Neglect Adult Patients RTW Spring 2019

Name: Neglect Adult Patients
Main message: Designer Junnosuke Watanabe has a diverse background, having studied political science and economics at Waseda University and performed as a member of a Japanese music group. For his first runway show, he played on his unusual brand name and turned out a hospital-themed collection, even sending out models in mint green gowns and scrub suits. There were also T-shirts and sweatshirts with slogans such as “Touch me, I’m heavy sick” and “Medical play.” He filled out the offering with a series of shorts and jackets in red plaid, leopard print and ath-leisure fabrics.
The result: Despite some odd English phrases, the clothes were pedestrian and showed Watanabe’s inexperience, although he’ll likely find customers among his fans. But it’s not clear that he needed a runway show to do it.

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Mitsuru Okazaki RTW Spring 2019

Name: Mitsuru Okazaki
Main message: Yohji Yamamoto alum Mitsuru Okazaki’s brand is only in its second season, but it is already establishing itself as one to watch during Tokyo Fashion Week. The designer is adept at creating unexpected shapes out of simple textiles, such as the denim skirts topped with petal-like layers or the white pants covered in pyramid-shaped puckers that he sent down his spring runway. He also did interesting things with concealed zippers, placing them on balloon sleeves and pant legs so that when zipped open they looked like multiple slits, sometimes in contrasting colors. Diagonal stripes and colorblocking gave movement to otherwise simple tapered trousers and button-down shirts.
The result: The collection was both cohesive and inventive, as well as casual and real-world friendly, making it a strong second effort. And unlike many designers who show in Tokyo, Okazaki demonstrated his ability to self-edit.

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Malamute RTW Spring 2019

Name: Malamute
Main message: Former knit designer Mari Odaka drew from her roots while also demonstrating her range with her spring collection, the first one she’s shown on Tokyo’s runways. The knits were many and varied, from oversize, mixed-texture sweaters to open knit dresses and crop tops with openings at the elbows. But she combined these with silky and velour blouses, sheer mesh pants, and loose-fitting denim for a contrast of textures. The lines were clean and the colors classic shades of navy, beige, white and red, while bits of fringe and lace created focal points.
The result: Odaka delivered a strong offering with a clear point of view and unique sensibility, proving she deserves a spot on Tokyo’s regular fashion week calendar.

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Mintdesigns RTW Spring 2019

Name: Mintdesigns
Main message: Nao Yagi and Hokuto Katsui gave their garden party-evoking collection a Space Age edge with tinsel wigs, Mylar visors and headscarves, and simple black cubes on their stark white runway. They showed loose, ankle-length dresses and skirts in sheer mesh or botanical prints, paired with fringed knits, wide herringbone striped tunics and linen suits. A few all-black looks, some with dark leopard-print pants or metallic accents, kept it from feeling too sweet or predictable.
The result: The easy shapes and soft textiles would be right at home at any picnic, but unexpected accents kept it feeling fresh, modern and urban.

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St. John RTW Spring 2019

St. John presented a more streamlined and sleek collection during an intimate cocktail presentation in place of a showroom appointment for spring 2019. The brand felt even more elevated with mostly mannequins dressed in neutrals at the forefront of the floor-to-ceiling walls of the Glass Houses penthouse venue.
“We thought highlighting black, navy and white just sort of synthesized and streamlined it to the silhouette and form — to highlight slacks, jackets, dresses. There’s tons more color as well though,” explained Tom Jarrold, the brand’s senior vice president of marketing, branding and communications.
The silhouettes were light and easy: a long caftan continued from resort was updated in white, but also offered short and in fiery red. Transparencies made for important details in the collection on dresses and blazers. The brand is making due diligence to keep new collections close to its core DNA — continuing long line and tweed jackets, a wide array of “New Standard” basics, and dresses — while maintaining a less embellished, tightly edited and focused approach going forward.

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Hare RTW Spring 2019

Name: Hare
Main message: A stark white runway got pops of bright greens, yellows and blues as Hare’s models walked in sporty mesh dresses, straight-leg pants, ankle-length skirts and bomber jackets. The silhouettes were familiar but the brand, designed by a team, has a large digital following, proving its commercial appeal. A head-to-toe shibori tie-dye look on denim and chambray, and a satin jumpsuit in a marbled paint print stood out, while details such as fanny packs and large cargo pockets hinted at a Nineties theme.
The result: While the pieces themselves were not particularly exciting, the styling and accessories helped to elevate them slightly, and the bright colors contrasting with black and white felt fresh.

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Jenny Fax RTW Spring 2019

Name: Jenny Fax
Main message: “An ordinary girl from a small town is going to buy a flower print dress for her date. That is so romantically sad,” said Shueh Jen-Fang’s show notes. Prone to taking inspiration from childhood themes and experiences, the designer made this collection a grown-up storybook tale. Spanning clown-like jumpsuits with exaggerated shoulders to sweet floral or pastel dresses with huge pockets, it permeated humor. But there were also plenty of less innocent details, like dresses, skirts and long fringed shorts worn with buttons and zippers undone to show the navel, or satin thong underwear attached to the outside of frocks and extending all the way up to the shoulders. Tiny cropped jackets, an oversize, stonewashed denim double-breasted blazer, and mismatched sleeves played with proportion.
The result: As the last show of Tokyo’s spring fashion week, it did not disappoint, cleverly mixing together unique yet wearable pieces with more theatrical, conceptual ones.

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Mistergentleman Men’s Spring 2019

Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii’s shows have come to be known as a highlight of Tokyo Fashion Week, and this season was no different. Since they began staging runway shows, they have honed their style so that each collection is fun and uplifting, and stylish with a hint of humor. The theme for spring was “vibrant,” which was clearly illustrated through their diverse color palette.
The designers layered sheer T-shirts over solid ones, sheer bomber jackets over button-down shirts, and sheer shorts over khaki ones. Bright neon trim appeared on the cuffs of dress shirts and at the back of trenchcoats, and panels of contrasting fabric were added to moto jackets and short-sleeved shirts. A series of color-blocked leggings and body-hugging jumpsuits in mixed prints were worn under more formal pieces such as blazers and toggle coats.
From socks with sporty drawcord tops to bags made by Outdoor Products, Karrimor and Speedo, the accessories rounded out the collection with fun and function.

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Figue RTW Spring 2019

Stephanie von Watzdorf was awash in the afterglow of the Meghan Markle effect when presenting her spring Figue collection. The Duchess of Sussex wore a floral dress from the collection for her first speech on the royal tour in Fiji earlier this week. “She’s in Fiji, which is one of my dream destinations, and she’s talking about women’s empowerment and education, which is so on my radar, aside from animals and outfits,” said von Watzdorf, adding that Markle’s effect on sales is real.
As for the spring collection, von Watzdorf titled it Nomad Love. She culled decorative elements — stripes, beading, florals, embroidery — from nomadic tribes the world over and coalesced them into pajama tops and bottoms, silk and cotton caftans, peasant tops and robes that fit the bill for pretty, bohemian style whether you’re wandering the globe or going about your everyday life and want something that telegraphs “summer.” What felt newest were airy, voluminous cotton dresses in polka dots, a quilted ikat robe and a great pearl and evil eye jewelry collaboration with Beck Jewels.

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Berluti Men’s Spring 2019

While fellow designers Kim Jones at Dior and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton were making splashy runway debuts in June, Kris Van Assche was quietly unveiling his first collection for Berluti to buyers in showroom appointments.
Editors discovered the collection this week, when it was presented in a temporary glass-walled pavilion designed by Jean Prouvé, set up on the Place de la Concorde in Paris to coincide with the FIAC contemporary art fair.
Designed as a prologue to his first runway show, scheduled for January, the capsule line reflected the mix of tailoring and sportswear that has been a trademark of Van Assche’s previous work, both at Dior men’s and for his own label.
Cropped-leg suits and white shirts, some with black leather patches, rubbed shoulders with smart cashmere blousons and hoodies, including one in paper-thin red lamb leather.
Van Assche used the Scritto, an 18th-century manuscript motif that normally appears on Berluti shoes, in a variety of guises: as a graphic black print on a white T-shirt, a multicolored pattern on a black shirt, or tone-on-tone jacquard accents on a cream tuxedo.
The house’s trademark patina appeared as a blue and red colorway deployed across clothing — such as a cashmere and silk crewneck

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Tory Sport RTW Spring 2019

Two-and-a-half years after Tory Burch launched Tory Sport, the brand’s performance results are coming in. “It’s interesting to start to see what the business is coming to,” Burch said last week during a preview of the spring collection. “We’re starting to see what makes sense, less is more, and what is working for us.” The collection is not just cute, colorful and branded, although it is definitively all of those things — it’s also become a viable player in terms of performance wear. Yoga and running, particularly the seamless pieces, are doing well, as is golf.
For spring, Burch amped up the color with the Bauhaus principles of form and function in mind, working in fuchsia, red, green, blue and white in graphic stripes and lots of chevron. The clothes she wore to play sports in high school in the Seventies were on her mind, so chevron track jackets and silky soccer jerseys were updated in lightweight, breathable, moisture-wicking fabrics as opposed to the pure polyester the vintage styles came in. Weatherproof outerwear stood out, as did a few fabulous chunky hand knit cotton sweaters that fell into Tory Sport’s “coming and going” category. There was a new tennis skort and

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Rabd Men’s Spring 2019

Name: Rabd
Main message: According to its profile, this brand aims to make “clothing that adds colors and [an] uplifting feeling for everyday life,” but you would never guess it from its spring collection. Designer Kanya Miki, a former assistant to John Galliano, showed a severe collection in shades of black, white and gray. He paired wide-legged, extralong pants with motorcycle jackets or a variety of T-shirts, some with asymmetric lines. While designed for men, the offering was shown on models of both genders to demonstrate its versatility.
The result: Rabd’s first runway outing showed a cohesive and consistent collection, but the looks were so similar that it often seemed they were being repeated over and over.

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Memuse RTW Spring 2019

Name: Memuse
Main message: Risa Aizawa evoked a child’s dress-up party with her latest show, seating a group of models in nude undergarments, neutral colored heels and blonde bob wigs on the floor in the center of her runway. Around them walked more models, who wore her fairytale-esque designs. With sweet, girly looks such as tulle or lace dresses covered in bows, frills and ruffles shown alongside more casual, real-world pieces including see-through raincoats and an oversize, gathered T-shirt dress printed with a cartoon character with eyes in her hair, it was like a modern-day “Alice in Wonderland.” Aizawa’s pastel palette and opulent textures, which included velour and jacquard, were contrasted by an out-of-place ankle-length, frilled frock in bright magenta, yellow, orange, blue and green.
The result: Considering her background working in a “maid café” and as a Japanese pop star, it’s not surprising that Aizawa’s design sensibility draws heavily from Tokyo subculture. And while the collection is unlikely to garner a widespread following, it’s sure to appeal to her fans and target audience.

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Shohei RTW Spring 2019

Name: Shohei
Main message: Austrian designer Lisa Pek lived in Japan for two years, designing for a Japanese company. Not only did she meet her Japanese husband during this time, but the experience also shaped her design sensibility. She focuses on unique materials, including both sustainable fabrics and innovative performance textiles “in order to create fashion with a dynamic attitude.” In her debut Tokyo show, she used tech fabrics to craft color-blocked parkas, shorts and tube tops in navy, black, beige and orange. While Pek designs for both genders, the men’s offerings mimicked the designs for women, including jackets with zip-off sleeves and pants that unzipped to create shorts. Asymmetrical cutting and folding techniques added an edge to athleisure-style tube tops and dresses with drawstring details, while shirting fabrics were layered with jersey and other textiles to create deconstructed blouses.
The result: Pek’s European interpretation of Japanese style was an interesting addition to Tokyo Fashion Week, and demonstrated that the designer has potential to succeed both at home and abroad.

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Lautashi RTW Spring 2019

Name: Lautashi
Main message: Model Emi Suzuki launched her brand last year, and quickly gained a following on social media. This season was the first time she participated in Tokyo Fashion Week, thanks to support from Amazon through its At Tokyo program. Rather than a traditional runway show, she chose to do a presentation in collaboration with a new media artist, saying that she wanted attendees to be able to see the detail in her clothes more clearly. Inspired by the night sky, she used zodiac, swirly galaxy and aurora borealis prints, as well as solids in both deep tones and soft, shimmering shades. She chose classic shapes like pencil skirts, wide-leg trousers, camisoles and belted jackets.
The result: The collection had obvious commercial appeal, but Suzuki didn’t take any risks with it and there was a sense that it was missing a certain polish.

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Wewill RTW Spring 2019

Name: Wewill
Main message: Hidetaka Fukuzono blurred gender lines with his spring offering, showing blouse-like tunics, satin pants and loose-fitting jackets in soft white, ivory, olive, khaki and gray. His textiles were also soft and consisted largely of natural materials. But linen suits and jackets with oversize pockets lent a throw-back, safari vibe.
The result: The collection didn’t offer anything new and the styling was uninventive, but the clothes were high quality and utilized some beautiful fabrics.

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Hyke RTW Spring 2019

For the past few seasons, Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara have been reinterpreting classic military pieces, and this spring, they drew inspiration from Thirties and Forties coats and pants from American, British and French armed forces. Their show was held in a warehouse near Tokyo Bay, and the simple raw concrete backdrop allowed the clothes to take center stage.
The designers put their own modern take on salvage parkas, chambray shirts, field jackets and pants, flight jackets, motorcycle pants and more. They mixed these with pleated chiffon skirts, sheer mesh dresses, ankle-length knit smocks, denim jackets and cotton dresses. They also showed the third season of their collaboration with The North Face, which included aggressively cropped pullovers, long rain coats, leggings, sweatshirts and T-shirts. While most of the palette centered around neutral shades of khaki, olive, navy, gray, white and black, a few calf-length dresses in red or blue and white stripes provided contrast and added a subtle nod to the nautical.
While the military influences were clear, the collection was still modern and urban, with well-cut silhouettes and quality fabrics, creating the ideal wardrobe for an urban nomad’s commute. And thanks to the pieces by The North Face, it’s also suitable for

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Ksenia Schnaider RTW Spring 2019

Name: Ksenia Schnaider
Main message: Ksenia Schnaider’s Ukrainian resort-themed collection was a breath of fresh air during a largely subdued Tokyo Fashion Week. Its kitschy vibe and beachy influences translated into a fun collection of urban cool-girl clothes. The designer said she was inspired by the makeup and high heel-wearing beachgoers from her home country. She sent out sequin-encrusted T-shirt dresses, Hawaiian sunset-print shirts, and denim with unfinished edges and plenty of cargo pockets. A standout fur-like frayed denim jacket closed the show.
The result: With high energy, a clear theme and a fresh feeling, the collection was one of the most promising of the first half of the week, and showed that the designer doesn’t take herself too seriously.

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Ihnn RTW Spring 2019

Name: Ihnn
Main message: South Korean-born, Tokyo-based designer Chisung Ihn made his runway debut outdoors at his alma mater, Bunka Fashion Graduate University. The rain that came down as a drum corps signaled the start and end of the show and only added to the atmosphere.
While intended for women, the collection was partially modeled by males in bright red lipstick, a shade that was mirrored on trenchcoats, bustier tops and open knits. Other colors were equally bold, and textures ranged from sheer organza to thick pleather. Sporty pieces included a striped knit dress, tech leggings, sports bras and a skirt with multiple drawstrings.
The result: While the silhouettes were not new, the designer put his own spin on them through color and texture. But the styling was uninventive and the collection grew repetitive with too many looks.

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Stair RTW Spring 2019

Name: Stair
Main message: Ryoko Mukasa chose a bright, sun-filled venue for her brand’s inaugural runway show, the softly filtered green of the trees through a wall of glass setting the tone for her collection. She showed loose lavender skirts and pantsuits, bright pink and coral-colored gathered satin jumpsuits, and a layered aquamarine chiffon dress. But her strongest looks had a subtle edginess to them, such as an off-the-shoulder blouse in crisp white shirting, with a thin lace underlay at the neckline, or a checked bias-cut skirt paired with a black-and-white open-knit sweater.
The result: There were some strong pieces, but as a whole the collection felt disjointed, as if the designer tried too hard to incorporate too many contrasting elements.

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Miu Miu RTW Spring 2019

Before the start of Miu Miu’s spring show, the room was dark to enhance viewing of close-up video of  models’ faces, their hair pulled back in headbands, one with a bold swipe of red across her eyelids, another with crimson lips, that was projected on white bubble letters spelling out the brand’s logo. It made you wonder if a beauty launch was afoot. In fact, the collection was about “deconstructing beauty,” explained Miuccia Prada after the show. “It’s talking about what’s interesting now — tailoring, glamour, elegance — reworking it and that’s what I did.”
You could take her at her word. The building blocks of a woman’s wardrobe, with the exception of any trace of hyper casual athleticwear, were on Prada’s table, up for reassessment. The question posed seemed to be: How to make it modern? The answer was to be to embrace the look of DIY, recycling, upcycling even if everything is brand new. It was all far from homespun, yet it took Prada’s signature ugly/pretty (but pretty perfect) trope in a different direction with a rare exploration of the messier side of imperfection. Consider the casting: aside from a few big name models, the runway was full of

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Alexander McQueen RTW Spring 2019

An earthy majesty defines Sarah Burton’s work for Alexander McQueen. It’s raw, intimate and inspired by Britain’s rich pagan past.
For spring, Burton and her design staff visited several hallowed shrines of British paganism, including Silbury Hill and Avebury Stone Circle, sites where humans left indelible marks on nature, and where now, hundreds of years later, the two forces seem indelibly joined. She came away with a new take on her compelling, long-running heroine. “She’s always pagan, I suppose,” Burton said backstage, “rooted to the ground, rooted to the earth.” She is also typically self-sufficient, determined and powerful in her femininity, yet vulnerable, too, a concept that strikes a deep chord in our fractured world. Often, she projects an archetypal warrior goddess whose strength and gentleness manifest in unison, via, on one hand, strict tailoring, corsetry and harnesses, and on the other, gentle dresses with a look of ancient-world dishabille.
For spring, Burton focused on “a woman’s journey, the moments that she experiences in life, so birth, christening, sisterhood, motherhood, friendship. The idea of expressing feelings and being empowered by emotion and vulnerability.” All while being exquisitely turned out.
Burton is the reverse of the ready-to-wear designers who show during couture; she is

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Nicolas Andreas Taralis RTW Spring 2019

To counter what he sees as the darkness of the times, Nicolas Andreas Taralis moved away from his habitual somber register, injecting his spring collection with lightness and color in a sculptural way.
Rectangular strips of technical fabric were sewn together to evoke parachutes in free fall, moving with the body in transparent strips on column and bustier dresses in white and pale yellow, scarlet and fuchsia; billowing as a pale yellow puff-ball skirt with suspenders, paired with a T-shirt that read “Heroes” — in reference to David Bowie.
Tailored pieces like a dark green nylon satin suit and a black cotton jacket were crafted from panels of fabric, leaving gashes in which the wind would rustle.
Laser-cut foliage from a military register created texture on a unisex black coat intended to evoke a shell that protects the body, a motif reprised elsewhere on a white tailored jacket, its lining showing through, and on T-shirts and shift dresses. Elsewhere, Taralis delivered a more overt political message with printed slogans like “surrender” and “disobey” on bright Japanese sports mesh vests and photo prints of protests on his jersey T-shirts, adding a touch of street to what was an interesting, quirky lineup.

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Ximon Lee Spring RTW 2019

The designer in the gender-fluid, handiwork-intensive collection explored the concept of the east interpreted through a western filter. In particular, he looked to the creations of an American carpet manufacturer from the Thirties “who copied Chinese rugs.”
The designer challenged himself in the handiwork-intensive, textured collection, working with a weird palette of hues including deep purple, pistachio and mint that was outside of his comfort zone. The show set — a dingy garage with industrial lights and a wet floor sprinkled with eucalyptus oil — was equally strange.
A glitched jacquard suit in a carpet motif had a “foggy” aspect to it. Elsewhere, an eye-catching mesh dress came needle-punched with yellow silk thread, playing on the idea of forcing organic fibers into synthetic fibers.
The showpiece was an elaborate black and silver sequined robe dress, produced by hand in a workshop in Shanghai, bearing the face of an imaginary avatar.
A matching shirt and pant in a liquid mesh bonded with suiting fabric to create a wet-look effect, which was at once structured and light with an iridescence, offered the most compelling and wearable spin on the appearance-versus-reality theme.

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Dušan RTW Spring 2019

Understated luxury is the code word for Dusan Paunovic’s collection, constructed from high-end fabrics that are the building blocks for his cathedral of minimalism. For spring, the Serbian-born designer worked in a muted color palette of neutrals, working a raw-edged beige and cream herringbone linen, for example, into an elegant yet relaxed spaghetti-strap dress.
Superlight cashmere and silk knits, wide-legged linen culottes and Japanese hand-pressed lamé skirts, all staples in the Dušan vocabulary, were the backbone of the lineup. The outerwear was also strong, as demonstrated with a camel Loro Piana water-repellent cashmere coat with lining and contrasting Mao collar in white neoprene.
His patchworks of supersoft silk scarf prints in a palette of navy, forest green and dusty pink, used on flowing pants and sleeveless tops with a simple tie at the back of the neck, worked a treat.

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Ioannes Spring 2019 RTW

Johannes Boehl Cronau showed his spring collection on the ground floor of Lafayette Anticipations, where models mingled on a floor strewn with pink slips of paper, wearing opened-toed mules. He continued to expose midriffs, using thinly knit bra tops this time, which he paired with cycling shorts in the same material.
The designer has a sharp focus, training his efforts on a select assortment of silhouettes that emphasize his eye for detail; he said he hoped the collection would mark a “really good start for what we’re trying to do.”
Drawing influences from carpentry from his childhood in Germany, he made a luxurious version of a tool belt, one in shiny black leather, another one in gray, which he used to complete an all-gray look. The trousers were both refined and easy, with two short zippers running vertically on the front, matched with a knit bra top.
Black nylon trousers with zips and a few flaps turned out to be an opened-up boiler suit, which was worn with a lightly knit tank top. He used the same knit for an elongated dress that had loops hanging off of the bottom, like mini arm straps.
He slightly enlarged fisherman’s hats, which came in somber hues

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Anaïs Jourden RTW Spring 2019

Anaïs Mak captured the coming-of-age vibe she was after. Tucked into plush sofas ringing the runway, guests waited under the dimmed red lights of the club’s low ceilings, the carpet’s skull-and-flower pattern barely discernible.
But when the lights snapped on and the sentimental saxophone riff streamed out — George Michael’s “Careless Whisper,” what else? — the audience was thrust into her bedroom, or wherever she had a full-length mirror, some privacy and a closet stuffed with possibilities.
“I think the girl is exploring maturing,” said Mak, the Hong Kong-born and -based designer whose label is called Anaïs Jourden. “You see a slight ‘Lolita’ influence in the collection,” she added.
The models wore mostly dresses, occasionally with a trail of ruffles, often in a bias cut and strapless at times — one had lacing between the breasts. Wearing stiletto Barbie heels — patent leather with a puff of fake fur, no straps to secure an ankle — some teetered, while others strutted confidently, hair tied up in a tussled ponytail.
“We used to rely heavily on textures and volume,” said Mak, noting the aim was ease and fluidity this time. Speaking before the show, she pointed to a pencil-shaped dress made from cotton treated for

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Louis Vuitton RTW Spring 2019

Should fashion be political?
It’s a question that has consumed editors in a week dominated by the U.S. Senate Judiciary Committee’s hearing into sexual assault allegations against Supreme Court nominee Brett Kavanaugh. For better or for worse, in the era of #MeToo, a hemline is no longer just a hemline.
While some designers have shrugged off feminist readings of their collections, and others appeared to deliberately court controversy, Nicolas Ghesquière embraced the moment with his lineup of retro-futuristic clothes, shown in a maze of neon-lit tunnels set up in the courtyard of the Louvre Museum after dark.
“This is not a narrative collection. This is about my obsession to empower women,” he said after the show. “There were so many discussions the last months about the place of women, and I thought that this is really an intuition to want to give power when you are a designer.”
He did that by tapping into a few of his other obsessions: sci-fi imagery and exaggerated volumes. Dominican model Ambar Cristal Zarzuela, making her Paris debut, opened the show in an oversized blouson with mille feuille sleeves featuring photo prints of candy-colored artificial landscapes.
The sleeves were the connective tissue between his eclectic band of intergalactic explorers.

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Anton Belinskiy RTW Spring 2019

Ukrainian designer Anton Belinskiy’s first fashion show had religious airs. Incense burned on the steps inside the Palais de Tokyo, while some models sported wimples.
Belinskiy explored the concept of belief, whether religious or just as a way of giving meaning to life. He relied on the imagery of the Orthodox Church, in reference to his mother’s faith and his own trips to the local church in Kiev. Religious nods were given a pop-culture spin: tiny icons were printed on simple cotton T-shirts, while a rainbow-hued circular icon was depicted on a pink beaded crop top.
Models, both male and female, carried big sports bags. “When people retreat into religion, they pack up all their belongings and disappear,” explained the designer, who founded his brand in 2009. Film stills from “Adam and Eve” were printed on leggings, skirts and trousers. Some models wore seashell necklaces, other carried ceramic donation baskets.
The show was fast-paced and youthful, but the looks were a bit all over the place. An orange shiny jumpsuit was followed by a denim leotard worn with colorful leggings, then a Hawaiian shirt, finally a black deconstructed bustier dress. Despite this, the whole offering was energetic and exciting. The finalist for the

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Pihakapi RTW Spring 2019

Canadian designer Vejas Kruszewski, who won the LVMH Prix Spécial prize in 2016, chose to put his namesake brand on hold to focus on a new project. Now in its second season, Pihakapi, a brand developed in partnership with Italian leather manufacturer Pellemoda, blends high-quality leather with the 21-year-old-designer’s radical vision.
“Because the brand is leather-focused, I like to build the collection around the outerwear,” said Kruszewski at the presentation of his spring collection (the first offering was shown during men’s fashion week, Pihakapi being a unisex brand.)
A black leather trenchcoat featured details from this season’s key inspirations: mini leather horns recalling the anatomy of the stag beetle on the sleeves and a flame shaped cowboy collar. The same details were reworked on denim and jersey, as well as on a side-slit black slipdress, a welcome update to the wardrobe staple.
“I was really interested in reworking Western wear,” said the designer, gesturing to a white linen skirt with a black leather holster detail. He also created a pair of “refined chaps,” playing on the dichotomy between leather and fabric. The chocolate-colored leather added texture and serious flair to a pair of well-cut black trousers. Throwing in a couple of Grecian draped

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Inès de la Fressange RTW Spring 2019

The collection, presented in a salon at the Ritz Paris, was strangely wrinkled. Not to worry — it was all part of Inès de la Fressange’s vision of Parisian chic. “People are scared of linen and see it as a difficult fabric,” said the designer. “But I wanted to show that things needn’t be perfectly ironed. It gives the feeling that you’re still on holiday.”
Nevertheless the effect was scruffy, and diverted the attention from the stronger points of the collection. There was a pair of “new denim” straight leg trousers in dark blue linen, created in reaction to the Parisian heat wave; a cowboy style red shirt — “because you can look Parisian wearing a shirt from Texas” — and an elegant two-piece beige checked suit, that de la Fressange herself was wearing.
Masculine-inspired tailoring was as efficient as always, but the designer seemed tired of churning out the same old “Parisienne” ideal. “People always think that chic has to be conventional, when there isn’t necessarily a link between the two things,” she said. “I’m bored with conventionalism.”
In reaction to that, the collection went full Seventies, with colorful printed silk shirts and flared trousers. The whole offering seemed to miss the

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Kolor RTW Spring 2019

A campaign video filmed in Hollywood and a tacky karaoke bar on the outskirts of Tokyo served as the perfect backdrop for this fun, crafty collection, with the models sped up and slowed down.
The signature inventiveness of Junichi Abe, an experienced patternmaker, was in fine form with offbeat touches like an accumulation of fabric textures on a skirt, the haphazard embroidery on lace collars of sweaters, and lines of tape used to join layers to garments — including a red tulle layer on a black T-shirt — or rework volumes, giving a DIY spin.
A series of triple-layered hi-tech anoraks mixing colors and materials to create depth were terrific. More cute in mood were the colored marled knits with contrast lace accents.
The designer also revisited traditional checks in polyester on neo-geek shirts, with oversized shapes used throughout the collection.

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A.P.C. RTW Spring 2019

Jean and Judith Touitou took another step this season and moved outside the label’s intimate Rue Madame headquarters to show their coed lineup. They headed to a cavernous garage, emptied of cars and outfitted with roving spotlights that announced the start of the show.
The first look set the upbeat, rockabilly tone. Down the concrete car ramp came a sleek, jeans pants-and-shirt ensemble in dark blue with white stitching, a charming Elvis coiffe and pointy white boots, keys jangling from the belt. The bright blue bandana tightly wrapped around the model’s neck allowed a peek of the bright yellow T-shirt underneath.
It’s increasingly a question of survival-of-the-fittest in apparel these days and, not one to be left behind, the label is hankering after growth.
With their spring collection, the couple nudged their specific breed of easy and wearable elegance into younger territory, with their offer of jeans, colorful sweaters, smart outerwear and belt bags stamped with an A, a P or a C.
Dresses were cut sensibly, continuing in the same register as last season — non fussy, elegant and #metoo age-appropriate. These included a checked trenchcoat dress and several prairie dresses. The label’s emphasis on outerwear was expanded to include brighter colors, and

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John Galliano RTW Spring 2019

Add John Galliano to the list of brands going coed this season. The founder of the brand, who now designs for Maison Margiela, pushed the limits of the concept for spring at Margiela with a deep dive into gender fluidity. But Bill Gaytten, in charge of the John Galliano label since the exit of Galliano himself, took a more classical route.
Gaytten is fond of a theme, and this time it was “Picnic at Hanging Rock.” Though the show notes underlined he was referring to the original novel by Joan Lindsay, rather than the film adaptation by Peter Weir or the recent Amazon miniseries, the distinction was moot. The title has become synonymous with virginal Victorian dresses, straw boater hats and lace-up ankle boots, which formed the basis of the collection, though Gaytten brought a dose of punk attitude into the mix.
A sheer blue gown trimmed with white lace was paired with men’s Y-fronts featuring mesh side panels, while a dotted tulle pinafore topped a pair of briefs and a leg-of-mutton-sleeve shirt in the label’s signature Galliano Gazette print.
Tailoring crossed gender lines, with both sexes sporting variations on school uniform blazers and oversized workwear pants held up with broad suspenders. Dirt-trodden

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Azzedine Alaïa RTW Spring 2019

Since Azzedine Alaïa passed away unexpectedly last year, his design team has focused on remaining as faithful as possible to the couturier, who famously ignored show seasons and staged catwalk displays when he felt like it.
Some of his couture creations, originally shown between 2010 and 2015, are available by special order directly in the brand’s stores.
Since last season, the label also offers faithful reproductions of vintage designs under the Editions ready-to-wear label. For spring, they include an hourglass denim blazer from 1990, and a cropped white cotton poplin shirt from 1985.
The main collection reprised some of them — the white shirt, for example, came in a slightly longer version — and riffed on house codes such as cotton eyelet sundresses, raffia-fringed knits and ultra-fine ankle-length knit dresses. The timeless approach makes sense — at $ 4,000 apiece, the knit gowns are naturally investment pieces.
A capsule collection of dresses, T-shirts, bags, scarves and shoes featured a heart and ribbon motif lifted from Alaïa’s spring 1992 collection. Inscribed with the phrase “Mon Coeur est à Papa,” it refers to the nickname that models including Naomi Campbell used for Alaïa, whom they saw as a father figure.

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Andrew Gn RTW Spring 2019

Andrew Gn is something of a magpie when it comes to collecting art and antiques, and his collection inspirations often reflect that. For spring, he namechecked Sixties model Veruschka, the Bloomsbury Group and Russian artist Kazimir Malevich. What do they have in common, one might ask?
For one, a bold approach to pattern and ornamentation, which were the foundations of this lineup. The opening look, a fringed poncho dress with a graphic black-and-white motif, was a continuation of his resort line. Gn is on something of a mission to bring back monochrome clothes in an Internet age obsessed with color.
He showed how that minimal palette could be made compelling for online shoppers by using white as a bold accent, such as a bib studded with metal eyelets on a bell-sleeved black cocktail dress, or as a decorative element, in the shape of folkloric guipure lace patterns on a fringed zippered coat dress.
At the same time, he didn’t shy away from bold color statements, via retro-tinged brocade — as seen on a bubblegum-pink coat with oversize crystal buttons — or the vibrant jewel-hued gowns that capped the display, including a rippling peridot-colored tunic worn with electric blue python boots.
Seasonal trends may come

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Issey Miyake RTW Spring 2019

“Hands have been weaving, sewing and giving new shape to cloth. Yet, what if we could play with the shape more freely as if kneading dough or molding clay?” the show notes at Issey Miyake asked.
Never one to shy away from new textile techniques, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae answered the question by creating looks with a new material, dubbed Dough Dough, whose shape can be modulated easily — with a twist or a crumple. One dress or hat may be transformed in a myriad of ways, as the models on the runway displayed with glee.
Hands also create art, like Issey Miyake’s design team did, painting with traditional Japanese brooms. The resulting patterns were morphed into prints, with some ink-jetted and others woven in jacquards used to construct the clothes. One simple, short-sleeved dress had smatterings of purple, pink, blue and green, reminiscent of an Impressionist painting. Wide-legged trousers were splashed with colorful, vertical lines and dabs, and a skirt came decorated with a patchworklike effect.
This wearable collection had a light, joyful spirit, heightened by whimsical hats made from brooms or the new fabric.

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Uma Wang RTW Spring 2019

Uma Wang blew the dust off a bygone era and out sprang the vibrant hues. “It’s the first time I tried color,” she said, noting that while she loves black, she was after a bit of cheer this season.
Silhouettes offered another surprise, as she tucked simpler forms of fluidity into her habitually more masculine lineup. Those pieces were still there: loosened suit jackets and peasant-blouse-style capes, lots of layering and straps, carefully knotted fabric belts and a few paint splatters and stains.
The audience was eased into the patterns gradually, starting with an earthy toned rose print on a flowing dress. But then the rose turned bright orange, set against a copper background. The first dress in this material was sleeveless, gathered at the top, and flowing to the ground. The same cut was offered in stripes that touched the model’s feet. Shoes carried the same pattern.
Citing influences from Africa — the stripes were from Morocco — and France, England, India, China and Italy, the designer worked a mix. “I don’t want to stick with one culture,” she said, although, being Chinese meant she focused on her own at times.
The results were intriguing, and this season’s lineup felt lighter and more

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Rochas RTW Spring 2019

It’s been a busy season for Alessandro Dell’Acqua: In addition to presenting his collection for No. 21 in Milan, he unveiled a collaboration with Tod’s during Paris Fashion Week. “I’m a little tired,” he conceded backstage before his show for Rochas, held in the sunlit foyer of the Théâtre National de Chaillot opposite the Eiffel Tower.
To say that he kept it simple this season would be to do him a disservice. There was nothing simple about the couture-quality fabrics he deployed, which ranged from rippling silk duchesse to lustrous velvet, painstakingly stitched with thousands of ostrich feathers.
Dell’Acqua got them from French suppliers who worked for big Paris houses like Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent in the Seventies. “For the warped leopard print, we did some tests and we managed to make it with taffeta, using looms that had been left a little idle,” he explained.
He let the fabrics do the talking. Rather than emulate those legendary designers with retro couture silhouettes, dell’Acqua went for loose, boxy cuts, whether on a crinkled, taffeta buttonless coat in a mouthwatering shade of peach, or on a double-breasted pant suit in his signature powder pink.
The designer added a dash of drama with chutes of

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Koché RTW Spring 2019

At a time when the United Nations is meeting in New York, discord between nations has rarely appeared so high. Christelle Kocher has other ideas.
Her spring collection was an ode to unity, under the guise of a celebration of women worldwide. That could be a soignée Parisienne, strutting down Avenue Montaigne in a fuchsia blazer, or a young girl in Indonesia going out with friends in a sequined top and matching headscarf, paired with pleated track pants.
“It’s a homage to diversity, a rallying call in which fashion can be a good vector of unification,” Kocher said backstage after the show, held at the French Communist Party headquarters in Paris, a saucer-shaped building designed by Oscar Niemeyer in the Sixties.
Kocher has always connected with a more nuanced vision of Paris than most people who live here experience — the result of shuttling between her job as artistic director of Maison Lemarié, part of Chanel’s stable of specialty ateliers, and her own studio in the multiethnic neighborhood of Belleville in the northeast of Paris.
This season, she broadened that vision to places she has visited, and those she dreams of discovering. A black bodysuit was embroidered with silver sequins in geometric motifs inspired

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Emily Ratajkowski and Haim Attend Jacquemus Spring 2019 Show

Despite the show’s theme being “La Riviera,” the weather wasn’t quite Côte d’Azur at the Italian Embassy in the 7th arrondissement, where the Jacquemus spring 2019 show was soon to take place.
“I’m freezing,” said Inès de la Fressange, hugging her black corduroy jacket around her shoulders as she entered the courtyard.
She hopped over to her friend and fellow Parisienne Caroline de Maigret, marveling at her choice of a plunging black silk jumpsuit in this chilly weather. Both women have become ambassadors of Parisian style, having each written a book about the art of the true Parisienne.
De Maigret, who featured in Simon Porte Jacquemus’ second collection six years ago, said it was the designer’s communicative energy that led her to collaborate with the brand. “He had really great ideas. I was hooked from the very beginning,” she said. “Years later, he still has the same incredible energy.”
Out in the back garden, Emily Ratajkowski was sipping a glass of Champagne and also praising the 28-year-old designer’s sunny nature. “I met Simon a year ago at his last spring collection, and I now have a friendship with him. Each of his shows celebrate women, and he has a really European, sexy approach that I

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Alexis Mabille RTW Spring 2019

Alexis Mabille ventured into new territory this season — tiptoed, rather — offering a few pieces in black.
“I usually work with midnight blue, but this time I felt like adding black — but always with bold colors,” he was quick to note. The black clothing served as an accent to the collection, he suggested, pointing to a few items tucked in front of a ground-sweeping dress in bright yellow.
One of the rare black pieces was an off-the-shoulder shirtdress, cinched at the waist, in an airy satin organza, its puffed out sleeves an elegant nod to his couture roots.
It is becoming a tradition for Mabille to present his ready-to-wear collection in an intimate, by-appointment setting — part of his project of refocusing the collections around high-end daywear while pre-collections move further into dressier, evening territory.
Ever playful, Mabille tooled around with materials, making two vastly different dresses using the same pattern. Here was a light, airy day dress in striped blue cotton poplin; suddenly, in a silky satin in midnight blue with back lace trim, it took on a sultry tone for evening. There were quite a few of these silky, lacy numbers, peeking out from the more regal, sculptured pieces.
The designer

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Piazza Sempione RTW Spring 2019

Designers Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi upped their game for spring, sending out a crisp, mostly cotton collection that was packed with simple, tailored shapes bound to flatter a variety of figures. They dipped skirts and tops in tie-dye, covered a trouser suit in a chalk print and jazzed up white poplin blouses with feather-light, laser-cut panels. There were shirtdresses for day, and a black viscose, linen and lace dress for evening. Among the most chic pieces was a mustard, three-button cotton topcoat and a white caban in washed cotton.
In a bid to honor the past, Piazza Sempione also hired a group of female photographers to snap pieces from the spring collection any way they wanted. The only condition was that they shoot in Milan’s Piazza Sempione, where the business began in the early Nineties. The brand is also putting a greater focus on its digital communications and is rapidly building its business in the U.S., its largest market, which generates 50 percent of sales. The brand is set to open more doors soon at Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus.

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Herno RTW Spring 2019

Color is the news at Herno, said Claudio Marenzi, chief executive officer of the Italian outerwear company. A range of reds, from crimson to burgundy; plus fuchsia, periwinkle and kiwi green added a vibrant edge to big parkas and capes.
As usual, Herno invested in research and materials, with a new waterproof parka made in cotton with a polyurethane coating. Inside, rainbow-striped, thermo-taped seams completed the look. A drawstring with gold metal details added a feminine touch to the functional garment. An oversize bomber was updated in a new nylon sailcloth that reversed to a taffeta voile. A number of light down vests presented an intriguing watercolor pattern of people silhouetted on a white background.
Marenzi was also upbeat about the performance of the new Herno flagship opened in mid-August and officially unveiled with an event during Milan Fashion Week. “With a space on Via Montenapoleone that is five times our former unit in Via Sant’Andrea, there is a lot more traffic and visibility,” he said. A new flagship will open in Paris on rue Saint-Honoré in October, he added.
 

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Raquel Allegra RTW Spring 2019

Raquel Allegra describes her hometown of Los Angeles as the land of “eternal spring” so it’s no wonder that it’s her favorite season to design. After being in business for 12 years, Allegra knows her customer well, but never ceases to learn new ways to make the experience better for both buyers and consumers.
“For spring 2019, I was super focused on making one big story so that the first and second deliveries merchandised together. It’s hard for buyers sitting there to order from two different collections, so I wanted to make it easier for them, which was also a fun challenge for me,” she said.
The prolific designer, who sometimes has difficulty trying to focus her collection — having lots of ideas is never a bad thing for a designer, but editing can be a challenge — started with a rainbow tie-dye, then removed the orange and green to focus on a golden yellow, pale lilac and azure blue.
Her best pieces were the log satin and chiffon-satin dresses that were hand-dyed from both ends, so the top and bottom featured saturated colors that gracefully faded and met in the middle.
Allegra’s woven print stories — a medium she’s only recently begun to

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Fabiana Filippi RTW Spring 2019

Fabiana Filippi took its spring collection on a trip to Île Sainte-Marie, off the Madagascar coasts, and drew inspiration from the resort location’s natural tones of anthracite, turquoise and plum. The lineup emphasized natural fabrics, such as crisp linen for a range of skirts with handkerchief hems, and more technical materials including a nylon blend for Windbreakers, in case of a summer tropical storm.
A shimmering gray kimono-style blazer, cinched at the waist, was paired with a roomy asymmetrical skirt and with an overcoat for a look that exuded a sense of discreet, luxurious minimalism. In keeping with its signature aesthetic, the collection, designed by a team, provided the right wardrobe for a trip to Africa without giving up elegance and comfort.

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Top Trends From the Spring 2019 New York Trade Shows

A look at the standout trends from Coterie, Capsule, Cabana and Woman.

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No. 21 RTW Spring 2019

Maintaining separate personalities when designing two lines is never an easy feat. This season, Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s Rochas girl spilled over into his collection for No. 21. “It’s the erotic side of the bourgeoisie,” he said of his ladylike outfits with a whiff of “Belle de Jour.”
He opened with an all-black sequence of decorous staples done in glossy fabrics that gave them an off-kilter edge. Glazed chiffon lent a bin-liner sheen to a Forties-style button-up blouse, while a pencil skirt in faux patent ostrich leather shimmered like an oil slick.
A plain vest and skirt, meanwhile, were layered with a thick rhinestone chain that suggested the outline of a T-shirt, in a use of negative space with fetishistic overtones. Dell’Acqua dialed back his signature masculine tailoring, save for the boxy outerwear rendered in sculptural fabrics like a soft nude Neoprene.
“Some of them zip open to reveal a glimpse of bare back, and the shoes are very sexy,” he said backstage, pointing to the barely there sandals with transparent straps.
The designer kept embellishment to a minimum — a quartet of dresses trimmed in showy ostrich feathers, and a bugle-beaded slipdress that was a walking sparkle filter — and instead used couture-inspired volumes for

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Aspinal of London Releases Spring Lineup and Giles Deacon Capsule  

DOUBLE TAKE: Aspinal of London unveiled its spring collection alongside a 25-piece capsule in collaboration with Giles Deacon, consisting of the brand’s top handbag and accessories sellers.
The Regent Street flagship came alive with Deacon’s hand-drawn illustrations, depicting the women of Aspinal seen through his eyes, and these were blown up as giant cardboard cutouts and plastered across the shop floor.
The colorful print was adorned on the brand’s mini Trunk bag, the Regent tote bag and the Micro Lottie style, while the best-selling Hepburn bag featured a single girl embossed on the front.
These Aspinal ladies consisted of an international cast, “yet still very quintessentially English,” but with a more global appeal, highlighting the brand’s overseas expansion plans in the Middle East and China.
“Giles didn’t want to reinvent the wheel in terms of product, so there are no new bag styles and he chose the ones most synonymous to the brand,” a spokeswoman said.
These handbags lined the walls of the store and were perched on display tables while scarves embellished with the print hung off display bars or sat neatly folded in drawers.
Further down into the heart of the store, the new handbag collection influenced by ballerinas was on show. The Trunk,

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Amanda Wakeley RTW Spring 2019

Amanda Wakeley journeyed deeper into North Africa with this collection of safari suits and breezy dresses with patterns inspired by vintage ocelot prints, painted tiles and tapestries. During a walk-through at her flagship and showroom on Albemarle Street, Wakeley said she’s treating the seasons as a continuum and a series of layers, with themes that develop over the months and regular drops throughout the year.
This spring outing was packed with lots of snappy tailoring, including an olive safari suit and stone-colored suede safari jacket, which Wakeley paired with a long black belt. The ocelot pattern worked its way onto lightweight kimono tops and maxiskirts, while a long, kimono-style dress had long fringes on the hem. Languid jackets and wide-leg trousers came in olive or creamy satin.
Wakeley also showed off a new collection of sunglasses, jewelry and bags made from sheared kangaroo. She has been increasingly reaching out to her consumers, with lucrative QVC appearances and trunk shows at the store. She’s also planning a six-month pop-up at Bicester Village outside London.

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David Koma RTW Spring 2019

David Koma has been obsessed with Pedro Almodóvar’s films for a very long time. “All About My Mother” was the inspiration behind his very first collection — at age 14. For this season, he rewatched “Talk To Her” and “Volver” and was moved to explore Spanish dance, specifically the dynamic flamenco, as the starting point for his spring offering.
Koma put his own, minimal, all-out sexy spin on the drama, ruffled skirts and polka dots associated with the dance, refining ruffles into structural peplums and translating dots into sheer spot mesh or shimmery plexi embellishments, which winked along the edges of shoulder seams, cutouts and hemlines.
Carmen Amaya, the late Romani flamenco dancer who would wear trousers in her performances to emphasize movement, was the inspiration behind the lineup’s terrific trousers. Also calling to mind styles worn by matadors, they were cut high on the waist, with a soft flare created by split hems.
His palette, as always, was on the noir side, freshened by white and lilac. Pieces in neon yellow or bright green looked better head-to-toe rather than paired with or trimmed in black, which made those looks seem a bit labored.
Unusually for such a specific reference, the best looks here

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Fashion East RTW Spring 2019

Charlotte Knowles, Yuhan Wang and Asai’s A Sai Ta served up a combination of experimental and tongue-in-cheek designs at the Fashion East showcase, where utilitarian silhouettes, string bikinis and girly details poked fun at stereotypical female codes.
Knowles opened the show with a red corseted number that had a halter-neck bikini attachment, which laid out the foundation to her spring collection. A sea-lion printed dress, which looked like it was made out of bikinis, fitted leggings and Lycra shorts with leg ties all riffed off the two-piece swimwear. These hyper-feminine pieces were contrasted with trashy chic low-rise jeans and a fitted military jacket.
Wang’s portrait of a woman was soft, delicate yet slightly run down. Silk and printed jersey dresses were loosely bunched and gathered at the sides and these flounced gently down the runway. While these styles were dreamy, they also looked like ensembles made for women of the night. Dresses were cut out at the hip and slashed around the legs and their gloved hands fell drearily to the wayside.
Asai’s A Sai Ta took a welcome break from his usual fringed looks and introduced more tailored pieces, such as an oil slick coat and a wide utilitarian waist belt with flap

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Molly Goddard RTW Spring 2019

Molly Goddard has been thinking of ways to renew herself and experiment with fabrics and silhouettes, beyond her signature tulle creations.
For spring 2019, she turned to everyday fabrics like cotton-poplin and chiffon to create more easygoing, fuss-free pieces, from tailored trousers to loose tunics and trenchcoats.
Yet she also injected a healthy dose of the eccentricity and laissez fair attitude she’s known for: Myriad frills were added onto the hems of white cotton shirts or on the necks of bright polka-dot midi dresses; big plastic flower brooches were appliquéd onto blazers and loose floral dresses, while cabbages doubled as clutch bags.
There was also an array of desirable summer dresses that could easily slot into the wardrobes of any sunseeker with a flair for luxury and style — sequined mini numbers featuring polka-dot patterns in photogenic lilac and red shades, check tunics with charming broderie anglaise embroideries and open-back floral midi dresses — that had a nostalgic, vintage feel.
As she continues to evolve, Goddard succeeded in achieving a fine balance between the eccentric and the relatable, giving her audience enough new material to get excited about while staying true to her ethos of celebrating women and encouraging them to dress for themselves

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Matty Bovan RTW Spring 2019

Matty Bovan’s ladies don’t exactly travel light, what with their skyscraper hats made from pots and pans, kitchen utensils and feather dusters, and corset dresses made from crochet layers, big puffs of tulle and colored ribbons. Dressed in layered skirts bigger than Scarlett O’Hara’s, his models were two-legged carnival floats — albeit ones who accessorized with Coach bags.
Bovan said he took his inspiration from the Eighties filmmaker Derek Jarman and wanted to telegraph a message of “hyper nature.” He thought it would be fun to bombard people with texture in an age of mass information and overload. The dresses were a delight — if rough around the edges and utterly unwearable — with their crinolines, webs of flower crochet, string bikini tops, tangles of string and shiny foil fabrics.
The sleeves on bolero jackets were like giant cocoons that were dotted with what looked like bits of broken glass, tulle and string. Knits, meanwhile, came bright and tight and digitally patterned and layered, in chaotic mixes. The whole show was upbeat — and student-y — the sort of exuberant collection that London is known for, but which still needs some serious fine-tuning before it can go commercial.
Bovan is well on his

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Whit RTW Spring 2019

Designer Whitney Pozgay recently moved the company’s headquarters to Brooklyn where she can actually enjoy a garden. That green area served as inspiration for her colorful and breezy collection, which showed an appealing combination of simple, essential silhouettes matched with flamboyant prints.
Teaming with two different artists, she splashed floral patterns on airy and roomy sustainable cotton frocks, flared skirts and sundresses. Flowers were also embroidered on white-and-blue striped shirtdresses. For a more graphic appeal, irregular checks appeared on a front-buttoned long skirt matched with a coordinated crop top, while arty vertical stripes peppered a short-sleeve shirt tucked into short pants.
In keeping with the brand’s attention to sustainability, Whit collaborated with an independent mill for the organic silk crafted for chic and feminine polka-dot camisoles and fluid dresses.

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Maryam Nassir Zadeh RTW Spring 2019

Eclecticism was at the core of Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s spring collection. The athleticism was combined with the feminine via cycling shorts paired with a textured spaghetti-strap top, while a mannish vibe was introduced with a suit in a plaid pattern; its look softened by the gentle round collar; a bodysuit with matching corset layered under a trenchcoat exuded pure sensuality.
Flounced dresses and skirts had a vibrant, charming vibe and a minimal silk dress with a crisscross detail at the neckline embodied metropolitan elegance. An arty vibe was introduced via a ruffled top combining different silk patches and an intarsia knitted insert while a zebra-printed bikini closed the show on a wild note.

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Gabriela Hearst RTW Spring 2019

There were no distractions at Gabriela Hearst’s immaculate spring show (not counting the bountiful lunch buffet to the side, a happy pre- and postshow diversion). The white SoHo gallery was blank but for copper-wrapped columns. The looks were exactingly styled by Camilla Nickerson, who stripped away the superfluous so each garment, shoe, bag and, yes, fine jewelry — a new category launch — was crystal-clear, more so than ever.
Hearst is a perfectionist with the highest luxury standards, and the wherewithal and tenacity to achieve them. She makes it look easy, and perhaps that’s why her work is resonating. Though certainly rarefied, her collection is attainable, grounded in reality. The fine lines and restraint of her clothes belie the romantic, intellectual backstories and intensive fabric development that take the clothes from concept to commerce. Fueling spring’s minimalist femininity was the creative relationships between Maria Kodama and Jorge Luis Borges and Salvador and Gala Dalí, which she admires for their unconditional artist/muse devotion. “When you go on these creative journeys for a collection, there’s a lot of magic that happens,” explained Hearst during a preview. “It’s almost like invoking certain spirits.”
By her own admission, Hearst was moved to “feminine mode.” Suits done

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Every Outfit Kaia Gerber Has Worn During New York Fashion Week Spring 2019

ESC: NYFW Best Looks, Tom Ford, Kaia GerberKaia Gerber has transformed from a runway newbie to a top model at New York Fashion Week.
In comparison to some of her older peers, the 17-year-old star has risen to success quickly. It…

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Every Outfit Kaia Gerber Has Worn During New York Fashion Week Spring 2019

ESC: NYFW Best Looks, Tom Ford, Kaia GerberKaia Gerber has transformed from a runway newbie to a top model at New York Fashion Week.
In comparison to some of her older peers, the 17-year-old star has risen to success quickly. It…

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J. Mendel RTW Spring 2019

The famous gardens of Impressionist painter Claude Monet in Giverny were the inspiration for the fresh, charming color palette of Gilles Mendel’s elegant spring collection. The arty reference was combined with a late Seventies’ vibe, which resulted in a certain free-spirited yet always refined attitude injected in the lineup.
Fluid, flowy dresses were cut in a range of silhouettes, from long-sleeved styles embellished with precious textured embroideries, to plissé color-blocked V-neck frocks with pretty beaded decorations on the sleeves. to a range of covetable silk devoré styles with abstract motifs.
The designer put the focus on the bodice with flattering corset constructions, introducing a vein of polished sensuality with bustier frilled organza gowns and a draped column style revealing an exquisite floral decoration at the waist.
In keeping with the moody weather of the week, the spring lineup was rounded out with a range of outerwear options, including a more quotidian, sporty-chic bomber with a drawstring and exclusive astrakhan panels as well as luxurious mink short jackets and shawls to layer over the collection’s pretty dresses for an extra-luxurious touch.

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Brock Collection RTW Spring 2019

Breakfast at Le Coucou — a delightful way to start a Sunday morning, particularly so during the frenzy of New York Fashion Week. Laura Vassar and Kris Brock chose the restaurant, one of their favorites, as the venue for their spring Brock Collection show, imagining throughout the design process how the clothes would look in the setting.
The answer: Clothes and space looked made for each other, the undone gentility of the exposed brick walls reflecting the subtle touch of toughness beneath the collection’s prettiness. In their show notes, the designers said they had considered “this notion of raw American romance.” “We wanted it to be a breath of fresh air, and for [it to] feel alive and courageous,” Vassar said backstage post-show. “Reading about and looking at Georgia O’Keeffe’s work and how she approached it — expressing that [which] she couldn’t find words for, a feeling of wanting to do something vibrant and alive.”
For the Brock duo, vibrant and alive is synonymous with romantic and sexy-pretty. Here, they imbued their lingerie-derived signatures with a casual attitude in washed, rumpled fabrics. Wallpaper prints had a vintage feel while ikat patterns most specifically referenced O’Keeffe’s Southwest. The designers love a corset construction,

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Adeam RTW Spring 2019

By hosting her runway show at Chelsea’s legendary Tunnel nightclub, which closed its doors in 2001, Hanako Maeda wanted to highlight the inspiration behind her pretty collection.
The designer looked at the Nineties’ club scene in the U.S. and Japan, which not only influenced her choice of colors and materials, including PVC and bold tones juxtaposed with nocturnal hues, but also resulted in a certain experimental vibe. There was nothing too rebellious about the collection, but there certainly was a creative edge mixed with charming sophistication. For example, bright orange PVC was crafted into a corset belt layered over an elegant off-the-shoulder frock with roomy sleeves, and into a polished trenchcoat worn with a nylon bow blouse tucked into a belted trouser skirt.
A Nineties’ vibe resonated not only in the yellow tartan crafted for a tailored trenchcoat and a chic double-breasted blazer cut longer in the back that was inspired by the uber-recognizable plaid suit worn by Alicia Silverstone in the iconic 1995 movie “Clueless” — one of Maeda’s favorite films — but also in the baby pink and indigo Japanese denim designs. Ranging from relaxed jackets and bootleg five-pockets to hyper-feminine bustier tops, they were embellished with sweet bows, a

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Kim Shui RTW Spring 2019

Kim Shui’s spring collection was an exploration of process — namely the creation of tie-dye, but also that of deconstruction and reconstruction. She sent down one twisted and manipulated look after the next, including shirting made to be worn askew, playful pants with various flyaway panels, and skin-baring dresses in polka dots and reworked cheongsam styles. She modernized traditional qipao dresses into skirts and structured bustiers to contrast the fluid unraveling of voluminous tops, signaling a blend of eastern tradition with western ideals of sexiness. Tie-dye pieces were standouts, especially those contrasted with a fluid skirt or cropped button down with trailing shirttail. Elsewhere, she displayed a confidently quirky hand with tailored looks, including a sleeveless suit cut on one side with leopard and the other with a muted green floral.

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New York Fashion Week Spring 2019: Best Looks From Celebrity Street Style

ESC: Priyanka Chopra, Street StyleGet ready to whip out your credit cards, because it’s time to shop!
While New York Fashion Week runways will make you drool with awing clothing, there’s a few reasons why you…

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New York Fashion Week Spring 2019: Best Looks From Celebrity Street Style

ESC: Priyanka Chopra, Street StyleGet ready to whip out your credit cards, because it’s time to shop!
While New York Fashion Week runways will make you drool with awing clothing, there’s a few reasons why you…

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VFiles RTW Spring 2019

VFiles is a brand whose core is to engage and bring spotlight to young talent — musicians, models, designers — and its spring 2019 show aimed to do it all. Sponsored by Sprite and set on the floor of Barclays Center, the brand opened up its spectacle to the public with 2,800 Eventbrite tickets up for grabs. Endearing for the VFiles community and fans, a bit daunting for those invited, but overall an event with fun, elaborate style.
Post DJ set from A-Trak and a short film by Hidji Films, the fashion began with recent Parsons grad Elena Velez’s “aftermath industries” collection. The devastation and demolition of World War II inspired Velez’s use of regulation fabrics of the time. Linens and cottons were fastened to the steel bustier bodices of coats and dresses while silky parachutes were transformed and wrapped into sheer garments.
In between a few too many #PassTheAux musical performance breaks, VFiles winners Marknull, Shuting Qui and Windowsen took the runway. Wei Wang and Tim Shi of Marknull, the Beijing-based duo behind Marknull, played a mix of layered sportswear, warped plaids and some great wavy denim, paired with mini trompe l’oeil cape bags with hanger handles and flip phones;

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Rachel Zoe RTW Spring 2019

It’s hard to believe that stylist and designer Rachel Zoe already has 31 ready-to-wear collections under her belt, but she found her formula early on — Seventies-inspired glam and California boho — and has stuck with it. She diverged just a bit toward voluminous romantic looks awash in pink for her spring 2019 offering, to great effect.
“I just all of a sudden got super feminine this season,” she said after her dinner presentation at the Hotel Bel-Air. “Something about feeling feminine but strong and being OK with that.” The blush tones have inspired many a designer each season, but Zoe has always been a strictly black, white and gold girl.
“Over the last year I started to love petal pink, blush, cranberry…and once I started, I couldn’t stop. It’s almost like the older you get, you just don’t sweat things the way you always have,” she said about breaking from her norm.
Most refreshing were the billowy silhouettes from gowns to jackets, bold sequined florals and a custom kiss print dress, but the new hues also served her classic flared pantsuits and flowy maxidresses well.
Her chic take on denim included a ruffly indigo silk gown and a two-piece set that included frayed

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Zac Posen Presents Spring — With a Little Help From Friends

Like lots of designers, Zac Posen wears many hats. In fact, he says it shakes out to 16 collections a year. He designs for Brooks Brothers; recently updated the uniforms at Delta Air Lines; released a cookbook; judges on “Project Runway,” and released a documentary. But it was his namesake label that started it all.
To present that collection for spring 2019, Posen is once again forgoing a traditional runway show — something he has done for several seasons — in favor of images and a film. The difference this season is that the film has a more narrative- and character-driven feeling. Gia Coppola shot the piece, with Maya Hawke as muse. To Posen, Hawke was more than just a subject — both she and Coppola are close personal friends, and Hawke, who was looped in and confirmed while he was still designing the collection, helped to influence his designs for the season. So spring 2019 was a family affair.
“The original Zac girl is a creative free spirit. When I think of my early muses, this collection has almost come full circle to that idea. It’s not grande dame, or overt glamour, there is a new side to it,” he says

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Men’s Spring 2019: Flying Colors

The men’s collections for spring skew young, vibrant — and very spiffy. A plethora of tailored elements mingle with explosive color and touches of Nineties raver.

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Top Men’s Trends for Spring 2019

First came dad sneakers — and now the so-uncool-they’re-cool jeans to match.

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Theory Men’s Spring 2019

Well-known for his take on creating timeless wardrobe pieces with a cool minimalistic twist, Theory’s Martin Andersson’s spring collection keeps building on the same principles it has for the few past seasons: mobility and innovation. 
“We asked ourselves, who is the Theory guy, and concluded that he’s into travel,” Andersson said at the brand’s spring presentation.
A capsule collection focusing on the idea of mobility and travel — packable seam-sealed blazers, travel Mac coats, water-resistant shirts and even a tracksuit — were all designed to be worn from the office straight to the airport.
Andersson has a knack for giving wardrobe staples a cool, minimalist élan via color and cut. His spring palette spanned forest greens, navy, khaki and bright pops of electric yellow and pink that were inspired from Dan Flavin’s light installations at Dia: Beacon.
A standout were the khaki pieces, such as khaki chinos with a contrast waistband paired with a bright pink sweater — a perfect blend of casual and sporty.

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Men’s Spring 2019 Trend: Get Smart

Dressing up again — in easy, laid-back tailoring — was a key message of the men’s shows, and a riposte to the streetwear juggernaut.

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Eidos Men’s Spring 2019

It’s a new day for Eidos.
The “younger cousin” of Italian luxury brand Isaia showcased its first full spring collection designed by Simon Spurr, who named creative director of the line last November, at an event at its Madison Square office Tuesday night. The lineup was called — appropriately — Contrast, which spoke to Spurr’s seamless integration of the company’s Neapolitan tailoring roots with what he described as “undertones of British punk.”
The English-born Spurr said, “Each season there will be a tailoring spine and then I’ll wrap something around the tailoring.”
This time around, that translated into Hawaiian-printed short-sleeve shirts, pink fringed suede jackets, indigo tie-dye jean jackets and Breton striped linen sweaters. Even the windowpane patterned suits were modernized. “We’ve done them in a younger way, printed them, they’re a little more graphic,” he said. Ditto for the silhouette, which was slim and youthful.
Isaia launched Eidos as a stand-alone brand in 2013, but Spurr’s addition has managed to elevate the label with an international point of view.

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Sundae School Men’s Spring 2019

What is smokewear? According to Dae Lim, who designs Sundae School, it’s a category of clothing that’s not confined to weed smokers but supportive of recreational weed smoking in subtle and overt ways.
Lim grew up in Seoul, where marijuana usage is still illegal, but came to the U.S. 11 years ago and was introduced to it as a teen. After studying math at Harvard, he joined McKinsey & Co. as a consultant but decided that wasn’t the environment for him and got a job at VFiles as the head of growth. He used his resources there to create Sundae School, which is a year old and started out with mostly graphic T-shirts and dad hats emblazoned with stoner puns. But for his spring 2019 collection, he expanded on his original proposition with a proper apparel collection that’s titled Ddul-Sunbi — ddul is a slang term teens in Korea use for weed and sunbi means scholar.
He imagined a world where scholars explored weed and collaborated with South Korean illustrator Yeonbun on a graphic depicting that scenario. He also looked to hanbok, traditional Korean dress, to present a neutral lineup of casual but refined clothing. Models wore mostly leisure suits that consisted of lightweight poly jackets with tie

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Gustav von Aschenbach Men’s Spring 2019

In its third season, Robert Geller’s Gustav von Aschenbach seems to be finally developing its own identity.
Although a younger and more fun offshoot of the designer’s main line, the collection still has Geller’s signature, with its traditional boxy silhouettes, washed cotton fabrics and saturated tones.
But G.V.A., as the line is now being called, has more of a streetwear edge. The use of logos, slogans and appliquéd photographs spoke to Geller’s love of Swiss graphic design and typography — as evidenced by the word Basel used on garments throughout.
“The G.V.A. kid is evolving into a young artist, who expresses himself through individualistic, self-confident clothes,” Geller said.
Some of this artistic expression shone through in a creative casting mix of models and New York street dancers that added a jolt of energy and fun to the show.
Among the highlights was an array of light outerwear, from trenchcoats and cropped field jackets to utility varsities. Embellished with the graphic details, these became one-of-a-kind pieces.
Geller’s ability to create a younger alter-ego allows him to channel trendier and more of-the-now pieces. But coupled with his more romantic and mature Robert Geller collection, these two sides of his personality seem perfectly aligned.

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Gucci to Show Spring 2019 Collection at Théâtre Le Palace in Paris

PALACE BOUND: Gucci revealed on Monday that its spring 2019 collection will be presented at Théâtre Le Palace in Paris on Sept. 24 at 9 p.m. The Italian fashion house said this is the first time the location will host a runway show.
Le Palace, located at 8 Rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, served for years as a nightclub, drawing members of the fashion and music industries as well as an underground culture.
“The Théâtre Le Palace resonates with the vision of the house as it is a venue that gave life to a (sub)culture that has inspired young generations up until today,” said a statement from Gucci.
This is a one-off show for Gucci in Paris and marks the crescendo of a three-part homage to France conceived by the Italian brand’s creative director, Alessandro Michele.
Gucci began its ode to France starting with its pre-fall advertising campaign, which harks back to that country circa 1968, when student marches and riots sparked popular rebellions against military and bureaucratic elites. Photographed and directed by Glen Luchford, it depicts Gucci-clad rebels occupying a university campus, passionately challenging the establishment and asking for change. Luchford’s black-and-white photos are inspired by the bold French Nouvelle Vague imagery of the late Fifties and Sixties and by radical filmmakers François

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Nick Graham Men’s Spring 2019

Nick Graham’s space odyssey continued for spring with a collection titled “1969.” He called it “one of the most transformational years in our history, a year that had both the first landing on the moon by Apollo 11 and also Woodstock, both of which were pretty transformative events in our culture.”
A rocket-shaped 1959 Cadillac Cyclone concept car — the only one made and dispatched from the company’s archives in Detroit — was parked on the runway and served as the perfect backdrop for the zesty show.
It opened with a troupe of boys dancing in “Martian in Training” T-shirts, followed by a parade of traditional sartorial clothing that was super fitted to the body with cropped blazers and tapered pants. Metallic bomber jackets with NASA logos set the tone for an array of intergalactic references that included alien faces printed on shirts and atomic symbols on the breast pockets of suit jackets.
In addition to the suits— which were offered in colorful, shiny solids and exaggerated men’s wear classic patterns — Graham introduced a lot more casualwear, including logo hoodies and sweat pants.
Although Graham’s obsession with space travel is nothing new, it continues to provide a fun story line and an uplifting

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Nihl Men’s Spring 2019

In his New York show, Neil Grotzinger of Nihl, the LVMH Prize finalist, broke traditional rules of masculinity with a collection that centered around bending the rules of those in authority.
He took police officers, football players and Wall Street brokers and turned their wardrobes on their head by “exploring the qualities of borderline ephemerality and downright queerness,” according to the liner notes.

A clear example was a pair of football pants made from fine white silk he paired with a handmade chain mail tank top. An authentic crinkled painter’s tarp — black on one side, green on the other with drawstrings included — was reinterpreted as pants and a top.

Grotzinger’s use of elaborate embroidery techniques appeared as embellishments on several pieces, including the sleeves of sheer tops and a sliced-open basketball short.

The use of revealing cutouts and jock straps throughout the collection added a level of eroticism while enhancing the masculinity of the offering.

“The concepts of masculinity can be very restrictive and I like to break the conformity of that,” Grotzinger said.

In this debut, Grotzinger gained a lot of attention by breaking the rules — in the right way.

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Jahnkoy Men’s Spring 2019

Maria Jahnkoy, whose real name is Maria Kazakova, is Siberian and studied at Central Saint Martins and Parsons, has received a lot of support from the industry with her brand narrative, which is centered on preserving traditional craftsmanship and reworking it for a new generation.
She was shortlisted for the 2017 LVMH Prize and has found fans in consultant Julie Gilhart and Bruce Pask, the men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. Kazakova also has the support of Puma, Swarovski and the CFDA’s Elaine Gold Launch Pad program.
Her goal has always been to connect larger companies with local artisans, but with the extra help she’s been able to expand on that and bring more makers from Brooklyn and India into the mix. The show, which was more like a theatrical art project, was a collective effort as well. Titled “Deceived: No More,” the performance explored how the fashion industry impacts cultural identity. The presentation, which was choreographed by Nathan Trice, was broken up into three parts: chaos, unification and order. Much like her previous presentations, she made the runway mimic a chaotic city street that was dotted with orange cones and caution signs — one read “Separation is No

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Abasi Rosborough Men’s Spring 2019

In their sophomore showing during New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough explored a desert phantom theme that referenced a variety of vanishing cultures and tribes.
The design duo paraded a diverse range, from kimono-inspired jackets and coats and fitted cargo pants to Navajo-printed parkas. The color palette included deep burgundies and burnt orange that brought an Eastern sensibility to the forefront, while a flowing white section telegraphed the desert inspiration. “We even looked at ‘Lawrence of Arabia,’” Rosborough noted.
A wrinkled cotton hybrid poncho with matching head scarf and an ethereal topcoat in the same fabric also drove the desert theme home. Likewise, a Tencel linen that was frayed to look old — employed for bomber jackets and coats — reinforced that worn-in traveler vibe.
With this effort, Abasi Rosborough continues to make its mark in men’s fashion. “We’ve seen an exodus of big designers this week, but we look at it as an opportunity for new designers to step forward,” Rosborough said.

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Robin Derrick Departs Spring Studios to Pursue Beauty Project

BEAUTY CALLING: The London-based creative Robin Derrick is departing Spring Studios as global executive director to move onto a new, unnamed project in the beauty arena.
Derrick worked at Spring in his global role for seven years, having joined in 2011 from Condé Nast where he’d spent 20 years as creative director of British Vogue.
During his tenure at Spring, Derrick was the creative lead of the company during a growth period. Spring opened in New York in 2013 and Milan in 2016.
While at Spring, Derrick had been developing his own brand and business projects. “Robin is now leaving to devote his time to those projects. We take this opportunity to wish him well for the future and thank him for his years of service to Spring,” the company said Wednesday.
Derrick said he learned “invaluable lessons from both the incredible staff and inspirational clients. I am grateful for an extraordinary opportunity to help build a next-generation communication company and I look forward to watching Spring grow in the future.”
It is understood that Derrick’s next project will be in beauty, although a spokesperson for Spring said it was still confidential and declined to give any details.
Derrick is married to Lisa Eldridge, the celebrity makeup artist and author who also has a successful

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Head of State Men’s Spring 2019

For his first runway show, Nigerian-born designer Taofeek Abijako, took inspiration from Afrofuturism and paraded a lineup with a distinct Seventies feel. 
Cue an array of high-waisted cropped and flared pants, fitted sweatshirts and message T-shirts.
The standouts were the flared pants, worn with matching boots, which gave it a New York Seventies vibe. 
Head of State is now part of Groupe, a distribution umbrella formed by James and Gwendolyn Jurney of Seize sur Vingt, which manages and nurtures independent designers and brands. Abijako was the first brand chosen, allowing him to focus strictly on creating the collection while Groupe provides the funding for samples and production.     

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Bode Men’s Spring 2019

Aaron Aujla, owner of Green River Project, a furniture and interiors firm, was Emily Bode’s primary reference point this season. She met Aujla in New York and they’ve previously worked together on other projects. (He’s created all of the furniture for Bode’s presentations.)
For her collection, Bode drew from Aujla’s lineage. His family is from India, but he grew up in British Columbia. Bode has always outsourced her embroidery and embellishment work in India, but this season she worked with more Indian textiles that had historical significance. She made suits from Khadi towels, an Indian fabric and developed another suit from India’s government subsidized mill prints.
Bode said the Khadi fabric has a connection to Mahatma Gandhi’s self-reliance movement, which urged Indians to bring weaving back into the home as opposed to buying these goods from other countries.
Highlights included a white fringed button-up shirt made of chenille, a pair of floral print high-waisted pants constructed from curtain fabric, and a bright yellow matching set printed with a village motif that consisted of a crepe de chine shirt and duchesse-satin pants.
The furniture was influenced by Indian filmmaker Satyajit Ray’s 1966 “Nayak,” which was filmed on a train, and each of the pieces were

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Ricardo Seco Men’s Spring 2019

The 50th anniversary of the Mexico City Olympics served as the jumping off point for Ricardo Seco’s spring men’s collection.

The designer used stripes and optical illusions along with the late Sixties font and Olympics rings to pay homage to the 1968 Games. These graphics showed up in bombers, T-shirts and track pants that Seco reimagined in bright colors or vibrant black and white.

More contemporary visual elements such as cell phones and skates were used as accents inside jackets while the current immigration crisis was referenced by large DACA lettering on T-shirts and socks. Seco also went back to the beginning of the Black Power movement by using the now-famous fist symbol on tops.

The overall vibe of the collection felt upbeat despite the political references.

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Reconstruct Collective Men’s Spring 2019

Reconstruct Collective, consisting of five female designers, began out of necessity. After learning that the Willem de Kooning Academy wasn’t able to put on a fashion show for its graduating class, students banded together to organize their own show. And in order to raise money for the show, they needed to form a business with the chamber of commerce. Because they worked so well together, Laura Aanen, Alyssa Groeneveld, Kim Kivits, Michelle Lievaart and Sanne Verkleij decided to start a collective shortly after graduating. Now three collections in, the Amsterdam-based company opted to show in New York, which Groeneveld said made sense for the brand, which caters to the youth.
For spring the unisex line was based on a fictional place called Planet Re-4 and the fictional characters that live there. The lineup, which Groeneveld said falls between streetwear and couture, was made up of reconstructions of sporty pieces. They presented cropped bubble vests and matching miniskirts, wide-leg nylon pants decorated with multiple drawstrings or reflective material, cropped tank tops with the Re-4 logo and jackets made from strips of fabric. The waistbands displayed a graphic Reconstruct logo. They also reconfigured Converse tracksuits and pieces from The New Originals, an Amsterdam-based

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Public School Men’s Spring 2019

Call it Public School part two.
On the final night of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, the streetwear-skewed brand held a party and presentation at a space on Howard Street in Chinatown with its theme kept under wraps until the doors opened.
“This is our space,” said Dao-Yi Chow, who designs the label with Maxwell Osborne. “This will be our first retail store and this is a soft launch of the space.”
Throughout the location were mannequins dressed in the new collection — although Chow said the description “needs an asterisk by ‘new.’ Everything is recycled, upcycled or dead stock,” he said, and is intended to represent our new philosophy.”
While the philosophy may be new, the lineup revisited the duo’s greatest hits.
They revisited collaborations with like-minded brands including Eileen Fisher, whose dead-stock silks became striped pajama-inspired ensembles; Levi’s, whose vintage denim was reworked into cropped trucker jackets, and Alpha Industries military fabrics made into sleek outerwear.
“It’s very much the foundation and our past and then looking into the future,” Osborne added.
The collection reflected that with a clear example being a supersharp black suit with built-in cargo pockets and statement zippers. A short-sleeve jumpsuit — also part of their DNA — was so elegant

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Todd Snyder Men’s Spring 2019

Todd Snyder closed New York Fashion Week: Men’s on a high note, sending out a feel-good collection full of bright colors and a youthful attitude that he titled “The American Tourist.”
“I played a lot with a mix of sartorial and campy references,” he said backstage before the show, where truffle popcorn and beer was served.
The opening look set the tone for the collection: a yellow T-shirt with a photo of a Waffle House that was taken by folk rocker Gerry Beckley of the group America. A series, all shot by the musician, are to make their debut for spring.
Snyder, the king of collaborations, unveiled other partnerships at the show including a line of terry-cloth bucket hats with Kangol, high-top tie-dye sneakers with Novesta, and perhaps the most striking, archival Hawaiian prints from Reyn Spooner that he used most successfully on an updated suit. “It’s the modern leisure suit,” he said.
His longtime partnership with Champion was also on display in bomber jackets, paneled sweatshirts and underwear. It even appeared as a side stripe on a plaid patterned suit.
Another play on the Americana theme came with the introduction of a new logo — “Snyder’s” in retro block letters — that he used

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Romeo Hunte Men’s Spring 2019

Romeo Hunte didn’t make any friends in his men’s runway debut in New York. His choice of a site away from the other venues and the complete chaos in the lobby of the Dream Downtown Hotel with hundreds of people attempting to access elevators to get to the rooftop site was bad enough. The fact that his team couldn’t get its act together to start his show until nearly an hour after it was planned had everyone eyeing the exits before the first look came out.
Once the show finally started, it was clear that Hunte had an underwater sports adventure as his overriding theme. He used neoprene from diving wetsuits that he reimagined as performance vests in bright colors and cropped jackets with exaggerated necklines.

Camo prints in cargo pants and bombers and the use of safety orange enhanced the streetwear flair. But while the line showed some promise, there were several missteps, including poorly executed tailoring and some unfortunate sequined embellished sweatshirts. But apart from that, the collection was youthful and carefree.

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Death to Tennis Men’s Spring 2019

Summertime was the prevailing theme for William Watson and Vincent Oshin, the duo behind Death to Tennis. The designers, who are both British, were feeling nostalgic and a bit homesick so they looked to old beachside photographs to inform their lineup, which they said is one of their most colorful collections to date.
They leaned into the old and new, utilizing a color palette consisting of royal blue, purple, yellow, olive red and navy that brought to mind Ralph Lauren and Cross Colours from the Nineties.
These colors lent new life to core items such as graphic T-shirts, hoodies and the McCarthy jacket, which Justin Bieber popularized. They showed these signatures alongside cargo pants with minimal pockets, boxy button-up shirts, cotton parkas and shirt jackets. A long, hooded, colorblocked parka that grazed the ground was a standout.
The suit or matching set was another primary component. Models wore tracksuits, relaxed cotton suits and boxy shirts styled with slightly baggy pants. It was a nice take on tailored pieces that felt hip but not too trendy.
Death to Tennis is known for its original prints and this season it presented a camo pattern, a polo motif and a paint-splattered print.
Last season, the brand put on a

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Kenneth Nicholson Men’s Spring 2019

Kenneth Nicholson pulls from a varied bag of interests. The Houston native is as motivated by 18th-century dress as he is by outfits from “Soul Train” and military uniforms — after attending the Academy of Art in San Francisco, Nicholson spent a one-year stint in the Navy before he was honorably discharged. But his overall interest is in expanding the boundaries of men’s wear.
“Historically, men haven’t been restricted to just a shirt and pants. They’ve had more options,” Nicholson said. “I like to edify people and shake things up.”
He divided his collection into three chapters. The first chapter was a stark white, which Nicholson said was void of color to express sadness. Models wore cotton and linen long-sleeved shirtdresses with subtle swing hems, white lace shirts paired with cream high-waisted pants, and a brocade jacket with an exaggerated lapel coupled with a matching skirt. References to royalty were sprinkled throughout the lineup. Some models wore sashes, others wore crowns and a couple of the more structured, beaded looks with mock necks, nipped waists and peplums, which were highlights from the collection, brought to mind regalness.
The second chapter, which signaled better memories and featured more color, was the strongest. Nicholson doubled

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N. Hoolywood Men’s Spring 2019

This season, the N. Hoolywood designer Daisuke Obana delivered a lineup inspired by Native American artist T.C. Cannon, whose work he discovered during a recent trip to Arizona.
“The lines and the bold colors in the artist’s paintings were what drew me to them,” he said backstage, pointing to an array of blanket-like pieces, often paired with matching oversize shorts. This graphic inspiration was seen in everything from cropped bomber jackets and knitwear with fringe across the chest to oversize pants.
An added surprise was Obana’s collaboration with sportswear brand Umbro. It spanned logo T-shirts, long-sleeved soccer jerseys and elongated coats adorned with oversize Umbro logos done up in bright colors with vertical lines that tied back to Cannon’s paintings.
With their mix of deconstruction and surprising proportions, Obana’s Japanese silhouettes seamlessly blended the worlds of artisanal and active sport.

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Parke & Ronen Men’s Spring 2019

Leave it to Parke & Ronen to transport tired, hot New Yorkers to a beach in Malibu on a Tuesday afternoon in July.
“It’s all about L.A., baby,” said codesigner Parke Lutter backstage before the show.
He and Ronen Jehezkel trotted out a lovely array of pastel colors, floral prints and retro graphic stripes on swimwear, coverups and short-sleeve sweaters.
“We threw in a little Eighties vibe — we were listening to the Go-Go’s,” Lutter said, adding that the silhouette this season was classic but modernized with a little higher waist and more of a boxy feel.
The sheer shirts and pajama sets spoke of the leisurely lifestyle while the sleeveless hooded sweatshirts pushed a more athletic vibe.
With a soundtrack that included Lady Gaga’s “Boys, Boys, Boys” and Rod Stewart’s “Do You Think I’m Sexy,” Parke & Ronen proved that even after 21 years, they can still get a crowd energized while building on a successful business.

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Wood House Army Men’s Spring 2019

Since starting his brand two years ago, Julian Woodhouse, a former first lieutenant in the U.S. Army, and husband and codesigner Kirill Kabachenko have sought to create a uniform for their fashion army each season. This time around, the uniform was a mixture of Eighties BMX suits as well as a more-ethereal feel inspired by the rebirth of a phoenix.
The duo had spent two months in Asia and Woodhouse said the vision for the season came to him during a meditation.
The use of silk — a first for the brand — in airy parkas and ultralight cargo pants helped add a spiritual side to the collection while the motor racing references gave the lineup a tough edge.
The color palette of oranges and burnt reds together with the painterly phoenix print also combined to give an Eastern feel.
For its runway debut, Wood House Army’s mix of spirituality, athleticism and street edge proved to be a successful formula.

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Feng Chen Wang Men’s Spring 2019

Feng Chen Wang thought about the word “half” and what it means for human connection.
The show started with an opening of the curtains, which streamed sunlight into the dark space and emphasized the collection’s vivid color palette, which Wang said was meant to convey a range of human emotions.
The opening looks came in an icy blue gradient — sad — and progressed into an iridescent green and a warm hot pink — happy. Things ended with shades of black and gray, which Wang said played on black and white and the idea of half, or yin and yang.
The garments were amalgamations of sportswear basics. Wang placed double collars on long trenchcoats and pieced together two Levi’s jackets to make one. She did the same thing with Converse sneakers by adding an extra sole and merging two sneaker halves together. An extra leg was added to jeans and the more dramatic pieces consisted of collared shirts and trenchcoats that were draped on top of each other and fell down to the floor.
Some of these pieces revealed the heart, another means to depict feelings. Wang discovered that different sentiments lead to different body temperatures and she presented PVC pieces to highlight the

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Dyne Men’s Spring 2019

Christopher Bevans has become skillful at morphing super high-tech fabrics and performance designs with fashion silhouettes that reflect today’s trends. And that was especially evident in his spring presentation for Dyne, which he titled “Future Nomad.”
“We’re bringing our love of the outdoors in the Pacific Northwest to the city we grew up in,” said the New York-born designer.

His lineup included a hybrid trenchcoat/anorak with side zippers that looked light as a feather yet had all the necessary performance elements.

Other standouts included an ultralight navy suit with micro-cargo pockets on the sleeves that doubled as an embellishment.

“It’s all about survival skills,” he said.

The use of tie-dye — this season’s omnipresent print — in technical fabrics complemented the painterly abstract print used in paneling strips.

Bevans also stood out from others this season by embedding his well-known near-field communication chip into the garments and allowing the invited show guests to place orders on the spot for pieces from the spring line. “You can get it in four weeks,” he said, before he ships to retail stores in January.

With American fashion’s propensity for performance athleticism, Bevans has been able to find the sweet spot between that and contemporary fashion.

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Hugo Spring 2019

It’s always big news in Berlin when Hugo Boss decides to stage an event in the German capital during Fashion Week. Yet the decision to return with Hugo after a hiatus of seven years was primarily driven by the city itself. Not only was Berlin’s techno culture and “creative energy and eclectic street style” a key influence for the collection this season, but “with its very unique mix of fashion, art, music, literature and tech, it’s a good eco-system to take a brand like Hugo to the next level,” Boss chief executive officer Mark Langer told WWD prior to the show.
And what better place to do that than in the original home of techno, Motorwork, a gargantuan industrial space that Hugo transformed into a dark and gritty Nineties rave environment. The decade also figured strongly in the men’s and women’s looks on the runway, especially in terms of the prints based on ripped and collaged Rave posters or period album artwork, and the oversized, wide-shouldered, tailored silhouette for both genders derived from a Nineties Boss archive piece. However, that jacket and coat silhouette and baggy tailored pants were customized with DIY flair. Drawstrings were used to create new volumes and

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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Dior Moves Spring Show a Day Ahead

EARLY BIRDS: Christian Dior, typically the first big name to open Paris Fashion Week in recent years, has moved its show ahead one day, to Sept. 24, safeguarding that distinction.
The venue and time have yet to be finalized, but it is likely to be in the early afternoon. The Paris shows go through Oct. 2.
Gucci had previously revealed that it would do a one-off showing in Paris on the evening of Sept. 24. The event is to mark the crescendo of a three-part homage to France conceived by the Italian brand’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, who paraded his resort collection in Arles. Gucci began its ode to France starting with its pre-fall advertising campaign, which harks back to that country circa 1968, when student marches and riots sparked popular rebellions against military and bureaucratic elites.
While foregoing a show in Milan for the season, Gucci is planning a special event to be held at its Hub venue on Sept. 19, the second day of Milan Women’s Fashion Week, scheduled to run Sept. 18 to 24.

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Dundas RTW Spring 2019

“Urban, funky, jungle chic,” said Peter Dundas, who for spring combined dressy pieces with sporty fare, such as cropped hoodies bearing the brand’s black panther logo, or T-shirts.
The mood was full-on Eighties, from the Debbie Harry-inspired fringed biker jackets with zebra lapels to the bold-shouldered minidresses in a mix of animal prints, including a sequin camo mixed with black lace in a panther motif. Not forgetting a whole lotta gold.
The main silhouette was short, sexy and embellished with a couture feel that at times veered into outre territory. The faulty footwear — punky, strappy animal-print sandals inspired by a photo Dundas saw of Siouxsie Sioux — was distracting, with some of the models hobbling along the runway. (Granted, the label is still very young, with limited budgets, but bare feet would have worked better.)
Dévoré velvet, jacquard treatments and flocking were used to create the effect of a second layer on some of the dresses. “Like with the panther: when you look closer, it has spots,” Dundas explained.
There were some fun ideas, like the asymmetric, hot-hued satin dresses accessorized with black lace shorts and cropped asymmetric tops. A minidress in a blend of pink fringe and silver embroidery was also cute.
Sex

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Ludovic de Saint Sernin Men’s Spring 2019

Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s spring collection, the third for his label, was called “Summertime Sadness,” meant to evoke a teen’s melancholy upon leaving a beautiful holiday with an unrequited crush.
The sensual, tight lineup of well-crafted androgynous silhouettes was made of fabrics the designer sourced in Japan. Highlights included a cropped light blue denim jacket with matching low-slung lace-up jeans, a coral-color fluid blouse and trousers, and a black strapless top with languid pants.
De Saint Sernin riffed on his best-selling eyelet briefs for a bralette, and accessorized the line with ceramic charms.
“Most of the collection sells to women,” said the designer, who was a finalist for this year’s LVMH Prize. “I was very niche, this young designer starting out in Paris. And it just put a light on me that was very amazing. I’m super grateful.”
There’s little doubt that the spotlight will keep intensifying.

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Kenzo Men’s Spring 2019

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have turned their performance presentations for Kenzo into something of a tradition. Their coed spring show was no exception, with floral suspensions, a brass band and a laser light show transforming the basement of the Maison de la Mutualité conference center into a magic grotto.
Unfortunately, the clothes they showed didn’t live up to the setting. The brand’s aesthetic, once synonymous with jungle prints and Asian references, has skewed increasingly eclectic of late, with kitschy cool designs that reference the designers’ Californian upbringing.
This lineup was ostensibly informed by summer ceremonies: “gatherings of all sorts and the jubilation of rituals, occasions where New-Romantic hedonists meet British wedding goers and all the in-betweens,” the duo said in their show notes.
Perhaps it was the time slot — the last show on the last day of a marathon men’s fashion week in Paris — but it was hard to pinpoint even a trace of that theme, except for the graphic rose pattern that was a recurrent motif.
Rather, the men’s lineup revolved around a sporty silhouette grounded in acid-bright colors and oversized volumes. A vibrant blue suit with extra-large drawstring pants was paired with a trompe-l’oeil T-shirt depicting an open shirt

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Clot Men’s Spring 2019

Clot pulled the cool crowd – the likes of Don Crawley, Sacai’s Chitose Abe and Francesco Ragazzi from Palm Angels – for its latest Paris presentation in the city’s Marais district.  The design duo installed a series of makeshift stands and food stalls to approximate the atmosphere of the iconic Temple and Market streets in Hong Kong’s Kowloon district.
Edison Chen said he and his partner Kevin Poon are scouting a permanent retail space in Paris. “Our L.A. store is opening in two weeks and then we have Paris, Tokyo, New York and San Francisco,” he said.
The Hong Kong-based streetwear label, which this year is celebrating its 15th anniversary, presented updates on its “bread and butter” – silk pajamas in their own prints. “Obviously, we’re Chinese, so the DNA of us is wearing stuff like this,” said Chen.
Also on display was their new T-shirt collection with reworked Asian icons and graphics including a “mind, body and soul” print; travel bags designed in collaboration with Readymade; and a capsule of pieces in custom-made fabrics including military-inspired jackets in a mix of camo and stripes.
Clot also presented a capsule by Pauly Bonomelli, the Australian artist who rose to fashion fame making custom clothing

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Ann Demeulemeester Men’s Spring 2019

A romantic vibe infused this full-on coed, gender-bending collection filled with loose garments, black flowers and veiled straw hats. It also juxtaposed fabrics, such as silk, lace, linen and leather in breezy silhouettes, and injected hues like pink into Ann Demeulemeester’s traditionally black-and-white color code.
The brand’s creative director Sébastien Munier said he had in mind symbolism, which was birthed in the 19th century when artists pushed back against the industrial revolution.
“Some dreamers, like poets, wanted to express a certain beauty, a certain decadence,” he said, citing in particular the French painter Odilon Redon, whose work was filled with symbolism, and the main character in Joris-Karl Huysmans’ book “À rebours” — a reclusive aesthete and antihero.
It was this extreme idea of beauty that Munier wanted to channel, and it entailed contrasts. Of the spring collection he said: “It is a mix of poor fabric and very rich fabric, and there is a kind of clash in between.” Take for instance the loose white shirt overlayed with a black lace top.
Striped silk, generally used for linings, peaked out from trouser legs or became the main fabric of suiting and shorts, for an inside-out effect.
Genders fused, as a male model sported a knee-length pink

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Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Spring 2019

Boris Bidjan Saberi brushed away the superfluous with his spring collection, training his sights — and design skills — on clothing in its purest forms. With achromatopsia in mind, an unpronounceable term for colorblindness, he worked a palette reduced to tones of grays, blacks and whites. The setting? A raw cement venue. In this pared-down universe, Bidjan Saberi showed what he could do — an awful lot.
Starting with the simplest silhouette, the first look was, in his words, “just a shirt with a back seam, that’s it, just the width of the fabric.” Two long streams of matte, black ribbon — he called it tape — trailed behind. This was what he used to cover seams.
Black coats were outlined by this seam-covering fabric tape, adding a new dimension as well as the optical illusion of something like leather panels. Sleeves were slit open and left to hang over the arms, for a cape-like effect — very cool. Shirts were long, almost becoming dresses, while pants were often short. A long, chunky knit sweater — though less chunky than in springs past — stretched below the knees.
He introduced a new accessory — not a backpack, because it could be worn in

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Walter Van Beirendonck Men’s Spring 2019

Walter Van Beirendonck titled his quirky collection for spring Wild Is the Wind, and wild it was — with skeleton, donkey and bird prints, V signs for peace, clogs and slogans like “Trans Human,” “Hell to the Liars” and “Riot!” Often a man with a message, many of the Belgian designer’s trademarks popped up again this season.
Deconstruction, for instance, abounded, starting with the first look that included a skimpy vest made of lemon-yellow webbing and patches. One featured an imaginary polka-dotted creature with the words “loving the alien” and another read: “It’s only a story/it’s not real/don’t Worry/there IS a happy ENDING.”
The webbing, bringing to mind fetishism, workmen’s garb and streetwear, decorated many garments. And often that was blended with more sartorial elements. Take, for example, the checkered suit featuring orange webbing.
In hallmark Van Beirendonck style, every piece was finely crafted, with standouts including outerwear, such as raincoats, suit jackets and bombers. Sometimes, though, the riot of prints, patterns and colorblocking stole the show.

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Spirit Animals Converge at Valentino Spring 2019 Men’s Show

ANIMAL MAGNETISM: Valentino’s front row was a veritable jungle, crawling with animals in body — and in spirit. Pierpaolo Piccioli asked four famous friends of the house — A$ AP Ferg, Nas, Keith Ape and Syd tha Kyd — to reveal their spirit animal, and he used the beasts as motifs on clothing and accessories in the patterned, logo-ed and color-packed men’s collection.
“My spirit is the black panther — a strong, fast, powerful animal,” said A$ AP Ferg, who certainly stood out in the crowd on Wednesday afternoon. He was wearing a canary yellow suit and bedecked in diamonds from his front teeth down to his wrists and fingers.
“I change them every time I change my outfits,” said the musician of the sparkling crowns on his teeth. “They’re white gold with diamonds. I was going to go for yellow gold, to match my outfit, but then decided against it.”
He said he’s been working with Tiffany & Co. on jewelry, such as pendants and bracelets, and is also getting to work on a new album with a “huge producer, who the world loves,” although he wouldn’t give up the name.
“I’m a lion, I rule the jungle,” said fellow front-row guest Nas, who has

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Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2019: Ones to Watch

LES HOMMES URBAN

A look from Les Hommes Urban’s spring 2019 collection. 
Courtesy Photo.

Les Hommes is expanding into streetwear with the launch of the Les Hommes Urban line, which is available for sale at the brand’s Milan showroom during fashion week.
“The LHU collection was born out of a creative and a practical idea. When we go back to the very early days of Les Hommes, there were a lot of urban influences in the collection, such as graffiti and workwear. It is a creative playground that we always embraced and are very fascinated by,” said Tom Notte, who designs the collection with longtime business partner Bart Vandebosch.
“From the practical point of view, we were pushed to launch LHU by the feedback we were getting from our own stores. In Antwerp, where the first store was founded, we were confronted with a demand from young guys who were very interested in our collection, but because of its positioning, it was out of reach for them. We created a streetwear brand that carries the originality of a designer brand since many pieces are treated and designed with the same care as we do for Les Hommes.”
For their first LHU collection, the designers took inspiration

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Dondup Men’s Spring 2019

Urban trekking was the theme at Dondup, as the design team added a utilitarian twist to men’s citywear clothing, experimenting with materials in a shift from technical performance for a collection that was casual with a touch of sportswear. One example was the checked, boxy field jacket with a glass-like coating, which added brilliancy to the colors. The poplin, deconstructed suit was paired with a hooded shirt in chambray, in a nod to ath-leisure.
Dondup reedited its storied Tyvek material from the Fifties with an iridescent effect and a laminated texture used on a raincoat and a maxi fanny pack. Sweatshirts were treated to have a spongy effect and a leather jacket was in Naplak, a lacquered napa generally used in footwear. Colors ranged from royal blue to lime, as well as earthy tones and black.
Denim was done in classic shapes in pure vintage and black, or with chalk coatings. The material used for denim labels, called Jacron, was employed in garment-dyed accessories, such as the green backpack.

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Prada Men’s Spring 2019

Prada’s been splashing the euros: Earlier this month it opened a whizz-bang new industrial complex in Tuscany — and more are on the way — so the brand has got to sell, sell, sell. The collection that Miuccia Prada showed Sunday evening underlined that: The clothes may have been connected in spirit to the women’s resort, but this collection was more about commerce than anything else.
Prada said she was seeking a “more elegant” style for her man, something youthful yet discreet, adding that she’s fed up with baggy sportswear and streetwear. “The silhouette is very lean, clean and elegant,” she said before the show. “I’ve put a lot of different pieces together — serious ones, fun ones, all sorts — but the goal was to construct, to define a youthful, contemporary elegance. They’re simple pieces, and I wanted them to make sense.”
She took a similar tack with the accessories, which ranged from nylon sacks with drawstring ties to big leather weekenders and smaller shoulder bags. Models held them with an iron grip over one shoulder as if to say, “No one’s snatching this Prada, baby,” as they walked past guests who were perched on big, transparent inflatable cubes, a special reedition of

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Neil Barrett Men’s Spring 2019

In an adventurous, sea and surf-faring mood, Neil Barrett, who has a thing about male uniforms, set out to explore the notion of contemporary masculinity, with the collection’s emblem a Hawaiian-style flower that was never girly.
The designer worked photographic treatments of anemones onto utilitarian macs, T-shirts and sweatshirts, placing them at the breast and shoulder in place of military emblems and medals.
Some of the prints had a strong Pop Art feel, others came graphically sliced, with shadowy black prints of the flowers staining a range of looks. But mainly it added a surf vibe, opening the gates for a strong water-sport theme.
Barrett in this highly wearable collection mixed his usual color palette of sand, beige, navy, gray and black with bright colors associated with surfwear.
His signature Nineties aesthetic was intact, folding in scuba underlayers and jackets inspired by the hi-tech dry suits worn by deep sea divers. The cut of the trenches, with their dropped shoulders and rounded shapes, were even based on their lines.
The designer sprinkled in sure-sell cargo pants cut like joggers, and cool dressier looks, like a gray tux with a Nineties fit.
Moving between urban and sportswear moods, the outerwear was ever strong and plentiful, with the

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Blindness Men’s Spring 2019

In a number of ways, the story told in Blindness’ spring collection was of the age-old girl-meets-boy variety.
Exploring the theme of first love, designers Kyu Shin and Ji Park siphoned the maelstrom of emotions triggered by falling in love for the first time into a romantic collection that cleverly riffed on its theme and took the nonbinary trend to new levels of sophistication and drama.
They gracefully intermingled masculine and feminine codes, borrowing details from ultra-manly military dress and elevating them with archly feminine touches. Army great coats were reincarnated in organza, with OTT frills appliquéd across the yoke and hem; a plaid-backed trench came with a scarf of organza ruffles; a frilled Inverness cape (see Sherlock Holmes) had a pretty floral-print capelet and lining, and tough denim sailor pants were worn with a soft blue tie-neck silk shirt.
This being a brand strong on gender fluidity, there were sheer black gowns, a full-length tartan dress, pie crust collars tied around necks, sheer hunting vests, leg of mutton sleeves on the suiting, and studded leather corsetry worn over elaborately cut striped shirts and frilly blouses. In all,
The charming, pearl-embellished eye masks worn by some models were a clever wink at their brand’s

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A-Cold-Wall Men’s Spring 2019

Samuel Ross’ brand A-Cold-Wall is continually seeking to expand the fashion vernacular by playing with new proportions and alternative ideas of beauty. Ross’ latest collection was presented as an immersive performance at the Old Truman Brewery that was conceptual — but not necessarily accessible.
Guests were advised to put on protective goggles, masks and earplugs monogrammed with the brand’s acronym that were handed out at the door. Wind turbines and haze created a doomed, dystopian atmosphere, and the show began with a group of actors wearing hooded smocks and chalk-painted skin storming down the runway. Models showcasing the collection followed.
Utilitarian sportswear has been the foundation of the brand and this season, Ross purged it of its traditional aesthetic. He took the basis of sportswear, deconstructed it and morphed each piece into new silhouettes. Included were cropped outerwear in thick layers of transparent PVC paired with pouches that wrapped across the bodies. Puffy vests were deconstructed and held together by seatbelt webbing and clip closures. He did the same with down jackets, which he dissected and laced back together with metallic silver leather with asymmetric sleeves, and cargo shorts and pants featured oversized pockets that distorted the silhouette.
“It’s really art,” Ross said

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Matthew Miller Men’s Spring 2019

When K-Swiss, the California-based footwear brand, approached Matthew Miller wanting to work on a collaboration, he had one condition: The resulting ready-to-wear had to be made using the technology he’d recently discovered that could turn garments destined for the landfill into new fabric.
“I discovered this (recycling) tech, but as a small designer, I wasn’t big enough to utilize it because it’s hydro-powered and we had to do a certain amount of (volume) to make it environmentally viable,” said Miller. Around the same time, he came upon a cache of about 10,000 band T-shirts that were destined for the landfill.
They were later funneled into the K-Swiss collaboration, a streetwear collection of mostly tracksuits and Ts that appeared on the catwalk along with the designer’s signature line.
For the main collection, Miller mined his background as a frequent flier at some of Britain’s most renowned late-Nineties clubs. “I wanted it to feel like an underground movement, almost like what a club scene would have been like 20 years ago, where you get all these different characters. But they’re all into one thing — the music or the scene,” he said.
Those ideas translated into a confident collection that felt more upbeat than previous seasons, with pops of neon or

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Simon Miller RTW Spring 2019

For American sportswear label Simon Miller, fewer pastimes are as American as race car driving. Designers Chelsea Hansford and Daniel Corrigan cited iconic late Sixties, early Seventies drag racers Steve McQueen, “Jungle” Jim Liberman and his backing partner, “Jungle Pam,” for inspiration into spring. “The looks she would wear to the tracks were the craziest,” Corrigan noted at a preview. “That’s the mood of the collection.”
They even shot the look book along a 1953 raceway, telling the story of driving through the mountains while flowers are blooming and ice is melting.
The theme led to neon jackets in crackled leather that referenced torn asphalt, techy sport separates, poppy floral prints and a big push on denim that included a new “013” high-rise slim crop fit. The brand is denim at heart, and ever since Hansford joined Corrigan in Los Angeles last year, it’s been given newfound attention. It’s also partly why the brand has switched to a June spring model; they’ll be able to show resort and spring together while traveling to New York less.
A colorful tire track print found on denim twinsets pulled together the season’s palette of sunny yellow, orange, red and blue. A sense of playfulness underscored saturated

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Kaia Gerber Combines Two Denim Trends for the Ultimate Spring Jacket

ESC: Dare to Wear, Kaia GerberKaia Gerber just put a cool, new twist on an old classic: the denim jacket.
In honor of the Levi’s x Karla 501 Day Celebration, the 145th birthday celebration for the brand’s…

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Kaia Gerber Combines Two Denim Trends for the Ultimate Spring Jacket

ESC: Dare to Wear, Kaia GerberKaia Gerber just put a cool, new twist on an old classic: the denim jacket.
In honor of the Levi’s x Karla 501 Day Celebration, the 145th birthday celebration for the brand’s…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

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Books of The Times: With ‘Spring,’ Karl Ove Knausgaard’s Latest Project Comes Into Focus

In the third of four books addressed to his youngest daughter, Knausgaard returns to form, and to ruthlessness, writing to fight a familial legacy of alienation from the world.
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Spring Parts Curtain on American Ballet Theatre

Spring, the downtown creative hub that offers collaborative workspaces and a business club, prides itself on introducing members to new experiences. That includes everything from Danish star chef René Redzepi’s Noma pop-up restaurant and Caviar Kaspia’s temporary residency, to Tribeca Film Festival’s virtual arcade of VR and augmented-reality exhibits and experiences.
In that spirit of discovery, Spring on Friday said it has partnered with American Ballet Theatre to host a series of events with the goal of inspiring new audiences and cultivating the next generation of ballet enthusiasts and supporters.

Starting this month, Spring Place will lift the curtain on the ballet to reveal the spirit and practice of American Ballet Theatre to its members and the downtown community. Spring members will have access to the ballet company, which is working to preserve and extend its classical repertoire. American Ballet Theatre artistic director Kevin McKenzie said dancers are eager to “demystify the art form at events for the Spring community of art enthusiasts.”

Programming starting in May will include a panel discussion about peak performance in artists and athletes featuring McKenzie, HBO Sports executive vice president Peter Nelson, and sports psychology consultant and former NFL director of education and player engagement Dr. Lauren Loberg. There

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Iceberg to Show Men’s Spring Collection in London

LONDON BOUND:  Iceberg goes to the U.K.
The Italian contemporary brand, controlled by manufacturing company Gilmar, is showing its men’s spring 2019 collection during London Collections: Men.
The runway show will take place on June 8 in a still undisclosed location.
Along with unveiling its latest men’s effort, creative director James Long will also showcase a selection of looks from Iceberg women’s pre-fall lineup.
Long joined the Iceberg men’s division in November 2015 and then, in August 2016, he was tapped by the brand to succeed Arthur Arbesser at the helm of the women’s line.
Last February, Iceberg presented its women’s fall collection, along with a few looks from the men’s range, with a runway show in the streets of Milan.

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SportChek – Spring Jackets up to 40% Off at SportChek! Restrictions may apply. Offer ends 04/17/2018. Shop now!

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10 Of The Best Beauty Buys From Sephora’s VIB Spring Sale

Makeup and skincare worth your time and money.
Style and Beauty – Fashion News, Celebrity Style and Fashion Trends
FASHION NEWS UPDATE-Visit Shoe Deals Online today for the hottest deals online for shoes!

Olivia Munn Celebrates Nature With an Epic Spring Outfit

ESC: Dare to Wear, Olivia MunnOlivia Munn is a natural goddess in her floral ensemble.
Earlier this week, the star attended a party honoring Eva Longoria’s Walk of Fame star, wearing a sheer floral dress, a green…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

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Meghan Markle Brings a Splash of Spring With New Striped Look

Meghan MarkleIf clothes could talk, Meghan Markle’s latest outfit would shout: “Spring has sprung!”
The soon-to-be bride stepped out alongside her royal beau Prince Harry for a joint…

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Yes Style – Time for Spring Shopping! Extra 10% OFF at YesStyle!

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Yes Style – Time for Spring Shopping! Extra 10% OFF at YesStyle!

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Promise Project to Hold Spring Fund-raiser on May 1

CHANGING LIVES: Promise Project will host its 11th annual Beautiful Promise cocktail party on May 1, co-chaired by Cindy Weber Cleary, Lori Buchbinder and Terry Darland. The event takes place at the Metropolitan Pavilion, 123 West 18th Street, in New York from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m.
The evening will once again feature ABC’s Bill Ritter as emcee.
Guests will have the opportunity to bid on silent auction items such as accessories and jewelry from Versace, Valentino, Jennifer Meyer, Ileana Makri, Alexis Bittar and Chanel, as well as experiences such as “Daily Show” tickets.
One-of-a-kind items and experiences will also be available for bidding on Charity Buzz when the auction goes live on April 24, such as a private tour of MoMA and Yankees tickets, as well as a lunch with Nicole Miller and tickets to a “Shark Tank” taping.
Dana Buchman, board chair, explained that since the charity started, they’ve transformed the lives of more than 1,200 children and their families thanks to the generosity of their sponsors, board and benefit committee.
Promise Project, in collaboration with Columbia University Medical Center and New York Presbyterian Hospital, is a comprehensive program committed to helping impoverished children living with learning disabilities get the support they need to succeed.
 

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Yes Style – Time for Spring Shopping! Extra 10% OFF at YesStyle!

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Canvas On Demand – HELLO SPRING! Shop now and save 75% off PGW & 40% site wide– Code: HelloSpringAFF

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Your Spring Wardrobe Staple, Based on Your April Horoscope

ESC: April Horoscopes, Olivia Munn, CancerThe month of April is full of unexpected blessings.
“You need to take this month moment by moment, not even day by day,” spiritual advisor Lisa Greenfield told E! News. “If…

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Jennifer Garner and Kids Join Ben Affleck in Hawaii Over Spring Break

Ben Affleck, Jennifer Garner Jennifer Garner and her kids are spending Spring Break and Easter in Hawaii with Ben Affleck.
Since their 2015 split, the actors have made it a priority to co-parent the kids and have…

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Your Spring Wardrobe Staple, Based on Your April Horoscope

ESC: April Horoscopes, Olivia Munn, CancerThe month of April is full of unexpected blessings.
“You need to take this month moment by moment, not even day by day,” spiritual advisor Lisa Greenfield told E! News. “If…

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MaddaFella.com – Spring Savings Sale! Save 20% On Any Purchase & Get Free Shipping On All Orders At MaddaFella.com! Use Code: SPRING20! Vintage-inspired. Modern Fit- The perfect blend of casual & classy. Dream, Discover, Explore! Click Here!

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MaddaFella.com – Spring Savings Sale! Save 20% On Any Purchase & Get Free Shipping On All Orders At MaddaFella.com! Use Code: SPRING20! Vintage-inspired. Modern Fit- The perfect blend of casual & classy. Dream, Discover, Explore! Click Here!

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Spring games guide 2018: 12 reasons to stay indoors this season

Spring games guide 2018: 12 reasons to stay indoors this seasonSpring is a time of rebirth, and for the games industry, a great time to launch a huge product or three. ‘God of War’ is shaping up to be an early contender for Game of the Year. Now a father, Kratos must mentor his young son and manage his legendary temper as the two explore a strange Scandinavian world.



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Your Ultimate Spring Break Packing List

Branded: Target Spring BreakYou look forward to Spring Break every year because, let’s face it, it’s the time of your life.
Maybe you’re jetting off to Miami Beach with a handful of your best babes, or…

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Your Ultimate Spring Break Packing List

Branded: Target Spring BreakYou look forward to Spring Break every year because, let’s face it, it’s the time of your life.
Maybe you’re jetting off to Miami Beach with a handful of your best babes, or…

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Peace Love World, LLC – SPRING SAVINGS SALE! SAVE 25% Off Site Wide & Free Shipping On Orders Over $100 At PeaceLoveWorld.com! Use Code: SPRINGY At Checkout! Click Here!

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4 Spring Pasta Recipes: Make a Meal of the Season’s Freshest Produce

Vibrant green vegetables are starting their stride down the seasonal runway; tossed with a tangle of pasta, they stretch further to make affordable, sumptuous meals. These four fresh recipes from chefs around the country will easily feed a crowd.
WSJ.com: Lifestyle

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9 Kids’ Choice Awards Style Trends You’ll Be Seeing All Spring

ESC: Kristen Bell, Nickelodeon Kids Choice Awards 2018Take notes!
The 2018 Kids’ Choice Awards is not the fashion event that is the Oscars or Met Gala, but there are style lessons to be learned. The casual red carpet offers outfit…

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9 Kids’ Choice Awards Style Trends You’ll Be Seeing All Spring

ESC: Kristen Bell, Nickelodeon Kids Choice Awards 2018Take notes!
The 2018 Kids’ Choice Awards is not the fashion event that is the Oscars or Met Gala, but there are style lessons to be learned. The casual red carpet offers outfit…

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Saturday Savings: Olivia Culpo’s H&M Top Is $15 and Perfect for Spring!

ESC: Olivia Culpo, Saturday SavingsA white top and jeans have never looked so good.
Olivia Culpo continues to prove that mastering basics is the first step to an incredible wardrobe. On a casual day, the style star wore a…

E! Online (US) – lifestyle

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