Adidas Exec Discusses Sustainability, Circularity and Working With the Competition

Producing nearly 900 million products a year, Adidas is understandably exploring new ways to minimize waste and recycle products.
At the Design Talks NYC + Impact Summit earlier this week, James Carnes, vice president of global brand strategy for Adidas, spoke at length about Futurecraft.Loop, the brand’s first 100 percent recyclable performance running shoe, as a sign of things to come. Four years have passed since Adidas first worked with Parley for the Oceans to create an upper made entirely of yarns and filaments reclaimed and recycled from marine plastic waste and illegal deep-sea gillnets.
Knowing how thirsty his own two iPad wielding children are for information even though they haven’t reached the age of 10, Carnes spoke about the importance of catering to highly engaged and informed consumers. He also mentioned how Adidas is investing in start-ups such at Stuffstr, alluding to its new sports accelerator program “Platform A” at Station F in Paris where Adidas supports 13 start-ups.
Asked about collaborating with other apparel and footwear companies, he pointed to the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, but noted that the hard part is making progress. Some of that stems from the number of different circumstances facing companies and where they produce product. “From

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Dazed Media Unveils Sustainability Platform, A Future World

OUR PLANET: Dazed Media is setting its sights on sustainability with a dedicated platform, A Future World, in partnership with the European Climate Foundation just in time for the Copenhagen Fashion Summit. The new platform, A Future World, will focus on science, technology and pop culture and feature interviews, films and discussions on sustainability.
“Climate change is finally a topic of conversation that’s at the top of our news feeds and around dinner tables, but most crucially, on our streets. This is a movement that has been driven by youth, a generation determined to pass on the planet to the children they haven’t yet had,” said Thomas Gorton, digital editor of Dazed Media.
The official platform will launch later this year but its first installment, which launched today, features an interview with Greta Thunberg, a teenage climate activist and Nobel Peace prize nominee, speaking about school strikes and protesting to combat climate change.
In the interview, Thunberg talks about her biggest environmental concerns. “Once we pass a certain point, there is no going back. We might have already passed that point and once we do, we set off an irreversible chain reaction which triggers events beyond human control. That’s very scary because we can’t

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Men’s Brands Jump Into Sustainability Efforts

Like many things in men’s wear, it often takes a bit longer for a trend to take hold than it does in women’s wear. Sustainability has been no exception. But now, most men’s brands and retailers are all in.
While some men’s designers, such as Christopher Raeburn, were early adopters, others are just now jumping on board. According to Cara Smyth, vice president of Glasgow Caledonian New York College and founder of the Fair Fashion Center sustainability program, those in the outdoor industry were among the first to embrace the movement due to their ties to nature. But the movement has since spread to a variety of men’s wear brands.
“Many men’s brands are interested in sustainability as it provides operating efficiencies that reduce impacts and reflect the values of the brand to both consumers and even investors where applicable,” she said.
So whether it’s PVH’s goal to generate zero waste, or Perry Ellis’ new solar panel installation project at its distribution center in Seneca, S.C., companies big and small have gotten on board.
Here is a closer look at some of the brands leading the way in men’s wear.
Christopher Raeburn
Just call him the King of Upcycling. The U.K.-based designer has been a champion

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Levi’s VP of Global Innovation Talks Sustainability, Upsides of Hemp

LIVING THE BRAND: Levi’s vice president of global innovation Paul Dillinger spoke quickly and passionately about how the fashion industry can take steps to become more sustainable, closing out the two-day Sustainable Business and Design Conference on Thursday night at F.I.T.
Wearing a white cottonized hemp jacket from the Levi’s Wellthread x Outerknown spring/summer collection, he told attendees that by touching it they would understand the possibilities of making the fabric into something lovely and soft (and not scratchy). The company’s first foray into the use of a new form of “cottonized hemp” denim — hemp that’s been altered to feel just like cotton, Dillinger’s embroidered trucker jacket has removable metal hardware for recyclability.
He also highlighted the company’s commitment to innovation and sustainability. Dillinger stressed the need to embrace circular industrial systems to reduce pollution rather than because “you want an excuse to grow.” Environmental issues such as deforestation and desertification are offshoots of overproduction. Dillinger suggested fashion companies and designers adopt the decluttering mantra from Marie Kondo, asking themselves pre-production if the item will bring people joy.
Dillinger spoke of how the fast-fashion industry has an incredible appetite “that is on steroids at this point.” In addition, the media reach of

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U.N. Officials, Executives Discuss How to Get Board Members and Consumers Interested in Sustainability

United Nations officials and environmentally minded executives discussed some of the sustainability challenges in the CG&R industry Thursday afternoon at the United Nations.
In welcoming guests to the Baker McKenzie program, the U.N. Global Impact’s chief executive officer and executive director Lise Kingo spoke of the need for greater involvement. Founded nearly 20 years ago by former U.N. Secretary General Kofi Annan, the U.N. Global Compact works in conjunction with the private sector to give globalization a human face, Kingo said.
“Personally, this vision has never been more relevant than it is today. We are living in a world where we need a clear lighthouse that we can all steer towards that has the purpose of creating a world that leaves no one behind,” she said. “We believe approaching the 17 goals starts with embedding the 10 principles [which are rooted in human rights, labor, environment and anti-corruption] in the way that any business is run. It is the best guarantee for not being accused of doing a little greenwashing as opposed to taking one or two of the goals and putting them into a company’s annual report.”
The U.N. Global Compact has strengthened to more than 10,000 companies from 40, when it

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Economic Incentives Key to Solving U.K. Fashion Industry’s Sustainability Issue, Says Parliament

LONDON — Sustainability campaigners have applauded a new report by the U.K.’s Environmental Audit Committee that highlights the culture of throwaway fashion and the unfavorable working conditions in the country’s apparel factories.
“The report is unequivocal in its message: ‘The fashion industry’s current business model is clearly unsustainable,’” said Prof. Dilys Williams, director at the London College of Fashion’s Centre for Sustainable Fashion. “Its call for action is one that involves us all, as designers, makers, sellers, buyers, wearers, investors, educators, communicators and legislators.”
Williams added that education, and ongoing collaboration, between tutors, students, researchers and NGOs, can be a big driver of change.
Frances Corner, head of London College of Fashion, focused on the report’s suggestion that schools teach younger students how to repair clothes. She said some of the most vital steps in addressing fashion’s sustainability issue is putting an end to “throwaway” fashion.
“I hope this report marks a turning point — as has been identified by Mary Creagh [the member of Parliament who spearheaded the investigation] that a voluntary approach to sustainability has not worked. It’s now time for the U.K. fashion industry to lead by example,” said Corner.
The report is the result of an investigation that took place throughout

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CFDA Introduces Sustainability Initiatives to Help Guide Designers Looking for Cleaner Ways to Work

With “where to begin” being a common conundrum for many brands considering sustainability, the CFDA has launched its Sustainability Initiatives to help designers do their part to clean up the fashion industry.
In line with the United Nations’ call for the fashion industry to act on its global mandate on sustainability, the CFDA has rolled out a four-part strategy. Many designers’ questions may be answered by referencing the first edition of the CFDA Guide to Sustainable Strategies, the Sustainable Strategies Toolkit, the CFDA Materials Index or the CFDA Sustainability Directory.
While Eileen Fisher, Stella McCartney and other designers have been committed to trying to clean up the industry’s excessive waste for a while, many less established brands are examining sustainability for the first time. The United Nations Alliance on Sustainable Fashion will stage its launch event March 14, during a media event of the 4th U.N. Environment Assembly in Nairobi, Kenya. Just as consumers have learned about the environmental farm-to-table choices, sustainability supporters are hopeful that greater awareness about the need for sustainable fashion will lead to changing the consumption and production habits.
Konstantin Grcic recently joined forces with the Aeance to create a sustainable capsule collection. Stella McCartney has been leading the

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Jussara Lee Taking Her Message of Sustainability to a Multisensory Performance in New York

SECONDHAND NEWS: Committed to sustainability as an individual, designer and business owner, Jussara Lee used that ideology as a rookie costume designer for “Inside the Wild Heart.”
Based on the writings of one of Brazil’s most famous writers, Clarice Lispector, the immersive theatrical experience was conceived by Andressa Furletti and Debora Balardini and directed by Linda Wise. The show bows Thursday in New York. Lee was initially approached by the Brazilian theater company Group.BR about helping to fund the production. She offered to pitch in with the cast’s attire instead.
Lee described Lispector’s work as “amazing,” but the project’s upcycling is what really sold her. Working with a low budget meant “that it was all about secondhand and vintage shopping. I was very interested in that and told them, ‘We’ll make adjustments. We’ll make things fit. That’s what we do best,’” said Lee, adding that she liked the idea of reusing “things that had already been extracted and polluted. There is so much clean-up to do and so much stuff in this world.””
In addition, the project forced her to switch up her usual routine and do some thrifting at Beacon’s Closet in Brooklyn and “all the other underlings.” It was also an

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FIT Panelists Suggest Fighting Fast Fashion in the Name of Sustainability

The impact of fast fashion on sustainability was one of the takeaways Thursday morning at the Fashion Institute of Technology.
The NPD Group’s chief industry adviser Marshall Cohen led the discussion about how companies and consumers can be more environmentally minded in their purchases and practices. Other participants included Taryn Hipwell, founder of Beyond the Label and author of “How to Shop for Shi(f)t”; Vanessa Urenda, cofounder of LAMINI; Valérie Martin, vice president of global communications and culture at the Aldo Group, and Sabra Krock creative director and co-owner of Everything but Water.
Panelists agreed that brands and shoppers need to be more conscientious about the root source of the products they buy and produce. Patagonia, Ben & Jerry’s, Reformation, Eileen Fisher, Tradesy, The Real Real, Groceries Apparel and Outerknown were among the sustainable-conscious labels they cited as helping to lead the charge. Hipwell predicted that in the next five years consumers, especially younger ones, will research the heritage of their apparel purchases as readily as they book travel online or track FedEx shipments. To that end, Sourcemap, a company that specializes in supply chain mapping, enables companies to trace products to the source. Noting that sustainable efforts can go beyond in-store and

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Global Fashion Agenda and IFM Join Forces to Advance Sustainability in Fashion

PARIS — Denmark and France are aligning their efforts on the sustainability in fashion front.
Copenhagen-based Global Fashion Agenda and Paris fashion school, Institut Français de la Mode, or the IFM, on Wednesday signed a memorandum outlining their commitment to establishing more partnership agreements to accelerate initiatives in the field. 
The signing of a Memorandum of Understanding took place at the opening of the Economic Forum, with as its backdrop French President Emmanuel Macron’s state visit to Denmark. Present at the event were French Finance Minister Bruno Le Maire; Dominique Jacomet, dean of the IFM; and Pascal Morand, executive president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.
“Confronting those global challenges requires a united effort,” said Eva Kruse, chief executive officer of Global Fashion Agenda, a leadership forum on fashion sustainability which organizes the annual Copenhagen Fashion Summit as well as the yearly industry report, Pulse of the Fashion Industry. “The French fashion industry is one of the world’s most powerful and influential, which is why we already work closely with sustainability pioneer and leading French luxury group Kering, but signing this MoU is vital to accomplishing broader changes in French fashion companies and to creating concrete initiatives to educate and guide industry

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Sustainability, Identity, Social Change Key Themes in Parsons Graduation Collections

More than 300 students from Parsons School of Design’s AAS Fashion Design and Fashion Marketing and BFA Fashion Design programs are exhibiting their graduation collections during a three-day festival that runs May 16 through May 18. For the first time, the exhibition is open to the public.
Spread over three floors of The New School’s University Center, the collections are curated by topical themes, such as Materiality, having to do with textile innovation, Social Justice, Systems and Society, as well as designs having to do with sleep, and a whole lot of gender and race identity. There was a lot to take in, with many of the garments on display falling under deconstructed, gender-fluid and fantasy-driven.
In terms of textile innovation and sustainability, one standout collection was by Gal Yakobovitch, who was inspired by her father who used to make surfboards in the Seventies. She sought to find biodegradable replacements for the classic materials used to make wet suits and such, developing her own tapioca bioplastic, gelatin glass and gelatin foam from ingredients that can mostly be found in a bodega and making her materials in her own kitchen. “This one is remeltable and recastable,” she said, holding up a rubbery material

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Circular Fashion Games Reward Sustainability, Circular Economy Ideas

The first edition of the Circular Fashion Games wrapped up last month in the Netherlands, but international expansion is already planned.
A field of 76 contenders from an array of countries was whittled to three, with this year’s top prize going to Lenzing for an online tool that will provide free access to information about circular use of the company’s fibers in apparel design. Design is evaluated and scored based on a recyclability scale to determine whether a garment qualifies for the Lenzing Take-Back program. The concept’s creators — Sabine Silaraja, Jasper Roosendaal, Melissa Ortuno de León and Marijn Pronker — will now be part of an accelerator program to build a platform to allow users to make the right design choices.
Made possible through the lead sponsor C&A Foundation, and the business developer Veerle Luiting, the Circular Fashion Games are designed to encourage circular design thinking and circular business modeling. Not restricted to fashion students and designers, the event welcomes creatives from different disciplines. The multidisciplinary teams competed in boot camps at the SingularityU Netherlands in Eindhoven and another one organized by Fashion for Good and Impact Hub Amsterdam.
Start Up Mix chief executive officer Johnny Kerkhof, who is helping to guide the

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Sustainability and Technology Front and Center at Paris Fabric Fairs

PARIS — Sustainability and technology remained the headline topics at the recent editions of the Première Vision Paris, Texworld Paris and sister trade shows Apparel Sourcing and Avantex here.
Visitor numbers were largely flat, coming off a high base following a run of strong editions, with a dip in Asian visitors attributed to the Lunar New Year. PV Paris attributed a 5 percent dip in American visitors to current challenges related to the transformation of the retail landscape.
A number of mills at Texworld had upped their sustainability criteria, with 71 exhibitors participating in the show’s Sustainable Sourcing itinerary. “Traceability is becoming the biggest issue in the U.S. and European markets,” said Lenzing senior vice president for Europe and the Americas Marco Schlimpert. The company showcased its Ecovero eco-responsible viscose fiber, which launched last May and is seeing brisk demand, as well as its Refibra technology, which involves upcycling cotton scraps, for example from garment production, in addition to wood pulp to produce new virgin Tencel Lyocell fibers using closed loop production. Within the re-branded Texworld Denim section, meanwhile, Pakistan-based Rajby Industries, whose biggest clients include H&M, Inditex and Mango, debuted new sustainable cottons that use up to 50 percent less water

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Sustainability Is Important — but Not at All Costs

NEW YORK — The apparel industry and its customers are proponents of sustainability — but only if it’s economically feasible.
That was a key takeaway from a survey conducted by Cotton Incorporated and presented at a half-day seminar here Tuesday titled “Everything You’ve Heard About Cotton Is Wrong.”
Melissa Bastos, director of market research for Cotton Incorporated, said although the concept is appealing, sustainability is “not a primary purchase-driver for consumers.” Instead, they primarily seek a good fit, comfort and a price they consider reasonable, good quality, durability and the right style. The secondary reasons for purchasing are color, softness, performance features and laundering instructions. Further down on the list are country of origin, sustainability and brand name, she said.
And while all generations care about the environmental impact of their purchases — not just the socially conscious Millennials — this still does not drive them to the cash register. In fact, some 33 to 40 percent of consumers today expect manufacturers to produce goods that are environmentally friendly and blame the vendor if those rules are broken.
So what is the apparel industry doing to comply with these requirements?
Bastos said Cotton Incorporated surveyed 100 companies, a mix of manufacturers and retailers, and 55 percent said they

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Selfridges Ready to Make Music, Ramp Up Sustainability

LONDON — Never one to gather moss, Selfridges is forging ahead with a host of initiatives in the second half, ramping up its efforts on the environmental front, embracing club and music culture and expanding the accessories hall.
On Wednesday, Linda Hewson, the store’s creative director, said Selfridges’ storewide mantra is “buying better, inspiring change” as she laid out some punchy plans on the environmental front.
By 2020, Selfridges plans to reduce its carbon footprint by 50 percent, while by 2021 the store’s top 30 brands will need to have developed clear sustainability agendas. Hewson said the store plans to push the brands, if need be.
With the aim of helping its customers “buy better,” Selfridges also plans to start labeling some of its products, starting with cotton, denim and British brands, revealing their provenance and the brands’ commitment to supply chain transparency and the environment.
The store will also begin carrying the Positive Luxury butterfly mark on the site, which allows customers browsing Selfridges.com to read about the store’s efforts to become more sustainable.
In the fall, Selfridges will be holding a storewide campaign called Music Matters, with a series of events taking place in-store from a variety of musicians, including Skepta and A$ AP Rocky.
The store

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Prada Group Hosts First Conference on Sustainability and Innovation

MILAN — The Prada Group held its first conference on sustainability, called “Shaping a Creative Future,” in partnership with Yale School of Management and Politecnico di Milano School of Management.
The two-day event was held at Fondazione Prada on the first day on Monday, and at the brand’s headquarters in Milan, where the show is held, the second day.
Focusing on the relation between sustainability and innovation, the conference was made up of conversations, debates and discussions with leading international academic, creative and business figures, moderated by the two universities.
The first day saw representatives from leading businesses meet with Yale School of Management and Politecnico di Milano School of Management professors and alumni for discussions on sustainability and innovation.
The discussions over the two days hinged on brand heritage and market value; design for sustainability through innovation and tradition; sustainability and value creation, and driving creative excellence.
“One of the universal fundamental virtues is creativity,” said Prada chairman Carlo Mazzi. “Positive creativity requires equality and liberty, and we need courage and a strong mind. Where creativity is focused on the good and beauty [there] is also sustainability.”
The first speech centered on brand heritage and market value and Yale Professor Ravi Dhar explained how “products are more

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Advances in Practical Applications of Agents, Multi-Agent Systems, and Sustainability: The PAAMS Collection

Advances in Practical Applications of Agents, Multi-Agent Systems, and Sustainability: The PAAMS Collection


This book constitutes the refereed proceedings of the 13th International Conference on Practical Applications of Agents and Multi-Agent Systems, PAAMS 2015, held in Salamanca, Spain, in June 2015. The 10 revised full papers and 9 short papers were carefully reviewed and selected from 48 submissions are presented together with 17 demonstrations. The articles report on the application and validation of agent-based models, methods and technologies in a number of key application areas, including: agents and the energy grid, agents and the traffic grid, affective computing and agent development, ambient and contextual agents, social simulation and social networks and other agent-based applications.

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Agricultural Sustainability

Agricultural Sustainability


Take a balanced look at ways to ensure food security and to work to erase hunger around the world Agriculture is the most aggressively managed ecosystem. Agricultural Sustainability: Principles, Processes, and Prospects provides a comprehensive examination of all facets of agricultural sustainability, beginning with the history of the evolution of the concept to the present. Challenges to sustainability are clearly presented along with practical strategies to counter prospective problems. This vital resource considers options for the future, as well as reviewing past approaches for their value in today’s world. When one considers that the alternative to agricultural sustainability is the collapse of the world’s food systems, it is understood that compromise is impossible. Agricultural Sustainability takes a holistic approach to the issues that are involved in making agriculture ecologically sound, economically viable, and socially responsible around the world. The book is divided into three parts. Part One clarifies the concept of agricultural sustainability, bringing a rational and balanced view of the core elements. Part Two discusses ways to promote sustainability in the world, including practical scientific and technological processes for improving yields while ensuring food security for future generations. Part Three peers into future decades, reviewing the vision documents of international agencies, their perceptions and expectations for the years ahead, and present dysfunctional aspects in the current food system. The book is extensively referenced and includes figures and charts to clearly explain data. The book examines: the historic evolution of the concept of agricultural sustainability the combined effects of a multiplicity of agricultural systems concepts for validating the sustainability of a production system the role of natural capital in production the role of science and technology in sustainable use managing land, water, biodiversity, .

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