going from Indian Summer into pre-fall, because pre-fall isn’t really winter; I took a deep look into it while incorporating city to country.”
Basso’s ultrafeminine interpretation of men’s wear for women’s wear meant pinstriped dresses with lace trim, exaggerated houndstooth shapes came beaded — embroidered on a lime cocktail dress or graphic ballgown, as well as in sable on a lightweight organza jacket. Fur jackets were rendered for the lighter season in multiple bolero styles.
The collection leaned far more city than country, in a good way, and aside from men’s wear inspired, there was a stronger assortment of simpler, sportier garb. A color-blocked evening gown, a great pair of black leather trousers, a pink silk jumpsuit and trouser with brocade top, and a sheared mink and leather moto jacket. A sable and jersey zip-up jacket paired back with a sable miniskirt made for another great option for Basso’s younger clientele.

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Lorod Pre-Fall 2019

For pre-fall, Lorod’s Lauren Rodriguez mashed up the brand’s signature play on workwear and American craft details with a playful spirit à la sporty uniforms and new takes on fashionable utilitarian garb. Inspiration from “A League of Their Own” resulted in a lightweight washed silk baseball dress and bowling shoes, a part of their third collaboration with Manolo Blahnik, with stitching meant to resemble baseballs while sporty ephemera pictorials were scattered on tighter under layers in a “(Robert) Rauschenberg-inspired assemblage-collage.”
While it was unclear of cofounder Michael Freels’ involvement for the latest collection, creative director and cofounder Rodriguez mentioned she’s running the show solo, and impressively so. Workwear-inspired denim and suiting was offered for the first time in men’s sizing, although the brand has been long worn by both genders, as were crafty knits, another expanded category, that paid homage to American craft with whipstitching and patchwork.
From polka-dotted or apricot-colored suiting to fine-gauge knits with swirly folds that mimicked the coiled lining of air force uniform flight jackets, the lineup felt fresh while adhering to the strengths of the brand’s DNA.

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Erdem Pre-Fall 2019

Erdem Moralioglu loves a strong female character, and in the past has looked to figures including a young Queen Elizabeth II, Adele Astaire, and the artists Sylvia Fein and Hannah Höch for seasonal inspiration. This time around, he trained his eyes on Dame Laura Knight, the first woman artist to be fully elected to The Royal Academy in London.
He looked both to Knight’s impressionistic paintings and to her personal, boyish style in an elegant collection filled with Forties shapes, lush fabrics, nipped waists, bold prints and embroidery.

Erdem Pre-Fall 2019 
Courtesy Photo

He shot the collection at The Royal Academy on Piccadilly, conjuring the woman and her art. Pinstripe suits came with elongated jackets, some of which were belted and paired with cropped trousers. Capturing the artist at work, he whipped up a cotton jacquard boiler suit adorned with big, blooming flowers and a bejeweled collar.
Outerwear was also a marriage of masculine and feminine in the form of a tailored frock coat in lipstick pink and a belted cotton trench awash in embroidered white flowers.

Erdem Pre-Fall 2019 
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There were dresses galore, for day and night — and different moods — including a hand-pleated, flower print gown with ruffled edges and a pink lace one cinched

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Tadashi Shoji Pre-Fall 2019

A dark and moody palette inspired by views of a garden at night proved to be the backbone of Tadashi Shoji’s latest collection. Florals and vines came in abundance — printed, rendered in lace, sequined — on a variety of occasion dresses. Some worked, as in an off-theme, floor-length black gown with built-in capelet in his signature embroidery, which is more often seen in his bridal collection, but welcomed in ready-to-wear, or an off-the-shoulder purple and green embroidered floral gown. Printed jersey knit offerings, from caftans to shorter cocktail dresses, felt less refined. The designer also carried over two ombré offerings from spring, but this time as full-length, ruched and tiered gowns.

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Sally LaPointe Pre-Fall 2019

Real or faux? As the great fur debate has moved brands passionately one way or the other, Sally LaPointe has kept her cool. The designer has become synonymous with covetable fur-accented sweaters and, with the launch of e-commerce earlier this year, has certainly seen a demand for fox fur. But she also introduced faux fur and shearling for resort and has seen interest here from a younger, more conscientious clientele.
She continued to expand that fur language into pre-fall, using fox fur as trimming on cozy-yet-sleek knitwear while utilizing faux fur and shearling in bold, statement outerwear. The brand is founded upon the principle of casual yet cool glam, so a faux-fur duster was grounded with a cut-and-sew wool alpaca set or sequined pants and a turtleneck, topped off by silver o-ring zipper pulls.
The collection’s Nineties tinge was drawn from men’s wear, which influenced soft tailoring done in dusty yellows and blues, sweatsuits made from Lurex and merino wool, and pinstripes fashioned into a standout graphic cashmere and merino wool top and pant. No look better defined the retro men’s influence than knit basketball shorts and a sweater set cut in a yummy papaya hue. Buttery suede separates, elevated silky pajama

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Dior Men’s Pre-Fall 2019

TOKYO — The future of men’s fashion is here.
That was the feeling at Kim Jones’ first pre-fall show for Dior, which was held in a towering circular space inside a steel and glass building on an island of reclaimed land in Tokyo Bay. At the center of the venue was Japanese contemporary artist Hajime Sorayama’s nearly 40-foot-tall metallic sculpture of a sexy female robot figure.
Many of the looks Jones sent around the runway gleamed as brightly as the robot did, with metallic Tyvek jackets, iridescent jacquard suits, polished metal saddle bags, and steel baseball caps by Stephen Jones all vying for attention. A down puffer jacket in metallic blue seemed to trick the eyes, looking different from every angle.
“It’s actually a black garment that gets put into a vacuum and the metal is then sucked through it and sticks to it. So each thing comes out slightly different,” Jones said. “So you get these imperfections, which look beautiful and give more of a sort of personality to the work, and I think that applies nicely to a couture house.”
But as futuristic as some of the pieces were, Jones said his inspiration came mainly from the history of the house. He

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Altuzarra RTW Pre-Fall 2019

The day after Joseph Altuzarra’s spring show in September, he took off for Morocco. It felt good to get out, go somewhere unfamiliar. He wanted to use that gung-ho energy of curiosity and adventure to push his next collection aesthetically without making it Moroccan-themed. “I just felt so empowered by leaving and going somewhere new and seeing new things,” Altuzarra said during a preview of his pre-fall lineup. “I wanted this collection to be about this autonomous, free, strong-willed explorer woman.”
Altuzarra has been careful, strategic and smart about working within his established language for a while. It was time to get outside his comfort zone. He did so by weaving shorter silhouettes — miniskirts, dresses and tailored shorts — and pieces that addressed the ongoing casualization of dress codes the world over — blue jeans, cashmere sweat suits, corduroy blazers, bombers and pants — while keeping it sophisticated. Everything, whether updates on Altuzarra signatures, or the new looks, was cut and styled with New Romantic ideas in mind. There were ruffled blouses, printed and draped jersey dresses, carrot-shaped tailored pants, as well as scarf dresses, blouses and knits all sparkling with Lurex. Accessories accentuated the Eighties nostalgia in ways both

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Tory Burch Pre-Fall 2019

Georgia O’Keeffe — a perfect fashion muse for now, independent to the core, urbane and earthy, her defiance of convention manifested in an appealing sartorial practicality. She offers a wealth of visual imagery to mine, both in her work and the portraits of her by her husband, Alfred Stieglitz.
“I just love her, and how she went against the norm,” Tory Burch said during a walk-through of her pre-fall collection. “She was a person who wasn’t going to wear a corset, and she wore flats. Just the way she approached nature and her subjects is fascinating to me.”
That fascination led to an investigative trip to Santa Fe and O’Keeffe’s famed Ghost Ranch, from which Burch drew inspiration for her lineup. It features clean, unfettered silhouettes with hints the artist’s own style — crisp shirtdresses, an unfussy smocked number, subtle Japanese touches. From O’Keeffe’s work, Burch took saturated shades of warm, russets and reds played against sober navy, ivory black and white. She also incorporated abstract prints, bold stripes, cowhide and unfussy decorative elements such as mirror embroideries for an aura of casual confidence. Burch also worked in the occasional embroidered slipdress. Whether a nod to O’Keeffe’s New York years or merely

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Valentino RTW and Men’s Pre-Fall 2019

TOKYO — A day after unveiling a new retail concept at its Ginza flagship store, Valentino staged its first runway show in Japan since the Eighties, with creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli also showing women’s wear and men’s wear together for the first time.
“In Japan and in the world today, I don’t think you feel such a difference between genders,” the designer said. “It’s a different way of working, but the philosophy behind men and women I think is the same. So the clothes are different, a different wardrobe, but the values are the same.”
Piccioli drew on classic couture detailing for women and tailoring for men, but reimagined them in a more modern way that is more appropriate for every day.
“I didn’t want to do streetwear or daywear generically,” he said. “I wanted to get the identity of the house, but going into the street.”
The result was a pre-fall collection that struck a perfect balance between red-carpet drama and practicality. Many of the most iconic codes of Valentino could be found yet refreshed. Flowers, such as those that adorned the dress Marisa Berenson was photographed in for Vogue in 1968, showed up as tiny buds adorning a knit dress with rows

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Jil Sander RTW Pre-Fall 2019

Lucie and Luke Meier continue to reshape the image of the Jil Sander label with a balance between elegance and coolness. Those customers who cried after Phoebe Philo exited Celine will find plenty of options here to satisfy their needs for revamped minimalism — long a Sander signature, going back to the days of the brand’s founder.
Generous yet graphic shapes, sculptural yet simple silhouettes, straightforward yet comforting messages — the designers played with contrasting forces, which they balanced in a wardrobe translating an idea of intellectual, elevated and empowered femininity.
The Meiers like to play with a sense of coziness, from the roomy cashmere coats layered over mannish suits and the flocked ample tops and dresses worked in wallpaper-like patterns to the super soft oversize padded outerwear wrapping around the body.
Checkered blankets became sophisticated fringed tops and coats, while floral eyelet brought a feminine touch to chic separates with a sartorial feel.
A hint of discreet eccentricity was added with the patchwork of striped motifs, rendered on graphic shirts, crewneck tops, pants with buttons running down the legs and pencil skirts, highlighting the playful side of the Jil Sander woman.

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Etro Pre-Fall 2019

“Artsy Craftsy” was the name of Etro’s pre-fall collection. “The collection is inspired by strong women such as art collectors who like to travel and love bold colors, patterns and unique techniques,” said the brand’s women’s wear creative director Veronica Etro, highlighting the artistic spirit she infused into her lineup. This visually impactful flair, conveyed with a flamboyant métissage of paisley motifs, floral graphics, jacquard drawings and bold colorblocking, refreshed the nomadic attitude traditionally associated with the Milanese brand.
While playing with rich fabrics, prints and textures, Etro kept the silhouettes clean and linear. Eye-catching patchwork coats and jackets, including a blazer crafted from a tactile, 3-D material and trimmed with contrasting piping, were matched with cropped, slightly flared denim pants or fluid, silk trousers showing asymmetric prints running down the legs.
The breezy dresses had a vibrant feel, evoking Latin American rhythms, while elegant styles in solid black, including a chic belted evening jacket cut from a technical fabric and a cashmere coat, revealed subtle tone-on-tone decorations for a more discreet take on Etro’s signature maximalist style.

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Versace to Hold Pre-Fall Show in New York

NEW YORK BOUND: Donatella Versace will hold her Versace pre-fall collection in New York on Dec. 2 at 7 p.m., WWD has learned. The date has a special meaning for the designer, as it is her late brother Gianni’s birthday. Details about the location are being kept under wraps. This is the first time Versace plans a fashion show for the pre-fall season.
It is understood the decision to show in New York was made before the acquisition of the company last month by Michael Kors Holdings Ltd.. In a $ 2.1 billion deal, Versace joined the Kors and Jimmy Choo brands under the Michael Kors Holdings umbrella, which is renaming itself Capri Holdings to reflect the growing and changing group.
The first week of December is shaping up as quite a fashionable one, as Chanel has scheduled its Métiers d’Art collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art on Dec. 4, as reported.
Other brands are bringing their pre-fall collections outside national borders. As reported, Valentino will hold a runway show in Tokyo on Nov. 27 to present its men’s and women’s pre-fall 2019 collection together for the first time, and Dior plans to stage its first men’s pre-fall runway show with a collection designed by Kim

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Burnett New York to Bow for Pre-Fall With $2.5 Million From Investors

Out on her own for the first time, Emily Burnett has lined up some well-placed investors for the new Burnett New York ready-to-wear, cocktail dresses and eveningwear line.
In June, Burnett exited Dennis Basso after a 10-year run. She inadvertently met her future cofounder and co-chief executive officer Sterling McDavid at the designer’s company. Pre-fall will be the first collection for the new label.
McDavid said she visited 20 couture houses in search of a wedding gown, before deciding on Dennis Basso, where Burnett was working at the time. “My experience at Dennis Basso with Emily, Dennis and the whole team was so positive, uplifting and I felt that I was part of this design process,” she said.
McDavid’s understanding of fashion started with her great-grandmother, who was a seamstress. Her mother had a keen interest in fashion and took McDavid to her first fashion show around the age of 10. Over the years, McDavid got to know numerous designers through her network, as well as her mother’s, but she said Burnett stood out. So much so that McDavid asked the designer how was it that she was not working independently. Like many designers, the idea of starting a signature company was something

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Roland Mouret Pre-Fall 2018

Roland Mouret said he wanted a collection that was all about movement, lightness and freedom and, to wit, played with volume, draping and longer lengths. A long and loose cotton shirtdress had string ties at the wrists and could be worn open or closed at the back. Languid, unlined trenches had epaulet details that melted into the shoulder or came with geometric patterns and fringed edges. Dresses were lightweight and airy, as in a long powder pink one in a textured organza with Mouret’s signature folds around the neck. A featherweight, off-the shoulder gown in Lurex brocade was versatile enough to wear with sneakers or stilettos.

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Zero + Maria Cornejo Pre-Fall 2018

“I’ve been dreaming about going on a trip so this collection is all about my fantasy of going to North Africa. I was inspired by the idea of their beautiful bazaars and being in that eclectic atmosphere.” — Maria Cornejo

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Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2018

Sarah Burton played with contrasts for pre-fall, creating fragile, romantic looks and ones with a more tailored, urban edge. She juxtaposed androgynous tailoring with more decadent lace, knit and embroidered pieces, in a bid to create a “darkly romantic” mood. Long lace tiered tops were layered over tailored pants, while romantic printed dresses were paired with edgier leather harnesses. Blazers featured cutouts and lace appliqués. The collection also had touches of British art nouveau and with the patterns on a pleated silk dress recalling the inky lines of Aubrey Beardsley. The collection was filled with gossamer knit skirts and dresses, some with ruffles, and others with transparent panels that gave the garments a otherworldly look. The collection’s evening offer featured a series of high-shine sequined looks, including a floor-length chiffon gown delicately embroidered to create floral patterns.

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Michael Kors RTW Pre-Fall 2018

“I liked the dichotomy this season of romantic and charming elements mixed with sleek tailoring,” says Michael Kors. “It’s a mix of femininity, polish and athleticism. To me it is the perfect storm for how women want to dress today. The collection is inherently about modern eclecticism.”

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Au Jour Le Jour Pre-Fall 2018

The look of gypsy women served as the starting point for Diego Marquez and Mirko Fontana’s pre-fall collection for Au Jour Le Jour. Instead of taking the inspiration too literally, the duo managed to rework it and nicely incorporate it into an urban wardrobe for hip, young women.
Layering, a key element of the gypsy look, influenced the charming outerwear, which included a style featuring a checkered coat combined with a faux shearling jacket. Aprons were worn over striped Bermuda pants and the inside-out denim skinny trousers. The signature braids of gypsy women echoed in the long embroidered details applied on the backs of cocktail dresses.
The collection also included a range of playful eco-fur chubby coats, patchwork jeans and several pieces, including a plissé midi skirt and a more casual sweatshirt, printed with images of Caravaggio’s still lives with fruits.

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Martin Grant Pre-Fall 2018

Martin Grant just launched a capsule collection for men, so it was hardly surprising that his women’s pre-fall designs had an androgynous slant.
In fact, the designer only slightly tweaked some of his men’s styles — including a trouser suit and an oversize navy coat — to adapt them to the female form. Call it a 180-degree switch: It was his tuxedo design for French director Nicole Garcia that originally led to him creating a similar style for men.
Not that it really matters: Grant’s daywear has always been grounded in luxurious staples, such as this season’s check coat with a removable shearling collar, or a jumbo cord trench. “Quiet luxury — I mean, it’s very much about the fabrics, the textures, a very, very soft fabric feel,” he said of the collection.
A case in point was a fuzzy gray alpaca sweater that read like a very upscale spin on a sweatshirt. It came in a women’s size, but Grant suggested borrowing the men’s version for an even roomier fit. The more overtly feminine options were easy yet chic: lightweight denim pieces with topstitched details, a black jersey turtleneck dress and a cocoon-like camel cape coat.
Grant left the eveningwear for later: As

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Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2018

The rise of ath-leisure has many luxury brands scrambling to produce a version of the ubiquitous sneaker. Fortunately for Louis Vuitton, that wasn’t much of a stretch for its women’s wear designer Nicolas Ghesquière, whose aesthetic has always flirted with sportswear.
His spring collection featured 18th-century-style brocade frock coats paired with chunky trainers, in what many observers saw as the tipping point of the “ugly sneaker” trend. His pre-fall collection cemented the evolution, with not only a new sock sneaker style, but a wardrobe that matched it for ease of wear.
Cinched jackets and neat leather coats provided the working wardrobe options — a kind of loosened-up version of the Sixties-inspired, futuristic tailoring that has French First Lady Brigitte Macron hooked on Vuitton. A gray wool belted jacket, for instance, was paired with black chenille wool track pants and lace-up heels.
By contrast, floor-length skirts were dressed down with casual tops and chunky outerwear. These included a white, side-split skirt that was layered under a gray hoodie embroidered with letters spelling out “Louis Vuitton” — an upscale twist on the logo sweatshirt — and an azure blue fake fur coat.
“We are constantly in movement and on a journey, be it a physical or

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Trussardi Pre-Fall 2018

Reflecting the company’s strategy, aimed at repositioning the Trussardi label in the advanced contemporary segment, creative director Gaia Trussardi delivered a dynamic, urban pre-fall collection.
Athletic references were introduced in a lineup of woman’s staples, including a jersey fitted dress that was updated with a chevron, color-blocked motif and a zipper, as well as a turtleneck sweater featuring a contrasting band on the front and snap fasteners running down the sleeves.
The mannish silhouette of a relaxed suit was balanced by its bubblegum pink color while utilitarian details, such as applied pockets and zips, peppered the range of dark indigo denim pants and skirts.
Trussardi’s leather-crafting skills took center stage in a series of high-end outerwear styles, including a patchwork shearling jacket and a trenchcoat worked in a chic brandy brown tone.

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Luisa Beccaria Pre-Fall 2018

Seventies influences injected a charming twist into Luisa Beccaria pre-fall collection.
While the label is mainly known for its romantic, feminine wedding dresses and evening gowns, the company is expanding its offering to meet the everyday needs of its international customers.
Flannel shirtdresses with exquisite floral embroideries and skirt suits punctuated by butterflies were juxtaposed with more mannish vests paired with culottes for a chic tomboy look.
A range of see-through fabrics were crafted for delicate blouses, while the brand’s signature frocks with tiny front buttons were rendered in wool. Velvet was hand-painted to obtain beautiful color effects on the ruffle dresses and the evening styles displayed the label’s craftsmanship with precious embroideries and applications.

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Andrew Gn Pre-Fall 2018

“I call this collection ‘Jackie O going to Kyoto to meet the royal family of Japan,’” declared Andrew Gn, with his trademark mix of erudition and tongue-in-cheek humor.
In practice, his pre-fall lineup centered on casual chic day options — think oversize coats, ample culottes and ruffled blouses — done in a zingy palette of acid-bright colors.
Key to the look was a woven motif, inspired by a kimono fabric from the Edo period, that blended floral designs with bright dégradé effects, in a nod to his Japanese grandmother and his own penchant for collecting antiques.
The custom-made fabric came in a sky blue-to-lemon yellow variant on a bell-shaped skirt, which was paired with a pale pink blouse in a colorful floral pattern inspired by a Minton porcelain motif. Gn threw in chunky pearls, a sequined handbag and blood-red suede boots for good measure.
“My goal is to do something that cannot be copied within 48 hours,” he said of his soigné aesthetic, with its abundance of handcrafted details. “We’re living in this high-tech world and everything moves so fast. The most luxurious thing now, and also in the future, will be things made by human hands.”
Nonetheless, the designer believes in making life easy

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Erika Cavallini Pre-Fall 2018

The French classic film “The Discreet Charm of the Bourgeoisie” served as the starting point for Erika Cavallini’s pre-fall collection.
According to the designer, the effortless elegance of Seventies bourgeois families inspired the collection, which was focused on balancing uncomplicated silhouettes, vibrant tones and rich fabrics.
A fluid tunic dress was worked in a bright hot pink, while a macro houndstooth set, featuring a knitted cardigan matched with a coordinated pencil skirt, was rendered in yellow and beige.
Velvet coats and pants were paired with tonal blouses while a tunic, worn with matching cropped pants, showed an eccentric sculpted collar.
Mannish references echoed in the suits, including a style showing wide-leg pants and a kimono-inspired jacket, while a shirt dress combined a rigorous silhouette with an eye-catching multicolor striped pattern.

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Christian Wijnants Pre-Fall 2018

Female adventurers like Gertrude Bell helped inspire Belgian designer Christian Wijnants, who continued being influenced by a notion of Persia, as well, while conceiving his pre-fall line.
“This woman was actually here in the summer collection — there were a lot of prints, a lot of scarves,” he said, adding this season the links to Persia are less distinct and more what sparked the notion of how women traveling want clothes that can easily — and comfortably — be worn.
This collection does successfully offer that, with its wide array of wide silhouettes, including broad sleeves and trouser pants, and soft fabrics like silks, cottons and knits — not to mention ample draping.
“I really like it when dresses have movement,” the designer said.
The line also has eye-catching prints, including ethnic floral motifs, in light colors that were developed in-house.
Christian Wijnants the brand celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, and that gave its designer pause. He reviewed the last decade of collections and identified “what I like most to do — the soft dresses, drape-y pieces, knitwear combined with prints,” Wijnants said.

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Christian Wijnants Pre-Fall 2018

Female adventurers like Gertrude Bell helped inspire Belgian designer Christian Wijnants, who continued being influenced by a notion of Persia, as well, while conceiving his pre-fall line.
“This woman was actually here in the summer collection — there were a lot of prints, a lot of scarves,” he said, adding this season the links to Persia are less distinct and more what sparked the notion of how women traveling want clothes that can easily — and comfortably — be worn.
This collection does successfully offer that, with its wide array of wide silhouettes, including broad sleeves and trouser pants, and soft fabrics like silks, cottons and knits — not to mention ample draping.
“I really like it when dresses have movement,” the designer said.
The line also has eye-catching prints, including ethnic floral motifs, in light colors that were developed in-house.
Christian Wijnants the brand celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, and that gave its designer pause. He reviewed the last decade of collections and identified “what I like most to do — the soft dresses, drape-y pieces, knitwear combined with prints,” Wijnants said.

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Miu Miu Pre-Fall 2018

The super fun collection was based on the wardrobe of a well-to-do girl in the Eighties who has a bit of a naughty side.
Miuccia Prada, doing her signature good-taste-bad-taste thing, mixed dowdy girly attire with mannish outerwear, throwing a bomber jacket over a long crepe dress with a bow, say, or layering a purple argyle cardigan over a dress in a mix of white fishnet and lace with a Peter Pan collar.
A blue-and-white striped cotton dress, worn with a navy duffle coat with ribbon ties, had a nightgown feel to it.
There was also an English granny vibe to the collection, with the Victoriana looks, including mourning costume jewelry, and tartan kilts. The Eighties black mohair crochet sweaters, evening dresses worn with mountain boots and patterned knits tucked into metallic flared leather minis added a rock undercurrent.

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Victor Glemaud Pre-Fall 2018

Victor Glemaud focused on making his pre-fall lineup of knits into a complete collection. “I feel like in previous seasons maybe it felt more like items,” Glemaud said during a preview. “Here’s a really a full offering of things to wear all day.” A sporty undercurrent coursed through bright color-blocked takes on varsity sweaters and tipped dresses that felt tennis-inspired. For the office, there were polo shirts, cardigans and thick, slim skirts with a pleated hem. On the more street side of things, there was a crop top, and skirts, sweaters and a pair of biker shorts with peek-a-boo slashes. Finally, three curve-hugging solid, floor-length merino knit dresses with open backs were straight up sexy.

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Trina Turk Pre-Fall 2018

Trina Turk is fully embracing a seasonless, buy-now-wear-now approach to design. She lives in Los Angeles, where it’ll be hot when pre-fall delivers in July, and her customers expect travel escapist fashion that’s lively and lightweight.
The theme for her latest collection was “Found in Translation,” culled from “Pacific Standard Time: LA/LA” exhibitions around Southern California celebrating the cross-pollination of Los Angeles and Latin American fashion. Vibrant splashes of red, pink and blue derived from architecture by Luis Barragán were found on graphic Azulejo Especial (special tile) and Flor de Jalisco floral prints cut into breezy georgette tops, cloth pants and faille dresses. The tile print was cut comfortably into a chic matching tunic and pant set easily imagined on a woman lounging poolside or exploring a bustling city. A punchy floral wrap dress could also transition day-to-night. Most playful were chenille-embroidered sweatshirts and tees that read “Hola LA.” A similar spirit of ease was seen in men’s tunics, two-tone shirting, printed pants and popular jumpsuits, cut this season with a bomber jacket collar. There was plenty of festive flair through textural play and embroidery while maintaining a signature element of lighthearted fun.

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Tibi Pre-Fall 2018

Three days into 2018, Amy Smilovic declared Tibi’s yearlong focus: “This is going to be the year of shoes, bags and China,” she said during a walk-through of the pre-fall collection. The lineup made clear her commitment to her first point with a tight but vibrant assortment of shoes in vivid colors and novelty styles including knee-high burgundy boots with Western details, purple pumps and strappy pink sandals all done in heel heights that were manageable without being mumsy. Smilovic reported exceptional growth in Tibi’s shoe business, crediting a tight offer true to her vision. “We did the same number of stockkeeping units. We don’t have to have a heel height for everyone under the sun,” she said.
As for the clothes, she mostly dashed up the label’s best-selling silhouettes — wide-leg suits; high-waisted pants; modest, midlength dresses with novel back details — with subtle Western references. An ivory dress with an open back tied with a fringed scarf was embroidered with colorful paisley patches. A chicly roomy suit came in mismatched tartan with a quirky Western belt. And if you thought the sweatshirt had reached peak ubiquity, Smilovic managed to make it look new as sophisticated, nylon blend dresses, cardigans

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Brock Collection Pre-Fall 2018

Fabrics were the starting point for Laura Vassar and Kris Brock’s pre-fall collection. The couple has a taste for the traditional, some might say old-fashioned even, tending toward taffeta, lace and an intense jacquard based on an old wallpaper dug up in the fabric library of one of their mills. Yet they balance their old-world romance with an eye for the now. Their signature corsetry was done with raw edges and undone cuts, cut in separates that could be worn with a skirt or layered over one of their fine knit ruffled dresses, or jeans. Working in ultralight cotton voile took the preciousness out of corseted gowns, giving them a sense of comfort and ease that one doesn’t typically associate with corsetry. They also upped their evening offering in silhouettes that felt more edgy and sophisticated compared to some of their flirtier work — a black long-sleeved embroidered slim tulle gown with an elaborate peplum and a similar silhouette in white lace that could easily wonder into bridal territory, a category that’s on the designers’ minds but not in their business plan yet.

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Reem Acra Pre-Fall 2018

A cooler, younger vibe permeated Reem Acra’s mind for pre-fall. Her social media followers are mostly young women, and lately the strategy has been speaking to both them and loyal, more mature, consumers without alienating either. The answer here was injecting evening attire with both attitude and a laid-back sensibility.
She proposed unconventional elements for dressing up, paving the way for comfort and lightness to enter her library. The best examples came in the form of sheer dresses, like a great airy blush number with ribbon straps and a sheer overlay gown connected to a cropped red top. They were edgy, more casual takes on evening, and maintained intricate embroidery for which Acra is known. A striking strapless gown balanced Art Deco with modernity. And embroidered or not, gowns were cut with featherweight fabrics, shorter hemlines, and fell away from body. “This is the trend, lightness,” Acra said at a preview. “They don’t want to be bothered with heaviness. They want to be able to walk and feel cool.” She ensured a thread of youth with offbeat color combinations, separates that transition day-to-evening, and tasteful sheer moments that can resonate with women of any age looking for elegance with whimsy.

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Norma Kamali Pre-Fall 2018

“No one is allowed to say “summer, pre-fall or fall,” exclaimed Normal Kamali of her brand philosophy during her latest collection walk-through. “It’s month to month…if you go out on the street and ask people what’s April/May they’ll say it’s spring; they’re right, we have to stop doing this crazy talk.” For her latest offerings, which will drop during traditional pre-fall drops, Kamali designed a variety of versatile and lively clothes meant to be worn anywhere and everywhere.
The all machine-washable collection was shot, for a third season, on Kamali’s iPhone. This time around, the designer also shot a mix of look book and interview videos between Kamali and three models — Alewya Demmisse of Women, Frances Coombe of Muse and Tian Yi of Fusion — which was inspired by Kamali’s  involvement with Stop Objectification. Whether having a conversation about Citi Bike while wearing tiered, gauze ruffle pants and dresses or talking in-depth about the definition of love while moving around in a great silver lamé long coat and sheer top, the girls brought strong personality and a new light to the clothes. From striped or polka-dotted bright green and black suit sets and fringe dresses to vintage inspired swim and

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Naeem Khan Pre-Fall 2018

Pre-fall delivers in the summer when Naeem Khan’s customers are looking for pieces to wear to a wedding in the Hamptons, a trip to the South of France, or simply something new to carry into fall. Given his evening propensity, there was a lot of glitz, but there was an equal focus on youthful cuts and a sense of lightness as well.
For anyone looking for traditional cocktail glamour, Khan showed an array of silhouettes ranging from a floor-length navy gown with hologram sequins he punched out himself, to gowns with raffia embroidery and flattering cinched waists. Flirty dresses with explosions of firework beading and swishy fringe mixed with lace exuded personality. There was an ease with the embellishments to wit; even though dresses were heavy on beading, they weren’t weighted down. A similar weightlessness was seen in an unlined coat and sweater with hand-sewn chenille; Khan’s older clientele will appreciate the coverup over dresses while younger girls will dress them down with separates. In fact, a focus on more youthful silhouettes resulted in a range of fluid evening pants, jumpsuits embellished with organic materials, and little black dresses mixed with subdued gold. “The young girl, she wants to combine,” Khan

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Emilio Pucci Pre-Fall 2018

Emilio Pucci is definitely associated with glamorous cocktail parties, luxury escapes to posh winter resorts and chic vacations on the Mediterranean islands.
This idea of jet-set lifestyle continues to play a relevant role in the development of the label, but a new sense of urban reality is actually what the Emilio Pucci creative team targeted for pre-fall.
The colorful and chic collection was strong on versatile pieces, still injected with high-end sophistication yet infused with metropolitan dynamism.
Printed leggings, which are iconic staples of the brand’s heritage, were matched with color-blocked sweaters, and a pair of satin five-pocket pants was worn with a diagonally striped tweed peacoat trimmed with fringes.
An impeccable sartorial Prince of Wales suit was showed in a charming pink tone and a pajama set was crafted from plush velvet.
New patterns were introduced, including a bold floral motif, as well as a Pop print, which paid a tribute to Andy Warhol’s muse Edie Sedgwick. This was splashed on a jersey column dress and was re-created with sequins on a covetable short tunic frock.
From a chubby marabou coat with a contrasting wool collar to a printed satin denim-inspired truck jacket and a maxi black dress embellished on the back with a printed maxi

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Roksanda Pre-Fall 2018

Roksanda Ilincic said she wanted her woman to feel sheltered, protected and confident, which is why there was a softness — and strength — to this charming collection.
“We are all living in an uncertain times, when things we thought wouldn’t happen are happening,” Ilincic said. “It is really important to give my woman that extra confidence. She is strong and dressing for herself. She is interested in many different aspects of culture, and I think that curiosity is very important.”
She injected abstract embellishments here and there, including swirls of embroidered arty scribbles for a tea-length dress or raw threads and knots on shirts to symbolize craftsmanship.
Cocooning coats came in navy, green or khaki, with some featuring a sporty ribbed jersey back panel or a ruffle trim.
In a nod to classic men’s wear, there was a pinstripe pattern on soft, silky blouses and on long dresses with the designer’s signature bell sleeve.
Her more embellished pieces included long organza dresses with hand-cut and hand-sewn three-dimensional flowers, which added texture and movement.
Separates included voluminous trousers, and short, billowy blouses.
Colors were meant to transmit a sense of calm and happiness and included nougat, porcelain, bordeaux, acid green, lavender, sapphire and scarlet.

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Emporio Armani Pre-Fall 2018

Sporty accents injected a dynamic vibe into the Emporio Armani pre-fall collection.
The brand developed a versatile city wardrobe featuring the label’s signature combination of masculine and feminine details.
Effortless chic suits, including one in a wool fabric with a denim-like appearance, were cut with elongated blazers and generous pleated pants. More fitted and cropped jackets were worked in multicolor jacquards inspired by digital graphic art, while the Emporio Armani eagle logo was splashed on a casual quilted bomber matched with dark indigo boyfriend jeans.
An athletic feel was injected in a pair of boxing-inspired shorts worn with a jersey parka. A casual padded hooded jacket paired with matching wide-leg pants was crafted from a printed shiny fabric with a vinyl effect.
Quintessential feminine looks included a sequined mini frock with a polka dot tulle insert and a silk dress with an inlaid belt exuding Eighties’ sensuality.

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Giorgio Armani Pre-Fall 2018

“Seductive sobriety” was the expression which Giorgio Armani used to describe his pre-fall collection.
In a way, this season, Armani, who was born outside Milan in Piacenza, went back to his roots and he recalled that thick fog which used to surround the city during the long winters of his youth.
The designer translated his memories into the collection through the use of soft tones and plush fabrics wrapping the body with warm coziness.
Different tones of gray defined a range of pieces, including a little jacket worked in an Art Deco-inspired chevron motif and embellished with printed leather lapels punctuated by hand-painted maxi buttons. A lighter gray hue gave a chic attitude to a collarless coat worn over silk Bermuda pants and a chevron top, while gray was combined with pink, white and black on a leather blazer splashed with an abstract interpretation of a floral pattern.
Flowers, recalling Henri Matisse’s paintings, also peppered a silk romper trimmed with Kidassia fur, which was layered under a maxi Mongolian fur coat.
A more sporty and casual attitude informed another group of pieces, such as a graphic chevron bomber showing an asymmetric zipper, a jersey sweatshirt embroidered with the Giorgio Armani logo, as well as an oversize

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Dundas Pre-Fall 2018

“Happy clothes for happy times.” That’s how Peter Dundas described his “Dundas 2” collection, the second effort under his new namesake label, developed in partnership with his boyfriend Evangelo Bousis.
Unveiled during the pre-fall season, the collection is actually a seasonless wardrobe specifically designed to meet the glamorous and nomadic lifestyle of the crew of beautiful and fun “Peter’s Girls,” including Bianca Brandolini, Georgia May Jagger, Giovanna Battaglia and Poppy Delevingne. “They actually tried some of the clothes while they were still being made and they gave me smart suggestions,” said the designer, who highlighted that most of the pieces are easy to pack and they can be worn for a wide range of occasions.
The lineup, which Dundas developed to be more affordable than the Dundas 1 collection presented during the latest Paris Haute Couture fashion week, was a celebration of the designer’s signature aesthetic.
There were impeccably tailored suits, shown in embroidered velvet, sequined zebra patterns but also in off-white, and his iconic sensual dresses, such as the languid gowns featuring seductive Ziggy Stardust-inspired lighting bolts details running down the side.
Cherries were printed on silk fil coupé fluid frocks, and flowers blossomed on a cotton sun dress. Dundas’ beloved Bohemian feel ran

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Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Pre-Fall 2018

Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi are taking it easy for fall, with a lineup of loose, draped, smocked and off-the-shoulder dresses that were all about comfort — and grace. “She’s grown up, and she loves luxury — but she probably still dances to The Jesus and Mary Chain,” said the designers.
This feminine collection had a deliciously dark edge to it, too. Flowing, silk dresses came with pussy bows, single ruffles and uneven hemlines, although prints tended toward the sinister — snakeskin and flowers, or olive and black camou. Other dresses had black lace insets or bits of devoré velvet.
For evening, there were sequins galore, as in one slinky red dress or a sparkling camou one, or a silver off-the-shoulder number. For more subtle types there were ribbed knit dresses with working buttons running down the arms, while other dresses were done in crinkly sweeps of silk that had a sleeve flopping seductively off one shoulder.
The designers added a punk edge in the form of long plaid skirts with uneven hems, roughly patchworked knits in argyle and tartan and a fun, fat lumberjack check for a sweeping silk dress.

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Natasha Zinko Pre-Fall 2018

Natasha Zinko has brought back the high-shine, high-energy mood of the Eighties with her latest outing — a dynamic, upbeat lineup filled with bright colors, textures and plenty of attitude.
Inspired by Ali MacGraw in “Love Story,” and by the glamour and freedom that followed in the next decade, Zinko’s muse of the season was a woman in love, strong and confident.
She wore loosely tailored suits that came in lavender or camel, shiny nylon tracksuits or bright printed dresses that recalled “Dynasty,” Joan Collins and “The Yuppie Handbook.”
Zinko maintained a sense of romance and nostalgia throughout the collection with feminine floral midi dresses and the words “fallen in love” printed all over denim, blouses and dresses in Russian script.
At the same time, the androgyny that the designer has come to be known for was also prevalent, as in paillette dresses layered under boyish oversized parkas, delicately ruffled leather corsets paired with wide-leg cargo pants and large pockets on cool, low-rise denim.
Outerwear played a key role too, with a lamé check bomber and a layered shearling and denim jacket among the standouts.

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Emilia Wickstead Pre-Fall 2018

Emilia Wickstead immersed herself into the world of Edith Bouvier Beale, known as Little Edie, producing a collection that was as elegant, vibrant and multifaceted as the American socialite and model herself.
Wickstead drew inspiration from every facet of Edie’s life, from the playful outfits of her aristocratic youth and the bright colors and patterns of her house to the more somber choices of her later years when she lost much of her wealth and was unsuccessful in her dream of becoming an actress.
There were bright floral minidresses and splashes of snake print reminiscent of the model’s high times, as well as more grown-up cotton shirts, check twinsets and embellished midi dresses as the designer aimed at bringing together “the old and the new, the decrepit and the fresh.”
Dresses continue to be the strongest components of Wickstead’s collection, and this season she updated her best-selling midi styles in bold reds or elegant jade greens inspired by imagery of Little Edie’s house.
As she establishes her signatures, Wickstead has also been looking to develop the line’s separates and to offer her customer a full wardrobe.
In line with the label’s romantic, feminine aesthetic, separates took the form of elegant printed blouses, midi skirts and

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No. 21 Pre-Fall 2018

“This time it was more about conveying an attitude rather than focusing on the single pieces,” said Alessandro Dell’Acqua, revealing the process behind the creation of his No. 21 pre-fall collection.
The designer this season delivered looks with an intense, empowered femininity, always sensual yet dynamic.
Dell’Acqua mixed and matched his signature codes — including the charming balance between masculine and feminine elements, as well as the sense of lightness injected in his pieces and the innocent seduction always defining his lineups — in a beautiful, appealing collection.
There was something of the Fifties and Sixties in the body-conscious dresses unconventionally crafted from outerwear nylon and the high-waisted pencil skirts matched with boxy bowling shirts, including one completely covered with sparkling sequins.
The retro feel was enhanced by the images of Californian diners and motels printed on skirts, re-created on jacquard knitted pieces and popping up on the labels of dark indigo denim pants.
In a contrast between different forces, masculine utility zippered shirts were trimmed with micro crystals and sweatshirts were elevated with fringes.
With its street-ready appeal, this collection perfectly reflected Dell’Acqua’s signature approach to fashion, definitely creative and personal yet smart and commercially savvy.

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Pringle of Scotland Pre-Fall 2018

Fran Stringer is sharpening her focus at Pringle of Scotland, staying true to the label’s heritage and to what it does best: knitwear. Stringer said she wanted to offer a modern take on the idea of colorful winter dressing and her bright, upbeat lineup was filled with loose, chunky knits in a palette of sorbet shades such as lavender, turquoise and heather.
Stringer said she was inspired by the richness of the pastel colors found in French Cubist artist Francois Villon’s work and by archival brand imagery from the Seventies and Eighties, which led to an array of cool, chunky-knit dresses, loose ponchos and cardigans layered over each other. A charming lilac twinset — a standout in the collection — featured a knitted A–line skirt and cardigan in the same shade. “It’s our interpretation of the modern twinset,” said the designer.
Outerwear played a key role with plenty of loosely tailored wrap coats and ponchos done in wool or seam-sealed cotton gabardine.
As she continues to develop her handwriting, Stringer also felt more confident to revisit the brand’s signature argyle pattern, which she previously treated with caution in order to avoid associations with golfing. Argyle patterns were patched onto cardigans, dialed up and hand-knitted

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Natasha Zinko Pre-Fall 2018

Natasha Zinko has brought back the high-shine, high-energy mood of the Eighties with her latest outing — a dynamic, upbeat lineup filled with bright colors, textures and plenty of attitude.
Inspired by Ali MacGraw in “Love Story,” and by the glamour and freedom that followed in the next decade, Zinko’s muse of the season was a woman in love, strong and confident.
She wore loosely tailored suits that came in lavender or camel, shiny nylon tracksuits or bright printed dresses that recalled “Dynasty,” Joan Collins and “The Yuppie Handbook.”
Zinko maintained a sense of romance and nostalgia throughout the collection with feminine floral midi dresses and the words “fallen in love” printed all over denim, blouses and dresses in Russian script.
At the same time, the androgyny that the designer has come to be known for was also prevalent, as in paillette dresses layered under boyish oversized parkas, delicately ruffled leather corsets paired with wide-leg cargo pants and large pockets on cool, low-rise denim.
Outerwear played a key role too, with a lamé check bomber and a layered shearling and denim jacket among the standouts.

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Golden Goose Deluxe Brand Pre-Fall 2018

Founded in 2000, Italy’s Golden Goose Deluxe Brand has more recently been growing within the U.S. For pre-fall 2018, the brand designed a ready-to-wear and shoe collection around a fictitious woman who fantasized about stories of her grandfather, should she have ever met him. Notes from the designers claimed the collection, “is an ode to real imagination and imagined realities.” Vintage references ran throughout; there was Forties-inspired suiting, like a lilac set or striped trouser, along with multiple trenchcoats with full gun flap and box pleats. Men’s wear references and the reemergence of the brand’s original cowboy boots were also strong throughout. A mismatch of graphics — celestial, collegiate, tropical scenes, logos and floral prints — could have been pared down to make the whole idea more concise.

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Warm Pre-Fall 2018

While thinking about Warm’s pre-fall collection, Winnie Beattie realized that, at that time of year — summer — thinking about what to wear is the last thing she wants to do. Therein was the thesis of the collection. “There’s no big inspiration,” Beattie said. “In June, July and August, I’m chilling out, relaxing, trying to find things I can wear then and carry into fall.” That meant lots of printed dresses in relaxed, comfortable proportions that are easily filed under the “bohemian” catchall, though Beattie and her partner Tracy Feith continue to elevate their fabrics, silhouettes and finishings above the average beach dress. For example, long silk jacquard dresses with kimono sleeves and fringed belts had the attitude and luxurious hand of a vintage Asian silk robe. “You can toss it on and your only decision is your accessories,” Beattie said. There were printed cotton voile dresses and tops cropped perfectly to pair with high-waisted pants. Within that silhouette was something that felt quite new and fresh for Warm: a button-down cotton shirt, cropped and tied for you, in a black and gold floral print that, when worn with high-waisted white pants, took on a summery vintage Versace flair.

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Jill Stuart Pre-Fall 2018

Due to demand from her buyers and showroom, Jill Stuart decided to debut her pre-fall collection for 2018. For her, it felt like a breath of fresh air to design for the in-between. “I was inspired by boyish tailoring, using classic men’s wear fabrics and making them more feminine by mixing in the bold, floral prints,” Stuart explained. From a red, black and cream check pant and matching blazer to a dark check blazer paired with blue tonal floral jacquard dress with ruffles, the overall look was great. Stuart also incorporated a few new dresses to the lineup: one with bold florals held a looser shape with shoulders off to the side and pouffed, while another in a creamy check had loose ties that could be worn around the neck to mimic a handkerchief. Heavier coats and leather offerings also nicely offset the feminine prints and ruffle details.

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Grey Jason Wu Pre-Fall 2018

During a preview of the Grey Jason Wu pre-fall collection, Wu made clear the difference between his two lines: “Grey is the casual, off-duty weekend version of Jason Wu, which is always much dressier.” Grey’s prices are lower and there’s a more relaxed ease than the main line, but inter-brand synergy is clear and Grey packs a lot of look for the contemporary positioning. Wu let a mannish, Hepburn attitude influence wide-leg trousers, striped shirting in a nice dense yet soft twill and tailored blazers and a great convertible trench that could be zipped off into a cropped jacket. Slipdresses — a main line staple — came in plain but chic silhouettes in wrinkle-free jersey, and more elaborately cut dresses were done in printed dévoré. There were plenty of knits, T-shirts and stylish sweats to keep essential wardrobe components covered.

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Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Pre-Fall 2018

Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi are taking it easy for fall, with a lineup of loose, draped, smocked and off-the-shoulder dresses that were all about comfort — and grace. “She’s grown up, and she loves luxury — but she probably still dances to The Jesus and Mary Chain,” said the designers.
This feminine collection had a deliciously dark edge to it, too. Flowing, silk dresses came with pussy bows, single ruffles and uneven hemlines, although prints tended toward the sinister — snakeskin and flowers, or olive and black camou. Other dresses had black lace insets or bits of devoré velvet.
For evening, there were sequins galore, as in one slinky red dress or a sparkling camou one, or a silver off-the-shoulder number. For more subtle types there were ribbed knit dresses with working buttons running down the arms, while other dresses were done in crinkly sweeps of silk that had a sleeve flopping seductively off one shoulder.
The designers added a punk edge in the form of long plaid skirts with uneven hems, roughly patchworked knits in argyle and tartan and a fun, fat lumberjack check for a sweeping silk dress.

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Rag & Bone Pre-Fall 2018

With new merchandise across categories dropping every month, designer Marcus Wainwright is focusing on perfecting the Rag & Bone icons. For pre-fall in women’s, “men’s wear for women” was key, like an Army green skirt with a zipper down the front or military-inspired jacket. Easygoing dresses with buttons running down the sides — offered in light purple or black-and-white houndstooth — added a more feminine touch to the looks. Denim was also strong in the collection, a standout being a long workwear robe.
The men’s wear was also a compilation of the brand’s greatest hits. T-shirts, chinos, tracksuits, jeans and outerwear with military and workwear influences were all tweaked for the season. Among the highlights was a waxed cotton field jacket, a coach’s jacket in a black-and-white gingham pattern, a color-blocked hoodie, and a patchwork oxford shirt that Wainwright said was a personal favorite. “I had one when I was 15 so I had to do it,” he said.
He said the brand’s mission is to “double down” on what it believes to be the “perfect” chinos, jeans, shirts, etc. “That’s at the core of what we do,” Wainwright said. For pre-fall, a new twill chino has entered the mix, and features a

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Christian Siriano Pre-Fall 2018

Christian Siriano’s mom played muse for the season, providing old scrapbook photos of herself in various Seventies fashion for her son to mine. One in particular stood out, where she’s wearing a leather jacket and jeans. It inspired a great capsule of supple leather and denim separates, the latter of which was a first for the designer. In true Siriano fashion, these were more refined and beautiful than your standard five-pocket jeans. A cropped denim moto style with oversize collar was a standout, trimmed with contrast stitching and an elongated belt. Hefty wide-leg leather pants also toed the line between casual and cocktail, easily imagined with a simple tank or formal blouse.
The dive into Seventies photographs led to Bianca and Mick Jagger, as well, an idea of retro glam but modern and chic. Elements of their style were seen in striped suiting, softly tailored blazers with silk ties, and sequined evening numbers. A gown with simple cami bodice and full metallic tulle skirt hand-embellished with painted glitter pieces was a knockout. It’s already received numerous requests for the upcoming awards season. Any of the pristine, elegant black and white gowns could be just as popular. If the range seemed a

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Max Mara Pre-Fall 2018

Max Mara’s pre-fall collection was an example of why fans of the house return to it — a meditation on one of its classic, impeccably tailored cashmere coats, specifically the 101801. Guided loosely by the Japanese design principles of modernity and tradition — Yasuhiro Ishimoto’s photographs of the Katsura Imperial Villa were a reference — the design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved 101801 into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat. Monochromatic looks — shown in navy, camel and ivory — were built out of spare crepe dresses and jumpsuits with elegant, utilitarian lines, cashmere tailored separates, and romantic yet citified maxis decorated with vertical ruffles. The brand’s classic monogram, revived on the spring runway, was used with subtlety on tonal prints. Styled with beanies, gloves, ankle socks and flat oxfords, the look was serious chic. The lineup offered much in the way of timeless wardrobe staples, and the coats in particular will never go out of style. Buy one and wear it forever, but you’ll always want more.

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Sportmax Pre-Fall 2018

An energetic vibe was injected into Sportmax’s pre-fall collection, which was inspired by the world of sports. High-tech materials and details were incorporated into the pieces, which exuded a sense of urban dynamism.
Comfortable ease was infused in a maxi cashmere cape embellished with nylon inserts, which was layered over a lightweight technical parka, while feminine jersey dresses featured ergonomic stitching and contrasting panels inspired by surf wet suits.
Roomy sweatshirts revealed nylon inserts and chunky zippers, and knitted sweaters showed deconstructed silhouettes.
Wide-leg pants and oversize jackets punctuated by contrasting stitches were crafted from dark indigo denim. For a more eye-catching look, jacquard dresses were covered with transparent sequins for a shiny effect.

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Prabal Gurung Pre-Fall 2018

Prabal Gurung has been traveling a lot lately. He’s gone from charismatic places like Tokyo and Nepal, to more understated ones like Abu Dhabi and the South of France. In terms of fashion sensibility, he’s noticed an opposing spectrum of glamour and minimalism in those respective regions. He aimed to marry those concepts in a feat of comfortable luxury for pre-fall, punctuated with a practical element of transition.
“What I realized with this collection is what I wanted to do was this idea of armored elegance,” Gurung said during a presentation at Cadillac House. That meant balancing easy-to-wear silhouettes with evening appropriateness, and challenging heavy fabrics to be lighter and seasonless. The cozy tonal sweaters made in Nepal were the perfect example, easily styled over one another or sequin pants and slit skirts for casual takes on cocktail dressing. Regarding sequins, there were plenty — from a sexy red holiday number with a deep V and high slit to a strapless black gown toned down with languid trousers. “I just love this idea of sportswear with a glamorous touch to it,” Gurung continued.
The overall tone was indeed effortless, gentle confidence, and applied equally to feminine options for day. Highlights included the

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Brooks Brothers Pre-Fall 2018

Milton Avery, the Chrysler Building and a spicy autumnal palette were key influences in Zac Posen’s pre-fall collection for Brooks Brothers, but more than anything, the focus was on the brand’s classic career woman, who is very much well-suited. To that end, Posen worked up traditional navy pattern suits with banker blue shirts as well as more fashion red crepe suits. As an office-appropriate alternative, the classic navy pinstripe was reimagined in a soft crepe jacket-dress. On the more casual front, there were shirtdresses, foulard cardigans and blouses, a B-printed jersey wrap dress and a fresh portrait collar shirt in a micro hounds tooth print. Everything was polished and professional for the woman who likes to be well within the corporate dress code.

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Raquel Allegra Pre-Fall 2018

“The collection is like a palette cleanser,” said Raquel Allegra of her pre-fall offering. “We went a little crazy with the colors for spring, so this is us putting our feet back on the ground.” Allegra took literal inspiration from the world around her — earth, air and water — with a color palette of sky and ocean blue, sunset, khaki earth tones and black-and-white marble. The dip-dye placement was meant to echo a geographical map, with blue meeting black giving the effect of sea meeting land as seen from above.
She took her classic shapes — the tunic, the trenchcoat, the oversize sweater and mixed in some new silhouettes such as a puffed-sleeve peasant top and mini circle skirt or a ruched pencil skirt with a slit up the front. Neck scarves and wraps were also new for this season. Every piece had touches of her signature deconstruction, from the gently frayed shoulders on a sleeveless silk top or the storm flap on a linen trench, to the open threadwork on her sweaters. A slouchy linen blazer was worn inside-out to show the garment dye’s effect on the pin-striped lining and inside panels. Allegra also added some new materials to

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Sachin & Babi Pre-Fall 2018

It’s an art navigating fashion’s shifting retail landscape. Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia are strategically focused on wholesale partners with good sell-through, their own bustling e-commerce and bringing international sales in-house. Streamlining their distribution channels makes it easier to align brand objectives, one of which is highlighting the female form with beautifully crafted pieces at an affordable price.
It’s easy to imagine the brand as exclusively evening; the designers love texture, flounce, embellishments and enjoy a good celebrity placement. The Seventies glam rock inspiration for the season generated some serious red carpet contenders — the silver sequin dress with ruffle sleeves and graphic grosgrain number with sequin skirt had major youth appeal. A bursting hot pink gown with sequin cuff accents was also a showstopper. Topped with any of the statement earrings Babi first designed for her own outfits, the result is sleek, easy refinement.
But their clothes have a transportive quality of day-to-evening as well. A great capsule of fine knit dresses maintained the perfect balance of polish and flirt, with little flounces on skirt hems, bows on the bust, or athletic stripe details. They also work for a range of body types. The lightweight lurex dresses and sportswear separates attest to

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Lorod Pre-Fall 2018

Lorod’s Lauren Rodriguez and Michael Freels have made American workwear a key focus of their design aesthetic. They also produce in the Garment District and source materials like newly introduced leathers from established American companies. They update iconic silhouettes with a gender-ambiguous eye, zeroing in on elements of utility. Men enjoy their designs; many references are culled from traditional men’s wear tailoring, after all.
The pre-season-only model they’ve employed has worked in their favor, allowing their rather seasonless designs to sit on sales floors longer. For a young brand, presence is vital. So, too, is clear direction. They’re in a steady growth phase and are smart about organic developments, elevation and refinement.
Their latest collection drew from the American West, glossed with a Fifties rockabilly sensibility and referencing cowboys and prairie fashion. If it sounds old-fashioned, it wasn’t. In the duo’s hands, the result was clean, polished, modern design. There were Western yoke shirts paired with tonal skirts, leather and suede patchwork skirts and even a landscape image of New Mexico on jacquard knits.
The rest wasn’t so literal, centered around the power of minimalism. The beige trench was a crowd favorite and the leather jackets provided some dramatic angularity. Tonal wool suiting

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Rosetta Getty Pre-Fall 2018 Review

Walking into Rosetta Getty’s downtown space, the tone for pre-fall 2018 was instantly set by a calming room with moss mounds and chair installations, by artist Thomas Barger, and racks filled with earth-toned and powder blue hues. Getty looked to the Hammer Museum’s exhibition “Radical Women: Latin American Art 1960-1985” — specifically to the works of Lygia Pape, Ana Mendieta and Leticia Parente — to inform her latest collection. “There were a lot of Latin women artists at that time, they were really activists…incredibly fierce,” Getty said of the artists. Interpretations came in the form of prints, like a beautiful silk jacquard dress with a baby’s breath print and split-neck ties, offered in black or melon, that was pulled from Mendieta’s works.
“I try to look at it as more of a collectible wardrobe, the silhouettes and finishes and the way it’s designed is to go with the things you already have,” Getty said of the collection and her overall brand aesthetic. By creating a more seasonless collection, Getty has been building her customers’ wardrobes. This time she added supple nappa leather trimmings, three new footwear shapes and autumnal fabrications. There was a great floral jacquard dress that could be tied

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3.1 Phillip Lim Pre-Fall 2018

What do sailors, gypsies and swanky disco divas have in common? Maybe nothing besides Phillip Lim’s pre-fall collection. He deliberately culled from wildly disparate elements for an experimental mash-up that worked out well for all style nomads involved, primarily the customer. The intensely layered pilings, for example, a techno wharf jacket over a sweet sailor sweater, poplin shirt and chic natty mushroom pleated slipdress were meant to evoke texture, nostalgia and human touch. “Fashion and technology operate at the speed of light today,” Lim said. “This is kind of my way of slowing things down so you can actually feel things.”
Among the mix were sailor pants, smocked gingham taffeta dresses and slinky slips made of silver chainmail and spongy mushroom pleats. Lim chose many of his references for their humble, folkloric roots, but he brought everything up to date with modernist techno-touched fabrications. The taffeta was paper-thin and light as air; the pleating felt hand-done but not too delicate, and some of the tailored fisherman’s jackets were coated and water-resistant. Styled to the outlandish nomadic nines, it served up a major fashion statement, yet the showroom racks were filled with pieces for the chic, grounded civilian.

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Temperley London Pre-Fall 2018

Alice Temperley referenced a myriad of influences — such as 20th-century female explorers, nature, archeology and Peter Beard’s travel journals — for pre-fall. The Temperley woman was a dynamic, wandering traveler who was on a journey and spent her days exploring.
Temperley juxtaposed feminine aspects of the range with more masculine shapes, which added a cool edge to her relaxed and contemporary lineup of daywear, tailoring and eveningwear.
She incorporated cotton drill men’swear tailoring, oversized silhouettes and cinched-in waists against soft chiffon fabrics and florals. There was a jumpsuit that featured a bold graphic embroidery influenced by Tibetan Tiger rugs. A tailored khaki suit was belted at the waist. The jacket, which came a bit oversized, was paired with wide-leg cropped trousers.
For eveningwear, she concentrated on spines and nature as embellishments. She employed sequins and mirrored Perspex, which were hand-cut. She looked at the spines of leaves, animal prints and fossils and devised geometric patterns, which were hand-sewn as accents on floor-sweeping gowns and jumpsuits.
The designer worked in a palette filled with camel, green, khaki, dark olive, pecan, saffron, savannah, scarlet, turmeric and vermilion.

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Tomas Maier Pre-Fall 2018

Tomas Maier is a designer with practicality in the forefront of his mind. What do his customers desire when pre-fall actually hits stores? From Maier’s observation that “the customer does not buy much ahead of time anymore,” he created two separate drops for pre-fall 2018.
The first, which will hit stores mid-May/June included summer hits. There was fun swimwear, cotton beach-appropriate gingham, airy cotton pleated dresses and lightweight outerwear, such as a nylon Windbreaker that could be worn in the reverse lamé side for a hint of glam. His strongest assortment from drop one resulted in two lightweight denim dresses with industrial pull belts and straps.
Maier proclaimed his second drop to be “a bit more of a boarding school girl…good girl versus bad girl.” There were great fall textures throughout. A check kilt with the same industrial pull belts and chunky sweaters for the “good girl” while “bad girl” included chic denim set of high-waisted pant and tailored jacket cow-printed mohair collar as well as a mesh skirt. Maier’s outerwear proved strong as well and rounded out final drop of a collection that was sensibly planned around Maier’s customers timely desires.

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Missoni Pre-Fall 2018

The effortless attitude of New York’s women and their eclectic look served as inspiration for the Missoni pre-fall collection.
Marking a move from its signature patterns, including the zig-zag, the brand embraced a new attitude and explored different solutions to refresh its image.
The result was definitely appealing. The Missoni graphic logo pop up on several pieces, infused with a cool street mood. For example, it appeared as a contrasting intarsia on the back of a covetable shearling bomber, while it served as starting point to create a geometric pattern embossed on tight leather pants. The logo also gave a playful twist to knitwear, including comfortable joggers matched with a luxurious shearling and mink fur striped jacket.
Mannish influences, especially evident in the range of oversized coats and impeccable suits, were juxtaposed to a free-spirited folk feel. This resonated in the range of patchwork silk dresses showing a combination of different floral patterns and enriched by a cascade of printed fringes, as well as in the crochet maxi cardigans and outerwear styles exuding artisanal craftsmanship.
Despite the array of vibes and references, the lineup seemed coherent and marked an interesting step for the evolution of the fashion house, which is gearing up to celebrate

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Red Valentino Pre-Fall 2018

Pierpaolo Piccioli might have started designing pre-fall before the current #MeToo movement gained force, but his starting point couldn’t be more timely. He looked to the suffrage movement and female visionaries for inspiration — namely naturalist Maria Sibylla Merian, botanist Mary Delany and British political activist Emmeline Pankhurst, who once said, “I know that women, once convinced that they are doing what is right, that their rebellion is just, will go on, no matter what the difficulties, no matter what the dangers, so long as there is a woman alive to hold up the flag of rebellion.” The notion of finding one’s voice and speaking up for what is right certainly parallels the present social landscape.
But how do empowerment and fashion coexist? The answer here: with subtlety and softness. References to suffragette dress were light, seen in the high-neck blouses and dresses made modern with point d’esprit. Or checkered outerwear that maintained a sense of authority. When paired together, they opened the age spectrum and appeal to a more mature clientele. Elsewhere, illustrations in Merian and Delany’s work made for feminine folkloric botanic prints with hints of novelty on flirty dresses. That playful thread transitioned into the styling, as well, with

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Maggie Marilyn Pre-Fall 2018

“Every collection is a springboard for the next,” stated Maggie “Marilyn” Hewitt during a morning walk-through of her pre-fall 2018 and fall 2018 collections. Upon walking into the room, this feeling is apparent in Hewitt’s pre-fall assortment through identifiable brand colors: lively reds, pinks and greens that transition to subdued and neutralized hues for fall. The feeling floats throughout both collections à la athletic details, flowy silk dresses and tailored separates with feminine twists.
For both collections, Hewitt played with textures. There was a great gingham trenchcoat with “grandpa plaid” panels as well as a smocked long-sleeve button-down for pre-fall, while fall’s standout included a playful tartan tennis-skirt-trouser-hybrid pant paired with a one-shouldered crisp white top. There was plenty of updated Maggie Marilyn staples: athletic hoodies and bombers with organza ruffles, modern blazers with sleeves that could be worn down or cinched up, flowy silk tops and striped day dresses. The overall theme of the collections could be summed into Hewitt’s catchword of the season: easy. In her case, this meant creating superchic yet relaxed throw-on wear, whenever or wherever clothes that walk the line between masculine and feminine. “I think that’s the always the thing for me, the fine

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Dsquared2 Pre-Fall 2018

Whether she is a fly girl from the Bronx, N.Y., or a disco queen from Manhattan, the Dsquared2 woman of the season is utterly cool.
For pre-fall, Dean and Dan Caten managed to deliver what they do best — charming clothes infused with luxury, polished glamour and a high dose of fun.
The precise and sharp silhouettes defining Dsquared2’s signature tailoring-oriented aesthetic was perfectly balanced by the introduction of metallic fabrics, striped and camouflage patterns, as well as pops of vibrant colors.
The collection was built as the rich wardrobe of a trendy urban girl. She hits the city’s streets with light wool track pants embellished with a logo band and matched with a coordinated bomber. She picks up the kids at school in a pair of distressed jeans, paired with a striped sweater and a covetable classic shearling coat. But when the sun goes down, she pours into a dramatic black gown with a sexy plunging V-neck or pairs a tuxedolike skirt suit with an open back wrap top and over-the-knee heeled boots.
She can be a playful tomboy, a chic uptown girl and a party girl — in any case, someone you’ll surely want to call your friend.

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Just Cavalli Pre-Fall 2018

Urban safari was the mood at Just Cavalli. The brand’s glamorous attitude was tempered by both metropolitan and tribal accents, which gave a fresh appeal to the lineup. A variety of wild animal patterns was combined on a breezy silk tunic matched with flared pants, while African motifs peppered the jacquard knits, including a V-neck Lurex sweater paired with a silk blouse and pleated culottes. A range of Eighties disco-inspired pieces, such as cargo pants and a draped, asymmetric minidress worn under an embroidered utility parka, were more flamboyant and eye-catching. Leather jackets treated with artisanal techniques to obtain textures inspired by scarification as well as embroidered jumpsuits and maxidresses enriched with studs and beads completed the collection with a touch of luxurious opulence.
 

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Etro Pre-Fall 2018

Etro re-created an Eastern wonderland for pre-fall. The brand’s signature luxury nomadic spirit was given added charm via Far East iconography, echoed in the collection’s mix of graphics and patterns.
Tapestries, chinosoiries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large inspired both the floral and graphic prints and the jacquard motifs. Kimono-like robe coats came in opulent brocades trimmed with mink fur, while asymmetric draped dresses were realized in lightweight textured silk.
The decorative attitude of the lineup, enhanced by the rich color palette, was balanced by sophisticated city staples injected with a subtle Seventies vibe. These included an orange peacoat worn with denim pants featuring a beaded side decor, as well as a pajama set in a joyful and colorful floral print matched with a printed sports bra, which introduced a touch of contemporary athleticism.

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Bottega Veneta Pre-Fall 2018

They say timing is everything and one is inclined to guess that Tomas Maier would agree. He operates on a schedule — the calendar is often the first thing he references during previews of his collections, whether for Bottega Veneta or his own line. At a walk-through of the former’s pre-fall lineup, Maier divvied the clothes up into three deliveries — May, June and July — almost designing three micro-themes within one collection, each based on what he thinks women would want at that exact time of year.
The first part was the next step from his spring collection — light, soft, unadorned derivations of some of the silhouettes shown on the runway. Light pink dresses in airy, washed silk were suited to summer’s early days. Then, for June, “What do I need?” asked Maier. “It’s probably a wedding, a christening. Events come up.” Special occasions warranted special details, such as an easy, robe-like printed cotton coat over a multicolored bronze, blue and white paillette dress in a simple, sporty silhouette. When it finally gets closer to real fall, Maier wanted to tease the season with sophisticated back-to-school/back-to-work shapes, such as graphic plaid skirts, leather jackets and ultralight knit polos with

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Escada RTW Pre-Fall 2018

Newly appointed global design director Niall Sloan started in August, though his first imprint on the label won’t be until the fall 2018 collection. In the interim, a design team worked on both mainline and Sport with the goal of taking classic Escada prints and reinterpreting them in new silhouettes. The effect was a less structured, more lightweight offering for the boardroom to dinner. Florals atop florals were an easy path to more youthful dressing, and could pack easily into itself, like a wrinkle-free coatdress that folded into an envelope pouch.
The inspiration was twofold — Peter Lindbergh’s recent photo exhibition in Germany and iznik pottery from Turkey — resulting in a mix of classic men’s wear-inspired suiting with bold prints in red, blue and turquoise. The items that toed the balance best were subtle, as in cardigans and sweatshirts with hand-beaded petals that never felt overdone. There were in fact quite a few embellished looks, from a flirty blue dress that would suit any young starlet to an evening gown that took over 300 hours to hand-bead; though a great deal of work was applied to these, they maintained an unstructured ease. Perhaps that’s the reason customers keep coming back

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Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2017

Creative director Sarah Burton’s collection was all about female power, both creative and physical, with a collection inspired by the British artist and sculptor Barbara Hepworth and by medieval armor and heraldry.
There were eagle, griffin and mystical embroideries on long chiffon dresses, while others resembled tapestries and a silvery pleated one recalled shining armor. Many were accessorized with leather corset belts or long falconry gloves.
The Hepworth aesthetic came through in color and texture – which contrasted with the medieval flourish. The color palette took in gesso, stone and bone, the latter tone was best expressed through a long and dramatic leather topcoat.
One pleated dress had deep V-neck and a marble print, while another was done in cream devoré  velvet. Accessories included a necklace with a large stone at the center (inspired by the one Hepworth wore), flat booties and pebble-shaped clutch bags.

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Mary Katrantzou Pre-Fall 2017

The designer looked to playing cards — in all their colorful, patterned glory — for this collection filled with classic shapes meant for a range of climates, and a riot of swirls, hearts, leaves and florets.
There was a big focus on daywear, including a sweet jacquard minidress with chunky pearls dotted around the neckline. A Forties-style one with a pussy bow and ruching on the bodice had floral and leaf patterns while a loose printed shirt dress had a scarf hemline.
There were more languid dresses, too, made for poolside cocktails, including a long sleeveless jacquard one with swirling patterns, another with long sleeves and a curling leaf pattern done in red, white and navy. Other silk dresses were printed with abstract ladies’ hands — their nails painted red — holding a set of cards.
For cooler climes, Katrantzou designed tweedy dresses and jackets with flower-shaped buttons dotted down the front, and fox fur stoles in intense shades of royal blue or orangey-red.

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Roland Mouret Pre-Fall 2017

Roland Mouret, on a perpetual quest to fill the holes in his clients’ seasonal wardrobes, turned out a collection of bright and embellished — but still classic — shapes. Among the highlights was a long canary yellow dress done in fil coupé fabric with subtle harness details around the bodice, and a paisley tunic dress also made from fil coupé.
Bomber jackets were embroidered with abstract flowers, as were halter dresses, while crop tops had delicate fringing along the edges of the sleeve. Elsewhere there were draped, languid silhouettes, as in a silk open-back dress with fluid sleeves and a loose belted kimono jacket and trench, both examples of a new outerwear category for the designer.
Mouret is building his business with separates, too, which he said now account for 50 percent of sales. Hence the sculptural tops, knits and sleek double-face satin trousers dotted in between the more statement pieces.

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Opening Ceremony Pre-Fall 2017

Carol Lim and Humberto Leon aren’t ones to shy away from expressing their political and social beliefs. In recent memory, their shows and performances have focused on migration, grounded futurism and political pageants. Given what’s happening in the world today — in particular America’s current immigration ban — their latest collection, which was inspired by immigrant travel and the romantic ideology of beauty in diversity, was even more poignant. They created a melting pot, if you will, of fashion drawn from different cultures, representative of the America they believe in, with an aesthetic thread that balanced easy feminine flair and traditional menswear.
Beginning with their show in September 2016 — at a moment when the industry was experimenting with ideas of see-now-buy-now and questioned the need for an overhaul to the current fashion week model — Kim and Leon positioned Opening Ceremony in-season with an approach unlike their contemporaries; this “summer” collection, for example, generally an interchangeable term for “pre-fall,” will begin hitting stores as soon as March 15, whereas pre-fall delivers in May. It’s a methodical approach to truly satisfying what customers want and desire immediately.
For summer, the designers studied images of people who have entered America, from all different cultures, who wore clothes ranging from evocations of celebration to protection,

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Drome Pre-Fall 2017

Known for inventive outerwear, Marianna Rosati’s Italian leather label Drome really hits its stride in colder seasons. Her latest pre-fall lineup emphasized chic shearling, leather and wool statement coats, which were grouped into two disparate themes: military and ladylike. In the former, Rosati interpreted the nylon bomber jacket trend with a maximalist approach, decorating hers with buttery leather snap pockets and white shearling trim. Elsewhere, for something more feminine, Rosati’s sophisticated trenchcoats took on softer silhouettes in shades of burgundy, pink and ivory and were accessorized with contrast leather belts. A few curly shearling coats in bright neons — with exaggerated collars and cuffs — took on a funky Seventies feel. Ditto to the ruffled leather trousers, silk pussy-bow blouses and platform leather boots.

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Each x Other Pre-Fall 2017

Arty design collective Each x Other journeyed to Mexico for pre-fall, taking its urban consumer into territories where traditional motifs, tarot cards, Mayan symbols and contrasting prints all came into play.
Poems from in-house artist Robert Montgomery were translated into Spanish and posted on sweatshirts and jackets or embroidered onto the sleeves and collars of crisp poplin shirts. “La poesia es liberacion,” read one cropped sweatshirt, needing little translation.
The folk inspiration was interpreted literally on poncho-like knitwear; less so on designs like a black tailored suit with distressed brocade sleeves and lower legs with loose blue and red threads designed to be a reinterpretation of traditional serape fabric. There were also lots of colorful embroideries, on pale denim notably, a sprinkling of striped knitwear, and contrasting feline and polka-dot prints à la Frida Kahlo — of course. Ruffles and matador hats, meanwhile, added to the Latin feel, while leather biker jackets in bright colors with flared shapes were more citizens of the world.

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Chalayan Pre-Fall 2017

For pre-fall, Hussein Chalayan pondered the concept of the new individual and her needs.
“I was looking at the idea of how the Ancient Greeks were revived in the 19th century by Lord Byron,” said Chalayan, “and how the whole sense of personhood was redefined by northwestern Europeans. Then I looked at this idea of how the corporate world is shaping the way we present ourselves, and how Greek ideas have been reappropriated now.”
He sent a conceptual lineup of jackets, coats, dresses, trousers and blouses filled with Greek-inspired ideas that felt relaxed and luxurious for the modern working wardrobe.
Dresses and tailored shirting were interestingly constructed with frocks featuring scarves that can be worn as a scarf or draped. He developed sleeves into sashes, which playfully decorated a navy button-down shirt as the cotton material was draped and twisted diagonally across the bodice. The detail embellishment was also seen in a black-and-white button-down stretch cotton shirt, for which loose material was wound up around the waist and worn over a black wool skirt with the same wrap detail.
His Grecian take was translated into luxurious outerwear as seen in a waistcoat, which was tucked under a gray cashmere wool jacket.
Elsewhere, loose proportions drooped on generously

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Versus Versace Pre-Fall 2017

A realistic collection. Just as with her men’s fall collection, Donatella Versace’s goal for her pre-fall women’s lineup for Versus was to deliver real clothes, meaning clothes that can actually be worn in everyday life. To deliver that straightforward message, Versace looked back at the Versus brand of the Nineties. This was reflected in the range of sensual mini dresses embellished with safety pins, narrow pants with leather waistbands and shirtdresses with cut outs on the back. New, contemporary elements were introduced, such as the workwear influences seen in a wool coat with buttons engraved with lion heads, which was inspired by a utilitarian shirt. The athleisure trend took center stage with cotton fleece tracksuits with zippers and logo stripes running down the legs and arms, as well as with fitted jersey dresses embellished with metallic mesh, which was incorporated onto the fabric via techniques used in the activewear business.

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Erika Cavallini Pre-Fall 2017

Erika Cavallini looked to England for her pre-fall collection. The inspiration merged in the lineup’s warm, dark tones recalling the island’s countryside, and in several classic British fabrics. These included checked cloths in overalls, cinched at the waist with a thick leather belt and paired with a cotton shirt with ruffled sleeves. She introduced a utilitarian vibe via the functional applied pockets, softened by romantic frills, which punctuated a sweater and a skirt worked in woody tones. The main inspiration also echoed in a vintage tapestry pattern printed on silk, fluid dresses, while a dégradé effect was re-created on a crepe de chine off-the-shoulder frock. This feminine attitude contrasted with the rigor of Cavallini’s tailored suits. The collection offered plenty of options for women looking for a discreet eccentricity, never too exaggerated, but definitely very individual.

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Lorod Pre-Fall 2017

Newcomers Michael Freels and Lauren Rodriguez have an aesthetic of modern-day vintage tinged with men’s and streetwear elements. Their Lorod label balances editorial appeal and elevated ease with a pulse on gender-fluid design — reworked denim, updated Americana and underpinnings-as-rtw all make ample appearances in their first full collection. They showed a capsule for spring to gauge market response, and ultrahip stores like Opening Ceremony, Shop Super Street and Curve opted into it.
The collection is an extension of personal style and tailoring traditional men’s wear items to fit a woman’s body (Rodriguez is guilty of buying vintage boy’s clothes for herself). Updated workwear like carpenter pants got a literal twist in the seams to wrap around the legs, and was made with more refined fabrics like water-resistant lightweight canvas. Sexy knit henleys, quilted pieces referencing military garments and shorts inspired by men’s boxers straddled a gender-ambiguous line. Effortlessly cool, the line appeals to girls looking for no-fuss, relaxed chic dressing.
“The vibe of our clothes, to us, seems fairly straightforward because it’s what we’re inclined to make and look at, but to a lot of people there’s not much out there that’s like this,” Rodriguez said during a preview. Denim offerings

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Giambattista Valli Pre-Fall 2017

For pre-fall, Giambattista Valli aimed to dress his Valli girl as she transitions into a Valli woman, noting an amped-up daywear category and an emphasis on tailoring. “I wanted to give the collection a more grown-up attitude,” he said. “The other side of the Valli world is the very romantic side — the feminine, special-occasion side and there is a balance between the two. But I love to see our woman working. Whether she’s a lawyer or a journalist, she’s comfortable being a woman. Even the men’s tailoring still looks feminine.”
Valli’s double-breasted jackets and suiting — rendered in jacquard and paired with flared trousers — riffed on military styles with oversize gold buttons. One suit was covered in the GBV logo, a look Valli introduced for spring. “The logo still feels feminine, because it’s almost like a polka dot,” he said. Valli offered his girl a few chic tops to layer underneath, as in pussy-bow blouses and Victorian-inspired tops decorated with macramé lace appliqués. Prim silk maxidresses with bows and lilac floral prints kept the label’s signature romanticism alive, while a pair of leopard-printed striped mink coats embellished with rhinestones added a luxe, playful touch.

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A.L.C. Pre-Fall 2017

Andrea Lieberman’s pre-fall collection was all about seasonless dressing — specifically making clothes that could be appropriate all year long. “The pieces you want to buy in pre-fall are really year-round,” said Lieberman. With an eye toward soft and deep colors, such as peachy pink and deep green, she worked on easy, wardrobe staple shapes that had transitional value — slipdresses; bomber jackets; floral-printed dresses and the stretch ribbed knits meant to be layered onto looks. One of the things the lineup did well was keep the slipdress-layered-over-a-shirt look alive with pink dresses worn over white shirts and a black slip over a crisp white blouse.

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Pringle of Scotland Pre-Fall 2017

Thought Pringle of Scotland was known for its luxurious takes on classic Scottish knitwear? It is. But over the course of the brand’s 200-year history, it made a splash in arenas outside high-end fashion. “A lot of people you come across say, ‘I know it — it’s the golfing brand,’” said Pringle creative director Fran Stringer, noting that one of her priorities as she marks her first year at the brand is to better communicate the house’s modern identity, particularly in America, where it’s making a push beginning with pre-fall. (Pringle, famous for its twinsets and argyle on the links, no longer has a golf line.)
Stringer showed the collection in New York at the Mercer Hotel, hosting a small lunch for American editors to better acquaint them with her and her lineup. She very much focused on bringing the archive — rich with Fair Isles and paisleys, its original twinsets and argyle — into today’s world. She pushed cozy classics forward, reinterpreting the twinset as a cardigan and skirt or oversized poncho and skirt meant to be worn with trainers. Fair Isle sweaters became big statement pieces in subtle patchwork constructions, while the traditional argyle was shown on asymmetric cardigans.

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Tibi Pre-Fall 2017

The idea of a seasonless, “confident” wardrobe is what drives Amy Smilovic at Tibi. “It’s really for a working girl,” she explained. “I hate to say it’s based on anything, because each season we really base it on what we want to wear and what we’re feeling.”
Lucky for her customers, Smilovic’s feelings translated very well into a desirable and wearable collection. This season, she channeled the Eighties in a refined way. Drop-shoulder coats in heritage plaids, cropped T-shirts with removable shoulder pads, long-sleeve dresses that could transition flawlessly from work to play — one style in a great hammered silk blend leopard, as well as unexpected combinations of colors — are all elements of Tibi’s year-round concept.
“Everything is seasonless and it really is by accident,” she said. “We didn’t set out to create a lighter-weight collection or anything like that. I think that we’re just finding that we are very attracted to things that we can wear creatively  throughout the year and not have to change our whole wardrobe when the weather changes.”

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Reem Acra Pre-Fall 2017

Reem Acra has been spending a lot of time in Dubai, where she’s shooting “Fashion Star” for Dubai One TV, a “Project Runway”-like spinoff that features Acra as a judge and mentor to 12 aspiring designers. The city’s opulence might’ve influenced her latest pre-fall collection, which showcased a few evening looks alongside a growing ready-to-wear category, rendered with gold metallic lace and brocades, sparkling beaded embroideries and bright pops of color.
With 2017 marking the brand’s 20th anniversary, Acra is focused on broadening her base to encompass more than just bridal and red-carpet clients. She poured the same dose of glamour into her separates-heavy lineup, which juxtaposed the overtly sexy — a sculptural black leather bustier with a flirty peplum, for example, or lace-trimmed miniskirts — with softer romantic pieces, such as high-neck guipure lace bell-sleeve tops. She also introduced a few sleek pants silhouettes, cutting them with front-slits or open ruffles to allow movement. Evening gowns featured rich embellishments, such as transparent mesh bodices covered in floral-embroidered sequins and appliqués.

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Neil Barrett Pre-Fall 2017

Reworking men’s tailoring from a female point of view may have been a tad predictable for Neil Barrett’s pre-fall collection. But he put aside the overt sporty references of his recent collection in favor of clothes that offered adult appeal for professional women. Barrett developed a reality-based wardrobe where sharp silhouettes, clean lines and sober colors conveyed a sophisticated, minimal elegance. Spencer jackets, blazers, coats and trenches were updated with cutouts at the underarm. Peekaboo slashes on the backs of cotton poplin shirts in masculine patterns introduced a sensuality to a classic men’s item. Pants took center stage in the lineup — flared styles with bands down the legs, wide-leg culottes and skinny washed jeans — while skirts and dresses cut just below the knee exuded discreet femininity.

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Antonio Marras Pre-Fall 2017

David Herbert Lawrence’s “Lady Chatterley’s Lover” and a Seventies Italian erotic movie are potentially risky inspirations for a designer — beware the line between sexy and trashy. But Antonio Marras would never be so on the nose. He knows the art of nuance. Despite his hot references, his pre-fall collection was all about a chic eccentricity. The sensuality that coursed through the lineup was carefully balanced by mannish accents.
Lady Chatterley’s British origins emerged in a selection of traditional English patterns, such as checks and tartan, all mixed and matched with contrasting leopard and botanical motifs. For example, Marras’ creative métissage gave an eclectic feel to a patchwork bomber and coat that were embroidered with Asian flowers. The indulgent, sophisticated femininity of multicolored lace dresses, and lightweight printed silk cut into fluid, languid dress silhouette was compliment by the edgy modernism of upcycled embroidered military parkas. Marras delivered another rich, expressive collection that articulated his vast imagination.

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Amanda Wakeley Pre-Fall 2017

Amanda Wakeley blended her signature fluid silhouettes with Japanese-inspired elements for her latest pre-collection. “I imagined a woman who has a French mother and a Japanese father, she lives in the West yet also has a longing for the East,” said Wakeley. “But let’s not get too carried away, this is pre-fall so it’s all about clothes you can wear now.”
Japanese influences were subtle, packaged as printed wrap dresses, crisp cotton shirts with kimono-inspired sleeves and tasseled belts wrapped around trousers, gowns and pencil skirts. A dramatic black and metallic red cloqué fabric featured on handbags, evening dresses and a lightweight, short-sleeve coat. “To me that is [Asia],” she said of a voluminous, A-line cloqué gown.
Repositioning her brand, primarily known for eveningwear, as a lifestyle label, Wakeley emphasized easy-to-wear separates: oversized cashmere knits with chiffon panels on the back, high-waisted striped trousers, leather joggers and a range of outerwear, including sporty shearling parka and a feminine black coat. Still, she couldn’t abandon her eveningwear core. Her signature lace and silk tulle cocktail dresses were intact. Highlights included a metallic embroidered tulle midi-dress and a bold lace, long-sleeve gown paired with a barely there corseted slip.

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Tanya Taylor Pre-Fall 2017

Vivid hand-painted prints are essential to Tanya Taylor’s design process but lately she’s been expanding into more textural surface treatments, such as embroidery and crystal embellishments, as well as knits. For her vibrant, cheery pre-fall collection she channeled her exuberant color into bird embroideries on voluminous summer dresses, an embroidered leather dress and striped knit tanks layered over embroidered men’s shirts. “We did a lot of layering men’s shirts and dresses,” Taylor said. “I’ve been wearing it a lot and it’s so easy to separate the pieces.” Speaking of separates, pants are a big part of her business. Here, a wide-leg Army green style, slashed up the leg with embroidered trim offered a slightly masculine counterpoint to all of her feminine blouses.

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Jeffrey Dodd Pre-Fall 2017

Jeffrey Dodd didn’t have to look far for inspiration: His first pre-fall lineup took cues from the Jean DuBuffet public art piece “Group of Four Trees” near his home in Lower Manhattan. The loopy, amorphous lines of the 40-foot, black-and-white sculpture, installed in 1971, carried over into Dodd’s collection via curved embroideries and textures. It was easy to see the connection on a slinky, three-quarter sleeve gown hand-embroidered with silver and violet sequins in a camouflage wave pattern.
Tailored silk suiting and separates have been a Dodd signature, but here, an amped up selection of eveningwear showcased his eye for luxe, modernist craftsmanship. For example, a black strapless jumpsuit with a chiffon overlay and a subtle metallic sheen worn under a belted astrakhan fur coat, and blouses covered in tightly stacked sequins that looked like caviar beading.
Dodd is shifting his strategy to release four tight collections per year rather than two. “It’s about doing more deliveries of smaller collections, so there’s this newness factor,” Dodd said. “And I also work better if I don’t get to stop.”

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Rubin Singer Pre-Fall 2017

Pre-fall was an exercise in logic for Rubin Singer. “For us, it’s a precursor to fall, and at the same time, it delivers in summer,” he said. “So, I divided it in two parts.” The collection’s straight-up summer supply was expressed in light colors and airy dress silhouettes: a gardenia print fit-and-flare, a graffiti printed style with a lace overlay and a multicolor lace dress with puffed sleeves stood out for being wearable and highly designed. The true fall portion of the lineup came in a predictably darker palette and was more structured than the breezy warm weather stuff, relying on the severe shapes for which Singer is known.
There were some nice surprises. A deep-V peplum dress with a double corset sounds tricky but was actually pretty sleek on the bodice. “It’s an important silhouette for me” said Singer of the double corset. And lest he be forever pigeon-holed as an eveningwear designer, Singer revealed that a new capsule collection will bow in 16 Neiman Marcus doors, with its focus on a range of ready-to-wear and daywear. “The demand for separates is definitely there,” he said.

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Shoshanna Pre-Fall 2017

Shoshanna Gruss imagined her jet-setting Shoshanna girls perusing spice markets in Indonesia. That explained the pre-fall lineup’s richly textured looks — heavy on embroidered laces and peekaboo eyelets — and its earthy palette of saffrons and fiery reds. Comprised of day-to-cocktail minidresses and a few evening looks from her Shoshanna Midnight range, the collection skewed ultra-feminine with tiered ruffles, bell sleeves, off-the-shoulder necklines and flirty gingham prints. “All of it has a Sixties/Seventies Talitha Getty feel,” Gruss said during a walk-through. Her paisley-printed, blouson-sleeve gypsy dresses and eyelet tunics certainly invoked a bohemian sensibility, perfect to pack for a journey to Southeast Asia — or anywhere, really.

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Theia Pre-Fall 2017

Don O’Neill’s pre-fall mood board featured the work of Dutch artist Albert Koetsier, known for his X-ray photography of flowers, animals and sea shells. Koetsier’s photographs worked their way into Theia’s cocktail and eveningwear in subtle ways — a few looks featured an X-ray-inspired tulip print, and one slinky sleeveless column gown, cut to the mid-calf, was decorated with contrasting lace embroidery to mimic the transparency and dimension of an X-ray.
Overall, O’Neill’s looks brimmed with the feminine frills that have become signature to Theia: voluminous cape and lantern sleeves, asymmetrical ruffles, cold-shoulder details and sparkle. A red slipdress with a cutaway hemline covered in 3-D floral appliqués exuded playful sensuality. More restrained — and no less chic — was O’Neill’s off-the-shoulder crepe jumpsuit with a Chantilly lace overlay.

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Maria Grazia Severi Pre-Fall 2017

Maria Grazia Severi’s design team looked at the artwork of Franco Fontana for pre-fall. His distinctive cuts in canvas and the bright color palette he favored served as inspirations for the collection’s clean lines and colorblocking. Its graphic quality was enhanced by the plissé rendered on different fabrics, from silk crafted from comfortable pajamalike pants to the knitted wool of feminine dresses with flared cuffs. Delicate ruffles punctuated an elegant cape and decorated the collar of a simple minidress in a bold red tone. The cute, soft femininity of these pieces was balanced by the more rigorous appeal of coats and suits crafted from mannish fabrics. The lineup offered a complete, commercially savvy wardrobe for women who crave round-the-clock elegance.

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I’m Isola Marras Pre-Fall 2017

Antonio Marras channeled an Andean mood for pre-fall in his I’m Isola Marras contemporary line. The designer didn’t take the inspiration too literally, but reworked it through his eclectic sensibility. He paired cozy knits with graphic intarsia and fringed details, including oversize cardigans and sweaters, with maxi floral dresses, as well as padded jackets with functional appeal. The color palette ranged from tones of green and brown to bouquetlike hues of pink, lilac and yellow. The brand’s signature multicolor stripes were juxtaposed with tile-inspired romantic graphics, as well as micro polka dots. While the jumpsuits — crafted by combining different fabrics — had a workwear-inspired, mannish attitude, micro skirts worn with fitted jackets had a cute school-uniform feel. Spanning from folk to sweet, Marras mixed and matched different influences in a charming collection marked by his hypercreative approach.

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No. 21 Pre-Fall 2017

For pre-fall, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua said he combined an attitude inspired by American sportswear with a typical Italian aesthetic. The designer captured the two influences by looking at the Fifties, which were echoed in both the silhouettes and the fabrics. Despite the retro feel, the lineup looked modern and captivating. Playing with contrasts, Dell’Acqua paired a checkered bustier dress embellished with an embroidered peplum, with an oversize cardigan infused with a nerdy, college-inspired attitude. A hyper-feminine circle skirt was matched with a maxi sweatshirt and a sleeveless wool trenchcoat. The brand’s signature sportswear references were softened this season. Case in point: the staple No. 21 bomber was crafted from soft mohair and printed with romantic flowers. This was layered over a silk dress punctuated by delicate ruffles.

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Mother of Pearl Pre-Fall 2017

A photo of Mother of Pearl creative director Amy Powney’s father, shirtless and sitting astride a butch looking motorbike in distressed jeans in the late Seventies in the Powney family’s backyard, sparked the inspiration for the brand’s last pre-fall collection before it adopts a see-now-buy-now model from next September, when it will show fall 2017 on the catwalk.
Papa Powney’s jeans informed the many denim pieces and raw edges throughout the collection, like boiler suits and a playful halter jumpsuit with floral halter straps, while the summertime blooms in the photo inspired the wildflowers and roses that appeared in botanical florals of daisies and roses.
Those florals were a pretty foil to the tougher denim pieces, charming in a cream dress with bared shoulders, fluted sleeves and frills under the bust; and looked striking in a black and red rose print wrap skirt, fastened with velvet ribbons and opening to reveal a contrasting pleated insert.
Heavy khaki cord was another Seventies nod, and looked great in an oversize biker jacket, while Powney’s signature sporty Nineties raver accents were seen in the gathered ankles of floral silk track pants and in the press-studs that opened up the front of nicely tailored trousers in floral

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Dsquared2 Pre-Fall 2017

Dean and Dan Caten took an imaginative trip to the mountains for pre-fall. Despite the main inspiration, which especially echoed in the use of fabrics and sporty accents, the collection was focused on a sharp, urban look enhanced by the color palette, dominated by black with hints of white and red. Padded and quilted details appeared on the sleek outerwear, functional zippers punctuated the graphic minidresses, while sweatshirts cut in oversize silhouettes were crafted from technical jersey. Leather took center stage in the lineup. It came bonded with jersey for a T-shirt dress cinched at the waist with a tone-on-tone belt, or patchworked for slim pants and a motorbike jacket recalling motorcycle ice racing uniforms. The Caten twins also paid tribute to their native Canada via a forest-inspired print appearing on a silk T-shirt and a minidress and the traditional black-and-red checks of a bomber jacket embellished with a rich fur collar. Channeling a more laid-back and less bling-bling look, Dsquared2 offered a solid wardrobe for contemporary women who head to exclusive ski resorts after a week at the office.

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Galvan Pre-Fall 2017

For pre-fall, London-based Galvan aimed to widen its consumer reach with more diverse occasion attire. Since launching in 2014, the brand has become known for minimally chic cocktail slipdresses — with a celebrity following including Selena Gomez, Rihanna, Jennifer Lawrence and Sienna Miller, among others. This collection took the idea of relaxed evening and offered separates appropriate for day. Cold-shoulder tops, playful lace-up trousers and an expansion on jumpsuits were not only more affordable evening alternatives, but also held more opportunities to wear them, with the same clean aesthetic.
Inspired by architect Tadao Ando, the lineup balanced calm and clean with a slight masculine touch. Ando’s influence was seen in the “boxing” laces found on jumpsuits and evening tops, akin to the elastic binding boxers wrap around their hands. The color of the lacing can be customized, as well, so customers have the option of contrasting colors for a graphic, mismatched look. Ando’s masculine influence was subtle, always allowing feminine silhouettes to shine. Naturally, there were updates to the line’s signature long dresses, including color options for a high-performing sequined number, a rust-colored high-necked dress and color-blocked versions of diamond cutout slips.

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Roksanda Pre-Fall 2017

Roksanda Ilincic was inspired by William Eggleston photos of Seventies America — especially deserts, gas stations and grannies in cat-eye glasses. She was in a nostalgic mood, adding workwear elements to her signature voluminous forms and shading her collection with copper and dark green, orange and peach, and flashes of metallic fabric.
It was grand, beautiful and unmistakably Roksanda, from the chunky 3-D desert flowers that dotted the waist of a petrol Neoprene jacket or spilled lavishly over the shoulders of a black one. Sixties and Seventies nostalgia also came in an A-line coat with giant buttons resembling sea urchins, or a long breezy bohemian dress, dark green with a wide orange and peach hem.
There were culottes galore, done in heavy cotton twill and adorned with big mismatched buttons, and even a boiler suit glammed up with a silver metallic fabric. Knits had big bell sleeves and those crazy buttons again. There’s no forgetting a woman dressed in Roksanda: Whatever decade she’s working, she’s doing it with drama.

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Iceberg Pre-Fall 2017

For his first pre-fall collection for Iceberg, creative director James Long combined the brand’s signature Pop attitude with his familiar London, downtown mood. The result was a playful, youthful lineup that celebrated a lively, relaxed femininity peppered with a hint of eccentricity. Cartoons from the Batman series were splashed on a range of pieces, from a silk duchesse bomber matched with acid-washed cuffed pants to a maxi ruffled dress. They also appeared as intarsia details on a maxi fringed knitted sweater worn with an asymmetric striped skirt. The military, rigorous feel of a coat with multiple pockets was softened by the insertion of glittery stars, and the floor-length chiffon and lace dresses incorporated sporty elements for a cool touch. Everything exalted the urban, street feel of the brand, which after several changes during the last few years seems to have found a new, captivating language to express its ironic take on upper contemporary fashion.

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Brooks Brothers Pre-Fall 2017

Brooks Brothers is, above all, a brand associated with dressing for the workplace. With that in mind, Zac Posen chose as his pre-fall inspiration a photograph by Nine Leen of Eileen Ford that ran in Life magazine in the Fifties, and captured Ford’s busy life as a new mother and a career woman launching her agency. In other words, a woman who has it all.
The proverbial day-to-night paradigm guided the collection, with Posen building modernity and even some trends into Brooks Brothers’ ultra classic vernacular. There was a lot of what’s been working well for Posen — printed shirt dresses with full skirts, neat jacquard shifts, cropped jackets and fitted jackets, stretchy knits and updates on his signature dresses with saucy anatomical seaming, here, made office-appropriate. What felt new was denim tailoring with braided trim; twists on shirting and suiting, including a blue-and-white striped shirt and shirtdress that fell off the shoulder, and a riff on a classic pinstripe pantsuit with a tailored top instead of a blazer. With this collection Brooks Brothers also reintroduced its classic oxford shirt program, now made in America, in two styles — point collar and classic button down — and a range of colors.

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Jenni Kayne Pre-Fall 2017

In her own words, Jenni Kayne’s pre-fall collection was about “a more refreshing take on nature, which is very much how I live in the summer,” she said. “The idea is grabbing shelter under the trees, being by the fire with your friends or hiking on your own.” Maybe hiking to the nearest farmer’s market. After a walk-through of the collection, it was obvious that Kayne is more of a glamper than a camper. The sexy/sweet look of fresh, lingerie-inspired slipdresses, crop tops and shorts paired with checked flannel shirts was the stuff of a pampered country home existence. Set it in the city and it took on a stylish, Nineties vibe.
There was a lot to work with in terms of casual summer chic: cropped utility jackets and high-wasted twill shorts and pants with horn-like buttons, all done in navy, white and Army green. There were striped knit T-shirts and T-shirt dresses, a polka dot blouse and skirt and elevated sweats, all of it sprung from slightly preppy classics updated for a current, worn-in attitude.

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Robert Rodriguez Pre-Fall 2017

Vintage fabrics and a feminine-versus-masculine approach is typically the formula at Robert Rodriguez. For pre-fall, he played with proportions, classics and separates designed to go the distance in his clients’ closets, while offering a smattering of specialty items meant to keep one’s wardrobe of the moment. Elongated tops, leather trenches, paper-bag denim pants, lean dresses over trousers and tons of shirting options offered versatility and wearability, while a vintage-inspired tapestry print dress and coat made the collection’s trendy statements.
 

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Samuji Pre-Fall 2017

It’s been a big year for Samuji. Earlier this month, the Helsinki-based label opened its first U.S. store, housing its women’s, accessories and home collections at 12 Prince Street in New York City’s NoLiTa neighborhood. For pre-fall, designer Jenni Väänänen looked to Annemarie Schwarzenbach, the enigmatic Swiss journalist and traveler who was known during her tragically short life for her sense of adventure, her love affairs, most notably with American novelist Carson McCullers and for her staunchly androgynous style.
Rather than replicating Schwarzenbach’s tomboy look, Väänänen mingled a few masculine elements — cropped, cuffed and pleated trousers and oversize grandpa cardigans — with more feminine pieces. Her clever mix of textures ranged from the sensual —  printed silk pajamas and a liquid satin orange dress — to raw, such as sandy-colored waxed linen and nubby silk wrap-tops. All of it exuded confidence and ease.

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Rag & Bone Pre-Fall 2017

Rag & Bone sources much of its fabric from Japan. In fact, the first fabric purchased for the collection was Japanese denim, which Marcus Wainwright brought back for pre-fall in a boyish/mommish workwear style with grommet detailing at the waist. “Next year is our 15th anniversary,” said Wainwright during a preview of the collection. “We’re feeling nostalgic.”
Indigos, patchwork denim, workwear, wrap kimono dresses, a quilted indigo jacket, blown-out black-and-white gingham board shorts and a cold shoulder top all traced back to Japan — Wainwright described the mood as “a twisted Japanese view of America.” The collection’s main print was a postcard-inspired palm tree and beach scene taken from old Ocean Pacific gear. The overall attitude was easygoing, cool clothes for warm weather. “We’re ignoring the name of the season,” said Wainwright. “It’s ridiculous. This ships when it’s 95 degrees and everyone’s at the beach.” There were no swimsuits but Wainwright hammered the point home with the palm tree motifs and look book images with a beach backdrop.

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MaxMara to Show Pre-Fall and Capsule Collections in Shanghai

HEADING EAST: Max Mara will collaborate with Chinese artist Liu Wei in a presentation of its pre-fall collection, as well as a one-off capsule collection, to be unveiled in Shanghai on Thursday evening.
The event will be held at the city’s Exhibition Centre on the main shopping thoroughfare of Nanjing Road, and has been called “Monopolis,” the name of an imagined futuristic urban landscape in which Liu Wei’s sculptures and installations will act as the landmarks that Max Mara women negotiate as part of the show.
The 11-piece capsule collection, which was also designed in collaboration with Liu Wei, is inspired by architectural drawings and city maps and produced in Max Mara’s signature palette of camel, black and white.
Pieces from the limited-edition capsule collection will be available for purchase immediately after the show at 45 Max Mara flagships around the world, as well as on the brand’s web site.

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Yeohlee Pre-Fall 2017

Yeohlee Teng found herself in a New York state of mind while designing her latest pre-fall lineup, full of practical and quietly stylish pieces for real life. “It’s urban and it’s street,” Teng said. “I would say it’s fully functional. Whether it’s spring, summer, fall or winter — you’re all covered.”
Sometimes pragmatism reads boring, but that wasn’t the case here. Using denim, lightweight wool and her signature microfiber, Teng offered boyish trousers and shorts to pair with oversize tanks and cool jackets. An abstract feather print decorated a few pieces in the lineup, which was kept to a dark palette of grays, blacks and blues. Each piece was carefully and cleverly considered — as in a skinny pencil skirt with a slightly draped back that allowed for movement sans slit, or a collared shirtdress with side darts to accentuate the waist. Outerwear included a micro-quilted nylon jacket — a more delicate take on the puffer — and a plaid textured tweed coat that had the effect of a blanket.

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M Missoni Pre-Fall 2017

Missoni’s signature zigzag and Lurex knits were worked into what could be described as contemporary bourgeois sport for pre-fall. Elements of the classic — plaid blazers, modestly cut feminine dresses — were styled with sporty hoodies and stirrup pants. Geode motifs gave an earthy, psychedelic spirit, while patent pants and feminist photo prints offered a rebellious rock attitude. There was a little something for everyone, all of it rendered in understandable silhouettes.

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Milly Pre-Fall 2017

“I wanted this collection to project confidence and power and inner strength — as a woman, especially after the election, I was feeling defeated — so this is all about rising above” said Michelle Smith at her pre-fall collection. Fashionwise, she won. Every look is a winner, as the formula is consistent with what is resonating with women who are into fashion.
The ultimate power item: a men’s shirt, reworked in feminine ways — cropped at the front, maxi at the back. “A lot of the shirting fabrics I sourced from a traditional men’s shirting company in Italy,” Smith said. But there was also a nod to comfort dressing via track pants paired with cashmere knits and wide-leg trousers, which she recut from her archives.
But the Milly girl is social, no matter the states of politics, so for pre-fall she won’t be trying too hard. She’ll show up in a cool black lace pleated midi skirt and an oversize sweater. More power to that!

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Lela Rose Pre-Fall 2017

With the wildflower as her muse, Lela Rose’s whimsical pre-fall collection centered around vibrant florals. Feminine silhouettes defined the lineup — ladylike A-line dresses, plunging V-neck gowns for evening and bell-sleeved blouses, peplum tops and full skirts for day — all rendered in punchy hues of yellow, fuchsia and royal blue. Rose loves to play with surface texture, adding dimension to her silk faille, jacquard and fil coupé looks with fuzzy pom-poms, woven silk fringe and 3-D appliqués. Most unexpected: A collared shirtdress rendered in colorful botanical guipure lace embroidery with a voluminous black tulle skirt for a chic statement both bold and demure.
Elsewhere, a few colorful dresses in floral-printed cotton voile felt airy, effortless and smart for the transitional season. Paired with Rose’s sheer, floral-embroidered socks, the looks took on a playful sophistication.

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Alice + Olivia Pre-Fall 2017

The coolest girl in the room is never actually in the room, she’s backstage; and Stacey Bendet knows all about her. “It was pretty much about the girls with the band, almost like girls in the green room,” she said. Bendet blended the Seventies and Nineties seamlessly for a “very much now” result, also drawing heavily from the music festival scene. Take, for instance, a romantic silk burnout dress paired with a cool flat boot; an embroidered robe that can be worn with anything from jeans to a dressier suede strapless number, or little embroidered “folky” jackets that still work for today.
On a dressier note, Bendet offered beautiful lace gowns as well as more versatile options, like great embroidered full skirts. “I wanted to make them more casual,” she said. “I made them in a really light silk cotton so they can be dressed up or edged up with a leather bustier.”
To complete the looks, Bendet launched sunglasses in all sorts of fun shapes, with embellishments and playful details sure to make her customer happy.

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Marissa Webb Pre-Fall 2017

By now, it’s pretty evident Marissa Webb has a penchant to play on a masculine-feminine dichotomy filtered with a Fifties-style lens. She loves to juxtapose a reworked military jacket against a feminine floral print. “I think you’re all familiar that I have a little obsession with green,” Webb joked at a preview in her apartment. Her latest collection was a project of passion featuring her favorite things — outerwear, item blouses and leather — instead of one trying to cover the gamut.
It’s been important for Webb to design clothes that really speak to her customers, whether men or women. Updated versions of her high-performing military jackets (bought by both genders) were rendered with special details including zipper shoulders, drawstring waists and wool knit backing. Similarly, comfortable-looking distressed leather jackets were gender-neutral. Leather factored prominently elsewhere on roomy pants, including “cute dorky length” culottes. The collection was tighter than in seasons past, not only in bulk but also in use of fabrics. Tops and bottoms were made with the same laces, leather and other soft fabrics to encourage mix-and-match dressing. Roomy blouses were easy and luxurious with cutouts and sheer lace details. To boil it down, Webb is increasingly gravitating toward

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Elie Saab Pre-Fall 2017

Queen of Hearts — as in the fictional monarch from “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland” — meets Eighties excess? So declared the press notes for Elie Saab’s latest pre-fall lineup, which demonstrated the label’s continued emphasis on daywear and cocktail looks. The references came through, thankfully, with subtlety: Heart motifs were worked into a few pieces in the collection via sweetheart necklines and golden heart charms, which added texture to a Victorian-style sheer lace blouse. Exaggerated power shoulders nodded to the decade on a few of the collection’s embellished jackets and dresses; ditto: a black leather miniskirt decorated with heart-shaped velvet embroidery. Saab’s take on street included an oversize velvet hoodie decorated with crystal embroidery and a nylon parka accented with lush fox fur.
This being Saab, there were plenty of glamorous evening gowns on tap. One highlight was a transparent lace high-neck number covered in 3-D floral leather appliqués — Victorian prim but not all the way proper. For party girls, Saab’s decadent, festive dresses covered in allover confetti beads and sequins should fit the bill.

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Cinq à Sept Pre-Fall 2017

Pre-fall marks Cinq à Sept’s first birthday, and Jane Siskin seems to have nailed what her girl wants: pretty, wearable clothes full of distinct and thoughtful detail. She crafted an elaborate story for pre-fall, one that involved her Cinq à Sept girl heading home to Havana, where she rummages through vintage heirlooms, mixing the brooches, buttons and belts she finds into her own modern wardrobe.
The result was a collection of flirty dresses and separates brimming with romantic flourish — from playful cropped and fringed trousers to silk orchid-printed button-down blouses accented with jeweled buttons and cummerbunds. The lineup encompassed several moods, offering everything from casual canvas army jackets decorated with sequin patches to boudoir-inspired cocktail dresses with lace-up bustiers and peekaboo lace trim. A spicy red two-piece dress with a ruffled skirt — the quintessential party dress — invoked a distinctively Caribbean flair.

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Co Pre-Fall 2017

Stephanie Danan and Justin Kern infused their pre-fall lineup with a “Days of Heaven” sense of romance on the prairie, updated for 2017. There was quite a range, from black floral embroidered dresses and knits with pearl embellishment to lightweight white eyelet and true blue denim. For pre-fall, Danan and Kern also introduced an essentials group, a year-round offering of core pieces — knits, blouses and dresses — with a proven track record.

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Michael Kors Pre-Fall 2017

The pre-seasons have become about two things: the clothes themselves and, in this age of Instagram, insta-access, insta-everything, how and when designers sanction their unveiling.
Along the way, the editorial embargo — once viewed by journalists as a last-resort deal with the devil to secure a major, sensitive story — is now applied regularly to the often fine, seldom scintillating array of tops, pants and dresses that comprise the resort and pre-fall collections. It’s — what’s the word? Ridiculous.
Thank the fashion gods that, even in these crazy times, some designers retain a sense of perspective, Michael Kors at the top of the list. Yes, he fears the fast-fashion knock-off machine. But as he sees it, the “big reveal” need not be an all-or-nothing affair. Thus Kors shows his full collection to both short- and long-lead press and designates a number of looks for photography, for pre-fall upping the count from six looks to 10. Nobody needs any more. (WWD does not see embargoed collections; we wait for the embargo to lift, so we can do our job, which is to report on what we see.)
While Kors’ pre-fall looked fresh, it picked up on a major current from his upbeat spring collection, inspired, he said

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3.1 Phillip Lim Pre-Fall

“Forget the neutral, understandable collection before the collection. Nowadays, you have to use every chance you can to say something,” said Phillip Lim about his pre-fall collection — and he didn’t fall short in the fashion statement department. For starters, he thought about the first time he “desired clothes — the beginning of MTV, the new romantics and the early Eighties and Nineties,” which he referenced mostly via aggregated details on classic sportswear, like pearl buttons on shirts and coats, corset waistbands on trousers and jackets, and the occasional utilitarian element on maxidresses.
Bits of Victoriana successfully carried over from spring with lacing details on denim skirts, petticoat dresses layered over bloomers and gathered collars on tops. “Its all about those familiar references, reworked,” said Lim. “We have clothes,” he said. “Now we have to bring back desire.”
Mission accomplished. Women will covet a lot from this collection.

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Narciso Rodriguez Pre-Fall 2017

Narciso Rodriguez was designing his pre-fall collection around the same time he was working on costumes for the New York City ballet — a project he very much enjoyed — earlier this year. Many of the construction and palette details he used on the beautifully minimal and gentle costumes danced their way into the pre-fall lineup, including the combination of blush tones against black and the body-conscious fits crafted from collaged and spliced fabrics. “We call this the ballet dress because it was one of the pieces in the performance that now has a skirt on it,” said Rodriguez, holding up a tight nude and black dress with spare corset seaming details that was a leotard on the stage and a sexy dress for retail. A cropped bubble jacket and a cropped knit top that could be worn wrapped or open with long panels in the front were also reminiscent of traditional ballerina gear, and paired well with the collection’s high-waisted pants.
Rodriguez focused on graphic themes, angles and shapes “that are fluid and quite sensuous,” emphasizing those points in a fantastic look book, shot by Oliver Hadlee Pearch, which captured the graceful strength of an evening top, short in the front,

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Tomas Maier Pre-Fall 2017

Tomas Maier is resolute in his no-nonsense approach to his own collection. Pre-fall was about serving the right clothes for the right weather. “I know from the store that at that time of year, many women haven’t event shopped for summer yet,” said Maier during a preview. “They start to look in June, really.” So he stocked the lineup with crisp cotton poplins — tanks, pleated skirts and voluminous house dresses that could be worn big or belted — as well as satin dresses with a vaguely Thirties sensibility. “It’s very informal,” Maier said. He addressed the transitional nature of the deliver with a bonded leather outerwear and skirts and overdyed merino sweaters with sleeves that could zip on and off to adjust to the temperature. As always, the collection was rooted in classics. There’s no arguing with the perennial style of a great poplin shirt or navy leather trench, but it wouldn’t hurt to dial the collection up with a few more statement pieces.
On the men’s side, Maier continued to infuse a casual touch. This season, his off-duty man favored baggy wool track pants, Neoprene anoraks and knit button-down hoodies. Statement camouflage prints, painterly houndstooth patterns and reverse taping

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Tse Pre-Fall 2017

The design team at Tse drew from Georgia O’Keeffe for its pre-fall lineup, but not in the obvious way. Zooming in at a macro level, the team abstracted the geometric shapes present in O’Keeffe’s modernist floral and desert paintings. The curved lines informed circular shoulder cutouts on the label’s signature cashmere sweaters. Elsewhere, beaded and needle-punched embroidery decorated knits in wavelike patterns, creating a cool sense of texture, while bright pops of blue and green kept the lineup fresh. One ribbed sweater with a generously draped cowl-neck could be worn off-the-shoulder for a more sensual take.

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Norma Kamali Pre-Fall 2017

Norma Kamali continued to blur the lines between active, swim and ready-to-wear in her pre-fall collection, which mixed tailored separates with her signature, easy ath-leisure wear. “I’ve become obsessed with prints,” Kamali said during a preview. “More and more, it’s an important part of what pulls the collections together.” Her latest lineup included graphic stripes, micro leopard spots and abstract marble prints in black, navy and gray.
Kamali’s dresses were standouts this season: They featured elongated sleeves that could be wrapped and tied in many ways, as demonstrated in her energetic, seasonal dance videos. She also piled on texture with silver studding and tiered layers of fringe — the latter adorning bell-bottoms and a bell-sleeved top in one particularly festive look. Other pants, cut loose with ample volume — Kamali nicknamed them her “elephant pants” — were done in slightly sheer poly-jersey and decorated with athletic side stripes. A series of cotton tanks and Ts featuring empowerment slogans and wild animals added to the playful pattern-mixing.

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Etro Pre-Fall 2017

The mood at Etro was reassuring and cheerful, despite the sense of confusion and uncertainty lingering in the world today.
Etro is one of the few companies that does not shy away from the idea of delivering pre-collections that are rich and creative but strongly rooted with a commercially savvy approach. This season, creative director Veronica Etro celebrated some of the brand’s iconic motifs.
“This is an ode to exoticism and to color explosion,” said the designer, referring to the flamboyant palette and vibrant attitude of prints and embroideries. These were described by the designer as “a definite floral and paisley blossom worthy of Frida Khalo.”
Lush flowers were combined with Etro’s signature paisley motifs on a range of pieces cut in flowing, relaxed silhouettes, such as a silk plisse wrap dress cinched at the waist with a soft silk belt, as well as a feather-light silk poncho trimmed with fringes.
A graphic appeal was introduced via the checkered pattern of cigarette pants matched with a coordinated crewneck sweater and a silk shirt. Geometric motifs were also mixed in a patchwork long-sleeved shirtdress featuring a bias-cut ruffled edge and an embroidered flower decoration.
Everything exuded a sense of elegance peppered by eccentric touches, which updated Etro’s iconic globetrotter-inspired aesthetic.

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Bottega Veneta Pre-Fall 2017

Tomas Maier is known for his pragmatism. He doesn’t gush and gloss over his collections, whether at Bottega Veneta or his own line. He’s a realist. So a little real talk for his Bottega Veneta pre-fall lineup, shown earlier than ever: “It’s kind of a stupid name for a collection that delivers between May and June, right?” said Maier, during a preview at the look book shoot in Long Island City. He went on to point out the lightweight fabrics — silk crepe, gabardine, ultralight napa, double-faced cashmere jacquard and knits — mentioning that he views pre-fall as a continuation of the spring runway (his was fabulous) and a wardrobe update of things that women who come to the store will want at that time of year. That meant chic sweats for travel, neat suits, knit dresses and bags galore.
Maier’s no nonsense attitude was appreciated even if it downplayed the practical romance of the collection. Full of beautiful colors that ranged from dusty, faded pinks and purples chosen “because they look really pretty on the skin” to rich, bright orange, red and yellow, many of the looks carried on the Forties romance that Maier updated so wonderfully for spring. Asked what

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Diesel Black Gold Pre-Fall 2017

Classic signature pieces of the brand’s contemporary heritage were at the core of Diesel Black Gold’s pre-fall collection.
Creative director Andreas Melbostad continued his process of hybridization to realize unconventional outerwear, including cropped biker jackets combined with quilted nylon looks. Their masculine, slightly tough attitude was tempered by peasant blouses, pinafore skirts and a plissé leather overall skirt. Enhancing the street appeal of the collection, a Seventies retro sporty inspiration was echoed in wide-leg pants with side bands running down the legs, as well as in the zippered cardigans embellished by graphic motifs. Key themes of the women’s range returned in the men’s lineup for a look that was almost unisex.
Hybrid outerwear included a peacoat combined with a bomber jacket, as well as a field jacket mixed with a quilted nylon style. Pants were cut slim and ranged from aviator-inspired nylon trousers with multiple zippers to jeans with colorful side bands. The collection was infused with an urban attitude, which turned modern and appealing for Diesel Black Gold’s tribe of metropolitan cool kids.

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ATM Anthony Thomas Melillo Pre-Fall 2017

Tony Melillo isn’t concerned with reinventing the wheel at his contemporary brand, ATM Anthony Thomas Melillo, where his M.O. is to elevate and perfect the casual and familiar. But when it comes to fits and fabrics — the way in which sweatpants drape on the leg, for example — he’s meticulous. “Our girl, and our customers, want the best of the best,” he said during a walk-through of his latest pre-fall collection, a lineup of luxurious casual wear done in a muted, neutral palette punctuated with soft pinks and stripes. “That’s what people come back for…and anything that we develop has to have that hand-feel and that relaxed elegance that allows it to fit into this world.”

Melillo’s finely ribbed off-the-shoulder bodysuits, dresses and sweatpants — snug to the body and double-layered for coverage — were well-suited for layering with his oversize silk bomber jackets or hooded V-neck chenille sweatshirts. Other knits — such as speckled cashmere and striped sweaters — were cut oversize with exposed seaming. Tailored gray suiting with black velvet accents, or a languid silk shirtdress in rosy pink, rounded out the relaxed offering with a dose of polish. “As casual as we are, we still feel sexy

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The Curious Timing of Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2016

About a week ago, an invitation to see Balenciaga’s pre-fall 2016 collection began to hit inboxes. In WWD’s office, more than one editor’s initial reaction was “Resort? Already?” Nope. Pre-fall, as in the season that precedes the fall collection that was widely publicized in Paris over a month ago. That would make this pre-fall post-fall in a way, but now we’re just being confusing.
That’s because it’s nothing if not confusing. WWD asked Balenciaga to clarify the meaning of this oddball timing. Long-lead press and other outlets, including WWD, that have agreed to hold off on publishing a review of the pre-fall collection until May, when the house is ready to release images of the clothes, can view the collection Tuesday at the Balenciaga showroom in New York. Is this part of a strategy akin to what The Row and Proenza Schouler and even Madewell, have adopted, withholding images until the clothes are ready to hit at retail? Did Demna Gvasalia design the collection? Will this impact the way Balenciaga shows pre-collections, including resort, which is but a month or two away?
Balenciaga president and chief executive officer Isabelle Guichot told WWD via email that the timing of this particular pre-fall is a one-time thing. “When

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ATM Anthony Thomas Melillo Pre-Fall 2016

Tony Melillo referred to his latest pre-fall collection as “grunge-luxe.” His lineup of languid sweaters, wide-leg trousers and graphic, Modish minidresses oozed an understated, wearable ease; one that was undone but never messy. Silk blouses, tailored jackets and jumpsuits in sandy neutral tones were finished with oversize breast pockets, riffing on subtle utilitarian themes. Relaxed silhouettes came updated in textural fabrics — such as a large cardigan in a gauzy tape yarn and a few camisoles and skirts in crushed velvet — and were toughened up when paired with leather miniskirts and jackets.

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Burberry Pre-Fall 2016

Christopher Bailey’s first collection under the single Burberry label featured lush outerwear, military references and nods to the sporting life in the form of Burberry-emblazoned cashmere sweatshirts and striped zip-front cardigans. It was a pleasing play on proportion and texture with none of the grungy edge of the spring collection.
 
Bailey glammed up everyday outerwear with fur, doing up duffles in a mix of raccoon and fox; whipping white shearling into oversize aviator jackets or a double-breasted coat, and slipping a raccoon collar onto a trench-inspired cape. On the slimmer side, there was a sleek, belted cinnamon suede trench with a wide collar and a wink to the Seventies.
 
Spring’s military theme marched on into pre-fall in the form of dark cropped jackets, dramatic capes and fitted, elongated coats with rows of shiny buttons and red contrast piping on pockets and collars.
 
Dresses, skirts and coats showcased the collection’s signature detail — a contrast luggage-stitch motif that ran daintily over wispy silk crepe dresses, stretch denim skirts and wool boot-cut trousers.

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Etro Pre-Fall 2016

Veronica Etro’s arty approach to pre-fall combined “bold Matisse florals and soft graphics.” Her mix-and-match style yielded elegant, feminine looks including a patchwork silk crepe de chine shirt worn with a flared midiskirt in lightweight wool. Flowers abounded, interwoven with a signature house paisley on a silk Georgette gown with a plunging V-neck and a sequined grosgrain detail at the waist, and worked into an exquisite intarsia on a cashmere and cotton sweater. As an antidote to the patterns, a sophisticated, turquoise crepe de chine long-sleeve dress demonstrated that Etro has more to offer than prints.
 

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Public School Pre-Fall 2016

DUBAI — Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of Public School took their pre-fall show to Dubai, showing Monday night in a specially constructed space at the Dubai Design District with a view of the world’s tallest building.
 
The designers described the collection as a contrast between technology and nature. “It’s about where they meet and the idea of permanence in nature giving way to this fleeting platform of new ideas and the constant demand for newness,” said Chow. “It’s an interesting contrast that we played with, especially to do this here in Dubai which is essentially a new city just plopped in the middle of the desert.”
 
The natural elements in the collection included Japanese Shibori print jackets with ethnic-inspired necklines. “We used the idea of traditional indigo dyeing, but playing with it in our way, mixing with sports tailoring. The jackets were contrasted with sports stripes hanging from the arm,” said Osborne.
 
The collection also brought mesh to the top layer of pieces, using a two-tone mesh fabric of navy and white, creating a 3-D effect when layered over the Shibori print. “We’ve always had it as an underpinning of mesh in our collections, but using it this way was a way

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Jonathan Saunders Pre-Fall 2015

Jonathan Saunders Pre-Fall 2015

The designer played with a palette of unexpected combinations for pre-fall

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Lemaire Pre-Fall 2015

Lemaire Pre-Fall 2015

Designers Sarah-Linh Tran and Christophe Lemaire seem prepared to write a successful next chapter to their business with the pre-fall collection.

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Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2015

Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2015

Nicolas Ghesquière continued to work a Seventies vibe for the season.

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Pre-Fall 2015 Trend: Biker is the New Black

Adam Lippes Pre-Fall 2015

Chicer than classic biker gear, pre-fall’s take on black-leather classics ranged from discreet to rock ’n’ roll.

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WWD Fashion Headlines
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Get All the Details on Dior’s Electric Eye From the Pre-Fall Runway

See Dior’s graphic eye makeup look from the Pre-Fall show in Tokyo, and find out how to make it more wearable for everyday.
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