Hyke RTW Spring 2020

Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara’s brand has, for the past several seasons, been a consistent bright spot during Tokyo Fashion Week, and the latest season was no exception. After a series of collections focused on reinventing classic military pieces from around the world, the spring offering had a softer, more feminine feel to it, but was no less timeless.
Hyke is not a brand that capitalizes on sex appeal. There is very little skin shown with its clothes, even for spring. And yet they have a refined elegance that is undeniable. Ankle-length trenchcoats, maxidresses layered over fringed skirts, and pantsuits topped with pleated half skirts were turned out in neutral khaki, beige, navy and black, with a few pops of blue and pink candy colors thrown in to mix things up. The fabrics were stunning without exception, from smooth cotton and soft linen to functional tech materials.
Having collaborated with sports brands including The North Face in the past, this season saw a grouping of pieces made in conjunction with Adidas. Pleated, asymmetrical dresses, yoga-ready leggings, and abstract printed black-and-white pullovers were often paired with more tailored items, such as fringed long skirts or a basic black shirt.
Ode and Yoshihara also sent

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Louis Vuitton RTW Spring 2020

Closing Paris Fashion Week can be a double-edged sword. In theory, the Louis Vuitton show is the star-studded, spectacular apotheosis to a month of runway shows in four capitals. In practice, weary fashion editors are anxiously eyeing the clock to gauge if they will make their plane or train back home.
It didn’t help that the Vuitton show this season started an hour later than usual, just after the sun set on the plastic tent erected in the courtyard of the Louvre. The brand wanted to maximize the impact of the music video that played on a giant screen that stretched the entire width of the catwalk.
Looming over the audience was transgender singer Sophie Xeon, known simply as Sophie, performing an extended version of her 2017 track “It’s Okay to Cry.” Somewhat surreally, models emerged from a door set in the middle of the performer’s chest.
Nicolas Ghesquière has been flirting with gender fluidity for several seasons, having cast androgynous models including Krow Kian in his spring show a year ago, and subsequently tapped transgender actress Indya Moore to star in his pre-fall look book and act as Instagram “host” for Vuitton’s fall show.
And it was an undercurrent this season at the

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Aalto RTW Spring 2020

This wasn’t your typical, sparkling beach inspiration. Tuomas Merikoski was thinking more of danger, lust and excitement, he said — his summer feeling has something more of a road-trip vibe. To start with, there was a heavy dose of white — lightweight white cotton shirts, some with sailor blouse collars, and a trenchcoat with wide lapels. Merikoski had also rigged up sails in the showroom — he’s making handbags out of sails, and a stiff, crinkly prototype sat near the window, with round handles. Next to the bags were clogs — a collaboration with a traditional Finnish make called Talla, some with fat bows. But topping accessories was the stingray hat. Imagine a bucket hat with an extended brim, that split and grew stingray tails. It added flair but he meant it to be worn casually — like a real sailor bob that will look good even after it’s bleached by the sun. 
Then there was color — simple cotton T-shirts carried an extra sash of lightweight material with the house’s “bleeding dots” print, drape it in front, drape it in back, or toss it in the washing machine — the silky fabric was actually a recycled polyester. 
And now for the statement

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Maticevski RTW Spring 2020

For Australian designer Toni Maticevski, designing around a theme is no longer working out. “It’s really weird. I’ve stopped trying to figure it out,” he said ruefully during a showroom appointment. What he thought about instead: how good a spring morning feels — clear skies, bright light and the scent of dew-saturated earth.
He embodied the latter as touches of sheen or darker tones; the bright light in flattering pinky-beiges, and the breeze in fabrics meant to obscure without hiding the skin. Given his proclivity for architectural draping, the result could have easily felt too formal. Here, his sculptural approach was reined in by softer fabrics and felt more relatable, especially with new daywear options.
Among the standouts: A light gray striped dress looked blowsy, while soft tuffs dotting white gauze fabric evoked sun-dappled surfaces. A jersey T-shirt gave an editor-off-duty look to a pencil skirt. The soft hand of a silk blend made a top and matching trousers skew more relaxed but still smart.
The lighter materials of the collection made tailored pieces stand out. A double-breasted blazer felt at once familiar and fresh, while a check overcoat toed the line between sporty and statement thanks to its kimono-inspired proportions. “My idea of

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Martin Grant RTW Spring 2020

“It’s a little bit ‘workwear meets Bubblegum Barbie,’” said Martin Grant, by way of introducing his spring collection. That’s some statement, coming from a designer famous for dressing style icons like Cate Blanchett and Meghan Markle.
Grant was referring specifically to a blue belted shirtdress with safari pockets that he’d paired with pink heels, but there were plenty of other playful options in his spring collection: a sexy pink halterneck minidress; cross-back bra tops, and a navy linen zip-front, hourglass bustier dress.
They tipped his trademark masculine-feminine dynamic into flirtier territory. Even the suits had a softer edge this season, courtesy of a slightly Eighties-feeling curved, cropped pant shape. Grant emphasized the waist by belting everything from oversize shirts to a flowing one-shouldered pink taffeta evening gown.
He also used the taffeta for a puff-sleeved shirt, noting that the fabric was made by a French company that historically supplied haute couture houses. “It’s one of the first pinks that I used when I moved to Paris, and it’s called ‘Paris.’ I like also that I can go back to a house that I used 15 years ago and have that exact color,” he mused.
Bubblegum Barbie just got a couture makeover.

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Mary Katrantzou Spring 2020

Mary Katrtantzou set the bar high for her spring 2020 show — a little too high, some would say.
Just like she managed to make the impossible possible when it came to securing her dream show venue – the historic Temple of Poseidon in Athens – the Greek-born designer delivered a standout couture collection that was bursting with emotion, ideas and elevated construction techniques.
It was admirable that she was able to execute everything at such scale, on a tight budget and with a small team at her north London atelier. Her talent, conviction – and many a sleepless night – certainly paid off.
The collection consisted of 30 looks, each exploring a different couture technique and conceptualizing a philosophical idea birthed in Greece at the same time as the temple of Poseidon was built, in 440 B.C.
The first model – in a sequinned and fringed column gown with a quote from Socrates embroidered on it – made her way down the runway against the ancient ruins, sending a frisson through the crowd. The dim lighting and eerie music added to the electricity in the space.
What followed was an explosion of creativity, with Katrantzou paying homage to her country’s history – and writing a new

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Capucci RTW Spring 2020

For their second season at storied Rome house Capucci, Luisa Orsini and Antonine Peduzzi played with optical effects, using iridescent fabrics that change color in the light and working them into designs that can be worn in different ways to create volume.
Mikado silks were taken from Capucci’s archives, recycled into modernized cocktail separates in color-blocked brights. A cropped waistcoat in lilac silk was adorned with glow-in-the-dark beads, intended to evoke a rosary, and worn with high-waisted white pants.
A handmade black devoré gown and plissé silk dresses — orange or red, burgundy or green, depending on the light — in one-shouldered or bell-sleeved iterations nodded to the house’s couture heritage, a link the designers are keen to cultivate as they seek to modernize the label without neglecting its rich history.
Wide-brimmed “visiere” hats, adorned with beaded fringing or giant bows, added to the updated vintage feel of the collection.

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Honayda RTW Spring 2020

For her first presentation at Paris Fashion Week, Honayda Serafi drew inspiration from her childhood memories of seeing Bedouin women in the countryside in her native Saudi Arabia.
Their traditional outfits inspired the seashell-embroidered belt she layered over a silky white cape-sleeved top, and the geometric patterns on a hooded dress worn over matching pants. The layered silhouettes are a pragmatic choice for Bedouin women out in the elements, but Serafi gave them a seductive allure.
A black bustier jumpsuit was overlaid with a sheer tunic with graphic silver sequin embroideries, while dramatic floor-length capes added pizzazz to buttoned-up long-sleeve shirts and pants. The designer titled the collection “Evolution,” saying it was a vision of how women could evolve from one generation to the next.
Serafi has done her bit to challenge social attitudes in Saudi Arabia by introducing colored and embroidered abayas in previous collections. This time, she showed variations on the traditional caftan, such as a white column dress with a pleated half cape. “This for me is the new generation of caftans: dress caftans,” she explained.
The collection was heavy on the kind of red-carpet fare that has won over celebrities including Priyanka Chopra, Lupita Nyong’o and Lindsey Vonn. Standouts included

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Kirin Peggy Gou RTW Spring 2020

Peggy Gou doesn’t need to look far for inspiration: her Kirin line is basically condensed from the kind of things she likes to wear. For her sophomore collection, the South Korean-born techno DJ and producer whipped up outfits for everything from hitting the festival circuit to traveling between gigs.
Her signature look is matching tops and pants, ranging from color-blocked tracksuits and denim pairings, to satiny logo-printed pajamas. Among the patterns this season is a pixelated image of dancers — a nod to the Saatchi Gallery’s recent “Sweet Harmony: Rave Today” exhibition — and a motif of Korean traditional masks.
Gou said the idea came from the artwork for her track “Starry Night,” an illustration that shows her hiding behind a laughing mask. “Everything with social media now is about who has a better life, who’s happier, and my cover had the meaning that everything is not as it appears,” she said. “I’m not always a super happy person.”
The Berlin-based DJ has been working with her partners at New Guards Group, the Milan-based brand platform that was recently sold to Farfetch, to refine her assortment. Based on the feedback from her first season, she’s added more feminine shirts and snugger denim fits.
“I

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Beautiful People RTW Spring 2020

The show started in darkness, with two figures dressing and undressing a model to demonstrate how the same garment could be worn different ways. Twenty-four ways, to be exact — although given how arduous it looked to flip a garment in merely four versions, it maybe wasn’t the best idea to showcase the collection’s versatility.
That didn’t stop the show that followed from being visually pleasing and entertaining. A plaid spaghetti-strap dress looked simple enough until the model turned a corner and revealed that the back of the silhouette was covered in a black knitted dress, its short sleeves flapping over the model’s shoulders. Same thing for a simple black silk slipdress that had a floaty chiffon number on its back. It looked almost like the wearer was trailing a ghostly figure in her wake.
“We decided to show extreme versions on the runway, but the main idea is that clothes need to adapt to our mood and occasion,” said designer Hidenori Kumakiri backstage. These 24 ways adapted to 24-hour days, as made visible by the rising sun and dawn prints on the front of some of the jersey dresses and pleated skirts. Knits were super fine, giving an impression of transparency,

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Shiatzy Chen RTW Spring 2020

“Bamboo are very lively and they have stronger roots,” Wang Chen Tsai-Hsia said after the spring Shiatzy Chen show. “They’re always young, like I want my brand to be.” Youthful is a direction she’s been going for recently — this time was no different.
She kept her spring collection breezy and easy, with a kick. The palette felt graphic, with whites, tan, green, red and a surprising predominance of black. Most of her looks left the legs bare, with shorts but also with transparencies or high-cut slits. Adding to the youthfulness of the lineup were souvenir-style blousons, luxe Teva-like flat sandals and a branded T-shirt designed to look like a rock band T-shirt.
As is her wont, she blended elements of Chinese culture into her work, with a light hand. That meshed particularly well when playing with the underwear-as-outerwear trope: There were lacy brassieres but also halterneck tops cut in the shape of a dudou, a piece of traditional underwear. Elsewhere, it was more subtle than not, as a tone-on-tone embroidery climbing up a shirt, in the shape of trousers nipped at the waist or the occasional qipao neckline.
Chinese poet Su Dongpo, quoted in the notes, wrote that “without bamboo, people are

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Valentino RTW Spring 2020

“Do you know this technique, called grisaille?” Pierpaolo Piccioli queried about a 16th-century painting process. “It consists of taking off in order to give life and shape and to go to the essence.” Piccioli spoke during a preview of the Valentino collection he showed on Sunday, one both lyrical and grounded. The creative director is devoted to the brand’s position as a couture house. He believes deeply that couture is about more than exquisitely wrought dresses that take forever to make and cost a fortune; that it is about a set of values of respect, aspiration and inclusivity, not in terms of purchasing power but in telegraphing messages of beauty and open-mindedness. As part of that, Piccioli maintains that the physical components of couture — silhouettes, embroideries, etc. — can be adapted for a wider audience. Hence, his grisaille concept for spring.
Yet paring down is about more than translating a dramatic haute sleeve at a ready-to-wear price point; sometimes, taking away allows the woman to emerge more powerfully from the clothes. “[It] brings the attention from the dress per se to the personality that gives life to it, from object to the individual,” Piccioli wrote in his program notes. That sentiment

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Alessandra Rich RTW Spring 2020

Thirty-five minutes. That’s how long it took for guests to settle in their seats at the packed Alessandra Rich show venue, and also the time one influencer spent trying to get the perfect selfie wearing Rich’s oversize rhinestone earrings. Eyebrows were raised, but people’s curiosity was piqued by the fact that the attention-seeker also had two photographers snapping her every move. The minute the show started, she whipped them off; the heavy clip-on earrings had left red ridges in her earlobes.
The event might seem trivial, but it sums up the Alessandra Rich brand in a nutshell. “Clothes for Instagram” has often been the best way to describe the designer’s collections, which often consist of various spins on her bestselling tea dress with exaggerated shoulders. The spring collection didn’t veer far from its usual mark: Titled “Ladylike You,” it featured an array of said dress in Eighties prints, including a purple leopard-print version and a hot pink graffiti motif.
Demure houndstooth skirt suits and bouclé jackets were covered in sequins, while ruffled skirts, slit up to thigh level, swished at every model’s turn. There were also glittering chokers and simple black thongs. The former were worn with anything from lacy corsets to

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Christian Wijnants RTW Spring 2020

Christian Wijnants sent his audience off to some unidentifiable place — urban, chic, sophisticated, with African-flavored prints, sequins and subtle ruffles — to the tap, tap, tapping of percussion music. Black beaded earrings added extra loops and hoops. So, too, did stiff ropes of hair on the models heads — more shapes.
“I liked the idea of escapism, traveling,” said Wijnants backstage before the show.
He was absorbed by works from Los Angeles-based painter Henry Taylor last season, and the influence lingered — as seen in the colors. And also thought about African and American continents colliding together.
Animal-like prints had a backdrop of a grid of small circles — bubble wrap had served as the starting point of a new printing technique — apply paint, press on the paper.
But our prints and knits man was really out to explore shapes and volumes.
“I wanted a little more bigger-sized ruffles,” he explained, pointing to a skirt fashioned in the form of a large ruffle. It also carried strips of smaller, more traditional ruffles, which he applied in unconventional ways, in rings around loose trousers or on the seam of an oversize, collared shirt.
This focus on shapes all brought considerable depth to the lineup. It

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Paco Rabanne RTW Spring 2020

In his six years at Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena has explored a number of themes from Thirties screen sirens to Eighties dandies to Fifties pin-up cowgirls, always with a chainmail link. For spring, he took a trip to the well-worn Seventies with a show of “don’t worry, be happy” hearts, rainbows and daisies.
“I wanted to work on the pop side of Paco Rabanne,” he said backstage of the collection, whose elements were not particularly surprising, even if his decision to add men’s wear to the still-nascent women’s business this season was.
Metallic leather patchwork sunset landscape jackets and high boots; embroidered jeans; loud-patterned suits with jumbo point collars; polka-dot floral foulard dresses cinched with metal butterfly belts, and suede bags swinging fringe were all a bit been there, worn that.
One bright spot was a floral guipure top with cascading sleeves and shorts that treated lace like the house mesh, for a contemporary elan.
No doubt, Dossena was trying to broaden commercial appeal by offering more forgiving silhouettes in metallic jersey, and cutesy pieces like a rainbow-stripe sweater, white-and-yellow daisy patterned chainmail skirt, and chainmail dress emblazoned with red hearts. But as a result, the collection lost some of the romance and hard-earned

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Lemaire RTW Spring 2020

“A summer rain,” Christophe Lemaire said after a show that stayed thankfully dry in the open courtyard of the École Duperré, despite worrisome black clouds and a distribution of umbrellas.
“We liked this idea of having fabrics with a wet effect,” added partner Sarah-Linh Tran. “We wanted to work around quite defined silhouettes and wet blacks.” This translated into an opening group of dark silhouettes, the kind of elongated looks Lemaire is known for, cut from chintz, coated cottons in various weights and occasional details in glossy wooden pearls — similar to those on orthopedic seat covers used by Parisian taxi drivers.
The duo did away with any embellishment, hewing close to the body by taking cues from the sparse elegance of judo outfits. Those informed the curved legs and padded detailing, notably self-tie belts that cinched jackets and coats, continuing down around the ankle on sandals with puffy straps.
The monochromatic silhouettes looked dipped in single color baths, moving onto a palette of almost neutrals of off-white, blush pinks, caramels and chocolate with the odd sage green — all tones that flatter the skin. “We like clothes to be a kind of new nudity,” Tran said. “This is a kind of makeup

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How to Watch Balmain’s Spring 2020 Fashion Show

Balmain is slated to present its spring 2020 ready-to-wear collection this week during Paris Fashion Week with help from a famous face: Kylie Jenner. Makeup from her just-revealed collaboration with Balmain will be featured on the runway and Jenner herself will serve as the artistic director of makeup for the production.
Olivier Rousteing, Balmain’s creative director, expressed his excitement for the event on Instagram, where he shared a throwback clip from the label’s spring 2019 show.
“I just woke up and realized it’s been a year ago! Time goes by so fast…can’t wait to show you on Friday the next Balmain Paris summer,” he captioned the Monday post.
The show is scheduled to run on Friday at 11:30 a.m. CET/5:30 a.m. ET — and you’ll be able to stream it without leaving your home by just checking out the video player below.

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Dior RTW Spring 2020

The clean geometry of the giant rectangular facade rose in man-made opposition to the surrounding greenery and grim afternoon clouds. Yet its unfussy, natural wood foretold of an interplay with nature. The structure (facade only; it fronted a traditional white show tent) welcomed guests into a bucolic setting at the Longchamp racetrack; Maria Grazia Chiuri saw it as a new iteration of the house of Dior’s long-running appreciation for gardens. Yet rather than a pretty, manicured vista of vibrant flowers that would be here today and (literally) gone tomorrow, this was a fledgling forest, moody and magical enough for evocative viewing, and sustainable, too. It was the work of the landscape and urbanism collective COLOCO. The 160 trees, their bulbous root bundles wrapped in burlap, will be broken down beginning on Thursday and distributed for replanting in four locations.
An acknowledgement by Chiuri of the need to think in terms of sustainable practices in every aspect — yes. “We have to use creativity, but we are more conscious about what we do…,” she said during a preview. “It’s important that the message is correct.”
Yet Chiuri acknowledged that sustainability is a complicated issue, and in fashion, an often contradictory one. “On one

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Telfar RTW Spring 2020

There’s a new American in Paris.
New York designer Telfar Clemens kicked off Paris Fashion Week with a multimedia happening that was, appropriately enough, a musing on migration. Not one to do a straight runway show, he presented his coed collection at La Cigale concert hall with a film, a live sonic score by Afro-Parisian DJ Crystallmess, a musical performance by Lancey Foux, and the surprise reveal of a Converse collab (including uber-cool sneaker sandals for men and women) that should help catapult the brand to an even wider audience.
Projected behind models wearing the same outfits that were shown on-screen, the film “The World Isn’t Everything” was the work of Clemens’ buzzy group of creative collaborators, including “Slave Play” playwright Jeremy O. Harris, artists Petra Collins and Juliana Huxtable. Speaking to the idea of migration, borders and belonging, the work featured black men floating on rafts just out of reach of the New York skyline, and “Moonlight” actor Ashton Sanders being interrogated at an airport security checkpoint, among other scenes, all with characters wearing Telfar logo jewelry, T-shirts and bags.
On the runway, the collection set out to rewrite the narrative of American sportswear. Techniques of deconstruction, reconstruction and patchwork were used

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Herno RTW Spring 2020

No sterile Helvetica font for Herno, which launched a new collection marked by an H, embellished with a curl that runs under the logo. This is a graphic reminder of the Erno river that flows by Lesa, where Giuseppe Marenzi founded the Italian company.
Herno Monogram employs a fabric inspired by the Fifties, revived for the current logo trend. Outerwear, the brand’s bread-and-butter, was shown in a cotton jacquard version with beige background and contrasting dark brown H’s, or in nylon with a tone-on-tone H.
Classic and oversize trench coats, bombers, parkas and pea coats were entirely monogrammed or with simple, discreet details on the back of the collar, on belts or on tabs.
 

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MSGM RTW Spring 2020

For a young fashion label, surviving – let alone thriving – for 10 years is no small feat, especially in Italy, land of so many old luxury giants. So MSGM’s Massimo Giorgetti celebrated by being the first to hold a fashion show in the garden of the contemporary Triennale Museum in Milan, to be followed by an evening celebration of a new Milan flagship in the Brera district.

Show-goers couldn’t help but sit up straight and pay attention to the runway painted neon yellow for the contemporary designer, who has blazed a trail by harnessing the Millennial energy of Milan and selling it to the world through his own collections celebrating the city’s hotspots and skylines on scarves and sweatshirts, and through collaborations with everyone from Toilet Paper magazine to Eastpak and Fila.

Backstage he said he was feeling good: “After 10 years I really love my job and maybe I love fashion even more than in the beginning.” He used the anniversary as an opportunity to re-assert his brand codes, including tulle, bows, ruffles, print, flowers, fringe and lace, even reaching back to the first collection to reuse an archival lace on a softly tailored pantsuit in a punchy shade of pink.

While

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Versace RTW Spring 2020

Talk about a J.Lo jaw-drop.
The diva herself closed out the Versace show Friday night, reprising what may have been the first viral fashion moment in history with an IRL runway walk for the ages.
It was the second time in the spotlight for the jungle print gown, which became an instant icon when Jennifer Lopez wore it to the Grammy Awards in 2000. Not only was the plunge-front dress depth-defying (How did it stay on then — or now —on the age-defying actress?), it changed history, when news traveled from Hollywood red carpet to Internet superhighway.
“I’m kind of proud to have inspired Google,” said Donatella Versace with her trademark humility during a pre-show preview.
Google was still in its infancy, just two years old, when fans burned up cords and cables searching for “Jennifer Lopez’s green dress.” When their queries weren’t turning up what they really wanted — a picture! — the tech giant realized it needed a new visual search engine, and developed Google Image. “For the first time, fashion inspired technology,” said the designer, noting it was also a validating moment for her personally, when she realized the dress had stopped the world. (She took the design helm at Versace

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Jennifer Lopez Closes Versace Spring 2020 Show in Iconic Green Dress

Jennifer Lopez just won Milan Fashion Week.
Almost 20 years after she made headlines in the dress that changed the Internet as we know it, J.Lo closed the runway at Versace’s spring 2020 show in a reimagined version of her iconic plunging Versace dress she wore to the Grammy Awards in 2000. The jungle-inspired dress — arguably one of the most famous red carpet looks of all time — is said to have been the impetus for the creation of Google Image Search.
Scroll Down to Watch Jennifer Lopez Walk the Versace Runway
“I found out that because of that night and because of that dress, Google Images was actually created,” Lopez said on her YouTube channel in April. “That so many people went searching for this and they had nowhere to search a picture at that time on the Internet, they created Google Images.”

Jennifer Lopez at the Grammy Awards in 2000. 
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In 2015, former Google chief executive officer, Eric Schmidt, wrote in a blogpost on Project Syndicate about Lopez’s dress. “At the time, it was the most popular search query we had ever seen, but we had no surefire way of getting users exactly what they wanted. J­.Lo wearing that dress, Google Image

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Bottega Veneta RTW Spring 2020

Few designer arrivals are instantly momentous. Bottega Veneta’s Daniel Lee is finding that out.
Lee’s appointment at Bottega came with high expectations buoyed by his Phoebe-centric résumé; he was a longtime assistant to Phoebe Philo, now on industry hiatus (because no one wants to think she’s exited fashion for good). Insider-celebrated, he was also green in the ways of fronting a major brand, and in connecting to women on the emotional level that made Philo more cult goddess that mere fashion star.
Would Lee command a slice of the Phoebe-loving population longing for courtship? After his second runway on Thursday, the answer remains a giant question mark. One point is very clear: Lee has a long way to go, both in clarifying his vision and refining his skills. After the show, Lee said this collection was about “solidifying icons…the things we’ve become known for.”
But what are the Bottega icons? There’s a very specific, very famous handbag treatment that Lee has translated to clothes and shoes. And he listed, “the pouch bag, the kind of ease, reality of dressing.” But are those identifiable codes? In fact, does Bottega really have a ready-to-wear iconography? If yes, what is it, and how does he advance

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Jil Sander RTW Spring 2020

Balance is a goal that most everyone aspires to reach in life. Probably one of the most difficult to attain, considering the chaotic lifestyle of today. But a fashion show, if considered as a representation of tiny fragments of life, gives us that peaceful feel that, for a handful of minutes, everything is in its own place and the balance is found. This happened on Wednesday night at Milan’s Brera Academy where Jil Sander unveiled a beautiful collection, which seemed to center on the concept of balance.
Creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier succeeded in finding harmony among contrasting forces, giving shape to a lineup, which felt personal, distinctive, inventive.
The minimal rigor of sartorial suits, injected with an almost severe, mannish attitude, was counterbalanced by the liquid fluidity of draped dresses with high-neck collars and long sleeves. The conceptual vibe of most intricate constructions and deconstructions, as well as the paper-like feel of textured, more rigid fabrics, were juxtaposed to the desirable, essential approachability of a pleated tunic top with a crisscross detail on the back layered over a matching skirt in a different white tone and the liquid fluidity of a black and blue silk V-neck frock.
Patchwork in a chic

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Julien Macdonald RTW Spring 2020

For spring 2020, Julien Macdonald did what he does best and that is to create clothes that show a lot of leg and skin. All about the sex appeal, the collection started off with a crocheted, barely there dress complete with a leather waistband.
Sparkly black and silver cocktail dresses shimmered and slinked their way down the runway. He added some spring colors such as mint green, ice blue and lilac and played with fringed details. Fringing brushed up against the legs of some models, while others accented sleeves and the tops of dresses.
Also for the spring season, he delivered some swimwear pieces that were cut high up the leg and left little to the imagination. While the silhouettes seemed flattering, selling sex eventually gets tiring.

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Preen by Thornton Bregazzi RTW Spring 2020

The Preen girl loves a good floaty dress, yet she’s also looking for something to lounge in or to make a statement. Designers Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton granted these wishes by expanding their repertoire for spring.
Ruffled and ruched feminine dresses that have become a mainstay for the brand took on new life in structured black and white satin. The designers continued to experiment with structure and they introduced trench coats with oversize boxy sleeves, tailored blazers and neon yellow nylon suit that popped.
“We wanted to celebrate women and empower them, like the big sleeves, even if it was on a fluffy dress, felt empowering and like she owned it,” said Bregazzi.
The designers introduced loungewear by way of loose, wide-leg trousers, track pants with quilted details and a boxy hoodie with a graphic manga print.
“We’re great fans of manga and anime and we worked with an artist to create this anime character who is representative of a Preen girl, for us it’s a way to remember our experiences through Japan,” Thornton said of the illustration that peppered its way through the collection, as a layer peeking through a lace overlay, on a T-shirt, a floral dress and printed on a

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Emilia Wickstead RTW Spring 2020

Emilia Wickstead drew inspiration from the four characters of the “Little Women” films for her not-so-little women, who instead exuded power, grace and femininity.
The designer immersed herself in the four sisters’ everyday lives and modernized quintessential costume elements such as gloves and bibs, which were transformed into oversize collars or sequin layers over light organza shirts and dresses.
“I was inspired by all the different eras coming together, such as romantic elements of the Seventies, tapered Nineties silhouettes and using organza to play on that freedom of Jo’s personality,” she said.
Just like the differing personalities of the “Little Women,” the pieces in her collection embodied different characters of their own. Soft, sweet pastel hues colored her tailored men’s wear inspired pieces, such as a pale yellow suit-style jumpsuit. Ankle-length dresses were softly pleated, while structured floor-sweeping gowns held tight to their A-line shapes.
Wickstead played deftly with detail and mimicked the corset shape by adding darts to the bust and cinching the waistline. True to form, there was a neckline for every occasion, such as a high turtleneck on a floral printed green number.
While shapes began to build in size, with her final looks serving some serious volume, a standout piece was

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Amanda Wakeley RTW Spring 2020

The designer was prepping for her Verbier ski trip, but her mind was already in Havana, Cuba, from where she grabbed inspiration for her spring 2020 collection. Wakeley looked to the city’s architecture and landscape, using oranges as bright pops of color and palm leaf prints on what she described as “easy, breezy” dresses in satin.
She contrasted these voluminous maxi dresses with tailored pieces, such as a woven vest that mimicked the texture of a straw hat. Wakeley carried the weaving motif through the collection, such as a blue ribbon crisscrossing down the arms of a white dress, and looping through the lapels of an orange and blue woven blazer. Elsewhere, evening gowns and ankle-length skirts were embellished with high-shine sequins.

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Hazzys by JD.com RTW Spring 2020

China’s second-largest e-commerce player JD.com picked the right brand with the right help this season. It has a three-year partnership with the British Fashion Council and is committed to bringing Chinese brands to showcase their collections in London.
Hazzys is a Korean brand owned by LF Fashion, the fashion arm of conglomerate LG Group. It has a licensing deal with Chinese apparel giant Saint Angelo, and operates more than 400 stores across the country. Hence, guests at the show were mostly Chinese.
Curated by Fashion Fringe winner Haizhen Wang, the collection was quintessentially British. After all, it’s named after a Cambridge rowing club. A classic beige trench coat opened the show, while a couple of deconstructed versions closed it. In between were thoughtful wardrobe stables with subtle twists that painted a vivid picture of various walks of London life. You could clearly divine the archetypes – bankers, skaters, artists, students and fashionistas – thanks to diverse and clever casting.
The brand also debuted a complex new print featuring the HAZ logo, designed by Wang. It added a layer of identity to the brand that sets it apart from the likes of Aquascutum, Burberry or Daks.

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The Best Social Media Moments From NYFW Spring 2020

New York Fashion Week has finally come to a close, but the biggest moments of the week still live on through social media.
With an impressive roster of celebrity attendees during the NYFW spring 2020 season, the week saw a number of memorable moments captured on Instagram, including Kim Kardashian, who attended Serena Williams’ Serena fashion show, and Zendaya, who expressed her gratitude to Tommy Hilfiger and stylist Law Roach who she collaborated with for her second collection with the designer at the Apollo Theater.
Read More: 7 Street Style Fall 2019 Fashion Trends from NYFW 

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So much gratitude to everyone who helped make me and @luxurylaw visions a reality. Thank you @thomasjhilfiger for your guidance and trust, you promised me creative freedom and support and delivered in the most beautiful way. Thank you to the @mamafoundation for bringing your magic and talent to our show and for all the work you do in the community of Harlem, we are proud to support you. We hope everyone who came or watched the show left with an overwhelming sense of joy through this celebration of history, thank you for your love.
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Matthew Adams Dolan RTW Spring 2020

After taking a season off from the New York Fashion Week calendar, Matthew Adams Dolan came back with a more subdued take on his signature voluminous inclinations. He looked to the idea of crafting a new American wardrobe, where he could easily toggle between conservative society and something more young and free.
“I think it’s always this idea of how to change these codes that are such a big part of American culture and looking at these signifiers and making them in a way that feels more contemporary and subversive,” he said backstage after the show. For instance, he took the idea of a classic rowing blazer, but cut it more as a boxy dress with nipped-in waist for women or with enveloping shoulders for men. It played into a preppy theme that included a polo reimagined as an oversized dress or a sleeveless top, or denim reworked to include big utility pockets on a skirt or with interesting pleating patterns on shorts.
He maintained elements of offbeat charm that made his early collections so appealing: playful reworked shirting, relaxed elongated silhouettes and youthful takes on tailoring. He didn’t abandon volume altogether; rather, he offered it in lighter variations with sheerer fabrics

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Yeohlee RTW Spring 2020

Yeohlee Teng is one of those almost extinct creatures in the fashion industry: a designer who is still passionate about construction, lines and fabrics. She still believes that her creations are the ultimate medium to express her fashion message. In her case, it’s a clear, powerful dispatch, ultimately telegraphed with essentially, purity and control.
Working a black and white color palette, Teng played with cuts and geometric shapes to create versatile, effortlessly chic pieces, mostly crafted from Italian and Japanese cottons.
Details made the difference in her designs, which were very simple at first sight, yet highly complex when analyzed closely. They included daywear staples with a twist, such as color-blocked frocks that can be worn in multiple ways; and a sporty-chic hooded jacket with drawstrings worn with a pinstriped dress and matching pants that had a slightly sculptural silhouette that was achieved through bias cuts.
The collection also offered elegant and discreet cocktail options, including a V-neck mini dress with the eye-catching shoulders highlighted by black and white graphic colorblocking, as well as a jumpsuit, which looked just pretty in its sophisticated elegance.

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Gabriela Hearst RTW Spring 2020

The Rocky Mountain Locust, Xerces Blue and other of planet earth’s recently extinct insects were memorialized in a print on a silk twill scarf placed on every seat at the Gabriela Hearst show.
It was a sad reminder of the sustainability stakes. But Hearst is one in the industry who can hold her head high; all of her brand packaging is biodegradable, she is an enthusiastic user of eco- and recycled fabrics, and this season she joined the ranks of Stella McCartney in having a carbon neutral show (which she achieved through donating offset amounts to two projects in Africa that work to replace traditional, toxin-emitting cookstoves with more energy-efficient models).
Which all means there is reason to feel good about wearing this collection, inspired by female profiles in courage, from the goddess Athena, to the 17th-century German botanist Maria Sibylla Merian, Josephine Baker and the Kurdish freedom fighters.
Not that you needed any added reason, because Hearst’s clothes were beautiful. Using more handcraft than she ever has, she explored a more earthy aesthetic than in past outings, and the result felt more warm and accessible, too.
Details like macramé leather netting and fringe and contrast blanket stitching added extra oomph to the designer’s

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Jonathan Simkhai RTW Spring 2020

You might call it a lingerie-lifestyle look that Jonathan Simkhai has been cultivating over the nine years he’s been in business. The designer is known for using delicate lace and peekaboo panels on body-con dresses, playful jeans and asymmetric blouses.
But for Spring 2020, he worked a more minimalist romanticism in a Georgia O’Keeffe-inspired, sun-bleached palette of ecru, lilac, blue sky and Sedona clay, showing lovely silk charmeuse and satin pieces made special by details like twisted shoulder straps, pin-tucking and lace inserts.
“I really wanted to exude a sense of ease and unexpected femininity,” said the designer, whose big news is the launch of his first handbags, in partnership with Apply Pay. His first accessories category included four silhouettes designed to reflect the values of the brand — slouchy and structured, hard and soft, tough and feminine — including a napa leather grocery bag, a belt bag, a crossbody and a clutch, each named after the word for “woman” in four languages: femme, donna, mara and isha.
Coming down the runway with the new handbags were boudoir beach pieces like a pale-green corded lace dress worn like a caftan over a bralette and ecru crepe pants; a white hand-crocheted, open-back collared polo

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Self-Portrait RTW Spring 2020

Han Chong infused a lively sense of relaxed ease into his spring collection, which he presented at New York’s legendary Woolworth Building. The opulent grandeur of the location, filled with Greek veined marble, glass mosaics and gold tiles, created a charming contrast with the summery, breezy feel of the lineup, which looked quintessentially feminine and romantic.
The opening cotton poplin outfits punctuated by lace trim, which included a mini dress with a defined waist and a shirt paired with a matching wrap skirt, set the tone of the collection, whose delicacy met an urban-chic mood.
Pale tones of blue, lilac and pale yellow were juxtaposed with vibrant hues, such as the hot pink of a pretty maxi dress that had sweet ruffles framing the face, as well as a vivid orange-red cotton frock enriched by eyelet and a corset-like construction at the bodice.
The hyper-feminine vibe was counterbalance by utilitarian accents, popping up, for example, on a sleeveless top embellished with a zipper closure and applied pockets, as well as by the sartorial elegance of a belted blazer worn with tailored short pants.
The collection reached its peak when it offered the most signature look of the Self-Portrait brand. Case in point: the closing

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See the Best Fashion Looks at Spring 2020 Fashion Week: From Risqué Shirts to Blanket-Like Dresses

I Love Pretty - Front Row - September 2019 - New York Fashion Week: The ShowsThe fashion event of the year has officially kicked off!
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See the Best Fashion Looks at Spring 2020 Fashion Week: From Risqué Shirts to Blanket-Like Dresses

I Love Pretty - Front Row - September 2019 - New York Fashion Week: The ShowsThe fashion event of the year has officially kicked off!
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Kith Air RTW Spring 2020

Ronnie Fieg doesn’t do interviews for Kith shows. But the Queens, N.Y., native knows how to build anticipation: He shared behind-the-scenes photos and his thoughts on the process on his Instagram page before the Kith Air show on Thursday.
Shots of the Kith founder styling looks with Eugene Tong on celebs such as BMX athlete Nigel Sylvester and Angus Cloud from HBO’s “Euphoria” drew comments from Victor Cruz, Sara Sampaio and Justin Timberlake. Then the invite arrived — a giant bottle of Don Julio 1942 Tequila in a leather case with a Kith pattern lining. (Attendees didn’t have to bring the bottle to skip the long line at Cipriani in Lower Manhattan.)
But the star-studded event drew the likes of NBA athletes Kevin Love, PJ Tucker, Kelly Oubre Jr. and Rudy Gay; rappers Cam’ron, Fabolous, Joey Bada$ $ , Princess Nokia and YG, who arrived with new beau Kehlani; designers Tommy Hilfiger and Heron Preston; Sarah Andelman; Cruz and Karrueche Tran and others.
To preview his seasonal drops, Fieg projected varying 3-D-landscapes — a desert, a view from under the Eiffel Tower, a snow-capped mountain and New York City streetscapes — onto the immaculate walls and ceilings of Cipriani.
First up on his flight path, the

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Street Style at New York Fashion Week Spring 2020

At New York Fashion Week, the street style can be just as intriguing as the looks on the runway.
Cooler September temperatures have made the street style set forgo their traditional summer wear for more layers, including printed suits and matching sets worn in both neutrals and colorful prints. The monochromatic look is also proving to be a favorite, with showgoers gravitating toward greens, purples and pinks.
Read More: What to Expect at New York Fashion Week Spring 2020

They Are Wearing: Fashion Week Street Style Spring 2020. 
Andrew Morales/WWD

Some have already begun tapping into Pantone’s spring 2020 color palette, with a few sporting the forecaster’s top ranking hue: Flame Scarlet.

They Are Wearing: Fashion Week Street Style Spring 2020. 
Andrew Morales/WWD

Others are putting more emphasis on their accessories, like one attendee who complemented her look with Christian Louboutin Measuring Tape Sandals and another who wore Gucci’s New York Yankees baseball cap.

They Are Wearing: Fashion Week Street Style Spring 2020. 
Andrew Morales/WWD

Click through the above gallery to see more New York Fashion Week spring 2020 street style photos, updated each day.  
Read more on NYFW here:
The Biggest Fall 2019 Fashion Street Style Trends 
Celebrities at New York Fashion Week
Vanity Fair’s Best Dressed List Party at NYFW
WATCH: How to

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Markarian RTW Spring 2020

Last summer, designer Alexandra O’Neill traveled to Tuscany, Italy, fell in love with a family-owned, 1500s-era villa just outside of Siena, and decided she would return the next year to shoot her look book. Over the following year, whenever O’Neill was picking out her fabrics or designing new styles, she had the villa (plus a few of her favorite summer Italian movies) in mind. The collection included feminine takes on romance, like an “Under the Tuscan Sun” burnt sienna gingham day dress or Nineties-inspired easy floral silk dresses à la her personal favorite, “Only You,” and Bertolucci’s “Stealing Beauty,” which was indeed partially shot at the designer’s villa muse. 
While O’Neill’s inspiration provided the context for a beautifully romantic array, her biggest news came through her decision to mix her ready-to-wear and bridal collections together going forward.
“I decided to fold bridal into this collection, so instead of doing six collections a year, I will do bridal options for each season. I put 10 bridal looks into this collection — it ended up being 15 if you fudge it a little bit — but it’s mostly rehearsal dinner dresses, after party dresses and some main-day dresses,” O’Neill expressed. “My client comes to

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Red Valentino RTW Spring 2020

Pierpaolo Piccioli captured the most immediate and lively spirit of a never-ending summer with his charming collection for the Red Valentino brand.
Delicacy and femininity joined a chic metropolitan appeal in the fresh eyelet pieces, spanning from miniskirts worn with cropped matching blouses to generously cut parkas paired with lace bottoms. Mainly worked in black and white, the chic cotton style also welcomed bright accents, including the vivid red of a pretty halter neck dress enriched by floral white embroideries.
An exotic note was introduced via the vibrant prints of tropical flowers and birds splashed on flowing frocks and pajama sets, while butterfly-shaped patchwork details added a cute touch to denim designs, such as a slipdress and a jumpsuit revealing an exposed back and ruffled embellishments at the shoulders.
The brand’s signature craftsmanship stood out on cotton crochet skirts and bikinis, exuding a free-spirited, boho-chic vibe.
Versatile at heart, the lineup offered plenty of options for the Red Valentino girls, who next summer will also have the chance to shine bright at pool parties thanks to the allover sequined frocks — their hyper-feminine appeal exalted by romantic bow ties.

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Men’s Trend Spring 2020: Man as Muse

A new model of masculinity was on display at the men’s runway shows for spring as designers tapped into today’s tectonic cultural shifts to offer softer, more fluid and gender-bending styles, including pearls and handbags for men. It all generated an artistic vibe, as seen here in a Comme des Garçons coat with pleated sleeves and shorts suit.

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Knot Standard to Dress Spring Place Staff

Knot Standard, a custom men’s brand, has inked a deal to dress the staff at Spring Place.
The New York-based company has designed the uniforms for the collaborative workspace and members-only clubs in Los Angeles and New York. Knot Standard worked with the employees to get their measurements, fabric choices and personalized options. The staff will be provided with solid blue or navy suits made from either a lightweight wool cloth or a linen, wool and silk blend.
“Partnerships have been an important part of our strategy for growth since the beginning,” said John Ballay, chief executive officer and cofounder of Knot Standard. “We’re constantly seeking collaboration opportunities with like-minded brands to expand our reach at a local and national level. Spring Place and Knot Standard align on so many levels, and we’re proud to be a part of the Spring Place community.”
Bryan Woody, general manager of Spring Place New York and Beverly Hills, said Knot Standard “embodies our classic, elevated aesthetic. “Like Spring Place, Knot Standard is a customer-driven brand that is constantly evolving and innovating to meet clients’ needs. Our uniform speaks volumes to who we are as a company, and we value a partner like Knot Standard that shares

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NYFW Spring 2020: What to Expect at New York Fashion Week in September

As summer enters its final month, the fashion industry is gearing up for another show season, but it’s starting with a New York Fashion Week that’s a bit different from seasons past.
The biggest news for the spring 2020 collections is that NYFW will be on a shorter official schedule, down to six days of shows listed on the calendar released by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. The initiative to trim down the schedule was spearheaded by the CFDA’s new chairman, designer Tom Ford, who assumed the role from longtime CFDA head, Diane von Furstenberg, in June. Upon his appointment as CFDA chairman, Ford said reinventing NYFW was a top priority.
From which designers are showing to Ford’s role as CFDA chairman, here is what to expect from NYFW spring 2020.
1. A shorter schedule for NYFW spring 2020

Models at the Carolina Herrera fall 2019 show. 
Swan Gallet/WWD/REX/Shutterstock

This September, the Council of Fashion Designers of America is introducing a shorter, more compact schedule for New York Fashion Week, decreasing to six days of runway shows and presentations. The schedule will now begin on Friday, Sept. 6 — with the first show a “performance” by Telfar — and will end on Wednesday, Sept.

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Willy Chavarria Men’s Spring 2020

Sex, love, glamour and immigration.
All these hot topics, mixed with masculine queer culture, set the tone for Willy Chavarria’s runway return to New York — and boy, was he missed.
Known for his Chicano heritage vibes, Chavarria’s former stint in the Nineties, the creation of “The Love Garage,” a club in San Fransisco that embraced rave culture and gritty house music, served as one of the key components of his take on what minimalism can mean.
In this case, the usually big, oversize silhouette that has defined Chavarria took a sophisticated turn that still managed to maintain a tough edge.

The first portion of the show showcased standouts such as a black washed satin robe with matching shorts, along with an array of flared and high-waisted denim numbers, often paired with souvenir jackets or matching oversize boxy shirts. Quilted leather handbags, an item typically associated with high luxury, adorned most of the models, along with black and gold chains used as necklaces, belts and handbags, which provided a refined touch.
Part two featured a collaboration with athletic brand K-Swiss: a Nineties California Chicano tennis prep collection — oversize pastels in blue and pink with a bit of neon that enhanced sweatshirts, baggy shorts and

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SportChek – Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Spring Jackets 30% Off at SportChek. Valid 7/11-7/25. Shop Now!

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SportChek – Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Spring Jackets 30% Off at SportChek. Valid 7/11-7/25. Shop Now!

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Beaufille RTW Spring 2020

Chloé and Parris Gordon drew on their recent, first visit to Japan for inspiration, and delivered a clean, modern lineup with a healthy amount of artistry. They used a bright orange, ultra-thin yet super-strong fabric to craft a series of romantic blouses and dresses — unfussy cuts with carefully dosed ruffled accents, or puffy sleeves. Also uplifting: a paper-thin waxed cotton made into a bright, orange rain dress. Who needs a traditional raincoat?
The pair likes to take their clients from day to evening. With this in mind, they crafted a transformable, button-up blouse with an extra flap to wrap around the neck like a handkerchief; similarly transformable, a tan suit jacket, with straps to cinch around the waist or leave open, with a different effect. Trained at a design school in Nova Scotia that teaches all stages of the garment-making process — down to weaving materials to make fabric — the designers seek to make sturdy, well-made pieces that exude effortless chic. In a nod to their artistic mother, who encouraged their creativity growing up — they recalled she would unfurl rolls of brown paper for them to decorate — they used one of her paintings as a pattern for

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Zoë Jordan RTW Spring 2020

Zoë Jordan worked a lively, Ibiza-flavored lineup of sporty knitwear apt for the festival circuit — or the beach. Keeping things easy, her signature cashmere tracksuits came in chic ivory tones or bright, tie-dyed numbers, reflecting her lifestyle change from the city in London to that Mediterranean outcrop where the jet-set crowd lets loose. Long, mesh tops with low, drawstring waists came in lizard green or melon yellow, new accents in a universe dominated by pinks and oranges; an Eighties-flavored layer to toss over a swimsuit. Slightly distressed touches and cutout holes added a touch of shabby chicness of the techno-festival sort, including the frayed bottom of a tie-died skirt and holes in the arms of a bright pink sweater that was dip-dyed — a new technique for the label. Also new, a crocheted dress, cut like an extra-long tank top, all stripes. The sportier looks were also striped, including halter tops and shorts, anchoring the profusion of papaya-pink.

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Isabel Marant Étoile RTW Spring 2020

For the spring collection of Isabel Marant’s Étoile line, the designer worked her trademark volumes into a fashionable lineup that melded seduction with comfort. Amped-up shoulders added heft — on a feminine, embroidered peasant blouse or gray acid washed jean jackets and vests. There were a lot of one-piece looks, including a vest-shorts combo in a faded tie-dye print, a long trouser jumpsuit in a western-inspired floral pattern and a dark boiler suit, cinched at the ankle, with ample volumes on the shoulders and arms. Fluidity came in the form of airy blouses and flower-printed dresses in silk chiffon while structured numbers included a double-breasted flannel suit and quilted jackets. In the footwear department, choices included ivory cowboy boots or studded white wide-leg heels.

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Rag & Bone’s Mashed-up Men’s Spring Collection

Marcus Wainwright is feeling twisted these days.
For the spring men’s collection, Wainwright, the founder and chief brand officer of Rag & Bone, “mashed things up” by taking the brand’s key pieces and updating them to appeal to a street and sports fan.
Wainwright said the collection just returned to New York after being shown to buyers in Europe, where it received a strong reception from retailers.
“Our men’s business is really strong,” he said. “Men’s in general is having a prolonged moment and ours is very stable and growing nicely.”
But what customers were clamoring for, he said, was “more fashion.” Not over-the-top trendy items, but pieces that “push the line and the tenets of the brand,” he said.
So for spring Wainwright answered the call by designing “a more twisted Rag & Bone,” he said during a walkthrough of the line at the company’s Meatpacking District showroom in Manhattan. “Every season we go back to workwear, British tailoring and military references but we’re also bringing in sports elements.”
Case in point: part of the spring offering was “very loosely inspired by tennis from the 1920s onward,” Wainwright said, pointing to a collection of sweaters with V-neck ribbing and other details specific to the sport.
Other

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Men’s Spring 2020 Trend: Pastel Path

Strongly associated with Easter — and the Eighties — pastels made major inroads at the European men’s shows for spring 2020. At Louis Vuitton, men’s artistic director Virgil Abloh opened and closed his outdoor display with a range of loose tailoring and sportswear in dusty shades.

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Men’s Spring 2020 Trend: Hang Loose

Men’s wear designers amped up the volume for spring — from looser cuts on suits and trousers to flowing ponchos and baggy knitwear. Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons captured the style with her stellar collection, which played on the theme of Virginia Woolf’s “Orlando,” and also hit the genderless trend.

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Acne Studios RTW Spring 2020

For his spring collection, Jonny Johansson turned to nature, considering the evergreen question of how to reconcile modern life with the tug of the natural world. 
“It’s a lot about the connection to nature — that I feel we’re all interested in,” he said. He sought to capture a feminine aesthetic for the theme, which he described as a way of dressing in a “more sensitive, layered way than a protected, city way that would be more graphic.”
The resulting lineup was a fluid display of the house’s expertise, channeled into a frayed, knotted, repurposed, and, ultimately, richly textured universe. Sweater vests and gowns were knitted intricately to evoke a distressed feel. Leggings splayed out at the bottom to cover the feet and carried extra seams in odd places. So, too, did dresses, with pleats stitched through the fabric like veins, or folds. Familiar symbols, like Western belt buckles, were blown up, becoming embellishments on sandals that had straps poking out everywhere. Softness came from a profusion of suede and linen, while jacquards and denim added structure. Reproductions of 19th-century paintings by August Strindberg were pressed onto clothing, depicting the murky side of the city or celebrating nature in the form of

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Men’s Spring 2020 Trend: Graphic Art

Bold prints and patterns were all over the men’s runways for spring, with many designers collaborating with artists on the looks. Turning the process on its head, and creating a new paradigm, was artist Sterling Ruby, who has added “designer” to his résumé with his brand S.R. Studio. LA. CA., coming up with one of the standout collections of the season.

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Artica Arbox Men’s Spring 2020

Irene Roth, founder and creative director of Insta-friendly streetwear label Artica Arbox, wanted to create a dialog between the physical and digital worlds and how we communicate today. Pixelated graphics and texts punctuated simple bright sweatshirts, tees and outerwear – in vivid yellow and tomato red, for example – and were juxtaposed with more tactile pieces evocative of the “real world,” like a ribbed sweater in beige, navy and gray or a retro shell suit. PVC panel details and elastic trims added to the touch-and-feel dimension.
The young label continues to gain traction at retail – with only three collections for women and this its second for men, stockists already include Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York, Selfridges, Galeries Lafayette and Boon the Shop.

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Myar Men’s Spring 2020

Myar is showing its colors for spring. Andrea Rosso’s army uniform upcycling label this season matched military-sourced camouflage with multi-hued patterns from deadstock Hawaiian shirts, calling the collection Re_­Aloha. “We love to mix together two worlds that don’t belong together in a very harmonic way,” he explained.
The combinations’ visual effects are striking and fun. Pieces of a Hawaiian shirt, cut into camouflage shapes, were superimposed onto some uniforms. A green military fatigue pocket popped up on a similarly hued shirt emblazoned with palm trees. Blue military trousers took on a playful quality with piping made of shirting material.
On a number of garments, silhouettes of palm trees had been hand-stamped. “Every time it comes out differently,” Rosso said.
As in past seasons, Myar clothing comes with pouches containing excess fabric from its making-of. But this time, each also has a QR code through which it’s possible for people to learn about the provenance of the items and how they’ve been customized.
In another first, Myar created a dress, made of two military shirts put together. “Our biggest clients actually are females,” explained Rosso. “We have a unisex approach to the collection, even though these items are 100 percent made for men.”
The brand’s collaboration with

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Jil Sander Men’s Spring 2020

The heat of the desert and the cobbled streets of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern towns hung over this spare, elegant collection, which had a subtle, exotic flavor.
Lucie and Luke Meier’s shapes ranged from the boxy to the languid, with the color, pattern and texture doing most of the talking.
An elongated, marine blue shirtdress; a spare, branch-like design on the back of a long, sweeping coat, and the fringes or tassels on a sweater were among the standouts.
Luke said fluid tailoring remains the way forward for the brand, which has long been synonymous with pared-back shapes and fine details. Lucie added that the collection’s value lies in its subtlety, its “poetry and detail,” and its lightweight fabrics.
The couple have been turning their hands and minds to sustainability, too, working materials such as organic banana fiber into pieces such as the black-and-white trenchcoat that appeared in the show. Lucie said the fiber is a dream because it behaves like gazar, but it’s lighter and offers structure without the stiffness.
All of that fabric research meant that even the simplest of pieces sang — the boxy khaki workwear suits, the navy overcoats and those oversized, billowy white cotton shirts, fit for long strolls under

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Amiri Men’s Spring 2020

The feel-good vibes of the Summer of Love pervaded Mike Amiri’s coed offering for spring. Tactile fabrics like velvet and chiffon in a rainbow of pastel shades just begged to be touched in this mellow, romantic lineup that was a major step away from the grungier ethos of his past collections.
Soft tailoring played a much bigger part — testament perhaps to the buzzy brand’s collaboration with Renzo Rosso’s OTB holding, which recently took a minority stake in Amiri, and the use of Italian workshops. It took forms including a pantsuit in mint green Lurex jacquard and loose tuxedo pants in baby blue with glittering side stripes, paired with a double-breasted waistcoat over a crochet tank top. The outerwear was also strong, as in a trenchcoat in cornflower blue corduroy, another, sleeveless, in mint green snakeskin-effect leather.
Flared pants came in velvet, corduroy or suede, with front ties for the feminine designs, while pale knits added to the overall delicate feel of the collection.
Tie-dyed tops — a satin bomber with guitar-strap edging was a highlight — and a denim jacket painted with the face of Jimi Hendrix were clear nods toward psychedelia, but elsewhere, the references were less literal and all the

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Acne Studios Men’s Spring 2020

Jonny Johansson built a colorful and youthful lineup, rearranging familiar silhouettes and polishing them up for a fashion-hungry generation.
The designer once lived near a student campus, where he felt the breeziness of the students passing by — more seasoned than school kids, but not quite yet melded into the Establishment.
He recounted the scene: “I could see them — on the bicycle, always — some cool cat coming by with a blazer flying or a weird scarf.”
His cool cats grabbed this spirit and took off with it — dismounting the bicycle and hitting the streets of a fashion capital.
Suits were beautifully colored statement pieces, structured and boxy. This sturdiness was offset by interesting experiments with knits — a bright red sweater looked like a poncho, covered in fringes, while a top with a thin ruffle running across the chest felt more like a blouse than a sweater. His masterful handling of gender fluidity was also seen in a look that paired a sheer pastel shirt with lace trim and elegant, but masculine trousers, in black. Scarves, which are popping up all over the men’s shows, were worn around the neck with extra flair.
Embellishments came in the form of plastic panels —

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Cmmn Swdn Men’s Spring 2020

Adding an air of the tropics, python-inspired textures, exotic leaves and Seventies scarf motifs peppered the lineup of loose masculine tailoring. The overall mood telegraphed desert French Foreign Legionnaires, with Emma and Saif Bakir exploring military influences and subtle vintage touches.
The sense of heat was enhanced by the cracked leathers and burned holes dotting the large white short-sleeved shirts worn with Bermuda shorts with culotte volumes.
The feeling of hot-weather dressing was enhanced by the long scarves hanging from under caps, lending an allure of a desert trooper or Bedouin, while an ethnic flavor came through in the patterns of the pants with panels that tied at the front like a sarong.
The soft boxy shapes of the coats and tailored jackets were balanced by rock-style tight jeans in dark brown or yellow leather, or tight cycling short-style bottoms made from a shiny snakeskin print fabric and worn with large nylon coats printed with palm leaves or Fifties-style cropped sandy colored jackets.
Soft feminine looking fabrics balanced the masculinity of the shapes, lending a sense of delicate nostalgia to the collection, which nonetheless lacked a strong visual identity. Like a silhouette appearing on the desert horizon, distorted by the heat, a mirage.

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Represent Men’s Spring 2020

Designer brothers George and Michael Heaton made a few changes this season, pulling their show off the Milan runway in order to focus on a new ad campaign shot by Jordan Green. The campaign, themed around a car accident in the remote countryside and involving an English bull terrier, lands in the next few weeks on billboards and fly posters on both sides of the Atlantic.
The brothers also decamped to Rockfield Studios in Wales, recently featured in the film “Bohemian Rhapsody,” to unplug from their Manchester studio and get some fresh perspective.
The collection, on display in a Milan showroom, had more than a whiff of the countryside to it, and was done in a palette of olive green, brown, black and camel for the duo’s street-meets-utilitarian wear silhouettes. There were oversize Windbreakers inspired by fellow Mancunian Noel Gallagher, camou trousers and shorts, and hunting, field jackets and plaid coats fit for cold Welsh mornings.
The standout print featured vintage cars on T-shirts and pajama-style tops, a reference to the vintage cars parked in the driveway in front of Rockfield and to the theme of the upcoming ad campaign.

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Bed J.W. Ford Men’s Spring 2020

“I wanted to explore this idea of a strong man, but it just didn’t fit with my universe,” said Shinpei Yamagishi, who decided to hire a female patternmaker to explore the topic from her point of view.
The result, a collection equally at ease with its feminine and masculine sides, felt true to form, heightened by lovely fabric developments, like a velvet houndstooth and exquisite handmade Indian embroidery details that formed contrast bands on black tailoring and long shirts, lending a lingerie feel, with soft coats hanging from the backs of looks.
Shirts and jackets patterned with inky stains were made using an eco-friendly bleach, borrowing a technique typically used for making kimono’s in Tokyo’s Kyoto district.
Key looks include a silk-crepe buttoned and belted tunic worn under a fluid tailored houndstooth suit that had a sensuality to it, resembling a pantsuit worn over pajamas, as well as a hooded sand-colored satin jacket and long tunic with embroidered lacy motifs at the hem, worn over a large tapered pant and spats, mixing military nods with femininity and romance.
Adding a contemporary twist were a couple of color-blocked turquoise, red, yellow and black looks from the designer’s ongoing collaboration with Adidas Originals.

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Versace Men’s Spring 2020

Buckle up and put on those Biggie sunglasses because Donatella is roaring into town in her arty black Ferrari, and she’s ready for some fun, Nineties Versace style. Boy, did the designer pile it on for spring, with leopard spots, colored crystals, car prints and Lilly Pulitzer-decamps-to-Miami neon brights. And that was the men’s wear, not the few women’s looks.
Few surfaces in the collection were untouched by print, gloss or sparkle as models glowed and flashed like beacons on a dark road. Bold and garish, the show was 100-proof Versace, utterly true to the brand’s roots, and to the Gianni-cum-Donatella aesthetic of more, more, more – and repeat – preferably while swinging a leopard-print bag.
There was nothing subtle going on here, what with the big Gianni Versace signature splashed over neckties, or picked out in lines of tiny crystals on silk patterned shirts. For anyone wondering who Versace’s new owners are, there were some big clues in the baseball caps and Gianni Versace signature socks, classic entry price merch to please the folks at the publicly-quoted Capri Holdings.
While the yellow, orange, green or blue-tinged sunglasses didn’t carry big branding, they were a vintage house style, designed for the Notorious B.I.G.

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Salvatore Ferragamo Men’s Spring 2020

Having Palazzo Vecchio as the backdrop of a runway show is a privilege that only a quintessential Florentine brand such as Salvatore Ferragamo with a long history in this Tuscan city could hope to pull off. Of course such an incredible backdrop might have become a bit overwhelming with a weak collection. But that wasn’t the case for the lineup creative director Paul Andrew showed on Tuesday night.
The antique beauty of the Piazza della Signoria square actually created a charming contrast to the slightly futuristic take on the utilitarian aesthetic injected into the collection. Salvatore Ferragamo’s incredible craftsmanship and heritage stood out, but in a new version, never nostalgic or retro, but projected into the future. The high-tech approach to the treatment of materials, including leather which was embossed and then waxed for a glossy effect, as well a certain sharpness in the cuts, conveyed a look that felt very modern and cool yet never cold or too minimal. Accessories helped put the focus on the duality of the lineup: while the sailing bags and the leather sandals exuded classic elegance, the multipocket bags and chunky boots offered the most functional and cutting-edge essence of Andrew’s fashion proposal for

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Chalayan Men’s Spring 2020

Easy, cool and lightning-quick.
Hussein Chalayan’s show took place on a little pedestrian street across from his Mayfair store, and the setup was refreshingly simple, with all guests standing, Mother Nature providing the lighting and models carrying their own music, via little boomboxes that came straight from 1986.
There may have been a complex, interesting back story to the clothes — Chalayan is passionate about what he does, and his collections are often underpinned by sociopolitical and historical themes — but the collection itself was a breeze.
There were stripes galore, on suits with ties at the waist and down the leg, on cotton shirts and billowy or flat-front trousers and on collarless tops. Trousers and shorts were rolled at the bottom, some came with flaps or folds, while lightweight shirts were boxy or had rounded shoulders and elbow-skimming sleeves.
Silhouettes were languid and made for hot-weather climes, and Chalayan shaped them with a drawstring here and a snap, knot or buckle there.
While he may have begun with the idea of dance and movement among ethnic groups colonized by Western nations, and about the tensions between indigenous cultures and their occupiers across the centuries, he ended with the most democratic of collections, which should

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Qasimi Men’s Spring 2020

Some 12 tons of coffee grounds were used to pave the runway of Qasimi’s runway. “I wanted something poetic that evokes the senses. It has the right texture and color, and smells good,” said designer Khalid S. Al Qasimi after the show.
He didn’t grind those coffee beans for the show, of course – the grounds were sourced from a company that recycles them to make burning logs.
The UAE-born designer wanted his new collection to address the political tension in the Middle East where he comes from, and give it a sense of positivity.
“I have to be political, it’s not just on trend. Coming from the Middle East, I have a duty to discuss politics. Fashion is my kind of material to work with and expressing it,” he said.
Political messages aside, the clothes were well made, breezy and relaxed and ideal for the hot, urban and wealthy environs of Dubai. There were striped oversized T-shirts, loose shirts, trench coats and military jackets in beige, mustard, olive green, navy and grey, while the few pink and lilac sporty looks will be great for nights out in the Lamborghini.

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Ji Oh RTW Spring 2020

Ji Oh is making sexy girly clothes! Well, it’s not such a dramatic shift when you examine the collection more closely, but it is new territory for the designer who favors shirting and a boyish uniform aesthetic. There was more skin, and skirts heavily outnumbered pants. During a preview, she noted too that this season’s uniform was younger, less serious and referential to a traditional school uniform.
But we’re talking about a designer who often plays with experimental construction, and that pillar of her process hasn’t changed. She offered a lot of fun convertibility in mostly patchwork designs, such as a linen plaid dress you could remove the front part of the skirt to show more skin, or another linear trenchcoat dress that simultaneously shortened and bunched up with asymmetric buttons.
It applied to denim, too, which is a new category that Oh mixed with other fabrics into a cool shirtdress with denim sleeves, or kept clean in a pair of high-double-waisted jeans.
She exposed skin in a lot of creative ways, based on how she dresses personally, and a reason why she decided to take the collection in a more feminine direction for spring. Jackets were cropped, pieces detached, cutouts were made,

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Wan Hung Men’s Spring 2020

In his second runway show at New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Wan Hung expanded and enhanced his design language through elevated basics in vibrant monochromatic looks and dark ensembles.
Metamorphosis was the theme of the Central Saint Martins graduate’s spring collection that was based on the Green Snake Chinese folk legend about snakes transforming into human beings.
Several tops in the collection feature asymmetric patterns, open backs, exposed shoulders and cutout details on T-shirts, shirts and sweatshirts, as well as transparent tops and jackets intended to represent shedding skin.
Hung also looked to the film “A Streetcar Named Desire” and drew comparisons between the folk legend and characters Stella Kowalski and Blanche DuBois, specifically how the sisters grew to be so different over time. With this in mind, Hung unveiled women’s dresses as a nod to the legend and the film.

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Spring Wedding Guest Dresses Under $50

E-Comm: Spring Wedding Guest Dresses Under $  50We love these products, and we hope you do too. E! has affiliate relationships, so we may get a small share of the revenue from your purchases. Items are sold by the retailer, not E!.
As…

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Books of The Times: In ‘Spring,’ Ali Smith’s Series Takes Its Most Political Turn

The third book in Smith’s seasonal cycle is about a filmmaker, an old lefty, trying to make sense of the new world.
NYT > Books

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Our Faves From Aldo’s Spring Sale–Now Up to 50% Off

E-Comm: Aldo's Spring Sale We love these products, and we hope you do too. E! has affiliate relationships, so we may get a small share of the revenue from your purchases. Items are sold by the retailer, not…

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Our Faves From Aldo’s Spring Sale–Now Up to 50% Off

E-Comm: Aldo's Spring Sale We love these products, and we hope you do too. E! has affiliate relationships, so we may get a small share of the revenue from your purchases. Items are sold by the retailer, not…

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Spring Gallery Guide: Over 40 Art Shows to See Right Now

From Bushwick to Harlem, with many stops in between, our art critics take stock of the best shows this spring.
NYT > Arts

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Spring Denim Trends on Sale Now

E-Comm: Spring Denim on SaleBy now we’re well into the swing of spring, and we don’t have to tell you that there are tons of fun things that come along with this sunnier season.
Among our favorite activities…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

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Jennifer Lopez and Selena Gomez’s Manicurist Tom Bachik Breaks Down Top Spring Nail Trends

Jennifer LopezIt’s time to put those winter sweaters into hibernation and celebrate the return of spring. Let’s start with our nails because nail art is having a serious moment in 2019 and we need to…

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Splits59.com – Shop our new Spring 2019 new classics collection and get FREE SHIPPING and Free Returns! Shop Now!

Splits59 has just dropped their Spring 2019 new classics collection! New arrivals include fitted tanks, leggings, sports bras and comfy sweats. Free shipping and returns on all U.S. orders
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Add a Pop of Pastel With These Spring Trends

E-Comm: Pop of Pastel for SpringWith spring comes a sense of newness, a fresh start if you will.
No longer are you drawn to moody dark colors like basic black. Instead you’re inspired by nature and more into the…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

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Splits59.com – Shop our new Spring 2019 new classics collection and get FREE SHIPPING and Free Returns! Shop Now!

Splits59 has just dropped their Spring 2019 new classics collection! New arrivals include fitted tanks, leggings, sports bras and comfy sweats. Free shipping and returns on all U.S. orders
Code: No Code Needed
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Splits59.com – Shop our new Spring 2019 new classics collection and get FREE SHIPPING and Free Returns! Shop Now!

Splits59 has just dropped their Spring 2019 new classics collection! New arrivals include fitted tanks, leggings, sports bras and comfy sweats. Free shipping and returns on all U.S. orders
Code: No Code Needed
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Splits59.com – Shop our new Spring 2019 new classics collection and get FREE SHIPPING and Free Returns! Shop Now!

Splits59 has just dropped their Spring 2019 new classics collection! New arrivals include fitted tanks, leggings, sports bras and comfy sweats. Free shipping and returns on all U.S. orders
Code: No Code Needed
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Splits59.com – Shop our new Spring 2019 new classics collection and get FREE SHIPPING and Free Returns! Shop Now!

Splits59 has just dropped their Spring 2019 new classics collection! New arrivals include fitted tanks, leggings, sports bras and comfy sweats. Free shipping and returns on all U.S. orders
Code: No Code Needed
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‘Five Nights at Freddy’s VR: Help Wanted’ Comes to PSVR This Spring

“Five Nights at Freddy’s VR: Help Wanted” is making the jump to virtual reality via PlayStation VR this spring. In the new virtual reality installment of the jump scare-laden horror game, you’ll try to survive levels from the original games in addition to “all-new nightmares,” Sony announced during the presentation. This story is developing…

Variety

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Our Favorite Tote Bags for Spring

E-Comm: Best Totes for SpringAdulting is hard and, no matter how long you’ve been doing it, one thing is certain: There’s so much stuff that comes along with it.
When you’re trying to be successful and…

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How to Wear White This Spring

E-Comm: How To Wear WhiteWe love a seasonal wardrobe switch-up–especially when it’s from winter to spring.
No longer do we have to trudge around in bulky boots and overwhelming layers. Instead, it’s all…

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Bloomingdale’s Introducing Dylan Gray Men’s Brand for Spring

Bloomingdale’s is getting back into the men’s private brand business.
A decade after the retailer retired its in-house collections brands, Joseph & Lyman and Metropolitan View, in favor of a classifications strategy, it is launching a bridge collection for spring under the name Dylan Gray.
The line is described as “a modern, sophisticated update on classic men’s sportswear that fuses the elegance of European luxury with the ease of American sportswear.”
The 38-piece collection of soft tailored clothing, transitional outerwear, knits and trousers is manufactured predominantly in Europe. It is designed to be a hybrid of tailored and sportswear.
“We felt there was a white space in the European transitional classic zone in our stores,” said Dan Leppo, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s and home for Bloomingdale’s. “We think there’s an opportunity with all that’s happening in direct-to-consumer today to offer great value and great fashion that moves beyond commodity.”
Leppo said Dylan Gray is “made with the modern man in mind, offering solutions for work or play for today’s smart casual lifestyle, without sacrificing style. It’s about fusing classic sportswear with Old World sophistication at a compelling price point.”
Prices will range from $ 98 to $ 698 and will include marled bird’s-eye polos,

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Best Jackets for Spring

E-Comm: Best Jackets for SpringSpring has sprung, and we are more than ready for it–well, sort of.
From a clothing perspective, we could honestly use a few fresh spring jackets–that aren’t too heavy–to rotate…

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Best Jackets for Spring

E-Comm: Best Jackets for SpringSpring has sprung, and we are more than ready for it–well, sort of.
From a clothing perspective, we could honestly use a few fresh spring jackets–that aren’t too heavy–to rotate…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

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Spring Sandals to Slide Into

E-Comm: Spring Sandals to Slide IntoHaven’t you heard?
Today is officially the first day of spring, and you know what that means: Time to trade in clunky winter boots for chic warm-weather slides.
Slides remain…

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Modell’s Sporting Goods – ONE DAY ONLY: 25% Off One Regular Priced Item Or 10% Off Your Total Purchase at Modells. Use Code SPRING

ONE DAY ONLY: 25% Off One Regular Priced Item Or 10% Off Your Total Purchase at Modells. Use Code SPRING
Code: SPRING
Begin: 2019-03-20 00:00:00
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Pack Like a Celeb for Spring Break

E-Comm: Pack Like a Celeb for Spring BreakGoing on a spring break trip somewhere fun is the highlight of anyone’s time off.
This time of year, chances are you’re going to a warm and tropical destination. While you’re…

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SPECIAL DEAL UPDATE!

Les Mills Equipment – Spring 10% Off Site Wide

Save 10% off site wide, excluding Don Oliver, resistance tubes, gift cards, and the Total Body Reinvention Training Pack.
Code: SPRING10
Begin: 2019-03-01 00:00:00
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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Buy Any Spring Sport Item (Baseball, Softball, Lacrosse, Soccer), Get 20% Off All Regular Price Items In Your Order. Use Code PLAY20

Buy Any Spring Sport Item (Baseball, Softball, Lacrosse, Soccer) Get 20% Off All Regular Price Items In Your Order. Use Code PLAY20
Code: PLAY20
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Discount School Supply – SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $300 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!

SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $ 100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $ 99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $ 500 Get $ 100, Spend $ 300 Get $ 50, Spend $ 100 Get $ 15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!
Code: SPRING19
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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Buy Any Spring Sport Item (Baseball, Softball, Lacrosse, Soccer), Get 20% Off All Regular Price Items In Your Order. Use Code PLAY20

Buy Any Spring Sport Item (Baseball, Softball, Lacrosse, Soccer) Get 20% Off All Regular Price Items In Your Order. Use Code PLAY20
Code: PLAY20
Begin: 2019-03-11 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-03-15 00:00:00
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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Buy Any Spring Sport Item (Baseball, Softball, Lacrosse, Soccer), Get 20% Off All Regular Price Items In Your Order. Use Code PLAY20

Buy Any Spring Sport Item (Baseball, Softball, Lacrosse, Soccer) Get 20% Off All Regular Price Items In Your Order. Use Code PLAY20
Code: PLAY20
Begin: 2019-03-11 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-03-15 00:00:00
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Discount School Supply – SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $300 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!

SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $ 100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $ 99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $ 500 Get $ 100, Spend $ 300 Get $ 50, Spend $ 100 Get $ 15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!
Code: SPRING19
Begin: 2019-03-04 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-04-01 00:00:00
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Modell’s Sporting Goods – Buy Any Spring Sport Item (Baseball, Softball, Lacrosse, Soccer), Get 20% Off All Regular Price Items In Your Order. Use Code PLAY20

Buy Any Spring Sport Item (Baseball, Softball, Lacrosse, Soccer) Get 20% Off All Regular Price Items In Your Order. Use Code PLAY20
Code: PLAY20
Begin: 2019-03-11 00:00:00
Expire: 2019-03-15 00:00:00
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Discount School Supply – SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $300 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!

SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $ 100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $ 99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $ 500 Get $ 100, Spend $ 300 Get $ 50, Spend $ 100 Get $ 15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!
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Les Mills Equipment – Spring 10% Off Site Wide

Save 10% off site wide, excluding Don Oliver, resistance tubes, gift cards, and the Total Body Reinvention Training Pack.
Code: SPRING10
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Discount School Supply – SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $300 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!

SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $ 100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $ 99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $ 500 Get $ 100, Spend $ 300 Get $ 50, Spend $ 100 Get $ 15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!
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Discount School Supply – SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $300 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!

SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $ 100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $ 99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $ 500 Get $ 100, Spend $ 300 Get $ 50, Spend $ 100 Get $ 15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!
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Discount School Supply – SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $500 Get $100, Spend $300 Get $50, Spend $100 Get $15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!

SPRING CRAFT & SCHOOL SUPPLY SALE! Save Up To $ 100 OFF Plus Free Shipping On Orders Over $ 99 – At Discount School Supply! Use Code: SPRING19 – Spend $ 500 Get $ 100, Spend $ 300 Get $ 50, Spend $ 100 Get $ 15 Off! Expires 3/31/19!
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Les Mills Equipment – Spring 10% Off Site Wide

Save 10% off site wide, excluding Don Oliver, resistance tubes, gift cards, and the Total Body Reinvention Training Pack.
Code: SPRING10
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Les Mills Equipment – Spring 10% Off Site Wide

Save 10% off site wide, excluding Don Oliver, resistance tubes, gift cards, and the Total Body Reinvention Training Pack.
Code: SPRING10
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Les Mills Equipment – Spring 10% Off Site Wide

Save 10% off site wide, excluding Don Oliver, resistance tubes, gift cards, and the Total Body Reinvention Training Pack.
Code: SPRING10
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Les Mills Equipment – Spring 10% Off Site Wide

Save 10% off site wide, excluding Don Oliver, resistance tubes, gift cards, and the Total Body Reinvention Training Pack.
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What to See in New York City This Spring

Broadway, Wagner’s “Ring,” the opening of the Shed: what our critics and writers are looking forward to this season.
NYT > Arts

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Kate Spade’s Niece, Actress Rachel Brosnahan, to Appear in Frances Valentine Spring Campaign

Rachel Brosnahan, the award-winning star of “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel” will appear in the Frances Valentine spring campaign.
Brosnahan is the niece of the late Kate Spade, who died last June at the age of 55.
Brosnahan revealed the news on the “Today” show this morning, telling Hoda Kotb, “I think when you lose someone you love very, very much, you spend a lot of time trying to think about how to keep their spirit alive. I think in Katy’s case, there is so much of her left behind, and this was an opportunity for us to celebrate her life and her legacy.”
Designer Kate Spade launched Frances Valentine in 2016 with her husband, Andy, naming it after their 13-year-old daughter, Frances Beatrix. It is currently designed by the label’s chief executive officer Elyce Arons. The collection features vintage-inspired and colorful handbags.
In one of the campaign images, Brosnahan is photographed holding a square yellow satchel called the “Midge,” named after her character on “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel.” It was released in 2017 before Spade’s death.
The 28-year-old actress has won a Primetime Emmy Award for Outstanding Lead Actress in a Comedy Series in 2018 and two consecutive Golden Globe Awards for Best Actress-Television Series

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Azzi & Osta Couture Spring 2019

Lebanese designers George Azzi and Assaad Osta presented their silk road inspired couture collection in Paris. The designers, who both worked with Elie Saab, before launching their own label, have known each other since design school days and shared a mutual fascination with journey of dressmaking. “It was always very fascinating to us how silk as a luxury had to travel from one side of the earth to another to get to the royal courts of Europe,” Osta said. Each piece from the collection paid tribute to a city, monument or memorable landmark along the road. The designers used various techniques including pleating, antique embroideries and the sculptured structures to reflect the journey. The color palette reflected of the skies from dusk to dawn, with shades of jade green, cerulean blue, jasmine white, powder pink, lilac, mulberry yellow and twilight blue.
“The idea of how secretive and protected the provenance and art of silk making was is very similar to couture, the savoir faire, the well-kept secret of the couture house, and the journey that undertakes every piece,” Azzi added. The designers have caught the attention of celebrities, dressing Beyoncé, Cardi B and Kendall Jenner.

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Aganovich Couture Spring 2019

It was a striking scene. Ghostly couture silhouettes designed by Nana Aganovich and Brooke Taylor, the duo behind Aganovich, seemed eerier still once set against the backdrop of a carpenter’s workshop.
A roaring fire rattled the panes of the Parisian atelier to the sound of pigeons cooing while models slowly navigated their way along the machines, surrounded by wood planks and various hardware. The label’s second couture collection explored the story of a woman on a journey: “She’s armed and protected, but as she goes through life things happen and she becomes someone different,” Aganovich explained.
This was expressed by trailing unfinished hems, giving the impression of the looks unraveling before the viewers’ eyes. The models’ faces were constricted by veils, with the occasional addition of fake locks of hair piled on top of their heads.
The looks were all about contrast. White billowing silhouettes were pitted against yellow plaid suits, a Victorian gown followed a jacket with a structured waist, and a delicate feather-rimmed skirt was given a hard edge when paired with leather boots held up by safety pins.
As expected of a couture collection, all the materials were treated in Paris by the label’s atelier. The brand uses the same patterns as

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Guo Pei Couture Spring 2019

Guo Pei took to the temple, allowing her imagination to roam a spiritual safe haven of palatial proportions. With elaborate craftsmanship as the driving force, the designer offered a wide-ranging futuristic and Gothic-infused lineup, part warrior princess, part illustrious queen.
An unusual experiment with waders came at the start of the show, covered in golden-hued dragons and hanging open at the thigh to reveal a pair of bright blue HotPants. On top, more skin, with tasseled shoulder armor leaving an exposed bellybutton.
The complexity of her pieces can be overwhelming, even if they’re sent down the runway at a snail’s pace affording time for a good look. Models were perched on towering platform shoes — architectural pieces, too, like the garments.
Show notes cited gold wiring techniques and padded, three-dimensional embroidery. In one example, a teeth-baring dragon jutted off a shoulder, hanging on to the arm with a claw, its feather-tufted body snaking down one leg of the model. It was a dress, with an open slit and one leg covered in a sequined, mesh skin — at once spectacular and handsome, prompting spontaneous applause from the audience.
Her dragons were everywhere, hailing from the Han dynasty, which had them slim and masterful at

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Armani Privé Couture Spring 2019

Invitations for Giorgio Armani’s Privé haute couture show arrived with a satin pouch containing three vials of his new fragrance, Laque — a teaser for a collection that paid homage to Asia as seen through an Art Deco prism.
Having traded the cavernous Palais de Chaillot for more intimate venues, the designer took over a succession of salons in the Hôtel d’Evreux for his leisurely display, which drew A-listers including Uma Thurman, Céline Dion, Juliette Binoche, Dakota Fanning and Amber Heard.
In line with the Jazz Age theme, models wore snug flapper caps dripping with beaded fringe, or miniature conical hats with stiff veils. The show kicked off with a pair of shiny metallic gray trouser suits with graphic Art Deco motifs, establishing the season’s ruler-straight shoulder line.
That power shoulder was a recurring motif, appearing on a zigzag-patterned pink and gray jacket, as well as on evening looks such as a fiery red sequined dress topped with a matching buttonless crocodile coat that had an almost liquid sheen.
Indeed, the collection was awash in scarlet, a color not normally associated with the king of greige, but one that tied in neatly with the lacquer theme, not to mention bringing good luck in Chinese

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Schiaparelli Couture Spring 2019

When Elsa Schiaparelli was a little girl, her uncle Giovanni, a renowned astronomer, compared the beauty marks on her cheek to the stars forming Ursa Major. Years later, she commissioned a brooch in the shape of the constellation, which became a personal talisman.
That anecdote from her autobiography “Shocking Life” was one of the childhood memories that inspired creative director Bertrand Guyon’s spring haute couture collection, which explored the founder’s obsession with astrological signs and flowers through the prism of her lesser-known work in the Fifties.
Frothy tulle confections and colorful botanical prints contrasted with sequin-sprinkled gowns inspired by the sky at night, carrying evocative names such as Luna Orbiter, Zeta Draconis and Via Lactea. The latter, a ruffle dress in inky tulle, was embroidered with a sparkling milky way.
A master of the embellished jacket, Guyon introduced radical new shapes such as hourglass-shaped peplum jackets that came with matching bell-shaped skirts or shorts. He borrowed lush embroideries from antique porcelain motifs, and culled an astrological pattern from a 17th-century star atlas.
Guyon admitted that he wasn’t much of an astronomy buff himself, and doesn’t even read his horoscope. “It’s not something I’m naturally drawn toward, but it’s part of the DNA of the

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Men’s Spring 2019 Trend: Retro Businessman

What’s the difference between a woebegone, Seventies-era businessman and a spring 2019 hipster? Less than you might think. Designers are serving up retro-tinged tailoring and suburban-dad sportswear that’s so uncool, it’s cool.

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There Will Be No Dancing With the Stars In Spring 2019

Dancing With the Stars, Bobby BonesAfter a rather polarizing season, Dancing with the Stars is taking a break.
E! News has confirmed that the reality show won’t be airing in Spring 2019, when it would usually debut…

E! Online (US) – TV News

SPECIAL TIP UPDATE!

There Will Be No Dancing With the Stars In Spring 2019

Dancing With the Stars, Bobby BonesAfter a rather polarizing season, Dancing with the Stars is taking a break.
E! News has confirmed that the reality show won’t be airing in Spring 2019, when it would usually debut…

E! Online (US) – Top Stories

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Neglect Adult Patients RTW Spring 2019

Name: Neglect Adult Patients
Main message: Designer Junnosuke Watanabe has a diverse background, having studied political science and economics at Waseda University and performed as a member of a Japanese music group. For his first runway show, he played on his unusual brand name and turned out a hospital-themed collection, even sending out models in mint green gowns and scrub suits. There were also T-shirts and sweatshirts with slogans such as “Touch me, I’m heavy sick” and “Medical play.” He filled out the offering with a series of shorts and jackets in red plaid, leopard print and ath-leisure fabrics.
The result: Despite some odd English phrases, the clothes were pedestrian and showed Watanabe’s inexperience, although he’ll likely find customers among his fans. But it’s not clear that he needed a runway show to do it.

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Mitsuru Okazaki RTW Spring 2019

Name: Mitsuru Okazaki
Main message: Yohji Yamamoto alum Mitsuru Okazaki’s brand is only in its second season, but it is already establishing itself as one to watch during Tokyo Fashion Week. The designer is adept at creating unexpected shapes out of simple textiles, such as the denim skirts topped with petal-like layers or the white pants covered in pyramid-shaped puckers that he sent down his spring runway. He also did interesting things with concealed zippers, placing them on balloon sleeves and pant legs so that when zipped open they looked like multiple slits, sometimes in contrasting colors. Diagonal stripes and colorblocking gave movement to otherwise simple tapered trousers and button-down shirts.
The result: The collection was both cohesive and inventive, as well as casual and real-world friendly, making it a strong second effort. And unlike many designers who show in Tokyo, Okazaki demonstrated his ability to self-edit.

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Malamute RTW Spring 2019

Name: Malamute
Main message: Former knit designer Mari Odaka drew from her roots while also demonstrating her range with her spring collection, the first one she’s shown on Tokyo’s runways. The knits were many and varied, from oversize, mixed-texture sweaters to open knit dresses and crop tops with openings at the elbows. But she combined these with silky and velour blouses, sheer mesh pants, and loose-fitting denim for a contrast of textures. The lines were clean and the colors classic shades of navy, beige, white and red, while bits of fringe and lace created focal points.
The result: Odaka delivered a strong offering with a clear point of view and unique sensibility, proving she deserves a spot on Tokyo’s regular fashion week calendar.

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Mintdesigns RTW Spring 2019

Name: Mintdesigns
Main message: Nao Yagi and Hokuto Katsui gave their garden party-evoking collection a Space Age edge with tinsel wigs, Mylar visors and headscarves, and simple black cubes on their stark white runway. They showed loose, ankle-length dresses and skirts in sheer mesh or botanical prints, paired with fringed knits, wide herringbone striped tunics and linen suits. A few all-black looks, some with dark leopard-print pants or metallic accents, kept it from feeling too sweet or predictable.
The result: The easy shapes and soft textiles would be right at home at any picnic, but unexpected accents kept it feeling fresh, modern and urban.

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St. John RTW Spring 2019

St. John presented a more streamlined and sleek collection during an intimate cocktail presentation in place of a showroom appointment for spring 2019. The brand felt even more elevated with mostly mannequins dressed in neutrals at the forefront of the floor-to-ceiling walls of the Glass Houses penthouse venue.
“We thought highlighting black, navy and white just sort of synthesized and streamlined it to the silhouette and form — to highlight slacks, jackets, dresses. There’s tons more color as well though,” explained Tom Jarrold, the brand’s senior vice president of marketing, branding and communications.
The silhouettes were light and easy: a long caftan continued from resort was updated in white, but also offered short and in fiery red. Transparencies made for important details in the collection on dresses and blazers. The brand is making due diligence to keep new collections close to its core DNA — continuing long line and tweed jackets, a wide array of “New Standard” basics, and dresses — while maintaining a less embellished, tightly edited and focused approach going forward.

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Hare RTW Spring 2019

Name: Hare
Main message: A stark white runway got pops of bright greens, yellows and blues as Hare’s models walked in sporty mesh dresses, straight-leg pants, ankle-length skirts and bomber jackets. The silhouettes were familiar but the brand, designed by a team, has a large digital following, proving its commercial appeal. A head-to-toe shibori tie-dye look on denim and chambray, and a satin jumpsuit in a marbled paint print stood out, while details such as fanny packs and large cargo pockets hinted at a Nineties theme.
The result: While the pieces themselves were not particularly exciting, the styling and accessories helped to elevate them slightly, and the bright colors contrasting with black and white felt fresh.

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Jenny Fax RTW Spring 2019

Name: Jenny Fax
Main message: “An ordinary girl from a small town is going to buy a flower print dress for her date. That is so romantically sad,” said Shueh Jen-Fang’s show notes. Prone to taking inspiration from childhood themes and experiences, the designer made this collection a grown-up storybook tale. Spanning clown-like jumpsuits with exaggerated shoulders to sweet floral or pastel dresses with huge pockets, it permeated humor. But there were also plenty of less innocent details, like dresses, skirts and long fringed shorts worn with buttons and zippers undone to show the navel, or satin thong underwear attached to the outside of frocks and extending all the way up to the shoulders. Tiny cropped jackets, an oversize, stonewashed denim double-breasted blazer, and mismatched sleeves played with proportion.
The result: As the last show of Tokyo’s spring fashion week, it did not disappoint, cleverly mixing together unique yet wearable pieces with more theatrical, conceptual ones.

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Mistergentleman Men’s Spring 2019

Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii’s shows have come to be known as a highlight of Tokyo Fashion Week, and this season was no different. Since they began staging runway shows, they have honed their style so that each collection is fun and uplifting, and stylish with a hint of humor. The theme for spring was “vibrant,” which was clearly illustrated through their diverse color palette.
The designers layered sheer T-shirts over solid ones, sheer bomber jackets over button-down shirts, and sheer shorts over khaki ones. Bright neon trim appeared on the cuffs of dress shirts and at the back of trenchcoats, and panels of contrasting fabric were added to moto jackets and short-sleeved shirts. A series of color-blocked leggings and body-hugging jumpsuits in mixed prints were worn under more formal pieces such as blazers and toggle coats.
From socks with sporty drawcord tops to bags made by Outdoor Products, Karrimor and Speedo, the accessories rounded out the collection with fun and function.

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Figue RTW Spring 2019

Stephanie von Watzdorf was awash in the afterglow of the Meghan Markle effect when presenting her spring Figue collection. The Duchess of Sussex wore a floral dress from the collection for her first speech on the royal tour in Fiji earlier this week. “She’s in Fiji, which is one of my dream destinations, and she’s talking about women’s empowerment and education, which is so on my radar, aside from animals and outfits,” said von Watzdorf, adding that Markle’s effect on sales is real.
As for the spring collection, von Watzdorf titled it Nomad Love. She culled decorative elements — stripes, beading, florals, embroidery — from nomadic tribes the world over and coalesced them into pajama tops and bottoms, silk and cotton caftans, peasant tops and robes that fit the bill for pretty, bohemian style whether you’re wandering the globe or going about your everyday life and want something that telegraphs “summer.” What felt newest were airy, voluminous cotton dresses in polka dots, a quilted ikat robe and a great pearl and evil eye jewelry collaboration with Beck Jewels.

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Berluti Men’s Spring 2019

While fellow designers Kim Jones at Dior and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton were making splashy runway debuts in June, Kris Van Assche was quietly unveiling his first collection for Berluti to buyers in showroom appointments.
Editors discovered the collection this week, when it was presented in a temporary glass-walled pavilion designed by Jean Prouvé, set up on the Place de la Concorde in Paris to coincide with the FIAC contemporary art fair.
Designed as a prologue to his first runway show, scheduled for January, the capsule line reflected the mix of tailoring and sportswear that has been a trademark of Van Assche’s previous work, both at Dior men’s and for his own label.
Cropped-leg suits and white shirts, some with black leather patches, rubbed shoulders with smart cashmere blousons and hoodies, including one in paper-thin red lamb leather.
Van Assche used the Scritto, an 18th-century manuscript motif that normally appears on Berluti shoes, in a variety of guises: as a graphic black print on a white T-shirt, a multicolored pattern on a black shirt, or tone-on-tone jacquard accents on a cream tuxedo.
The house’s trademark patina appeared as a blue and red colorway deployed across clothing — such as a cashmere and silk crewneck

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Tory Sport RTW Spring 2019

Two-and-a-half years after Tory Burch launched Tory Sport, the brand’s performance results are coming in. “It’s interesting to start to see what the business is coming to,” Burch said last week during a preview of the spring collection. “We’re starting to see what makes sense, less is more, and what is working for us.” The collection is not just cute, colorful and branded, although it is definitively all of those things — it’s also become a viable player in terms of performance wear. Yoga and running, particularly the seamless pieces, are doing well, as is golf.
For spring, Burch amped up the color with the Bauhaus principles of form and function in mind, working in fuchsia, red, green, blue and white in graphic stripes and lots of chevron. The clothes she wore to play sports in high school in the Seventies were on her mind, so chevron track jackets and silky soccer jerseys were updated in lightweight, breathable, moisture-wicking fabrics as opposed to the pure polyester the vintage styles came in. Weatherproof outerwear stood out, as did a few fabulous chunky hand knit cotton sweaters that fell into Tory Sport’s “coming and going” category. There was a new tennis skort and

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Rabd Men’s Spring 2019

Name: Rabd
Main message: According to its profile, this brand aims to make “clothing that adds colors and [an] uplifting feeling for everyday life,” but you would never guess it from its spring collection. Designer Kanya Miki, a former assistant to John Galliano, showed a severe collection in shades of black, white and gray. He paired wide-legged, extralong pants with motorcycle jackets or a variety of T-shirts, some with asymmetric lines. While designed for men, the offering was shown on models of both genders to demonstrate its versatility.
The result: Rabd’s first runway outing showed a cohesive and consistent collection, but the looks were so similar that it often seemed they were being repeated over and over.

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Memuse RTW Spring 2019

Name: Memuse
Main message: Risa Aizawa evoked a child’s dress-up party with her latest show, seating a group of models in nude undergarments, neutral colored heels and blonde bob wigs on the floor in the center of her runway. Around them walked more models, who wore her fairytale-esque designs. With sweet, girly looks such as tulle or lace dresses covered in bows, frills and ruffles shown alongside more casual, real-world pieces including see-through raincoats and an oversize, gathered T-shirt dress printed with a cartoon character with eyes in her hair, it was like a modern-day “Alice in Wonderland.” Aizawa’s pastel palette and opulent textures, which included velour and jacquard, were contrasted by an out-of-place ankle-length, frilled frock in bright magenta, yellow, orange, blue and green.
The result: Considering her background working in a “maid café” and as a Japanese pop star, it’s not surprising that Aizawa’s design sensibility draws heavily from Tokyo subculture. And while the collection is unlikely to garner a widespread following, it’s sure to appeal to her fans and target audience.

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Shohei RTW Spring 2019

Name: Shohei
Main message: Austrian designer Lisa Pek lived in Japan for two years, designing for a Japanese company. Not only did she meet her Japanese husband during this time, but the experience also shaped her design sensibility. She focuses on unique materials, including both sustainable fabrics and innovative performance textiles “in order to create fashion with a dynamic attitude.” In her debut Tokyo show, she used tech fabrics to craft color-blocked parkas, shorts and tube tops in navy, black, beige and orange. While Pek designs for both genders, the men’s offerings mimicked the designs for women, including jackets with zip-off sleeves and pants that unzipped to create shorts. Asymmetrical cutting and folding techniques added an edge to athleisure-style tube tops and dresses with drawstring details, while shirting fabrics were layered with jersey and other textiles to create deconstructed blouses.
The result: Pek’s European interpretation of Japanese style was an interesting addition to Tokyo Fashion Week, and demonstrated that the designer has potential to succeed both at home and abroad.

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Lautashi RTW Spring 2019

Name: Lautashi
Main message: Model Emi Suzuki launched her brand last year, and quickly gained a following on social media. This season was the first time she participated in Tokyo Fashion Week, thanks to support from Amazon through its At Tokyo program. Rather than a traditional runway show, she chose to do a presentation in collaboration with a new media artist, saying that she wanted attendees to be able to see the detail in her clothes more clearly. Inspired by the night sky, she used zodiac, swirly galaxy and aurora borealis prints, as well as solids in both deep tones and soft, shimmering shades. She chose classic shapes like pencil skirts, wide-leg trousers, camisoles and belted jackets.
The result: The collection had obvious commercial appeal, but Suzuki didn’t take any risks with it and there was a sense that it was missing a certain polish.

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Wewill RTW Spring 2019

Name: Wewill
Main message: Hidetaka Fukuzono blurred gender lines with his spring offering, showing blouse-like tunics, satin pants and loose-fitting jackets in soft white, ivory, olive, khaki and gray. His textiles were also soft and consisted largely of natural materials. But linen suits and jackets with oversize pockets lent a throw-back, safari vibe.
The result: The collection didn’t offer anything new and the styling was uninventive, but the clothes were high quality and utilized some beautiful fabrics.

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Hyke RTW Spring 2019

For the past few seasons, Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara have been reinterpreting classic military pieces, and this spring, they drew inspiration from Thirties and Forties coats and pants from American, British and French armed forces. Their show was held in a warehouse near Tokyo Bay, and the simple raw concrete backdrop allowed the clothes to take center stage.
The designers put their own modern take on salvage parkas, chambray shirts, field jackets and pants, flight jackets, motorcycle pants and more. They mixed these with pleated chiffon skirts, sheer mesh dresses, ankle-length knit smocks, denim jackets and cotton dresses. They also showed the third season of their collaboration with The North Face, which included aggressively cropped pullovers, long rain coats, leggings, sweatshirts and T-shirts. While most of the palette centered around neutral shades of khaki, olive, navy, gray, white and black, a few calf-length dresses in red or blue and white stripes provided contrast and added a subtle nod to the nautical.
While the military influences were clear, the collection was still modern and urban, with well-cut silhouettes and quality fabrics, creating the ideal wardrobe for an urban nomad’s commute. And thanks to the pieces by The North Face, it’s also suitable for

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Ksenia Schnaider RTW Spring 2019

Name: Ksenia Schnaider
Main message: Ksenia Schnaider’s Ukrainian resort-themed collection was a breath of fresh air during a largely subdued Tokyo Fashion Week. Its kitschy vibe and beachy influences translated into a fun collection of urban cool-girl clothes. The designer said she was inspired by the makeup and high heel-wearing beachgoers from her home country. She sent out sequin-encrusted T-shirt dresses, Hawaiian sunset-print shirts, and denim with unfinished edges and plenty of cargo pockets. A standout fur-like frayed denim jacket closed the show.
The result: With high energy, a clear theme and a fresh feeling, the collection was one of the most promising of the first half of the week, and showed that the designer doesn’t take herself too seriously.

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Ihnn RTW Spring 2019

Name: Ihnn
Main message: South Korean-born, Tokyo-based designer Chisung Ihn made his runway debut outdoors at his alma mater, Bunka Fashion Graduate University. The rain that came down as a drum corps signaled the start and end of the show and only added to the atmosphere.
While intended for women, the collection was partially modeled by males in bright red lipstick, a shade that was mirrored on trenchcoats, bustier tops and open knits. Other colors were equally bold, and textures ranged from sheer organza to thick pleather. Sporty pieces included a striped knit dress, tech leggings, sports bras and a skirt with multiple drawstrings.
The result: While the silhouettes were not new, the designer put his own spin on them through color and texture. But the styling was uninventive and the collection grew repetitive with too many looks.

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Stair RTW Spring 2019

Name: Stair
Main message: Ryoko Mukasa chose a bright, sun-filled venue for her brand’s inaugural runway show, the softly filtered green of the trees through a wall of glass setting the tone for her collection. She showed loose lavender skirts and pantsuits, bright pink and coral-colored gathered satin jumpsuits, and a layered aquamarine chiffon dress. But her strongest looks had a subtle edginess to them, such as an off-the-shoulder blouse in crisp white shirting, with a thin lace underlay at the neckline, or a checked bias-cut skirt paired with a black-and-white open-knit sweater.
The result: There were some strong pieces, but as a whole the collection felt disjointed, as if the designer tried too hard to incorporate too many contrasting elements.

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Miu Miu RTW Spring 2019

Before the start of Miu Miu’s spring show, the room was dark to enhance viewing of close-up video of  models’ faces, their hair pulled back in headbands, one with a bold swipe of red across her eyelids, another with crimson lips, that was projected on white bubble letters spelling out the brand’s logo. It made you wonder if a beauty launch was afoot. In fact, the collection was about “deconstructing beauty,” explained Miuccia Prada after the show. “It’s talking about what’s interesting now — tailoring, glamour, elegance — reworking it and that’s what I did.”
You could take her at her word. The building blocks of a woman’s wardrobe, with the exception of any trace of hyper casual athleticwear, were on Prada’s table, up for reassessment. The question posed seemed to be: How to make it modern? The answer was to be to embrace the look of DIY, recycling, upcycling even if everything is brand new. It was all far from homespun, yet it took Prada’s signature ugly/pretty (but pretty perfect) trope in a different direction with a rare exploration of the messier side of imperfection. Consider the casting: aside from a few big name models, the runway was full of

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Alexander McQueen RTW Spring 2019

An earthy majesty defines Sarah Burton’s work for Alexander McQueen. It’s raw, intimate and inspired by Britain’s rich pagan past.
For spring, Burton and her design staff visited several hallowed shrines of British paganism, including Silbury Hill and Avebury Stone Circle, sites where humans left indelible marks on nature, and where now, hundreds of years later, the two forces seem indelibly joined. She came away with a new take on her compelling, long-running heroine. “She’s always pagan, I suppose,” Burton said backstage, “rooted to the ground, rooted to the earth.” She is also typically self-sufficient, determined and powerful in her femininity, yet vulnerable, too, a concept that strikes a deep chord in our fractured world. Often, she projects an archetypal warrior goddess whose strength and gentleness manifest in unison, via, on one hand, strict tailoring, corsetry and harnesses, and on the other, gentle dresses with a look of ancient-world dishabille.
For spring, Burton focused on “a woman’s journey, the moments that she experiences in life, so birth, christening, sisterhood, motherhood, friendship. The idea of expressing feelings and being empowered by emotion and vulnerability.” All while being exquisitely turned out.
Burton is the reverse of the ready-to-wear designers who show during couture; she is

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Nicolas Andreas Taralis RTW Spring 2019

To counter what he sees as the darkness of the times, Nicolas Andreas Taralis moved away from his habitual somber register, injecting his spring collection with lightness and color in a sculptural way.
Rectangular strips of technical fabric were sewn together to evoke parachutes in free fall, moving with the body in transparent strips on column and bustier dresses in white and pale yellow, scarlet and fuchsia; billowing as a pale yellow puff-ball skirt with suspenders, paired with a T-shirt that read “Heroes” — in reference to David Bowie.
Tailored pieces like a dark green nylon satin suit and a black cotton jacket were crafted from panels of fabric, leaving gashes in which the wind would rustle.
Laser-cut foliage from a military register created texture on a unisex black coat intended to evoke a shell that protects the body, a motif reprised elsewhere on a white tailored jacket, its lining showing through, and on T-shirts and shift dresses. Elsewhere, Taralis delivered a more overt political message with printed slogans like “surrender” and “disobey” on bright Japanese sports mesh vests and photo prints of protests on his jersey T-shirts, adding a touch of street to what was an interesting, quirky lineup.

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Ximon Lee Spring RTW 2019

The designer in the gender-fluid, handiwork-intensive collection explored the concept of the east interpreted through a western filter. In particular, he looked to the creations of an American carpet manufacturer from the Thirties “who copied Chinese rugs.”
The designer challenged himself in the handiwork-intensive, textured collection, working with a weird palette of hues including deep purple, pistachio and mint that was outside of his comfort zone. The show set — a dingy garage with industrial lights and a wet floor sprinkled with eucalyptus oil — was equally strange.
A glitched jacquard suit in a carpet motif had a “foggy” aspect to it. Elsewhere, an eye-catching mesh dress came needle-punched with yellow silk thread, playing on the idea of forcing organic fibers into synthetic fibers.
The showpiece was an elaborate black and silver sequined robe dress, produced by hand in a workshop in Shanghai, bearing the face of an imaginary avatar.
A matching shirt and pant in a liquid mesh bonded with suiting fabric to create a wet-look effect, which was at once structured and light with an iridescence, offered the most compelling and wearable spin on the appearance-versus-reality theme.

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Dušan RTW Spring 2019

Understated luxury is the code word for Dusan Paunovic’s collection, constructed from high-end fabrics that are the building blocks for his cathedral of minimalism. For spring, the Serbian-born designer worked in a muted color palette of neutrals, working a raw-edged beige and cream herringbone linen, for example, into an elegant yet relaxed spaghetti-strap dress.
Superlight cashmere and silk knits, wide-legged linen culottes and Japanese hand-pressed lamé skirts, all staples in the Dušan vocabulary, were the backbone of the lineup. The outerwear was also strong, as demonstrated with a camel Loro Piana water-repellent cashmere coat with lining and contrasting Mao collar in white neoprene.
His patchworks of supersoft silk scarf prints in a palette of navy, forest green and dusty pink, used on flowing pants and sleeveless tops with a simple tie at the back of the neck, worked a treat.

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Ioannes Spring 2019 RTW

Johannes Boehl Cronau showed his spring collection on the ground floor of Lafayette Anticipations, where models mingled on a floor strewn with pink slips of paper, wearing opened-toed mules. He continued to expose midriffs, using thinly knit bra tops this time, which he paired with cycling shorts in the same material.
The designer has a sharp focus, training his efforts on a select assortment of silhouettes that emphasize his eye for detail; he said he hoped the collection would mark a “really good start for what we’re trying to do.”
Drawing influences from carpentry from his childhood in Germany, he made a luxurious version of a tool belt, one in shiny black leather, another one in gray, which he used to complete an all-gray look. The trousers were both refined and easy, with two short zippers running vertically on the front, matched with a knit bra top.
Black nylon trousers with zips and a few flaps turned out to be an opened-up boiler suit, which was worn with a lightly knit tank top. He used the same knit for an elongated dress that had loops hanging off of the bottom, like mini arm straps.
He slightly enlarged fisherman’s hats, which came in somber hues

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Anaïs Jourden RTW Spring 2019

Anaïs Mak captured the coming-of-age vibe she was after. Tucked into plush sofas ringing the runway, guests waited under the dimmed red lights of the club’s low ceilings, the carpet’s skull-and-flower pattern barely discernible.
But when the lights snapped on and the sentimental saxophone riff streamed out — George Michael’s “Careless Whisper,” what else? — the audience was thrust into her bedroom, or wherever she had a full-length mirror, some privacy and a closet stuffed with possibilities.
“I think the girl is exploring maturing,” said Mak, the Hong Kong-born and -based designer whose label is called Anaïs Jourden. “You see a slight ‘Lolita’ influence in the collection,” she added.
The models wore mostly dresses, occasionally with a trail of ruffles, often in a bias cut and strapless at times — one had lacing between the breasts. Wearing stiletto Barbie heels — patent leather with a puff of fake fur, no straps to secure an ankle — some teetered, while others strutted confidently, hair tied up in a tussled ponytail.
“We used to rely heavily on textures and volume,” said Mak, noting the aim was ease and fluidity this time. Speaking before the show, she pointed to a pencil-shaped dress made from cotton treated for

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Louis Vuitton RTW Spring 2019

Should fashion be political?
It’s a question that has consumed editors in a week dominated by the U.S. Senate Judiciary Committee’s hearing into sexual assault allegations against Supreme Court nominee Brett Kavanaugh. For better or for worse, in the era of #MeToo, a hemline is no longer just a hemline.
While some designers have shrugged off feminist readings of their collections, and others appeared to deliberately court controversy, Nicolas Ghesquière embraced the moment with his lineup of retro-futuristic clothes, shown in a maze of neon-lit tunnels set up in the courtyard of the Louvre Museum after dark.
“This is not a narrative collection. This is about my obsession to empower women,” he said after the show. “There were so many discussions the last months about the place of women, and I thought that this is really an intuition to want to give power when you are a designer.”
He did that by tapping into a few of his other obsessions: sci-fi imagery and exaggerated volumes. Dominican model Ambar Cristal Zarzuela, making her Paris debut, opened the show in an oversized blouson with mille feuille sleeves featuring photo prints of candy-colored artificial landscapes.
The sleeves were the connective tissue between his eclectic band of intergalactic explorers.

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Anton Belinskiy RTW Spring 2019

Ukrainian designer Anton Belinskiy’s first fashion show had religious airs. Incense burned on the steps inside the Palais de Tokyo, while some models sported wimples.
Belinskiy explored the concept of belief, whether religious or just as a way of giving meaning to life. He relied on the imagery of the Orthodox Church, in reference to his mother’s faith and his own trips to the local church in Kiev. Religious nods were given a pop-culture spin: tiny icons were printed on simple cotton T-shirts, while a rainbow-hued circular icon was depicted on a pink beaded crop top.
Models, both male and female, carried big sports bags. “When people retreat into religion, they pack up all their belongings and disappear,” explained the designer, who founded his brand in 2009. Film stills from “Adam and Eve” were printed on leggings, skirts and trousers. Some models wore seashell necklaces, other carried ceramic donation baskets.
The show was fast-paced and youthful, but the looks were a bit all over the place. An orange shiny jumpsuit was followed by a denim leotard worn with colorful leggings, then a Hawaiian shirt, finally a black deconstructed bustier dress. Despite this, the whole offering was energetic and exciting. The finalist for the

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