Nihl Men’s Spring 2019

In his New York show, Neil Grotzinger of Nihl, the LVMH Prize finalist, broke traditional rules of masculinity with a collection that centered around bending the rules of those in authority.
He took police officers, football players and Wall Street brokers and turned their wardrobes on their head by “exploring the qualities of borderline ephemerality and downright queerness,” according to the liner notes.

A clear example was a pair of football pants made from fine white silk he paired with a handmade chain mail tank top. An authentic crinkled painter’s tarp — black on one side, green on the other with drawstrings included — was reinterpreted as pants and a top.

Grotzinger’s use of elaborate embroidery techniques appeared as embellishments on several pieces, including the sleeves of sheer tops and a sliced-open basketball short.

The use of revealing cutouts and jock straps throughout the collection added a level of eroticism while enhancing the masculinity of the offering.

“The concepts of masculinity can be very restrictive and I like to break the conformity of that,” Grotzinger said.

In this debut, Grotzinger gained a lot of attention by breaking the rules — in the right way.

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Jahnkoy Men’s Spring 2019

Maria Jahnkoy, whose real name is Maria Kazakova, is Siberian and studied at Central Saint Martins and Parsons, has received a lot of support from the industry with her brand narrative, which is centered on preserving traditional craftsmanship and reworking it for a new generation.
She was shortlisted for the 2017 LVMH Prize and has found fans in consultant Julie Gilhart and Bruce Pask, the men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. Kazakova also has the support of Puma, Swarovski and the CFDA’s Elaine Gold Launch Pad program.
Her goal has always been to connect larger companies with local artisans, but with the extra help she’s been able to expand on that and bring more makers from Brooklyn and India into the mix. The show, which was more like a theatrical art project, was a collective effort as well. Titled “Deceived: No More,” the performance explored how the fashion industry impacts cultural identity. The presentation, which was choreographed by Nathan Trice, was broken up into three parts: chaos, unification and order. Much like her previous presentations, she made the runway mimic a chaotic city street that was dotted with orange cones and caution signs — one read “Separation is No

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Abasi Rosborough Men’s Spring 2019

In their sophomore showing during New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough explored a desert phantom theme that referenced a variety of vanishing cultures and tribes.
The design duo paraded a diverse range, from kimono-inspired jackets and coats and fitted cargo pants to Navajo-printed parkas. The color palette included deep burgundies and burnt orange that brought an Eastern sensibility to the forefront, while a flowing white section telegraphed the desert inspiration. “We even looked at ‘Lawrence of Arabia,’” Rosborough noted.
A wrinkled cotton hybrid poncho with matching head scarf and an ethereal topcoat in the same fabric also drove the desert theme home. Likewise, a Tencel linen that was frayed to look old — employed for bomber jackets and coats — reinforced that worn-in traveler vibe.
With this effort, Abasi Rosborough continues to make its mark in men’s fashion. “We’ve seen an exodus of big designers this week, but we look at it as an opportunity for new designers to step forward,” Rosborough said.

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Robin Derrick Departs Spring Studios to Pursue Beauty Project

BEAUTY CALLING: The London-based creative Robin Derrick is departing Spring Studios as global executive director to move onto a new, unnamed project in the beauty arena.
Derrick worked at Spring in his global role for seven years, having joined in 2011 from Condé Nast where he’d spent 20 years as creative director of British Vogue.
During his tenure at Spring, Derrick was the creative lead of the company during a growth period. Spring opened in New York in 2013 and Milan in 2016.
While at Spring, Derrick had been developing his own brand and business projects. “Robin is now leaving to devote his time to those projects. We take this opportunity to wish him well for the future and thank him for his years of service to Spring,” the company said Wednesday.
Derrick said he learned “invaluable lessons from both the incredible staff and inspirational clients. I am grateful for an extraordinary opportunity to help build a next-generation communication company and I look forward to watching Spring grow in the future.”
It is understood that Derrick’s next project will be in beauty, although a spokesperson for Spring said it was still confidential and declined to give any details.
Derrick is married to Lisa Eldridge, the celebrity makeup artist and author who also has a successful

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Head of State Men’s Spring 2019

For his first runway show, Nigerian-born designer Taofeek Abijako, took inspiration from Afrofuturism and paraded a lineup with a distinct Seventies feel. 
Cue an array of high-waisted cropped and flared pants, fitted sweatshirts and message T-shirts.
The standouts were the flared pants, worn with matching boots, which gave it a New York Seventies vibe. 
Head of State is now part of Groupe, a distribution umbrella formed by James and Gwendolyn Jurney of Seize sur Vingt, which manages and nurtures independent designers and brands. Abijako was the first brand chosen, allowing him to focus strictly on creating the collection while Groupe provides the funding for samples and production.     

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Bode Men’s Spring 2019

Aaron Aujla, owner of Green River Project, a furniture and interiors firm, was Emily Bode’s primary reference point this season. She met Aujla in New York and they’ve previously worked together on other projects. (He’s created all of the furniture for Bode’s presentations.)
For her collection, Bode drew from Aujla’s lineage. His family is from India, but he grew up in British Columbia. Bode has always outsourced her embroidery and embellishment work in India, but this season she worked with more Indian textiles that had historical significance. She made suits from Khadi towels, an Indian fabric and developed another suit from India’s government subsidized mill prints.
Bode said the Khadi fabric has a connection to Mahatma Gandhi’s self-reliance movement, which urged Indians to bring weaving back into the home as opposed to buying these goods from other countries.
Highlights included a white fringed button-up shirt made of chenille, a pair of floral print high-waisted pants constructed from curtain fabric, and a bright yellow matching set printed with a village motif that consisted of a crepe de chine shirt and duchesse-satin pants.
The furniture was influenced by Indian filmmaker Satyajit Ray’s 1966 “Nayak,” which was filmed on a train, and each of the pieces were

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Ricardo Seco Men’s Spring 2019

The 50th anniversary of the Mexico City Olympics served as the jumping off point for Ricardo Seco’s spring men’s collection.

The designer used stripes and optical illusions along with the late Sixties font and Olympics rings to pay homage to the 1968 Games. These graphics showed up in bombers, T-shirts and track pants that Seco reimagined in bright colors or vibrant black and white.

More contemporary visual elements such as cell phones and skates were used as accents inside jackets while the current immigration crisis was referenced by large DACA lettering on T-shirts and socks. Seco also went back to the beginning of the Black Power movement by using the now-famous fist symbol on tops.

The overall vibe of the collection felt upbeat despite the political references.

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Reconstruct Collective Men’s Spring 2019

Reconstruct Collective, consisting of five female designers, began out of necessity. After learning that the Willem de Kooning Academy wasn’t able to put on a fashion show for its graduating class, students banded together to organize their own show. And in order to raise money for the show, they needed to form a business with the chamber of commerce. Because they worked so well together, Laura Aanen, Alyssa Groeneveld, Kim Kivits, Michelle Lievaart and Sanne Verkleij decided to start a collective shortly after graduating. Now three collections in, the Amsterdam-based company opted to show in New York, which Groeneveld said made sense for the brand, which caters to the youth.
For spring the unisex line was based on a fictional place called Planet Re-4 and the fictional characters that live there. The lineup, which Groeneveld said falls between streetwear and couture, was made up of reconstructions of sporty pieces. They presented cropped bubble vests and matching miniskirts, wide-leg nylon pants decorated with multiple drawstrings or reflective material, cropped tank tops with the Re-4 logo and jackets made from strips of fabric. The waistbands displayed a graphic Reconstruct logo. They also reconfigured Converse tracksuits and pieces from The New Originals, an Amsterdam-based

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Public School Men’s Spring 2019

Call it Public School part two.
On the final night of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, the streetwear-skewed brand held a party and presentation at a space on Howard Street in Chinatown with its theme kept under wraps until the doors opened.
“This is our space,” said Dao-Yi Chow, who designs the label with Maxwell Osborne. “This will be our first retail store and this is a soft launch of the space.”
Throughout the location were mannequins dressed in the new collection — although Chow said the description “needs an asterisk by ‘new.’ Everything is recycled, upcycled or dead stock,” he said, and is intended to represent our new philosophy.”
While the philosophy may be new, the lineup revisited the duo’s greatest hits.
They revisited collaborations with like-minded brands including Eileen Fisher, whose dead-stock silks became striped pajama-inspired ensembles; Levi’s, whose vintage denim was reworked into cropped trucker jackets, and Alpha Industries military fabrics made into sleek outerwear.
“It’s very much the foundation and our past and then looking into the future,” Osborne added.
The collection reflected that with a clear example being a supersharp black suit with built-in cargo pockets and statement zippers. A short-sleeve jumpsuit — also part of their DNA — was so elegant

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Todd Snyder Men’s Spring 2019

Todd Snyder closed New York Fashion Week: Men’s on a high note, sending out a feel-good collection full of bright colors and a youthful attitude that he titled “The American Tourist.”
“I played a lot with a mix of sartorial and campy references,” he said backstage before the show, where truffle popcorn and beer was served.
The opening look set the tone for the collection: a yellow T-shirt with a photo of a Waffle House that was taken by folk rocker Gerry Beckley of the group America. A series, all shot by the musician, are to make their debut for spring.
Snyder, the king of collaborations, unveiled other partnerships at the show including a line of terry-cloth bucket hats with Kangol, high-top tie-dye sneakers with Novesta, and perhaps the most striking, archival Hawaiian prints from Reyn Spooner that he used most successfully on an updated suit. “It’s the modern leisure suit,” he said.
His longtime partnership with Champion was also on display in bomber jackets, paneled sweatshirts and underwear. It even appeared as a side stripe on a plaid patterned suit.
Another play on the Americana theme came with the introduction of a new logo — “Snyder’s” in retro block letters — that he used

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Romeo Hunte Men’s Spring 2019

Romeo Hunte didn’t make any friends in his men’s runway debut in New York. His choice of a site away from the other venues and the complete chaos in the lobby of the Dream Downtown Hotel with hundreds of people attempting to access elevators to get to the rooftop site was bad enough. The fact that his team couldn’t get its act together to start his show until nearly an hour after it was planned had everyone eyeing the exits before the first look came out.
Once the show finally started, it was clear that Hunte had an underwater sports adventure as his overriding theme. He used neoprene from diving wetsuits that he reimagined as performance vests in bright colors and cropped jackets with exaggerated necklines.

Camo prints in cargo pants and bombers and the use of safety orange enhanced the streetwear flair. But while the line showed some promise, there were several missteps, including poorly executed tailoring and some unfortunate sequined embellished sweatshirts. But apart from that, the collection was youthful and carefree.

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Death to Tennis Men’s Spring 2019

Summertime was the prevailing theme for William Watson and Vincent Oshin, the duo behind Death to Tennis. The designers, who are both British, were feeling nostalgic and a bit homesick so they looked to old beachside photographs to inform their lineup, which they said is one of their most colorful collections to date.
They leaned into the old and new, utilizing a color palette consisting of royal blue, purple, yellow, olive red and navy that brought to mind Ralph Lauren and Cross Colours from the Nineties.
These colors lent new life to core items such as graphic T-shirts, hoodies and the McCarthy jacket, which Justin Bieber popularized. They showed these signatures alongside cargo pants with minimal pockets, boxy button-up shirts, cotton parkas and shirt jackets. A long, hooded, colorblocked parka that grazed the ground was a standout.
The suit or matching set was another primary component. Models wore tracksuits, relaxed cotton suits and boxy shirts styled with slightly baggy pants. It was a nice take on tailored pieces that felt hip but not too trendy.
Death to Tennis is known for its original prints and this season it presented a camo pattern, a polo motif and a paint-splattered print.
Last season, the brand put on a

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Kenneth Nicholson Men’s Spring 2019

Kenneth Nicholson pulls from a varied bag of interests. The Houston native is as motivated by 18th-century dress as he is by outfits from “Soul Train” and military uniforms — after attending the Academy of Art in San Francisco, Nicholson spent a one-year stint in the Navy before he was honorably discharged. But his overall interest is in expanding the boundaries of men’s wear.
“Historically, men haven’t been restricted to just a shirt and pants. They’ve had more options,” Nicholson said. “I like to edify people and shake things up.”
He divided his collection into three chapters. The first chapter was a stark white, which Nicholson said was void of color to express sadness. Models wore cotton and linen long-sleeved shirtdresses with subtle swing hems, white lace shirts paired with cream high-waisted pants, and a brocade jacket with an exaggerated lapel coupled with a matching skirt. References to royalty were sprinkled throughout the lineup. Some models wore sashes, others wore crowns and a couple of the more structured, beaded looks with mock necks, nipped waists and peplums, which were highlights from the collection, brought to mind regalness.
The second chapter, which signaled better memories and featured more color, was the strongest. Nicholson doubled

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N. Hoolywood Men’s Spring 2019

This season, the N. Hoolywood designer Daisuke Obana delivered a lineup inspired by Native American artist T.C. Cannon, whose work he discovered during a recent trip to Arizona.
“The lines and the bold colors in the artist’s paintings were what drew me to them,” he said backstage, pointing to an array of blanket-like pieces, often paired with matching oversize shorts. This graphic inspiration was seen in everything from cropped bomber jackets and knitwear with fringe across the chest to oversize pants.
An added surprise was Obana’s collaboration with sportswear brand Umbro. It spanned logo T-shirts, long-sleeved soccer jerseys and elongated coats adorned with oversize Umbro logos done up in bright colors with vertical lines that tied back to Cannon’s paintings.
With their mix of deconstruction and surprising proportions, Obana’s Japanese silhouettes seamlessly blended the worlds of artisanal and active sport.

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Parke & Ronen Men’s Spring 2019

Leave it to Parke & Ronen to transport tired, hot New Yorkers to a beach in Malibu on a Tuesday afternoon in July.
“It’s all about L.A., baby,” said codesigner Parke Lutter backstage before the show.
He and Ronen Jehezkel trotted out a lovely array of pastel colors, floral prints and retro graphic stripes on swimwear, coverups and short-sleeve sweaters.
“We threw in a little Eighties vibe — we were listening to the Go-Go’s,” Lutter said, adding that the silhouette this season was classic but modernized with a little higher waist and more of a boxy feel.
The sheer shirts and pajama sets spoke of the leisurely lifestyle while the sleeveless hooded sweatshirts pushed a more athletic vibe.
With a soundtrack that included Lady Gaga’s “Boys, Boys, Boys” and Rod Stewart’s “Do You Think I’m Sexy,” Parke & Ronen proved that even after 21 years, they can still get a crowd energized while building on a successful business.

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Wood House Army Men’s Spring 2019

Since starting his brand two years ago, Julian Woodhouse, a former first lieutenant in the U.S. Army, and husband and codesigner Kirill Kabachenko have sought to create a uniform for their fashion army each season. This time around, the uniform was a mixture of Eighties BMX suits as well as a more-ethereal feel inspired by the rebirth of a phoenix.
The duo had spent two months in Asia and Woodhouse said the vision for the season came to him during a meditation.
The use of silk — a first for the brand — in airy parkas and ultralight cargo pants helped add a spiritual side to the collection while the motor racing references gave the lineup a tough edge.
The color palette of oranges and burnt reds together with the painterly phoenix print also combined to give an Eastern feel.
For its runway debut, Wood House Army’s mix of spirituality, athleticism and street edge proved to be a successful formula.

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Feng Chen Wang Men’s Spring 2019

Feng Chen Wang thought about the word “half” and what it means for human connection.
The show started with an opening of the curtains, which streamed sunlight into the dark space and emphasized the collection’s vivid color palette, which Wang said was meant to convey a range of human emotions.
The opening looks came in an icy blue gradient — sad — and progressed into an iridescent green and a warm hot pink — happy. Things ended with shades of black and gray, which Wang said played on black and white and the idea of half, or yin and yang.
The garments were amalgamations of sportswear basics. Wang placed double collars on long trenchcoats and pieced together two Levi’s jackets to make one. She did the same thing with Converse sneakers by adding an extra sole and merging two sneaker halves together. An extra leg was added to jeans and the more dramatic pieces consisted of collared shirts and trenchcoats that were draped on top of each other and fell down to the floor.
Some of these pieces revealed the heart, another means to depict feelings. Wang discovered that different sentiments lead to different body temperatures and she presented PVC pieces to highlight the

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Dyne Men’s Spring 2019

Christopher Bevans has become skillful at morphing super high-tech fabrics and performance designs with fashion silhouettes that reflect today’s trends. And that was especially evident in his spring presentation for Dyne, which he titled “Future Nomad.”
“We’re bringing our love of the outdoors in the Pacific Northwest to the city we grew up in,” said the New York-born designer.

His lineup included a hybrid trenchcoat/anorak with side zippers that looked light as a feather yet had all the necessary performance elements.

Other standouts included an ultralight navy suit with micro-cargo pockets on the sleeves that doubled as an embellishment.

“It’s all about survival skills,” he said.

The use of tie-dye — this season’s omnipresent print — in technical fabrics complemented the painterly abstract print used in paneling strips.

Bevans also stood out from others this season by embedding his well-known near-field communication chip into the garments and allowing the invited show guests to place orders on the spot for pieces from the spring line. “You can get it in four weeks,” he said, before he ships to retail stores in January.

With American fashion’s propensity for performance athleticism, Bevans has been able to find the sweet spot between that and contemporary fashion.

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Hugo Spring 2019

It’s always big news in Berlin when Hugo Boss decides to stage an event in the German capital during Fashion Week. Yet the decision to return with Hugo after a hiatus of seven years was primarily driven by the city itself. Not only was Berlin’s techno culture and “creative energy and eclectic street style” a key influence for the collection this season, but “with its very unique mix of fashion, art, music, literature and tech, it’s a good eco-system to take a brand like Hugo to the next level,” Boss chief executive officer Mark Langer told WWD prior to the show.
And what better place to do that than in the original home of techno, Motorwork, a gargantuan industrial space that Hugo transformed into a dark and gritty Nineties rave environment. The decade also figured strongly in the men’s and women’s looks on the runway, especially in terms of the prints based on ripped and collaged Rave posters or period album artwork, and the oversized, wide-shouldered, tailored silhouette for both genders derived from a Nineties Boss archive piece. However, that jacket and coat silhouette and baggy tailored pants were customized with DIY flair. Drawstrings were used to create new volumes and

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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Dior Moves Spring Show a Day Ahead

EARLY BIRDS: Christian Dior, typically the first big name to open Paris Fashion Week in recent years, has moved its show ahead one day, to Sept. 24, safeguarding that distinction.
The venue and time have yet to be finalized, but it is likely to be in the early afternoon. The Paris shows go through Oct. 2.
Gucci had previously revealed that it would do a one-off showing in Paris on the evening of Sept. 24. The event is to mark the crescendo of a three-part homage to France conceived by the Italian brand’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, who paraded his resort collection in Arles. Gucci began its ode to France starting with its pre-fall advertising campaign, which harks back to that country circa 1968, when student marches and riots sparked popular rebellions against military and bureaucratic elites.
While foregoing a show in Milan for the season, Gucci is planning a special event to be held at its Hub venue on Sept. 19, the second day of Milan Women’s Fashion Week, scheduled to run Sept. 18 to 24.

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Dundas RTW Spring 2019

“Urban, funky, jungle chic,” said Peter Dundas, who for spring combined dressy pieces with sporty fare, such as cropped hoodies bearing the brand’s black panther logo, or T-shirts.
The mood was full-on Eighties, from the Debbie Harry-inspired fringed biker jackets with zebra lapels to the bold-shouldered minidresses in a mix of animal prints, including a sequin camo mixed with black lace in a panther motif. Not forgetting a whole lotta gold.
The main silhouette was short, sexy and embellished with a couture feel that at times veered into outre territory. The faulty footwear — punky, strappy animal-print sandals inspired by a photo Dundas saw of Siouxsie Sioux — was distracting, with some of the models hobbling along the runway. (Granted, the label is still very young, with limited budgets, but bare feet would have worked better.)
Dévoré velvet, jacquard treatments and flocking were used to create the effect of a second layer on some of the dresses. “Like with the panther: when you look closer, it has spots,” Dundas explained.
There were some fun ideas, like the asymmetric, hot-hued satin dresses accessorized with black lace shorts and cropped asymmetric tops. A minidress in a blend of pink fringe and silver embroidery was also cute.
Sex

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Ludovic de Saint Sernin Men’s Spring 2019

Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s spring collection, the third for his label, was called “Summertime Sadness,” meant to evoke a teen’s melancholy upon leaving a beautiful holiday with an unrequited crush.
The sensual, tight lineup of well-crafted androgynous silhouettes was made of fabrics the designer sourced in Japan. Highlights included a cropped light blue denim jacket with matching low-slung lace-up jeans, a coral-color fluid blouse and trousers, and a black strapless top with languid pants.
De Saint Sernin riffed on his best-selling eyelet briefs for a bralette, and accessorized the line with ceramic charms.
“Most of the collection sells to women,” said the designer, who was a finalist for this year’s LVMH Prize. “I was very niche, this young designer starting out in Paris. And it just put a light on me that was very amazing. I’m super grateful.”
There’s little doubt that the spotlight will keep intensifying.

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Kenzo Men’s Spring 2019

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have turned their performance presentations for Kenzo into something of a tradition. Their coed spring show was no exception, with floral suspensions, a brass band and a laser light show transforming the basement of the Maison de la Mutualité conference center into a magic grotto.
Unfortunately, the clothes they showed didn’t live up to the setting. The brand’s aesthetic, once synonymous with jungle prints and Asian references, has skewed increasingly eclectic of late, with kitschy cool designs that reference the designers’ Californian upbringing.
This lineup was ostensibly informed by summer ceremonies: “gatherings of all sorts and the jubilation of rituals, occasions where New-Romantic hedonists meet British wedding goers and all the in-betweens,” the duo said in their show notes.
Perhaps it was the time slot — the last show on the last day of a marathon men’s fashion week in Paris — but it was hard to pinpoint even a trace of that theme, except for the graphic rose pattern that was a recurrent motif.
Rather, the men’s lineup revolved around a sporty silhouette grounded in acid-bright colors and oversized volumes. A vibrant blue suit with extra-large drawstring pants was paired with a trompe-l’oeil T-shirt depicting an open shirt

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Clot Men’s Spring 2019

Clot pulled the cool crowd – the likes of Don Crawley, Sacai’s Chitose Abe and Francesco Ragazzi from Palm Angels – for its latest Paris presentation in the city’s Marais district.  The design duo installed a series of makeshift stands and food stalls to approximate the atmosphere of the iconic Temple and Market streets in Hong Kong’s Kowloon district.
Edison Chen said he and his partner Kevin Poon are scouting a permanent retail space in Paris. “Our L.A. store is opening in two weeks and then we have Paris, Tokyo, New York and San Francisco,” he said.
The Hong Kong-based streetwear label, which this year is celebrating its 15th anniversary, presented updates on its “bread and butter” – silk pajamas in their own prints. “Obviously, we’re Chinese, so the DNA of us is wearing stuff like this,” said Chen.
Also on display was their new T-shirt collection with reworked Asian icons and graphics including a “mind, body and soul” print; travel bags designed in collaboration with Readymade; and a capsule of pieces in custom-made fabrics including military-inspired jackets in a mix of camo and stripes.
Clot also presented a capsule by Pauly Bonomelli, the Australian artist who rose to fashion fame making custom clothing

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Ann Demeulemeester Men’s Spring 2019

A romantic vibe infused this full-on coed, gender-bending collection filled with loose garments, black flowers and veiled straw hats. It also juxtaposed fabrics, such as silk, lace, linen and leather in breezy silhouettes, and injected hues like pink into Ann Demeulemeester’s traditionally black-and-white color code.
The brand’s creative director Sébastien Munier said he had in mind symbolism, which was birthed in the 19th century when artists pushed back against the industrial revolution.
“Some dreamers, like poets, wanted to express a certain beauty, a certain decadence,” he said, citing in particular the French painter Odilon Redon, whose work was filled with symbolism, and the main character in Joris-Karl Huysmans’ book “À rebours” — a reclusive aesthete and antihero.
It was this extreme idea of beauty that Munier wanted to channel, and it entailed contrasts. Of the spring collection he said: “It is a mix of poor fabric and very rich fabric, and there is a kind of clash in between.” Take for instance the loose white shirt overlayed with a black lace top.
Striped silk, generally used for linings, peaked out from trouser legs or became the main fabric of suiting and shorts, for an inside-out effect.
Genders fused, as a male model sported a knee-length pink

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Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Spring 2019

Boris Bidjan Saberi brushed away the superfluous with his spring collection, training his sights — and design skills — on clothing in its purest forms. With achromatopsia in mind, an unpronounceable term for colorblindness, he worked a palette reduced to tones of grays, blacks and whites. The setting? A raw cement venue. In this pared-down universe, Bidjan Saberi showed what he could do — an awful lot.
Starting with the simplest silhouette, the first look was, in his words, “just a shirt with a back seam, that’s it, just the width of the fabric.” Two long streams of matte, black ribbon — he called it tape — trailed behind. This was what he used to cover seams.
Black coats were outlined by this seam-covering fabric tape, adding a new dimension as well as the optical illusion of something like leather panels. Sleeves were slit open and left to hang over the arms, for a cape-like effect — very cool. Shirts were long, almost becoming dresses, while pants were often short. A long, chunky knit sweater — though less chunky than in springs past — stretched below the knees.
He introduced a new accessory — not a backpack, because it could be worn in

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Walter Van Beirendonck Men’s Spring 2019

Walter Van Beirendonck titled his quirky collection for spring Wild Is the Wind, and wild it was — with skeleton, donkey and bird prints, V signs for peace, clogs and slogans like “Trans Human,” “Hell to the Liars” and “Riot!” Often a man with a message, many of the Belgian designer’s trademarks popped up again this season.
Deconstruction, for instance, abounded, starting with the first look that included a skimpy vest made of lemon-yellow webbing and patches. One featured an imaginary polka-dotted creature with the words “loving the alien” and another read: “It’s only a story/it’s not real/don’t Worry/there IS a happy ENDING.”
The webbing, bringing to mind fetishism, workmen’s garb and streetwear, decorated many garments. And often that was blended with more sartorial elements. Take, for example, the checkered suit featuring orange webbing.
In hallmark Van Beirendonck style, every piece was finely crafted, with standouts including outerwear, such as raincoats, suit jackets and bombers. Sometimes, though, the riot of prints, patterns and colorblocking stole the show.

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Spirit Animals Converge at Valentino Spring 2019 Men’s Show

ANIMAL MAGNETISM: Valentino’s front row was a veritable jungle, crawling with animals in body — and in spirit. Pierpaolo Piccioli asked four famous friends of the house — A$ AP Ferg, Nas, Keith Ape and Syd tha Kyd — to reveal their spirit animal, and he used the beasts as motifs on clothing and accessories in the patterned, logo-ed and color-packed men’s collection.
“My spirit is the black panther — a strong, fast, powerful animal,” said A$ AP Ferg, who certainly stood out in the crowd on Wednesday afternoon. He was wearing a canary yellow suit and bedecked in diamonds from his front teeth down to his wrists and fingers.
“I change them every time I change my outfits,” said the musician of the sparkling crowns on his teeth. “They’re white gold with diamonds. I was going to go for yellow gold, to match my outfit, but then decided against it.”
He said he’s been working with Tiffany & Co. on jewelry, such as pendants and bracelets, and is also getting to work on a new album with a “huge producer, who the world loves,” although he wouldn’t give up the name.
“I’m a lion, I rule the jungle,” said fellow front-row guest Nas, who has

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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Dondup Men’s Spring 2019

Urban trekking was the theme at Dondup, as the design team added a utilitarian twist to men’s citywear clothing, experimenting with materials in a shift from technical performance for a collection that was casual with a touch of sportswear. One example was the checked, boxy field jacket with a glass-like coating, which added brilliancy to the colors. The poplin, deconstructed suit was paired with a hooded shirt in chambray, in a nod to ath-leisure.
Dondup reedited its storied Tyvek material from the Fifties with an iridescent effect and a laminated texture used on a raincoat and a maxi fanny pack. Sweatshirts were treated to have a spongy effect and a leather jacket was in Naplak, a lacquered napa generally used in footwear. Colors ranged from royal blue to lime, as well as earthy tones and black.
Denim was done in classic shapes in pure vintage and black, or with chalk coatings. The material used for denim labels, called Jacron, was employed in garment-dyed accessories, such as the green backpack.

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Prada Men’s Spring 2019

Prada’s been splashing the euros: Earlier this month it opened a whizz-bang new industrial complex in Tuscany — and more are on the way — so the brand has got to sell, sell, sell. The collection that Miuccia Prada showed Sunday evening underlined that: The clothes may have been connected in spirit to the women’s resort, but this collection was more about commerce than anything else.
Prada said she was seeking a “more elegant” style for her man, something youthful yet discreet, adding that she’s fed up with baggy sportswear and streetwear. “The silhouette is very lean, clean and elegant,” she said before the show. “I’ve put a lot of different pieces together — serious ones, fun ones, all sorts — but the goal was to construct, to define a youthful, contemporary elegance. They’re simple pieces, and I wanted them to make sense.”
She took a similar tack with the accessories, which ranged from nylon sacks with drawstring ties to big leather weekenders and smaller shoulder bags. Models held them with an iron grip over one shoulder as if to say, “No one’s snatching this Prada, baby,” as they walked past guests who were perched on big, transparent inflatable cubes, a special reedition of

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Neil Barrett Men’s Spring 2019

In an adventurous, sea and surf-faring mood, Neil Barrett, who has a thing about male uniforms, set out to explore the notion of contemporary masculinity, with the collection’s emblem a Hawaiian-style flower that was never girly.
The designer worked photographic treatments of anemones onto utilitarian macs, T-shirts and sweatshirts, placing them at the breast and shoulder in place of military emblems and medals.
Some of the prints had a strong Pop Art feel, others came graphically sliced, with shadowy black prints of the flowers staining a range of looks. But mainly it added a surf vibe, opening the gates for a strong water-sport theme.
Barrett in this highly wearable collection mixed his usual color palette of sand, beige, navy, gray and black with bright colors associated with surfwear.
His signature Nineties aesthetic was intact, folding in scuba underlayers and jackets inspired by the hi-tech dry suits worn by deep sea divers. The cut of the trenches, with their dropped shoulders and rounded shapes, were even based on their lines.
The designer sprinkled in sure-sell cargo pants cut like joggers, and cool dressier looks, like a gray tux with a Nineties fit.
Moving between urban and sportswear moods, the outerwear was ever strong and plentiful, with the

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Blindness Men’s Spring 2019

In a number of ways, the story told in Blindness’ spring collection was of the age-old girl-meets-boy variety.
Exploring the theme of first love, designers Kyu Shin and Ji Park siphoned the maelstrom of emotions triggered by falling in love for the first time into a romantic collection that cleverly riffed on its theme and took the nonbinary trend to new levels of sophistication and drama.
They gracefully intermingled masculine and feminine codes, borrowing details from ultra-manly military dress and elevating them with archly feminine touches. Army great coats were reincarnated in organza, with OTT frills appliquéd across the yoke and hem; a plaid-backed trench came with a scarf of organza ruffles; a frilled Inverness cape (see Sherlock Holmes) had a pretty floral-print capelet and lining, and tough denim sailor pants were worn with a soft blue tie-neck silk shirt.
This being a brand strong on gender fluidity, there were sheer black gowns, a full-length tartan dress, pie crust collars tied around necks, sheer hunting vests, leg of mutton sleeves on the suiting, and studded leather corsetry worn over elaborately cut striped shirts and frilly blouses. In all,
The charming, pearl-embellished eye masks worn by some models were a clever wink at their brand’s

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A-Cold-Wall Men’s Spring 2019

Samuel Ross’ brand A-Cold-Wall is continually seeking to expand the fashion vernacular by playing with new proportions and alternative ideas of beauty. Ross’ latest collection was presented as an immersive performance at the Old Truman Brewery that was conceptual — but not necessarily accessible.
Guests were advised to put on protective goggles, masks and earplugs monogrammed with the brand’s acronym that were handed out at the door. Wind turbines and haze created a doomed, dystopian atmosphere, and the show began with a group of actors wearing hooded smocks and chalk-painted skin storming down the runway. Models showcasing the collection followed.
Utilitarian sportswear has been the foundation of the brand and this season, Ross purged it of its traditional aesthetic. He took the basis of sportswear, deconstructed it and morphed each piece into new silhouettes. Included were cropped outerwear in thick layers of transparent PVC paired with pouches that wrapped across the bodies. Puffy vests were deconstructed and held together by seatbelt webbing and clip closures. He did the same with down jackets, which he dissected and laced back together with metallic silver leather with asymmetric sleeves, and cargo shorts and pants featured oversized pockets that distorted the silhouette.
“It’s really art,” Ross said

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Matthew Miller Men’s Spring 2019

When K-Swiss, the California-based footwear brand, approached Matthew Miller wanting to work on a collaboration, he had one condition: The resulting ready-to-wear had to be made using the technology he’d recently discovered that could turn garments destined for the landfill into new fabric.
“I discovered this (recycling) tech, but as a small designer, I wasn’t big enough to utilize it because it’s hydro-powered and we had to do a certain amount of (volume) to make it environmentally viable,” said Miller. Around the same time, he came upon a cache of about 10,000 band T-shirts that were destined for the landfill.
They were later funneled into the K-Swiss collaboration, a streetwear collection of mostly tracksuits and Ts that appeared on the catwalk along with the designer’s signature line.
For the main collection, Miller mined his background as a frequent flier at some of Britain’s most renowned late-Nineties clubs. “I wanted it to feel like an underground movement, almost like what a club scene would have been like 20 years ago, where you get all these different characters. But they’re all into one thing — the music or the scene,” he said.
Those ideas translated into a confident collection that felt more upbeat than previous seasons, with pops of neon or

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Simon Miller RTW Spring 2019

For American sportswear label Simon Miller, fewer pastimes are as American as race car driving. Designers Chelsea Hansford and Daniel Corrigan cited iconic late Sixties, early Seventies drag racers Steve McQueen, “Jungle” Jim Liberman and his backing partner, “Jungle Pam,” for inspiration into spring. “The looks she would wear to the tracks were the craziest,” Corrigan noted at a preview. “That’s the mood of the collection.”
They even shot the look book along a 1953 raceway, telling the story of driving through the mountains while flowers are blooming and ice is melting.
The theme led to neon jackets in crackled leather that referenced torn asphalt, techy sport separates, poppy floral prints and a big push on denim that included a new “013” high-rise slim crop fit. The brand is denim at heart, and ever since Hansford joined Corrigan in Los Angeles last year, it’s been given newfound attention. It’s also partly why the brand has switched to a June spring model; they’ll be able to show resort and spring together while traveling to New York less.
A colorful tire track print found on denim twinsets pulled together the season’s palette of sunny yellow, orange, red and blue. A sense of playfulness underscored saturated

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Kaia Gerber Combines Two Denim Trends for the Ultimate Spring Jacket

ESC: Dare to Wear, Kaia GerberKaia Gerber just put a cool, new twist on an old classic: the denim jacket.
In honor of the Levi’s x Karla 501 Day Celebration, the 145th birthday celebration for the brand’s…

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Kaia Gerber Combines Two Denim Trends for the Ultimate Spring Jacket

ESC: Dare to Wear, Kaia GerberKaia Gerber just put a cool, new twist on an old classic: the denim jacket.
In honor of the Levi’s x Karla 501 Day Celebration, the 145th birthday celebration for the brand’s…

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Books of The Times: With ‘Spring,’ Karl Ove Knausgaard’s Latest Project Comes Into Focus

In the third of four books addressed to his youngest daughter, Knausgaard returns to form, and to ruthlessness, writing to fight a familial legacy of alienation from the world.
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Spring Parts Curtain on American Ballet Theatre

Spring, the downtown creative hub that offers collaborative workspaces and a business club, prides itself on introducing members to new experiences. That includes everything from Danish star chef René Redzepi’s Noma pop-up restaurant and Caviar Kaspia’s temporary residency, to Tribeca Film Festival’s virtual arcade of VR and augmented-reality exhibits and experiences.
In that spirit of discovery, Spring on Friday said it has partnered with American Ballet Theatre to host a series of events with the goal of inspiring new audiences and cultivating the next generation of ballet enthusiasts and supporters.

Starting this month, Spring Place will lift the curtain on the ballet to reveal the spirit and practice of American Ballet Theatre to its members and the downtown community. Spring members will have access to the ballet company, which is working to preserve and extend its classical repertoire. American Ballet Theatre artistic director Kevin McKenzie said dancers are eager to “demystify the art form at events for the Spring community of art enthusiasts.”

Programming starting in May will include a panel discussion about peak performance in artists and athletes featuring McKenzie, HBO Sports executive vice president Peter Nelson, and sports psychology consultant and former NFL director of education and player engagement Dr. Lauren Loberg. There

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Iceberg to Show Men’s Spring Collection in London

LONDON BOUND:  Iceberg goes to the U.K.
The Italian contemporary brand, controlled by manufacturing company Gilmar, is showing its men’s spring 2019 collection during London Collections: Men.
The runway show will take place on June 8 in a still undisclosed location.
Along with unveiling its latest men’s effort, creative director James Long will also showcase a selection of looks from Iceberg women’s pre-fall lineup.
Long joined the Iceberg men’s division in November 2015 and then, in August 2016, he was tapped by the brand to succeed Arthur Arbesser at the helm of the women’s line.
Last February, Iceberg presented its women’s fall collection, along with a few looks from the men’s range, with a runway show in the streets of Milan.

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10 Of The Best Beauty Buys From Sephora’s VIB Spring Sale

Makeup and skincare worth your time and money.
Style and Beauty – Fashion News, Celebrity Style and Fashion Trends
FASHION NEWS UPDATE-Visit Shoe Deals Online today for the hottest deals online for shoes!

Olivia Munn Celebrates Nature With an Epic Spring Outfit

ESC: Dare to Wear, Olivia MunnOlivia Munn is a natural goddess in her floral ensemble.
Earlier this week, the star attended a party honoring Eva Longoria’s Walk of Fame star, wearing a sheer floral dress, a green…

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Meghan Markle Brings a Splash of Spring With New Striped Look

Meghan MarkleIf clothes could talk, Meghan Markle’s latest outfit would shout: “Spring has sprung!”
The soon-to-be bride stepped out alongside her royal beau Prince Harry for a joint…

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Promise Project to Hold Spring Fund-raiser on May 1

CHANGING LIVES: Promise Project will host its 11th annual Beautiful Promise cocktail party on May 1, co-chaired by Cindy Weber Cleary, Lori Buchbinder and Terry Darland. The event takes place at the Metropolitan Pavilion, 123 West 18th Street, in New York from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m.
The evening will once again feature ABC’s Bill Ritter as emcee.
Guests will have the opportunity to bid on silent auction items such as accessories and jewelry from Versace, Valentino, Jennifer Meyer, Ileana Makri, Alexis Bittar and Chanel, as well as experiences such as “Daily Show” tickets.
One-of-a-kind items and experiences will also be available for bidding on Charity Buzz when the auction goes live on April 24, such as a private tour of MoMA and Yankees tickets, as well as a lunch with Nicole Miller and tickets to a “Shark Tank” taping.
Dana Buchman, board chair, explained that since the charity started, they’ve transformed the lives of more than 1,200 children and their families thanks to the generosity of their sponsors, board and benefit committee.
Promise Project, in collaboration with Columbia University Medical Center and New York Presbyterian Hospital, is a comprehensive program committed to helping impoverished children living with learning disabilities get the support they need to succeed.
 

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Your Spring Wardrobe Staple, Based on Your April Horoscope

ESC: April Horoscopes, Olivia Munn, CancerThe month of April is full of unexpected blessings.
“You need to take this month moment by moment, not even day by day,” spiritual advisor Lisa Greenfield told E! News. “If…

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Jennifer Garner and Kids Join Ben Affleck in Hawaii Over Spring Break

Ben Affleck, Jennifer Garner Jennifer Garner and her kids are spending Spring Break and Easter in Hawaii with Ben Affleck.
Since their 2015 split, the actors have made it a priority to co-parent the kids and have…

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Your Spring Wardrobe Staple, Based on Your April Horoscope

ESC: April Horoscopes, Olivia Munn, CancerThe month of April is full of unexpected blessings.
“You need to take this month moment by moment, not even day by day,” spiritual advisor Lisa Greenfield told E! News. “If…

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Spring games guide 2018: 12 reasons to stay indoors this season

Spring games guide 2018: 12 reasons to stay indoors this seasonSpring is a time of rebirth, and for the games industry, a great time to launch a huge product or three. ‘God of War’ is shaping up to be an early contender for Game of the Year. Now a father, Kratos must mentor his young son and manage his legendary temper as the two explore a strange Scandinavian world.



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Your Ultimate Spring Break Packing List

Branded: Target Spring BreakYou look forward to Spring Break every year because, let’s face it, it’s the time of your life.
Maybe you’re jetting off to Miami Beach with a handful of your best babes, or…

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Your Ultimate Spring Break Packing List

Branded: Target Spring BreakYou look forward to Spring Break every year because, let’s face it, it’s the time of your life.
Maybe you’re jetting off to Miami Beach with a handful of your best babes, or…

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Peace Love World, LLC – SPRING SAVINGS SALE! SAVE 25% Off Site Wide & Free Shipping On Orders Over $100 At PeaceLoveWorld.com! Use Code: SPRINGY At Checkout! Click Here!

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4 Spring Pasta Recipes: Make a Meal of the Season’s Freshest Produce

Vibrant green vegetables are starting their stride down the seasonal runway; tossed with a tangle of pasta, they stretch further to make affordable, sumptuous meals. These four fresh recipes from chefs around the country will easily feed a crowd.
WSJ.com: Lifestyle

SHOPPING DISCOUNT UPDATE:

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9 Kids’ Choice Awards Style Trends You’ll Be Seeing All Spring

ESC: Kristen Bell, Nickelodeon Kids Choice Awards 2018Take notes!
The 2018 Kids’ Choice Awards is not the fashion event that is the Oscars or Met Gala, but there are style lessons to be learned. The casual red carpet offers outfit…

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9 Kids’ Choice Awards Style Trends You’ll Be Seeing All Spring

ESC: Kristen Bell, Nickelodeon Kids Choice Awards 2018Take notes!
The 2018 Kids’ Choice Awards is not the fashion event that is the Oscars or Met Gala, but there are style lessons to be learned. The casual red carpet offers outfit…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

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Saturday Savings: Olivia Culpo’s H&M Top Is $15 and Perfect for Spring!

ESC: Olivia Culpo, Saturday SavingsA white top and jeans have never looked so good.
Olivia Culpo continues to prove that mastering basics is the first step to an incredible wardrobe. On a casual day, the style star wore a…

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Saturday Savings: Olivia Culpo’s H&M Top Is $15 and Perfect for Spring!

ESC: Olivia Culpo, Saturday SavingsA white top and jeans have never looked so good.
Olivia Culpo continues to prove that mastering basics is the first step to an incredible wardrobe. On a casual day, the style star wore a…

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Mindy Kaling, Gigi Hadid and More Master Mixing Prints for Spring

ESC: Mindy Kaling, Mixed PrintsThere are no rules to mixing and matching prints and patterns.
But if you want to look as flawless as Mindy Kaling, Gigi Hadid, Yara Shahidi and Greta Gerwig in their takes on the tricky…

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Alexa Chung Fetes Superga Spring Capsule

CLASSIC KICKS: Plant-based restaurant The Butcher’s Daughter dubs itself the “vegetable slaughterhouse,” and last night Superga and Alexa Chung closed down the joint for a private party to toast the launch of their capsule collection together.
The shoe brand asked Chung to design an exclusive capsule, which makes tweaks to some of Superga’s classics for spring, including the addition of a toe cap on some styles and an increased height on the high top. Fabrications include satin and terry towel in colors such as burgundy, sky blue, green and off-white.
“We approached this very much as a passion project, an homage to Superga and their classic sneaker,” Chung said. “It’s the shape that I love, so rather than amend the last and make the sole crazy or do anything wild, we just did really subtle additions that I think make it look really luxe-y.”
It was also important that the shoes coexist with Chung’s namesake label, she added.
“It came about because they asked me to collaborate but it had to sit within our own brand and our online shop. So knowing the timing of when it would come out, we made an effort to make it. Also, sneakers are something we don’t make

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Urban Zen RTW Spring 2018

Roaming through Donna Karan’s Urban Zen store, where the designer showed her latest in-season collection, is a transporting experience. Furniture, jewelry and art are culled from Haiti, Papua New Guinea, Bali and Africa, among other artisanal communities, in a vast curation of culture. It ties with the brand ethos focused on life (hers, specifically), travel and effortless dressing through it all.
Karan isn’t shy about the personal outfitting aspect, either. “I’m selfish, this is mine, nobody else’s,” she says with a laugh. “If other people want it, great, but I’m doing my own wardrobe!” It’s a highly enviable one. For her upcoming trip to Africa, she made easy-to-wear jumpsuits, tunics and dresses that transition from short to long with a hidden button. A wrap skirt maintained great versatility, with options to wear undone, tied at the front with a little bunching, or to the side for a wrapped effect. Featherweight statement necklaces made from combinations of leather, rubber and suede topped these off, while belt bags added a nomadic touch. Karan introduced shoes as well, ranging from low, wraparound sandals to high boots in lightweight suede.
For summertime in the Hamptons, she proposed a palette of black and white for free-flowing poplin

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Carroll on Wilson at spring training: ‘Awesome’

Seahawks coach Pete Carroll says he has no problem with quarterback Russell Wilson taking part in spring training with the Yankees, saying Thursday, “it’s awesome.”
www.espn.com – NFL

Tommy Hilfiger Spring 2018

To say that there were many moving parts to Tommy Hilfiger’s spring TommyNow see-now-buy-now extravaganza would be not only a bad pun — the show, titled Drive, was race-car themed — but a massive understatement. An extraordinary amount of things have to fall in line to make these massive shows a success — it’s astonishing and remarkable that they have. Then again, Hilfiger runs a well-oiled machine.
Hilfiger has managed to capitalize on the see-now-buy-now moment in a way no other designer has by committing to it on another level from a production, design and delivery perspective, and by making it a social/digital tidal wave triggered by the power of Gigi Hadid, who collaborates on the Tommy x Gigi capsule collection. One hundred percent of the men’s, women’s and Gigi collection were available to purchase online the second they hit the runway. By the following morning, the collections will be shoppable in 20,000 physical points of sale. The whole shebang has dovetailed serendipitously with the revival of streetwear, logomania and Nineties nostalgia, which Hilfiger has major rights to — he was one of the original kings of logo-fied street gear the first time around twentysomething years ago. Oh, and earlier this month

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Rich Minimalism: Density the New Gauge of Luxury for Spring 2019

PARIS — Fabric collections at Première Vision Paris signaled a shift to a more delicate and refined mood for spring 2019, with a range of cloudy, hazy and powdery surfaces and gently nuanced fabrics that were soft on the eye.
Other directions for the season include “rich minimalism” explored through fabrics and leathers offering a syrupy, dense and suave suppleness.
Expect less visual excess. “It’s a season where there is a place for simplicity, with noble plains, and sophisticated mélanges. Density is a gauge of luxury,” said Ariane Bigot, deputy fashion director at PV Paris.
“Patterns are worked in a simplified way, but are never boring. Geometrics are dynamic and joyful,” continued Bigot, who also highlighted “new ornamentation” among trends.
“Even the jacquard specialists are demonstrating a new simplicity, offering exceptional monochromes that are sober and majestic.”
The hybridization trend continues to gather steam, with unexpected contrasts, and refined mixes of synthetics and raw and rustic, vegetal materials.
Undulating, hazy stripes and patterns draw the eye and are joyful and delicate.
Shiny fabrics and metallics are no longer limited to the red carpet, with bold modern spins surfacing in the sportswear, men’s wear and casualwear categories.
Wet “aquatic” looks, plastic-y finishes and jellified surfaces are key for accessories.
Meanwhile, “Infinite”

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Beauty Care Choices – Free Beauty Filled Spring Bag with $100 order

Get a free Beauty Filled Spring Bag valued at $ 30 with any order over $ 100. Use code "SPRING18".
Code: SPRING18
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Beauty Care Choices – Free Beauty Filled Spring Bag with $100 order

Get a free Beauty Filled Spring Bag valued at $ 30 with any order over $ 100. Use code "SPRING18".
Code: SPRING18
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Beauty Care Choices – Free Beauty Filled Spring Bag with $100 order

Get a free Beauty Filled Spring Bag valued at $ 30 with any order over $ 100. Use code "SPRING18".
Code: SPRING18
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Beauty Care Choices – Free Beauty Filled Spring Bag with $100 order

Get a free Beauty Filled Spring Bag valued at $ 30 with any order over $ 100. Use code "SPRING18".
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Paul Smith Marks New Direction With Spring Campaign

STARTING AFRESH: Sir Paul Smith is marking the start of a new era at his label with a spring campaign that aims to channel the designer’s trademark irreverence.
Featuring Polish model Malgosia Bela and Ben Allen, the campaign takes its inspiration from the neon signs and the sandy beaches of the South of France. Black-and-white images of the sea provide the backdrop for bright colors and prints, including Hawaiian shirts and a tuna motif inspired by Smith’s many visits to the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo.
“Bright color and confident use of print are two things that lots of people know and love Paul Smith for,” said the designer. “This felt particularly true in my spring 2018 collection, where the ocean-inspired print was so prominent in many of my designs for both men and women. For the campaign it felt right to bring the brightness and optimism to the fore. It feels like we all need a bit of color right now.”
Smith has returned to the creative helm of his newly restructured company and said it was important to launch a campaign that telegraphs the brand’s message.
“I’ve been in this industry for a long time, but I’ve never known it to move

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Afef Jnifen Returns to Modeling Roots for Spring Campaigner Linda Farrow

THE EYES HAVE IT: It has been a while since Afef Jnifen headlined a modeling campaign but she agreed to get in front of the camera for Linda Farrow’s spring video.
The poolside set-up is meant to be reminiscent of the jet-set glamour Slim Aarons so often captured in his photographs. Jnifen, an actress and TV presenter, said she had two reasons for returning to her modeling roots. “First of all, Linda Farrow is my favorite eyewear brand since forever. Then I was happy and honored to work with Mariano Vivanco,” she said.
Vivanco’s year is off to a racing start. “He’s currently shooting covers for Harper’s Bazaar U.S. Vogue Russia/Japan/Brazil/Spain, GQ U.K., Man About Town and Ponystep,” a spokesman said. The lensman also handled Mavi’s new spring ad campaign and recently shot Fenty Beauty by Rihanna, Estée Lauder, Kat von D Beauty and Ralph & Russo, among others. For Linda Farrow, Vivanco packed up his camera for a private villa in Europe. While models Cici Xiang and Arnaud Lemaire are often front-and-center lolling by the pool, Jnifen looked a little elusive hidden behind Linda Farrow sunglasses and holding a small dog in the distance. Farrow also makes a cameo.
During her modeling career, Jnifen

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Xuan Couture Spring 2018

Absent from the runways for the better part of this decade, Xuan-Thu Nguyen took the long road home, or at least back to Paris’ couture where she had first shown in 2009.
This summer collection marked her third since her return last year under the label Xuan, and in her own admission, a darker collection than is customary. The idea of a road stretching out was there, in volumes figured as deflated lengths of fabric, but it was more metaphoric than biographic. “Everything you do takes time, and that’s a bad thing. It’s the way it is,” she said after the show.
Those with long memories will recall a delicate palette and floral elements, and perhaps even the “fox” stole, her take on fur transmuted into a lovely floral wreath — and here they were. As a child, the Dutch-Vietnamese designer had wanted to become a florist, so her clothes were bouquets.
Now, they were delivered with contemporary touches. One puffy posy was a Xuan version of a puffer jacket. A snowy coatdress was festooned with white ruffles. Later, an LBD had stretched petal shapes tumbling down the shoulder — the shadow of a bloom.
Back to that leave of absence: It hadn’t been

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Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Spring 2018

Jean Paul Gaultier’s tailoring skill has often earned him comparisons with Yves Saint Laurent, but there’s another famous couturier to whom he owes a big debt.
The former enfant terrible of French fashion dedicated his spring haute couture collection to his former mentor Pierre Cardin. Flanked by Maryse Gaspard, his glamorous muse and head of haute couture, the 95-year-old was swarmed by television cameras as he arrived at the show.
Gaultier, whose first job was as Cardin’s studio assistant, noted the Space Age designer has broken every rule in the book. “Cardin was always free and he has remained a free man who does what he pleases,” he said.
Thus inspired, Gaultier put on a soundtrack of jangly pop and loopy space tunes, and set off on a trip to the Swinging Sixties, with outfits named Twiggy Pop, Yellow Submarine or Cardinella.
He had clearly been boning up on the Cardin monograph published by Assouline last fall. Though the references weren’t overt — no Bubble dresses or A-line minis — his influence could be felt in monochrome outfits sliced to produce kinetic effects, and sharp-shouldered belted jackets with exaggerated peplums.
Above all, Gaultier appeared to share the veteran designer’s love of fringe. Whereas Cardin is

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Rami Kadi Couture Spring 2018

For the customer who wants the next level in personalization, Rami Kadi offers just the thing. Not only are his designs made to fit, but they were made with ticker-tape embroideries to put one’s own details in view.
“Many of my clients asked me to embroider their names on their bridal veils, or even hashtags, because everyone is on social media these days,” he said, pointing out the black bands were all detachable. On the silhouettes showcased at Le Meurice, these read #RKSS18, #COUTURESS18 and #RAMIKADI while a table displayed more options such as #METOO, #WHYWEWEARBLACK but also #PROVOKE and #BRIDETOBE.
But while it resembled the branded elastic waistbands, the Swarovski seed beads and crystal embroidery used in the two hand-spans of tape going across the front of his sweatshirt took over 20 hours to create. On one ruffled gown, there were at least a dozen feet curling around the edges of each layer.
Style-wise, Kadi tapped into the elevated street style vibe du jour. But urban inspirations were mixed in with gusto to the techniques of his craft, resulting in a parka filled with angel hair thread, crystal-encrusted detachable hoods, a floral parka worn with a fishnet skirt and a hoodie richly embroidered

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Roberto Bolle, Kendall Jenner Front Tod’s Spring Campaign, Attend Milan Men’s Presentation

BELLE AND BOLLE: Too bad Roberto Bolle couldn’t do one of his Grand Jetés at Tod’s chaotic presentation, held once again at the exquisite Villa Necchi in Milan. The Italian ballet star was literally squeezed between buyers, the press and TV cameras trying to see the new men’s collection — not to mention hordes of revelers sipping the free drinks and nibbling the canapés — with almost no room to breathe, let alone dance. Ever the pro, Bolle took the sardine-like conditions in stride and calmly and politely talked about the shoot of Tod’s spring campaign in Malibu, Calif., with Kendall Jenner, as images from the video were projected at the entrance. Jenner opened and closed Tod’s women’s spring runway show in September.
“It was fun and a pleasant break from a very intense period. It gave me a breather from the hours of training and tension, an escape from the daily sacrifice and sweat theater life requires,” said Bolle, who is seen dancing on the beach and warmly embracing a fresh-faced Jenner in the video. “These are fragments of Italian inspiration and we want to show the Italian style in the world.  It’s a joyful campaign and I think this

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Spring 2018 Fashion Trend: Casual Satin

Designers worked light-catching satin into casual silhouettes for day.

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Milanoo.com Ltd

Spring 2018 Accessories Trend: Statement Earrings

Statement earrings for spring telegraph boldness, novelty and graphic punch.
 

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Men’s Spring 2018 Trend: Patch It Up

Ever more freewheeling, men’s wear boasts logos galore, streetwear and retro touches, plus bold prints.
 
Grooming by Amanda Wilson at Opus Beauty
Models: Aly N’Diaye and Andrew Muns at Red Model Management; Clement Cornebize and Luke Blake at Wilhelmina

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Genny to Launch Children’s Wear Capsule Collection for Spring 2018

THE GENNY PRINCESS: Daughters often clamor to wear their mothers’ dresses and Genny is listening.
The brand’s creative director Sara Cavazza Facchini is delivering a children’s wear capsule collection in time for the holiday season, inspired by her daughter Angelica’s request for a range of dresses worthy of a grownup.
Cavazza Facchini has worked on a 30-piece lineup of children’s wear, named Genny Princess. The range reinterprets the brand’s signature elements of plissé and one-shouldered dresses that defines the brand’s aesthetics.
“I had been thinking about it for some seasons, now. I developed a range of occasion dresses, which also include three floor-length gowns,” explained Cavazza Facchini.

Genny creative director Sara Cavazza Facchini with daughter Angelica. 
Courtesy Photo.

Designed in bright hues such as blue, gold, tangerine and mint as well as more toned-down colors such as nude and off-white, the capsule collection will bow for spring 2018. The full offering will debut in Genny’s flagship stores worldwide from February. Prices range from 200 to 1,000 euros.
For the holiday season, starting from Monday, a selection of eight pieces from the Genny Princess collection will be available on genny.com.
The first children’s wear collection is produced by Swinger International, the Italian apparel manufacturing group which acquired Genny in February

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Guess Taps Jennifer Lopez for Spring Campaign

NEW FACE: Looks like Jennifer Lopez’s next act will be appearing as the new face of Guess Inc. in its upcoming campaign.
The multihyphenate is set to appear in the Los Angeles denim firm’s spring 2018 campaign, photographed by Tatiana Gerusova and art directed by Guess cofounder Paul Marciano. This marks the first time Lopez and the company will be working together.
Lopez’s music video premiere earlier this month for her single “Amor, Amor, Amor” could have perhaps been a clue of her upcoming work with Guess. She sported a crop top from the company as one of her looks in the video.
The aesthetic of the campaign is Hollywood meets Las Vegas glitz, the latter being a nod to Lopez’s residency at the Planet Hollywood Resort and Casino in Vegas for her concert “Jennifer Lopez: All I Have,” which capped last December.
Lopez, in a statement, referenced her affinity for the brand starting from a young age.
“When I got the call from Paul Marciano asking me to become the new Guess girl, I was thrilled and excited to be a part of such an iconic brand that I have loved since I was a teenager,” Lopez said in a statement. “When I look

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Net-a-porter Takes Evolution Over Revolution Approach for Spring

LONDON — Net-a-porter has been rethinking the way it approaches its seasonal buys and shifting its attention away from the traditional fashion calendar and ephemeral trends, toward ideas that have been unfolding over several seasons, items that have social media mileage and buzzy new names in the contemporary market.
“The idea that each season we present the woman with a new vision of who she is going to be, is simply outdated for us,” said Lisa Aiken, the company’s retail fashion director, explaining that while the Net customer is always on the hunt for newness, she also has an intimate knowledge of her personal style and isn’t looking for radical shifts.
For spring, the retailer is standing behind a number of trends that have been developing over the last few seasons, including tailoring, bright colors and high glamour.
Tailoring has already taken off for fall; suits made up 30 percent of the company’s ready-to-wear buy for fall 2017 and to date, 6,000 blazers have been sold on the site. For spring, Net is planning to build on the trend’s burgeoning success, with tailored pieces in lighter fabrications such as linen and brighter colors.
The retailer has also been cautiously introducing Eighties or Nineties-inspired pieces,

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The Met Counts on Vatican for Costume Institute’s Spring Exhibition Pieces

LIKE A PRAYER: Some scholars and pundits contest that religion is the root of most of the conflict in the world, but that hasn’t deterred the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute from taking on “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination” as its spring exhibition.
The juxtaposition of fashion and masterworks of religious art will be designed to examine fashion’s ongoing engagement with the devotional practices and traditions of Catholicism. The Met has arranged to showcase a group of papal robes and accessories from the Vatican, highlighting the enduring influence of liturgical vestments on designers. A battery of designers — Thierry Mugler, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Thom Browne, Azzedine Alaïa, John Galliano for the House of Dior, Claire McCardell, Madeleine Vionnet, Isabel Toledo, Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino, Elsa Schiaparelli, Raf Simons for his own label and the House of Dior — will have their work on view.
The multilayered exhibition will be held at The Met Fifth Avenue in both the medieval galleries and the Anna Wintour Costume Center. The show will also be housed in the city’s northern regions at The Met Cloisters, creating a trio of distinct gallery locations. When the show opens, Met ticket holders will wander amid 50 ecclesiastical

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The Met Counts on Vatican for Costume Institute’s Spring Exhibition Pieces

LIKE A PRAYER: Some scholars and pundits contest that religion is the root of most of the conflict in the world, but that hasn’t deterred the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute from taking on “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination” as its spring exhibition.
The juxtaposition of fashion and masterworks of religious art will be designed to examine fashion’s ongoing engagement with the devotional practices and traditions of Catholicism. The Met has arranged to showcase a group of papal robes and accessories from the Vatican, highlighting the enduring influence of liturgical vestments on designers. A battery of designers — Thierry Mugler, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Thom Browne, Azzedine Alaïa, John Galliano for the House of Dior, Claire McCardell, Madeleine Vionnet, Isabel Toledo, Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino, Elsa Schiaparelli, Raf Simons for his own label and the House of Dior — will have their work on view.
The multilayered exhibition will be held at The Met Fifth Avenue in both the medieval galleries and the Anna Wintour Costume Center. The show will also be housed in the city’s northern regions at The Met Cloisters, creating a trio of distinct gallery locations. When the show opens, Met ticket holders will wander amid 50 ecclesiastical

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Toga RTW Spring 2018

Thanks to support from Amazon Fashion via its At Tokyo program, Yasuko Furuta presented her first show in Tokyo in 12 years, and it just so happened to coincide with her brand’s 20th anniversary. The designer said she views it as her job to always be creating new things, and therefore, she didn’t want to pull styles from her archives but wanted to create a collection that was as representative of her brand as possible. Her models descended via escalator to a curved runway set up on the ground floor of the National Art Center Tokyo. She added feminine detailing such as cinched waists and cropped lengths to men’s wear, while masculine shapes and tailoring was mixed into her women’s offering. Pleated skirts had a hole in the front for one leg to pass through, dresses had high slits or a single long sleeve, and trousers had wide legs and high waists. A series of subtly deconstructed suiting included jackets that were turned inside out or had cutout backs or lopped off sleeves. Furuta incorporated a variety of eye-catching textures, from clear vinyl and sheer mesh to plastic-y crinkle fabrics and a ruched metallic plaid.

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J Brand RTW Spring 2018

Staged in a sun-filled studio set with loads of green plants and wicker chairs on which the models lounged, it was easy to infer an organic, clean California aesthetic from J Brand’s spring collection. The collection’s jeans — many cropped with high waists, wide or straight legs in powdery pink, natural off-white and traditional blue indigo — will pair well with the pottery-loving, gluten- and dairy-free cool girl’s lifestyle. From jean jackets to white Ts to a black leather miniskirt, the shapes were mostly clean and classic with little to no whiskering and the only distressing a raw hem or two. For the first time, men’s was included in the presentation, with the guys playing perfect counterpart to the girls in skinny jeans and relaxed jackets in shades of white, gray and faded blue.

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5-Knot RTW Spring 2018

Ena Kizawa and Taketo Nishino mixed urban and rural influences for spring, showing sweet, pastel gingham skirts and floral blouses alongside slick, plasticky stirrup pants and sparkling crop tops in bright shades of magenta and lemon. For the most part, silhouettes were loose and easy, and chiffon and lace were paired with clear vinyl and metallic fabrics. The offering felt repetitive and would have benefited from a good edit.

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Hyke RTW Spring 2018

Elegant, modern and minimalist, Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara’s spring collection showed a polish and professionalism that can only be gained through experience. They showed largely monotone looks in neutral shades of khaki, brown, black and white, with some snakeskin print thrown in for contrast. Long, pleated organza skirts were worn over slim pants with slits at the back of the ankles, and jackets were layered over calf-length dresses. A collaboration with The North Face produced outdoorsy anorak jackets in extralong or ultracropped lengths, providing the perfect contrast to the contemporary urban aesthetic of the other pieces.

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AG RTW Spring 2018

AG’s team of designers was inspired by Joan Didion for spring — everything from her personal style and writing, down to certain descriptive words she used in interviews. Didion’s balance of vulnerable writing against a fearlessness in speaking her mind translated into silhouettes that balanced masculine and feminine design, as in a boxy utilitarian jacket, men’s-inspired shirting and rigid denim with raw hems, paint splatter and embroidery. The subdued color palette of washed-down blues, desert tones and green further referenced her writings on nature.

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Enhance RTW Spring 2018

Masakazu Takeguchi’s first show for Tokyo Fashion Week had a rock concert vibe, with the entire audience standing, the closest members just inches from the raised, narrow runway. The clothes followed a similar vein, with long fringe hanging from tank tops, skirts, trousers and shorts. All-black looks included jeans splattered in white paint, an open-knit sweater and dresses with uneven hems. While overall the look was very street, a variety of blazers and tailored separates added polish.

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Mikio Sakabe RTW Spring 2018

Mikio Sakabe has long been one of Japan’s favorite avant-garde brands, and the spring offering was no exception. Now designed by the founder and his wife, Shueh Jen-Fang, its latest collection featured quirky takes on colorful Eighties power suits. V-neck buttoned dresses were layered over ruffled blouses, and skirts and jacket sleeves were voluminous to the max. The looks were complemented by extreme platform shoes, causing the models to step gingerly down the runway. The show closed with a coat and suit jacket in a dainty floral print, each with padded, three-dimensional protrusions in the shape of hearts or stars.

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Nerd Unit RTW Spring 2018

Overt military references permeated Ronald Chew’s latest streetwear offering. A large portion of the collection was turned out in a geometric camouflage print in either green or gray, and some looks were accessorized with a flag, combat helmet or police hat. A workman-style jumpsuit for men and a women’s ensemble consisting of a black velour T-shirt and wide-leg pants provided a small dose of variety, but overall the cargo pants and parkas felt repetitive.

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Original Penguin Taps Band AJR for Spring 2018 Campaign

Men’s wear brand Original Penguin has tapped New York-based indie band AJR for its spring campaign, to be released in February of next year. Brothers Adam, Jack and Ryan Met were in Los Angeles this week to shoot the campaign as well as the music video for their single “Come Hang Out,” off their new album “The Click,” a version of which will also serve as the video campaign for OP’s spring collection.

Adam, Jack and Ryan Met of AJR. 
Jim Metzger

“The shoot is some performance and some facial expressions, sort of like acting,” said Jack Met, explaining the concept of the video. “We are at a crazy party, but we are so busy performing that we don’t really notice the party going on around us,” he said.
Adam Met explained that it’s their first time linking with a fashion brand. “Original Penguin has great style, great simplicity and a throwback vibe that mirrors our style as a band. I also like the juxtapositions in the line, like a Seventies print shirt with Nineties pants. It’s sort of our like our music, a post-modern mix.”
The band of brothers, who have been playing together for 12 years, got their start as street performers in

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Licht Ster RTW Spring 2018

Naoshi Sawayanagi formerly ran his own eponymous label, but now he has teamed with Hikari, niece of Japanese fashion designer Junko Koshino, on this new brand. It showed a mix of ath-leisure and preppy looks, nearly all in stark white, that would all have looked right at home in a country club. But the cropped racer-back tanks, tennis dresses, jogger pants, sports shorts and blazers quickly became repetitive and failed to provide excitement.

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Discovered Men’s Spring 2018

Tatsuya Kimura and Sanae Yoshida went grungy for spring, layering hooded sweatshirts, coats and loose-fitting pants in mixed plaids, denim, tie-dye and patchwork. Interspersed were a few more elegant looks of tailored black pants and jackets with flame motifs embroidered above the hems. And — likely due to the brand winning last season’s DHL Designer Award — there were also DHL branded T-shirts and bandages worn over nose bridges, which felt forced and over the top.

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Murral RTW Spring 2018

Many of the textiles selected by Ayumi Sekiguchi and Yusuke Muramatsu for their spring collection seemed to come from interior design elements, including curtains, upholstery and cushion covers. There was lots of lace, ruffles and scalloped trim on girly dresses and long skirts, while a bathrobe so closely resembled curtains that it even had a rope belt with tasseled ends. The designers also used botanical motifs, with floral accents embroidered onto the sleeves of jackets or the fronts of blouses.

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Tory Sport RTW Spring 2018

Tory Burch’s Sport line is not for the girl who wants to blend in with the legions of fitness fiends clad in black leggings, black sports bras and black tanks with a white swoop here or there. Her line goes big with happy color, for spring, inspired by David Hicks, as was her main line. Burch brought Hick’s florals and bold, graphic color into sport with printed navy and scarlet bomber, an orange and blue sports bra and leggings, and a floral-printed Neoprene zip-up one-piece swimsuit.
It wasn’t just cute. Burch takes the performance aspect of the collection seriously, pushing her staff to infuse technical development into everything, whether it’s Coolmax cashmere sweatpants, a ruffled tennis sweater or golf vest. “I said, ‘Let’s make functionality a given, not a design detail,’” said Burch during a preview. In addition to working with fabrics with wicking, cooling and anti-microbial properties, golf skirts come with under-shorts and pockets big enough for scorecards and a yellow and navy jacket is fully reversible to a waterproof rain slicker. As for the Little Grumps frowny-faced tennis balls that have become a charming brand logo and graced a fresh white oversize sweater, pastel sweatshirts and Ts, well, that

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Memuse RTW Spring 2018

For her debut collection, Risa Aizawa drew inspiration from the neighborhood of Akihabara in Tokyo, which is known as a center of anime, manga and video game culture. She showed both innocent, Lolita-like looks, such as a quilted white dress with flounce sleeves and a bloomers-and-bib combo with a chiffon cape over the top, and darker, edgier pieces like skin-baring black HotPants and crop tops and body-con dresses covered in attached teddy bears. There was even a maid’s outfit, a nod to the fetishized “maid cafes” that are famous in Akihabara.

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Black Eye Patch RTW Spring 2018

This brand, designed anonymously, put on a presentation that was part fashion show and part street performance, all set in an old Noh theater. Bikers popped wheelies in branded satin parkas, and skateboarders did laps in hooded sweatshirts, baggy shorts and oversize coats. Athletic influences were seen in track skirts and sweatpants, but the most common denominator were the logos, which were printed prominently on nearly every piece.

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Yukihero Pro-Wrestling RTW Spring 2018

Cowabunga, dudes! Yukihiro Teshima said he wanted to realize one of his childhood dreams with his spring show, and so he got Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles to join in the fun. Cheerleaders jumped around shaking gold pom-poms and threw each other into the air, creating a fun, festivallike atmosphere. The clothes were less exciting, with lots of simple shapes like work-inspired shirts, pants and coveralls, as well as outdoorsy shorts and rain ponchos. Teshima did his best to spice things up with color and quirky prints, including turtles, tiles, pizza and tie-dye.

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Fortuna Tokyo RTW Spring 2018

Akiko Koba aims to support Japanese craftsmanship by using traditional woven silk fabrics in her collections. For her first presentation during Tokyo Fashion Week, she showed tailored suits and preppy cuffed shorts and polo shirts for men, and short suits, tweed jackets, and swing dresses for women. While the silhouettes have been seen countless times before, the textiles were beautiful.

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Viviano Sue RTW Spring 2018

Both the show notes and the runway, with its garden-like installation at the end, made Sue’s inspiration for spring clear: flowers and nature. He used a literal interpretation, turning out loose chiffon dresses, ruffled blouses and oversized shirts in a variety of botanical prints. He mixed these with black satin bomber jackets and trousers that snapped down the side like track pants. A series of monotone ensembles in dusty rose felt out of place, and the show closed with a grouping of tulle dresses with long trains and lots of gathering. In all black or all white, some of these were reminiscent of wedding dresses, and also distracted from the rest of the collection.

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Elza Winkler RTW Spring 2018

Previously a pattern cutter for Yohji Yamamoto and in charge of tailored jackets and dresses for Alexander McQueen under Sarah Burton, Eiichiro Nakai has undeniable skill at cutting and constructing garments. He showed blazers and full-skirted trenchcoats with voluminous, structured collars, delicate pastel-colored chiffon dresses with high-low hems, and a series of statement gowns covered in crinkled wisps of fabric. It was elegant and sophisticated, even if not particularly new or exciting.

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Boss RTW Spring 2018

Going into his fourth year at the helm of Hugo Boss women’s collections, Jason Wu has chosen to simplify, streamline and lighten things up, not only in terms of the collection’s aesthetic but in his approach to presenting it. He’s stepped away from the runway for the past few seasons, presenting in Boss’ downtown Manhattan showroom after the madness of fashion month ends and skipped pre-collection presentations altogether.
“No one needs to see that much clothes,” Wu said. That doesn’t mean he’s not producing. In addition to the spiffy, nautical-themed spring lineup, there’s a new capsule Gallery collection that’s for Boss stores only. It’s full of colorblocking, bright tailored separates and soft pleated skirts.
As for spring, “It’s a lot less dressy and more casual,” he said, noting that he’s been focused on taking the stuffing out of Boss’ signature rigid suiting for the past few seasons, offering the Boss woman a lot in the way of chic and relaxed. The graphic print on a pretty draped and gently pleated dress was actually mini yellow and blue fish. A bright yellow boxy jacket was done in waterproof bonded nylon, like an update of a classic fisherman’s slicker. A neat navy peacoat came

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Takahiromiyashita the Soloist Men’s Spring 2018

For his first show during Tokyo fashion week, Takahiro Miyashita turned out an impactful collection of hard-edged black-and-white streetwear complemented by tailoring and outdoor influences. Models — many of their faces almost completely obscured by masks — wore layers of graffiti printed sheer T-shirts, studded shirts, and suits with embroidered sleeves and pant legs. Miyashita designs for men, but his clothes have a unisex appeal to them, as evidenced by the females who shared the runway.

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Figue RTW Spring 2018

The crisp awning stripes of Positano merged with the rustic coastal flavor of Trancoso, Brazil in Stephanie von Watzdorf’s spring Figue collection. She kept her signature perennially vacation-ready, bohemian staples fresh with new languid kimonos, the coolest one done in pieces of many vibrant prints and voluminous cotton shirts — some striped, some solid, some a mix of prints — that cutaway almost to a dress length. The kimonos and shirts looked great over printed pajama pants and beachy cotton styles jazzed up with tassels but would work just as well with jeans. For accessories, she introduced a fully beaded moccasin sneaker and slip-on sneakers with decorated with fluffy pom-poms.

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BYO RTW Spring 2018

When he was asked to show his BYO handbags in a runway show a few seasons ago, Jakarta-based accessories designer Tommy Ambiyo jumped at the chance, but he was disappointed to see the accessories taking a backseat to the clothes they were shown with. So he decided to create his own wearable pieces that would showcase, not eclipse, his bags.
The result was eye-catching, if not completely wearable, tops made from the same woven plastic and latex as his handbags. The materials were woven together to create clutches and totes, some simple, and some embellished with plastic paillettes and pieces resembling feathers.
In this case, the tops were a colorful complement to the bags, and Ambiyo kept the rest of the styling minimal, sending out models in the same navy skirts and black pumps, with slicked-back hair and no-makeup makeup.
Ambiyo has found success in is home country, selling more than 6,000 bags in the two years since he relaunched his label. He said the vibrant colors were inspired by the solar eclipse, noting, “During an eclipse you see the craziest colors in the sky.”

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Jeffry Tan RTW Spring 2018

Jakarta-based designer Jeffry Tan is known in Asia for his draped eveningwear inspired by the clean lines of urban architecture. Most of the silhouettes were plays on the bias-cut column dress, several of which he spiced up with diagonal stripes or crisscross straps.
This season, Tan said he was branching out into more streetwear-inspired looks such as slouchy satin trousers, which he paired with sharp-shouldered jackets in silk crepe and satin.
These pieces were more effective than the blousy smocked dresses, which seemed too serious in black yet not formal enough to match the sophistication of the rest of the collection.
While he works in a mostly monochromatic palette, saying, “I’m a bad painter so I’m not good with color,” Tan did have a bright yellow and a fuchsia gown in the lineup. He also used his signature zigzag pattern to add interested to pant legs and side sleeves.
Tan and his fellow Jakarta-based designers were seeking a wider audience in Los Angeles, and many of their evening looks succeeded in generating attention from Hollywood stylists and bloggers.

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Eloshi RTW Spring 2018

Georgian designer Lela Eloshvili straddled antiquity and modernity for spring and the effect was a balance of opposites.
“Eloshi’s collection speaks [to] history,” the designer explained.
Eloshvili has played with proportion in the past with her line and spring was no different. A portion of the runway looks appeared reminiscent of the Eighties with strong shoulders or boxy suiting references against a strong palette of black, white and red.
The inspiration, Eloshvili said, was 20th-century Georgia when women in the country dressed with Western influences.
In contrast, the rest of the collection looked to Georgian history with references to wine-making and traditional clothing. The mood of that portion of the collection was lighter through the use of silk fabrics and natural cotton. Eloshvili created her own prints, mixing imagery of grapes and the Georgian alphabet for a skirt with a fitted bodice that flared out or loose-fitting shirtdress.
She also drew inspiration from the Chokha, a traditional Georgian garment, with elements of the cinched-waist coat used throughout the collection.
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Leal Daccarett RTW Spring 2018

For the second Parisian presentation of their brand Leal Daccarett, Colombian designers Karen Daccarett and Francisco Leal offered a flirtatiously Latin collection that steered clear of clichés while tapping into its home country and its layered, dance-filled heritage.
Established in 2008, the brand helmed by the married duo became a fast favorite of the current First Lady of Colombia, María Clemencia De Santos, who was spotted wearing their designs on state visits, most notably to Spain and the U.K.
La Fantástica, their summer line, ranged from bathing suits to floor-length dresses — whether these were exuberant daywear or low-key evening fare was left up to the wearer. With just enough froth to make it fun, the collection had denims adorned with charming character patches or coral pieces; a blue denim set of a long jacket and wide trousers embellished with raw-edged ruffles; tiered dresses in a navy and white palm print, and long caftans. Cottons, silk and denim came together in a palette of blues and whites.
“It’s a proud moment to be Colombian, and we’re showing who we are and how comfortable we are with that,” Leal said during a showroom appointment.

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Maje RTW Spring 2018

Maje designer Judith Milgrom tried to imagine tomorrow’s woman for the spring collection.
“She’s self assured, modern, with her time, and she’s revisiting lengths and forms,” Milgrom said. She described the contemporary French label’s client as an open-minded Parisian who travels a lot and mixes the clothes she finds in different places. She is not afraid to wear eveningwear in the daytime, and vice versa.
On the dressier side, the shortest outfits sported long sleeves, one was gathered and another one featured lace.
Linen made an appearance for the season, joining the brand’s mainstay, cotton. A bright pink verging on purple brought a flash of color, coming in the form of a striped button up dress, cinched at the waist. Skirts hung low, hovering in that middle range between the knees and the ankles, and most were snug at the waist. The label expanded accessories for the collection, which included a woven straw version of the ever-popular M bag, with tan fringes on the sides, and a larger carry-all in the same material. There were necklaces as well, with colorful charms imprinted with numbers. Lucky ones, perhaps — optimism ran through the collection.

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Louis Vuitton RTW Spring 2018

A deep strain of history ran through Nicolas Ghesquière’s spring collection for Louis Vuitton, and not just because of the show’s location: the bowels of the Louvre Museum, in the medieval moat around which the royal palace was built.
At one end of the runway sat the Great Sphinx of Tanis, a reminder of an even more ancient civilization. The creature, which has the body of a lion and the head of a king, was found in 1825 among the ruins of the Temple of Amun in Egypt.
Vuitton has been highlighting its connections with French history, and royalty, as it celebrates the opening this week of its flagship on Place Vendôme, which sprawls across two majestic 18th-century townhouses.
Ghesquière tapped into that spirit with a powerful lineup that blended his signature sportswear with costume references, in a return to the high-concept approach that defined his collections at Balenciaga, and which he had traded for a more pragmatic vision since joining Vuitton.
Frock coats — in rich metallic brocades, embroidered silk or sculptural leather — were paired with silky boxer shorts or tapered pants in glossy vinyl textures. Almost every look was finished off with clunky sneakers — down to a silver-embroidered Botticelli dress

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Liselore Frowijn Spring RTW 2018

Liselore Frowijn traveled to Mexico in search of material, the historical arts and crafts type, which she brought back to Amsterdam and injected into a lively spring collection.
She took the bright color schemes into psychedelic territory, reinventing the suit with a trenchcoat-inspired jacket and long, cuffed shorts.
Evoking desert hues, a button-up dress came in dusty rose jeans material with a drawstring waist. Shiny silver eco leather made from pineapple plants finished the look, also applied to a deconstructed jean jacket with lots of zippers.
Other touches: red pom-poms stitched to the sides of the lightest light blue shorts and images of the stern, snake-eating eagle perched on a cactus branch, the country’s symbol.
Defiance was another discovery of her Mexican travels, and Frowijn cited strong women, Frida Kahlo-style, as an inspiration. Written on the model’s faces models were “No wall” and “Furiosa.”
“I made a twist in the collection to show them as military strong women that are empowering, of course.…It’s all about freedom, with Mexico as a symbol of this. Because a wall can’t prevent people from wanting to be free,” she explained after the show.

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Vera Wang RTW Spring 2018

Inside Vera Wang beats the heart of the proverbial different drummer. While numerous designers are seeking to offer happy collections to a sad world, upbeat just isn’t Wang’s thing, sartorially speaking. She’s more intrigued by the dystopian world view of “The Handmaid’s Tale.” She binged on the series over the summer. Once again eschewing the runway, she thus commissioned a video, “The Congregation,” by director Bon Duke.
The eerie beauty of the work, filmed at GBX Terminal in Red Hook, Brooklyn, depicts a dark world in which women rely on each other for support and comfort. In truth, that’s not far off from Wang’s overall fashion vision, not the subjugation of women part, but the idea of dressing in a deliberately sober way. Besides, who doesn’t love a good bonnet?
For Wang, the headgear proved more than storytelling flourish; it “enabled me to envision the clothes in a different proportion and context,” she said. Inherent in Wang’s work is a powerful glamour sprung from the interplay of feminine and masculine. Here, she melded corsets to hyper-sculptural jackets over floor-length skirts. Most often, these came in austere suitings; a gentler version reinterpreted a mannish check as a silk print.
Throughout, Wang layered in delicate lingerie pieces, some done up with

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Altuzarra RTW Spring 2018

Even though it’s technically incorrect to lump native Frenchman Joseph Altuzarra in with the American designers who took their runway shows to Paris in what felt like one fell swoop, it’s impossible to separate him from the lot. On Saturday, Altuzarra staged his first show in the city in which he was born in the courtyard of the Lycée Janson de Sailly in the 16th, where the graceful Parisian evening light wasn’t the only thing in the air. There was anticipation and raised expectations, too.
Altuzarra tacitly acknowledged as much during a preview a few days before the show, when he said he felt calmer than he expected. He has maintained that his decision to move was largely motivated by being French and wanted to show in his hometown, and otherwise it would be business as usual. “I didn’t want to suddenly do a super French show inspired by France,” he said. But still, in fashion Paris is Paris. Debutantes, even those with French passports, have to deserve to be here.
The collection Altuzarra showed earned more than passing marks — it looked perfectly at home without appearing too earnest to impress. He played it cool, chic and sensual, delving into his

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Vanessa Seward RTW Spring 2018

How to dress like a French girl, the Vanessa Seward edition, doesn’t include bed head, last night’s eye make up or any sense of throwing things together for — voilà — that this-just-happened look. Seward’s vision is perfectly manicured and proudly, deliberately pretty. The models in her spring collection had Breck Girl blowouts and morning dew skin, as they wore sunny updates on wholesome Seventies/Eighties French casual staples. A neatly tailored light-wash workwear denim jacket was belted over matching boyfriend jeans, the look topped off with a denim headscarf and grounded in chunky denim platform wedges. A cobalt blue flight suit was worn top-down and wrapped around the waist with a blue blouse. A Kelly green Henley tipped in white was tucked into indigo denim shorts and a beautiful tawny leather tunic was trimmed in whipstitching. There were great pieces all around, but the collection’s standout were slouchy blonde pony hair boots.

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Carven RTW Spring 2018

Serge Ruffieux pulled off a charming debut based on a globetrotting collage of references, tossing into the tumbler prints recalling Seventies interiors, aristocratic touches, African fabrics and various other peripatetic nods, from revisited safari vests to tropical prints with a hand-painted quality.
The Left Bank references were suitably tongue-in-cheek with a series of cropped tops — some with A-line volumes — based on reworked quilted Barbour jackets and polo shirts, some paired with pants sprinkled with couture embroidery. A cute recurrent print was based on the rooster, a symbol of France.
Ruffieux was fearless in his mix of colors, including on the fun decorative flats, with sharp red and a shot of acid green — it’s the house color, after all — surprising the overall palette of muted tones like duck blue, dusty coral and pale yellow.
A faraway vibe also came in his use of cord piping as a drawstring to create smocking effects and structured tops with openings on the sleeves, which enhanced the overall crafty feel.
With the show’s location the Jussieu university, and real life students milling about, the collection was compelling and fittingly young at heart for the Carven brand — not forgetting the gaggle of bright young things

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Lemaire RTW Spring 2018

Workwear has been a perpetual source of inspiration for Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran, and this season they added another staple into their arsenal: the humble apron.
As ever, they proposed an elevated spin on the concept, with lacquered satin funnel dresses that came with a little back action, courtesy of panels that were tied to create volume or provide glimpses of skin.
More traditional workwear inspirations came through in outfits like an indigo suit that paired a buttoned-up jacket with voluminous cuffed pants. Pinched waists offset the exaggerated volumes of full-sleeved jackets and coats.
The designers released the volume with billowing blouses and tunics that nodded to Britain’s New Romantic movement — think a dusty blue ruched high-collared slipover with a bustle spilling over one hip, or a voluminous burgundy blouson set off with slim matching pants.
“We wanted to create something that works for everyday but is also very assured,” said Tran, noting the colors were inspired by overdyed Amish textiles. By contrast, oversize pajama suits came in sophisticated cloqué fabrics, some covered in hand-painted motifs.
With their brazen volumes and lack of concession to trends, the clothes required a certain confidence, reflected in the cast of cooler-than-thou models. “They all have their

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Koché RTW Spring 2018

The Koché woman has always been a tomboy, so it came as little surprise this season to find her on the soccer pitch.
Creative director Christelle Kocher has signed a multiseason agreement with the Paris Saint-Germain football club, which has been expanding into the lifestyle segment since it fell under Qatari ownership in 2011. Her coed show included soccer jerseys bedazzled with Swarovski crystals or spliced with Koché T-shirts.
They were paired with color-block suits and racing-stripe pants on the designer’s trademark cast of professional models and friends, who included accessories designer Yaz Bukey. But she also played against type by incorporating the garment into colorful patchwork slips trimmed with lace.
A striped rugby shirt was sliced vertically and fashioned into an hourglass dress, while polo shirts came with peplum frills at the waist. “This season I wanted to make the silhouettes more feminine,” Kocher said. “Nowadays you can be both feminine and strong.”
The presentation also marked an evolution. Instead of her usual standing-only guerrilla-style format, she opted for the serenity of a seated display at the Church of Saint-Merry.
It was a wise choice, enhancing the feeling that Kocher has crossed a threshold. Her name has been bandied about as a potential candidate

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Giada RTW Spring 2018

Gabriele Colangelo was inspired by Susan Weil and José Betancourt landscape and botanical images for Giada’s spring collection — hence the delicate color palette from gray to soft yellow and green, with a touch of ocean blue in a wrap skirt or paprika-red in a soft pantsuit and trench. The designer stayed true to the brand’s staple minimalist shapes, with soft volumes and understated details. Skirts and dresses were feminine, showing plenty of architectural pleats that added movement to skirts or running down a tunic dress. Some of the plissé effects were made with silk georgette and strips of leather in contrasting colors. Deconstructed jackets, oversize shirts and loose pants with slit details and side “wings” contributed to the ease of the looks — although the latter were at times a bit tricky. Giada’s sophisticated luxury was emphasized by the fabrics, including silk and cashmere double, and dégradé designs. Delicate jewel pieces were worn as ankle bracelets or as footwear details.
Celebrating the designer’s relationship with the art world, two never-before-published letters by 19th-century writer Alessandro Manzoni were donated to the Braidense National Library during the presentation inside the Brera Picture Gallery in Milan, which opened up exclusively for the event.

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The Great Enters Footwear With DTC Boot; More Styles to Wholesale in Spring 2018

Followers of designers Emily Current and Meritt Elliott’s clothing label The Great have probably noticed the vintage lace-up boots featured in every look book shoot for their Americana-infused line. In fact, hundreds of followers have e-mailed asking where they can buy it. Finally, the duo decided to produce The Boxcar Boot and make it available direct to consumers of thegreat.com, and it sold out last week after a few days.

The Great Boxcar Boot 
Stefanie Keenan

The Great has made plans to enter the footwear arena via wholesale, with a collection of 10 equally vintage-inspired, no-heels styles for Spring 2018. While its e-commerce business has seen triple-digit growth this year, there’s also plenty of opportunity with wholesale.
Priced at $ 295 to $ 495 retail, the collection includes vegetable tanned vachetta, calf hair and kid suede with leather soles and linings, all made in Brazil. Like many of the clothes, the boots are styled after original men’s pieces, softened up for women.

Mandy Moore and Minka Kelly at The Great Boxcar Boot launch 
Stefanie Keenan

“The shoes all had to fall through the same filter as our clothes, which is a wearability and a worn-in familiarity,” said Current. “You can take things up or down a notch with a

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Marni RTW Spring 2018

Marni’s Francesco Risso assumed quite a mantle, succeeding Consuelo Castiglioni, the revered house founder who developed one of fashion’s most respected and genuinely idiosyncratic aesthetics. A smooth entrée was probably unlikely and Risso’s debut women’s collection last February garnered mixed reviews (at best).
Risso proved himself no shrinking violet this time out, refusing to temper one bit of his creative euphoria. It made for a collection with a lot happening, but in a season sometimes strange and mostly ho-hum, it was welcomed stuff — for its audacity, ideas and realization.
Risso called the collection “Treasure Hunt,” and wrote in his program notes of “a multitude of women, surfing through a multitude of worlds.” Yes and no. For all the goings on, every gal on this hunt lists as her primary residence The Land of Out There, where wacky reigns and minimalists are suspect. A key look: structured, peplumed slip bodice over full skirt, in a mash-up of flowery prints. It made for a bit of an unholy New Look, with a side of funhouse Marie Antoinette at Trianon when worked in Old World brocades. Similar curvature informed the tailoring — a coat in men’s wear bird’s-eye with light blue and acid green

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Loro Piana RTW Spring 2018

What better tool to demonstrate the lightness of a cashmere scarf than a soft breeze? The Loro Piana presentation was staged on an outdoor pavilion, where colorful shawls swayed gently from large rings.
The cashmere specialist was keen to showcase how its luxurious fabrics work for warmer weather. The Gift of Kings, its most exclusive wool with a diameter of just 12 microns, was used for the first time for a women’s capsule collection, which included a summer-weight unlined navy overcoat.
Other options included a red sleeveless silk and cotton ribbed knit dress, “perfect for wearing when sailing and at beach resorts,” the brand said in its collection notes. For those summer nights when the air is chill, Loro Piana offered a featherlight vest made of bands of sheared mink and chinchilla with an organza lining.
The ultralight theme extended to the footwear, which included the 360 LP Walk Lady sneaker, whose name derives from its weight: just 360 grams.

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Brognano RTW Spring 2018

The “Prayer to Saint Therese” track by Johnny Jewel, Chloë Sevigny and Michel Gaubert served as inspiration for Nicola Brognano’s spring 2018 collection. In particular, the gardens of paradise mentioned in the track influenced his spring effort, which was titled “Avant Garde(n).” Actually the designer opened his show with an embroidered apron, echoing gardening styles, which he layered over men’s briefs and a shirt featuring exaggerated ruffled sleeves. “I like to mix couture-ish pieces with street references and men’s styles,” he said. For example he reworked a tailored mannish blazer by printing it with a floral pattern and cutting its back to add a sense of movement. Simple shirtdresses revealed chiffon ruffled inserts on the back and a pair of masculine pants were worn with a cropped top, which was actually a tulle cloud. His interesting combination of contrasting elements continued in a group of patent leather pieces, such as a mini frock, fusing a sexy feel with the sweetness of delicate ruffled details.

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Maryling Spring 2018

Ellsworth Kelly, Jean Degottex and Lucio Fontana’s graphic artworks informed Maryling’s spring collection. For starters, colorful polka dots appeared on midlength gingham dresses as well as on Sixties-inspired ones; while a blue brushstroke enlivened a languid, flowing white number.
The art references continued via optical prints and geometric shapes in primary palette, reaching a pinnacle with a three-quarter-length dress with asymmetric straps. Although everything was perfectly wearable, the lineup fell flat at times, lacking any real runway purpose — except maybe at the very end. The yellow, black and tonal pink silk caftan closed the show on a high note.

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Rejina Pyo RTW Spring 2018

Rejina Pyo staged a full runway show for the first time this season — all the better to showcase the uplifting collection she’d designed with the diversity of women who wear her clothes in mind.
To make that point, Pyo cast a number of nonmodels in the show, some of whom were her friends and collaborators. “I look around and I have all these amazing friends — some having babies, some retiring, all in different stages,” said Pyo after the show. “I had a baby six months ago, and that made me really think about all different shapes of women and their roles. It was almost like a celebration.”
What shone out were Pyo’s skillfully cut silhouettes, which were flattering and easy — but never boring. They also embraced the spectrum of how modern women dress. There were loosely tailored pantsuits, one in a mauve-pink with a strong-shouldered, double-breasted jacket and fluid pants. A cotton day dress fastened across the body like a single-breasted jacket, fashioned with gently voluminous sleeves.
Even the evening looks had an appealing, unfussy glamour. One bias-cut sleeveless dress in gold silk had unfinished hems and rips here and there, while a tiered, floor-length black-and-gold chiffon skirt was worn

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David Koma RTW Spring 2018

Who knew calm and mild David Koma is a fan of bombastic MMA star Conor McGregor? The admiration came out in a spring collection inspired by sports, mostly boxing, which Koma married to his leg-revealing, body-hugging silhouettes.
This unlikely pairing yielded a dynamic collection, more freedom of movement than usual, and some interesting fabric mixes. Yes, there were boxing trunks — with giant ruffles flying off both sides — made of an amalgam of scuba and napa leather fabric, and a striped, athletic tank dress of flocked silk tulle. Elsewhere, an asymmetric sports bra was sewn into a high-waisted pencil skirt with a big ruffle cascading down one leg, essentially creating a one-piece number in sturdy, technical jersey. Koma said the ruffles, which got a lot bigger as the evening looks emerged (though he insisted they were very light to carry), came to him while staring at the wavy sculpture of Kerry Vesper he’s got at home.
There was also a hooded boxing robe made entirely of lace, and skimpy sports jersey dresses done up with sparkling beads. They were a direct inspiration from the ridiculously opulent Money Belt, complete with more than 4,000 diamonds, emeralds and sapphires, which Floyd Mayweather got

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Front Row at Topshop Unique RTW Spring 2018

The front row at Topshop was its usual celeb fear, drawing both Moss sisters, actor Zawe Ashton, singer Ella Eyre and fellow British model Sam Rollinson.
Before the show, model Lottie chatted about taking it easy during the day and going full throttle at night, “This is actually only my second show, so I’ve been taking it pretty easy, but the parties have been so much fun. They all blur into one, but the i-D party was really good.”
Rollinson said the Topshop show is the highlight of her fashion week, enthusing that “I’ve only really been in them so it’s quite nice to be on the other side.” Hoping to find something to wear, the model added, “I want to see loads of sequins and short dresses that I can wear out, that’s my vibe, that’s what I’m going for.”
Ashton hoped to see varied types of femininity on the catwalk, “I feel like this is the new age for modern women and femininity being lots of different things.” Talking about her own fashion film, from her show “Random Acts” on Channel 4, Ashton spoke of the excitement it still holds, “it’s an experimental film show open to fashion film, music, video

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Topshop Unique RTW Spring 2018

The Topshop Unique girl for fall is a glamorous creature. The show notes spoke of a time before Instagram and the threat that every nocturnal indiscretion might be documented on social media; of wild nights spent at underground stalwart, now-closed Soho nightspots like Madame Jojo’s and Soho Revue Bar, the kind of places “that caught the attention of photographer Corinne Day.”
You could almost see the influence of Kate Moss, who was one of Day’s great pals, in the glitzy, thrown-together appeal of the see-now-buy-now collection, like a rummage through vintage market stalls that turned up shearling coats, sequined little tops, tiny leather mini skirts and glamorous other-era coats.
Hints of the Fifties were seen in demure cocoon coats in shades of vanilla or coral, and in the peaked sunglasses in bright pop colors. And sheer blouses in ice cream shades, some dotted with crystals, had a subversive Sixties vibe.
There was some sharp tailoring that echoed Seventies silhouettes, especially nice in a warm butter yellow pantsuit and palest lilac separates, and long leather coats were cool in low-key bittersweet chocolate, or shimmering silver foil for a bigger statement.
Little party dresses in satin had corsetry panels and hook-and-eye details, but

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Fashion East RTW Spring 2018

A knack for taking myriad ideas and fusing them with irreverent flair united this season’s crop of Fashion East designers.
Matty Bovan, now in his third season of showing as part of the Topshop-sponsored platform for emerging talent, made the biggest statement when he closed the show. With Katie Grand acting as creative consultant, a host of major models walked — among them Edie Campbell, Jean Campbell, Georgia May Jagger and Winnie Harlow — wearing a mash-up of colorful crocheted knits and street-inspired pieces splashed with skateboarding and motocross motifs. Bovan combined hand-crafted details with tough, technical elements: a top fashioned from a patchwork of knitted panels was worn with yellow nylon cargo pants patched with pockets. Shorts emblazoned with racing logos were overlaid with a cobweb-like, metallic knit draped top. Among Bovan’s inspirations? A “Mad Max universe” and a “world of post-apocalyptic utopianism,” he stated in his show notes.
London designer A Sai Ta’s Asai collection looked at quintessentially Western design staples through the lens of his Chinese and Vietnamese heritage. Cue pieces such as a sharp blue shirt reworked as a minidress, replete with buttons, belt loops and epaulettes, and worn with thigh-high white boots painted with a blue pattern

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