Fabiana Filippi RTW Spring 2019

Fabiana Filippi took its spring collection on a trip to Île Sainte-Marie, off the Madagascar coasts, and drew inspiration from the resort location’s natural tones of anthracite, turquoise and plum. The lineup emphasized natural fabrics, such as crisp linen for a range of skirts with handkerchief hems, and more technical materials including a nylon blend for Windbreakers, in case of a summer tropical storm.
A shimmering gray kimono-style blazer, cinched at the waist, was paired with a roomy asymmetrical skirt and with an overcoat for a look that exuded a sense of discreet, luxurious minimalism. In keeping with its signature aesthetic, the collection, designed by a team, provided the right wardrobe for a trip to Africa without giving up elegance and comfort.

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Top Trends From the Spring 2019 New York Trade Shows

A look at the standout trends from Coterie, Capsule, Cabana and Woman.

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No. 21 RTW Spring 2019

Maintaining separate personalities when designing two lines is never an easy feat. This season, Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s Rochas girl spilled over into his collection for No. 21. “It’s the erotic side of the bourgeoisie,” he said of his ladylike outfits with a whiff of “Belle de Jour.”
He opened with an all-black sequence of decorous staples done in glossy fabrics that gave them an off-kilter edge. Glazed chiffon lent a bin-liner sheen to a Forties-style button-up blouse, while a pencil skirt in faux patent ostrich leather shimmered like an oil slick.
A plain vest and skirt, meanwhile, were layered with a thick rhinestone chain that suggested the outline of a T-shirt, in a use of negative space with fetishistic overtones. Dell’Acqua dialed back his signature masculine tailoring, save for the boxy outerwear rendered in sculptural fabrics like a soft nude Neoprene.
“Some of them zip open to reveal a glimpse of bare back, and the shoes are very sexy,” he said backstage, pointing to the barely there sandals with transparent straps.
The designer kept embellishment to a minimum — a quartet of dresses trimmed in showy ostrich feathers, and a bugle-beaded slipdress that was a walking sparkle filter — and instead used couture-inspired volumes for

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Aspinal of London Releases Spring Lineup and Giles Deacon Capsule  

DOUBLE TAKE: Aspinal of London unveiled its spring collection alongside a 25-piece capsule in collaboration with Giles Deacon, consisting of the brand’s top handbag and accessories sellers.
The Regent Street flagship came alive with Deacon’s hand-drawn illustrations, depicting the women of Aspinal seen through his eyes, and these were blown up as giant cardboard cutouts and plastered across the shop floor.
The colorful print was adorned on the brand’s mini Trunk bag, the Regent tote bag and the Micro Lottie style, while the best-selling Hepburn bag featured a single girl embossed on the front.
These Aspinal ladies consisted of an international cast, “yet still very quintessentially English,” but with a more global appeal, highlighting the brand’s overseas expansion plans in the Middle East and China.
“Giles didn’t want to reinvent the wheel in terms of product, so there are no new bag styles and he chose the ones most synonymous to the brand,” a spokeswoman said.
These handbags lined the walls of the store and were perched on display tables while scarves embellished with the print hung off display bars or sat neatly folded in drawers.
Further down into the heart of the store, the new handbag collection influenced by ballerinas was on show. The Trunk,

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Amanda Wakeley RTW Spring 2019

Amanda Wakeley journeyed deeper into North Africa with this collection of safari suits and breezy dresses with patterns inspired by vintage ocelot prints, painted tiles and tapestries. During a walk-through at her flagship and showroom on Albemarle Street, Wakeley said she’s treating the seasons as a continuum and a series of layers, with themes that develop over the months and regular drops throughout the year.
This spring outing was packed with lots of snappy tailoring, including an olive safari suit and stone-colored suede safari jacket, which Wakeley paired with a long black belt. The ocelot pattern worked its way onto lightweight kimono tops and maxiskirts, while a long, kimono-style dress had long fringes on the hem. Languid jackets and wide-leg trousers came in olive or creamy satin.
Wakeley also showed off a new collection of sunglasses, jewelry and bags made from sheared kangaroo. She has been increasingly reaching out to her consumers, with lucrative QVC appearances and trunk shows at the store. She’s also planning a six-month pop-up at Bicester Village outside London.

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David Koma RTW Spring 2019

David Koma has been obsessed with Pedro Almodóvar’s films for a very long time. “All About My Mother” was the inspiration behind his very first collection — at age 14. For this season, he rewatched “Talk To Her” and “Volver” and was moved to explore Spanish dance, specifically the dynamic flamenco, as the starting point for his spring offering.
Koma put his own, minimal, all-out sexy spin on the drama, ruffled skirts and polka dots associated with the dance, refining ruffles into structural peplums and translating dots into sheer spot mesh or shimmery plexi embellishments, which winked along the edges of shoulder seams, cutouts and hemlines.
Carmen Amaya, the late Romani flamenco dancer who would wear trousers in her performances to emphasize movement, was the inspiration behind the lineup’s terrific trousers. Also calling to mind styles worn by matadors, they were cut high on the waist, with a soft flare created by split hems.
His palette, as always, was on the noir side, freshened by white and lilac. Pieces in neon yellow or bright green looked better head-to-toe rather than paired with or trimmed in black, which made those looks seem a bit labored.
Unusually for such a specific reference, the best looks here

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Fashion East RTW Spring 2019

Charlotte Knowles, Yuhan Wang and Asai’s A Sai Ta served up a combination of experimental and tongue-in-cheek designs at the Fashion East showcase, where utilitarian silhouettes, string bikinis and girly details poked fun at stereotypical female codes.
Knowles opened the show with a red corseted number that had a halter-neck bikini attachment, which laid out the foundation to her spring collection. A sea-lion printed dress, which looked like it was made out of bikinis, fitted leggings and Lycra shorts with leg ties all riffed off the two-piece swimwear. These hyper-feminine pieces were contrasted with trashy chic low-rise jeans and a fitted military jacket.
Wang’s portrait of a woman was soft, delicate yet slightly run down. Silk and printed jersey dresses were loosely bunched and gathered at the sides and these flounced gently down the runway. While these styles were dreamy, they also looked like ensembles made for women of the night. Dresses were cut out at the hip and slashed around the legs and their gloved hands fell drearily to the wayside.
Asai’s A Sai Ta took a welcome break from his usual fringed looks and introduced more tailored pieces, such as an oil slick coat and a wide utilitarian waist belt with flap

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Molly Goddard RTW Spring 2019

Molly Goddard has been thinking of ways to renew herself and experiment with fabrics and silhouettes, beyond her signature tulle creations.
For spring 2019, she turned to everyday fabrics like cotton-poplin and chiffon to create more easygoing, fuss-free pieces, from tailored trousers to loose tunics and trenchcoats.
Yet she also injected a healthy dose of the eccentricity and laissez fair attitude she’s known for: Myriad frills were added onto the hems of white cotton shirts or on the necks of bright polka-dot midi dresses; big plastic flower brooches were appliquéd onto blazers and loose floral dresses, while cabbages doubled as clutch bags.
There was also an array of desirable summer dresses that could easily slot into the wardrobes of any sunseeker with a flair for luxury and style — sequined mini numbers featuring polka-dot patterns in photogenic lilac and red shades, check tunics with charming broderie anglaise embroideries and open-back floral midi dresses — that had a nostalgic, vintage feel.
As she continues to evolve, Goddard succeeded in achieving a fine balance between the eccentric and the relatable, giving her audience enough new material to get excited about while staying true to her ethos of celebrating women and encouraging them to dress for themselves

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Matty Bovan RTW Spring 2019

Matty Bovan’s ladies don’t exactly travel light, what with their skyscraper hats made from pots and pans, kitchen utensils and feather dusters, and corset dresses made from crochet layers, big puffs of tulle and colored ribbons. Dressed in layered skirts bigger than Scarlett O’Hara’s, his models were two-legged carnival floats — albeit ones who accessorized with Coach bags.
Bovan said he took his inspiration from the Eighties filmmaker Derek Jarman and wanted to telegraph a message of “hyper nature.” He thought it would be fun to bombard people with texture in an age of mass information and overload. The dresses were a delight — if rough around the edges and utterly unwearable — with their crinolines, webs of flower crochet, string bikini tops, tangles of string and shiny foil fabrics.
The sleeves on bolero jackets were like giant cocoons that were dotted with what looked like bits of broken glass, tulle and string. Knits, meanwhile, came bright and tight and digitally patterned and layered, in chaotic mixes. The whole show was upbeat — and student-y — the sort of exuberant collection that London is known for, but which still needs some serious fine-tuning before it can go commercial.
Bovan is well on his

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Whit RTW Spring 2019

Designer Whitney Pozgay recently moved the company’s headquarters to Brooklyn where she can actually enjoy a garden. That green area served as inspiration for her colorful and breezy collection, which showed an appealing combination of simple, essential silhouettes matched with flamboyant prints.
Teaming with two different artists, she splashed floral patterns on airy and roomy sustainable cotton frocks, flared skirts and sundresses. Flowers were also embroidered on white-and-blue striped shirtdresses. For a more graphic appeal, irregular checks appeared on a front-buttoned long skirt matched with a coordinated crop top, while arty vertical stripes peppered a short-sleeve shirt tucked into short pants.
In keeping with the brand’s attention to sustainability, Whit collaborated with an independent mill for the organic silk crafted for chic and feminine polka-dot camisoles and fluid dresses.

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Maryam Nassir Zadeh RTW Spring 2019

Eclecticism was at the core of Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s spring collection. The athleticism was combined with the feminine via cycling shorts paired with a textured spaghetti-strap top, while a mannish vibe was introduced with a suit in a plaid pattern; its look softened by the gentle round collar; a bodysuit with matching corset layered under a trenchcoat exuded pure sensuality.
Flounced dresses and skirts had a vibrant, charming vibe and a minimal silk dress with a crisscross detail at the neckline embodied metropolitan elegance. An arty vibe was introduced via a ruffled top combining different silk patches and an intarsia knitted insert while a zebra-printed bikini closed the show on a wild note.

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Gabriela Hearst RTW Spring 2019

There were no distractions at Gabriela Hearst’s immaculate spring show (not counting the bountiful lunch buffet to the side, a happy pre- and postshow diversion). The white SoHo gallery was blank but for copper-wrapped columns. The looks were exactingly styled by Camilla Nickerson, who stripped away the superfluous so each garment, shoe, bag and, yes, fine jewelry — a new category launch — was crystal-clear, more so than ever.
Hearst is a perfectionist with the highest luxury standards, and the wherewithal and tenacity to achieve them. She makes it look easy, and perhaps that’s why her work is resonating. Though certainly rarefied, her collection is attainable, grounded in reality. The fine lines and restraint of her clothes belie the romantic, intellectual backstories and intensive fabric development that take the clothes from concept to commerce. Fueling spring’s minimalist femininity was the creative relationships between Maria Kodama and Jorge Luis Borges and Salvador and Gala Dalí, which she admires for their unconditional artist/muse devotion. “When you go on these creative journeys for a collection, there’s a lot of magic that happens,” explained Hearst during a preview. “It’s almost like invoking certain spirits.”
By her own admission, Hearst was moved to “feminine mode.” Suits done

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Every Outfit Kaia Gerber Has Worn During New York Fashion Week Spring 2019

ESC: NYFW Best Looks, Tom Ford, Kaia GerberKaia Gerber has transformed from a runway newbie to a top model at New York Fashion Week.
In comparison to some of her older peers, the 17-year-old star has risen to success quickly. It…

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Every Outfit Kaia Gerber Has Worn During New York Fashion Week Spring 2019

ESC: NYFW Best Looks, Tom Ford, Kaia GerberKaia Gerber has transformed from a runway newbie to a top model at New York Fashion Week.
In comparison to some of her older peers, the 17-year-old star has risen to success quickly. It…

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J. Mendel RTW Spring 2019

The famous gardens of Impressionist painter Claude Monet in Giverny were the inspiration for the fresh, charming color palette of Gilles Mendel’s elegant spring collection. The arty reference was combined with a late Seventies’ vibe, which resulted in a certain free-spirited yet always refined attitude injected in the lineup.
Fluid, flowy dresses were cut in a range of silhouettes, from long-sleeved styles embellished with precious textured embroideries, to plissé color-blocked V-neck frocks with pretty beaded decorations on the sleeves. to a range of covetable silk devoré styles with abstract motifs.
The designer put the focus on the bodice with flattering corset constructions, introducing a vein of polished sensuality with bustier frilled organza gowns and a draped column style revealing an exquisite floral decoration at the waist.
In keeping with the moody weather of the week, the spring lineup was rounded out with a range of outerwear options, including a more quotidian, sporty-chic bomber with a drawstring and exclusive astrakhan panels as well as luxurious mink short jackets and shawls to layer over the collection’s pretty dresses for an extra-luxurious touch.

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Brock Collection RTW Spring 2019

Breakfast at Le Coucou — a delightful way to start a Sunday morning, particularly so during the frenzy of New York Fashion Week. Laura Vassar and Kris Brock chose the restaurant, one of their favorites, as the venue for their spring Brock Collection show, imagining throughout the design process how the clothes would look in the setting.
The answer: Clothes and space looked made for each other, the undone gentility of the exposed brick walls reflecting the subtle touch of toughness beneath the collection’s prettiness. In their show notes, the designers said they had considered “this notion of raw American romance.” “We wanted it to be a breath of fresh air, and for [it to] feel alive and courageous,” Vassar said backstage post-show. “Reading about and looking at Georgia O’Keeffe’s work and how she approached it — expressing that [which] she couldn’t find words for, a feeling of wanting to do something vibrant and alive.”
For the Brock duo, vibrant and alive is synonymous with romantic and sexy-pretty. Here, they imbued their lingerie-derived signatures with a casual attitude in washed, rumpled fabrics. Wallpaper prints had a vintage feel while ikat patterns most specifically referenced O’Keeffe’s Southwest. The designers love a corset construction,

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Adeam RTW Spring 2019

By hosting her runway show at Chelsea’s legendary Tunnel nightclub, which closed its doors in 2001, Hanako Maeda wanted to highlight the inspiration behind her pretty collection.
The designer looked at the Nineties’ club scene in the U.S. and Japan, which not only influenced her choice of colors and materials, including PVC and bold tones juxtaposed with nocturnal hues, but also resulted in a certain experimental vibe. There was nothing too rebellious about the collection, but there certainly was a creative edge mixed with charming sophistication. For example, bright orange PVC was crafted into a corset belt layered over an elegant off-the-shoulder frock with roomy sleeves, and into a polished trenchcoat worn with a nylon bow blouse tucked into a belted trouser skirt.
A Nineties’ vibe resonated not only in the yellow tartan crafted for a tailored trenchcoat and a chic double-breasted blazer cut longer in the back that was inspired by the uber-recognizable plaid suit worn by Alicia Silverstone in the iconic 1995 movie “Clueless” — one of Maeda’s favorite films — but also in the baby pink and indigo Japanese denim designs. Ranging from relaxed jackets and bootleg five-pockets to hyper-feminine bustier tops, they were embellished with sweet bows, a

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Kim Shui RTW Spring 2019

Kim Shui’s spring collection was an exploration of process — namely the creation of tie-dye, but also that of deconstruction and reconstruction. She sent down one twisted and manipulated look after the next, including shirting made to be worn askew, playful pants with various flyaway panels, and skin-baring dresses in polka dots and reworked cheongsam styles. She modernized traditional qipao dresses into skirts and structured bustiers to contrast the fluid unraveling of voluminous tops, signaling a blend of eastern tradition with western ideals of sexiness. Tie-dye pieces were standouts, especially those contrasted with a fluid skirt or cropped button down with trailing shirttail. Elsewhere, she displayed a confidently quirky hand with tailored looks, including a sleeveless suit cut on one side with leopard and the other with a muted green floral.

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New York Fashion Week Spring 2019: Best Looks From Celebrity Street Style

ESC: Priyanka Chopra, Street StyleGet ready to whip out your credit cards, because it’s time to shop!
While New York Fashion Week runways will make you drool with awing clothing, there’s a few reasons why you…

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New York Fashion Week Spring 2019: Best Looks From Celebrity Street Style

ESC: Priyanka Chopra, Street StyleGet ready to whip out your credit cards, because it’s time to shop!
While New York Fashion Week runways will make you drool with awing clothing, there’s a few reasons why you…

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VFiles RTW Spring 2019

VFiles is a brand whose core is to engage and bring spotlight to young talent — musicians, models, designers — and its spring 2019 show aimed to do it all. Sponsored by Sprite and set on the floor of Barclays Center, the brand opened up its spectacle to the public with 2,800 Eventbrite tickets up for grabs. Endearing for the VFiles community and fans, a bit daunting for those invited, but overall an event with fun, elaborate style.
Post DJ set from A-Trak and a short film by Hidji Films, the fashion began with recent Parsons grad Elena Velez’s “aftermath industries” collection. The devastation and demolition of World War II inspired Velez’s use of regulation fabrics of the time. Linens and cottons were fastened to the steel bustier bodices of coats and dresses while silky parachutes were transformed and wrapped into sheer garments.
In between a few too many #PassTheAux musical performance breaks, VFiles winners Marknull, Shuting Qui and Windowsen took the runway. Wei Wang and Tim Shi of Marknull, the Beijing-based duo behind Marknull, played a mix of layered sportswear, warped plaids and some great wavy denim, paired with mini trompe l’oeil cape bags with hanger handles and flip phones;

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Rachel Zoe RTW Spring 2019

It’s hard to believe that stylist and designer Rachel Zoe already has 31 ready-to-wear collections under her belt, but she found her formula early on — Seventies-inspired glam and California boho — and has stuck with it. She diverged just a bit toward voluminous romantic looks awash in pink for her spring 2019 offering, to great effect.
“I just all of a sudden got super feminine this season,” she said after her dinner presentation at the Hotel Bel-Air. “Something about feeling feminine but strong and being OK with that.” The blush tones have inspired many a designer each season, but Zoe has always been a strictly black, white and gold girl.
“Over the last year I started to love petal pink, blush, cranberry…and once I started, I couldn’t stop. It’s almost like the older you get, you just don’t sweat things the way you always have,” she said about breaking from her norm.
Most refreshing were the billowy silhouettes from gowns to jackets, bold sequined florals and a custom kiss print dress, but the new hues also served her classic flared pantsuits and flowy maxidresses well.
Her chic take on denim included a ruffly indigo silk gown and a two-piece set that included frayed

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Zac Posen Presents Spring — With a Little Help From Friends

Like lots of designers, Zac Posen wears many hats. In fact, he says it shakes out to 16 collections a year. He designs for Brooks Brothers; recently updated the uniforms at Delta Air Lines; released a cookbook; judges on “Project Runway,” and released a documentary. But it was his namesake label that started it all.
To present that collection for spring 2019, Posen is once again forgoing a traditional runway show — something he has done for several seasons — in favor of images and a film. The difference this season is that the film has a more narrative- and character-driven feeling. Gia Coppola shot the piece, with Maya Hawke as muse. To Posen, Hawke was more than just a subject — both she and Coppola are close personal friends, and Hawke, who was looped in and confirmed while he was still designing the collection, helped to influence his designs for the season. So spring 2019 was a family affair.
“The original Zac girl is a creative free spirit. When I think of my early muses, this collection has almost come full circle to that idea. It’s not grande dame, or overt glamour, there is a new side to it,” he says

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Men’s Spring 2019: Flying Colors

The men’s collections for spring skew young, vibrant — and very spiffy. A plethora of tailored elements mingle with explosive color and touches of Nineties raver.

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Top Men’s Trends for Spring 2019

First came dad sneakers — and now the so-uncool-they’re-cool jeans to match.

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Theory Men’s Spring 2019

Well-known for his take on creating timeless wardrobe pieces with a cool minimalistic twist, Theory’s Martin Andersson’s spring collection keeps building on the same principles it has for the few past seasons: mobility and innovation. 
“We asked ourselves, who is the Theory guy, and concluded that he’s into travel,” Andersson said at the brand’s spring presentation.
A capsule collection focusing on the idea of mobility and travel — packable seam-sealed blazers, travel Mac coats, water-resistant shirts and even a tracksuit — were all designed to be worn from the office straight to the airport.
Andersson has a knack for giving wardrobe staples a cool, minimalist élan via color and cut. His spring palette spanned forest greens, navy, khaki and bright pops of electric yellow and pink that were inspired from Dan Flavin’s light installations at Dia: Beacon.
A standout were the khaki pieces, such as khaki chinos with a contrast waistband paired with a bright pink sweater — a perfect blend of casual and sporty.

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Men’s Spring 2019 Trend: Get Smart

Dressing up again — in easy, laid-back tailoring — was a key message of the men’s shows, and a riposte to the streetwear juggernaut.

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Eidos Men’s Spring 2019

It’s a new day for Eidos.
The “younger cousin” of Italian luxury brand Isaia showcased its first full spring collection designed by Simon Spurr, who named creative director of the line last November, at an event at its Madison Square office Tuesday night. The lineup was called — appropriately — Contrast, which spoke to Spurr’s seamless integration of the company’s Neapolitan tailoring roots with what he described as “undertones of British punk.”
The English-born Spurr said, “Each season there will be a tailoring spine and then I’ll wrap something around the tailoring.”
This time around, that translated into Hawaiian-printed short-sleeve shirts, pink fringed suede jackets, indigo tie-dye jean jackets and Breton striped linen sweaters. Even the windowpane patterned suits were modernized. “We’ve done them in a younger way, printed them, they’re a little more graphic,” he said. Ditto for the silhouette, which was slim and youthful.
Isaia launched Eidos as a stand-alone brand in 2013, but Spurr’s addition has managed to elevate the label with an international point of view.

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Sundae School Men’s Spring 2019

What is smokewear? According to Dae Lim, who designs Sundae School, it’s a category of clothing that’s not confined to weed smokers but supportive of recreational weed smoking in subtle and overt ways.
Lim grew up in Seoul, where marijuana usage is still illegal, but came to the U.S. 11 years ago and was introduced to it as a teen. After studying math at Harvard, he joined McKinsey & Co. as a consultant but decided that wasn’t the environment for him and got a job at VFiles as the head of growth. He used his resources there to create Sundae School, which is a year old and started out with mostly graphic T-shirts and dad hats emblazoned with stoner puns. But for his spring 2019 collection, he expanded on his original proposition with a proper apparel collection that’s titled Ddul-Sunbi — ddul is a slang term teens in Korea use for weed and sunbi means scholar.
He imagined a world where scholars explored weed and collaborated with South Korean illustrator Yeonbun on a graphic depicting that scenario. He also looked to hanbok, traditional Korean dress, to present a neutral lineup of casual but refined clothing. Models wore mostly leisure suits that consisted of lightweight poly jackets with tie

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Gustav von Aschenbach Men’s Spring 2019

In its third season, Robert Geller’s Gustav von Aschenbach seems to be finally developing its own identity.
Although a younger and more fun offshoot of the designer’s main line, the collection still has Geller’s signature, with its traditional boxy silhouettes, washed cotton fabrics and saturated tones.
But G.V.A., as the line is now being called, has more of a streetwear edge. The use of logos, slogans and appliquéd photographs spoke to Geller’s love of Swiss graphic design and typography — as evidenced by the word Basel used on garments throughout.
“The G.V.A. kid is evolving into a young artist, who expresses himself through individualistic, self-confident clothes,” Geller said.
Some of this artistic expression shone through in a creative casting mix of models and New York street dancers that added a jolt of energy and fun to the show.
Among the highlights was an array of light outerwear, from trenchcoats and cropped field jackets to utility varsities. Embellished with the graphic details, these became one-of-a-kind pieces.
Geller’s ability to create a younger alter-ego allows him to channel trendier and more of-the-now pieces. But coupled with his more romantic and mature Robert Geller collection, these two sides of his personality seem perfectly aligned.

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Gucci to Show Spring 2019 Collection at Théâtre Le Palace in Paris

PALACE BOUND: Gucci revealed on Monday that its spring 2019 collection will be presented at Théâtre Le Palace in Paris on Sept. 24 at 9 p.m. The Italian fashion house said this is the first time the location will host a runway show.
Le Palace, located at 8 Rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, served for years as a nightclub, drawing members of the fashion and music industries as well as an underground culture.
“The Théâtre Le Palace resonates with the vision of the house as it is a venue that gave life to a (sub)culture that has inspired young generations up until today,” said a statement from Gucci.
This is a one-off show for Gucci in Paris and marks the crescendo of a three-part homage to France conceived by the Italian brand’s creative director, Alessandro Michele.
Gucci began its ode to France starting with its pre-fall advertising campaign, which harks back to that country circa 1968, when student marches and riots sparked popular rebellions against military and bureaucratic elites. Photographed and directed by Glen Luchford, it depicts Gucci-clad rebels occupying a university campus, passionately challenging the establishment and asking for change. Luchford’s black-and-white photos are inspired by the bold French Nouvelle Vague imagery of the late Fifties and Sixties and by radical filmmakers François

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Nick Graham Men’s Spring 2019

Nick Graham’s space odyssey continued for spring with a collection titled “1969.” He called it “one of the most transformational years in our history, a year that had both the first landing on the moon by Apollo 11 and also Woodstock, both of which were pretty transformative events in our culture.”
A rocket-shaped 1959 Cadillac Cyclone concept car — the only one made and dispatched from the company’s archives in Detroit — was parked on the runway and served as the perfect backdrop for the zesty show.
It opened with a troupe of boys dancing in “Martian in Training” T-shirts, followed by a parade of traditional sartorial clothing that was super fitted to the body with cropped blazers and tapered pants. Metallic bomber jackets with NASA logos set the tone for an array of intergalactic references that included alien faces printed on shirts and atomic symbols on the breast pockets of suit jackets.
In addition to the suits— which were offered in colorful, shiny solids and exaggerated men’s wear classic patterns — Graham introduced a lot more casualwear, including logo hoodies and sweat pants.
Although Graham’s obsession with space travel is nothing new, it continues to provide a fun story line and an uplifting

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Nihl Men’s Spring 2019

In his New York show, Neil Grotzinger of Nihl, the LVMH Prize finalist, broke traditional rules of masculinity with a collection that centered around bending the rules of those in authority.
He took police officers, football players and Wall Street brokers and turned their wardrobes on their head by “exploring the qualities of borderline ephemerality and downright queerness,” according to the liner notes.

A clear example was a pair of football pants made from fine white silk he paired with a handmade chain mail tank top. An authentic crinkled painter’s tarp — black on one side, green on the other with drawstrings included — was reinterpreted as pants and a top.

Grotzinger’s use of elaborate embroidery techniques appeared as embellishments on several pieces, including the sleeves of sheer tops and a sliced-open basketball short.

The use of revealing cutouts and jock straps throughout the collection added a level of eroticism while enhancing the masculinity of the offering.

“The concepts of masculinity can be very restrictive and I like to break the conformity of that,” Grotzinger said.

In this debut, Grotzinger gained a lot of attention by breaking the rules — in the right way.

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Jahnkoy Men’s Spring 2019

Maria Jahnkoy, whose real name is Maria Kazakova, is Siberian and studied at Central Saint Martins and Parsons, has received a lot of support from the industry with her brand narrative, which is centered on preserving traditional craftsmanship and reworking it for a new generation.
She was shortlisted for the 2017 LVMH Prize and has found fans in consultant Julie Gilhart and Bruce Pask, the men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. Kazakova also has the support of Puma, Swarovski and the CFDA’s Elaine Gold Launch Pad program.
Her goal has always been to connect larger companies with local artisans, but with the extra help she’s been able to expand on that and bring more makers from Brooklyn and India into the mix. The show, which was more like a theatrical art project, was a collective effort as well. Titled “Deceived: No More,” the performance explored how the fashion industry impacts cultural identity. The presentation, which was choreographed by Nathan Trice, was broken up into three parts: chaos, unification and order. Much like her previous presentations, she made the runway mimic a chaotic city street that was dotted with orange cones and caution signs — one read “Separation is No

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Abasi Rosborough Men’s Spring 2019

In their sophomore showing during New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough explored a desert phantom theme that referenced a variety of vanishing cultures and tribes.
The design duo paraded a diverse range, from kimono-inspired jackets and coats and fitted cargo pants to Navajo-printed parkas. The color palette included deep burgundies and burnt orange that brought an Eastern sensibility to the forefront, while a flowing white section telegraphed the desert inspiration. “We even looked at ‘Lawrence of Arabia,’” Rosborough noted.
A wrinkled cotton hybrid poncho with matching head scarf and an ethereal topcoat in the same fabric also drove the desert theme home. Likewise, a Tencel linen that was frayed to look old — employed for bomber jackets and coats — reinforced that worn-in traveler vibe.
With this effort, Abasi Rosborough continues to make its mark in men’s fashion. “We’ve seen an exodus of big designers this week, but we look at it as an opportunity for new designers to step forward,” Rosborough said.

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Robin Derrick Departs Spring Studios to Pursue Beauty Project

BEAUTY CALLING: The London-based creative Robin Derrick is departing Spring Studios as global executive director to move onto a new, unnamed project in the beauty arena.
Derrick worked at Spring in his global role for seven years, having joined in 2011 from Condé Nast where he’d spent 20 years as creative director of British Vogue.
During his tenure at Spring, Derrick was the creative lead of the company during a growth period. Spring opened in New York in 2013 and Milan in 2016.
While at Spring, Derrick had been developing his own brand and business projects. “Robin is now leaving to devote his time to those projects. We take this opportunity to wish him well for the future and thank him for his years of service to Spring,” the company said Wednesday.
Derrick said he learned “invaluable lessons from both the incredible staff and inspirational clients. I am grateful for an extraordinary opportunity to help build a next-generation communication company and I look forward to watching Spring grow in the future.”
It is understood that Derrick’s next project will be in beauty, although a spokesperson for Spring said it was still confidential and declined to give any details.
Derrick is married to Lisa Eldridge, the celebrity makeup artist and author who also has a successful

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Head of State Men’s Spring 2019

For his first runway show, Nigerian-born designer Taofeek Abijako, took inspiration from Afrofuturism and paraded a lineup with a distinct Seventies feel. 
Cue an array of high-waisted cropped and flared pants, fitted sweatshirts and message T-shirts.
The standouts were the flared pants, worn with matching boots, which gave it a New York Seventies vibe. 
Head of State is now part of Groupe, a distribution umbrella formed by James and Gwendolyn Jurney of Seize sur Vingt, which manages and nurtures independent designers and brands. Abijako was the first brand chosen, allowing him to focus strictly on creating the collection while Groupe provides the funding for samples and production.     

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Bode Men’s Spring 2019

Aaron Aujla, owner of Green River Project, a furniture and interiors firm, was Emily Bode’s primary reference point this season. She met Aujla in New York and they’ve previously worked together on other projects. (He’s created all of the furniture for Bode’s presentations.)
For her collection, Bode drew from Aujla’s lineage. His family is from India, but he grew up in British Columbia. Bode has always outsourced her embroidery and embellishment work in India, but this season she worked with more Indian textiles that had historical significance. She made suits from Khadi towels, an Indian fabric and developed another suit from India’s government subsidized mill prints.
Bode said the Khadi fabric has a connection to Mahatma Gandhi’s self-reliance movement, which urged Indians to bring weaving back into the home as opposed to buying these goods from other countries.
Highlights included a white fringed button-up shirt made of chenille, a pair of floral print high-waisted pants constructed from curtain fabric, and a bright yellow matching set printed with a village motif that consisted of a crepe de chine shirt and duchesse-satin pants.
The furniture was influenced by Indian filmmaker Satyajit Ray’s 1966 “Nayak,” which was filmed on a train, and each of the pieces were

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Ricardo Seco Men’s Spring 2019

The 50th anniversary of the Mexico City Olympics served as the jumping off point for Ricardo Seco’s spring men’s collection.

The designer used stripes and optical illusions along with the late Sixties font and Olympics rings to pay homage to the 1968 Games. These graphics showed up in bombers, T-shirts and track pants that Seco reimagined in bright colors or vibrant black and white.

More contemporary visual elements such as cell phones and skates were used as accents inside jackets while the current immigration crisis was referenced by large DACA lettering on T-shirts and socks. Seco also went back to the beginning of the Black Power movement by using the now-famous fist symbol on tops.

The overall vibe of the collection felt upbeat despite the political references.

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Reconstruct Collective Men’s Spring 2019

Reconstruct Collective, consisting of five female designers, began out of necessity. After learning that the Willem de Kooning Academy wasn’t able to put on a fashion show for its graduating class, students banded together to organize their own show. And in order to raise money for the show, they needed to form a business with the chamber of commerce. Because they worked so well together, Laura Aanen, Alyssa Groeneveld, Kim Kivits, Michelle Lievaart and Sanne Verkleij decided to start a collective shortly after graduating. Now three collections in, the Amsterdam-based company opted to show in New York, which Groeneveld said made sense for the brand, which caters to the youth.
For spring the unisex line was based on a fictional place called Planet Re-4 and the fictional characters that live there. The lineup, which Groeneveld said falls between streetwear and couture, was made up of reconstructions of sporty pieces. They presented cropped bubble vests and matching miniskirts, wide-leg nylon pants decorated with multiple drawstrings or reflective material, cropped tank tops with the Re-4 logo and jackets made from strips of fabric. The waistbands displayed a graphic Reconstruct logo. They also reconfigured Converse tracksuits and pieces from The New Originals, an Amsterdam-based

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Public School Men’s Spring 2019

Call it Public School part two.
On the final night of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, the streetwear-skewed brand held a party and presentation at a space on Howard Street in Chinatown with its theme kept under wraps until the doors opened.
“This is our space,” said Dao-Yi Chow, who designs the label with Maxwell Osborne. “This will be our first retail store and this is a soft launch of the space.”
Throughout the location were mannequins dressed in the new collection — although Chow said the description “needs an asterisk by ‘new.’ Everything is recycled, upcycled or dead stock,” he said, and is intended to represent our new philosophy.”
While the philosophy may be new, the lineup revisited the duo’s greatest hits.
They revisited collaborations with like-minded brands including Eileen Fisher, whose dead-stock silks became striped pajama-inspired ensembles; Levi’s, whose vintage denim was reworked into cropped trucker jackets, and Alpha Industries military fabrics made into sleek outerwear.
“It’s very much the foundation and our past and then looking into the future,” Osborne added.
The collection reflected that with a clear example being a supersharp black suit with built-in cargo pockets and statement zippers. A short-sleeve jumpsuit — also part of their DNA — was so elegant

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Todd Snyder Men’s Spring 2019

Todd Snyder closed New York Fashion Week: Men’s on a high note, sending out a feel-good collection full of bright colors and a youthful attitude that he titled “The American Tourist.”
“I played a lot with a mix of sartorial and campy references,” he said backstage before the show, where truffle popcorn and beer was served.
The opening look set the tone for the collection: a yellow T-shirt with a photo of a Waffle House that was taken by folk rocker Gerry Beckley of the group America. A series, all shot by the musician, are to make their debut for spring.
Snyder, the king of collaborations, unveiled other partnerships at the show including a line of terry-cloth bucket hats with Kangol, high-top tie-dye sneakers with Novesta, and perhaps the most striking, archival Hawaiian prints from Reyn Spooner that he used most successfully on an updated suit. “It’s the modern leisure suit,” he said.
His longtime partnership with Champion was also on display in bomber jackets, paneled sweatshirts and underwear. It even appeared as a side stripe on a plaid patterned suit.
Another play on the Americana theme came with the introduction of a new logo — “Snyder’s” in retro block letters — that he used

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Romeo Hunte Men’s Spring 2019

Romeo Hunte didn’t make any friends in his men’s runway debut in New York. His choice of a site away from the other venues and the complete chaos in the lobby of the Dream Downtown Hotel with hundreds of people attempting to access elevators to get to the rooftop site was bad enough. The fact that his team couldn’t get its act together to start his show until nearly an hour after it was planned had everyone eyeing the exits before the first look came out.
Once the show finally started, it was clear that Hunte had an underwater sports adventure as his overriding theme. He used neoprene from diving wetsuits that he reimagined as performance vests in bright colors and cropped jackets with exaggerated necklines.

Camo prints in cargo pants and bombers and the use of safety orange enhanced the streetwear flair. But while the line showed some promise, there were several missteps, including poorly executed tailoring and some unfortunate sequined embellished sweatshirts. But apart from that, the collection was youthful and carefree.

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Death to Tennis Men’s Spring 2019

Summertime was the prevailing theme for William Watson and Vincent Oshin, the duo behind Death to Tennis. The designers, who are both British, were feeling nostalgic and a bit homesick so they looked to old beachside photographs to inform their lineup, which they said is one of their most colorful collections to date.
They leaned into the old and new, utilizing a color palette consisting of royal blue, purple, yellow, olive red and navy that brought to mind Ralph Lauren and Cross Colours from the Nineties.
These colors lent new life to core items such as graphic T-shirts, hoodies and the McCarthy jacket, which Justin Bieber popularized. They showed these signatures alongside cargo pants with minimal pockets, boxy button-up shirts, cotton parkas and shirt jackets. A long, hooded, colorblocked parka that grazed the ground was a standout.
The suit or matching set was another primary component. Models wore tracksuits, relaxed cotton suits and boxy shirts styled with slightly baggy pants. It was a nice take on tailored pieces that felt hip but not too trendy.
Death to Tennis is known for its original prints and this season it presented a camo pattern, a polo motif and a paint-splattered print.
Last season, the brand put on a

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Kenneth Nicholson Men’s Spring 2019

Kenneth Nicholson pulls from a varied bag of interests. The Houston native is as motivated by 18th-century dress as he is by outfits from “Soul Train” and military uniforms — after attending the Academy of Art in San Francisco, Nicholson spent a one-year stint in the Navy before he was honorably discharged. But his overall interest is in expanding the boundaries of men’s wear.
“Historically, men haven’t been restricted to just a shirt and pants. They’ve had more options,” Nicholson said. “I like to edify people and shake things up.”
He divided his collection into three chapters. The first chapter was a stark white, which Nicholson said was void of color to express sadness. Models wore cotton and linen long-sleeved shirtdresses with subtle swing hems, white lace shirts paired with cream high-waisted pants, and a brocade jacket with an exaggerated lapel coupled with a matching skirt. References to royalty were sprinkled throughout the lineup. Some models wore sashes, others wore crowns and a couple of the more structured, beaded looks with mock necks, nipped waists and peplums, which were highlights from the collection, brought to mind regalness.
The second chapter, which signaled better memories and featured more color, was the strongest. Nicholson doubled

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N. Hoolywood Men’s Spring 2019

This season, the N. Hoolywood designer Daisuke Obana delivered a lineup inspired by Native American artist T.C. Cannon, whose work he discovered during a recent trip to Arizona.
“The lines and the bold colors in the artist’s paintings were what drew me to them,” he said backstage, pointing to an array of blanket-like pieces, often paired with matching oversize shorts. This graphic inspiration was seen in everything from cropped bomber jackets and knitwear with fringe across the chest to oversize pants.
An added surprise was Obana’s collaboration with sportswear brand Umbro. It spanned logo T-shirts, long-sleeved soccer jerseys and elongated coats adorned with oversize Umbro logos done up in bright colors with vertical lines that tied back to Cannon’s paintings.
With their mix of deconstruction and surprising proportions, Obana’s Japanese silhouettes seamlessly blended the worlds of artisanal and active sport.

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Parke & Ronen Men’s Spring 2019

Leave it to Parke & Ronen to transport tired, hot New Yorkers to a beach in Malibu on a Tuesday afternoon in July.
“It’s all about L.A., baby,” said codesigner Parke Lutter backstage before the show.
He and Ronen Jehezkel trotted out a lovely array of pastel colors, floral prints and retro graphic stripes on swimwear, coverups and short-sleeve sweaters.
“We threw in a little Eighties vibe — we were listening to the Go-Go’s,” Lutter said, adding that the silhouette this season was classic but modernized with a little higher waist and more of a boxy feel.
The sheer shirts and pajama sets spoke of the leisurely lifestyle while the sleeveless hooded sweatshirts pushed a more athletic vibe.
With a soundtrack that included Lady Gaga’s “Boys, Boys, Boys” and Rod Stewart’s “Do You Think I’m Sexy,” Parke & Ronen proved that even after 21 years, they can still get a crowd energized while building on a successful business.

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Wood House Army Men’s Spring 2019

Since starting his brand two years ago, Julian Woodhouse, a former first lieutenant in the U.S. Army, and husband and codesigner Kirill Kabachenko have sought to create a uniform for their fashion army each season. This time around, the uniform was a mixture of Eighties BMX suits as well as a more-ethereal feel inspired by the rebirth of a phoenix.
The duo had spent two months in Asia and Woodhouse said the vision for the season came to him during a meditation.
The use of silk — a first for the brand — in airy parkas and ultralight cargo pants helped add a spiritual side to the collection while the motor racing references gave the lineup a tough edge.
The color palette of oranges and burnt reds together with the painterly phoenix print also combined to give an Eastern feel.
For its runway debut, Wood House Army’s mix of spirituality, athleticism and street edge proved to be a successful formula.

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Feng Chen Wang Men’s Spring 2019

Feng Chen Wang thought about the word “half” and what it means for human connection.
The show started with an opening of the curtains, which streamed sunlight into the dark space and emphasized the collection’s vivid color palette, which Wang said was meant to convey a range of human emotions.
The opening looks came in an icy blue gradient — sad — and progressed into an iridescent green and a warm hot pink — happy. Things ended with shades of black and gray, which Wang said played on black and white and the idea of half, or yin and yang.
The garments were amalgamations of sportswear basics. Wang placed double collars on long trenchcoats and pieced together two Levi’s jackets to make one. She did the same thing with Converse sneakers by adding an extra sole and merging two sneaker halves together. An extra leg was added to jeans and the more dramatic pieces consisted of collared shirts and trenchcoats that were draped on top of each other and fell down to the floor.
Some of these pieces revealed the heart, another means to depict feelings. Wang discovered that different sentiments lead to different body temperatures and she presented PVC pieces to highlight the

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Dyne Men’s Spring 2019

Christopher Bevans has become skillful at morphing super high-tech fabrics and performance designs with fashion silhouettes that reflect today’s trends. And that was especially evident in his spring presentation for Dyne, which he titled “Future Nomad.”
“We’re bringing our love of the outdoors in the Pacific Northwest to the city we grew up in,” said the New York-born designer.

His lineup included a hybrid trenchcoat/anorak with side zippers that looked light as a feather yet had all the necessary performance elements.

Other standouts included an ultralight navy suit with micro-cargo pockets on the sleeves that doubled as an embellishment.

“It’s all about survival skills,” he said.

The use of tie-dye — this season’s omnipresent print — in technical fabrics complemented the painterly abstract print used in paneling strips.

Bevans also stood out from others this season by embedding his well-known near-field communication chip into the garments and allowing the invited show guests to place orders on the spot for pieces from the spring line. “You can get it in four weeks,” he said, before he ships to retail stores in January.

With American fashion’s propensity for performance athleticism, Bevans has been able to find the sweet spot between that and contemporary fashion.

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Hugo Spring 2019

It’s always big news in Berlin when Hugo Boss decides to stage an event in the German capital during Fashion Week. Yet the decision to return with Hugo after a hiatus of seven years was primarily driven by the city itself. Not only was Berlin’s techno culture and “creative energy and eclectic street style” a key influence for the collection this season, but “with its very unique mix of fashion, art, music, literature and tech, it’s a good eco-system to take a brand like Hugo to the next level,” Boss chief executive officer Mark Langer told WWD prior to the show.
And what better place to do that than in the original home of techno, Motorwork, a gargantuan industrial space that Hugo transformed into a dark and gritty Nineties rave environment. The decade also figured strongly in the men’s and women’s looks on the runway, especially in terms of the prints based on ripped and collaged Rave posters or period album artwork, and the oversized, wide-shouldered, tailored silhouette for both genders derived from a Nineties Boss archive piece. However, that jacket and coat silhouette and baggy tailored pants were customized with DIY flair. Drawstrings were used to create new volumes and

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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Dior Moves Spring Show a Day Ahead

EARLY BIRDS: Christian Dior, typically the first big name to open Paris Fashion Week in recent years, has moved its show ahead one day, to Sept. 24, safeguarding that distinction.
The venue and time have yet to be finalized, but it is likely to be in the early afternoon. The Paris shows go through Oct. 2.
Gucci had previously revealed that it would do a one-off showing in Paris on the evening of Sept. 24. The event is to mark the crescendo of a three-part homage to France conceived by the Italian brand’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, who paraded his resort collection in Arles. Gucci began its ode to France starting with its pre-fall advertising campaign, which harks back to that country circa 1968, when student marches and riots sparked popular rebellions against military and bureaucratic elites.
While foregoing a show in Milan for the season, Gucci is planning a special event to be held at its Hub venue on Sept. 19, the second day of Milan Women’s Fashion Week, scheduled to run Sept. 18 to 24.

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Dundas RTW Spring 2019

“Urban, funky, jungle chic,” said Peter Dundas, who for spring combined dressy pieces with sporty fare, such as cropped hoodies bearing the brand’s black panther logo, or T-shirts.
The mood was full-on Eighties, from the Debbie Harry-inspired fringed biker jackets with zebra lapels to the bold-shouldered minidresses in a mix of animal prints, including a sequin camo mixed with black lace in a panther motif. Not forgetting a whole lotta gold.
The main silhouette was short, sexy and embellished with a couture feel that at times veered into outre territory. The faulty footwear — punky, strappy animal-print sandals inspired by a photo Dundas saw of Siouxsie Sioux — was distracting, with some of the models hobbling along the runway. (Granted, the label is still very young, with limited budgets, but bare feet would have worked better.)
Dévoré velvet, jacquard treatments and flocking were used to create the effect of a second layer on some of the dresses. “Like with the panther: when you look closer, it has spots,” Dundas explained.
There were some fun ideas, like the asymmetric, hot-hued satin dresses accessorized with black lace shorts and cropped asymmetric tops. A minidress in a blend of pink fringe and silver embroidery was also cute.
Sex

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Ludovic de Saint Sernin Men’s Spring 2019

Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s spring collection, the third for his label, was called “Summertime Sadness,” meant to evoke a teen’s melancholy upon leaving a beautiful holiday with an unrequited crush.
The sensual, tight lineup of well-crafted androgynous silhouettes was made of fabrics the designer sourced in Japan. Highlights included a cropped light blue denim jacket with matching low-slung lace-up jeans, a coral-color fluid blouse and trousers, and a black strapless top with languid pants.
De Saint Sernin riffed on his best-selling eyelet briefs for a bralette, and accessorized the line with ceramic charms.
“Most of the collection sells to women,” said the designer, who was a finalist for this year’s LVMH Prize. “I was very niche, this young designer starting out in Paris. And it just put a light on me that was very amazing. I’m super grateful.”
There’s little doubt that the spotlight will keep intensifying.

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Kenzo Men’s Spring 2019

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have turned their performance presentations for Kenzo into something of a tradition. Their coed spring show was no exception, with floral suspensions, a brass band and a laser light show transforming the basement of the Maison de la Mutualité conference center into a magic grotto.
Unfortunately, the clothes they showed didn’t live up to the setting. The brand’s aesthetic, once synonymous with jungle prints and Asian references, has skewed increasingly eclectic of late, with kitschy cool designs that reference the designers’ Californian upbringing.
This lineup was ostensibly informed by summer ceremonies: “gatherings of all sorts and the jubilation of rituals, occasions where New-Romantic hedonists meet British wedding goers and all the in-betweens,” the duo said in their show notes.
Perhaps it was the time slot — the last show on the last day of a marathon men’s fashion week in Paris — but it was hard to pinpoint even a trace of that theme, except for the graphic rose pattern that was a recurrent motif.
Rather, the men’s lineup revolved around a sporty silhouette grounded in acid-bright colors and oversized volumes. A vibrant blue suit with extra-large drawstring pants was paired with a trompe-l’oeil T-shirt depicting an open shirt

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Clot Men’s Spring 2019

Clot pulled the cool crowd – the likes of Don Crawley, Sacai’s Chitose Abe and Francesco Ragazzi from Palm Angels – for its latest Paris presentation in the city’s Marais district.  The design duo installed a series of makeshift stands and food stalls to approximate the atmosphere of the iconic Temple and Market streets in Hong Kong’s Kowloon district.
Edison Chen said he and his partner Kevin Poon are scouting a permanent retail space in Paris. “Our L.A. store is opening in two weeks and then we have Paris, Tokyo, New York and San Francisco,” he said.
The Hong Kong-based streetwear label, which this year is celebrating its 15th anniversary, presented updates on its “bread and butter” – silk pajamas in their own prints. “Obviously, we’re Chinese, so the DNA of us is wearing stuff like this,” said Chen.
Also on display was their new T-shirt collection with reworked Asian icons and graphics including a “mind, body and soul” print; travel bags designed in collaboration with Readymade; and a capsule of pieces in custom-made fabrics including military-inspired jackets in a mix of camo and stripes.
Clot also presented a capsule by Pauly Bonomelli, the Australian artist who rose to fashion fame making custom clothing

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Ann Demeulemeester Men’s Spring 2019

A romantic vibe infused this full-on coed, gender-bending collection filled with loose garments, black flowers and veiled straw hats. It also juxtaposed fabrics, such as silk, lace, linen and leather in breezy silhouettes, and injected hues like pink into Ann Demeulemeester’s traditionally black-and-white color code.
The brand’s creative director Sébastien Munier said he had in mind symbolism, which was birthed in the 19th century when artists pushed back against the industrial revolution.
“Some dreamers, like poets, wanted to express a certain beauty, a certain decadence,” he said, citing in particular the French painter Odilon Redon, whose work was filled with symbolism, and the main character in Joris-Karl Huysmans’ book “À rebours” — a reclusive aesthete and antihero.
It was this extreme idea of beauty that Munier wanted to channel, and it entailed contrasts. Of the spring collection he said: “It is a mix of poor fabric and very rich fabric, and there is a kind of clash in between.” Take for instance the loose white shirt overlayed with a black lace top.
Striped silk, generally used for linings, peaked out from trouser legs or became the main fabric of suiting and shorts, for an inside-out effect.
Genders fused, as a male model sported a knee-length pink

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Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Spring 2019

Boris Bidjan Saberi brushed away the superfluous with his spring collection, training his sights — and design skills — on clothing in its purest forms. With achromatopsia in mind, an unpronounceable term for colorblindness, he worked a palette reduced to tones of grays, blacks and whites. The setting? A raw cement venue. In this pared-down universe, Bidjan Saberi showed what he could do — an awful lot.
Starting with the simplest silhouette, the first look was, in his words, “just a shirt with a back seam, that’s it, just the width of the fabric.” Two long streams of matte, black ribbon — he called it tape — trailed behind. This was what he used to cover seams.
Black coats were outlined by this seam-covering fabric tape, adding a new dimension as well as the optical illusion of something like leather panels. Sleeves were slit open and left to hang over the arms, for a cape-like effect — very cool. Shirts were long, almost becoming dresses, while pants were often short. A long, chunky knit sweater — though less chunky than in springs past — stretched below the knees.
He introduced a new accessory — not a backpack, because it could be worn in

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Walter Van Beirendonck Men’s Spring 2019

Walter Van Beirendonck titled his quirky collection for spring Wild Is the Wind, and wild it was — with skeleton, donkey and bird prints, V signs for peace, clogs and slogans like “Trans Human,” “Hell to the Liars” and “Riot!” Often a man with a message, many of the Belgian designer’s trademarks popped up again this season.
Deconstruction, for instance, abounded, starting with the first look that included a skimpy vest made of lemon-yellow webbing and patches. One featured an imaginary polka-dotted creature with the words “loving the alien” and another read: “It’s only a story/it’s not real/don’t Worry/there IS a happy ENDING.”
The webbing, bringing to mind fetishism, workmen’s garb and streetwear, decorated many garments. And often that was blended with more sartorial elements. Take, for example, the checkered suit featuring orange webbing.
In hallmark Van Beirendonck style, every piece was finely crafted, with standouts including outerwear, such as raincoats, suit jackets and bombers. Sometimes, though, the riot of prints, patterns and colorblocking stole the show.

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Spirit Animals Converge at Valentino Spring 2019 Men’s Show

ANIMAL MAGNETISM: Valentino’s front row was a veritable jungle, crawling with animals in body — and in spirit. Pierpaolo Piccioli asked four famous friends of the house — A$ AP Ferg, Nas, Keith Ape and Syd tha Kyd — to reveal their spirit animal, and he used the beasts as motifs on clothing and accessories in the patterned, logo-ed and color-packed men’s collection.
“My spirit is the black panther — a strong, fast, powerful animal,” said A$ AP Ferg, who certainly stood out in the crowd on Wednesday afternoon. He was wearing a canary yellow suit and bedecked in diamonds from his front teeth down to his wrists and fingers.
“I change them every time I change my outfits,” said the musician of the sparkling crowns on his teeth. “They’re white gold with diamonds. I was going to go for yellow gold, to match my outfit, but then decided against it.”
He said he’s been working with Tiffany & Co. on jewelry, such as pendants and bracelets, and is also getting to work on a new album with a “huge producer, who the world loves,” although he wouldn’t give up the name.
“I’m a lion, I rule the jungle,” said fellow front-row guest Nas, who has

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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Dondup Men’s Spring 2019

Urban trekking was the theme at Dondup, as the design team added a utilitarian twist to men’s citywear clothing, experimenting with materials in a shift from technical performance for a collection that was casual with a touch of sportswear. One example was the checked, boxy field jacket with a glass-like coating, which added brilliancy to the colors. The poplin, deconstructed suit was paired with a hooded shirt in chambray, in a nod to ath-leisure.
Dondup reedited its storied Tyvek material from the Fifties with an iridescent effect and a laminated texture used on a raincoat and a maxi fanny pack. Sweatshirts were treated to have a spongy effect and a leather jacket was in Naplak, a lacquered napa generally used in footwear. Colors ranged from royal blue to lime, as well as earthy tones and black.
Denim was done in classic shapes in pure vintage and black, or with chalk coatings. The material used for denim labels, called Jacron, was employed in garment-dyed accessories, such as the green backpack.

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Prada Men’s Spring 2019

Prada’s been splashing the euros: Earlier this month it opened a whizz-bang new industrial complex in Tuscany — and more are on the way — so the brand has got to sell, sell, sell. The collection that Miuccia Prada showed Sunday evening underlined that: The clothes may have been connected in spirit to the women’s resort, but this collection was more about commerce than anything else.
Prada said she was seeking a “more elegant” style for her man, something youthful yet discreet, adding that she’s fed up with baggy sportswear and streetwear. “The silhouette is very lean, clean and elegant,” she said before the show. “I’ve put a lot of different pieces together — serious ones, fun ones, all sorts — but the goal was to construct, to define a youthful, contemporary elegance. They’re simple pieces, and I wanted them to make sense.”
She took a similar tack with the accessories, which ranged from nylon sacks with drawstring ties to big leather weekenders and smaller shoulder bags. Models held them with an iron grip over one shoulder as if to say, “No one’s snatching this Prada, baby,” as they walked past guests who were perched on big, transparent inflatable cubes, a special reedition of

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Neil Barrett Men’s Spring 2019

In an adventurous, sea and surf-faring mood, Neil Barrett, who has a thing about male uniforms, set out to explore the notion of contemporary masculinity, with the collection’s emblem a Hawaiian-style flower that was never girly.
The designer worked photographic treatments of anemones onto utilitarian macs, T-shirts and sweatshirts, placing them at the breast and shoulder in place of military emblems and medals.
Some of the prints had a strong Pop Art feel, others came graphically sliced, with shadowy black prints of the flowers staining a range of looks. But mainly it added a surf vibe, opening the gates for a strong water-sport theme.
Barrett in this highly wearable collection mixed his usual color palette of sand, beige, navy, gray and black with bright colors associated with surfwear.
His signature Nineties aesthetic was intact, folding in scuba underlayers and jackets inspired by the hi-tech dry suits worn by deep sea divers. The cut of the trenches, with their dropped shoulders and rounded shapes, were even based on their lines.
The designer sprinkled in sure-sell cargo pants cut like joggers, and cool dressier looks, like a gray tux with a Nineties fit.
Moving between urban and sportswear moods, the outerwear was ever strong and plentiful, with the

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Blindness Men’s Spring 2019

In a number of ways, the story told in Blindness’ spring collection was of the age-old girl-meets-boy variety.
Exploring the theme of first love, designers Kyu Shin and Ji Park siphoned the maelstrom of emotions triggered by falling in love for the first time into a romantic collection that cleverly riffed on its theme and took the nonbinary trend to new levels of sophistication and drama.
They gracefully intermingled masculine and feminine codes, borrowing details from ultra-manly military dress and elevating them with archly feminine touches. Army great coats were reincarnated in organza, with OTT frills appliquéd across the yoke and hem; a plaid-backed trench came with a scarf of organza ruffles; a frilled Inverness cape (see Sherlock Holmes) had a pretty floral-print capelet and lining, and tough denim sailor pants were worn with a soft blue tie-neck silk shirt.
This being a brand strong on gender fluidity, there were sheer black gowns, a full-length tartan dress, pie crust collars tied around necks, sheer hunting vests, leg of mutton sleeves on the suiting, and studded leather corsetry worn over elaborately cut striped shirts and frilly blouses. In all,
The charming, pearl-embellished eye masks worn by some models were a clever wink at their brand’s

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A-Cold-Wall Men’s Spring 2019

Samuel Ross’ brand A-Cold-Wall is continually seeking to expand the fashion vernacular by playing with new proportions and alternative ideas of beauty. Ross’ latest collection was presented as an immersive performance at the Old Truman Brewery that was conceptual — but not necessarily accessible.
Guests were advised to put on protective goggles, masks and earplugs monogrammed with the brand’s acronym that were handed out at the door. Wind turbines and haze created a doomed, dystopian atmosphere, and the show began with a group of actors wearing hooded smocks and chalk-painted skin storming down the runway. Models showcasing the collection followed.
Utilitarian sportswear has been the foundation of the brand and this season, Ross purged it of its traditional aesthetic. He took the basis of sportswear, deconstructed it and morphed each piece into new silhouettes. Included were cropped outerwear in thick layers of transparent PVC paired with pouches that wrapped across the bodies. Puffy vests were deconstructed and held together by seatbelt webbing and clip closures. He did the same with down jackets, which he dissected and laced back together with metallic silver leather with asymmetric sleeves, and cargo shorts and pants featured oversized pockets that distorted the silhouette.
“It’s really art,” Ross said

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Matthew Miller Men’s Spring 2019

When K-Swiss, the California-based footwear brand, approached Matthew Miller wanting to work on a collaboration, he had one condition: The resulting ready-to-wear had to be made using the technology he’d recently discovered that could turn garments destined for the landfill into new fabric.
“I discovered this (recycling) tech, but as a small designer, I wasn’t big enough to utilize it because it’s hydro-powered and we had to do a certain amount of (volume) to make it environmentally viable,” said Miller. Around the same time, he came upon a cache of about 10,000 band T-shirts that were destined for the landfill.
They were later funneled into the K-Swiss collaboration, a streetwear collection of mostly tracksuits and Ts that appeared on the catwalk along with the designer’s signature line.
For the main collection, Miller mined his background as a frequent flier at some of Britain’s most renowned late-Nineties clubs. “I wanted it to feel like an underground movement, almost like what a club scene would have been like 20 years ago, where you get all these different characters. But they’re all into one thing — the music or the scene,” he said.
Those ideas translated into a confident collection that felt more upbeat than previous seasons, with pops of neon or

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Simon Miller RTW Spring 2019

For American sportswear label Simon Miller, fewer pastimes are as American as race car driving. Designers Chelsea Hansford and Daniel Corrigan cited iconic late Sixties, early Seventies drag racers Steve McQueen, “Jungle” Jim Liberman and his backing partner, “Jungle Pam,” for inspiration into spring. “The looks she would wear to the tracks were the craziest,” Corrigan noted at a preview. “That’s the mood of the collection.”
They even shot the look book along a 1953 raceway, telling the story of driving through the mountains while flowers are blooming and ice is melting.
The theme led to neon jackets in crackled leather that referenced torn asphalt, techy sport separates, poppy floral prints and a big push on denim that included a new “013” high-rise slim crop fit. The brand is denim at heart, and ever since Hansford joined Corrigan in Los Angeles last year, it’s been given newfound attention. It’s also partly why the brand has switched to a June spring model; they’ll be able to show resort and spring together while traveling to New York less.
A colorful tire track print found on denim twinsets pulled together the season’s palette of sunny yellow, orange, red and blue. A sense of playfulness underscored saturated

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Kaia Gerber Combines Two Denim Trends for the Ultimate Spring Jacket

ESC: Dare to Wear, Kaia GerberKaia Gerber just put a cool, new twist on an old classic: the denim jacket.
In honor of the Levi’s x Karla 501 Day Celebration, the 145th birthday celebration for the brand’s…

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Kaia Gerber Combines Two Denim Trends for the Ultimate Spring Jacket

ESC: Dare to Wear, Kaia GerberKaia Gerber just put a cool, new twist on an old classic: the denim jacket.
In honor of the Levi’s x Karla 501 Day Celebration, the 145th birthday celebration for the brand’s…

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Books of The Times: With ‘Spring,’ Karl Ove Knausgaard’s Latest Project Comes Into Focus

In the third of four books addressed to his youngest daughter, Knausgaard returns to form, and to ruthlessness, writing to fight a familial legacy of alienation from the world.
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Spring Parts Curtain on American Ballet Theatre

Spring, the downtown creative hub that offers collaborative workspaces and a business club, prides itself on introducing members to new experiences. That includes everything from Danish star chef René Redzepi’s Noma pop-up restaurant and Caviar Kaspia’s temporary residency, to Tribeca Film Festival’s virtual arcade of VR and augmented-reality exhibits and experiences.
In that spirit of discovery, Spring on Friday said it has partnered with American Ballet Theatre to host a series of events with the goal of inspiring new audiences and cultivating the next generation of ballet enthusiasts and supporters.

Starting this month, Spring Place will lift the curtain on the ballet to reveal the spirit and practice of American Ballet Theatre to its members and the downtown community. Spring members will have access to the ballet company, which is working to preserve and extend its classical repertoire. American Ballet Theatre artistic director Kevin McKenzie said dancers are eager to “demystify the art form at events for the Spring community of art enthusiasts.”

Programming starting in May will include a panel discussion about peak performance in artists and athletes featuring McKenzie, HBO Sports executive vice president Peter Nelson, and sports psychology consultant and former NFL director of education and player engagement Dr. Lauren Loberg. There

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Iceberg to Show Men’s Spring Collection in London

LONDON BOUND:  Iceberg goes to the U.K.
The Italian contemporary brand, controlled by manufacturing company Gilmar, is showing its men’s spring 2019 collection during London Collections: Men.
The runway show will take place on June 8 in a still undisclosed location.
Along with unveiling its latest men’s effort, creative director James Long will also showcase a selection of looks from Iceberg women’s pre-fall lineup.
Long joined the Iceberg men’s division in November 2015 and then, in August 2016, he was tapped by the brand to succeed Arthur Arbesser at the helm of the women’s line.
Last February, Iceberg presented its women’s fall collection, along with a few looks from the men’s range, with a runway show in the streets of Milan.

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10 Of The Best Beauty Buys From Sephora’s VIB Spring Sale

Makeup and skincare worth your time and money.
Style and Beauty – Fashion News, Celebrity Style and Fashion Trends
FASHION NEWS UPDATE-Visit Shoe Deals Online today for the hottest deals online for shoes!

Olivia Munn Celebrates Nature With an Epic Spring Outfit

ESC: Dare to Wear, Olivia MunnOlivia Munn is a natural goddess in her floral ensemble.
Earlier this week, the star attended a party honoring Eva Longoria’s Walk of Fame star, wearing a sheer floral dress, a green…

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Meghan Markle Brings a Splash of Spring With New Striped Look

Meghan MarkleIf clothes could talk, Meghan Markle’s latest outfit would shout: “Spring has sprung!”
The soon-to-be bride stepped out alongside her royal beau Prince Harry for a joint…

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Promise Project to Hold Spring Fund-raiser on May 1

CHANGING LIVES: Promise Project will host its 11th annual Beautiful Promise cocktail party on May 1, co-chaired by Cindy Weber Cleary, Lori Buchbinder and Terry Darland. The event takes place at the Metropolitan Pavilion, 123 West 18th Street, in New York from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m.
The evening will once again feature ABC’s Bill Ritter as emcee.
Guests will have the opportunity to bid on silent auction items such as accessories and jewelry from Versace, Valentino, Jennifer Meyer, Ileana Makri, Alexis Bittar and Chanel, as well as experiences such as “Daily Show” tickets.
One-of-a-kind items and experiences will also be available for bidding on Charity Buzz when the auction goes live on April 24, such as a private tour of MoMA and Yankees tickets, as well as a lunch with Nicole Miller and tickets to a “Shark Tank” taping.
Dana Buchman, board chair, explained that since the charity started, they’ve transformed the lives of more than 1,200 children and their families thanks to the generosity of their sponsors, board and benefit committee.
Promise Project, in collaboration with Columbia University Medical Center and New York Presbyterian Hospital, is a comprehensive program committed to helping impoverished children living with learning disabilities get the support they need to succeed.
 

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Your Spring Wardrobe Staple, Based on Your April Horoscope

ESC: April Horoscopes, Olivia Munn, CancerThe month of April is full of unexpected blessings.
“You need to take this month moment by moment, not even day by day,” spiritual advisor Lisa Greenfield told E! News. “If…

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Jennifer Garner and Kids Join Ben Affleck in Hawaii Over Spring Break

Ben Affleck, Jennifer Garner Jennifer Garner and her kids are spending Spring Break and Easter in Hawaii with Ben Affleck.
Since their 2015 split, the actors have made it a priority to co-parent the kids and have…

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Your Spring Wardrobe Staple, Based on Your April Horoscope

ESC: April Horoscopes, Olivia Munn, CancerThe month of April is full of unexpected blessings.
“You need to take this month moment by moment, not even day by day,” spiritual advisor Lisa Greenfield told E! News. “If…

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Spring games guide 2018: 12 reasons to stay indoors this season

Spring games guide 2018: 12 reasons to stay indoors this seasonSpring is a time of rebirth, and for the games industry, a great time to launch a huge product or three. ‘God of War’ is shaping up to be an early contender for Game of the Year. Now a father, Kratos must mentor his young son and manage his legendary temper as the two explore a strange Scandinavian world.



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Your Ultimate Spring Break Packing List

Branded: Target Spring BreakYou look forward to Spring Break every year because, let’s face it, it’s the time of your life.
Maybe you’re jetting off to Miami Beach with a handful of your best babes, or…

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Your Ultimate Spring Break Packing List

Branded: Target Spring BreakYou look forward to Spring Break every year because, let’s face it, it’s the time of your life.
Maybe you’re jetting off to Miami Beach with a handful of your best babes, or…

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Peace Love World, LLC – SPRING SAVINGS SALE! SAVE 25% Off Site Wide & Free Shipping On Orders Over $100 At PeaceLoveWorld.com! Use Code: SPRINGY At Checkout! Click Here!

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4 Spring Pasta Recipes: Make a Meal of the Season’s Freshest Produce

Vibrant green vegetables are starting their stride down the seasonal runway; tossed with a tangle of pasta, they stretch further to make affordable, sumptuous meals. These four fresh recipes from chefs around the country will easily feed a crowd.
WSJ.com: Lifestyle

SHOPPING DISCOUNT UPDATE:

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9 Kids’ Choice Awards Style Trends You’ll Be Seeing All Spring

ESC: Kristen Bell, Nickelodeon Kids Choice Awards 2018Take notes!
The 2018 Kids’ Choice Awards is not the fashion event that is the Oscars or Met Gala, but there are style lessons to be learned. The casual red carpet offers outfit…

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9 Kids’ Choice Awards Style Trends You’ll Be Seeing All Spring

ESC: Kristen Bell, Nickelodeon Kids Choice Awards 2018Take notes!
The 2018 Kids’ Choice Awards is not the fashion event that is the Oscars or Met Gala, but there are style lessons to be learned. The casual red carpet offers outfit…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

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Saturday Savings: Olivia Culpo’s H&M Top Is $15 and Perfect for Spring!

ESC: Olivia Culpo, Saturday SavingsA white top and jeans have never looked so good.
Olivia Culpo continues to prove that mastering basics is the first step to an incredible wardrobe. On a casual day, the style star wore a…

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Saturday Savings: Olivia Culpo’s H&M Top Is $15 and Perfect for Spring!

ESC: Olivia Culpo, Saturday SavingsA white top and jeans have never looked so good.
Olivia Culpo continues to prove that mastering basics is the first step to an incredible wardrobe. On a casual day, the style star wore a…

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Mindy Kaling, Gigi Hadid and More Master Mixing Prints for Spring

ESC: Mindy Kaling, Mixed PrintsThere are no rules to mixing and matching prints and patterns.
But if you want to look as flawless as Mindy Kaling, Gigi Hadid, Yara Shahidi and Greta Gerwig in their takes on the tricky…

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Alexa Chung Fetes Superga Spring Capsule

CLASSIC KICKS: Plant-based restaurant The Butcher’s Daughter dubs itself the “vegetable slaughterhouse,” and last night Superga and Alexa Chung closed down the joint for a private party to toast the launch of their capsule collection together.
The shoe brand asked Chung to design an exclusive capsule, which makes tweaks to some of Superga’s classics for spring, including the addition of a toe cap on some styles and an increased height on the high top. Fabrications include satin and terry towel in colors such as burgundy, sky blue, green and off-white.
“We approached this very much as a passion project, an homage to Superga and their classic sneaker,” Chung said. “It’s the shape that I love, so rather than amend the last and make the sole crazy or do anything wild, we just did really subtle additions that I think make it look really luxe-y.”
It was also important that the shoes coexist with Chung’s namesake label, she added.
“It came about because they asked me to collaborate but it had to sit within our own brand and our online shop. So knowing the timing of when it would come out, we made an effort to make it. Also, sneakers are something we don’t make

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Urban Zen RTW Spring 2018

Roaming through Donna Karan’s Urban Zen store, where the designer showed her latest in-season collection, is a transporting experience. Furniture, jewelry and art are culled from Haiti, Papua New Guinea, Bali and Africa, among other artisanal communities, in a vast curation of culture. It ties with the brand ethos focused on life (hers, specifically), travel and effortless dressing through it all.
Karan isn’t shy about the personal outfitting aspect, either. “I’m selfish, this is mine, nobody else’s,” she says with a laugh. “If other people want it, great, but I’m doing my own wardrobe!” It’s a highly enviable one. For her upcoming trip to Africa, she made easy-to-wear jumpsuits, tunics and dresses that transition from short to long with a hidden button. A wrap skirt maintained great versatility, with options to wear undone, tied at the front with a little bunching, or to the side for a wrapped effect. Featherweight statement necklaces made from combinations of leather, rubber and suede topped these off, while belt bags added a nomadic touch. Karan introduced shoes as well, ranging from low, wraparound sandals to high boots in lightweight suede.
For summertime in the Hamptons, she proposed a palette of black and white for free-flowing poplin

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Carroll on Wilson at spring training: ‘Awesome’

Seahawks coach Pete Carroll says he has no problem with quarterback Russell Wilson taking part in spring training with the Yankees, saying Thursday, “it’s awesome.”
www.espn.com – NFL

Tommy Hilfiger Spring 2018

To say that there were many moving parts to Tommy Hilfiger’s spring TommyNow see-now-buy-now extravaganza would be not only a bad pun — the show, titled Drive, was race-car themed — but a massive understatement. An extraordinary amount of things have to fall in line to make these massive shows a success — it’s astonishing and remarkable that they have. Then again, Hilfiger runs a well-oiled machine.
Hilfiger has managed to capitalize on the see-now-buy-now moment in a way no other designer has by committing to it on another level from a production, design and delivery perspective, and by making it a social/digital tidal wave triggered by the power of Gigi Hadid, who collaborates on the Tommy x Gigi capsule collection. One hundred percent of the men’s, women’s and Gigi collection were available to purchase online the second they hit the runway. By the following morning, the collections will be shoppable in 20,000 physical points of sale. The whole shebang has dovetailed serendipitously with the revival of streetwear, logomania and Nineties nostalgia, which Hilfiger has major rights to — he was one of the original kings of logo-fied street gear the first time around twentysomething years ago. Oh, and earlier this month

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Rich Minimalism: Density the New Gauge of Luxury for Spring 2019

PARIS — Fabric collections at Première Vision Paris signaled a shift to a more delicate and refined mood for spring 2019, with a range of cloudy, hazy and powdery surfaces and gently nuanced fabrics that were soft on the eye.
Other directions for the season include “rich minimalism” explored through fabrics and leathers offering a syrupy, dense and suave suppleness.
Expect less visual excess. “It’s a season where there is a place for simplicity, with noble plains, and sophisticated mélanges. Density is a gauge of luxury,” said Ariane Bigot, deputy fashion director at PV Paris.
“Patterns are worked in a simplified way, but are never boring. Geometrics are dynamic and joyful,” continued Bigot, who also highlighted “new ornamentation” among trends.
“Even the jacquard specialists are demonstrating a new simplicity, offering exceptional monochromes that are sober and majestic.”
The hybridization trend continues to gather steam, with unexpected contrasts, and refined mixes of synthetics and raw and rustic, vegetal materials.
Undulating, hazy stripes and patterns draw the eye and are joyful and delicate.
Shiny fabrics and metallics are no longer limited to the red carpet, with bold modern spins surfacing in the sportswear, men’s wear and casualwear categories.
Wet “aquatic” looks, plastic-y finishes and jellified surfaces are key for accessories.
Meanwhile, “Infinite”

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Beauty Care Choices – Free Beauty Filled Spring Bag with $100 order

Get a free Beauty Filled Spring Bag valued at $ 30 with any order over $ 100. Use code "SPRING18".
Code: SPRING18
Begin: 2018-02-13 00:00:00
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Beauty Care Choices – Free Beauty Filled Spring Bag with $100 order

Get a free Beauty Filled Spring Bag valued at $ 30 with any order over $ 100. Use code "SPRING18".
Code: SPRING18
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Beauty Care Choices – Free Beauty Filled Spring Bag with $100 order

Get a free Beauty Filled Spring Bag valued at $ 30 with any order over $ 100. Use code "SPRING18".
Code: SPRING18
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Beauty Care Choices – Free Beauty Filled Spring Bag with $100 order

Get a free Beauty Filled Spring Bag valued at $ 30 with any order over $ 100. Use code "SPRING18".
Code: SPRING18
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Paul Smith Marks New Direction With Spring Campaign

STARTING AFRESH: Sir Paul Smith is marking the start of a new era at his label with a spring campaign that aims to channel the designer’s trademark irreverence.
Featuring Polish model Malgosia Bela and Ben Allen, the campaign takes its inspiration from the neon signs and the sandy beaches of the South of France. Black-and-white images of the sea provide the backdrop for bright colors and prints, including Hawaiian shirts and a tuna motif inspired by Smith’s many visits to the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo.
“Bright color and confident use of print are two things that lots of people know and love Paul Smith for,” said the designer. “This felt particularly true in my spring 2018 collection, where the ocean-inspired print was so prominent in many of my designs for both men and women. For the campaign it felt right to bring the brightness and optimism to the fore. It feels like we all need a bit of color right now.”
Smith has returned to the creative helm of his newly restructured company and said it was important to launch a campaign that telegraphs the brand’s message.
“I’ve been in this industry for a long time, but I’ve never known it to move

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Afef Jnifen Returns to Modeling Roots for Spring Campaigner Linda Farrow

THE EYES HAVE IT: It has been a while since Afef Jnifen headlined a modeling campaign but she agreed to get in front of the camera for Linda Farrow’s spring video.
The poolside set-up is meant to be reminiscent of the jet-set glamour Slim Aarons so often captured in his photographs. Jnifen, an actress and TV presenter, said she had two reasons for returning to her modeling roots. “First of all, Linda Farrow is my favorite eyewear brand since forever. Then I was happy and honored to work with Mariano Vivanco,” she said.
Vivanco’s year is off to a racing start. “He’s currently shooting covers for Harper’s Bazaar U.S. Vogue Russia/Japan/Brazil/Spain, GQ U.K., Man About Town and Ponystep,” a spokesman said. The lensman also handled Mavi’s new spring ad campaign and recently shot Fenty Beauty by Rihanna, Estée Lauder, Kat von D Beauty and Ralph & Russo, among others. For Linda Farrow, Vivanco packed up his camera for a private villa in Europe. While models Cici Xiang and Arnaud Lemaire are often front-and-center lolling by the pool, Jnifen looked a little elusive hidden behind Linda Farrow sunglasses and holding a small dog in the distance. Farrow also makes a cameo.
During her modeling career, Jnifen

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Xuan Couture Spring 2018

Absent from the runways for the better part of this decade, Xuan-Thu Nguyen took the long road home, or at least back to Paris’ couture where she had first shown in 2009.
This summer collection marked her third since her return last year under the label Xuan, and in her own admission, a darker collection than is customary. The idea of a road stretching out was there, in volumes figured as deflated lengths of fabric, but it was more metaphoric than biographic. “Everything you do takes time, and that’s a bad thing. It’s the way it is,” she said after the show.
Those with long memories will recall a delicate palette and floral elements, and perhaps even the “fox” stole, her take on fur transmuted into a lovely floral wreath — and here they were. As a child, the Dutch-Vietnamese designer had wanted to become a florist, so her clothes were bouquets.
Now, they were delivered with contemporary touches. One puffy posy was a Xuan version of a puffer jacket. A snowy coatdress was festooned with white ruffles. Later, an LBD had stretched petal shapes tumbling down the shoulder — the shadow of a bloom.
Back to that leave of absence: It hadn’t been

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Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Spring 2018

Jean Paul Gaultier’s tailoring skill has often earned him comparisons with Yves Saint Laurent, but there’s another famous couturier to whom he owes a big debt.
The former enfant terrible of French fashion dedicated his spring haute couture collection to his former mentor Pierre Cardin. Flanked by Maryse Gaspard, his glamorous muse and head of haute couture, the 95-year-old was swarmed by television cameras as he arrived at the show.
Gaultier, whose first job was as Cardin’s studio assistant, noted the Space Age designer has broken every rule in the book. “Cardin was always free and he has remained a free man who does what he pleases,” he said.
Thus inspired, Gaultier put on a soundtrack of jangly pop and loopy space tunes, and set off on a trip to the Swinging Sixties, with outfits named Twiggy Pop, Yellow Submarine or Cardinella.
He had clearly been boning up on the Cardin monograph published by Assouline last fall. Though the references weren’t overt — no Bubble dresses or A-line minis — his influence could be felt in monochrome outfits sliced to produce kinetic effects, and sharp-shouldered belted jackets with exaggerated peplums.
Above all, Gaultier appeared to share the veteran designer’s love of fringe. Whereas Cardin is

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Rami Kadi Couture Spring 2018

For the customer who wants the next level in personalization, Rami Kadi offers just the thing. Not only are his designs made to fit, but they were made with ticker-tape embroideries to put one’s own details in view.
“Many of my clients asked me to embroider their names on their bridal veils, or even hashtags, because everyone is on social media these days,” he said, pointing out the black bands were all detachable. On the silhouettes showcased at Le Meurice, these read #RKSS18, #COUTURESS18 and #RAMIKADI while a table displayed more options such as #METOO, #WHYWEWEARBLACK but also #PROVOKE and #BRIDETOBE.
But while it resembled the branded elastic waistbands, the Swarovski seed beads and crystal embroidery used in the two hand-spans of tape going across the front of his sweatshirt took over 20 hours to create. On one ruffled gown, there were at least a dozen feet curling around the edges of each layer.
Style-wise, Kadi tapped into the elevated street style vibe du jour. But urban inspirations were mixed in with gusto to the techniques of his craft, resulting in a parka filled with angel hair thread, crystal-encrusted detachable hoods, a floral parka worn with a fishnet skirt and a hoodie richly embroidered

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Roberto Bolle, Kendall Jenner Front Tod’s Spring Campaign, Attend Milan Men’s Presentation

BELLE AND BOLLE: Too bad Roberto Bolle couldn’t do one of his Grand Jetés at Tod’s chaotic presentation, held once again at the exquisite Villa Necchi in Milan. The Italian ballet star was literally squeezed between buyers, the press and TV cameras trying to see the new men’s collection — not to mention hordes of revelers sipping the free drinks and nibbling the canapés — with almost no room to breathe, let alone dance. Ever the pro, Bolle took the sardine-like conditions in stride and calmly and politely talked about the shoot of Tod’s spring campaign in Malibu, Calif., with Kendall Jenner, as images from the video were projected at the entrance. Jenner opened and closed Tod’s women’s spring runway show in September.
“It was fun and a pleasant break from a very intense period. It gave me a breather from the hours of training and tension, an escape from the daily sacrifice and sweat theater life requires,” said Bolle, who is seen dancing on the beach and warmly embracing a fresh-faced Jenner in the video. “These are fragments of Italian inspiration and we want to show the Italian style in the world.  It’s a joyful campaign and I think this

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Spring 2018 Fashion Trend: Casual Satin

Designers worked light-catching satin into casual silhouettes for day.

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Milanoo.com Ltd

Spring 2018 Accessories Trend: Statement Earrings

Statement earrings for spring telegraph boldness, novelty and graphic punch.
 

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Men’s Spring 2018 Trend: Patch It Up

Ever more freewheeling, men’s wear boasts logos galore, streetwear and retro touches, plus bold prints.
 
Grooming by Amanda Wilson at Opus Beauty
Models: Aly N’Diaye and Andrew Muns at Red Model Management; Clement Cornebize and Luke Blake at Wilhelmina

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Genny to Launch Children’s Wear Capsule Collection for Spring 2018

THE GENNY PRINCESS: Daughters often clamor to wear their mothers’ dresses and Genny is listening.
The brand’s creative director Sara Cavazza Facchini is delivering a children’s wear capsule collection in time for the holiday season, inspired by her daughter Angelica’s request for a range of dresses worthy of a grownup.
Cavazza Facchini has worked on a 30-piece lineup of children’s wear, named Genny Princess. The range reinterprets the brand’s signature elements of plissé and one-shouldered dresses that defines the brand’s aesthetics.
“I had been thinking about it for some seasons, now. I developed a range of occasion dresses, which also include three floor-length gowns,” explained Cavazza Facchini.

Genny creative director Sara Cavazza Facchini with daughter Angelica. 
Courtesy Photo.

Designed in bright hues such as blue, gold, tangerine and mint as well as more toned-down colors such as nude and off-white, the capsule collection will bow for spring 2018. The full offering will debut in Genny’s flagship stores worldwide from February. Prices range from 200 to 1,000 euros.
For the holiday season, starting from Monday, a selection of eight pieces from the Genny Princess collection will be available on genny.com.
The first children’s wear collection is produced by Swinger International, the Italian apparel manufacturing group which acquired Genny in February

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Guess Taps Jennifer Lopez for Spring Campaign

NEW FACE: Looks like Jennifer Lopez’s next act will be appearing as the new face of Guess Inc. in its upcoming campaign.
The multihyphenate is set to appear in the Los Angeles denim firm’s spring 2018 campaign, photographed by Tatiana Gerusova and art directed by Guess cofounder Paul Marciano. This marks the first time Lopez and the company will be working together.
Lopez’s music video premiere earlier this month for her single “Amor, Amor, Amor” could have perhaps been a clue of her upcoming work with Guess. She sported a crop top from the company as one of her looks in the video.
The aesthetic of the campaign is Hollywood meets Las Vegas glitz, the latter being a nod to Lopez’s residency at the Planet Hollywood Resort and Casino in Vegas for her concert “Jennifer Lopez: All I Have,” which capped last December.
Lopez, in a statement, referenced her affinity for the brand starting from a young age.
“When I got the call from Paul Marciano asking me to become the new Guess girl, I was thrilled and excited to be a part of such an iconic brand that I have loved since I was a teenager,” Lopez said in a statement. “When I look

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Net-a-porter Takes Evolution Over Revolution Approach for Spring

LONDON — Net-a-porter has been rethinking the way it approaches its seasonal buys and shifting its attention away from the traditional fashion calendar and ephemeral trends, toward ideas that have been unfolding over several seasons, items that have social media mileage and buzzy new names in the contemporary market.
“The idea that each season we present the woman with a new vision of who she is going to be, is simply outdated for us,” said Lisa Aiken, the company’s retail fashion director, explaining that while the Net customer is always on the hunt for newness, she also has an intimate knowledge of her personal style and isn’t looking for radical shifts.
For spring, the retailer is standing behind a number of trends that have been developing over the last few seasons, including tailoring, bright colors and high glamour.
Tailoring has already taken off for fall; suits made up 30 percent of the company’s ready-to-wear buy for fall 2017 and to date, 6,000 blazers have been sold on the site. For spring, Net is planning to build on the trend’s burgeoning success, with tailored pieces in lighter fabrications such as linen and brighter colors.
The retailer has also been cautiously introducing Eighties or Nineties-inspired pieces,

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The Met Counts on Vatican for Costume Institute’s Spring Exhibition Pieces

LIKE A PRAYER: Some scholars and pundits contest that religion is the root of most of the conflict in the world, but that hasn’t deterred the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute from taking on “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination” as its spring exhibition.
The juxtaposition of fashion and masterworks of religious art will be designed to examine fashion’s ongoing engagement with the devotional practices and traditions of Catholicism. The Met has arranged to showcase a group of papal robes and accessories from the Vatican, highlighting the enduring influence of liturgical vestments on designers. A battery of designers — Thierry Mugler, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Thom Browne, Azzedine Alaïa, John Galliano for the House of Dior, Claire McCardell, Madeleine Vionnet, Isabel Toledo, Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino, Elsa Schiaparelli, Raf Simons for his own label and the House of Dior — will have their work on view.
The multilayered exhibition will be held at The Met Fifth Avenue in both the medieval galleries and the Anna Wintour Costume Center. The show will also be housed in the city’s northern regions at The Met Cloisters, creating a trio of distinct gallery locations. When the show opens, Met ticket holders will wander amid 50 ecclesiastical

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The Met Counts on Vatican for Costume Institute’s Spring Exhibition Pieces

LIKE A PRAYER: Some scholars and pundits contest that religion is the root of most of the conflict in the world, but that hasn’t deterred the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute from taking on “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination” as its spring exhibition.
The juxtaposition of fashion and masterworks of religious art will be designed to examine fashion’s ongoing engagement with the devotional practices and traditions of Catholicism. The Met has arranged to showcase a group of papal robes and accessories from the Vatican, highlighting the enduring influence of liturgical vestments on designers. A battery of designers — Thierry Mugler, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Thom Browne, Azzedine Alaïa, John Galliano for the House of Dior, Claire McCardell, Madeleine Vionnet, Isabel Toledo, Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino, Elsa Schiaparelli, Raf Simons for his own label and the House of Dior — will have their work on view.
The multilayered exhibition will be held at The Met Fifth Avenue in both the medieval galleries and the Anna Wintour Costume Center. The show will also be housed in the city’s northern regions at The Met Cloisters, creating a trio of distinct gallery locations. When the show opens, Met ticket holders will wander amid 50 ecclesiastical

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Toga RTW Spring 2018

Thanks to support from Amazon Fashion via its At Tokyo program, Yasuko Furuta presented her first show in Tokyo in 12 years, and it just so happened to coincide with her brand’s 20th anniversary. The designer said she views it as her job to always be creating new things, and therefore, she didn’t want to pull styles from her archives but wanted to create a collection that was as representative of her brand as possible. Her models descended via escalator to a curved runway set up on the ground floor of the National Art Center Tokyo. She added feminine detailing such as cinched waists and cropped lengths to men’s wear, while masculine shapes and tailoring was mixed into her women’s offering. Pleated skirts had a hole in the front for one leg to pass through, dresses had high slits or a single long sleeve, and trousers had wide legs and high waists. A series of subtly deconstructed suiting included jackets that were turned inside out or had cutout backs or lopped off sleeves. Furuta incorporated a variety of eye-catching textures, from clear vinyl and sheer mesh to plastic-y crinkle fabrics and a ruched metallic plaid.

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J Brand RTW Spring 2018

Staged in a sun-filled studio set with loads of green plants and wicker chairs on which the models lounged, it was easy to infer an organic, clean California aesthetic from J Brand’s spring collection. The collection’s jeans — many cropped with high waists, wide or straight legs in powdery pink, natural off-white and traditional blue indigo — will pair well with the pottery-loving, gluten- and dairy-free cool girl’s lifestyle. From jean jackets to white Ts to a black leather miniskirt, the shapes were mostly clean and classic with little to no whiskering and the only distressing a raw hem or two. For the first time, men’s was included in the presentation, with the guys playing perfect counterpart to the girls in skinny jeans and relaxed jackets in shades of white, gray and faded blue.

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5-Knot RTW Spring 2018

Ena Kizawa and Taketo Nishino mixed urban and rural influences for spring, showing sweet, pastel gingham skirts and floral blouses alongside slick, plasticky stirrup pants and sparkling crop tops in bright shades of magenta and lemon. For the most part, silhouettes were loose and easy, and chiffon and lace were paired with clear vinyl and metallic fabrics. The offering felt repetitive and would have benefited from a good edit.

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Hyke RTW Spring 2018

Elegant, modern and minimalist, Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara’s spring collection showed a polish and professionalism that can only be gained through experience. They showed largely monotone looks in neutral shades of khaki, brown, black and white, with some snakeskin print thrown in for contrast. Long, pleated organza skirts were worn over slim pants with slits at the back of the ankles, and jackets were layered over calf-length dresses. A collaboration with The North Face produced outdoorsy anorak jackets in extralong or ultracropped lengths, providing the perfect contrast to the contemporary urban aesthetic of the other pieces.

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AG RTW Spring 2018

AG’s team of designers was inspired by Joan Didion for spring — everything from her personal style and writing, down to certain descriptive words she used in interviews. Didion’s balance of vulnerable writing against a fearlessness in speaking her mind translated into silhouettes that balanced masculine and feminine design, as in a boxy utilitarian jacket, men’s-inspired shirting and rigid denim with raw hems, paint splatter and embroidery. The subdued color palette of washed-down blues, desert tones and green further referenced her writings on nature.

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Enhance RTW Spring 2018

Masakazu Takeguchi’s first show for Tokyo Fashion Week had a rock concert vibe, with the entire audience standing, the closest members just inches from the raised, narrow runway. The clothes followed a similar vein, with long fringe hanging from tank tops, skirts, trousers and shorts. All-black looks included jeans splattered in white paint, an open-knit sweater and dresses with uneven hems. While overall the look was very street, a variety of blazers and tailored separates added polish.

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Mikio Sakabe RTW Spring 2018

Mikio Sakabe has long been one of Japan’s favorite avant-garde brands, and the spring offering was no exception. Now designed by the founder and his wife, Shueh Jen-Fang, its latest collection featured quirky takes on colorful Eighties power suits. V-neck buttoned dresses were layered over ruffled blouses, and skirts and jacket sleeves were voluminous to the max. The looks were complemented by extreme platform shoes, causing the models to step gingerly down the runway. The show closed with a coat and suit jacket in a dainty floral print, each with padded, three-dimensional protrusions in the shape of hearts or stars.

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Nerd Unit RTW Spring 2018

Overt military references permeated Ronald Chew’s latest streetwear offering. A large portion of the collection was turned out in a geometric camouflage print in either green or gray, and some looks were accessorized with a flag, combat helmet or police hat. A workman-style jumpsuit for men and a women’s ensemble consisting of a black velour T-shirt and wide-leg pants provided a small dose of variety, but overall the cargo pants and parkas felt repetitive.

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Original Penguin Taps Band AJR for Spring 2018 Campaign

Men’s wear brand Original Penguin has tapped New York-based indie band AJR for its spring campaign, to be released in February of next year. Brothers Adam, Jack and Ryan Met were in Los Angeles this week to shoot the campaign as well as the music video for their single “Come Hang Out,” off their new album “The Click,” a version of which will also serve as the video campaign for OP’s spring collection.

Adam, Jack and Ryan Met of AJR. 
Jim Metzger

“The shoot is some performance and some facial expressions, sort of like acting,” said Jack Met, explaining the concept of the video. “We are at a crazy party, but we are so busy performing that we don’t really notice the party going on around us,” he said.
Adam Met explained that it’s their first time linking with a fashion brand. “Original Penguin has great style, great simplicity and a throwback vibe that mirrors our style as a band. I also like the juxtapositions in the line, like a Seventies print shirt with Nineties pants. It’s sort of our like our music, a post-modern mix.”
The band of brothers, who have been playing together for 12 years, got their start as street performers in

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Licht Ster RTW Spring 2018

Naoshi Sawayanagi formerly ran his own eponymous label, but now he has teamed with Hikari, niece of Japanese fashion designer Junko Koshino, on this new brand. It showed a mix of ath-leisure and preppy looks, nearly all in stark white, that would all have looked right at home in a country club. But the cropped racer-back tanks, tennis dresses, jogger pants, sports shorts and blazers quickly became repetitive and failed to provide excitement.

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Discovered Men’s Spring 2018

Tatsuya Kimura and Sanae Yoshida went grungy for spring, layering hooded sweatshirts, coats and loose-fitting pants in mixed plaids, denim, tie-dye and patchwork. Interspersed were a few more elegant looks of tailored black pants and jackets with flame motifs embroidered above the hems. And — likely due to the brand winning last season’s DHL Designer Award — there were also DHL branded T-shirts and bandages worn over nose bridges, which felt forced and over the top.

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Murral RTW Spring 2018

Many of the textiles selected by Ayumi Sekiguchi and Yusuke Muramatsu for their spring collection seemed to come from interior design elements, including curtains, upholstery and cushion covers. There was lots of lace, ruffles and scalloped trim on girly dresses and long skirts, while a bathrobe so closely resembled curtains that it even had a rope belt with tasseled ends. The designers also used botanical motifs, with floral accents embroidered onto the sleeves of jackets or the fronts of blouses.

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Tory Sport RTW Spring 2018

Tory Burch’s Sport line is not for the girl who wants to blend in with the legions of fitness fiends clad in black leggings, black sports bras and black tanks with a white swoop here or there. Her line goes big with happy color, for spring, inspired by David Hicks, as was her main line. Burch brought Hick’s florals and bold, graphic color into sport with printed navy and scarlet bomber, an orange and blue sports bra and leggings, and a floral-printed Neoprene zip-up one-piece swimsuit.
It wasn’t just cute. Burch takes the performance aspect of the collection seriously, pushing her staff to infuse technical development into everything, whether it’s Coolmax cashmere sweatpants, a ruffled tennis sweater or golf vest. “I said, ‘Let’s make functionality a given, not a design detail,’” said Burch during a preview. In addition to working with fabrics with wicking, cooling and anti-microbial properties, golf skirts come with under-shorts and pockets big enough for scorecards and a yellow and navy jacket is fully reversible to a waterproof rain slicker. As for the Little Grumps frowny-faced tennis balls that have become a charming brand logo and graced a fresh white oversize sweater, pastel sweatshirts and Ts, well, that

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Memuse RTW Spring 2018

For her debut collection, Risa Aizawa drew inspiration from the neighborhood of Akihabara in Tokyo, which is known as a center of anime, manga and video game culture. She showed both innocent, Lolita-like looks, such as a quilted white dress with flounce sleeves and a bloomers-and-bib combo with a chiffon cape over the top, and darker, edgier pieces like skin-baring black HotPants and crop tops and body-con dresses covered in attached teddy bears. There was even a maid’s outfit, a nod to the fetishized “maid cafes” that are famous in Akihabara.

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